Question deleted - Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra

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Dead or blocked links on my end.
Upload a jpeg or two.

blackhawk said:
Dead or blocked links on my end.
Upload a jpeg or two.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, just updated the thread. Can you check again please ?

That's probably not a good example; the high light level on the fridge is skewing the exposure.
Try turning HDR on/off. Try a different exposure option.
There's some vignetting in the corners of both cams, this is typical of all lens.
Try a white picket fence to check for chromatic distortions.
It may be your display as well that's skewing the color rendering index if you're viewing it on the phone. On my N10+* both look similar as far as colors. The cam may not have enough light or the right color temperature of light to grab a good sample. Using a good color calibrated display and a good app like Canon DPP on the PC is the best way to get an accurate assessment. This can get very involved...
You will drive yourself nuts doing this... been there, done that with a malfunctioning pro cam.
If you're dissatisfied, return it for a cash refund.
*the Note 10+'s color rendering index and white point are near perfect. All the variable rate displays suffer from less precise color/gamma and white point calibration. All variable refresh rate displays are extremely hard to factory calibrate. This is a major reason I didn't get the N20U. More than likely this continues to be an issue with all variable refresh rate displays.

blackhawk said:
That's probably not a good example; the high light level on the fridge is skewing the exposure.
Try turning HDR on/off. Try a different exposure option.
There's some vignetting in the corners of both cams, this is typical of all lens.
Try a white picket fence to check for chromatic distortions.
It may be your display as well that's skewing the color rendering index if you're viewing it on the phone. On my N10+* both look similar as far as colors. The cam may not have enough light or the right color temperature of light to grab a good sample. Using a good color calibrated display and a good app like Canon DPP on the PC is the best way to get an accurate assessment. This can get very involved...
You will drive yourself nuts doing this... been there, done that with a malfunctioning pro cam.
If you're dissatisfied, return it for a cash refund.
*the Note 10+'s color rendering index and white point are near perfect. All the variable rate displays suffer from less precise color/gamma and white point calibration. All variable refresh rate displays are extremely hard to factory calibrate. This is a major reason I didn't get the N20U. More than likely this continues to be an issue with all variable refresh rate displays.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The camera doesn't have an option to turn off or on HDR, I think newer models don't have it. You can only turn off scene optimizer and that didn't change anything. I'm actually ok with the photos but if you look at the flowers on curtain at the top on the first pic they are almost brown/dark where they should be colorful/pink and that's correct on S20 FE's photo. It's not only this pic, when I take a picture of a tree for example the bole of tree is always too dark

This câmera is Sh**t on exynos….Upgraded to S22 ultra from a Oppo X3 FIND PRO…and…my god…oppo is so good on câmera…
s22 ultra has a lot of noIse indoors…
no HDR toogle ?? Wtf Samsung!

wholelottared said:
The camera doesn't have an option to turn off or on HDR, I think newer models don't have it. You can only turn off scene optimizer and that didn't change anything. I'm actually ok with the photos but if you look at the flowers on curtain at the top on the first pic they are almost brown/dark where they should be colorful/pink and that's correct on S20 FE's photo. It's not only this pic, when I take a picture of a tree for example the bole of tree is always too dark
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't see it. Color calibration is very good on this display but it's not a color calibrated display which is what you need. Even slight deviations in calibration can skew the colors.
Areas of abnormal darkness have more to do with metering. Samsung's metering algorithms might be screwed up or it could be hardware.
If it's vignette on the corners it's 100% the lense.
Compare the different cams as they use different lens and sensors.
It's a long tedious exercise you're getting into...
No use pulling hair when you can cut it; personally for many other reasons this isn't my flagship of choice. The cam is a somewhat secondary consideration for me.
You should like your shiny new flagship... return it if you don't is my best advice.

I found this about HDR. I found it can definitely screw up images.

Related

Z3 Camera problem: Hardware or Software?

My Z3 camera has terrible white balance in Manual mode ( compared with the Z2, very stable in any light condition), especially under the high light, at some angles, the photo sometimes is overexposured, sometimes become very dark (?!)...here some example photo i took:
Manual:
- when pointing the camera straight to the light
DSC_0324 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
- When poiting the camera in lower angle to the light
DSC_0325 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Auto mode: the white balance is better as usual.
DSC_0326 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
DSC_0327 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Have any one got the same problem as mine? It is hardware fault or software that can be fixed in the future update?
hieuhd93 said:
My Z3 camera has terrible white balance in Manual mode ( compared with the Z2, very stable in any light condition), especially under the high light, at some angles, the photo sometimes is overexposured, sometimes become very dark (?!)...here some example photo i took:
Manual:
- when pointing the camera straight to the light
DSC_0324 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
- When poiting the camera in lower angle to the light
DSC_0325 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Auto mode: the white balance is better as usual.
DSC_0326 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
DSC_0327 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Have any one got the same problem as mine? It is hardware fault or software that can be fixed in the future update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't think of a way to sort this on this phone. The reason is the metering, rather than using "average" metering on manual like other phones, it uses a spot. So whatever you point at determines how bright the picture is.
Auto sorts this by changing modes probably to backlit etc, but then the photo's come out bad quality and fill of noise with no detail.
Unless Sony add average metering we will struggle.
beside this thing, the phone ccan do some really good photo in normal condition...Anyone had the same?
This is a good example of metering and how where you tap influences the shot. The issue isn't with white balance but rather exposure.
hieuhd93 said:
My Z3 camera has terrible white balance in Manual mode ( compared with the Z2, very stable in any light condition), especially under the high light, at some angles, the photo sometimes is overexposured, sometimes become very dark (?!)...here some example photo i took:
Manual:
- when pointing the camera straight to the light
DSC_0324 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ISO 80, 1/64, metering : spot
point at the light means ignore everything else so iso is low and fast exposure. Exposed for the light, ignores everything.
hieuhd93 said:
- When poiting the camera in lower angle to the light
DSC_0325 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ISO 1600, 1/25, metering : spot
When you say lower angle where exactly did you tap for focus ? was it the wall below the light or the clothes.
if you point at the dark area where the clothes are, camera thinks its dark and ups iso and blows out the image due to light close by.
You want to point somewhere its not too bright or too dark if using spot. if you point at the wall shot will be less overexposed.
hieuhd93 said:
Auto mode: the white balance is better as usual.
DSC_0326 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Auto shot, ISO 160, 1/32, meter is average
if you want to see the shot of the clothes center weighted is better. It means a circle (little bigger than spot) in the centre of the screen only will be considered for metering. Will ignore the light.
hieuhd93 said:
DSC_0327 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Auto shot, ISO 800, 1/64, meter is average.
ISO is too high. What did you do with this one ? where did you tap.
hieuhd93 said:
Have any one got the same problem as mine? It is hardware fault or software that can be fixed in the future update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there is no problem, this is how its supposed to work. When you include a bright source in your image it will overpower the others so you have to find a balance if you want to include that light in the shot. Or you could avoid the light.
Spot is sensitive so where you tap to get exposure matters depending on the scene.
SA defaults to average metering which is good when the light is similar across the scene, if there is very bright and dark it will just average everything and result isn't so good. Spot used carefully or center weighted will give a better result than average metering.
One Twelve said:
This is a good example of metering and how where you tap influences the shot. The issue isn't with white balance but rather exposure.
ISO 80, 1/64, metering : spot
point at the light means ignore everything else so iso is low and fast exposure. Exposed for the light, ignores everything.
ISO 1600, 1/25, metering : spot
When you say lower angle where exactly did you tap for focus ? was it the wall below the light or the clothes.
if you point at the dark area where the clothes are, camera thinks its dark and ups iso and blows out the image due to light close by.
You want to point somewhere its not too bright or too dark if using spot. if you point at the wall shot will be less overexposed.
Auto shot, ISO 160, 1/32, meter is average
if you want to see the shot of the clothes center weighted is better. It means a circle (little bigger than spot) in the centre of the screen only will be considered for metering. Will ignore the light.
Auto shot, ISO 800, 1/64, meter is average.
ISO is too high. What did you do with this one ? where did you tap.
there is no problem, this is how its supposed to work. When you include a bright source in your image it will overpower the others so you have to find a balance if you want to include that light in the shot. Or you could avoid the light.
Spot is sensitive so where you tap to get exposure matters depending on the scene.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your analyse. I choose meter: multiple spot and problem solved. I just dont get why it didn't take meter automatically as good as the Z2 (by default)...?
Post your z2 image on flickr.
Oh you removed the other shots too.
One Twelve said:
Post your z2 image on flickr.
Oh you removed the other shots too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Problem solved and amateur photos deleted . Tks for your concern
What was solved and how did you solve it

Camera Tint in Low Light

So i just received my Z5 (black) on Friday and while taking some low light and night photo shots I noticed a blue/purple tint to the top left corner of images. Testing the camera against a black background confirmed the discoloration. Photos were taken 16:9 8mp in auto mode. I have attached to samples taken while the camera was covered to produce the tint. Anyone else experience this?
Edit: Flash was off for both of these. The first photo was ISO 6400 and the second 12800
That's commonly seen when the ISO used is too large, usually in low light photos. Like there's some light coming out of the camera sensor. Could you check the ISO on those photos?
itsjustJOH said:
That's commonly seen when the ISO used is too large, usually in low light photos. Like there's some light coming out of the camera sensor. Could you check the ISO on those photos?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I updated the first post with the ISO values. I didn't see this behaviour with my Z3+ so I was curious as to hardware versus software problems.
Well, my Z3+ does the same if I try to shoot in a completely dark room (I was trying to make my own black wallpaper lol) . It's caused by the high ISO. You could shoot in manual with lowest ISO in a dark place to get pitch black output.
schecter7 said:
Well, my Z3+ does the same if I try to shoot in a completely dark room (I was trying to make my own black wallpaper lol) . It's caused by the high ISO. You could shoot in manual with lowest ISO in a dark place to get pitch black output.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. Do you get more tinting on one side of the image versus the other? Even with the high iso the output colour is not random and seems concentrated on the upper left side. Just want to make sure it isn't a sensor/lens issue. Thanks for the reply!
Try Night portrait and Night scene. They both use much lower ISO (especially Night scene).
Same issue plagued the Z3 sadly, looks like no improvement in this regard.
I've seen the tint in many samples over the past few weeks
joe_dude said:
Try Night portrait and Night scene. They both use much lower ISO (especially Night scene).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can confirm with night scene the output is nearly all black
FerroFlux said:
Interesting. Do you get more tinting on one side of the image versus the other? Even with the high iso the output colour is not random and seems concentrated on the upper left side. Just want to make sure it isn't a sensor/lens issue. Thanks for the reply!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did a 180 degree test earlier on Z3+ to make sure it's not a lens/sensor issue. Z5 does the same. You also need to make sure it's equally dark on both sides. Try it out. FYI, high/12800 ISO is not a bad thing. It's actually the best feature for shooting in 'low' light.
schecter7 said:
I did a 180 degree test earlier on Z3+ to make sure it's not a lens/sensor issue. Z5 does the same. You also need to make sure it's equally dark on both sides. Try it out. FYI, high/12800 ISO is not a bad thing. It's actually the best feature for shooting in 'low' light.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just by testing the camera in different orientations (i.e., 180 degrees between pics) it seems like the brightness is not the same on both sides. While rotated 180 the bottom right corner exhibits the same slight blue tint as the initial top left corner.
FerroFlux said:
Just by testing the camera in different orientations (i.e., 180 degrees between pics) it seems like the brightness is not the same on both sides. While rotated 180 the bottom right corner exhibits the same slight blue tint as the initial top left corner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just don't use SA when shooting low light photos. It ramps up the ISO way too high that causes that and also over exposes a shot and blurs the photo because of too much noise. Try testing it in a moderately lit (artificial light) room and try SA, manual with different ISOs and Night Mode on scenes.
schecter7 said:
I did a 180 degree test earlier on Z3+ to make sure it's not a lens/sensor issue. Z5 does the same. You also need to make sure it's equally dark on both sides. Try it out. FYI, high/12800 ISO is not a bad thing. It's actually the best feature for shooting in 'low' light.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
12800 ISO is not a bad thing, unless you're using a phone. Cameras on mobile, including the Z5, are just way too small compared to real cameras with large sensors and better hardware that just can't fit (yet) in a phone. Sony thought they would win the low-light mobile phone photography contest by introducing that insane high ISO, everyone else thought otherwise. It overexposes (way over) the shot and blurs everything to reduce too much noise. That's in the auto mode, which all tech review sites use in their reviews and that's why the Z5 (since the 12800 ISO was introduced in Z3) gets trashed in their comparison. At least you could still shoot a proper low-light photo using the manual controls by controlling the exposure and ISO levels, or choosing night mode.
Low-light means low light - you need high ISO. There's no way around high ISO in low-light when you're shooting from mobile phones. Using that, you can take shots from Xperias with relatively higher details in 'low' light.
What you're saying is a entirely different thing. The camera sw abuses the ISO when it shouldn't - those are moderate/challenging lights. That's not low light & it's a different discussion.
Here are some shots from Z3+ & S6 (read again - this is 'low' light) I posted earlier. Definitely, higher ISO came handy this time.
http://fortheloveoftech.com/2014/10/24/sony-xperia-z3-vs-nokia-lumia-1020-the-gold-standard-test/
Could anyone post a pic of their Z5's performance with the lens covered? I was going to exchange mine but the seller provided a picture taken using another in-stock Z5 that shows the same issue (strong blue tinting on the left side) at 12800 iso. Just curious if it could be fixed with an update to the camera or if it is a permanent hardware issue.
Z5 -> http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/schecter_7/media/DSC_1086_zpsbdtdubhk.jpg.html
Z3+ -> http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/schecter_7/media/DSC_1148_zpslikyyway.jpg.html
Same issue here. Theres going to be a bit no matter what, even what schecter posted I can still see the tint in a dark room
Yep, heres a video skip to 1:10 which shows the elevator scene Sonys camera is PURPLE
The Sony Xperia Z5 is a product in japan and its all feature is outstanding that is why i think there is no reason to be worried .Use the best product and love you very much .
Is this a hardware or software issue? I have a similar problem with my Z5 Compact, and am thinking whether I should exchange it...
i have the same issue too, no matter how i adjust i am unable to get rip of the purple tint in auto or Manual mode while taking a pitch black picture. at first i thought is my case but i remove the case still the same problem. day time takes great pictures

Christmas light "flares" in pictures?

I have an S7 and iPhone SE. Generally speaking, the S7 does better (though a little more yellow) than the SE in lower light scenarios. However, when it comes to these lights, the S7 keeps adding this awful flare or reflection or something. The SE doesn't do it. My wife's iPhone 7 doesn't do it. It really ruins the photo. I've attached an example (cropped) from a family member's house... but it's consistent in other scenarios similar to that - lower light, some dynamic range in the photo overall, etc. It does seem to only be in the portion of the photo (again similar elsewhere) that's closer to me as well. I'm about 4 feet from that front post.
Is this normal? Is this just an inherent part of the way the S7 camera handles things? It's perfect in every other situation and this is the first time I've come across an issue like this with it.
Thanks in advance for any input.
Obvious question but is the lens clean?
And HDR disabled?
Lens is clean, and HDR is on Auto. I never turn it off as it's been reliably good up until now.
Here are the stats from the original (if something is left off, then it wasn't showing any info):
Dimensions: 4032 x 3024
Hor resolution: 72 dpi
Vert resolution: 72 dpi
Bit depth: 24
Resolution unit: 2
Brightness: -2.13
Light Source: Unknown
Exposure Program: Normal
White Balance: Auto
EXIF version: 0220
F-stop: f/1.7
Exposure time: 1/10 sec.
ISO speed: ISO-400
Exposure bias: 0 step
Focal length: 4 mm
Max aperture: 1.53
Metering mode: Center Weighted Average
Flash Mode: No Flash
35mm focal length: 26
jntdroid said:
Lens is clean, and HDR is on Auto. I never turn it off as it's been reliably good up until now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Test it with HDR disabled, HDR takes 3 images with different exposure settings and merges them iirc
And it is well known to be a little buggy anyway, leaving pink dots on photos
Might not be that, but if you want to narrow down the issue you need to test everything
*Detection* said:
Test it with HDR disabled, HDR takes 3 images with different exposure settings and merges them iirc
And it is well known to be a little buggy anyway, leaving pink dots on photos
Might not be that, but if you want to narrow down the issue you need to test everything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agree, but based on the stats on the photo, it's looking like HDR was indeed disabled (or it would've indicated HDR right?)
I've read about the pink dot issue and never seen that on mine - and this doesn't appear to be the pink dot issue. The spots are clearly reflections or flares off of the lights that are closer. They're just so significantly worse than other phone cameras I've used. On the iPhones I referenced, you can see small tiny light dots in other parts of the photo, but they're much more inconspicuous and don't take away from the photo.
I'll keep playing with it this evening and see if I can narrow things down any more. I just wanted to see if others had seen this or had an "issue" like this, or if it was just a difficult spot that the S7 couldn't handle while other top-tier phone cameras could (if so, that would be a first in my experience).

Our phone deserves proper Portrait Mode!

Don't know about you but what we have "selective focus" or whatever they call it is a complete trash 99% of the time. We have 2 cameras and they can make great photos. They are perfect for Portrait mode but there is no one to add it I guess.
They added Live photos - Another thing half baked. Can't be used outside of your phone... At least Huawei phones are feature rich, they could make some way to export them as a GIFs or ot export the video so we can share it on another places.
Now they are adding 3D Panorama Camera Mode (there is XDA article about it) another thing NOT SO needed.
Why not invest some time and do a Portrait Mode so we can make great photos?
If you agree with me, send your feedback to Huawei from HiCare app.
Tweet to @huaweiMobile and @huawei on Twitter.
Write on Facebook: @huaweiMobile .
Who knows maybe they will add it later if we give enough feedback.
MartinDimchev said:
Don't know about you but what we have "selective focus" or whatever they call it is a complete trash 99% of the time. We have 2 cameras and they can make great photos. They are perfect for Portrait mode but there is no one to add it I guess.
They added Live photos - Another thing half baked. Can't be used outside of your phone... At least Huawei phones are feature rich, they could make some way to export them as a GIFs or ot export the video so we can share it on another places.
Now they are adding 3D Panorama Camera Mode (there is XDA article about it) another thing NOT SO needed.
Why not invest some time and do a Portrait Mode so we can make great photos?
If you agree with me, send your feedback to Huawei from HiCare app.
Tweet to @huaweiMobile and @huawei on Twitter.
Write on Facebook: @huaweiMobile .
Who knows maybe they will add it later if we give enough feedback.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wide aperture mode and potrait mode are similar. I think the only difference is you can alter the blur in wide aperture...
Trick with two cameras in P9 is that they are not used at the same time even to create bokeh effect. It was tested many times with covered lens or even when putting some bright thing to fool camera not to show info "dont cover lenses".
So sadly we talk here only about one sensor that still is damn nice, so at least for me its not big deal.
As for portrait mode... It would be nice to have but what we really expect from it?
Most of portrait modes on phones are actually the same as "beautification mode" where camera just slightly blur skin color and do some really small blur on background.
Its not really much and I actually found out that "beautification mode" in our device at level 3-4 do the trick just fine. Also "Food Mode" is pretty nice for portrait, it bump colors and(not sure if its me or that function) focus more on close objects so background have that light blur.
Other thing is that if you really want to make nice portrait mode... Expert mode is best to do it. Yes it need that few seconds to get set it up depending on lighting condition, but for most of time its a matter of selecting aperture mode, AF to manual(its tricky on phone but you can get used to it) and correction of exposition.
Also people should not be afraid of post processing. This is something that actually distinguishes professional photography from amateur. Whole magic of nice image is correcting it after taking picture. Not some heavy photoshoping, but "correcting image".
People today want everything automated and expect professional results. They take 100000 pictures and want them all to be nice.
Yes, photography is about taking lots of pictures, but what matter is to choose that one best, and polish it as much as possible.
Taking portrait is not different, you take few pictures, choose best one and polish it a bit after that.
You will never get perfect result with automatic mode in first try, this need some luck or proper preparation of scene, that no one really do when take pictures using camera.
The wide aperature (not called selective focus) is actually the portrait mode, similar to the one on iPhones(also on Note8).
It does use both cameras to percieve depth and create a bokeh/blur effect.
And if you are talking about P10's portrait mode, it is just the wide aperture mode along with beauty mode combined, and is inferior.
I think P9 does a decent job with it's potraits. It's not the best when compared to Pixel, iPhone and Note 8. But a little bit of tweaking and manually taking the photo at a good distance from subject. You can get great results. Plus you can't expect everything to be in the phone, as there are certain. limitations hardware wise. Best you can do is to see tutorials or find ways to manually tweak camera settings. Or you could get Autofocus, terrific free app that allows you to make potriats out of normal photos and it's very good.
Personally I don't find it the same as Portrait Mode on other phones. Especially with objects it's ridiculosly bad. About the two cameras I guess there is a way to make them work together and give great results. But even if they add it only for the one camera I would be really happy. It's not necessary but would be nice to have it. We see they are adding new things this one will be wellcome.
It's simple. Instead of using a button named "Portrait Mode", use the manual Settings to create portraits and bokeh effect on your own.
Because everyone knows how to use manual settings to achieve it right? Not so simple. Mode is better.
If you managed to ride a bike, create google account, register on xda forum and use phone it self at all, manual mode will be peace of cake.
Its a matter of just remembering what option do what, and you have really just 6 options where 2 of them are really clear to understand and not used too much(White Balance and Focus Mode that is just manual and auto).
Separated modes are handy, but they often "try to hard to be inteligent" and mess thing up. Its especially frustrating when you transfer images to PC and realize that image on phone look totally different than on PC, especially in terms of contrast and details...
Akinaro said:
Trick with two cameras in P9 is that they are not used at the same time even to create bokeh effect. It was tested many times with covered lens or even when putting some bright thing to fool camera not to show info "dont cover lenses".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are You sure? I tested it on my P9 and covering one lens (mono) has an effect... Just look at the file size and histogram. I can clearly see the diference (with covered lens there're less highlights).
Of course in PRO mode without RAW. RAW is taking photo from ONE lens.
galakty said:
Are You sure? I tested it on my P9 and covering one lens (mono) has an effect... Just look at the file size and histogram. I can clearly see the diference (with covered lens there're less highlights).
Of course in PRO mode without RAW. RAW is taking photo from ONE lens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There was few comparisons topic even here on XDA, but here have another one. Taken in a bit dark room near the window with just natural sun light. I used small tripod on table.
Normally I would use big one and take pic outside, but I dont have big one with me and its windy as hell and Im not in the mood for going outside
Beside here we focus on details of image, not on bokeh effect, so such close up is enough.
I used both method to cover BW lens. Simple thick tape, and second one that prevent phone from showing warning about covering lens: Bright single small LED diode facing straight in to the BW lens(its really tricky to set it in way that it dont reflect in to the other lense...) It not cover image but give big bright white blurred blob in the middle of image.
Image is saved in PNG format so it should not have additional compression artifacts.
https://goo.gl/DK1rjR
(of course download it for 100% size)
As you see... all images have almost the same amount of details. Of course BW look best especially with help of lower ISO.
Overall only auto mode lost some details but you need to stick your face to the screen and literally look for them, so I call it draw for both auto and manual.
Of course we need to remember that scene it self have lots to say, so with different lighting and scene you will get different image size and auto mode settings, but overall you will get the same results: There is no difference in image quality if you cover BW lense, even with bokeh effect.
Akinaro said:
There was few comparisons topic even here on XDA, but here have another one. Taken in a bit dark room near the window with just natural sun light. I used small tripod on table.
Normally I would use big one and take pic outside, but I dont have big one with me and its windy as hell and Im not in the mood for going outside
Beside here we focus on details of image, not on bokeh effect, so such close up is enough.
I used both method to cover BW lens. Simple thick tape, and second one that prevent phone from showing warning about covering lens: Bright single small LED diode facing straight in to the BW lens(its really tricky to set it in way that it dont reflect in to the other lense...) It not cover image but give big bright white blurred blob in the middle of image.
Image is saved in PNG format so it should not have additional compression artifacts.
https://goo.gl/DK1rjR
(of course download it for 100% size)
As you see... all images have almost the same amount of details. Of course BW look best especially with help of lower ISO.
Overall only auto mode lost some details but you need to stick your face to the screen and literally look for them, so I call it draw for both auto and manual.
Of course we need to remember that scene it self have lots to say, so with different lighting and scene you will get different image size and auto mode settings, but overall you will get the same results: There is no difference in image quality if you cover BW lense, even with bokeh effect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmmm... Im not talking about human eyes
The difference is too small to catch it, but if You look into file sizes and at histogram there IS a difference. Not huge, but there is.
The problem is... Huawei told us, they're using two sensors to produce one image. And its true, but its not like as twice as much light unfortunately. Difference is too little to catch it and say that. Covering the second lens is cutting some highlights, thats all... (right side of histogram).
I would love to, that camera is taking light with monochrome sensor and then putting colors on it... It would be AMAZING! Just take color and monochrome photos with same scenery. The monochrome photo is almost twice as fast as color (or has twice less ISO).
Why is that? I dont know, its a shame. Anyway its super camera still.
EDIT: Maybe for different ROMs its different?
Honestly I dont really care if it use both sensors to take pic or not. Its nice camera and that what matter. Many people including me tested it many time, and difference is non existing if you compare them, for most of time difference in size or histogram is a matter of just different settings and small changes in scene lighting, even small tilt or movement of camera can change it. Even if you just focus on different part of scene, there will be change in light expo(it will bright or darken some part and you will get totally different histogram and size). I can ensure you that if you put your phone in tripod and take proper test images without changing scene lighting too much you will never find a real difference, even with slightly different histogram(I actually dont get focusing on it that much... its like rating music relying on its spectrogram)
As for using two sensors and blend both images to create one... Today cameras and hardware is fast enough to take even 3 pictures instantly with different settings(exp, focus), so even with just one sensor you can get nice images that have nice dynamic range, bokeh effect and details.
So dual camera with both the same sensors are really just marketing gimmick and some people get that bait and spread false info about "superiority of dual cameras". Its a matter of creating ONE good sensor with good image algorithms to get perfect image(like proper cameras doing for past decades?). And I dont afraid to say that P9 have really nice camera and monochrome sensor is just additional feature, cool to use but not needed at all.
Yeah mulit-lenses have their pros, but we talk here about phone... you can stick on it additional wide angle lens, but beside that playing with blending images from few senors is overkill.
Jan Philipp said:
It's simple. Instead of using a button named "Portrait Mode", use the manual Settings to create portraits and bokeh effect on your own.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't reproduce wide aperture effect with pro settings. You can't adjust focal length or aperture.
Akinaro said:
Honestly I dont really care if it use both sensors to take pic or not. Its nice camera and that what matter. Many people including me tested it many time, and difference is non existing if you compare them, for most of time difference in size or histogram is a matter of just different settings and small changes in scene lighting, even small tilt or movement of camera can change it. Even if you just focus on different part of scene, there will be change in light expo(it will bright or darken some part and you will get totally different histogram and size). I can ensure you that if you put your phone in tripod and take proper test images without changing scene lighting too much you will never find a real difference, even with slightly different histogram(I actually dont get focusing on it that much... its like rating music relying on its spectrogram)
As for using two sensors and blend both images to create one... Today cameras and hardware is fast enough to take even 3 pictures instantly with different settings(exp, focus), so even with just one sensor you can get nice images that have nice dynamic range, bokeh effect and details.
So dual camera with both the same sensors are really just marketing gimmick and some people get that bait and spread false info about "superiority of dual cameras". Its a matter of creating ONE good sensor with good image algorithms to get perfect image(like proper cameras doing for past decades?). And I dont afraid to say that P9 have really nice camera and monochrome sensor is just additional feature, cool to use but not needed at all.
Yeah mulit-lenses have their pros, but we talk here about phone... you can stick on it additional wide angle lens, but beside that playing with blending images from few senors is overkill.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I happen to disagree, multiple sensors can be useful for zoom without losing detail (that's no gimmick), monochrome let you take pics with less noise in darker scenes (I really like that) , the bokeh effect normally use both lenses to create the image. In other phones, LG's for example, the wide angle lens may come handy in numerous situations. Sure, you can have one great camera and be satisfied but I don't think that multiple sensors are just pure marketing.
joser0913 said:
I happen to disagree, multiple sensors can be useful for zoom without losing detail (that's no gimmick), monochrome let you take pics with less noise in darker scenes (I really like that) , the bokeh effect normally use both lenses to create the image. In other phones, LG's for example, the wide angle lens may come handy in numerous situations. Sure, you can have one great camera and be satisfied but I don't think that multiple sensors are just pure marketing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
eh... I said that, quote: ""So dual camera with both the same sensors are really just marketing gimmick"". I was referring all the time to two identical sensors. Read whole topic...
I mentioned that having telephoto is different story, quote: ""(...) you can stick on it additional wide angle lens, but beside that playing with blending images from few senors is overkill.""
But still as I said al whats matter is quality of that sensor and software side of it(algorithms), there is lots of phones and camera with just one senor but because of quality of optic and optimized software it give you better end results when you compare it to any dual cam in 1:1 comparison

Question TERRIBLE photo corner softness?

So I got my S22 ultra yesterday and overall I am very satisfied with it except the sharpness of the corners from the main camera, my old oneplus 8 pro is so much better at that.
It is very noticeable when shooting RAW photos or 108mp.
Is there anyone else with this kind of issue or maybe I got a defective unit?
Left is oneplus right is the s22.
It's the lense. If more than other copies, it's a bad copy. This happens.
Some corner blurring is typical and acceptable. Blurring near the center especially and as it you go outward are far less acceptable.
Every lense has a blur chart that varies by degrees throughout it's image. Even the best primes have blur; this is an exception lense that goes for over $5G! It's blur chart is near perfect.
blackhawk said:
It's the lense. If more than other copies, it's a bad copy. This happens.
Some corner blurring is typical and acceptable. Blurring near the center especially and as it you go outward are far less acceptable.
Every lense has a blur chart that varies by degrees throughout it's image. Even the best primes have blur; this is an exception lense that goes for over $5G! It's blur chart is near perfect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know its the lens, I want to know if everyone has it to this level or maybe its just my phone.
Look at the difference with the oneplus, I don't think its acceptable.
TheNewLegend said:
I know its the lens, I want to know if everyone has it to this level or maybe its just my phone.
Look at the difference with the oneplus, I don't think its acceptable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to compare the same lense/cam model. Go to a store and try a demo or two.
Return it if not satisfied.
blackhawk said:
You need to compare the same lense/cam model. Go to a store and try a demo or two.
Return it if not satisfied.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay maybe I'll try that. A friend of mine has a s21 ultra, they share the same sensor, maybe I should compare with his phone?
BTW is that the quote of Joey from friends ?
TheNewLegend said:
Okay maybe I'll try that. A friend of mine has a s21 ultra, they share the same sensor, maybe I should compare with his phone?
BTW is that the quote of Joey from friends ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Remember there's more than one cam... Friends? Never watched it.
TheNewLegend said:
Okay maybe I'll try that. A friend of mine has a s21 ultra, they share the same sensor, maybe I should compare with his phone?
BTW is that the quote of Joey from friends ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They might be the same sensor but the S22U has a wider main lens than the S21U. Wide lenses are much more prone to distortion and softer corners. Definitely hoping future models go back to being less wide.
beserker15 said:
They might be the same sensor but the S22U has a wider main lens than the S21U. Wide lenses are much more prone to distortion and softer corners. Definitely hoping future models go back to being less wide.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For wide angle use the save option to automatically apply correction. This is for primarily image distortion though.
Interesting. My camera app does not have the ultra wide correction option. The other two options are under "picture format". My old Note 20 did have that option.
brachiopod said:
Interesting. My camera app does not have the ultra wide correction option. The other two options are under "picture format". My old Note 20 did have that option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wonder if it just automatically does it now?
That screenshot is from my N10+ running on Pie... meh, I don't like rude surprises
Both photos (on the link on the end) are in 108 mode, 2nd taken seconds after the first, so conditions are the same.
On the 1st photo I have just pressed shutter button and that's it.
On the 2nd button I have taped with finger onto the TV tower on the right to lock focus/exposure and then pressed shutter button.
Results are interesting. As you can see on the 1st photo, trees are detailed and sharp, in focus, while the TV tower is blurry, without details.
But on the 2nd picture, you can see the TV tower (or windows on the buildings) has details, even it is in the corner where sharpness is lower then in the center.
I don't understand this behavior, since there shouldn't be any difference in focus because of the distance from the subjects. In normal 12Mp mode everything is sharp and in focus across the image.
I don't have explanation for this behavior, since the size of the sensor, focal length and distance from the subject shouldn't have any impact on that. It looks something is broken in the image processing pipeline.
Samsung issues - Google Drive
drive.google.com
ssglackey said:
Both photos (on the link on the end) are in 108 mode, 2nd taken seconds after the first, so conditions are the same.
On the 1st photo I have just pressed shutter button and that's it.
On the 2nd button I have taped with finger onto the TV tower on the right to lock focus/exposure and then pressed shutter button.
Results are interesting. As you can see on the 1st photo, trees are detailed and sharp, in focus, while the TV tower is blurry, without details.
But on the 2nd picture, you can see the TV tower (or windows on the buildings) has details, even it is in the corner where sharpness is lower then in the center.
I don't understand this behavior, since there shouldn't be any difference in focus because of the distance from the subjects. In normal 12Mp mode everything is sharp and in focus across the image.
I don't have explanation for this behavior, since the size of the sensor, focal length and distance from the subject shouldn't have any impact on that. It looks something is broken in the image processing pipeline.
Samsung issues - Google Drive
drive.google.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the samples, I tried to focus on the corners too and some how it got sharper however the center of the image got worse even though everything should be in focus.
In 12mp mode it just boost the sharpness with processing. that's why everything is sharp.
TheNewLegend said:
Thanks for the samples, I tried to focus on the corners too and some how it got sharper however the center of the image got worse even though everything should be in focus.
In 12mp mode it just boost the sharpness with processing. that's why everything is sharp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you can have sharp center or the corners, but not both. But why?
I don't think in 12mp mode it is just boosting the sharpness, if it is out of focus, it can't be fixed by sharpening.
It may help if you submit a bug report directly from the phone via the member app as I did (still waiting for reply from Samsung) - more reports, more attention.
ssglackey said:
Yes, you can have sharp center or the corners, but not both. But why?
I don't think in 12mp mode it is just boosting the sharpness, if it is out of focus, it can't be fixed by sharpening.
It may help if you submit a bug report directly from the phone via the member app as I did (still waiting for reply from Samsung) - more reports, more attention.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already did that too
TheNewLegend said:
I already did that too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the Exynos version, wondering if it is also affecting SD...
ssglackey said:
I have the Exynos version, wondering if it is also affecting SD...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine is sd so it is..
ssglackey said:
Yes, you can have sharp center or the corners, but not both. But why?
I don't think in 12mp mode it is just boosting the sharpness, if it is out of focus, it can't be fixed by sharpening.
It may help if you submit a bug report directly from the phone via the member app as I did (still waiting for reply from Samsung) - more reports, more attention.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because of the blur pattern and dof.
All lens have it and you can't have all points in focus at once especially with a fast lense. They always have a shallow depth of field. Even stopped down only objects at the same distance can be perfectly focus and there's always some blur even than.
You can't stop down these smartphone cams, one of their limitations; you're stuck with a wide open lense.
Multi element (typically 7 elements or greater) lens can correct for it to a greater extent but you see the blur chart example I posted. That's one of the best primes available, all $6G's of that beast.
It's not just the blur pattern that the optic engineers need to address. Different colors have different wavelengths so they want to focus at different lengths. There are many tradeoffs. With only a small number of elements in a very small space the options are limited. Price is another consideration.
blackhawk said:
Because of the blur pattern and dof.
All lens have it and you can't have all points in focus at once especially with a fast lense. They always have a shallow depth of field. Even stopped down only objects at the same distance can be perfectly focus and there's always some blur even than.
You can't stop down these smartphone cams, one of their limitations; you're stuck with a wide open lense.
Multi element (typically 7 elements or greater) lens can correct for it to a greater extent but you see the blur chart example I posted. That's one of the best primes available, all $6G's of that beast.
It's not just the blur pattern that the optic engineers need to address. Different colors have different wavelengths so they want to focus at different lengths. There are many tradeoffs. With only a small number of elements in a very small space the options are limited. Price is another consideration.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But in the standard 12Mpix mode everything far enough is sharp and in focus, using the same lens, only in 108Mpix mode you see this issue. Your statement is valid, but with tiny sensors in smartphones all distant object must be equally in focus. I can't achieve such blur for distant object with Full frame mirrorless (35mm f1.8) and that is another league.
TheNewLegend said:
So I got my S22 ultra yesterday and overall I am very satisfied with it except the sharpness of the corners from the main camera, my old oneplus 8 pro is so much better at that.
It is very noticeable when shooting RAW photos or 108mp.
Is there anyone else with this kind of issue or maybe I got a defective unit?
Left is oneplus right is the s22.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The shaky shot in S22 and steady shot in Oneplus, clean the lens and try without shaking the device, or maybe as you said it could be a defective phone!
After a comparison with s21 ultra there was a slight difference in sharpness, however I don't know why but the colors were much better with the s21.
I'll compare them again later.
blackhawk said:
Because of the blur pattern and dof.
All lens have it and you can't have all points in focus at once especially with a fast lense. They always have a shallow depth of field. Even stopped down only objects at the same distance can be perfectly focus and there's always some blur even than.
You can't stop down these smartphone cams, one of their limitations; you're stuck with a wide open lense.
Multi element (typically 7 elements or greater) lens can correct for it to a greater extent but you see the blur chart example I posted. That's one of the best primes available, all $6G's of that beast.
It's not just the blur pattern that the optic engineers need to address. Different colors have different wavelengths so they want to focus at different lengths. There are many tradeoffs. With only a small number of elements in a very small space the options are limited. Price is another consideration.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just like glackey said, even with my FF camera both of the subjects will be in focus, I don't think that DOF is the issue here.
steveroysston said:
The shaky shot in S22 and steady shot in Oneplus, clean the lens and try without shaking the device, or maybe as you said it could be a defective phone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both of the phones were steady and the lens was clean.

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