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Z3 Camera problem: Hardware or Software?

My Z3 camera has terrible white balance in Manual mode ( compared with the Z2, very stable in any light condition), especially under the high light, at some angles, the photo sometimes is overexposured, sometimes become very dark (?!)...here some example photo i took:
Manual:
- when pointing the camera straight to the light
DSC_0324 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
- When poiting the camera in lower angle to the light
DSC_0325 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Auto mode: the white balance is better as usual.
DSC_0326 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
DSC_0327 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Have any one got the same problem as mine? It is hardware fault or software that can be fixed in the future update?

hieuhd93 said:
My Z3 camera has terrible white balance in Manual mode ( compared with the Z2, very stable in any light condition), especially under the high light, at some angles, the photo sometimes is overexposured, sometimes become very dark (?!)...here some example photo i took:
Manual:
- when pointing the camera straight to the light
DSC_0324 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
- When poiting the camera in lower angle to the light
DSC_0325 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Auto mode: the white balance is better as usual.
DSC_0326 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
DSC_0327 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Have any one got the same problem as mine? It is hardware fault or software that can be fixed in the future update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't think of a way to sort this on this phone. The reason is the metering, rather than using "average" metering on manual like other phones, it uses a spot. So whatever you point at determines how bright the picture is.
Auto sorts this by changing modes probably to backlit etc, but then the photo's come out bad quality and fill of noise with no detail.
Unless Sony add average metering we will struggle.

beside this thing, the phone ccan do some really good photo in normal condition...Anyone had the same?

This is a good example of metering and how where you tap influences the shot. The issue isn't with white balance but rather exposure.
hieuhd93 said:
My Z3 camera has terrible white balance in Manual mode ( compared with the Z2, very stable in any light condition), especially under the high light, at some angles, the photo sometimes is overexposured, sometimes become very dark (?!)...here some example photo i took:
Manual:
- when pointing the camera straight to the light
DSC_0324 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ISO 80, 1/64, metering : spot
point at the light means ignore everything else so iso is low and fast exposure. Exposed for the light, ignores everything.
hieuhd93 said:
- When poiting the camera in lower angle to the light
DSC_0325 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ISO 1600, 1/25, metering : spot
When you say lower angle where exactly did you tap for focus ? was it the wall below the light or the clothes.
if you point at the dark area where the clothes are, camera thinks its dark and ups iso and blows out the image due to light close by.
You want to point somewhere its not too bright or too dark if using spot. if you point at the wall shot will be less overexposed.
hieuhd93 said:
Auto mode: the white balance is better as usual.
DSC_0326 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Auto shot, ISO 160, 1/32, meter is average
if you want to see the shot of the clothes center weighted is better. It means a circle (little bigger than spot) in the centre of the screen only will be considered for metering. Will ignore the light.
hieuhd93 said:
DSC_0327 by trunghieuhd93, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Auto shot, ISO 800, 1/64, meter is average.
ISO is too high. What did you do with this one ? where did you tap.
hieuhd93 said:
Have any one got the same problem as mine? It is hardware fault or software that can be fixed in the future update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there is no problem, this is how its supposed to work. When you include a bright source in your image it will overpower the others so you have to find a balance if you want to include that light in the shot. Or you could avoid the light.
Spot is sensitive so where you tap to get exposure matters depending on the scene.
SA defaults to average metering which is good when the light is similar across the scene, if there is very bright and dark it will just average everything and result isn't so good. Spot used carefully or center weighted will give a better result than average metering.

One Twelve said:
This is a good example of metering and how where you tap influences the shot. The issue isn't with white balance but rather exposure.
ISO 80, 1/64, metering : spot
point at the light means ignore everything else so iso is low and fast exposure. Exposed for the light, ignores everything.
ISO 1600, 1/25, metering : spot
When you say lower angle where exactly did you tap for focus ? was it the wall below the light or the clothes.
if you point at the dark area where the clothes are, camera thinks its dark and ups iso and blows out the image due to light close by.
You want to point somewhere its not too bright or too dark if using spot. if you point at the wall shot will be less overexposed.
Auto shot, ISO 160, 1/32, meter is average
if you want to see the shot of the clothes center weighted is better. It means a circle (little bigger than spot) in the centre of the screen only will be considered for metering. Will ignore the light.
Auto shot, ISO 800, 1/64, meter is average.
ISO is too high. What did you do with this one ? where did you tap.
there is no problem, this is how its supposed to work. When you include a bright source in your image it will overpower the others so you have to find a balance if you want to include that light in the shot. Or you could avoid the light.
Spot is sensitive so where you tap to get exposure matters depending on the scene.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your analyse. I choose meter: multiple spot and problem solved. I just dont get why it didn't take meter automatically as good as the Z2 (by default)...?

Post your z2 image on flickr.
Oh you removed the other shots too.

One Twelve said:
Post your z2 image on flickr.
Oh you removed the other shots too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Problem solved and amateur photos deleted . Tks for your concern

What was solved and how did you solve it

Camera Tint in Low Light

So i just received my Z5 (black) on Friday and while taking some low light and night photo shots I noticed a blue/purple tint to the top left corner of images. Testing the camera against a black background confirmed the discoloration. Photos were taken 16:9 8mp in auto mode. I have attached to samples taken while the camera was covered to produce the tint. Anyone else experience this?
Edit: Flash was off for both of these. The first photo was ISO 6400 and the second 12800

That's commonly seen when the ISO used is too large, usually in low light photos. Like there's some light coming out of the camera sensor. Could you check the ISO on those photos?

itsjustJOH said:
That's commonly seen when the ISO used is too large, usually in low light photos. Like there's some light coming out of the camera sensor. Could you check the ISO on those photos?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I updated the first post with the ISO values. I didn't see this behaviour with my Z3+ so I was curious as to hardware versus software problems.

Well, my Z3+ does the same if I try to shoot in a completely dark room (I was trying to make my own black wallpaper lol) . It's caused by the high ISO. You could shoot in manual with lowest ISO in a dark place to get pitch black output.

schecter7 said:
Well, my Z3+ does the same if I try to shoot in a completely dark room (I was trying to make my own black wallpaper lol) . It's caused by the high ISO. You could shoot in manual with lowest ISO in a dark place to get pitch black output.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. Do you get more tinting on one side of the image versus the other? Even with the high iso the output colour is not random and seems concentrated on the upper left side. Just want to make sure it isn't a sensor/lens issue. Thanks for the reply!

Try Night portrait and Night scene. They both use much lower ISO (especially Night scene).

Same issue plagued the Z3 sadly, looks like no improvement in this regard.
I've seen the tint in many samples over the past few weeks

joe_dude said:
Try Night portrait and Night scene. They both use much lower ISO (especially Night scene).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can confirm with night scene the output is nearly all black

FerroFlux said:
Interesting. Do you get more tinting on one side of the image versus the other? Even with the high iso the output colour is not random and seems concentrated on the upper left side. Just want to make sure it isn't a sensor/lens issue. Thanks for the reply!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did a 180 degree test earlier on Z3+ to make sure it's not a lens/sensor issue. Z5 does the same. You also need to make sure it's equally dark on both sides. Try it out. FYI, high/12800 ISO is not a bad thing. It's actually the best feature for shooting in 'low' light.

schecter7 said:
I did a 180 degree test earlier on Z3+ to make sure it's not a lens/sensor issue. Z5 does the same. You also need to make sure it's equally dark on both sides. Try it out. FYI, high/12800 ISO is not a bad thing. It's actually the best feature for shooting in 'low' light.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just by testing the camera in different orientations (i.e., 180 degrees between pics) it seems like the brightness is not the same on both sides. While rotated 180 the bottom right corner exhibits the same slight blue tint as the initial top left corner.

FerroFlux said:
Just by testing the camera in different orientations (i.e., 180 degrees between pics) it seems like the brightness is not the same on both sides. While rotated 180 the bottom right corner exhibits the same slight blue tint as the initial top left corner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just don't use SA when shooting low light photos. It ramps up the ISO way too high that causes that and also over exposes a shot and blurs the photo because of too much noise. Try testing it in a moderately lit (artificial light) room and try SA, manual with different ISOs and Night Mode on scenes.
schecter7 said:
I did a 180 degree test earlier on Z3+ to make sure it's not a lens/sensor issue. Z5 does the same. You also need to make sure it's equally dark on both sides. Try it out. FYI, high/12800 ISO is not a bad thing. It's actually the best feature for shooting in 'low' light.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
12800 ISO is not a bad thing, unless you're using a phone. Cameras on mobile, including the Z5, are just way too small compared to real cameras with large sensors and better hardware that just can't fit (yet) in a phone. Sony thought they would win the low-light mobile phone photography contest by introducing that insane high ISO, everyone else thought otherwise. It overexposes (way over) the shot and blurs everything to reduce too much noise. That's in the auto mode, which all tech review sites use in their reviews and that's why the Z5 (since the 12800 ISO was introduced in Z3) gets trashed in their comparison. At least you could still shoot a proper low-light photo using the manual controls by controlling the exposure and ISO levels, or choosing night mode.

Low-light means low light - you need high ISO. There's no way around high ISO in low-light when you're shooting from mobile phones. Using that, you can take shots from Xperias with relatively higher details in 'low' light.
What you're saying is a entirely different thing. The camera sw abuses the ISO when it shouldn't - those are moderate/challenging lights. That's not low light & it's a different discussion.
Here are some shots from Z3+ & S6 (read again - this is 'low' light) I posted earlier. Definitely, higher ISO came handy this time.
http://fortheloveoftech.com/2014/10/24/sony-xperia-z3-vs-nokia-lumia-1020-the-gold-standard-test/

Could anyone post a pic of their Z5's performance with the lens covered? I was going to exchange mine but the seller provided a picture taken using another in-stock Z5 that shows the same issue (strong blue tinting on the left side) at 12800 iso. Just curious if it could be fixed with an update to the camera or if it is a permanent hardware issue.

Z5 -> http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/schecter_7/media/DSC_1086_zpsbdtdubhk.jpg.html
Z3+ -> http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/schecter_7/media/DSC_1148_zpslikyyway.jpg.html

Same issue here. Theres going to be a bit no matter what, even what schecter posted I can still see the tint in a dark room

Yep, heres a video skip to 1:10 which shows the elevator scene Sonys camera is PURPLE

The Sony Xperia Z5 is a product in japan and its all feature is outstanding that is why i think there is no reason to be worried .Use the best product and love you very much .

Is this a hardware or software issue? I have a similar problem with my Z5 Compact, and am thinking whether I should exchange it...

i have the same issue too, no matter how i adjust i am unable to get rip of the purple tint in auto or Manual mode while taking a pitch black picture. at first i thought is my case but i remove the case still the same problem. day time takes great pictures

Camera Tests OpenCamera vs Stock, AP 2 vs without, HDR vs None, Auto vs Tap Focus

I just got mine today and was doing some testing. I've used Opencamera a lot in the past. I noticed it allows AP 2 which everybody's hunting down Gcam for but it seems to work just fine in Opencam. It does seem to break video in opencam though! Major bummer. It tries to kick it into 56mbps bitrate not matter what I set the bitrate to manually and that doesn't seem to be supported. So AP2 for photos only in OC thus far.
However, I'm not all that convinced that it helps all that much. I did notice substantially less noise so that's good, but dynamic range doesn't seem to change that much and honestly isn't the best I saw. The best dynamic range was with HDR on in the stock camera app with tapping to focus on the edge of where my dark black stove and a white piece of paper meet. I never did HDR auto, always on or off just to be sure.
So there's a bunch of different shots in different folders in the zip. Keep in mind this is pretty low light, so they're all a bit noisy and not as sharp. It's in my dark apt kitchen with just 2 4.5watt LED bulbs (40 watt equivalent) but I think it's a good mix of bright light source and dark with lots of bottles and stone skillet for color, texture, and shadows. I'll try some more tests in the daytime of course.
Some are OpenCam and some stock app. There's a few that are 48mp vs 12mp but I really didn't see any noticeable difference between the two so might as well just stick to 12. You can only really tell the 48mp ones because the pic will be around 9 to 10.5 mb and the 12 are around 3 to 5 ish mb.
Opencamera also has some kind of dynamic contrast boosting feature, but I didn't find it to make any difference at all.
There are also several versions of the just auto aka point and shoot vs tapping on the spot where my dark black stove meets the white paper and that yields the best dynamic range by far without other factors that modify that a little bit. Always try to find a good dark/light mix spot to tap on for your pic for best metering if you can. That alone makes sooooo much difference.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1A4KahfWKgIkytBhAbxBRKWDv7nr57Z5p
See what you guys think. Sorry about the crappy subject matter but I wanted it to be a tough scenario and consistent among all the tries.
Folders inside the zip tell what the pics are mostly. I labelled some of the pics themselves but not all. I need to make a list of things so I can remember the order after taking them and transferring to the PC later lol.

Camera OIS/sharpness?

Hi folks,
I am presently playing around with my P40 Pro, especially the camera as this is of special interest for me.
I am comparing with a Oneplus 8 Pro.
What I noticed is that the P40 Pro camera is giving a lot more blurred images at medium to lower lighting, in fact it's surprisingly diffcult for me to get a sharp indoor shot.
This is on .122 Firmware and I am bit at a loss on how to tackle this, in fact it's a bit disappointing for such a hyped camera.
Isn't the P40 pro camera supposed to have OIS?
And this is with very comparable aperture and shutter speed between OP8P and P40P...
Am I the only one? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Axel

Are you using Google services?

Noexcusses said:
Are you using Google services?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes... Why?... Is there a known influence?

What do you exactly mean by blurred photos. Motion blur or out of focus blur? Motion blur is caused by slower shutter speed. Focus blur by focus failure. There is also blur(bokeh) caused by much bigger camera sensor used in P40 PRO. So depending what your subject is you may experience different results. Longer shutter speed and lower ISO is preferred for best image quality as long as you have static scene. But in scene with moving object, object in motion can be blurred. Personally I am on .121 and I rarely get blured photo due to any phenomena described above.

D1G1TE said:
What do you exactly mean by blurred photos. Motion blur or out of focus blur?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To me it seems like motion blur from camera shake... But images at around 1/30s with OIS should normally be fine - at least they are on the other handsets I tried...
This is why I am asking, maybe OIS is not working... Anybody got an idea to test this with some tool?

Have you contacted Huawei customer support? Could be faulty, it also may be worth checking out the huawei community page to see if that is the case

TomFordGoesForth said:
Have you contacted Huawei customer support? Could be faulty, it also may be worth checking out the huawei community page to see if that is the case
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, that's my fear.... Well, I am still within the return period, maybe it makes sense to go back to the dealer instead...

EDIT: seems a factory reset fixed it, now I need to discuss with myself whether I try to go without Google for the time being....

s3axel said:
Yes... Why?... Is there a known influence?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes some Google services effecting camera... I have tested many ways..

Noexcusses said:
Yes some Google services effecting camera... I have tested many ways..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is very interesting, would you mind sharing your findings/theory ?

Noexcusses said:
Yes some Google services effecting camera... I have tested many ways..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it fits to my experience, as written above. Sadly that nails the coffin then, the P40 Pro is going back Thanks for sharing, though

Yeah, firlando code method creates on my night shots some effect lines and on a1234567 method i have good night shots but blurry fotos on daylight... Today i will try to use my phone without Googleplay services...
This installing method on Google services witch you need to go on apps and delete playstore etc i think is the keys for the problem... We need a clean installation without deletations..

s3axel said:
Well, it fits to my experience, as written above. Sadly that nails the coffin then, the P40 Pro is going back Thanks for sharing, though
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong
Observation about the lines in the foto. Lines are reflections from lights. I realised it today. Im testing camera without Google services. Tomorrow i will test on daylight.. I think 121 update is bad update.. is there any way to roal back to 112?

Here its a foto without Google services... Still no sharp almost blur... I think is Just the 121 update is worst than out of the box 112 version
We just w8 the 127 update

Noexcusses said:
Here its a foto without Google services... Still no sharp almost blur... I think is Just the 121 update is worst than out of the box 112 version
We just w8 the 127 update
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for checking this out, then I am a bit reassured
Hopefully this is fixed with a near term update because this really sucks!
Don't know I rolling back is possible,will need to investigate a bit more....

Noexcusses said:
Here its a foto without Google services... Still no sharp almost blur... I think is Just the 121 update is worst than out of the box 112 version
We just w8 the 127 update
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am also disappointed with this update (121) pics quality is average but video quality is lower than on p20 pro.
Zoom doesn't seem to work properly either - it's digital up to 8,5 -10 x then periscope kicks in.

Noexcusses said:
Here its a foto without Google services... Still no sharp almost blur... I think is Just the 121 update is worst than out of the box 112 version
We just w8 the 127 update
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Erm ... I don't see anything wrong with that picture.
You focused on the closed petal at the left side, it's perfectly sharp, rest blurred as it should be. Not the prettiest bokeh, but okay.
Do I overlook something?
---------- Post added at 07:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:24 AM ----------
Noexcusses said:
Yeah, firlando code method creates on my night shots some effect lines and on a1234567 method i have good night shots but blurry fotos on daylight... Today i will try to use my phone without Googleplay services....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Again, I don't see what's wrong with that picture. Maybe you could point out the problem a bit more in detail?
It would also be quite helpful for sorting out culprits if you (and anyone else) accompany your pictures with some EXIF data, like shooting mode, AI on/off, ISO, exposure, aperture and zoom factor. Unfortunately, XDA seems to remove that data from posted pictures.
---------- Post added at 07:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:21 AM ----------
forever_lol said:
Zoom doesn't seem to work properly either - it's digital up to 8,5 -10 x then periscope kicks in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's indeed the case with firmware .121. And it's far worse in the "Pro" mode, rendering "Pro" mode almost useless.
Let's hope the next updates home in on that fault.

Look the sharpness on 112 version

Noexcusses said:
Look the sharpness on 112 version
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EXIF data? Answers to me previous questions?
These are important information, e. g. telling me about the aperture of the lens used, making a difference regarding depth of field, possibly explaining why you *perceive* a picture as not okay.
Besides that:
Similar quality, similar sharpness - if not identical.
This time, there was more distance to the subject, widening the depth of field, the "sharpness range."
Let's assume the picture was taken with the main 50 MP camera, having an aperture of f/1.9 - a big difference to the aperture of the telephoto lens with f/3.4.
The smaller the f-number, the larger the physical lens opening. And the larger the physical lens opening, the shallower, smaller the depth of field.
Meaning: With a shallow depth of field, a few millimeters more or less distance to the subject can make the difference between razorsharp and blurry. Result: Only objects exactly within the depth of field are rendered sharp.
With a wide depth of field and a larger distance, like with the telephoto lens, it's less crucial, every part of the flower will be sharp.
I would show you example pictures if I was allowed to use external links - but my post count is still too low.
Just try taking pictures of the same flower with different lenses, one with the 50 MP main camera, one with the telephoto lens. With the latter, increase the distance till the flower roughly occupies the same space in the viewfinder as with the main camera.
Important: Use a zoom factor of 10, not 5 - this makes sure your really switch to the telephoto lens. At present, there's a software bug causing the camera to often use horrible digital zoom for 5 x instead of the real telephoto lens (seems to be connected with the metered subject's distance). You can check this by covering the rectangular telephoto lens with a finger. If the picture vanishes, the lens is doing it's job.
You'll find out that the photo taken with the main camera has sharp and blurry areas, while the photo taken with the telephoto lens is rendered sharp everywhere.
That's the results of aperture and distance.
And that's why I don't see anything wrong with your first flower picture: Wide open aperture, small distance = tiny depth of field = tiny area of sharpness.
The way it should be because we all like that bokeh effect (blurry background, making the subject stand out) more than typical "flat" smartphone pictures.
But this benefit is paid with a drawback, the small depth of field, rendering everything outside that "sweet spot" blurry.
Perfectly normal, nothing to write home about.
Oh wait, I'll dare to post a link anyway - hope the moderators won't kill me for that impertinence.
Just took two quick photos right outside my house, clearly showing the effects I explained above.
http://waagerecht.com/kram/Flower_comparison.jpg
Picture is quite large, so be warned.
Telephoto: ISO 50, f/3.4, 1/196 s. Main lens: ISO 50, f/1.9, 1/846 s. Both shot in Photo auto mode, no AI.
About that numbers: ISO 50 tells me there should be no grain in the picture; the higher the ISO, the more grain in the picture.
f/3.4 tells me there's a wide depth of field, so there should be no greater blur. Also tells me the telephoto lens was used. f/1.9 tells me to expect blur everywhere outside the "sweet spot", main lens used.
1/196 and 1/846 tell me about very short exposure, so in-motion unsharpness (camera shake, moving subject) is very unlikely.
And because the telephoto lens has a smaller aperture of f/3.4 (and lenses with a higher curvature), less light reaches the sensor, thus exposure time is greatly increased, 1/196 s versus 1/846 s.
See why I asked for that data?
You'll see that the telephoto shot is all sharp (until you zoom in; lower sensor resolution plus digital zoom, today's modern pestilence), you can even see the structure of the green leaves, while the main camera shot has everything blurred except the flower's pistils.
That's just the way cameras work.
So enjoy your fine camera, it does a great work and does it right.

Klosterbruder said:
EXIF data? Answers to me previous questions?
These are important information, e. g. telling me about the aperture of the lens used, making a difference regarding depth of field, possibly explaining why you *perceive* a picture as not okay.
Besides that:
Similar quality, similar sharpness - if not identical.
This time, there was more distance to the subject, widening the depth of field, the "sharpness range."
Let's assume the picture was taken with the main 50 MP camera, having an aperture of f/1.9 - a big difference to the aperture of the telephoto lens with f/3.4.
The smaller the f-number, the larger the physical lens opening. And the larger the physical lens opening, the shallower, smaller the depth of field.
Meaning: With a shallow depth of field, a few millimeters more or less distance to the subject can make the difference between razorsharp and blurry. Result: Only objects exactly within the depth of field are rendered sharp.
With a wide depth of field and a larger distance, like with the telephoto lens, it's less crucial, every part of the flower will be sharp.
I would show you example pictures if I was allowed to use external links - but my post count is still too low.
Just try taking pictures of the same flower with different lenses, one with the 50 MP main camera, one with the telephoto lens. With the latter, increase the distance till the flower roughly occupies the same space in the viewfinder as with the main camera.
Important: Use a zoom factor of 10, not 5 - this makes sure your really switch to the telephoto lens. At present, there's a software bug causing the camera to often use horrible digital zoom for 5 x instead of the real telephoto lens (seems to be connected with the metered subject's distance). You can check this by covering the rectangular telephoto lens with a finger. If the picture vanishes, the lens is doing it's job.
You'll find out that the photo taken with the main camera has sharp and blurry areas, while the photo taken with the telephoto lens is rendered sharp everywhere.
That's the results of aperture and distance.
And that's why I don't see anything wrong with your first flower picture: Wide open aperture, small distance = tiny depth of field = tiny area of sharpness.
The way it should be because we all like that bokeh effect (blurry background, making the subject stand out) more than typical "flat" smartphone pictures.
But this benefit is paid with a drawback, the small depth of field, rendering everything outside that "sweet spot" blurry.
Perfectly normal, nothing to write home about.
Oh wait, I'll dare to post a link anyway - hope the moderators won't kill me for that impertinence.
Just took two quick photos right outside my house, clearly showing the effects I explained above.
http://waagerecht.com/kram/Flower_comparison.jpg
Picture is quite large, so be warned.
Telephoto: ISO 50, f/3.4, 1/196 s. Main lens: ISO 50, f/1.9, 1/846 s. Both shot in Photo auto mode, no AI.
About that numbers: ISO 50 tells me there should be no grain in the picture; the higher the ISO, the more grain in the picture.
f/3.4 tells me there's a wide depth of field, so there should be no greater blur. Also tells me the telephoto lens was used. f/1.9 tells me to expect blur everywhere outside the "sweet spot", main lens used.
1/196 and 1/846 tell me about very short exposure, so in-motion unsharpness (camera shake, moving subject) is very unlikely.
And because the telephoto lens has a smaller aperture of f/3.4 (and lenses with a higher curvature), less light reaches the sensor, thus exposure time is greatly increased, 1/196 s versus 1/846 s.
See why I asked for that data?
You'll see that the telephoto shot is all sharp (until you zoom in; lower sensor resolution plus digital zoom, today's modern pestilence), you can even see the structure of the green leaves, while the main camera shot has everything blurred except the flower's pistils.
That's just the way cameras work.
So enjoy your fine camera, it does a great work and does it right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Jeasus Christ i never used 50 mp sesnor i use the normal sensor for the red flower and also same sensor with pink flower... im changing so many phones every year and i can clearly understand what a foto needs! P40 pro with 122 version is less detailed on normal shots than with 112 , i need t use night mode on day light fotos to get some sharpness..
Also the foto you have posted there is no detailed at all i can taje same photo with my xiaomi mia 3 Stock camera apk... and i can get also much better shots withy GCAM on mia 3!

Wide angle camera is darker than normal camera

Hello to all,
Just got my OnePlus 8.
When checking the cameras, I noticed a significant difference between the normal and wide angle cameras.
The wide angle is much darker and sometimes seems to have problems focusing.
I have not found many threads on Google (and the few that I found mention blurriness, not darkness).
Does anyone else have this issue? Could it be a hardware issue?
Thanks for any advice.

So very strange. After a lot of trying last night, I wrote the post above.
This morning, I can't reproduce the issue. Both images look very similar in terms of lighting.
Il post back of three issue comes back or if I come to understand what happened in the first place.

It's normal due to hardware limitations. The wide angle has a much smaller aperture (very common in camera lenses and phone camera).
Smaller aperture means less light can be captured, think of it as your eyes
If you almost close your eyes (small aperture) what you see is darker.
That's why despite the same megapixel count etc, wide angle photos are darker and noisier, and if the software try to compensate , it needs a longer shutter speed (longer shooting time), longer shutter speeds means shakes and movements are captured, resulting in blurry photos, and since the wide angle has no OIS, it's even more likely to come out blurry if you aren't super still while shooting.
Hope this helped