I got a MTCD PX3 unit which I didn't like and returned. Then I got a PX5 and it's great. They both had the same issue with the rear view camera though, when the engine was running, the camera stops. I believe it's a pulse width modulation issue with the power. There was one cable I forgot to return with the PX3 and I had no idea what it was for, but it just clicked, I'm just not sure how to use it.
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red: "Reverse-In"
yellow: "Reverse+12v"
white: "Camera+"
black: "Camera-"
I'm not entirely sure how I'm supposed to wire it or what it is. On a photo of the wires on the website I got it it says "regulators relays" but no other info. Does it regulate the power coming from the rear lights so I can hook directly to it, or is it a relay and I still need to find a source of 12v? Seems all the power in the car would have the same PWM issue, no? So it would have to smooth out the power?
Has anyone else gotten one of these with their units? Know how to wire it?
I'm not sure of this configuration, but all the head units I have seen they have an RCA connector for video in, in your case it looks like you got two cables:
white - this should be the "live" cable ( center cable of the coaxial cable) and black, which should be the mesh cable around the coaxial cable ( which most probably is ground)
The way to test is to power your camera ( +12v) then feed the output to those two cables
To activate the head unit screen, you will need to feed +12 v to the red cable
If that works, and it doesn't work from the reverse light cable, probably is because the signal is pulsating, so you will need to "smooth" it. An easy way of doing that is with a diode and capacitor
If you are interested, send me a private message and I will send a diagram
javiermi said:
I'm not sure of this configuration, but all the head units I have seen they have an RCA connector for video in, in your case it looks like you got two cables:
white - this should be the "live" cable ( center cable of the coaxial cable) and black, which should be the mesh cable around the coaxial cable ( which most probably is ground)
The way to test is to power your camera ( +12v) then feed the output to those two cables
To activate the head unit screen, you will need to feed +12 v to the red cable
If that works, and it doesn't work from the reverse light cable, probably is because the signal is pulsating, so you will need to "smooth" it. An easy way of doing that is with a diode and capacitor
If you are interested, send me a private message and I will send a diagram
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, no, those cables aren't coming out of the camera, it's just to a little circuit board with some black shrink plastic covering it. The camera is normal, 1 RCA, 1 red, 1 black. These are all power or ground, just not sure which hooks to what.
Currently thinking red goes to reverse light ground, yellow goes to reverse light live, and black goes to camera black, white goes to camera red. That would be if it's a regulator to smooth the current and not a relay, but I'm not 100% on it.
OMG, I finally figured it out, it's labeled entirely wrong. I ended up simulating the circuit board and trying things till it worked.
Pictures of circuit board
Emulation
Pretty diagram
Final verdict:
white => power in from reverse lights
black => power in from reverse lights or smoother power source that is always on
yellow => to ground from reverse lights or car frame
red => power out to camera positive lead
Both white & black have capacitors on the line to smooth power. The capacitor on the white keeps the relay open for a few moments if there's fluctuation in power that would cause it to turn off.
White to power and yellow to ground switches the relay.
Red powers the camera, and ground for the camera can just go to the frame. Though I noticed on my camera it was grounded when the RCA was plugged in and didn't need the black wire connected (connected it anyway). Camera wouldn't even turn on actually without the ground from the RCA.
Related
I searched this site and PPC geeks for the answer and i was wondering if anyone knew what the wiring colors were. My other car adapter that i use broke so i am going to make another with this adapter instead of the multi adapter that has usb and the headset jack. However i want to be able to still add the mic in myself this will be wired directly into an aux in on my pioneer headunit. The other adapter has a loose jack and will only charge and won't put out audio with the multi adapter pluged in. It does play audio fine if the headset is plugged into the phone directly.
Here is my goal. wire it up to this adapter splitting the audio cables and running them into the aux in. Dismantle the stock headset wire only the mic portion up extend the wires and run it up by my drivers side visor. only problem is i don't have a way of testing what the speakers are vs the mic wires and or whats needed to be crossed for it to be detected as a headset. With just the adapter in the phone no headset hooked to the 2.5mm side audio and mic functions still come out of the internal speaker or speaker phone for music.
If i find a solution i think it could be made into a diy sticky for those who want custom hands free without all the fuss of expensive adapters as all thats required is some wire and minor tools minimal soldering and some heat shrink.
This adapter came with my sprint mogul.
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I got it all wired up and installed in my car the way I wanted to. It took some trial and error but this wire diagram from XDA http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=31649&d=1164664052 is correct, however on the mogul's adapter that comes with the phone the yellow wire is not hooked to anything on ether end its just in there it was not attached to the mini 2.5mm jack and it pulled straight out of the phone 11 pin end no loose wires or solder on ether end of the yellow wire just a clean cut.
Here is what i used to make it work.
White - Mic +
Yellow - was not hooked up to anything
Red - Ground L/R
Blue - Headset sense hooks into the red to turn headset mode on.
Green - Speaker +
Black - Speaker +
Ground/Shielding silver loose no coating - I hooked to the signal wire from the mic.
Mic Ground - red and blue wires.
As the stock headset has 3 wires for the mic. +,-,and S their colors are White - mic +
Copper - mic -
Blue - S
The push to answer button does not work on the headset mic but the mic does work. I think it has to so with the fact that i didn't hook up the other wires to the board going to the adapter. I ran out of wires and didn't have a long enough cable that had all the needed wires so i clipped all but the 3 i needed off the circuit board for the mic and ran a new longer 3 wire cable from the board to the adapter.
I have to get ready for a Christmas party in dc thats 2 hours away. I will post finished pictures and maybe a youtube video if the finished install once I get back to town.
Sound comes out clear thru my speakers and I was able to hold a conversation with the mic as a hands free in the car. The mic is mouned at the top of the drivers side a pillar and the wire runs down in behind that into the dash and comes out right by the phone mount.
Now I can leave my car charger hooked to the adapter and the headphone output is wired into the car stero so one connection to the phone and i have mic + audio out. Cost was just some of my free time and parts/wires i already had laying around. I did take extra time to be neat and soldered all the connections properly. This is as close to an aftermarket oem integrated system that i wanted.
Thanks to all that helped I will post the results later, for those interested.
Hey!
Many of you may know the issue that the Music Stops playing, when you slide the phone. I was tired of this and since nobody here posted a solution, I investigated a bit on that problem.
First Idea, it's a "feature" and you probably can turn it off in a Registry entry. But nope, the registry does not seem to have any key for this.
Second idea was the Jack itself. So I tried the official Earphones, and it did not stop. Looking at those I saw, that the jack got 4 pins.
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I'm sure all of you that are using, their own headphones got one with this Jack:
It works probably like this: If you press the button, Aux and GND are connected and the device knows, the button is pressed.
But if you use a 3pin Jack, Aux and GND is always connected, since there is no aux but GND only!
You can test it yourself: unplug your earphones play Music via speaker, plug in your 3pinJack -> the music stops (since the device thinks the button is pressed)
unplug and try the same thing, with a 4pinJack (like official HTC earphones) it the music will not pause when you plug it in.
The Device ignores the button press until it is released and pressed again, that's why it does not pause all the time. But when you slide, for some reason, the device thinks the button is pressed again. (probably for some hardware reasons, but idk)
Solution?
Here:
1. Use the orignal HTC Earphones
well, rumors say they got a bad sound quality.
2. You can use an Nokia headest
as well, my nokia headset got an 3,5input for a Jack with 3pins.
But with my earphones, I can clearly hear the more bad sound quality
(and you can't use the buttons as well, but i don't care about this)
Later I found out the bad quality is HTCs fault! They swapped the position of the AUX and the GND Pin, so that you can use the Nokia Headset only with lack of quality..
3. The MacGyver
It's easy and it works.
Take some duct tape and cut it small.. really small!
So small that it just covers the not available Aux pin (compare first and second image above). Please note that HTC swapped the position of Aux and GND on their Jack, so that you have to place the duct tape on the area which is labeled with GND on the picture at the top. See picture above. otherwise you will might notice a lack of quality..
Plug it in your Device and you are done.
Now the Aux pin is isolated and the device never thinks the button is pressed.
Unfortunately, the (at least my) duct tape does not stay in place, since the input is rather small and with duct tape the jack hardly fits in. But maybe you can do it better? If you don't replug all day long this could be your solution
4.The slaughter
/* No picture here */
Cut off, the Jack of your earphones, cut of the Jack of the official HTC earphones, and connect it. (don't cut the cable to short!)
Leave Aux of the 4pin Jack simply unconnected. (so it will never be pressed)
If you want you can simply strip the wires and twist the corresponding ones.
Advanced users might want to solder it (I recommend this).
When you are finished use some duct tape and you are done!
5. The better slaughter
You maybe got some real expensive earphones and don't want to cut off the Jack? Yeah me too!
The solution is easy, you build an converter.
Cut off the 4pin-jack of an earphone that got one (eg the official HTC earphones). Take an 3,5Jack input, solder everything, but keep the Aux one unconnected. Maybe a case or some duct tape and you are done!
Here is a quick view of how I build my converter:
1. I cut of the 4pin-jack of my old Nokia headset seen above.
2. I opend the remote part, with the 3,5input.
2.1 I unsoldered the 3,5input from the board.
3. I soldered the 4pin-jack directly on the input.
3.1 Since Nokia uses the regular order of Aux and GND I had to leave the clear one unconnected (this would usually be GND) and connected the white one (this would usually be Aux).
3.2 If you want to be sure, which color has to be connected to which pin, I recommend to use an Multimeter and check the pin outs.
3.3 Some cracks might want to add the an pause button on the converter: simply connect the button to the unconnected one and the other pin of the button to GND!
3.4 this will probably work with every 3,5input you might find it on cable extensions?
Well thats it!
Regards,
Daniel
PS:
Think before you cut!
Please Press thanks if it helped!
You're welcome to correct my grammar
Picture source: by my self and wikipedia.de
thanks for the writeup! ill give the tape a try
Hi,
I bought a UK Vodafone Smart Mini (Alcatel OT-V875 Mediatek MT6575) with no battery and no back - sold
as is - no history.
Batteries are kinda expensive for this phone (ALi014A 4-terminal), so I've been trying to see if it is a
working phone before I risk buying a battery.
If I plug in a charger, the notification led comes on solid blue, but pressing the POWER button
does nothing.
If I attach a charged Li-Ion 3.7 v 2-terminal battery (4.1 v measured) taken from another phone to the
phone's + and - contacts with clips and press+hold the POWER button, nothing happens. The blue led
stays off.
If I attach the phone to a PC via USB with no battery, the Mediatek preloader device appears
then disappears from the device manager. It does this every time I unplug and plug the phone
into the PC.
If I attach the phone to a PC via USB with just the 2 terminals connected to a battery, the
Mediatek preloader appears and disappears the first time, but if I unplug and plug the phone in again,
no USB devices are found. The blue led comes on as soon as I attach the USB lead and stays on
after I have unplugged it.
If I install the Mediatek preloader VCOM drivers, start SP Flash Tool in readback with this
[attachment 1]
readback map and connect the phone to the PC with USB, I get a complete download of the flash memory
- it takes about 40 minutes.
I have used bgcngm's mtk unpack tools in Cygwin to successfully unpack the BOOTIMG, RECOVERY and LOGO
images and they all look like Linux stuff, but I have no idea whether they are b0rked by
file misconfigurations within the packed image.
I have dumped the phone's cache space (0x3da4c000 to 0x40000000) and this is nearly all zeros
( compresses from 39534592B to 12055B ), so it looks like the last owner did a cache wipe before
selling it.
Here's how the other parts of the image look.
[attachment 2]
So my question is - does this phone _need_ a 4-terminal battery to boot ?
[SOLVED]
So I worked it out myself - this phone won't boot with 'ON'switch at all with just a 2-terminal battery. Reading datasheet of Mediatek and Ricoh PMIC chip I see the other 2 pins need to be connected with resistors - easy.
Now it boots.
Me too
melvaka said:
So I worked it out myself - this phone won't boot with 'ON'switch at all with just a 2-terminal battery. Reading datasheet of Mediatek and Ricoh PMIC chip I see the other 2 pins need to be connected with resistors - easy.
Now it boots.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I have the same issue and intend to use the phone as a security cam and so don't need battery power. If you could post the pins/resistor values that would be great!
10k to ground - pins from the pic on any auction site selling the right battery. 4th pin is not some crypto-authentication anti-counterfeit nonsense, despite what some sites claim - this is a cheeeeep phone !
Hi, I wanted to just double check the pins before hooking up the wires to my phone, as I don't want to kill my phone
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Assume pin1 is on the left and pin4 is on the right, I'm guessing this is how to wire it up:
Pin 1: 10k to Battery -ve
Pin 2: Battery -ve
Pin 3: 10k to Battery -ve
Pin 4: Battery +ve
Is this correct?
Finally where can I find the Ricoh PMIC chip datasheet? I have another phone (VF-675) which uses a similar battery and would like to power it also without the official battery which is TLi014A2 which is a the same size and capacity as the TLi014A1. Thanks
Pins - yes
PMIC data sheet from Ricoh
I see no-one hits the 'Thanks' button much in this forum.
Perfect, thanks, I found the button also, I'm new here I managed to power the phone from an 18650 and it works great, looks a little ugly, I cut up a SD to Micro SD card adaptor in order to press against the phones battery contacts.
I went thru the datasheet also, a lot of it was over my head, but I have a similar Mediatek phone (alcatel 4030x) which has similar problems with the battery swelling up so I think I'll try that with an 18650 as it seems to use the same PMIC.
So, I have been having a weird issue.
Everything works just fine on my tablet, with the exception of screen flicker as others has reported.
However, recently my s pen is not working right. Its not the pen, I have verified that my pen works fine on other note devices, and other s pens do not work on the tablet.
What happens is that it work only in small random spots and the input is completely off and never consistent.
The LCD works fine, touch input works fine, everything else works fine. I have done a master reset, to no avail.
The only thing I can find that is the issue, is the LCD cable connection to the PCB, not the motherboard. The spot where the cable connects below the battery.
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The top part of the connector is broken off. I do not know how this happened. I have opened up to check connectors before and never noticed this. It was only partially broken off but as I inspected it, the rest just came off easily.
Regardless of how it happened, I am wondering if this cable is responsible for also handling s pen input. If there is a join function.
This is the only connector with issues, and when I had it connected and pressed on it I heard the drop sound as if a touch or spen input was occurring, but that could have been coincidental.
As far as I know, the ribbon cable is one sided, and a missing top only causes issues with holding it in place. However, I could be mistaken here.
Does anyone know if the LCD cable/port is responsible for also handling spen input, or if there is a different connector/board/port I need to inspect that I may have missed?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
phoenixbennu said:
So, I have been having a weird issue.
Everything works just fine on my tablet, with the exception of screen flicker as others has reported.
However, recently my s pen is not working right. Its not the pen, I have verified that my pen works fine on other note devices, and other s pens do not work on the tablet.
What happens is that it work only in small random spots and the input is completely off and never consistent.
The LCD works fine, touch input works fine, everything else works fine. I have done a master reset, to no avail.
The only thing I can find that is the issue, is the LCD cable connection to the PCB, not the motherboard. The spot where the cable connects below the battery.
The top part of the connector is broken off. I do not know how this happened. I have opened up to check connectors before and never noticed this. It was only partially broken off but as I inspected it, the rest just came off easily.
Regardless of how it happened, I am wondering if this cable is responsible for also handling s pen input. If there is a join function.
This is the only connector with issues, and when I had it connected and pressed on it I heard the drop sound as if a touch or spen input was occurring, but that could have been coincidental.
As far as I know, the ribbon cable is one sided, and a missing top only causes issues with holding it in place. However, I could be mistaken here.
Does anyone know if the LCD cable/port is responsible for also handling spen input, or if there is a different connector/board/port I need to inspect that I may have missed?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
inside that connector there are spen control, touch screen, lcd and also pressure sensor so.....
Inviato dal mio LG-D802 utilizzando Tapatalk
I know the digitizer ribbon cable is located on the top left, and that is in tact. However, I can definitely assume that this broken connector is causing the trouble. The spen works just fine for hitting the back and tab button next to the home key, just nothing on the screen.
I am now wondering how to fix it. The actual digitizer and screen are fine, and I would hate to have to replace them just for a small damaged connector, and I assume it is just a PCB that can be changed out, but I cannot find the part listed anywhere, nor can I get into the back casing without damaging it. I would assume that to expose this PCB I would have to melt/grind off the nubs that hold together the inner framework.
Here is the method to test your S Pen, if it fails the test, you have to change the LCD but LCD and touchscreen are glued together as a set.
This is the way to get to Factory Mode using your calculator:
(+30012012732+
then
*#0*#
Wacom Test is the one for testing S Pen.
Use Back button to exit Factory Mode.
Charge to 100% and turned OFF, not standby... over night it went to below 0% (to the point where the charge bar on the screen was red and it took about 10 minutes of charging to make it start showing the green charging animation)
Then, when fully charged, I used it for a little app installing, some basic games, just farting about for two hours - and the battery went from 100% to 82% over that time.
How the hell does it lose 100%+ power when turned off but I can use it for two hours on 20% battery loss??? Time for a new battery, I guess?
It depends how u even charge it.
It matter that much? I just plug it into one of these:
RAVPower 4 Port USB Charger (1 Quick Charge 3.0 Port) Charging Station
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I think it's not an original battery anyway - I managed to get the back off with just fingernails under the edges.
I'll get a new battery and bung it in..
Update:
nah... I think the phone is faulty, somehow.
New battery - charged up 100%..
Phone off, left overnight, checked about 24 hours after charge - still 100%
Phone turned on, used a little until battery showed 92% then turned off again.
FOUR hours later, phone turned on and the battery showed 7%, FFS!!
Sony is becoming a watchword for "****e" in my book....
I think I'll have fun with the phone - take it for a drive and throw it under a road works roadroller... see how flat it can get!
Update:
Sadly, I couldn't find a road roller (dozens of road works... but no one actually doing any bloody work!!) -- so i got a Co-Op truck driver to drive over it, he was happy to, he'd had the exact same issues with his Z3 (small world).
I'd like to say it died a graceful death... well... actually... no, I wouldn't! I hope it died in agony!
"Bwaaa hahahaha!!!
Bloody evil battery sucking POS!!
The screen is interesting - it;s about 8 layers of different things..
There's a matrix layout - possibly the actual display panel itself..
A few layers of transparent stuff that looks like protective sleeving to stop abrasion.
A highly reflective layer - but in the middle.... and another one right at the back. Odd!
And a weird layer which refracts and magnifies the image - when I looked through it at my fingers, they were magnified AND offset to the left AND all wibbly.. I can't understand the point of that part...
Anyway, all dead now - the chips weren't damaged so I took it home and smashed them with a hammer.. Felt good... really good!
battery weird
Fluffbutt said:
Update:
Sadly, I couldn't find a road roller (dozens of road works... but no one actually doing any bloody work!!) -- so i got a Co-Op truck driver to drive over it, he was happy to, he'd had the exact same issues with his Z3 (small world).
I'd like to say it died a graceful death... well... actually... no, I wouldn't! I hope it died in agony!
"Bwaaa hahahaha!!!
Bloody evil battery sucking POS!!
The screen is interesting - it;s about 8 layers of different things..
There's a matrix layout - possibly the actual display panel itself..
A few layers of transparent stuff that looks like protective sleeving to stop abrasion.
A highly reflective layer - but in the middle.... and another one right at the back. Odd!
And a weird layer which refracts and magnifies the image - when I looked through it at my fingers, they were magnified AND offset to the left AND all wibbly.. I can't understand the point of that part...
Anyway, all dead now - the chips weren't damaged so I took it home and smashed them with a hammer.. Felt good... really good!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sme problem replaced the battery and now volume button does work....arrrrrrrrrrr
June - that might have been done when the back was prised off - the volumes are near the edge where you have to work the back plate off.
If you can still get the back off - try this: back off, turn phone on, listen to music (so you can monitor volume) then gently wriggle the button as you press it.
You might just have broken a teeny little solder joint between the button and the wires.