Hey!
Many of you may know the issue that the Music Stops playing, when you slide the phone. I was tired of this and since nobody here posted a solution, I investigated a bit on that problem.
First Idea, it's a "feature" and you probably can turn it off in a Registry entry. But nope, the registry does not seem to have any key for this.
Second idea was the Jack itself. So I tried the official Earphones, and it did not stop. Looking at those I saw, that the jack got 4 pins.
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I'm sure all of you that are using, their own headphones got one with this Jack:
It works probably like this: If you press the button, Aux and GND are connected and the device knows, the button is pressed.
But if you use a 3pin Jack, Aux and GND is always connected, since there is no aux but GND only!
You can test it yourself: unplug your earphones play Music via speaker, plug in your 3pinJack -> the music stops (since the device thinks the button is pressed)
unplug and try the same thing, with a 4pinJack (like official HTC earphones) it the music will not pause when you plug it in.
The Device ignores the button press until it is released and pressed again, that's why it does not pause all the time. But when you slide, for some reason, the device thinks the button is pressed again. (probably for some hardware reasons, but idk)
Solution?
Here:
1. Use the orignal HTC Earphones
well, rumors say they got a bad sound quality.
2. You can use an Nokia headest
as well, my nokia headset got an 3,5input for a Jack with 3pins.
But with my earphones, I can clearly hear the more bad sound quality
(and you can't use the buttons as well, but i don't care about this)
Later I found out the bad quality is HTCs fault! They swapped the position of the AUX and the GND Pin, so that you can use the Nokia Headset only with lack of quality..
3. The MacGyver
It's easy and it works.
Take some duct tape and cut it small.. really small!
So small that it just covers the not available Aux pin (compare first and second image above). Please note that HTC swapped the position of Aux and GND on their Jack, so that you have to place the duct tape on the area which is labeled with GND on the picture at the top. See picture above. otherwise you will might notice a lack of quality..
Plug it in your Device and you are done.
Now the Aux pin is isolated and the device never thinks the button is pressed.
Unfortunately, the (at least my) duct tape does not stay in place, since the input is rather small and with duct tape the jack hardly fits in. But maybe you can do it better? If you don't replug all day long this could be your solution
4.The slaughter
/* No picture here */
Cut off, the Jack of your earphones, cut of the Jack of the official HTC earphones, and connect it. (don't cut the cable to short!)
Leave Aux of the 4pin Jack simply unconnected. (so it will never be pressed)
If you want you can simply strip the wires and twist the corresponding ones.
Advanced users might want to solder it (I recommend this).
When you are finished use some duct tape and you are done!
5. The better slaughter
You maybe got some real expensive earphones and don't want to cut off the Jack? Yeah me too!
The solution is easy, you build an converter.
Cut off the 4pin-jack of an earphone that got one (eg the official HTC earphones). Take an 3,5Jack input, solder everything, but keep the Aux one unconnected. Maybe a case or some duct tape and you are done!
Here is a quick view of how I build my converter:
1. I cut of the 4pin-jack of my old Nokia headset seen above.
2. I opend the remote part, with the 3,5input.
2.1 I unsoldered the 3,5input from the board.
3. I soldered the 4pin-jack directly on the input.
3.1 Since Nokia uses the regular order of Aux and GND I had to leave the clear one unconnected (this would usually be GND) and connected the white one (this would usually be Aux).
3.2 If you want to be sure, which color has to be connected to which pin, I recommend to use an Multimeter and check the pin outs.
3.3 Some cracks might want to add the an pause button on the converter: simply connect the button to the unconnected one and the other pin of the button to GND!
3.4 this will probably work with every 3,5input you might find it on cable extensions?
Well thats it!
Regards,
Daniel
PS:
Think before you cut!
Please Press thanks if it helped!
You're welcome to correct my grammar
Picture source: by my self and wikipedia.de
thanks for the writeup! ill give the tape a try
Related
After read some posts in here I decided to buy a silicon case.
I bought a silicon case with unbreakable screen cover from this website:
http://pdaden.com/shop/catalog/
product_16662_Soft_Jacket_Set_for_
O2_XDAII_Qtek_2020_with_unbreakable_screen_cover_cat_473.html
(please remove those new line before paste URL on your address bar)
I spend $ 26.95 = 14.24 pounds for it.
It was shipped from Hong Kong and took over two weeks to london.
Almost everything is as good as I expected:
I chose black colour because looks smaller;
I can put it into my pocket now, which was impossible with leather case;
Comfort feeling in hand;
Unbrakable screen cover is nice and clear maybe it reduced reflection.
Both Belt Clip and Belt clip button can be removed so that it has a smooth back;
Provided a nice hand strap but I would never use it;
It has many holes for SD card slot, sound volume slider, head phone socket, reset 'button', camera and camera mirror, antenna connector and data cable connector.
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However I got problems...
After happiness is headache.
The first issue is how to operate the XDA2 without touching screen.
I set record button to start menu then I can use joystick to load a program.
Today can also be selected by joystick in WM2003SE but not for WM2003.
Installed a software AltTab so I can use red phone button to close window.
I also installed the Contacts Button so I can use joystick to select contact items and redefine joystick in phone.
however I cannot dial a number which is not in contacts without opening screen cover.
THE BIGGEST PROBLEM IS, joystick does not properly work any more!
The manufacture claim that the case has 'Accur-Touch keypad cover'. This feature perfectly works with other buttons but joystick. Because joystick is not a button. I cannot use arrow anymore. Under silicon cover, pressing four arrow keys becomes pressing down button. This is a really bad design.
Thank mamaich and Des for developed tools to hack volume slider. So I don't have to use joystick any more. But this still very inconvenient.
The best solution may be cutting anonther hole on it.
The second issue is cannot be placed on cradle.
Because silicon cover is thick and sticky.
The hole for connector only can be used for recharging.
I hope I could have a data cable not a cradle.
Other solution is using bluetooth ActiveSync.
I am still looking for a perfect bluetooth stack for XDA2.
So currently I have to remove unbreakable cover and pull XDA2 out.
I worry about if I do this too many times the flexiable cover will be loose.
i have the same case
about the actionbutten then it's good enough for my needs
not goog enough to play tetris or something but good enough for me
when i want to call or mess with programs i open the lid
i have no problems with the minijack connector when using the case
i dont use the cradle unless i have to do a full restore and bluetooth is too slow for that
i use the org ms bluetooth stack along with bluetooth tools and it's working perfectly for sync with my pc
i'm happy enough with it
i sync with BT and charge with the connector on the cable
i open when i need to do screen operations
flywhc said:
The second issue is cannot be placed on cradle.
Because silicon cover is thick and sticky.
The hole for connector only can be used for recharging.
I hope I could have a data cable not a cradle.
Other solution is using bluetooth ActiveSync.
I am still looking for a perfect bluetooth stack for XDA2.
So currently I have to remove unbreakable cover and pull XDA2 out.
I worry about if I do this too many times the flexiable cover will be loose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why not buy a xda2s cradle as its bigger than the xda2. i can get you a price if you want PM me
unfortunately the silicon case easily stick a dust on it...but its washable...
no probs with the sync...just buy the usb sync cable from the same store...
my wife love to used with it... :lol: but i love my clear case and the innopocket hard case...
btw i just cut the sync connector cover...its annoying while inserting the sync cable...and i just put some not too expensive screen protector to the unbreakable cover...
I just order one, and I am thinking tu cut the rear part to use it with my backpack....
Yes!!!!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?p=239589#239589
http://www.todopocketpc.com/foro/showthread.php?t=93783
Does the wired remote controller RC E100 from HTC fit in the Diamond as well?
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horstborsch said:
Does the wired remote controller RC E100 from HTC fit in the Diamond as well?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess it does, same connector. Give it a try.
Is working perfectly with tf3d and fm receiver
Can you use your own headphones with this?
http://www.expansys.com/d.aspx?i=150195
if you check the description and a user comment says you can 3.5 mm
Yes you can!
Key Features
- The E100 includes 3.5mm stereo earphones or use your own!
Nice to know that this is working, can anyone post some real pics, so I can get an impression of the real size and colour!
who can i buy the RC E100 (will this be sold separately as an accessory)?!
Yes you can, check HTC homepage or use google.
Can anyone try if this works with the diamond as well? Especially the buttons on the control device.
Tested and approved.
I bought it for my Trinity and now it works perfectly for my diamond.
Works as an antenna for the FM. All controls working nativly with the new TouchFlo3D.
perfectly, thank you for your confirmation!
Gregz78 said:
Tested and approved.
I bought it for my Trinity and now it works perfectly for my diamond.
Works as an antenna for the FM. All controls working nativly with the new TouchFlo3D.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I read somewhere in the net, that you might have problems with some of the HTC devices. Can you please confirm, that:
a) with this remote attached, the screen turns off (save battery time)
- I read, this is not the case
b) the screen will always turn on as soon you press any key (even in you pocket)
c) works perfectly with the Diamond
Thanks in advance
RC E100 plugged without any driver or software added - screen turned off
- by pressing Play, it plays the music and the screen stays turned off
- by pressing next-previous, it changes the song and the screen stays turned off
- by controlling the volume (buttons at the bottom) it changes Volume and the screen stays turned off
the only buttons that turns on the screen are the one for phone calls.
Tested right now with my Diamond
How about the sound quality, is it better than the ones that come in the box?
I had a P1i before, and I planning to buy the RC E100 and use the intra speakers from the hpm-75:
Has anyone tried the same? Do you think I'll get the same sound quality as my SE phone, which was much better?
I plugged a basic Sony headset. I didn't try yet the one in the box.
Peio64 ? With a name like that, you are from Euskadi ?
(edited sry double post)
Haha yes, I probably have the only diamond in the region
So you use your sony headset with an adaptor, can you compare with the crappy htc one?
Other question: I found the volume really too loud, I usually listen to music at work, and even with 1 volume bar (hard to set with the finger by the way), I think it's too strong. Does the minimal volume change with other handsets?
Peio64 said:
So you use your sony headset with an adaptor, can you compare with the crappy htc one?
Other question: I found the volume really too loud, I usually listen to music at work, and even with 1 volume bar (hard to set with the finger by the way), I think it's too strong. Does the minimal volume change with other handsets?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please concretize what you mean by "crappy htc"? I have a SE and the same headset as Peio64. And. I am quite happy with it. Is the htc worse?
When I say "crappy" I mean
- no bass
- bad "isolation" (everyone around can hear what you're listening)
It's about the headset that comes in the box, don't know about the RC E100, anyway I will use the RCE100 remote with the HPM-75 intras, the lenght of the wire will be perfect
Has anyone has tried the RC E100 with a hermes?
What other devices (besides the Tytyn II and Diamond) can confirm?
Does anyone know the difference between the two (RC E100 and RC W100)?
I tried the RC W100 with my hermes ( with a few different ROMs) with no luck...
Is it true you can only control audio manager and WMP?
Can anyone look over the "driver cab" to see if other players might be possible?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Guys,
Can someone, anyone, please confirm the difference between using the supplied headphones that come with the HRC diamond which are
a) bass-less (and I already know about the Audio booster bug - I mean they still dont have much bass when you have worked around that bug)
b) not isolated well (as pointed out above)
and compare with using a decent set of 3.5mm headphones that are connected with the RC E100 or with one of those USB to 3.5mm adapters that you can get from ebay.
Does better headphones = lots more bass? The supplied headphones just don't seem to push out much but I wonder how much of a role the actual diamond plays in this....
Thanks in advance to anyone who can confirm this.
Salada
I searched this site and PPC geeks for the answer and i was wondering if anyone knew what the wiring colors were. My other car adapter that i use broke so i am going to make another with this adapter instead of the multi adapter that has usb and the headset jack. However i want to be able to still add the mic in myself this will be wired directly into an aux in on my pioneer headunit. The other adapter has a loose jack and will only charge and won't put out audio with the multi adapter pluged in. It does play audio fine if the headset is plugged into the phone directly.
Here is my goal. wire it up to this adapter splitting the audio cables and running them into the aux in. Dismantle the stock headset wire only the mic portion up extend the wires and run it up by my drivers side visor. only problem is i don't have a way of testing what the speakers are vs the mic wires and or whats needed to be crossed for it to be detected as a headset. With just the adapter in the phone no headset hooked to the 2.5mm side audio and mic functions still come out of the internal speaker or speaker phone for music.
If i find a solution i think it could be made into a diy sticky for those who want custom hands free without all the fuss of expensive adapters as all thats required is some wire and minor tools minimal soldering and some heat shrink.
This adapter came with my sprint mogul.
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I got it all wired up and installed in my car the way I wanted to. It took some trial and error but this wire diagram from XDA http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=31649&d=1164664052 is correct, however on the mogul's adapter that comes with the phone the yellow wire is not hooked to anything on ether end its just in there it was not attached to the mini 2.5mm jack and it pulled straight out of the phone 11 pin end no loose wires or solder on ether end of the yellow wire just a clean cut.
Here is what i used to make it work.
White - Mic +
Yellow - was not hooked up to anything
Red - Ground L/R
Blue - Headset sense hooks into the red to turn headset mode on.
Green - Speaker +
Black - Speaker +
Ground/Shielding silver loose no coating - I hooked to the signal wire from the mic.
Mic Ground - red and blue wires.
As the stock headset has 3 wires for the mic. +,-,and S their colors are White - mic +
Copper - mic -
Blue - S
The push to answer button does not work on the headset mic but the mic does work. I think it has to so with the fact that i didn't hook up the other wires to the board going to the adapter. I ran out of wires and didn't have a long enough cable that had all the needed wires so i clipped all but the 3 i needed off the circuit board for the mic and ran a new longer 3 wire cable from the board to the adapter.
I have to get ready for a Christmas party in dc thats 2 hours away. I will post finished pictures and maybe a youtube video if the finished install once I get back to town.
Sound comes out clear thru my speakers and I was able to hold a conversation with the mic as a hands free in the car. The mic is mouned at the top of the drivers side a pillar and the wire runs down in behind that into the dash and comes out right by the phone mount.
Now I can leave my car charger hooked to the adapter and the headphone output is wired into the car stero so one connection to the phone and i have mic + audio out. Cost was just some of my free time and parts/wires i already had laying around. I did take extra time to be neat and soldered all the connections properly. This is as close to an aftermarket oem integrated system that i wanted.
Thanks to all that helped I will post the results later, for those interested.
If i use the 3.5mm headphone breakout cable with headphones, i hear music fine, if i plug a 3.5mm lead that goes to my stereo, nothing is output, if i play with the 3.5mm jack, i can maybe hear music for a second before the music app closes and again no music is output except internal speaker.
Does anyone know the answer to this?
its something to do with the output resisitance. we need to change it. there was some development/research into this a while back.
(InsertNameHere) said:
If i use the 3.5mm headphone breakout cable with headphones, i hear music fine, if i plug a 3.5mm lead that goes to my stereo, nothing is output, if i play with the 3.5mm jack, i can maybe hear music for a second before the music app closes and again no music is output except internal speaker.
Does anyone know the answer to this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The answers are a bit scattered across several threads, but if you have a look at Post #7 and onwards in this one is a good start. There are also some photos of made up leads showing how to address.
In essence Oly's comment is correct, but the nub of the issue comes down to the fact that the uUSB port is not just a hard-wired audio output in the manner of a traditional 3.5mm socket. The same contacts are used for multiple functions depending on the resistance presented to the sense contact. That causes the device to change mode and then channel data or audio or go into charging mode, etc.
I can't instantly give you all the links, but if you search on the TG forum for 'audio' and my username, you will find several further references. One in particular on Brighthand gives details about connecting an external hard drive successfully.
Hope that helps,
Regards,
Kevin
Audio Output to amplifier
Here
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=936562&highlight=audio+output
and here, as kevinpwhite say, was the first thread facing this problem
http://www.modaco.com/content/toshiba-tg01-tg01-modaco-com/298887/headphone-amplified-sound-output/
Below, my own experience "tuning" a couple of PHILIPS portable amplified speakers to use with TG01 soldering a couple of 470 Ohm resistors:
1)between input left cable and ground cable
2)between input right cable and ground cable as well.
This doesn't affect to the sound at all and you can use any other sound source without problems.
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and
Hope that helps you
I bought this samsung omnia adapter from ebay 6 months ago for 7pounds and is working fine even with an audio amplifier after pressing button. Is very good quality.
djtonka said:
I bought this samsung omnia adapter from ebay 6 months ago for 7pounds and is working fine even with an audio amplifier after pressing button. Is very good quality.
View attachment 574357
View attachment 574358
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you link to the product?
thanks
Some of this looks like my but much cheeper...?
Microphone does not work anyway.
shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=Samsung+omnia+audio+adapter+&_trksid=p5197.c0.m627
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
djtonka said:
Some of this looks like my but much cheeper...?
Microphone does not work anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found it, its the official i8000 omnia ii headset
djtonka said:
I bought this samsung omnia adapter from ebay 6 months ago for 7pounds and is working fine even with an audio amplifier after pressing button. Is very good quality.
View attachment 574357
View attachment 574358
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats the exact same one i have!!! Check out my post!! I got that from my local marketplace town for £7 which is kind of a rip off!
olyloh6696 said:
Thats the exact same one i have!!! Check out my post!! I got that from my local marketplace town for £7 which is kind of a rip off!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good news!, and the 90º shape it's cool!! I wonder why the microphone doesn't work......
Pere said:
Good news!, and the 90º shape it's cool!! I wonder why the microphone doesn't work......
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my microphone works
but the physical button to pick up phone calls does not work
I got a MTCD PX3 unit which I didn't like and returned. Then I got a PX5 and it's great. They both had the same issue with the rear view camera though, when the engine was running, the camera stops. I believe it's a pulse width modulation issue with the power. There was one cable I forgot to return with the PX3 and I had no idea what it was for, but it just clicked, I'm just not sure how to use it.
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red: "Reverse-In"
yellow: "Reverse+12v"
white: "Camera+"
black: "Camera-"
I'm not entirely sure how I'm supposed to wire it or what it is. On a photo of the wires on the website I got it it says "regulators relays" but no other info. Does it regulate the power coming from the rear lights so I can hook directly to it, or is it a relay and I still need to find a source of 12v? Seems all the power in the car would have the same PWM issue, no? So it would have to smooth out the power?
Has anyone else gotten one of these with their units? Know how to wire it?
I'm not sure of this configuration, but all the head units I have seen they have an RCA connector for video in, in your case it looks like you got two cables:
white - this should be the "live" cable ( center cable of the coaxial cable) and black, which should be the mesh cable around the coaxial cable ( which most probably is ground)
The way to test is to power your camera ( +12v) then feed the output to those two cables
To activate the head unit screen, you will need to feed +12 v to the red cable
If that works, and it doesn't work from the reverse light cable, probably is because the signal is pulsating, so you will need to "smooth" it. An easy way of doing that is with a diode and capacitor
If you are interested, send me a private message and I will send a diagram
javiermi said:
I'm not sure of this configuration, but all the head units I have seen they have an RCA connector for video in, in your case it looks like you got two cables:
white - this should be the "live" cable ( center cable of the coaxial cable) and black, which should be the mesh cable around the coaxial cable ( which most probably is ground)
The way to test is to power your camera ( +12v) then feed the output to those two cables
To activate the head unit screen, you will need to feed +12 v to the red cable
If that works, and it doesn't work from the reverse light cable, probably is because the signal is pulsating, so you will need to "smooth" it. An easy way of doing that is with a diode and capacitor
If you are interested, send me a private message and I will send a diagram
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, no, those cables aren't coming out of the camera, it's just to a little circuit board with some black shrink plastic covering it. The camera is normal, 1 RCA, 1 red, 1 black. These are all power or ground, just not sure which hooks to what.
Currently thinking red goes to reverse light ground, yellow goes to reverse light live, and black goes to camera black, white goes to camera red. That would be if it's a regulator to smooth the current and not a relay, but I'm not 100% on it.
OMG, I finally figured it out, it's labeled entirely wrong. I ended up simulating the circuit board and trying things till it worked.
Pictures of circuit board
Emulation
Pretty diagram
Final verdict:
white => power in from reverse lights
black => power in from reverse lights or smoother power source that is always on
yellow => to ground from reverse lights or car frame
red => power out to camera positive lead
Both white & black have capacitors on the line to smooth power. The capacitor on the white keeps the relay open for a few moments if there's fluctuation in power that would cause it to turn off.
White to power and yellow to ground switches the relay.
Red powers the camera, and ground for the camera can just go to the frame. Though I noticed on my camera it was grounded when the RCA was plugged in and didn't need the black wire connected (connected it anyway). Camera wouldn't even turn on actually without the ground from the RCA.