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Audio out

If i use the 3.5mm headphone breakout cable with headphones, i hear music fine, if i plug a 3.5mm lead that goes to my stereo, nothing is output, if i play with the 3.5mm jack, i can maybe hear music for a second before the music app closes and again no music is output except internal speaker.
Does anyone know the answer to this?

its something to do with the output resisitance. we need to change it. there was some development/research into this a while back.

(InsertNameHere) said:
If i use the 3.5mm headphone breakout cable with headphones, i hear music fine, if i plug a 3.5mm lead that goes to my stereo, nothing is output, if i play with the 3.5mm jack, i can maybe hear music for a second before the music app closes and again no music is output except internal speaker.
Does anyone know the answer to this?
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Click to collapse
The answers are a bit scattered across several threads, but if you have a look at Post #7 and onwards in this one is a good start. There are also some photos of made up leads showing how to address.
In essence Oly's comment is correct, but the nub of the issue comes down to the fact that the uUSB port is not just a hard-wired audio output in the manner of a traditional 3.5mm socket. The same contacts are used for multiple functions depending on the resistance presented to the sense contact. That causes the device to change mode and then channel data or audio or go into charging mode, etc.
I can't instantly give you all the links, but if you search on the TG forum for 'audio' and my username, you will find several further references. One in particular on Brighthand gives details about connecting an external hard drive successfully.
Hope that helps,
Regards,
Kevin

Audio Output to amplifier
Here
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=936562&highlight=audio+output
and here, as kevinpwhite say, was the first thread facing this problem
http://www.modaco.com/content/toshiba-tg01-tg01-modaco-com/298887/headphone-amplified-sound-output/
Below, my own experience "tuning" a couple of PHILIPS portable amplified speakers to use with TG01 soldering a couple of 470 Ohm resistors:
1)between input left cable and ground cable
2)between input right cable and ground cable as well.
This doesn't affect to the sound at all and you can use any other sound source without problems.
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and
Hope that helps you

I bought this samsung omnia adapter from ebay 6 months ago for 7pounds and is working fine even with an audio amplifier after pressing button. Is very good quality.

djtonka said:
I bought this samsung omnia adapter from ebay 6 months ago for 7pounds and is working fine even with an audio amplifier after pressing button. Is very good quality.
View attachment 574357
View attachment 574358
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Can you link to the product?
thanks

Some of this looks like my but much cheeper...?
Microphone does not work anyway.
shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=Samsung+omnia+audio+adapter+&_trksid=p5197.c0.m627
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

djtonka said:
Some of this looks like my but much cheeper...?
Microphone does not work anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found it, its the official i8000 omnia ii headset

djtonka said:
I bought this samsung omnia adapter from ebay 6 months ago for 7pounds and is working fine even with an audio amplifier after pressing button. Is very good quality.
View attachment 574357
View attachment 574358
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Thats the exact same one i have!!! Check out my post!! I got that from my local marketplace town for £7 which is kind of a rip off!

olyloh6696 said:
Thats the exact same one i have!!! Check out my post!! I got that from my local marketplace town for £7 which is kind of a rip off!
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Click to collapse
Good news!, and the 90º shape it's cool!! I wonder why the microphone doesn't work......

Pere said:
Good news!, and the 90º shape it's cool!! I wonder why the microphone doesn't work......
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Click to collapse
my microphone works
but the physical button to pick up phone calls does not work

[Q] Play the infuse through Car stereo?

So, I have this cig lighter fm transmitter that takes both USB sticks, or 2.5mm input.
this question is for my GF, she enjoys listening to books on tape and I would like to set this thing up for her to use, problem, the infuse has a 3.5mm plug. If i use the phone as a mass storage, it would play songs via the Play buttons and what not, but these are 1.5 hour long tracks sometimes and it does not auto save where you last were. any ideas? The ideal situation would be to use the USB to charge the phone while using some kind of 3.5mm Male to 2.5mm male plug into the infuse phone and have her use her phone to pause, save and play the files. Any ideas?
This is a newer version of what I have, but alot of the same functionality, i can put a usb drive in and play skip and all that fun stuff.
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maybe you want this? http://www.google.com/products/cata...1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=14042111030896786112# i dont think they make cables with 3.5 on one end, 2.5 on the other but just get the addapter for one end
edit: think i found what you want " Sennheiser 2.5mm Male to 3.5mm Male Audio Cable " (keep in mind all i did to find such a mythical product was a simple google search which i do believe can be done by anybody capable of posting on a fourm) link - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/665652-REG/Sennheiser_531406_2_5mm_Male_to_3_5mm.html

I have one of these nifty little adapters as I had an old phone with a 2.5 mm plugin. They work VERY well and are relatively short when attached to a longer cable. I'd recommend it if you decide it'll solve your issue.
Sent from my A501 using xda premium

Tomdg07 said:
(keep in mind all i did to find such a mythical product was a simple google search which i do believe can be done by anybody capable of posting on a fourm)
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Click to collapse
Thank you very much for the input and usable links. Not to risk coming off as unappreciative, I should clarify, my question wasn't so much where can I get this equipment I knew the 3.5 - 2.5 existed. It was more along the lines of what is the setup you'd recommend. I suggested in my mind a good or decent setup but was hoping to get ideas if people know of a better way (i.e. some cool feature of the phone im not aware of that lets yo unplug the usb into your phone and then control the radio or transmitter via the phone display).

Are you SURE that thing has a 2.5mm input?
2.5mm stereo inputs are INCREDIBLY rare. As in this would be the first time I've ever seen such a thing.
2.5mm stereo outputs are a lot more common thanks to phones and the fact that it's the standard size for wired headsets.

Entropy512 said:
Are you SURE that thing has a 2.5mm input?
2.5mm stereo inputs are INCREDIBLY rare. As in this would be the first time I've ever seen such a thing.
2.5mm stereo outputs are a lot more common thanks to phones and the fact that it's the standard size for wired headsets.
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all i know is that the Line out on the phone is 3.5 and I had a 3.5 to 3.5 Male - Male plug that was to large. I may be incorrect but im using process of elimination with a limited scope of knowledge, I dont know of any other plug besides the 2.5 and the 3.5 as far as the headphone style plugs go.

use bluetooth to transmit is a lot easier and clean.

pretiger said:
use bluetooth to transmit is a lot easier and clean.
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Bingo!! I use my Infuse through my Sony Xplod MTX-3000(?) and it ROCKS! handsfree kicks in when calls come in pausing music/audio of any kind...then resumes when call is disconnected. Another great App I bought for this is PowerAMP....it's got a setting to auto-resume playback when in range so when I start car (phone in pocket) the music starts playing where it left off the previous day (or whenever I was in the car last) I LOVE that feature...don't need to turn on the app or anything, it just "knows"
+1 to Bluetooth suggestion!

^^
your nick reminds me of Urban Dance Squad for some reason lol

Thanks for the responses, I think adding Bluetooth to the stereo or getting a whole new stereo might not be a suitable suggestion at this point (unless its not faux pas to get her an anniversary/birthday present at the same time when they are 2 months apart ).

New car also works.

For sure! A new car is the obvious choice.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using xda premium

So, an update!!
I am getting her a SD/USB/Aux Input (3.5mm) car stereo for our anniversary. I have been reading some forums that talk of plugging the phone into the stereo Via USB, then "Mounting the SD" and playing the files that way after doing some sort of debug mode.
Anyone ever tried this? apparently the stereo would read music off the SD loaded in the phone, or some said that you can control it Via the phone controls.
No BT unfortunately
Here is the thread i am referencing, it is another forum sorry if this is against the rules.
http://androidforums.com/evo-4g-tips-tricks/92867-there-way-play-music-through-usb-2.html

if you already have a 3.5 AUX why are you trying to mount the SD card. all you have to do is just play it through your music player.

Optimus-Prime said:
if you already have a 3.5 AUX why are you trying to mount the SD card. all you have to do is just play it through your music player.
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Three little words: Steering Wheel Control. Can get that with a headunit that reads the SD directly.

LinuxBozo said:
Three little words: Steering Wheel Control. Can get that with a headunit that reads the SD directly.
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Click to collapse
Most steering wheel controls dont work with after-market headunits.
edit: however if they do still work, they wont with a 3.5mm aux input.

Tomdg07 said:
Most steering wheel controls dont work with after-market headunits.
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You need to get out more or get a new installer place. Most DO with a simple PAC controller (http://www.pac-audio.com/SWI/)

meh, i have a bluetooth... and it wont stream... but it does with my HD2... whatever.

id like to minimize the wires if possible.. just run the audio to the radio + get a charge from it. Plus I hear you tend to get better sound from USB rather than the 3.5.

LinuxBozo said:
You need to get out more or get a new installer place. Most DO with a simple PAC controller (http://www.pac-audio.com/SWI/)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Meh... I haven't messed with car audio in the last 2 years maybe stuff has changed, didn't check out the source but ill take your word for it (the buttons on my current cars wheels are only for cruise control so I have no current concern)
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using xda premium

[TuT] use every ear-/headphone without slide'n'pause

Hey!
Many of you may know the issue that the Music Stops playing, when you slide the phone. I was tired of this and since nobody here posted a solution, I investigated a bit on that problem.
First Idea, it's a "feature" and you probably can turn it off in a Registry entry. But nope, the registry does not seem to have any key for this.
Second idea was the Jack itself. So I tried the official Earphones, and it did not stop. Looking at those I saw, that the jack got 4 pins.
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I'm sure all of you that are using, their own headphones got one with this Jack:
It works probably like this: If you press the button, Aux and GND are connected and the device knows, the button is pressed.
But if you use a 3pin Jack, Aux and GND is always connected, since there is no aux but GND only!
You can test it yourself: unplug your earphones play Music via speaker, plug in your 3pinJack -> the music stops (since the device thinks the button is pressed)
unplug and try the same thing, with a 4pinJack (like official HTC earphones) it the music will not pause when you plug it in.
The Device ignores the button press until it is released and pressed again, that's why it does not pause all the time. But when you slide, for some reason, the device thinks the button is pressed again. (probably for some hardware reasons, but idk)
Solution?
Here:
1. Use the orignal HTC Earphones
well, rumors say they got a bad sound quality.
2. You can use an Nokia headest
as well, my nokia headset got an 3,5input for a Jack with 3pins.
But with my earphones, I can clearly hear the more bad sound quality
(and you can't use the buttons as well, but i don't care about this)
Later I found out the bad quality is HTCs fault! They swapped the position of the AUX and the GND Pin, so that you can use the Nokia Headset only with lack of quality..
3. The MacGyver
It's easy and it works.
Take some duct tape and cut it small.. really small!
So small that it just covers the not available Aux pin (compare first and second image above). Please note that HTC swapped the position of Aux and GND on their Jack, so that you have to place the duct tape on the area which is labeled with GND on the picture at the top. See picture above. otherwise you will might notice a lack of quality..
Plug it in your Device and you are done.
Now the Aux pin is isolated and the device never thinks the button is pressed.
Unfortunately, the (at least my) duct tape does not stay in place, since the input is rather small and with duct tape the jack hardly fits in. But maybe you can do it better? If you don't replug all day long this could be your solution
4.The slaughter
/* No picture here */
Cut off, the Jack of your earphones, cut of the Jack of the official HTC earphones, and connect it. (don't cut the cable to short!)
Leave Aux of the 4pin Jack simply unconnected. (so it will never be pressed)
If you want you can simply strip the wires and twist the corresponding ones.
Advanced users might want to solder it (I recommend this).
When you are finished use some duct tape and you are done!
5. The better slaughter
You maybe got some real expensive earphones and don't want to cut off the Jack? Yeah me too!
The solution is easy, you build an converter.
Cut off the 4pin-jack of an earphone that got one (eg the official HTC earphones). Take an 3,5Jack input, solder everything, but keep the Aux one unconnected. Maybe a case or some duct tape and you are done!
Here is a quick view of how I build my converter:
1. I cut of the 4pin-jack of my old Nokia headset seen above.
2. I opend the remote part, with the 3,5input.
2.1 I unsoldered the 3,5input from the board.
3. I soldered the 4pin-jack directly on the input.
3.1 Since Nokia uses the regular order of Aux and GND I had to leave the clear one unconnected (this would usually be GND) and connected the white one (this would usually be Aux).
3.2 If you want to be sure, which color has to be connected to which pin, I recommend to use an Multimeter and check the pin outs.
3.3 Some cracks might want to add the an pause button on the converter: simply connect the button to the unconnected one and the other pin of the button to GND!
3.4 this will probably work with every 3,5input you might find it on cable extensions?
Well thats it!
Regards,
Daniel
PS:
Think before you cut!
Please Press thanks if it helped!
You're welcome to correct my grammar
Picture source: by my self and wikipedia.de

thanks for the writeup! ill give the tape a try

reverse camera issue

I got a MTCD PX3 unit which I didn't like and returned. Then I got a PX5 and it's great. They both had the same issue with the rear view camera though, when the engine was running, the camera stops. I believe it's a pulse width modulation issue with the power. There was one cable I forgot to return with the PX3 and I had no idea what it was for, but it just clicked, I'm just not sure how to use it.
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red: "Reverse-In"
yellow: "Reverse+12v"
white: "Camera+"
black: "Camera-"
I'm not entirely sure how I'm supposed to wire it or what it is. On a photo of the wires on the website I got it it says "regulators relays" but no other info. Does it regulate the power coming from the rear lights so I can hook directly to it, or is it a relay and I still need to find a source of 12v? Seems all the power in the car would have the same PWM issue, no? So it would have to smooth out the power?
Has anyone else gotten one of these with their units? Know how to wire it?

I'm not sure of this configuration, but all the head units I have seen they have an RCA connector for video in, in your case it looks like you got two cables:
white - this should be the "live" cable ( center cable of the coaxial cable) and black, which should be the mesh cable around the coaxial cable ( which most probably is ground)
The way to test is to power your camera ( +12v) then feed the output to those two cables
To activate the head unit screen, you will need to feed +12 v to the red cable
If that works, and it doesn't work from the reverse light cable, probably is because the signal is pulsating, so you will need to "smooth" it. An easy way of doing that is with a diode and capacitor
If you are interested, send me a private message and I will send a diagram

javiermi said:
I'm not sure of this configuration, but all the head units I have seen they have an RCA connector for video in, in your case it looks like you got two cables:
white - this should be the "live" cable ( center cable of the coaxial cable) and black, which should be the mesh cable around the coaxial cable ( which most probably is ground)
The way to test is to power your camera ( +12v) then feed the output to those two cables
To activate the head unit screen, you will need to feed +12 v to the red cable
If that works, and it doesn't work from the reverse light cable, probably is because the signal is pulsating, so you will need to "smooth" it. An easy way of doing that is with a diode and capacitor
If you are interested, send me a private message and I will send a diagram
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, no, those cables aren't coming out of the camera, it's just to a little circuit board with some black shrink plastic covering it. The camera is normal, 1 RCA, 1 red, 1 black. These are all power or ground, just not sure which hooks to what.
Currently thinking red goes to reverse light ground, yellow goes to reverse light live, and black goes to camera black, white goes to camera red. That would be if it's a regulator to smooth the current and not a relay, but I'm not 100% on it.

OMG, I finally figured it out, it's labeled entirely wrong. I ended up simulating the circuit board and trying things till it worked.
Pictures of circuit board
Emulation
Pretty diagram
Final verdict:
white => power in from reverse lights
black => power in from reverse lights or smoother power source that is always on
yellow => to ground from reverse lights or car frame
red => power out to camera positive lead
Both white & black have capacitors on the line to smooth power. The capacitor on the white keeps the relay open for a few moments if there's fluctuation in power that would cause it to turn off.
White to power and yellow to ground switches the relay.
Red powers the camera, and ground for the camera can just go to the frame. Though I noticed on my camera it was grounded when the RCA was plugged in and didn't need the black wire connected (connected it anyway). Camera wouldn't even turn on actually without the ground from the RCA.

Audio Distortion on 2 channels - Phoenix Android Octocore PX5 - Where to look next?

So back in August I purchased the octocore unit, with Oreo, from Phoenix Android Radios for my 2018 Civic Si. Since then it's been hell trying to figure out the distortion from my Front Left and Rear Right speakers and why fading to Front Left causes extra distorted audio that plays from both Front Left and Rear Right speakers. Same goes if fading audio to Rear Right - extra distortion and also comes from Front Left. Fading to the Front Right or Rear Left sounds normal.
Issue:
Audio sounds distorted - especially in the upper hz ranges (none specific - but not apparent under 500hz). When I use the pre-installed Amp application and fade the audio to FL (Front Left) I also hear audio from the RR (Rear Right) - it is extremely distorted to the point of disgusting and vocals cannot be made out. If I fade to the FR or RL the audio plays only out those channels and sound quality is what I'd expect. It's important to mention that the distortion isn't as extreme when playing on all speakers - but noticeable enough to be annoying especially since I'm positioned closest to the FL. I can only listen to podcasts... playing music is just painful.
Original Theory:
I must have crossed wires somewhere. I tapped/soldered (w/ shrink) directly into the harness of the radio and sent the high-level output directly to my speakers, bypassing the factory amp as Phoenix instructed me. As a sanity test - I tested each speaker individually to check for phase issues. When using an alternate audio source (cheap Bluetooth amp) to send signal, the audio sounded great across all channels. I even intentionally crossed the FL & RR negative wires (maybe I'm colorblind and can't read the labels I put on the wires) and it sounded like what you'd expect... I've wired speakers before and not new to this at all. But I've made mistakes before. I had two friends confirm I'm not crazy here. :victory:
New Theory:
Maybe the radio's built-in amp is trash. So I dished out $140 and bought a 4-channel amp and hooked up directly to RCA outputs. After doing this - not only did I lose the Android sound effects (and other things), but the main distortion was still there. Using the Amp app and fading to either FL or RR would play the exact same distortion from both channels at once. Again, as a sanity check, I plugged my tone generator into each RCA on my new 4-channel amp. Each channel worked as expected. This confirms the wiring after my amp is good. And even if I managed to screw up 4 RCA plugs - it would just swap channels, not cross them. All RCA input/outputs are isolated to prevent touching each other.
Current Theory:
I'm getting some kind of interference, maybe, but it's only affecting two channels? Or there's probably a software/hardware issue. I used FooBar2000 music player to play music and set it to convert the music to mono - the distortion was gone! Then I used the same app to down-sample the songs to mono then up-sample back to stereo (redundant - extra CPU, etc.. I know) but this HELPED the distortion significantly. I can actually listen to a song stored on the unit/usb as long as using FooBar2000 to play it and not Bluetooth or any other apps on Android. This leads me to suspect the pre-installed Amp app is sending wrong signal to each channel or it's from the built-in amplifier.
Testing - Getting Scientific:
I decided I would do a test to see what kind of voltage I'm getting from the low-power output of the RCA and voltage I'm getting from the radio's high-power speaker line at various volume levels using the Amp fader to "all" channels and comparing those results to ones when fading the test-tone to the FL speaker only. For this test - I only used the FL and RR speaker and used a constant 1K tone. I noticed when checking voltages while fading to FL or RR that the voltage wasn't constant. It would move up and down by .01 to .02 volts. Testing while faded to all channels shows a very steady voltage. Here's the results:
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If anyone can help me get to the bottom of this please! I've spent so many hours/days slaving away trying to make this work. I've re-wired everything 3 times because I kept thinking I must have made an issue somewhere as Phoenix Android Radios support team and engineers don't know what it issue is. Latest was telling me to check ground - which I grounded w/ short thick gauge copper cable (multi strand) direct to frame. Confirmed good ground w/ multimeter (was was original ground).
If someone would like a video to demonstrate this better please let me know and I'd be more than happy to record one right away!
Extra Details:

The problem is in software need to install hal9k android 8 or 9 in android 10 i found same problem!

DjGolpeX said:
The problem is in software need to install hal9k android 8 or 9 in android 10 i found same problem!
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Had same in Wondefo px5 octa core factory rom android 8 in btmusic app high frequences was distorted