HI all,
This is my first thread on this forum.
I bought a used Motorola XOOM 2 ME 8.2 inch also know as XYBOARD mz 609 in US.
The tablet had a faulty Micro USB port so I had to change it.
The unsoldering of the port from the PCB was very difficult and I ended up by tearing 2 of the 5 pads used buy the female SMD micro usb type B socket.
Basically I lost VCC and Data - pins.
I attached a pic with the actual state of the PCB pins an one with the USB pins for micro usb
I manged to recover the VCC pin by scarping the insulation of the PCB board but I couldn't find any wayt to get to the DATA - pins.
I'm not interested in using the usb port for data transfer I just want to be able to charge the tablet via micro usb port.
But I encountered another issue. After connecting VCC and Ground to an 5 volts charger the devide won't charge at all.
I did this test with other devices (an LG e 730 Android phone and an Alcatel ) I own and all started charging just by applying a 5v tension on Vcc and Ground pins.
I read about the 2 micro usb charging standards (shortened DATA + and DATA -, or 200 Ohm resistor between them) but since my DATA - is missing I'm not able to do this. Instead I linked DATA + to ground. When doing this the device signaled charging but not actually charging happened. I measured with a miliampermetre and the current absorbed by the device was fluctuating between 200 mA and 700 mA (I used a 700 mA Ac charger)
Is there any way I can trick my device into charging by missing this DATA - pin in my charger.
Any help would be welcomed.
I also thought at another fix.
Is there any way I can link a charger directly. to battery + and- using a Li Po charging module.
Sent from my XOOM 2 ME using Tapatalk
Hi again,
I just realized there is Xoom area dedicated in this forum. Can this thread be moved to the that forum? I did't find any way of moving this thread.
OLD but may help
HW_SF said:
HI all,
This is my first thread on this forum.
I bought a used Motorola XOOM 2 ME 8.2 inch also know as XYBOARD mz 609 in US.
The tablet had a faulty Micro USB port so I had to change it.
The unsoldering of the port from the PCB was very difficult and I ended up by tearing 2 of the 5 pads used buy the female SMD micro usb type B socket.
Basically I lost VCC and Data - pins.
I attached a pic with the actual state of the PCB pins an one with the USB pins for micro usb
I manged to recover the VCC pin by scarping the insulation of the PCB board but I couldn't find any wayt to get to the DATA - pins.
I'm not interested in using the usb port for data transfer I just want to be able to charge the tablet via micro usb port.
But I encountered another issue. After connecting VCC and Ground to an 5 volts charger the devide won't charge at all.
I did this test with other devices (an LG e 730 Android phone and an Alcatel ) I own and all started charging just by applying a 5v tension on Vcc and Ground pins.
I read about the 2 micro usb charging standards (shortened DATA + and DATA -, or 200 Ohm resistor between them) but since my DATA - is missing I'm not able to do this. Instead I linked DATA + to ground. When doing this the device signaled charging but not actually charging happened. I measured with a miliampermetre and the current absorbed by the device was fluctuating between 200 mA and 700 mA (I used a 700 mA Ac charger)
Is there any way I can trick my device into charging by missing this DATA - pin in my charger.
Any help would be welcomed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you can have the guy at MYdeviceRepair fix it for you check him on ebay or facebook
Related
I've buyed an auto charger capable of 2100 mAh, but with gps and data connection active, however, the battery drains quickly.
Can anyone help?
Flash android 2.3.4 and ti'll fix the battery drain bug which is a problem in 2.3.3
shad0wboss said:
Flash android 2.3.4 and ti'll fix the battery drain bug which is a problem in 2.3.3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, i've flashed the 2.3.4. I the next days will try the behaviours.
Any news? have you tried?
The battery charging so slow. It may take more then 4 hour for full charging. Can this problem solved after flash to 2.3.4?
With the new rom 2.3.4 flashed, the battery consume seems to be much linear than before, moreover maybe i've find the solution in the usb cable used in the car: a quick test by using the original usb cable with gps and data connection active has incremented the battery charge by 1% in a 10 km path.
Maybe the original cable has some special terminals configuration?
More extensive tests in next days.
Any improvement of charging time required after flash with 2.3.4 rom?
mynewuser said:
Any improvement of charging time required after flash with 2.3.4 rom?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
does not seem...
I know this problem from my HTC Desire, it's was the same and the reason was that a orig. charching cable from HTC had a special pin which says the phone to charge like ac with full power and not only usb power! You can check this in the menü. There is an entry for charching which says "AC" or "USB" charching. If it shows "USB" it goes very slow! But i don't know that there is a special charching cable for car charching from samsung available too.
Where is the menu entry that shows if is charging USB or AC?
Thanks
Hi,
You will find it there:
Settings -> (telephone) Status -> Battery Status
There it says charging AC or USB
With AC it charges with full power, with USB it charges with 500mAh only -- which is not enough power for GPS and Screen on.
(At least it's like that with HTC devices)
I have a HTC Legend -- my solution to this problem was to short-circuit the Data pins in the Micro-USB-Port of the Car-Charger.
The Original HTC-AC->USB Adapter also has the Data-Pins Short circuited.
If you buy the HTC Car-charger you will geht a special USB-Cable that only works for Charging and not for Data transfer.
So HTC Devices recognize the Original charges by detecting the short-circuited Data pins.
I don't know if it's the same with Samsung devices!
I hope it helped you a bit!
Any link on how to connect the circuited Data pins?
Yes, probably a connection scheme would be useful.
I bought today a car adapter with 1000 mah Power and micro usb port. It charges with "AC" shown in the system
It was very cheap only 10,- EUR from Germany Company "Hama" a great hardware
Yesterday i've tried with another cheap charger, and AC charge is here, by using the same cable of 2100 mAh charger.
So my conclusion is that the trick is in the charger port, not in the cable.
By searching on google, seems that the two central pins need to be short-circuited...
Hello everyone, I hope my English is understandable.
To avoid damaging the cable, I have modded the charger.
Generally the chargers are very simple to dismount: simply unscrew the ring that holds the spring and the fuse and remove a couple of screws.
Usually the data pins are soldered on the circuit board only for mechanical reasons (increase the endurance of the connector), but they are connected to nothing. Short-circuit the data pins with a solder, directly on the circuit board.
Now i see AC charge.
My old Toshiba TG01 required the same trick.
mom4751 said:
Hello everyone, I hope my English is understandable.
To avoid damaging the cable, I have modded the charger.
Generally the chargers are very simple to dismount: simply unscrew the ring that holds the spring and the fuse and remove a couple of screws.
Usually the data pins are soldered on the circuit board only for mechanical reasons (increase the endurance of the connector), but they are connected to nothing. Short-circuit the data pins with a solder, directly on the circuit board.
Now i see AC charge.
My old Toshiba TG01 required the same trick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good! I will try myself.
Anyone try this modification? Can it work?
http://winhlp.com/node/855
Problem solved...
Anybody???
I found this on Wikipedia:
Charging ports exist in two flavors: charging downstream ports (CDP), supporting data transfers as well, and dedicated charging ports (DCP), without data support. A portable device can recognize the type of USB port from the way the D+ and D- pins are connected. For example, on a dedicated charging port, the D+ and D- pins are shorted.
So what could I be doing wrong with this? How are the connectors built in chargers such as those by Motorola?
Ok. So no one knows how to do this... Well I'll tell you now that I have found out.
I dissected a Motorola home charger and found that pin 1 is connected to the positive, naturally... Pins 2 (D-) and 3 (D+) are connected together. Pin 4 however is connected to pin 5 which is the negative pin via a 200K resistor. I am unsure what the resistor does but obviously without it, the charger does not work.
Running stock gb. Is there an app to make my phone switch to AC charging when using my car charger? I know I can solder pins 2 and 3 together to get the effect. I did that to my old charger, but I have a new charger and I don't want to modify it. I am going to solder a small USB extension cable if not. Thx
How to generate AC signalling when charging from USB port.
bark777 said:
Running stock gb. Is there an app to make my phone switch to AC charging when using my car charger? I know I can solder pins 2 and 3 together to get the effect. I did that to my old charger, but I have a new charger and I don't want to modify it. I am going to solder a small USB extension cable if not. Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can make it with extension cable, a resistor (50 K ohm min , 150 K ohm max) and PVC insulating tape. Cut the extension cable so you will have 2 ends with 4 wires.
red as Vcc+ 5V
white and green as D+ and D- (data)
and black as ground.
Lets assume that the big USB plug you gonna plug on the charger, is the input to our modification, and the wire with the female plug is the output of our modification.
We don't need the green and white data wires that coming from the input, since those are the "USB" signals. We need only the 5V voltage which is the red and black, so we must insulate with tape white and green. Don't strip them, just insulate.
On the output cable with the female USB plug we still have 4 wires and we gonna connect the ground directly with the input ground. Strip the ends, twist together and insulate with tape.
Then connect the red wires (input and output) and the resistor one end ALL Together and insulate with tape. (3 points as one - red, red, resistor)
Strip wires, twist together with resistor's one end and insulate. Leave resistors other end free for later.
Then strip and connect the output signal wires together (the green and white you have available) with the resistors free end. (3 points as one, white, green, resistor's 2nd end). Strip wires, twist all together, Insulate with tape and you are ready. You can insulate the resistor with tape and all the wires together so it will be nice looking. Try to make it straight and not too thick.
If you have the battery widget application by ELVISON installed you will see that your device has switched to AC mode.
Also, this is going to work as AC on a usb port of a PC. Good luck!
Going on the above post you could use a micro extension cable and just create a short six inch extension that can be used on any usb cable.
Why would one do this?
The microUSB charging spec requires a dedicated charging port to have two of the pins shorted together so that the phone can detect that it isn't a USB port/hub on the other end. A USB port can only supply 500 mA whereas a charging port (one that isn't trying to pass data and has the two wires shorted) can supply 1000 mA.
Many "cheap" (and a lot of "expensive") car adapters don't have the pins shorted so the phone thinks there is a live USB port on the other end and "protects" it by drawing under 500 mA from it. As a result, they only charge the phone "half as fast" as they could (assuming they could put out the full "1 A" = 1000 mA, check the label).
The "fix" is to short the pins together, either in the charger itself, or in the connecting cable.
The "fast charge mode" some kernels and ROMs supply basically tells charger in the phone, "Ignore what the cable is telling you, just turn off USB data and pull 1000 mA." Hence the warnings that you may permanently damage your computer or charger.
I'm a soft - not a hard - guy!!
I bought a 2 port, 2A/1A charger offa hee-heebay. I doesn't charge so fast USB specs tell me to short the data pins, on here theres talk of resistor values across pins 4/5.
What do I need to do to get the most current down a USB cable for charging?? Well, apart from holding it in the air in an open field in a thunderstorm.....
Thanks, H.
Just go and buy an original Samsung car charger ... they're only 10 Euro or something like that.
The cheap ones from fleeBay have poor quality components that don't output enough current. I've tested one that from 5.3V on a 0mA load dropped to 3V on a ~500mA load and it didn't got past ~700mA, this adapter was rated 1A at 5V ... and don't make me get started on the safety .
Isn't it ok or simplier just to connect the phone to USB port on the CD Player ?
Yes, you can. but the USB port on most head units rarely have a high output so expect the charging to go very slowly or just keep your battery with the same power level. So a car charger is still recommended if you want to charge your phone fast.
Well I figured it out. Thanks. It might be that shorting the data will do it. The iCharger (tm) I bought has resistors across the data lines, presumably for charging the eyes.
Solution: 1A car USB and Semaphore / fastcharge.
Thanks
Sent from my MOMO9 using xda app-developers app
Hello I have a tablet Asus T100ha.The usb port is damaged on the motherboard and I'm looking for a way to charge the tablet. The tracks D-, D + and gnd are removed on the motherboard. I think there are alternative points to D- and D +. I have soldered 2 wire on gnd (gnd take on the shield) and V+ directly on the motherboard. The tablet recharge slowly when it is off. We can see the led of charging is on. When the tablet is turned on it will not charge anymore. In Windows the battery symbol show that the charger is not plugged in. The original charger is a usb charger 5v 3a and 9v 3a. I know there is a story around a 20k resistor, D- and D + and sense id. Thank you to enlighten me.
Sorry for my English.
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