Hello I have a tablet Asus T100ha.The usb port is damaged on the motherboard and I'm looking for a way to charge the tablet. The tracks D-, D + and gnd are removed on the motherboard. I think there are alternative points to D- and D +. I have soldered 2 wire on gnd (gnd take on the shield) and V+ directly on the motherboard. The tablet recharge slowly when it is off. We can see the led of charging is on. When the tablet is turned on it will not charge anymore. In Windows the battery symbol show that the charger is not plugged in. The original charger is a usb charger 5v 3a and 9v 3a. I know there is a story around a 20k resistor, D- and D + and sense id. Thank you to enlighten me.
Sorry for my English.
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Running stock gb. Is there an app to make my phone switch to AC charging when using my car charger? I know I can solder pins 2 and 3 together to get the effect. I did that to my old charger, but I have a new charger and I don't want to modify it. I am going to solder a small USB extension cable if not. Thx
How to generate AC signalling when charging from USB port.
bark777 said:
Running stock gb. Is there an app to make my phone switch to AC charging when using my car charger? I know I can solder pins 2 and 3 together to get the effect. I did that to my old charger, but I have a new charger and I don't want to modify it. I am going to solder a small USB extension cable if not. Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can make it with extension cable, a resistor (50 K ohm min , 150 K ohm max) and PVC insulating tape. Cut the extension cable so you will have 2 ends with 4 wires.
red as Vcc+ 5V
white and green as D+ and D- (data)
and black as ground.
Lets assume that the big USB plug you gonna plug on the charger, is the input to our modification, and the wire with the female plug is the output of our modification.
We don't need the green and white data wires that coming from the input, since those are the "USB" signals. We need only the 5V voltage which is the red and black, so we must insulate with tape white and green. Don't strip them, just insulate.
On the output cable with the female USB plug we still have 4 wires and we gonna connect the ground directly with the input ground. Strip the ends, twist together and insulate with tape.
Then connect the red wires (input and output) and the resistor one end ALL Together and insulate with tape. (3 points as one - red, red, resistor)
Strip wires, twist together with resistor's one end and insulate. Leave resistors other end free for later.
Then strip and connect the output signal wires together (the green and white you have available) with the resistors free end. (3 points as one, white, green, resistor's 2nd end). Strip wires, twist all together, Insulate with tape and you are ready. You can insulate the resistor with tape and all the wires together so it will be nice looking. Try to make it straight and not too thick.
If you have the battery widget application by ELVISON installed you will see that your device has switched to AC mode.
Also, this is going to work as AC on a usb port of a PC. Good luck!
Going on the above post you could use a micro extension cable and just create a short six inch extension that can be used on any usb cable.
Why would one do this?
The microUSB charging spec requires a dedicated charging port to have two of the pins shorted together so that the phone can detect that it isn't a USB port/hub on the other end. A USB port can only supply 500 mA whereas a charging port (one that isn't trying to pass data and has the two wires shorted) can supply 1000 mA.
Many "cheap" (and a lot of "expensive") car adapters don't have the pins shorted so the phone thinks there is a live USB port on the other end and "protects" it by drawing under 500 mA from it. As a result, they only charge the phone "half as fast" as they could (assuming they could put out the full "1 A" = 1000 mA, check the label).
The "fix" is to short the pins together, either in the charger itself, or in the connecting cable.
The "fast charge mode" some kernels and ROMs supply basically tells charger in the phone, "Ignore what the cable is telling you, just turn off USB data and pull 1000 mA." Hence the warnings that you may permanently damage your computer or charger.
Hi,
My TF101 won't charge anymore. The original charger stopped working a while back, which is when I first switched to a 12v 1.5a charger with USB tip from Radioshack. ---Insert long story about using the charger last night to charge a drill battery and possibly shorting some wires in bad ways---. I just bought a brand new adapter from Radioshack. Plugged in my tablet, the battery charging icon pops up for a second then goes away and there are no other signs of charging. Same thing happens when I plug it into one of my computer's 12v rails (similar to this). I think it might be trickle charging, but I haven't yet left it alone for more than an hour or so. Same thing happened when I plugged it into a 19v laptop adapter (swapped out the barrel tip with my USB tip). The USB tip is a single unchanged variable in all of these tests, but when I was at Radioshack I quickly tested the new adapter with a new tip, and it did not work, so I don't think the USB tip is the problem, but maybe. A multimeter shows correct voltage from both adapters and computer. I can't seem to get any reading from the female USB tip plug, but I also don't know where the put the meter leads, when I put them both inside the plug I got some sparks so I stopped.
Could there be something wrong with the tablet itself?
Thanks,
Marc
Edit: Or how can I test the 30-pin connector that goes into the tablet with a multimeter?
When I got my Asus TF700T I got one power plug and 2 USB to tablet/dock plugs. The first thing I was VERY disappointed about is how short the USB cord was. When in my bed I could not plug it in I had to use it off battery only due to the shortness of the USB cable.
I went out and bought a USB male to USB female cord to use as an extension cord and low and behold it would not charge both the dock and the tablet when plugged into the Asus supplied AC adapter. I am assuming the extra length might have knocked down the power from the AC adapter just enough to not charge both devices.
What you need -
1) Original USB to Tablet Asus TF700T cord
2) Any length Male to female extension cable. I bought a 7 foot.
3) A 110-220 to 12 volt 2 amp power jack(car jack) converter. This is the one I bought any should work with the same specs. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130962356608?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
This is a very easy "hardware hack" to do.
1) Pull off the 12 volt car jack at the end of the converter it will leave you with a + and a - cable coming from the power brick.
2) Simply strip off the male side of the USB extension cable disregard the 2 data cables and just use the + and - power cables. Solder/clamp/or connect and cover each connection with electrical tape.
3) Plug the USB cable into the female end of the extension cable that is connected now to the converter.
3) Plug in your dock and tablet and watch both charge at a decent rate. This gave me enough cable length to plug it in behind my bed and be able to have it plugged in and on my lap.
Also doing it this way allows you to not have to hack up your devices USB cable and you can still take it out of the female end for any syncing or traveling purposes.
Hopefully this helps someone else who has issues with how short the charge cable is for this tablet.
A USB extension cable does work, but you specifically need a USB 3.0 cable. 2.0 doesn't allow enough voltage to travel through.
All I did was buy a lamp extension cord for .99, plug the wall wart into it and plug it in the wall. Now it's close enough to the bed or anywhere else I might be.
flhthemi said:
All I did was buy a lamp extension cord for .99, plug the wall wart into it and plug it in the wall. Now it's close enough to the bed or anywhere else I might be.
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Click to collapse
Or you could do that. :laugh:
Still the best solution, I quite agree.
ShadowLea said:
A USB extension cable does work, but you specifically need a USB 3.0 cable. 2.0 doesn't allow enough voltage to travel through.
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Click to collapse
...because the charger uses some of the USB 3 wires to detect the tablet and enable 15 V - with a USB 2 cable it detects only a generic USB device and charges it with the standard 5 V.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk 4
HI all,
This is my first thread on this forum.
I bought a used Motorola XOOM 2 ME 8.2 inch also know as XYBOARD mz 609 in US.
The tablet had a faulty Micro USB port so I had to change it.
The unsoldering of the port from the PCB was very difficult and I ended up by tearing 2 of the 5 pads used buy the female SMD micro usb type B socket.
Basically I lost VCC and Data - pins.
I attached a pic with the actual state of the PCB pins an one with the USB pins for micro usb
I manged to recover the VCC pin by scarping the insulation of the PCB board but I couldn't find any wayt to get to the DATA - pins.
I'm not interested in using the usb port for data transfer I just want to be able to charge the tablet via micro usb port.
But I encountered another issue. After connecting VCC and Ground to an 5 volts charger the devide won't charge at all.
I did this test with other devices (an LG e 730 Android phone and an Alcatel ) I own and all started charging just by applying a 5v tension on Vcc and Ground pins.
I read about the 2 micro usb charging standards (shortened DATA + and DATA -, or 200 Ohm resistor between them) but since my DATA - is missing I'm not able to do this. Instead I linked DATA + to ground. When doing this the device signaled charging but not actually charging happened. I measured with a miliampermetre and the current absorbed by the device was fluctuating between 200 mA and 700 mA (I used a 700 mA Ac charger)
Is there any way I can trick my device into charging by missing this DATA - pin in my charger.
Any help would be welcomed.
I also thought at another fix.
Is there any way I can link a charger directly. to battery + and- using a Li Po charging module.
Sent from my XOOM 2 ME using Tapatalk
Hi again,
I just realized there is Xoom area dedicated in this forum. Can this thread be moved to the that forum? I did't find any way of moving this thread.
OLD but may help
HW_SF said:
HI all,
This is my first thread on this forum.
I bought a used Motorola XOOM 2 ME 8.2 inch also know as XYBOARD mz 609 in US.
The tablet had a faulty Micro USB port so I had to change it.
The unsoldering of the port from the PCB was very difficult and I ended up by tearing 2 of the 5 pads used buy the female SMD micro usb type B socket.
Basically I lost VCC and Data - pins.
I attached a pic with the actual state of the PCB pins an one with the USB pins for micro usb
I manged to recover the VCC pin by scarping the insulation of the PCB board but I couldn't find any wayt to get to the DATA - pins.
I'm not interested in using the usb port for data transfer I just want to be able to charge the tablet via micro usb port.
But I encountered another issue. After connecting VCC and Ground to an 5 volts charger the devide won't charge at all.
I did this test with other devices (an LG e 730 Android phone and an Alcatel ) I own and all started charging just by applying a 5v tension on Vcc and Ground pins.
I read about the 2 micro usb charging standards (shortened DATA + and DATA -, or 200 Ohm resistor between them) but since my DATA - is missing I'm not able to do this. Instead I linked DATA + to ground. When doing this the device signaled charging but not actually charging happened. I measured with a miliampermetre and the current absorbed by the device was fluctuating between 200 mA and 700 mA (I used a 700 mA Ac charger)
Is there any way I can trick my device into charging by missing this DATA - pin in my charger.
Any help would be welcomed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you can have the guy at MYdeviceRepair fix it for you check him on ebay or facebook
I was wondering is the wireless charger in a Nexus 7 takes the same volts as the regular USB charging port. Im asking cause I want to solder wire straight on to them and connect straight to a 5v power supply. It's for a dash install and I've already removed the battery and have it wired straight to the car battery through a 5v power supply. I'm just using the charge as a trigger to tell it to cut on and I want to do away with the USB connection completely. Thanks for any input.