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Does anyone know where I could get some microUSB charging cables with the D+ and D- data lines shorted already? (i.e. charging cable only, not for data).
Rather not take apart (Read: Destroy) my microUSB cables I use for data. I have USB wall-warts and USB cigarette lighter adapters which supports drawing 1A from the ports.
Thanks!
Cheers,
Kermee
If your like me and still have plenty of mini usb devices around, you would be best off getting a mini to micro converter off ebay, these already have the pins shorted so my wife and kids can still charge up their stuff and its quite easy to pop on/off the adapter depending on what you want to charge.
There's an easy method to "short" the data pins.
You just need a short USB "leading" (6-12' or 15-30cm extension) cable, a piece of double-sided tape and aluminum foil.
stick the tape to the foil, then cut to the size that can cover both center pins on the jack side of USB leading cable, and plug the microUSB cable, that's it.
You can do the same trick for PSPGo stock USB cable too!
I'm interested in this too. Anyone know of any sites? or at least a microusb to microusb WITH shorted pins adapter?
PhantomRampage said:
I'm interested in this too. Anyone know of any sites? or at least a microusb to microusb WITH shorted pins adapter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have to custom make it.
Do you know of any tutorials on how to do this?
Sorry for the bump but i really want to try this out, can anyone give me more specific instructions? I dont know too much about cable wiring
Buy a USB extender cable, cut the cable in half, connect the red from the plug side to red from the socket side, connect black from the plug side to black from the socket side, leave the white and green from the plug side unconnected (tape over the ends), and twist together the white and green from the socket side. Solder, then electrical tape or heat shrink all the connections. Now plug the cable into any USB charger that provides 700-1000mA, plug your micro-usb cable into the socket end, and plug it into your phone.
Thanks man, i appreciate the help.
Got it working :]
I've decided to make my own cables. Then using red heat-shrink tubing where I made the cut & modification so it would denote it's for "USB charging" only with the data-lines cut ("floating) towards the host and bridged/shorted on the device side.
I was going to make several of these so if there's enough interest, I'm willing to make several extra of these to sell for a nominal price if anyone is interested.
Cheers,
Kermee
I have one of these, for charging only, which I have plugged into my work computer.
Picked it up at some store near where I live, in Hong Kong.
Had no idea it was just for charging (actually, didn't even know you could buy such cables).
I'm probably going to get rid of it though, as I would like the ability to transfer data as well.
You do know that your phone will charge twice as fast with that cable right?
PhantomRampage said:
You do know that your phone will charge twice as fast with that cable right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, the charge on the cable at work is really slow! But I'm not too bothered as it just sits there during the day.
Be aware of that, the phone may get hot when charging because more current is allowed to speed up charing.
mingkee said:
Be aware of that, the phone may get hot when charging because more current is allowed to speed up charing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it does get a bit hot.
In any case, like I said, I'll probably buy a proper sync cable instead in the next few days.
pokey9000 said:
Buy a USB extender cable, cut the cable in half, connect the red from the plug side to red from the socket side, connect black from the plug side to black from the socket side, leave the white and green from the plug side unconnected (tape over the ends), and twist together the white and green from the socket side. Solder, then electrical tape or heat shrink all the connections. Now plug the cable into any USB charger that provides 700-1000mA, plug your micro-usb cable into the socket end, and plug it into your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just wanted to say thanks for posting up this info (for some reason thank button isn't showing for this thread). Ordered some USB extension cables today, can't wait to try this out. I've long been plagued with not getting enough juice my USB car charger, now I know why.
Edit: BTW, what's the reason for using the USB extender cable for this, couldn't you just cut an existing USB cable in half and short the D+/D- wires? I'm guessing you cut the extender cable so that you can disconnect the intact USB cable and then it would still transmit data if you desired?
cryptiq said:
Edit: BTW, what's the reason for using the USB extender cable for this, couldn't you just cut an existing USB cable in half and short the D+/D- wires? I'm guessing you cut the extender cable so that you can disconnect the intact USB cable and then it would still transmit data if you desired?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could do that too if you like. I have a big pile of 4" extenders from USB flash drives and wifi dongles and didn't really consider cutting up a microusb cable.
pokey9000 said:
You could do that too if you like. I have a big pile of 4" extenders from USB flash drives and wifi dongles and didn't really consider cutting up a microusb cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just to confirm that I'm understanding the shorting of the D+ / D- wires together, the short needs to be on the side of the cable which is connected to the phone, yes?
The D+ / D- wires which are on the side of the cable plugged into the car charger just need to be covered w/ electrical tape and not touching each other when connected back together, yes?
I drew out a sketch based on your outline of what's connected back to what, and that's what I came up with. The shorting of the D+ / D- wires going to the phone must be how the phone realizes that there's not a data connection to be made, so instead will just look for max power? If the D+ / D- lines weren't shorted when connected to the phone (but instead just not connected based on the cable), would the phone just assume USB and charge slower at that point?
Thanks for your help and clarification! I think I'm understanding what you're outlining.
jones4725 said:
Just to confirm that I'm understanding the shorting of the D+ / D- wires together, the short needs to be on the side of the cable which is connected to the phone, yes?
The D+ / D- wires which are on the side of the cable plugged into the car charger just need to be covered w/ electrical tape and not touching each other when connected back together, yes?
I drew out a sketch based on your outline of what's connected back to what, and that's what I came up with. The shorting of the D+ / D- wires going to the phone must be how the phone realizes that there's not a data connection to be made, so instead will just look for max power? If the D+ / D- lines weren't shorted when connected to the phone (but instead just not connected based on the cable), would the phone just assume USB and charge slower at that point?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, leave the charger side (USB plug) unconnected and preferrably insulated, and the phone side (USB socket) shorted. Before a USB link is established, both a USB host and USB device will set and check for different voltages on the D+ and D- pins to determine what's at the other end. This is just an extension of that and is safe for the device.
pokey9000 said:
Yes, leave the charger side (USB plug) unconnected and preferrably insulated, and the phone side (USB socket) shorted. Before a USB link is established, both a USB host and USB device will set and check for different voltages on the D+ and D- pins to determine what's at the other end. This is just an extension of that and is safe for the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks very much for confirming! I'm going to short two micro USB cables I've got for car use only.
This message is a summary of my previous messages. I hope that it will be useful. I wrote this to document what I found out about the Epic. I'm cheap, and I didn't want to buy ANOTHER charger for my car. I had a 3A, 2-port USB charger, and I was mad that my Epic was charging slowly. I managed to modify my charger to get it to perform just like the wall charger that came with my phone.
---
Q: How much current does the Epic draw from a normal (bus-powered) USB port when charging?
A: 380mA.
Q: How much current does the Epic draw from the OEM 700mA wall charger when charging?
A: 600mA
Q: How much current does the Epic draw from a car charger or an aftermarket wall charger?
A: It depends...
If the charger has the two data pins (D+ and D-) shorted, the Epic will attempt to draw 600mA. Otherwise, it will draw 380mA.
Q: How can I tell if my phone is charging at 380mA or 600mA?
A: Turn off USB debugging (Home Screen\Settings\Applications\Development\USB debugging).
If you plug into a 380mA source (D+ and D- not shorted), you get a "Charging/Mass Storage/Tethered Mode" popup when you unlock your phone.
If you plug into a 600mA source (D+ and D- shorted), you do not get a popup.
Q: I have a 1A micro USB charger from another phone. Can I use it to charge the Epic?
A: Yes, but you won't get it to charge any faster than the 700mA OEM wall charger. The phone will only draw 600mA at most, regardless of how many amps the charger can supply. (And that assumes that D+ and D- are shorted.)
Q: I have a Palm Pre wall charger. I've heard that it charges the phone faster than the Epic wall charger. Is this true?
A: No. The Palm Pre wall charger does not charge the phone any faster than normal. With my phone hooked up, I measured 590mA (600mA with cable loss). I also saw that the charger had D+ and D- shorted. It behaves exactly like the Epic's charger.
Q: Will these 1A chargers damage my phone?
A: As long as the charger is able to supply the necessary current without overheating, chargers from other phones will not damage the Epic. A charger may be rated for 3A, but the Epic controls how much current it draws.
If you buy a cheap charger, you run the risk of having the charger's chip burn up. Among other things, this could short the charger's input voltage (12V from a car) to the USB V+ line and fry your phone.
Q: I have a USB charger that seems to charge my phone slooooowly. What can I do?
A: Your charger is probably supplying 380mA (or worse). You have a few options:
NOTE: Before doing any of this, make sure that your charger is rated at 700mA or greater. If you have an unmarked charger, chances are that it will not be able to supply 700mA out of the box. Many car charger (such as those for the Nintendo DS) have built-in current limiters that prevent the device from drawing too much current.
1. Modify Your Charger: Open up the charger and look to see if D+ and D- are shorted. (They are the two middle pins on the standard size USB plug.) Modify your charger so that it shorts D+ and D-, and remove any pull-up or pull-down resistors that connect D+ and/or D- to power or ground.
2. Modify A Cable: Slice open a spare micro USB cable (or the cable from your charger), being careful not to damage the red or black wires. Cut the green and white wires (D+ and D-). Strip off a little bit of the insulation from the green and white wires that lead to the micro USB connector. Twist these wires together and wrap in electrical tape.
NOTE: This will prevent the cable from being used as a USB data transfer cable.
3. Buy a USB Charging Cable: Look for a special USB charging cable that already has D+ and D- shorted.
Q: If I buy or make a charging cable, can I get 600mA from a normal (bus-powered) USB port?
A: It depends. The USB spec says that a port can only supply 500mA max. There is usually an overcurrent monitor built into the port that will prevent an overcurrent condition. The OS will pop up a message telling you that you've exceeded the current sourcing capacity of the port.
There are some laptops, however that have ports that allow you to violate the USB spec and draw up to 1A from a port.
Use caution when experimenting.
Q: Can you tell how much current the device draws from the device?
A: No. You CAN, however, get a battery graphing app like Battery Graph.
http://www.appbrain.com/app/battery-...odroid.battery
If you set the monitoring interval to 1 minute and start charging your phone (which should be low on charge) with the wall charger, you'll see a battery curve. You can then repeat this process with your alternate charging method. If you compare the slopes of the charging curves, you'll be able to tell if your alternate charging method is performing the same as your wall charger.
It's not as quick as using a DMM, but it works. It's how I initially saw I was having a problem.
Q: How can you tell if your USB cable has D+/D- shorted?
A: 99% of all cables will not have the lines shorted. You have to buy a "charging cable". But if you are in doubt as to what cable is what, plug it into a PC's USB port. Either the PC will detect the device (not shorted), or you'll trip the USB port's overcurrent mode (shorted).
Or... You can buy a DMM and check the resistance between D+ and D-.
- N
Is there a way to display on the Epic how much current it is drawing? Or some other way to tell if the cable being used is D+/D- shorted?
Thank you. Very helpful.
jasonsf said:
Is there a way to display on the Epic how much current it is drawing? Or some other way to tell if the cable being used is D+/D- shorted?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good questions!
Q: Can you tell how much current the device draws from the device?
A: No. You CAN, however, get a battery graphing app like Battery Graph.
http://www.appbrain.com/app/battery-graph/com.modroid.battery
If you set the monitoring interval to 1 minute and start charging your phone (which should be low on charge) with the wall charger, you'll see a battery curve. You can then repeat this process with your alternate charging method. If you compare the slopes of the charging curves, you'll be able to tell if your alternate charging method is performing the same as your wall charger.
It's not as quick as using a DMM, but it works. It's how I initially saw I was having a problem.
Q: How can you tell if your USB cable has D+/D- shorted?
A: 99% of all cables will not have the lines shorted. You have to buy a "charging cable". But if you are in doubt as to what cable is what, plug it into a PC's USB port. Either the PC will detect the device (not shorted), or you'll trip the USB port's overcurrent mode (shorted).
Or... You can buy a DMM and check the resistance between D+ and D-.
Awesome! Thanks for the info!
Oh, one more thing. Are you saying that the wall charger shorts D+ and D- at the plug? So any cable is essentially shorted when using the wall charger?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
jasonsf said:
Awesome! Thanks for the info!
Oh, one more thing. Are you saying that the wall charger shorts D+ and D- at the plug? So any cable is essentially shorted when using the wall charger?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are correct.
For the Epic, the wall charger shorts D+ and D- together.
For wall or car chargers that have a non-removable cable, 99% of the time the short will be inside the charger and NOT in the cable.
Every computer I've used gladly lets me draw 1A without complaints. My old TP was hacked to draw 1A and nothing complained. Didn't even damage the cheapest of the cheap ebay chargers.
Firon said:
Every computer I've used gladly lets me draw 1A without complaints. My old TP was hacked to draw 1A and nothing complained. Didn't even damage the cheapest of the cheap ebay chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YMMV. My netbook prevents me from drawing more than 500mA per port.
It all depends on how the USB port circuit is laid out. In the designs I've seen, there's usually a power distribution switch (PDS) in-line with the port that provides overcurrent protection. When that switch trips, it sends a bit to the hub chip that tells the hub that the port is in overcurrent state. (The PDS's secondary function is short-circuit protection. If you stick a car key in your USB port, your computer won't blow up.)
PDS's come in different current cutoff steps, so it is up to the PC manufacturer to choose the right one.
If your PC can't supply the 600mA on a single port to charge the phone, buy one of those USB power splitter cables that lets you draw from 2 ports at once.
I have found that if you plug in the phone and the options for charging, mass storage and tethering pop up, then you are only charging at 380mA. If nothing pops up then you are most likely charging at 600mA.
muyoso said:
I have found that if you plug in the phone and the options for charging, mass storage and tethering pop up, then you are only charging at 380mA. If nothing pops up then you are most likely charging at 600mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ding! You are correct. I never noticed because you don't get prompted AT ALL if you have USB debugging turned on.
This is a little off topic. Does the usb cable initiate Dock Mode? I know some other phones use magnets in the dock, but I think I read that the Galaxy S phones detect the car or home dock via the USB cable. Did you discover a mechanism for this in your usb research?
jasonsf said:
This is a little off topic. Does the usb cable initiate Dock Mode? I know some other phones use magnets in the dock, but I think I read that the Galaxy S phones detect the car or home dock via the USB cable. Did you discover a mechanism for this in your usb research?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No... I didn't find anything. Maybe I'll "rent" a dock from the Sprint store and find out.
Very nice write up. Answered all the questions I had about the slow charging of this phone. Thanks again.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
I am getting substantially faster charges with a 1amp charger than the oem 700, it looks like it is using close to the 1000 ma on some chargers.
aero1 said:
I am getting substantially faster charges with a 1amp charger than the oem 700, it looks like it is using close to the 1000 ma on some chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll have to pay attention to mine. I started using the 1 amp charger that came with my Touch Pro. I charge it overnight so I don't pay attention to how fast it is charging, but I'll see if I can notice tonight.
aero1 said:
I am getting substantially faster charges with a 1amp charger than the oem 700, it looks like it is using close to the 1000 ma on some chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which chargers? I'll be happy to try any charger that you recommend.
I haven't tested charging by timing the charges, but I have installed a widget that tells me an approximate charge rate called currentwidget, and it gives me the EXACT same values for a 700 ma charger or a 1000 ma charger. Unless this widget is just straight up lying, the phone won't charge any faster than a 700 ma charger no matter how large of a charger you throw at it.
IBNobody said:
2. Modify A Cable: Slice open a spare micro USB cable (or the cable from your charger), being careful not to damage the red or black wires. Cut the green and white wires (D+ and D-). Strip off a little bit of the insulation from the green and white wires that lead to the micro USB connector. Twist these wires together and wrap in electrical tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was going to suggest just taping over the data pins in the USB connector (obviously, the regular, non-micro end), but I just tried it and it still popped up the Charging/Mass Storage/Tether, though selecting Mass Storage doesn't work -- the device is not detected by the computer for obvious reasons. I've been using this trick for a while for my mp3 player and my Hero at work and was surprised that it didn't work.
reauxgg said:
I was going to suggest just taping over the data pins in the USB connector (obviously, the regular, non-micro end), but I just tried it and it still popped up the Charging/Mass Storage/Tether, though selecting Mass Storage doesn't work -- the device is not detected by the computer for obvious reasons. I've been using this trick for a while for my mp3 player and my Hero at work and was surprised that it didn't work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, you need to short those pins together. If you leave them open, it won't go into high-current charge mode.
Those other devices may have had D+ and D- connected across a termination resistor. Putting tape on the pins would have worked then.
IBNobody- I was wondering if you could explain this one- when I plug my epic into the usb port of the cheap charger that came with 2 batteries off of ebay (see here) my epic seems to freeze and the touch screen becomes unresponsive- the charger states it puts out 5.2V 800ma
Could it be that the phone is trying to figure out if its being plugged into a computer vs a simple charger?
Do the TF200/Prime/Other cables word with the Infinity?
I'm thinking about just getting a couple of spare cables here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GJR7GS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A1HKVQTYI2W24Y but want to make sure that they fit and work.
Also, (perhaps a separate thread?) Can we use any AC to USB converter (and cable) to charge the Infinity? The adapter bundled with mine was a bit more robust than normal adapters so I'm inclined to think no, but wanted to confirm before I get a spare one.
My cable from my prime works with the infinity....I also tried a cigarette to USB plug in my Jeep and it would not charge the Infinity
if anyone finds out if other USB charging adapters work successfully, could you please post about it?
much thanks
JMH-ESH said:
if anyone finds out if other USB charging adapters work successfully, could you please post about it?
much thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
None of them will work. The charging cable for the TF700 doesn't use any the USB pins for charging. It has additional USB3-style pins hidden up inside the connector. Also, the stock charger outputs 15V which I doubt we'd find on any standard USB charger.
DefectiveRobot said:
None of them will work. The charging cable for the TF700 doesn't use any the USB pins for charging. It has additional USB3-style pins hidden up inside the connector. Also, the stock charger outputs 15V which I doubt we'd find on any standard USB charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, correcting my previous post, it can charge via a USB 2.0 connection (as on a standard USB charger) but very very slowly. The current is not enough to charge it while the screen is on. The display will read, "Not Charging" but it actually does. See the following thread for more info:
forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1788055
I want to extend the charging cable. Can I use any regular USB M to F cable or do I need something specific?
Aria807 said:
I want to extend the charging cable. Can I use any regular USB M to F cable or do I need something specific?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you need a usb 3.0 extension cord to extend the cable
wolfman87 said:
Do the TF200/Prime/Other cables word with the Infinity?
I'm thinking about just getting a couple of spare cables here: but want to make sure that they fit and work.
Also, (perhaps a separate thread?) Can we use any AC to USB converter (and cable) to charge the Infinity? The adapter bundled with mine was a bit more robust than normal adapters so I'm inclined to think no, but wanted to confirm before I get a spare one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got this one and it worked for me.
off of e- bay Item number: 180937129661
DefectiveRobot said:
None of them will work. The charging cable for the TF700 doesn't use any the USB pins for charging. It has additional USB3-style pins hidden up inside the connector. Also, the stock charger outputs 15V which I doubt we'd find on any standard USB charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Umm... did you actually test that? I went through my charger pin by pin with a multi-meter and found 5 VDC between pins 1 and 4. Look closely at the charger, it says it can supply 5VDC @ 2A or 15VDC @ 1.2 A. The only reason for switching to 15VDC would be if they had some sort of feedback signal on pins 2 and 3 going to the plug-in adapter to signal that the battery was fully charged and tell it to switch to a higher voltage/lower current mode.
ASUS standard charging cable has 5 pins instead of 4. I'm betting the feedback you're looking for actually occurs on the 5th pin.
It is known that if the data lines on the USB line are shorted together then the phone will charge at the full 1000mA rate.
If they are not shorted together, then the phone will charge at the slow 500mA rate.
I have a lot of apple house and car chargers. These apple chargers use some resistance value between the data lines to work with apple products. As so my phone treats them as a USB type charge (500mA) instead of an AC charge (1000mA).
I know I can rip a couple cords up and make them fast charge only by shorting the lines outside of the charger. This would make the cord ghetto with electrical tape.
Where can I buy a "fast charge adapter cord" premade? I've seen them on amazon but they disappeared. I am looking for like a 3 or 6 inch USB male to female cord, where the DATA lines are shorted on the female side, very simple.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1772276 some info here. :good:
Im pretty sure any OEM samsung usb cable will do the trick.
Oh yeah, just do an amazon search on charge only usb cable and you'll find something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Charge-PureGear-Retail-Package-Universal/dp/B007F1DV76
I know you can close off the data line via phone but that requires the kernel to have ac force support which enables the USB to run at full amperage and havent seen those yet on our side.
Isn't there an option to fast charge in CM and AOKP so you don't have to buy a chord? Or does that option not work?
Sent from my SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
Where to find an android fast charge cable
stupid forum won't let me post the URL... Dangerous Things has a "fast charge" cable capable of putting your android device in AC charging mode. Google dangerous things android fast charge cable to find it.
ishmell said:
stupid forum won't let me post the URL... Dangerous Things has a "fast charge" cable capable of putting your android device in AC charging mode. Google dangerous things android fast charge cable to find it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why did you bump a year old thread?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
usb fast-charging
Find the appropriate charging cable to fit your phone, tablet, or computer. The USB end of the cable has four interfaces within the cable. The two outside pins are for power and the two interior pins are for data. For converting a standard cable to fast-charging, simply remove the interior pins from the USB side of your cable. I used a small knife to pry up the pins and a small set of needle-nosed pliers to get rid of them. Wahhlahh!!! A fast charging USB cable.
HI all,
This is my first thread on this forum.
I bought a used Motorola XOOM 2 ME 8.2 inch also know as XYBOARD mz 609 in US.
The tablet had a faulty Micro USB port so I had to change it.
The unsoldering of the port from the PCB was very difficult and I ended up by tearing 2 of the 5 pads used buy the female SMD micro usb type B socket.
Basically I lost VCC and Data - pins.
I attached a pic with the actual state of the PCB pins an one with the USB pins for micro usb
I manged to recover the VCC pin by scarping the insulation of the PCB board but I couldn't find any wayt to get to the DATA - pins.
I'm not interested in using the usb port for data transfer I just want to be able to charge the tablet via micro usb port.
But I encountered another issue. After connecting VCC and Ground to an 5 volts charger the devide won't charge at all.
I did this test with other devices (an LG e 730 Android phone and an Alcatel ) I own and all started charging just by applying a 5v tension on Vcc and Ground pins.
I read about the 2 micro usb charging standards (shortened DATA + and DATA -, or 200 Ohm resistor between them) but since my DATA - is missing I'm not able to do this. Instead I linked DATA + to ground. When doing this the device signaled charging but not actually charging happened. I measured with a miliampermetre and the current absorbed by the device was fluctuating between 200 mA and 700 mA (I used a 700 mA Ac charger)
Is there any way I can trick my device into charging by missing this DATA - pin in my charger.
Any help would be welcomed.
I also thought at another fix.
Is there any way I can link a charger directly. to battery + and- using a Li Po charging module.
Sent from my XOOM 2 ME using Tapatalk
Hi again,
I just realized there is Xoom area dedicated in this forum. Can this thread be moved to the that forum? I did't find any way of moving this thread.
OLD but may help
HW_SF said:
HI all,
This is my first thread on this forum.
I bought a used Motorola XOOM 2 ME 8.2 inch also know as XYBOARD mz 609 in US.
The tablet had a faulty Micro USB port so I had to change it.
The unsoldering of the port from the PCB was very difficult and I ended up by tearing 2 of the 5 pads used buy the female SMD micro usb type B socket.
Basically I lost VCC and Data - pins.
I attached a pic with the actual state of the PCB pins an one with the USB pins for micro usb
I manged to recover the VCC pin by scarping the insulation of the PCB board but I couldn't find any wayt to get to the DATA - pins.
I'm not interested in using the usb port for data transfer I just want to be able to charge the tablet via micro usb port.
But I encountered another issue. After connecting VCC and Ground to an 5 volts charger the devide won't charge at all.
I did this test with other devices (an LG e 730 Android phone and an Alcatel ) I own and all started charging just by applying a 5v tension on Vcc and Ground pins.
I read about the 2 micro usb charging standards (shortened DATA + and DATA -, or 200 Ohm resistor between them) but since my DATA - is missing I'm not able to do this. Instead I linked DATA + to ground. When doing this the device signaled charging but not actually charging happened. I measured with a miliampermetre and the current absorbed by the device was fluctuating between 200 mA and 700 mA (I used a 700 mA Ac charger)
Is there any way I can trick my device into charging by missing this DATA - pin in my charger.
Any help would be welcomed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you can have the guy at MYdeviceRepair fix it for you check him on ebay or facebook