Related
This message is a summary of my previous messages. I hope that it will be useful. I wrote this to document what I found out about the Epic. I'm cheap, and I didn't want to buy ANOTHER charger for my car. I had a 3A, 2-port USB charger, and I was mad that my Epic was charging slowly. I managed to modify my charger to get it to perform just like the wall charger that came with my phone.
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Q: How much current does the Epic draw from a normal (bus-powered) USB port when charging?
A: 380mA.
Q: How much current does the Epic draw from the OEM 700mA wall charger when charging?
A: 600mA
Q: How much current does the Epic draw from a car charger or an aftermarket wall charger?
A: It depends...
If the charger has the two data pins (D+ and D-) shorted, the Epic will attempt to draw 600mA. Otherwise, it will draw 380mA.
Q: How can I tell if my phone is charging at 380mA or 600mA?
A: Turn off USB debugging (Home Screen\Settings\Applications\Development\USB debugging).
If you plug into a 380mA source (D+ and D- not shorted), you get a "Charging/Mass Storage/Tethered Mode" popup when you unlock your phone.
If you plug into a 600mA source (D+ and D- shorted), you do not get a popup.
Q: I have a 1A micro USB charger from another phone. Can I use it to charge the Epic?
A: Yes, but you won't get it to charge any faster than the 700mA OEM wall charger. The phone will only draw 600mA at most, regardless of how many amps the charger can supply. (And that assumes that D+ and D- are shorted.)
Q: I have a Palm Pre wall charger. I've heard that it charges the phone faster than the Epic wall charger. Is this true?
A: No. The Palm Pre wall charger does not charge the phone any faster than normal. With my phone hooked up, I measured 590mA (600mA with cable loss). I also saw that the charger had D+ and D- shorted. It behaves exactly like the Epic's charger.
Q: Will these 1A chargers damage my phone?
A: As long as the charger is able to supply the necessary current without overheating, chargers from other phones will not damage the Epic. A charger may be rated for 3A, but the Epic controls how much current it draws.
If you buy a cheap charger, you run the risk of having the charger's chip burn up. Among other things, this could short the charger's input voltage (12V from a car) to the USB V+ line and fry your phone.
Q: I have a USB charger that seems to charge my phone slooooowly. What can I do?
A: Your charger is probably supplying 380mA (or worse). You have a few options:
NOTE: Before doing any of this, make sure that your charger is rated at 700mA or greater. If you have an unmarked charger, chances are that it will not be able to supply 700mA out of the box. Many car charger (such as those for the Nintendo DS) have built-in current limiters that prevent the device from drawing too much current.
1. Modify Your Charger: Open up the charger and look to see if D+ and D- are shorted. (They are the two middle pins on the standard size USB plug.) Modify your charger so that it shorts D+ and D-, and remove any pull-up or pull-down resistors that connect D+ and/or D- to power or ground.
2. Modify A Cable: Slice open a spare micro USB cable (or the cable from your charger), being careful not to damage the red or black wires. Cut the green and white wires (D+ and D-). Strip off a little bit of the insulation from the green and white wires that lead to the micro USB connector. Twist these wires together and wrap in electrical tape.
NOTE: This will prevent the cable from being used as a USB data transfer cable.
3. Buy a USB Charging Cable: Look for a special USB charging cable that already has D+ and D- shorted.
Q: If I buy or make a charging cable, can I get 600mA from a normal (bus-powered) USB port?
A: It depends. The USB spec says that a port can only supply 500mA max. There is usually an overcurrent monitor built into the port that will prevent an overcurrent condition. The OS will pop up a message telling you that you've exceeded the current sourcing capacity of the port.
There are some laptops, however that have ports that allow you to violate the USB spec and draw up to 1A from a port.
Use caution when experimenting.
Q: Can you tell how much current the device draws from the device?
A: No. You CAN, however, get a battery graphing app like Battery Graph.
http://www.appbrain.com/app/battery-...odroid.battery
If you set the monitoring interval to 1 minute and start charging your phone (which should be low on charge) with the wall charger, you'll see a battery curve. You can then repeat this process with your alternate charging method. If you compare the slopes of the charging curves, you'll be able to tell if your alternate charging method is performing the same as your wall charger.
It's not as quick as using a DMM, but it works. It's how I initially saw I was having a problem.
Q: How can you tell if your USB cable has D+/D- shorted?
A: 99% of all cables will not have the lines shorted. You have to buy a "charging cable". But if you are in doubt as to what cable is what, plug it into a PC's USB port. Either the PC will detect the device (not shorted), or you'll trip the USB port's overcurrent mode (shorted).
Or... You can buy a DMM and check the resistance between D+ and D-.
- N
Is there a way to display on the Epic how much current it is drawing? Or some other way to tell if the cable being used is D+/D- shorted?
Thank you. Very helpful.
jasonsf said:
Is there a way to display on the Epic how much current it is drawing? Or some other way to tell if the cable being used is D+/D- shorted?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good questions!
Q: Can you tell how much current the device draws from the device?
A: No. You CAN, however, get a battery graphing app like Battery Graph.
http://www.appbrain.com/app/battery-graph/com.modroid.battery
If you set the monitoring interval to 1 minute and start charging your phone (which should be low on charge) with the wall charger, you'll see a battery curve. You can then repeat this process with your alternate charging method. If you compare the slopes of the charging curves, you'll be able to tell if your alternate charging method is performing the same as your wall charger.
It's not as quick as using a DMM, but it works. It's how I initially saw I was having a problem.
Q: How can you tell if your USB cable has D+/D- shorted?
A: 99% of all cables will not have the lines shorted. You have to buy a "charging cable". But if you are in doubt as to what cable is what, plug it into a PC's USB port. Either the PC will detect the device (not shorted), or you'll trip the USB port's overcurrent mode (shorted).
Or... You can buy a DMM and check the resistance between D+ and D-.
Awesome! Thanks for the info!
Oh, one more thing. Are you saying that the wall charger shorts D+ and D- at the plug? So any cable is essentially shorted when using the wall charger?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
jasonsf said:
Awesome! Thanks for the info!
Oh, one more thing. Are you saying that the wall charger shorts D+ and D- at the plug? So any cable is essentially shorted when using the wall charger?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are correct.
For the Epic, the wall charger shorts D+ and D- together.
For wall or car chargers that have a non-removable cable, 99% of the time the short will be inside the charger and NOT in the cable.
Every computer I've used gladly lets me draw 1A without complaints. My old TP was hacked to draw 1A and nothing complained. Didn't even damage the cheapest of the cheap ebay chargers.
Firon said:
Every computer I've used gladly lets me draw 1A without complaints. My old TP was hacked to draw 1A and nothing complained. Didn't even damage the cheapest of the cheap ebay chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YMMV. My netbook prevents me from drawing more than 500mA per port.
It all depends on how the USB port circuit is laid out. In the designs I've seen, there's usually a power distribution switch (PDS) in-line with the port that provides overcurrent protection. When that switch trips, it sends a bit to the hub chip that tells the hub that the port is in overcurrent state. (The PDS's secondary function is short-circuit protection. If you stick a car key in your USB port, your computer won't blow up.)
PDS's come in different current cutoff steps, so it is up to the PC manufacturer to choose the right one.
If your PC can't supply the 600mA on a single port to charge the phone, buy one of those USB power splitter cables that lets you draw from 2 ports at once.
I have found that if you plug in the phone and the options for charging, mass storage and tethering pop up, then you are only charging at 380mA. If nothing pops up then you are most likely charging at 600mA.
muyoso said:
I have found that if you plug in the phone and the options for charging, mass storage and tethering pop up, then you are only charging at 380mA. If nothing pops up then you are most likely charging at 600mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ding! You are correct. I never noticed because you don't get prompted AT ALL if you have USB debugging turned on.
This is a little off topic. Does the usb cable initiate Dock Mode? I know some other phones use magnets in the dock, but I think I read that the Galaxy S phones detect the car or home dock via the USB cable. Did you discover a mechanism for this in your usb research?
jasonsf said:
This is a little off topic. Does the usb cable initiate Dock Mode? I know some other phones use magnets in the dock, but I think I read that the Galaxy S phones detect the car or home dock via the USB cable. Did you discover a mechanism for this in your usb research?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No... I didn't find anything. Maybe I'll "rent" a dock from the Sprint store and find out.
Very nice write up. Answered all the questions I had about the slow charging of this phone. Thanks again.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
I am getting substantially faster charges with a 1amp charger than the oem 700, it looks like it is using close to the 1000 ma on some chargers.
aero1 said:
I am getting substantially faster charges with a 1amp charger than the oem 700, it looks like it is using close to the 1000 ma on some chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll have to pay attention to mine. I started using the 1 amp charger that came with my Touch Pro. I charge it overnight so I don't pay attention to how fast it is charging, but I'll see if I can notice tonight.
aero1 said:
I am getting substantially faster charges with a 1amp charger than the oem 700, it looks like it is using close to the 1000 ma on some chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which chargers? I'll be happy to try any charger that you recommend.
I haven't tested charging by timing the charges, but I have installed a widget that tells me an approximate charge rate called currentwidget, and it gives me the EXACT same values for a 700 ma charger or a 1000 ma charger. Unless this widget is just straight up lying, the phone won't charge any faster than a 700 ma charger no matter how large of a charger you throw at it.
IBNobody said:
2. Modify A Cable: Slice open a spare micro USB cable (or the cable from your charger), being careful not to damage the red or black wires. Cut the green and white wires (D+ and D-). Strip off a little bit of the insulation from the green and white wires that lead to the micro USB connector. Twist these wires together and wrap in electrical tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was going to suggest just taping over the data pins in the USB connector (obviously, the regular, non-micro end), but I just tried it and it still popped up the Charging/Mass Storage/Tether, though selecting Mass Storage doesn't work -- the device is not detected by the computer for obvious reasons. I've been using this trick for a while for my mp3 player and my Hero at work and was surprised that it didn't work.
reauxgg said:
I was going to suggest just taping over the data pins in the USB connector (obviously, the regular, non-micro end), but I just tried it and it still popped up the Charging/Mass Storage/Tether, though selecting Mass Storage doesn't work -- the device is not detected by the computer for obvious reasons. I've been using this trick for a while for my mp3 player and my Hero at work and was surprised that it didn't work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, you need to short those pins together. If you leave them open, it won't go into high-current charge mode.
Those other devices may have had D+ and D- connected across a termination resistor. Putting tape on the pins would have worked then.
IBNobody- I was wondering if you could explain this one- when I plug my epic into the usb port of the cheap charger that came with 2 batteries off of ebay (see here) my epic seems to freeze and the touch screen becomes unresponsive- the charger states it puts out 5.2V 800ma
Could it be that the phone is trying to figure out if its being plugged into a computer vs a simple charger?
Are all of Apple's OEM iPhone wall chargers (the white little square looking one's) rated at 1 amp? They're cheap on eBay and I like their small form factor and want to pick one up for my Captivate. Thx
I use one and they work fine.
^If you have your charger on hand, would you mind checking to see if it outputs 1Amp?
On your phone, go to Settings->About Phone->Status->Battery Status. If it says "Charging (AC)", it is charging at the max amperage the charger can offer (up to 1A). If it says "Charging (USB)", it is only charging at 500mA, the max a PC USB can offer. I'm pretty sure for iPhone/iPod chargers, it will show later case on our phone because it is not wired according to Samsung's AC charging requirement. I knew this because I had a 3rd party Car charger that was designed for iPhone/iPod and it won't let my Captivate to charge in AC charger mode. I have to open the charger and make a few mod myself to let Captivate to recognize this is an AC charger, not PC USB.
On the other hand, my 1A charger from Kodak Zi8 flash cam works w/o problem with Captivate.
foxbat121 said:
On your phone, go to Settings->About Phone->Status->Battery Status. If it says "Charging (AC)", it is charging at the max amperage the charger can offer (up to 1A). If it says "Charging (USB)", it is only charging at 500mA, the max a PC USB can offer. I'm pretty sure for iPhone/iPod chargers, it will show later case on our phone because it is not wired according to Samsung's AC charging requirement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ty for the reply. I modded a usb retractable cable by shorting the middle connectors and when I go into settings it shows it's "Charging AC". This is with a generic 700mA usb wall charger I got with a cheap connector kit for my old iPhone.
Anyway, I recently got my Captivate and I find myself constantly playing with it, but it kills my battery doing so. I just want to charge my phone as quickly as possible so I can continue playing with it some more (in a good way).
I like Apple's wall charger because it's small.
From what I have read they are rated at 650 mv so fox is right that they will show as a usb connection. I have never really paid attention and am making a relatively uneducated, yet randomly tested, through my own purely subjective method of simply plugging my phone into anything that will allow my usb cord access, guess that anything with a female usb connection is fine.
Li-ion batteries are kinda dangerous so I am pretty sure there is some sort of idiot proofing built into the charging circuitry in the phone as well.
I'm pretty sure the Captivate will only draw the amps it needs so there should be no danger whether the wall charger is 1 or 2 Amps or more.
The difference is simply the charge time. The phone needs about 3 to 4 hours to get a full charge on the stock 700mA charger. When using generic USB chargers, it will be limited to 500mA max regardless what the charger is capable of and the full charge time will be proportionally longer. The bigger problem is that when your battery is really really low, 500mA may not be enough to even start the charging. That's why you need always keep the OEM charger handy for emergency.
BTW, for a car charger, 500mA won't keep your bettery from draining if you run navigation app that needs to power GPS chip, keep the screen on and download map from 3G connection at the same time. It requires 700mA or more. That is why it is very critical for a car charger be recognized by the phone as AC charger to draw more juice.
Ok, as I stated in my previous post I modded a USB cable by shorting the two middle data connectors, which tricks the Captivate into thinking it's charging with AC through my generic 700mA wall charger. It also says in settings it's "AC Charging" when I looked.
I just wanted to know if the iPhone's wall charger is rated at 1A or was it 650mA?? as newter55 stated.
thx for everyone's help.
Edit: My mistake, I thought I posted this in the Q&A section.
For some new PC motherboard with USB3.0,
they can output 900mA~1000mA(1A) in one single USB port.
You may check this out http://goo.gl/TUaef
If your PC is already 2 years old or older, the usb will only output 500mA in the max.
And, most Li-ion charger are smart enough.
In fact Li-ion charger circuit need to be well design in current control and over current/charge control.
The circuit will not pump full current to the battery in the beginning,
and it will not draw too much, so no need to worry about burn it up.
However if the current is too high let's say 10A.... it may possibly burn the circuit.
Maybe it is a bit difficult to measure current, you need to cut the wire and plug it to ampmeter....
Here is some reference.
500mA - full charge need over 3hrs
700mA - around 2hrs
1A - ~1.5 hr
johan8 said:
For some new PC motherboard with USB3.0,
they can output 900mA~1000mA(1A) in one single USB port.
You may check this out http://goo.gl/TUaef
If your PC is already 2 years old or older, the usb will only output 500mA in the max.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not about USB port side. The phone itself also detects and determines how much current it will draw. If it detects it is a PC USB, it will only draw 500mA max as Captivate is designed following USB 2.0 spec.
Ok, thanks for everyone's help. I was able to find out on my own after scouring the internet and talking to someone who has the Apple wall charger and it is indeed 1Amps. I believe all wall chargers that come with the iPhone 3g and all iPhone models after are 1Amps. Not sure about the original iPhone 2g.
Also, for curiosities sake, the iPad USB wall charger is 2Amps.
foxbat121 said:
It is not about USB port side. The phone itself also detects and determines how much current it will draw. If it detects it is a PC USB, it will only draw 500mA max as Captivate is designed following USB 2.0 spec.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe.
I don't know the control circuit inside GalaxyS.
But USB2.0 doesn't means it is just 500mA.
iphone is just usb2.0, but it is the only thing can draw 1A from USB ?
http://goo.gl/GVqKl
(with designated m/b)
johan8 said:
Maybe.
I don't know the control circuit inside GalaxyS.
But USB2.0 doesn't means it is just 500mA.
iphone is just usb2.0, but it is the only thing can draw 1A from USB ?
http://goo.gl/GVqKl
(with designated m/b)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're missing the point. The charge port on the phone can draw more than 500mA but only if it detects it is connected to a AC charger. Like mentioned above, you have to short the data PINs on the USB port or cable to let the Captivate think it is connected to AC charger. For iPhone, the data pins need to be connected to certain specific voltages in order to let iPhone know it is connected to an Apple AC charger.
When the phone can not detect AC charger characteristics, it falls back to PC USB 2.0 spec which is 500mA max.
I use one to charge my Zune. Haven't had a problem.
foxbat121 said:
You're missing the point. The charge port on the phone can draw more than 500mA but only if it detects it is connected to a AC charger. Like mentioned above, you have to short the data PINs on the USB port or cable to let the Captivate think it is connected to AC charger. For iPhone, the data pins need to be connected to certain specific voltages in order to let iPhone know it is connected to an Apple AC charger.
When the phone can not detect AC charger characteristics, it falls back to PC USB 2.0 spec which is 500mA max.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I fully understand what you're saying.
In iphone3, it can only draw 700mA from USB,
IP4 can draw nearly 1A from "computer" USB.
While iphone are just USB2.0 !
GalaxyS can draw 1A in max.
But does it like iphone4 can draw 1A from PC USB ? I don't know.
Or just like IP3 can draw only 500~700mA ?
I don't have new m/b and ampmeter so can't testing on it.
Sorry if this has already been asked and answered - the XDA Search has been down for the past couple of hours and I just want to be sure I'm not missing anything here..
From what I can see in the reviews, the TF does *not* have any sort of charging indicator / LED on it - correct? I read that there will be one on the keyboard dock - but there is not one on the tablet.
So what are you guys doing? Just plugging it in and letting it sit overnight to give it its full charge - and then going by the battery indicator when you turn it on?
I've got my new TF sitting next to me here, and I'm trying to be a good dad to it by charging it up first before using it - but not having any sort of an indicator on it - I have no idea if it's doing anything or not!!!
Screw it - I think I"m gonna unplug it and start futzing it with it! Battery be damned!!
btw - damn this charge cable is SHORT!!
No charging LED that I can see on mine, and yea, I hate this stupid charging cable, guess you can always get a USB extension cable.
pogul said:
Sorry if this has already been asked and answered - the XDA Search has been down for the past couple of hours and I just want to be sure I'm not missing anything here..
From what I can see in the reviews, the TF does *not* have any sort of charging indicator / LED on it - correct? I read that there will be one on the keyboard dock - but there is not one on the tablet.
So what are you guys doing? Just plugging it in and letting it sit overnight to give it its full charge - and then going by the battery indicator when you turn it on?
I've got my new TF sitting next to me here, and I'm trying to be a good dad to it by charging it up first before using it - but not having any sort of an indicator on it - I have no idea if it's doing anything or not!!!
Screw it - I think I"m gonna unplug it and start futzing it with it! Battery be damned!!
btw - damn this charge cable is SHORT!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Monoprice has the USB 3.0 extension cables, but they won't be in stock until tomorrow (their estimate). When they are back in stock, a 6ft extension will run you about $7-$8 shipped.
I plan to order a few cables from Monoprice with a mini hdmi to hdmi cable.
Does it need to be usb 3.0 or will usb 2.0 do the trick ?
dfin13 said:
Monoprice has the USB 3.0 extension cables, but they won't be in stock until tomorrow (their estimate). When they are back in stock, a 6ft extension will run you about $7-$8 shipped.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB 2 cables don't supply enough power.
It will charge, but I think it has to be off and it'd be really slow going.
But usb 2.0 extension cable will work fine with the supplied charger? Also would you not require a usb 2.0 to usb 3.0 converter ?
Asus really overlook the inclusion of an charging indicator. Or, they are trying to make more $$$ on the keyboard/dock?
jake21 said:
But usb 2.0 extension cable will work fine with the supplied charger? Also would you not require a usb 2.0 to usb 3.0 converter ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has anyone got some definitve experience on USB2 vs USB3 for charging and/or with an extension cable. The whole charging process and adaptor are making me a little nervous in general.
there is no reason to invest in USB 3 gear when all you really need is higher amperage, wich you often get from stand-alone chargers like the one supplied or you can buy in stores (just check that the output is 1000mah or more, 2000 mah is desired for effective charging).
The reason you might want to use a usb 3 PORT (cable makes no diffrence) is that usb 3 deliver more juice then usb 2, but unless it is a dedicated charger port that can supply 2000mah+ charge the port still require you to have the pad either off or stand by and even then charging will take ages.
Consider this, the supplied charger delivers 2000mah on 5v and my HTC charger to my phone has 1000mah @ 5v. Compared to the standard 550mah on a singel non-charger adapted USB port on a computer.
The TF charger output at 15V @ 1.2A with using the supplied USB3.0 cable. If you use a USB2.0 extension cable, it will drop the charging voltage down to 5V. You will need a USB3.0 extension cable
eli.kennedy said:
Has anyone got some definitve experience on USB2 vs USB3 for charging and/or with an extension cable. The whole charging process and adaptor are making me a little nervous in general.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's a thread about this issue here. Several USB 3.0 cables have been found to work, but not for everyone. I have this one that I received today. It charged both the tab and the dock with the wall charger. I've also got a Tripp Lite that's worked for others on the way in the case the other didn't work.
it has to be USB 3.0 extension since the tablet recognizes the extra pin which is what lets it charge at the full rate.
jmkhenka said:
there is no reason to invest in USB 3 gear when all you really need is higher amperage, wich you often get from stand-alone chargers like the one supplied or you can buy in stores (just check that the output is 1000mah or more, 2000 mah is desired for effective charging).
The reason you might want to use a usb 3 PORT (cable makes no diffrence) is that usb 3 deliver more juice then usb 2, but unless it is a dedicated charger port that can supply 2000mah+ charge the port still require you to have the pad either off or stand by and even then charging will take ages.
Consider this, the supplied charger delivers 2000mah on 5v and my HTC charger to my phone has 1000mah @ 5v. Compared to the standard 550mah on a singel non-charger adapted USB port on a computer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not quite correct. The charger senses a gnd connection on pin 7 of the USB 3.0 connector and delivers 15V @2a to the TF and or Dock. There are only 4 conductors in a USB 2.0 Cable. so the charger only delivers 5V as it does not see the gnd on pin 7. For all the technical details see the thread started by DevCake where the voltages and currents have actually been measured. A 5V 20A charger will not be as good as one with 11-15V at about 2A as the charger is not a constant current charger but a power source for a charge controller ( controlling the current) in the TF.
I appreciate that it is a slightly older thread and not sure if what I'm about to post is already known by TF owners but here goes anyway.
The discussion has moved on to cables but the threqad title is about a charging indicator. I've discovered that the battery icon in the bottom RH corner has a lightning symbol through it when it is being charged.
Sorry if it's old news but I've only had my TF one week and thought other users might not be aware
Really wish they would have put in a fancy multicolor LED somewhere on the housing but we can't win them all. Even the Nook Color had an LED on the cable itself.
As the cable is too short, I attached an extension cable.
However, now it does not charge. If i connect the short cable that came with the Transformer, it charges fine. Any suggestion?
The TF101 "short cable" as you call it, is a USB3 cable, what has +5 pins inside. One of these pins control the 15V charging (the tablet takes 15V from the charger instead of the usual 5V USB), if it can not send the signal through, it won't charge. You need a USB3 extension cable what's pretty expensive though.
Get this one or a similar one. As you can see, 2 reviewers vouch that this cable works.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-6-Fe...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1316952334&sr=1-1
ondoy1943 said:
Get this one or a similar one. As you can see, 2 reviewers vouch that this cable works.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-6-Fe...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1316952334&sr=1-1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can vouch for it, too.
Got on of this USB 3 cable while at HK and work without any problem.
Thank you guys. Will be purchasing one. I am guessing Belkin F7C008QAF Conserve Valet USB Charging Station - Energy Saving wont be working with this :/
That is correct, because the transformer looks for termination of one of the usb 3 pins, if you plug it into a usb 2.0 or lower extension/hub it just wont work. You must have a usb 3 extension/hub, or, there are many DIY chargers that are probably cheaper than a usb 3 extension cable and definately cheaper than a usb 3 hub.
Even a usb 3.0 hub or charging station will not charge it. Usb does not provide the voltage required. Only the outlet adapter will work
Sent from my mopho
Are you saying that my cigarette outlet will be the only thing that charges this?
It won't charge it all with anything unless turned off. Guess I need to make a hybrid cable
Posted on the fly with my XPLOD Evo4G
I Love the Magnetic USB C Cables for Charging My Samsung Galaxy Note 9.
I'm Interested to know if Anyone know about a 4 foot to 6 foot Magnetic USB C Cable that Will be able to Quick Charge at QC3 Speeds so the Slow Charging Message won't pop up every time the connection is made.
Please attach Snapshots of the Phone saying Quick Charge and the Cable before and after connection is made and a Link to where to buy it.
I don't understand the large benefit of using such cables.
roaduardo said:
I don't understand the large benefit of using such cables.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When constantly connecting and disconnecting the wire to charge with the regular cable, the plug on the phone gets looser and looser over time.
Also, if and when someone might knock into you with the wire plugged in, then it could make your phone fall to the floor possibly causing it to get damaged.
These are just 2 Very good reasons why a Magnetic Cable is a Good Option.
gd761 said:
When constantly connecting and disconnecting the wire to charge with the regular cable, the plug on the phone gets looser and looser over time.
Also, if and when someone might knock into you with the wire plugged in, then it could make your phone fall to the floor possibly causing it to get damaged.
These are just 2 Very good reasons why a Magnetic Cable is a Good Option.
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Oh, okay. So it's constant data transfers folks are doing that necessitate this kind of thing?
roaduardo said:
Oh, okay. So it's constant data transfers folks are doing that necessitate this kind of thing?
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It's Not only for Data Transfers.
When you have a Low Battery and want to charge your phone with a Battery Bank and are also using your phone while walking around and someone or something bumps into or snags the wire, your phone don't get pulled out of your hand.
Also, what about when you have pets that jump around and knock into you or your wire? I constantly have My dog that jumps up on my lap and down when he wants to get down for whatever reason. Sometimes he catches the wire and My phone still stays either in My hand or on the arm of the couch.
And lastly, when you want to charge your phone in the car, you don't have to concentrate on plugging in your phone. Just put the end of the wire close and it connects on it's own and charges your phone.
gd761 said:
It's Not only for Data Transfers.
When you have a Low Battery and want to charge your phone with a Battery Bank and are also using your phone while walking around and someone or something bumps into or snags the wire, your phone don't get pulled out of your hand.
Also, what about when you have pets that jump around and knock into you or your wire? I constantly have My dog that jumps up on my lap and down when he wants to get down for whatever reason. Sometimes he catches the wire and My phone still stays either in My hand or on the arm of the couch.
And lastly, when you want to charge your phone in the car, you don't have to concentrate on plugging in your phone. Just put the end of the wire close and it connects on it's own and charges your phone.
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Ah, gotcha. Out of personal habits. That makes sense. Personally the only time I've got my phone connected is to transfer large files and that's rare. I wireless charge almost exclusively, home and on the go, so I don't have to suffer the consequences of any pets or people pulling any cords out. Wireless is so lovely.
Have you read the comments in any of the magnet wires on Amazon to see if someone can confirm QC3 speeds?
roaduardo said:
Have you read the comments in any of the magnet wires on Amazon to see if someone can confirm QC3 speeds?
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Yes I have, and they either don't know the True Charging Speeds or don't know the exact Specs of the Cable.
For a QC3 Cable, it would have to be a USB 3 or USB 3.1 Spec Cable. Most Cables are USB 2.0 and most people think that's a QC3 for a Magnetic USB Cable.
A USB 2.0 Cable that Plugs into a Phone Will Quick Charge, but that's NOT the same as a Magnetic Cable.
gd761 said:
I Love the Magnetic USB C Cables for Charging My Samsung Galaxy Note 9.
I'm Interested to know if Anyone know about a 4 foot to 6 foot Magnetic USB C Cable that Will be able to Quick Charge at QC3 Speeds so the Slow Charging Message won't pop up every time the connection is made.
Please attach Snapshots of the Phone saying Quick Charge and the Cable before and after connection is made and a Link to where to buy it.
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Using the QC 3.0 chargers won't charge the Note 9 at QC 3.0 speed. Note 9 itself only supports QC 2.0, so when you plug it to QC 3.0 charger, it will still charge at the speed of QC 2.0.
These support QC, I've tested with my Note 9 and it fast charges fine. I've confirmed with an in-line USB power tester and it's going up to 9V and is able to supply as much currently as the other non-magnetic USB cables I've used. Data transfer is also working with this cable.
Hi guys the cable from nu wave supports fast charging of all Samsung devices. As you know quick charge 3.0 magnetic cables are backwards compatible with 2.0. But these cables also support Samsung AFC. They have a video demonstrating generic magnetic cables but the actual cable in the product description and images is what you get which supports the above technologies.