I've buyed an auto charger capable of 2100 mAh, but with gps and data connection active, however, the battery drains quickly.
Can anyone help?
Flash android 2.3.4 and ti'll fix the battery drain bug which is a problem in 2.3.3
shad0wboss said:
Flash android 2.3.4 and ti'll fix the battery drain bug which is a problem in 2.3.3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, i've flashed the 2.3.4. I the next days will try the behaviours.
Any news? have you tried?
The battery charging so slow. It may take more then 4 hour for full charging. Can this problem solved after flash to 2.3.4?
With the new rom 2.3.4 flashed, the battery consume seems to be much linear than before, moreover maybe i've find the solution in the usb cable used in the car: a quick test by using the original usb cable with gps and data connection active has incremented the battery charge by 1% in a 10 km path.
Maybe the original cable has some special terminals configuration?
More extensive tests in next days.
Any improvement of charging time required after flash with 2.3.4 rom?
mynewuser said:
Any improvement of charging time required after flash with 2.3.4 rom?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
does not seem...
I know this problem from my HTC Desire, it's was the same and the reason was that a orig. charching cable from HTC had a special pin which says the phone to charge like ac with full power and not only usb power! You can check this in the menü. There is an entry for charching which says "AC" or "USB" charching. If it shows "USB" it goes very slow! But i don't know that there is a special charching cable for car charching from samsung available too.
Where is the menu entry that shows if is charging USB or AC?
Thanks
Hi,
You will find it there:
Settings -> (telephone) Status -> Battery Status
There it says charging AC or USB
With AC it charges with full power, with USB it charges with 500mAh only -- which is not enough power for GPS and Screen on.
(At least it's like that with HTC devices)
I have a HTC Legend -- my solution to this problem was to short-circuit the Data pins in the Micro-USB-Port of the Car-Charger.
The Original HTC-AC->USB Adapter also has the Data-Pins Short circuited.
If you buy the HTC Car-charger you will geht a special USB-Cable that only works for Charging and not for Data transfer.
So HTC Devices recognize the Original charges by detecting the short-circuited Data pins.
I don't know if it's the same with Samsung devices!
I hope it helped you a bit!
Any link on how to connect the circuited Data pins?
Yes, probably a connection scheme would be useful.
I bought today a car adapter with 1000 mah Power and micro usb port. It charges with "AC" shown in the system
It was very cheap only 10,- EUR from Germany Company "Hama" a great hardware
Yesterday i've tried with another cheap charger, and AC charge is here, by using the same cable of 2100 mAh charger.
So my conclusion is that the trick is in the charger port, not in the cable.
By searching on google, seems that the two central pins need to be short-circuited...
Hello everyone, I hope my English is understandable.
To avoid damaging the cable, I have modded the charger.
Generally the chargers are very simple to dismount: simply unscrew the ring that holds the spring and the fuse and remove a couple of screws.
Usually the data pins are soldered on the circuit board only for mechanical reasons (increase the endurance of the connector), but they are connected to nothing. Short-circuit the data pins with a solder, directly on the circuit board.
Now i see AC charge.
My old Toshiba TG01 required the same trick.
mom4751 said:
Hello everyone, I hope my English is understandable.
To avoid damaging the cable, I have modded the charger.
Generally the chargers are very simple to dismount: simply unscrew the ring that holds the spring and the fuse and remove a couple of screws.
Usually the data pins are soldered on the circuit board only for mechanical reasons (increase the endurance of the connector), but they are connected to nothing. Short-circuit the data pins with a solder, directly on the circuit board.
Now i see AC charge.
My old Toshiba TG01 required the same trick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good! I will try myself.
Anyone try this modification? Can it work?
http://winhlp.com/node/855
Related
It seems the only way to fast charge a N1 is with the supplied wall charger. Standard Micro USB chargers whould only allow at much as 450mA of charge current regardless of the adapter current capacity.
The bundled charger however, manages to push 900mA into the N1. I made a cut in the charger wires and measured the current draw to make sure.
Now.. I'd like my car charger to be able to do the same. There must be some hack in the plug of the N1 charger since there are only 2 conductors from the case to the plug. You can see that the plug is somewhat longer than similar Micro USB plugs..
So I tried to see if one of the 3 unused pins can tell me anything but.. they seem unconnected as far as I could tell. Diode measurement (to test for any digital part inside) also did not produce any results. The next obvious step is to take the molded plug apart but I'd rather not...
Does anyone have any clue as to what makes that plug so special?
And please - I did my tests with a bench power supply - not the car chargers - so don't go around telling me it has to do with charger current capacity.
Thanks,
Nir
are you sure the micro usb cords you are using are able to handle the amps? most chargers made prior to now, only push about 450mA, the G1, and N1 chargers i have push a full amp though. I just ordered a car charger that pushes an amp too. There is nothing "special" about the plug.
followinginsanity said:
are you sure the micro usb cords you are using are able to handle the amps? most chargers made prior to now, only push about 450mA, the G1, and N1 chargers i have push a full amp though. I just ordered a car charger that pushes an amp too. There is nothing "special" about the plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I beg to differ. All the cords can easily supply 1 AMP. It is the phone itself that decides how much to draw from the charger based on something IN THE PLUG.
I am an electronics engineer so do understand I know perfectly what I am talking about
And your 1A car charger does not supply anything over 0.45A to the phone.. you will see that if you are using the phone while it charges (say nav or phone call) the phone actually looses some charge albeit it being charged... This will not happen with the stock wall charger.
I have a 900mAh car charger that I use and it does in fact give 900mAh to the phone while charging. I can tell because I used a 450mAh charger at home before and it was slooow and I could drain my phone while charging it. With the car charger I can stream music with spotify, use the GPS, have the screen on full brightness and the battery % will still go up.
I also bought a new wall charger recently, which is 850mAh on the USB port and has a 350mAh charger for a loose battery as well, works quite nice.
Has anyone measured the voltage or put a scope on the output of the stock charger?
maybe stock charger has a slight variance in voltage over USB chargers or some signalling going on and this tells the N1 to take more current from it?
I would like a solution to this too I've seen my phone discharge while on a supposedly 1A car charger using co-pilot.
SBS_ said:
I have a 900mAh car charger that I use and it does in fact give 900mAh to the phone while charging. I can tell because I used a 450mAh charger at home before and it was slooow and I could drain my phone while charging it. With the car charger I can stream music with spotify, use the GPS, have the screen on full brightness and the battery % will still go up.
I also bought a new wall charger recently, which is 850mAh on the USB port and has a 350mAh charger for a loose battery as well, works quite nice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Forget the numbers on the chargers - what counts is what really goes into the phone and that needs to be measured with a current meter (test equipment). What you may think to be fast might not be that.
Original HTC chargers obviously do the trick of fast charging but this comes at a price compared to the $3-$4 garden variety on Ebay and the likes.
now I cannot help you with the electronics at all, but, my old HTC Touch Pro charger seems to charge the same as the one which came with the phone, is this correct?
(suits me if it is, as then I have a charger for home and work)
my blackberry bold 2 charger only says it outputs 700MAh, but both the google and htc chargers both say 1.0A
dnts said:
Forget the numbers on the chargers - what counts is what really goes into the phone and that needs to be measured with a current meter (test equipment). What you may think to be fast might not be that.
Original HTC chargers obviously do the trick of fast charging but this comes at a price compared to the $3-$4 garden variety on Ebay and the likes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it is just anecdotal evidence as I don't have any equipment to measure it. But my phone no longer discharges when I use it while charging, which it used to do with the old charger I used. So while I can say for a fact that the charger I use now is faster, I can't say by how much (this goes for both the car charger and the one I put in the wall socket).
I ordered this charger a few weeks ago and it charges my phone as fast as the original charger. The label says 5v / 1200mA.
Genuine Nokia Mini AC-10U US Type AC Charger (100~240V)
$7,25 and free shipping. (Takes a while before you get it tho.)
GazzaK said:
now I cannot help you with the electronics at all, but, my old HTC Touch Pro charger seems to charge the same as the one which came with the phone, is this correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HTC Touch Pro = mini USB
Nexus One = micro USB
Not an engineering here, but I am guessing the phone not always drawing more than 500ma may be is to do with the charger itself.
There is this "fast charge" USB standard where a wall plug has the USB data pins shorted to indicate that it is a wall plug and hence the phone knows when to draw more power. So even if the charger is rated 1A, the phone might not know if it could utilize that if those pins aren't shorted. Try doing a quick Google on this ....
If someone can test if the stock charger that came with the phone in fact does have those pins shorted that would confirm part of this theory.
For all practical purpose - I used two cables/plugs with a bench adjustable power supply. Simple micro USB plug would only let me draw 450mA regardless of power supply voltage in the range 4.5-5.5V. Tried shorting data pins - nothing. Tried shorting spare pin to VCC or GND or any of the other pins - nothing.
Used original cable and plug - draws 900mA at voltages from 4.9-5.5.
So it's in the plug somehow.
Tried (very difficult) to see if the pins on the plug are shorted and all 3 spares (except for 5V and GND) seems unconnected.
Next step is the irreversible hot knife...
I'm bugged by this, too. I tested with my desktop dock connected to my car charger (which states 1000 mA): it loads slowly and my battery widget reports USB- instead of AC-charger.
Might it be that the phone tries to load more than 1000 mA at the beginning to be sure that it doesn't overload the charger? And if that fails, it falls back to 500 mA?
Could N1 use a simple logic of:
- always watch the voltage
- start drawing 500ma (or whichever is the lowest current as per USB spec)
- increment in say 50ma steps
- if voltage drops below 4.x V, back off and stay at that level
I just did a little test of my own. I have a Palm Pre car charger (actual Palm brand one labeled as 1000ma output) and I plunged my N1 into it on my way home from work. In twenty eight minutes, my battery went from 47% to 70%. Much faster than plugging into my computer, which is 500ma max. I don't have any fancy test equipment, and don't claim to know a whole lot about electronics, but seems pretty fast to me.
I have a 4-port 2A 5v USB charger, and connecting it to my Nexus OR Milestone with a MicroUSB cable (the one that shipped with either phone, or the one from my Kindle) yields painfully slow charging - it basically won't charge if you are using the phone.
Connecting the Nexus One charger yields fast charging on either phone - so it is not HTC (or Motorola) proprietary.
The Milestone comes with a 900mA USB plug, and connecting THAT to either phone with either of the MicroUSB cables yields fast charging.
I have another aftermarket 2 port 2A 5V USB wall charger (brand: T'nB) AND I have an iPhone USB plug, and both give fast charging on the Milestone, and I have not yet tried them on the Nexus One.
Breakdown (on things I've tried):
FAST CHARGING on Nexus One AND Milestone:
Nexus charger (either in the US (110v/60hz) or in France (220v/50hz) through an adaptor)
Milestone wall French USB plug (which I think is something odd like 850mA at 5.9v) with ANY microUSB cable (in fact, it seems to charge both of the phones faster than the stock Nexus One plug)
SLOW CHARGING on Nexus One AND Milestone:
USB plug on computer
One aftermarket 4 port 2A 5V USB charger (NOT a hub, only a charger)
FAST CHARGING on Milestone, untested with Nexus One
T'nB 2 port 5v 2A USB wall charger
Apple iPhone 1 port 1A 5v USB wall adaptor
Seems found the answer for Fast Charging N1
I had just do some test for Charging N1 With Original AC Charger , Other band USB Charger and PC USB charger.
1. Orginal Charger give N1 from 0% to 100% at about 2 hour and something.
2. The other band AC charger and PC USB Charger can only finish the same job over 5 to 6 hours.
The Fast Charging is Due to 5.1V (Measured at N1) and 5.2V(Measured inside AC charger). 0.1V Drop is due to resistance of USB cable.
The Slow charged is due to 4.8V (measured at N1) and 5.0V (measured on PC USB and Other AC Charger)
i.e. Original Charger mod from 5.0 V to 5.2V (about 10% increase in Voltage)
Looks my theory is correct then ? N1 watches the voltage and if it droops too much, it backs off the current.
So the key would be: get a charger than can maintain at least 1A @ 5.2V, use
a decent gauge, short wire from the brick to N1.
Has anyone tried a Blackberry charger on the N1? Will they work to full capacity as well? (They're on Amazon for a fiver)
Because the nokia charger is working
http://pinoutsguide.com/CellularPhones-Nokia/micro_usb_connector_pinout.shtml
see info under table.
I tested also HP charger + standard USB cable delivered with Nexus, and it is charching cca 1A.
Then I tested one noname Carcharger + standard USB cable delivered with Nexus, and also charging cca 1A.
I dismantle the noname carcharger and here is a result:
data line (pin2+3) is shorted and connected do + (pin1 ,Vcc) thrue resistor cca 630kOhm.
1 - 4 = 5.1V
2,3 - 4 = 3.2V
rashid11 said:
Looks my theory is correct then ? N1 watches the voltage and if it droops too much, it backs off the current.
So the key would be: get a charger than can maintain at least 1A @ 5.2V, use
a decent gauge, short wire from the brick to N1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I try to use power supply 5.2V 2A with cable without dataline (pin 2and3 not connected) and it is charging 480mA only.
I have now tested with an HTC car charger for the HD2. It's fast charging (tested with Waze running, two bluetooth connections and playing mp3 - and it's still loading the battery, whereas before it would be stuck at the current percentage) and even shows AC power instead of USB.
I tried to charge my A700 with a HTC USB charger, but it didn't work. Can anybody confirm that the A700 only can be charged with the original Charger and not with any micro USB cable?
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA
schm1dt said:
I tried to charge my A700 with a HTC USB charger, but it didn't work. Can anybody confirm that the A700 only can be charged with the original Charger and not with any micro USB cable?
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried several ones and none worked.
Thanks for confirming, that's really bad news.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA
But this was well known befor the device was available. This is necessary because of the huge power pack.
The original charger can provide 12V and 1,5 A. The USB specification is only 5V and 500 mA.
Did you try to charge the HTC with the acer charger ? you cannont plug it ! they added a pin
Out of couriosity,
in this preview they tell us it would charge on USB???
http://youtu.be/Zy736u97xJA
Not good News at all, im lucky i did not preordered this device, its a no go for me...
Can anyone try to charge over USB while the device is turned off, maybe this works?
Greetz Tokl
Tokl said:
Can anyone try to charge over USB while the device is turned off, maybe this works?l
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it doesn't take any power from regular USB pins.
One has the choice: big power pack or loading by USB. I prefer the running time of this device.
Edit: Loading via USB would take over 24 houres for sure.
Now I found also 12V/1.5A on the right side of the housing of the A700. OK so USB is not for charging.
Did someone already find a car charger I couldn'd find at Amazon. (or should we discuss that in the other thread?)
Sent from my A700 using XDA
schm1dt said:
Did someone already find a car charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet, I think third party suppliers just need a bit more time.
I have a different experience to your's.
I've tested USB charging with two different USB-chargers. One from Nokia (5V, 1200mA) and one from Samsung (genuine SGS2 charger). Both charge the A700 in stand by mode with about 4% per hour and up to 100% battery capacity. The android battery info does not say "charging" but it does!
When the A700 is switched on my 5V chargers are to weak to charge it.
Shudushi said:
I have a different experience to your's.
I've tested USB charging with two different USB-chargers. One from Nokia (5V, 1200mA) and one from Samsung (genuine SGS2 charger). Both charge the A700 in stand by mode with about 4% per hour and up to 100% battery capacity. The android battery info does not say "charging" but it does!
When the A700 is switched on my 5V chargers are to weak to charge it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice info, but i guess the charging led is off too ?
Shudushi said:
I have a different experience to your's.
I've tested USB charging with two different USB-chargers. One from Nokia (5V, 1200mA) and one from Samsung (genuine SGS2 charger). Both charge the A700 in stand by mode with about 4% per hour and up to 100% battery capacity. The android battery info does not say "charging" but it does!
When the A700 is switched on my 5V chargers are to weak to charge it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Confirmed
I charged my A700 with my HTC USB charger (HTC TC E250) in standby mode this night. It charged from 23% to 64% in about 10 hours. There was nothing at the A700 that showed it is charging.
To be honest, 4% per hour is "nearly not charging".
schm1dt said:
Confirmed
I charged my A700 with my HTC USB charger (HTC TC E250) in standby mode this night. It charged from 23% to 64% in about 10 hours. There was nothing at the A700 that showed it is charging.
To be honest, 4% per hour is "nearly not charging".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is known as trickle charge. The device might charge if the micro USB provides enought mili amps AND the device does not need much power when connected (i.e. screen off).
I really doubt that the device will charge on USB when the screen is on, but on the other hand the device will definitly discharge slower when connected to USB.
I have a small calculation to explain things:
The original charger operates with 12V at 1.5 Amps = 18 Watts (which is not USB compatible so they hat to change the jack to ensure it will not be pluged in to a normal USB device and damage it)
If you would like to have the same Power over USB with its 5V max voltage you would need at least 3,6 Amps. Now that is far to much for those little pins on the micro USB jack and the currency would damage the pins when pluggin in and out.
USB standard specification normally is 500mA = 0,5 Amps ( -> 2,5 Watts in comparison with 3,6 Amps 18Watts)
So I think Acer has done a quite nice compromise.
Hope that clarifies matters a bit.
ninjaw said:
Nice info, but i guess the charging led is off too ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Confirmed, no charging LED with standard 5V charger. Orange LED while charging only with original 12V charger.
mearoth said:
This is known as trickle charge. The device might charge if the micro USB provides enought mili amps AND the device does not need much power when connected (i.e. screen off).
I really doubt that the device will charge on USB when the screen is on, but on the other hand the device will definitly discharge slower when connected to USB.
I have a small calculation to explain things:
The original charger operates with 12V at 1.5 Amps = 18 Watts (which is not USB compatible so they hat to change the jack to ensure it will not be pluged in to a normal USB device and damage it)
If you would like to have the same Power over USB with its 5V max voltage you would need at least 3,6 Amps. Now that is far to much for those little pins on the micro USB jack and the currency would damage the pins when pluggin in and out.
USB standard specification normally is 500mA = 0,5 Amps ( -> 2,5 Watts in comparison with 3,6 Amps 18Watts)
So I think Acer has done a quite nice compromise.
Hope that clarifies matters a bit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks M8,
this cleares things.
Still waiting for the 3G/4G Device here in Germany
Greetz Tokl
On the A510, when charging the battery via USB, the icon does not indicate it.
That must be the same on the A700.
DЯΦ[email protected]П said:
But this was well known befor the device was available. This is necessary because of the huge power pack.
The original charger can provide 12V and 1,5 A. The USB specification is only 5V and 500 mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since USB 2.0 version :
"Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A"
Source : wikipedia.org
Fortunately we are not limited to 500mAh, otherwise we could not quickly recharge our current smartphones .
There are some USB/AC adapters available that put out 2A of juice instead of the typical 1A. For those in the US, check out www.monoprice.com -> they're my go-to source for inexpensive spare cables & such.
It seems that finding a cheaper charger for the A700 isn't a simple task. I had to wade through a lot of cross references with some unintentioned misinformation. First thing was the model number. It's the A510 that is most like the A700 not the A500. Though the A500 does share some similarities it's not the closest match.
When I look for any type of charger, I make sure that the output voltage is correct and the amperage requirements are correct. Looking at the A700's charger, the manufacturer managed to squeeze a lot of info onto it. Amperage is what I always try to find. That is the total amount of current it can handle and deliver to the device connected to it. The A700's charger can handle 1.5 amps. So, the A700 sucks up a quantity of 1.5 amperes of electrons in order for the battery to fill up to it's capacity. That is the load the tablet's battery presents to the charger. Make sure that the charger bought for the A700/A510 can handle at least 1.5 amperes or the wall wart will be OVERLOADED. This is where the charger begins to overheat, smoking warning signals may start coming from the plug and your're asked for a donation for the local voluteer fire department. Besides the voltage which is 12 volts dc, load current requirement is the most important value I make sure is correct for saftey's sake. It is alright to get a charger that has a higher amperage rating but the voltage must be the same, 12vdc for the A700. It just means the charger can handle a larger load.
The only adapter I could find was the original Acer product, mainly because of the unique USB dual purpose connector interface. There is a little diagram of the pinout for the plug on the charger. Using a magnifing glass, I could barely make out the pins the +/-12vdc are attached. Pin P1 is +12vdc and pin P12 is -12vdc. It looks almost beyond a humans capabilities to make or solder together a short plug interface conversion cable in order to use other 12vdc/1.5 A chargers.
I've read in the forums some uncertainty about the proper specs for a replacement charger for the A700, that's why I wrote this post. Maybe , this will help clearup some of the confusion and not add to it. I've also noted a lot of chatter about using a USB cable with the micro USB plug to charge the A700 tablet. Apparently, USB charging can be acheived but it is very slow ( 24 hours or more ) and the amber/white power LED does not indicate the tablet is charging or has finished charging.
If anyone has more info about the A700 charger please reply or post....
Thanks All...
Hi All!
I know that it could be difficult for you to check this Polish site but you can find there a charger that I am going to buy. It has some changeble plugs - also micro usb.
link:
tridex.pl/ramka4.php?menu=towar1&symbol=9396
I think all what you have to do is to look for this kind of a charger - MW3R15GS, btw you can see this name on the original one...
Best regards
Gregork
Acer A701
Save your money and your A701. This thing has only a standard micro-usb plug-in. Check the connector of your Acer charger ... look really close and for better comparison hold a micro-usb-connector from a standard cable next to it. The connector from Acer is longer .. why? because the first row of pins that you can see are not the same ones that fit in a micro-usb-jack. Look deeper into the connector from Acer and you will see a second row of pins.
So if you use this charger with the adapter from that site and set a higer voltage you might fry the usb from your tablet. Sorry to disapoint you but better now than later with a broken tablet.
I'm a soft - not a hard - guy!!
I bought a 2 port, 2A/1A charger offa hee-heebay. I doesn't charge so fast USB specs tell me to short the data pins, on here theres talk of resistor values across pins 4/5.
What do I need to do to get the most current down a USB cable for charging?? Well, apart from holding it in the air in an open field in a thunderstorm.....
Thanks, H.
Just go and buy an original Samsung car charger ... they're only 10 Euro or something like that.
The cheap ones from fleeBay have poor quality components that don't output enough current. I've tested one that from 5.3V on a 0mA load dropped to 3V on a ~500mA load and it didn't got past ~700mA, this adapter was rated 1A at 5V ... and don't make me get started on the safety .
Isn't it ok or simplier just to connect the phone to USB port on the CD Player ?
Yes, you can. but the USB port on most head units rarely have a high output so expect the charging to go very slowly or just keep your battery with the same power level. So a car charger is still recommended if you want to charge your phone fast.
Well I figured it out. Thanks. It might be that shorting the data will do it. The iCharger (tm) I bought has resistors across the data lines, presumably for charging the eyes.
Solution: 1A car USB and Semaphore / fastcharge.
Thanks
Sent from my MOMO9 using xda app-developers app
EDIT: SCROLL DOWN TO POST #12 WHERE I SHOW YOU HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN FULL-1900 mAh CHARGER!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=43663686&postcount=12
-=========================================
Has anyone used this particular item before? Or can recommend a similar hard-wire unit that operates at 2A to 3A?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Connectors-Adapter-Recorder/dp/B00D6B6CJI
I'm thinking about getting one for my SUV and Motorcyle to charge the S4 at normal 1900 rates like the OEM wall-charger. Get that FAST charge.
Yes, I know about cig lighter chargers. No, that is not what this thread is for.
hello did you buy it?
CZ Eddie said:
Has anyone used this particular item before? Or can recommend a similar hard-wire unit that operates at 2A to 3A?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Connectors-Adapter-Recorder/dp/B00D6B6CJI
I'm thinking about getting one for my SUV and Motorcyle to charge the S4 at normal 1900 rates like the OEM wall-charger. Get that FAST charge.
Yes, I know about cig lighter chargers. No, that is not what this thread is for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this hardwired into my WRX:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDL-WaterPr...35?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item1c34627e83
I ran it off the clock circuit (my clock is dead anyways) but any switched 12v source will do. It charges my car integrated Nexus7 without any issues, and at the faster rate.
I have another powering a servo and an aux USB port, but unfortunately I ran so much wire to get it into the center console by the handbrake it charges at USB rates.
paolopaulpaul said:
hello did you buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet.
Caferacer said:
I have this hardwired into my WRX:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDL-WaterPr...35?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item1c34627e83
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that's a great price! Does it charge at ~1900 rates? Here is an app that will tell you the charging rate:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw&hl=en
Just bought this one for $9 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-waterpr...34?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item3a7a051922
It's a waterproof box so it'll be better on my Motorcycle. I'll let you guys know how it works out by next week sometime.
There was a thread somewhere that explained why some chargers won't do the 1900mah charge. He figured out where and what size resistors to put across the wires to enable it. I think it was in a car dock thread, I'll try and find it.
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
CZ Eddie said:
Not yet.
Wow, that's a great price! Does it charge at ~1900 rates? Here is an app that will tell you the charging rate:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw&hl=en
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That app won't show the mA on my N7 but does show it charging near the same % as a fast charger.
MonkeyTime said:
There was a thread somewhere that explained why some chargers won't do the 1900mah charge. He figured out where and what size resistors to put across the wires to enable it. I think it was in a car dock thread, I'll try and find it.
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the shorting/grounding of the data pins that activates 'fast charge' mode on some phones. Nexus 7's and my E4GT (Sprint S2) when I used it didn't require the pins to be shorted to charge faster. Mostly it was the charger (duh) and the quality/length of the cable that affected the charge speed. As well, most of the heavy 1A plus chargers short the data pins in the charger itself so you can use any cable. I believe the S4 doesn't require it as well, but don't have any data to confirm it.
The way I wired mine was to sacrifice a USB female port from a USB extender, and attached the power leads and shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Caferacer said:
shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yours is the second post I've seen where someone has shorted the data pins on a charging-only setup. Is there a reason for doing that?
Ehh, n/m. I remembered the "Google before you ask" mantra...
This explains it nicely:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/194362-wont-charge-over-usb-car.html
MichaelBR said:
There are some reasons why it won't work, and some ways to solve it. First, let's understand how it works:
The USB cable has four pins. The inner two pins are where the data goes through. THe outer, power.
When the USB cable is plugged in to a computer, the data pins are connected normally and the phone knows it can only draw certain amount of power
When the cable is plugged in to a charger, the two middle pins are shorted, and the phone knows that it's NOT going to be sendind/receiving data, so it can draw as much power as it can. That's why it charges faster with the charger than when plugged in to a computer
Most chargers short the two pins. Some cables have a switch to do that.
There are different cable cauges as well, with different power capacities.
Some USB chargers, notably car chargers and some low-end (i.e. not good brand) chargers that don't draw from the car/don't give the phone as much current as it needs.
So, if any of below, the phone won't charge, or won't charge fast enough. Or, worse: it may appear as charging, but actually losing battery charge!
Cable too long or incorrect gauge
Middle pins not shorted for some reason
Charger doesn't deliver enough current
And the solutions are:
Don't use cable extensions, cables that are too long. Stick with the cable that came with the phone or with the charger
Get a good car charger, that delivers the right amount of current
I imagine you just got the cable from your original wall charger and plugged it in to the car charger. If you did that, then chances are the cable is OK, and the charger is the culprit. If this is the case, then get a better charger. Check how much current that charger can deliver. Check how much current your device actually needs.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CZ Eddie said:
Yours is the second post I've seen where someone has shorted the data pins on a charging-only setup. Is there a reason for doing that?
Ehh, n/m. I remembered the "Google before you ask" mantra...
This explains it nicely:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/194362-wont-charge-over-usb-car.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be clear, there is no indication it is *required* for the S4. Mine quick charges just fine without shorted data leads. However I did this because my friends have a variety of phones and it only took a few minutes to do.
Caferacer said:
That app won't show the mA on my N7 but does show it charging near the same % as a fast charger.
It's the shorting/grounding of the data pins that activates 'fast charge' mode on some phones. Nexus 7's and my E4GT (Sprint S2) when I used it didn't require the pins to be shorted to charge faster. Mostly it was the charger (duh) and the quality/length of the cable that affected the charge speed. As well, most of the heavy 1A plus chargers short the data pins in the charger itself so you can use any cable. I believe the S4 doesn't require it as well, but don't have any data to confirm it.
The way I wired mine was to sacrifice a USB female port from a USB extender, and attached the power leads and shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Caferacer said:
To be clear, there is no indication it is *required* for the S4. Mine quick charges just fine without shorted data leads. However I did this because my friends have a variety of phones and it only took a few minutes to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I agree with what you posted in general terms, below is the link to the thread I was talking about. He did some testing and found the pins aren't just shorted, but shorted w/ 82K resistors to get the maximum charging current.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2274321
Will it damage the phone to have a 3A charger plugged into it? Also If it does not damage would it be able to run the camera as a "blackbox" and not die? I currently have a 2a charger and when i use the black box software it dies after about an hour or so.
SUCCESS!
I got the little black box in from eBay.
Gave it a quick/test wire setup. This is NOT indicative of the end result which will be soldered & have shrink tubing, etc.
Okay, first I grabbed my stock S3 data/charge cable.
Snipped off the standard USB end.
Cut off the ends of the pin 2 & 3 wires since they were not being used anymore (data pins).
Then attached the red (power) from the S3 cable to the yellow (power) lead from the little black box. And did the same for the black (negative) leads.
Then hard wired the red & black from the little black box to my motorcycle battery terminals.
On the first test, I only got 460mAh.
Then I decided to short the 2 & 3 pin wires (green & white) on the S3 cable together (attach them to each other). This gave me 1120mAh!
Next I took the tin-foil and wire braid from the S3 cable and tied them together with the negative lead on the S3 cable. This gave me 1220mAh!
Still not satisfied, I then cut down the 5' S3 cable and made it a 1.5' cable.
AND THIS RESULTED IN A FULL 1920mAh!!!! Right on.
That is exactly the same mAh as the stock S4 wall charger & cable combo give me. Very stoked about this. So now I'll do a nice clean install on the bike and then duplicate it for my car dock sometime soon. FULL CHARGE AHEAD!
Crxdc said:
Will it damage the phone to have a 3A charger plugged into it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it will be fine. The phone only draws 1900mAh. If the phone were drawing 3000mAh then there might be a problem.
All done and installed now. And working great!
Negative battery connection (I forgot to shrink tube it but will do that later).
Braided negative wire (~16 to 18awg?) running under gas tank to front of bike.
I wish I would have waited till I got black zip ties in. I hate white zip ties.
The braided wire at the right side of pic that goes up above the gas tank is the pos/neg wire lead that plus right into the phone.
2A inline fuse connecting via blade connector (sorry MC) to a previously used power-on-ignition wire.
This goes to (+) on the little black box.
Note the shrink tube over the braid over the crimp connector (wire goes to top-right of screen).
Phone sitting next to the phone dock I made out of a holster that came with my phone case.
You can see the braided/shrink tubed MicroUSB connector already plugged into the phone.
It's not showing a charge though, because the ignition key is not turned on.
Phone is inserted into stable dock (it will never fall out unless I crash hard).
Ignition is turned on and battery is charging!
And proof that it's charging at the full 1900mAh. Success!
CZ Eddie said:
All done and installed now. And working great!
Negative battery connection (I forgot to shrink tube it but will do that later).
Braided negative wire (~16 to 18awg?) running under gas tank to front of bike.
I wish I would have waited till I got black zip ties in. I hate white zip ties.
The braided wire at the right side of pic that goes up above the gas tank is the pos/neg wire lead that plus right into the phone.
2A inline fuse connecting via blade connector (sorry MC) to a previously used power-on-ignition wire.
This goes to (+) on the little black box.
Note the shrink tube over the braid over the crimp connector (wire goes to top-right of screen).
Phone sitting next to the phone dock I made out of a holster that came with my phone case.
You can see the braided/shrink tubed MicroUSB connector already plugged into the phone.
It's not showing a charge though, because the ignition key is not turned on.
Phone is inserted into stable dock (it will never fall out unless I crash hard).
Ignition is turned on and battery is charging!
And proof that it's charging at the full 1900mAh. Success!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome.
Hard wire phone charger and Bluetooth Receiver to car battery plan...
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
ebrowni said:
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks good to me. :good:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-USB-Ca...064?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51af639938
ebrowni said:
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead. I personally wouldn't wire anything directly to the battery, especially since you didn't mention an inline fuse. Find a switched 12v lead inside the car. Not only does this protect your phone, charger, and car, but it also means you don't have to run anything through the firewall, which is a pain.
You can either tie into the cig lighter wiring, or find something else (I used my clock circuit since it runs to a 10A fuse and is switched).
Caferacer said:
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead. I personally wouldn't wire anything directly to the battery, especially since you didn't mention an inline fuse. Find a switched 12v lead inside the car. Not only does this protect your phone, charger, and car, but it also means you don't have to run anything through the firewall, which is a pain.
You can either tie into the cig lighter wiring, or find something else (I used my clock circuit since it runs to a 10A fuse and is switched).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your clock circuit is switched?
I agree with the firewall being a pita, but I'm not a huge fan of tapping on to other circuits either. With nothing charging, what would be drawing any current? If there's anything, it would have to be minimal. It also allows you to charge a phone/device with the car not running, sometimes very handy (and a modification I've made before for just that reason). An inline fuse is also a must, good point!
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
MonkeyTime said:
Your clock circuit is switched?
I agree with the firewall being a pita, but I'm not a huge fan of tapping on to other circuits either. With nothing charging, what would be drawing any current? If there's anything, it would have to be minimal. It also allows you to charge a phone/device with the car not running, sometimes very handy (and a modification I've made before for just that reason). An inline fuse is also a must, good point!
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, my clock circuit has a switched lead to wake up the clock as well as a hard wired lead to retain the time. Both run to the same 10A fuse.
There is a small transformer in the converter and the receiver bluetooth will stay on. They have a small energy draw which is not negligible over a long period of time. At the very least I would include a dash mounted switch to completely shut the charger and receiver off. For instance I have a bluetooth OBD adapter (Not too much unlike your bluetooth receiver) that drained a 2 year old car battery over a week I left the car sitting while I was on vacation. For day to day driving it's not a problem but my OBD adapter isn't hardwired and I can just remove it when I know the car will be sitting.
Thanks
Caferacer said:
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oooh, good point! Makes sense to me. I have never done a mod to my car's audio system so I'll be paying a professional installer. I'm so glad to have this information before I shop around at the good places here and get some offers!
Thank you!
Hi,
I would like to create list of car chargers that are able to charge N5 in AC mode.
Till now I have found only one review on Amazon on: "PowerGen Dual USB 3.1A Car charger".
Sorry, but I still can't post links.
I want to buy something that works for sure.
So, please share your real life experience...
armourer1 said:
Hi,
I would like to create list of car chargers that are able to charge N5 in AC mode.
Till now I have found only one review on Amazon on: "PowerGen Dual USB 3.1A Car charger".
Sorry, but I still can't post links.
I want to buy something that works for sure.
So, please share your real life experience...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Dual-...5839252&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+usb+car+charger is working fine, it has 2 ports one of which says it is for apple but works just fine on any device both ports charge over 2 Amps.
Ady1976
Thanks for replay,
Can you please Goto Settings -> About -> Status -> Battery Status: and verify that you see Charging (AC) ?
I am also able to charge with old Griffin charger, but it only works with "Charging (USB)" - 0.5A.
Thanks...
armourer1 said:
Ady1976
Thanks for replay,
Can you please Goto Settings -> About -> Status -> Battery Status: and verify that you see Charging (AC) ?
I am also able to charge with old Griffin charger, but it only works with "Charging (USB)" - 0.5A.
Thanks...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, yes it does say charging by (AC)
Ady1976
Thanks a lot !
Now I have one more charger to choose from -
0.5A is USB level so that's why that one doesn't work, anything that charges at 1A or over should be fine.
b1g1an said:
0.5A is USB level so that's why that one doesn't work, anything that charges at 1A or over should be fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My charger is capable of driving more than 0.5A, but the phone don't "understand' it.
Android determines that a charger is a wall charger (as opposed to a computer) by the fact that the data ports are shorted together. Apple chargers don't do this, so most chargers made for Apple products will only charge Android devices at 0.5A. Heck, almost no car chargers do, unless they were made specifically for an Android device. Here's what I did:
I ordered this Griffin car charger, mainly because of the size. It just BARELY sticks out of the car's charging plug. Then, I ordered the Nexus Wireless Charger, and used the cable it came with (minus the wall plug). Presto... Qi wireless charging in my car. The magnets hold the N5 in place nicely so it doesn't slide off the charger in my center console, and the charger I linked easily supplies the 1.8A that the Nexus Charger expects.
The catch is that this charger was designed for an Apple product, so I had to carefully pry it apart and short the center two USB pins with solder using a soldering iron (those are the data pins).
EDIT: I should point out here that the Nexus charger may work fine without shorting the pins. I didn't test it. I wanted the ability to quick charge via cable if necessary, since Qi charging is a bit slower, so I shorted the pins, but if all you're interested in is Qi charging, you may be able to get by without modifying the charger. If someone wants to test this, please let us know.
jt3
Thanks for the info. I have some kind of Griffin charger with 2 USB ports.
So, I will try to do the same - shorten data pins inside the charger.
I will post it works
Just an FYI, I was charging with a charger that listed AC mode last weekend yet it wasn't charging faster than the power was draining.
Not all the AC modes officially charge at a faster pace unfortunately. My Galaxy Nexus car dock charger though did charge it at a proper AC pace.
What took me a little while to figure out is that this issue may not be as related to the charger as it is to the cable. I tried 3 different car chargers and none of them would keep up with GPS battery drain in the car. I figured out that common to all 3 chargers that I was trying was the cable. So I bought this cable and now all 3 of the same chargers work great. I am finding that even at 1.0A you can keep up with the gps battery drain. At 1.5 amps or greater you can charge the battery in the car while using GPS full time.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0088HTYUE/ref=ya_aw_oh_pit
jalanjkcarp said:
What took me a little while to figure out is that this issue may not be as related to the charger as it is to the cable. I tried 3 different car chargers and none of them would keep up with GPS battery drain in the car. I figured out that common to all 3 chargers that I was trying was the cable. So I bought this cable and now all 3 of the same chargers work great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is because some "charge only" cables don't have data pins at all (usually, because they came with a charging dock of some sort, or were designed for devices other than Android). Remember, I said earlier that Android notices that it's on a charger when the data pins are shorted. If they're missing completely, then it will only charge at 0.5A.
My rule of thumb is to stay far - far away from charge-only cables.
I bought a "2.1A Car Charger" with a single USB port (made by PNY....Amazon for about $6 shipped)... opened it up and soldered a bridge between the middle 2 USB pins.
Previously it reported Charging (USB), now I get Charging (AC). Confirmed with a widget that showed charging amps, the number went way way up.
Presumably any of these chargers claiming high-amp output will only work with iDevices, I guess they ignore the USB standard that if the two middle pins are bridged, its a power-only connection and full power can flow.
I did test this on an HTC One X running 4.2 and it reports Charging USB though, so there is a dependency on one of the newer Android kernels (my N5 runs 4.4.2)
Edit: oh yea... with my newly modded charger, I tested turning on Bluetooth streaming audio to my car, GPS on, navigation running, screen on, 100% bright, and wifi tethering enabled, and i STILL had a net charge going.
I've just bought a Blackberry Premium In-Vehicle Charger and my N5 recognizes it as an AC charger. The phone pulls around 1A from it (it's good for up to 1.8A). This is it, though I purchased mine from a local store.