Has anyone put in a separate battery to keep the unit is sleepmode? I don't want to drain my primary battery. btw i have Teyes CC2, but i don't that really matters for this subject.
scottatl said:
Has anyone put in a separate battery to keep the unit is sleepmode? I don't want to drain my primary battery. btw i have Teyes CC2, but i don't that really matters for this subject.
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Click to collapse
Why it's simply not necessary at all. You're doing it wrong.
That is an encouraging answer, if you have a lead on a procedure that will work let me know. I often go a couple of days to a week without driving this car and don't want to drain the main battery. If i go through full startup I don't really have use of the rear cam until i have already backed out.
Seems like simple and valid question to me.
Answer is: usually modern car radios come with two +12V wires, one red that goes to the ACC wire from your keyswitch and one yellow that goes to the BATT +12V (colors could be different, usually this wire has a fuse in it) which goes to the Battery +12V terminal (that's why it needs the fuse).
That wire is the one you should use with your external battery. The other one you can leave as it is as powers up the unit when you switch on your key contact and thus has largest current draw. Don't forget to connect the - terminal of your external battery to the chassis at some point.
Hi there.
I have a question: but the external battery has to be connected to the main battery or at least to the alternator, or else it will be drained by the radio without incoming power, right?
And if 2 batteries are connected to the car won't be too much for the alternator to charge?
Regards
It would be interesting if someone actually measured this stuff.
At the very least check the quiescent current of the radio in sleep mode.
If your car battery is 60 Ampere hour and the sleep current is 10 mA it's good for 250 days!
For extra credit measure what all the other junk (engine computer) in your vehicle is taking.
These units should have 2 modes in settings for "power off" one puts it to sleep after a configured amount of time, the other shuts it off after that same configured time.
Renate said:
It would be interesting if someone actually measured this stuff.
At the very least check the quiescent current of the radio in sleep mode.
If your car battery is 60 Ampere hour and the sleep current is 10 mA it's good for 250 days!
For extra credit measure what all the other junk (engine computer) in your vehicle is taking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That has already been done by several people.
See also my answer in this post.
Battoussai said:
Hi there.
I have a question: but the external battery has to be connected to the main battery or at least to the alternator, or else it will be drained by the radio without incoming power, right?
And if 2 batteries are connected to the car won't be too much for the alternator to charge?
Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed connecting it straight to the car battery is not the correct way to do it.
To be charged by the alternator just like the car battery it should have at least these two thing in the circuit:
- A diode to make sure the alternator charges the battery only if the battery has a lower voltage and avoid any current flowing from the external battery to the car's battery.
- A relay to make sure that the external battery with the diode is only connected to the alternator when the engine is running. You need to check your car's electrical diagrams for that.
The diode needs to be able to handle the charge current for the external battery. This depends on its capacity.
It would be better to use a stabilizing charge circuit that actually regulates the charge current for the external battery. Modern cars have such a circuit built into the alternator but that circuit is based on the car's battery charging requirements, which is not the same as the external battery.
The previous posts and the link provided to others are very useful to get an idea of what type of battery you'd need. Be aware of the differences however as in the other thread it mentioned the discharge of the battery should no be more than 50% to be able to start the car in winter. This is correct but doesn't apply here as your external battery doesn't have the start function so you could actually use a lower capacity battery like those agm gel types used in motorcycles and ups's.
mirandam said:
Indeed connecting it straight to the car battery is not the correct way to do it.
To be charged by the alternator just like the car battery it should have at least these two thing in the circuit:
- A diode to make sure the alternator charges the battery only if the battery has a lower voltage and avoid any current flowing from the external battery to the car's battery.
- A relay to make sure that the external battery with the diode is only connected to the alternator when the engine is running. You need to check your car's electrical diagrams for that.
The diode needs to be able to handle the charge current for the external battery. This depends on its capacity.
It would be better to use a stabilizing charge circuit that actually regulates the charge current for the external battery. Modern cars have such a circuit built into the alternator but that circuit is based on the car's battery charging requirements, which is not the same as the external battery.
The previous posts and the link provided to others are very useful to get an idea of what type of battery you'd need. Be aware of the differences however as in the other thread it mentioned the discharge of the battery should no be more than 50% to be able to start the car in winter. This is correct but doesn't apply here as your external battery doesn't have the start function so you could actually use a lower capacity battery like those agm gel types used in motorcycles and ups's.
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Click to collapse
Just a few words of precaution. Depending on where you mount your external battery, but specifically inside your car, you should use a fire-resistant abs case. I've seen maintenance free gel batteries that are supposed to be "leak proof" oozing their liquid which is highly corrosive.
This post is nonsense and based on flawed assumptions because OP has an issue with HU, wiring or the vehicle.
The headunit does not consume enough to be a problem, PERIOD.
Maybe a small solarcell in the window - to compensate for the drain of power. Cheers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2838867265...ZChPozcPp5V5/8JSXt4ZHHFg==|tkp:Bk9SR_Lq6-__YA
marchnz said:
This post is nonsense and based on flawed assumptions because OP has an issue with HU, wiring or the vehicle.
The headunit does not consume enough to be a problem, PERIOD.
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Click to collapse
@marchnz is completely right. This extra battery is complete nonsence.
If you connect your unit correctly, you can easily last 30~50 days with your unit.
The average anti-marter "beepers" drain your battery in 10 days.
And if "someone" wants to continue with this ridiculous attempt he/she could buy an electrical car. In that case you have a huge battery.
marchnz said:
This post is nonsense and based on flawed assumptions because OP has an issue with HU, wiring or the vehicle.
The headunit does not consume enough to be a problem, PERIOD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
surfer63 said:
@marchnz is completely right. This extra battery is complete nonsence.
If you connect your unit correctly, you can easily last 30~50 days with your unit.
The average anti-marter "beepers" drain your battery in 10 days.
And if "someone" wants to continue with this ridiculous attempt he/she could buy an electrical car. In that case you have a huge battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice way to help someone asking a perfectly normal question. And for those who don't understand this: ANY question is valid, it's answer that may or may not be valid, as is clearly visible above.
Uneducated people that can't read or write (yes, they DO still exist) have more common sense and respect than any of the above answers demonstrate.
lr_man said:
Maybe a small solarcell in the window - to compensate for the drain of power. Cheers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283886726506?hash=item4218f7ad6a:g:6oUAAOSwYdxjAui9&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA8M/0mbxi5yibcvdUqdCKFw2u3VzCvxbs+MuW75IcRurk8OqrGJkk3T/TS6vzz5yW8R4qgMBTaFGbwCp8sno5DxM9DNu6QQzf5YS9h0drfADY1Nte375woSR3k/+Mx8Rm68jOCUe98cbNMDj+UvrvAj+gBvTc6cFoRIV5Xg4dt/TSC/JHKEAX7FuWYV3V0D7d0oTRfHlXuRA/ddvOhZP8SjmAaM6YsaUr+G1iYb5yNqyWthMj6P8cfvEit0xonMV7vrvaV/gOim8EPi3oT+8aNUTxxQIqKrbOhQZoPAyL3wZChPozcPp5V5/8JSXt4ZHHFg==|tkp:Bk9SR_Lq6-__YA
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Click to collapse
Actually that's not a bad idea, provided your car is not parked in a garage.
mirandam said:
Nice way to help someone asking a perfectly normal question. And for those who don't understand this: ANY question is valid, it's answer that may or may not be valid, as is clearly visible above.
Uneducated people that can't read or write (yes, they DO still exist) have more common sense and respect than any of the above answers demonstrate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fallacious nonsense. Can you stop now and stop entertaining nonsense.
Your problem if unwilling to get to the root cause or simply just trying to save face.
mirandam said:
Nice way to help someone asking a perfectly normal question. And for those who don't understand this: ANY question is valid, it's answer that may or may not be valid, as is clearly visible above.
Uneducated people that can't read or write (yes, they DO still exist) have more common sense and respect than any of the above answers demonstrate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Multiple people have already answered in a normal way on this nomal question that this extra battery is not necessary at all. We try to prevent costly and completely unnecssary actions. You sound like someone having knowledge of electrical systems, but have no knowledge at all about these FYT units, because if you did you would not continue to "advice" the OP this way to do this unnecessary and costly actions.
So yes, every question is valid, but not every answer. If you get a counter answer on that invalid answer, you should not blame us pointing at the question. We are pointing at the answer: your answer.
Simply connect the unit correctly and you don't need an extra battery. That extra battery is really ill-adviced.
surfer63 said:
Multiple people have already answered in a normal way on this nomal question that this extra battery is not necessary at all. We try to prevent costly and completely unnecssary actions. You sound like someone having knowledge of electrical systems, but have no knowledge at all about these FYT units, because if you did you would not continue to "advice" the OP this way to do this unnecessary and costly actions.
So yes, every question is valid, but not every answer. If you get a counter answer on that invalid answer, you should not blame us pointing at the question. We are pointing at the answer: your answer.
Simply connect the unit correctly and you don't need an extra battery. That extra battery is really ill-adviced.
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Click to collapse
You should read my answers more carefully, I NEVER advised about using the extra battery. I only responded to the question in the OP.
If someone wants to put extra battery in his car, for whatever reasons, and asks about how that can be done, I respond in an adequate way, bare minimum and some advice on a better option.
I'm not the one to lecture the OP on whether his question is right or not, or whether he should spend his money this way. That's up to him.
And just for the record, I did have an extra battery in one of my many cars, however that was because of a battery drain from an alarm system, not because of the radio.
I won't go into the comment on my knowledge, that's off-topic and won't do any good to the thread.
It would be nice to know what the OP thinks about all of these posts. Since his second post there have been no responses and it makes little sense to go on with a thread that isn't interactive.
Hi,
mirandam is just trying to help and answer the question asked in OP.
Please keep in mind the OP (scottatl) is free and I'm sure is able to judge which answer is the best for him/her.
I can see everyone here is trying to help by answering whether how to install a separate battery or explaining that doing so would be useless, I get that, but whatever the correct solution/answer is, you should all stick to the forum rules (#2 member conduct) and stay respectful.
You can absolutely post here to say you disagree and explain your stuff, this is the purpose of a forum, but please do it according to the forum rules.
Any posts / contributions are welcome here, please carry on.
Thanks
woodman
Senior Moderator
The best way to tackle this problem is to actually measure the standby current needed by your radio.
You can do that with a multimeter in between the permanent +12V wire. That way you can determine what size of external battery you would need.
There are radios that draw just a few miliamps and others to go up to 100mA. Your battery capactity needs to be according to that. For example with lets say 4 mA you could easily use a 7AH gel agm battery.
That battery can be charged with around 200-300mA from the alternator, so you'd need a relatively small diode, like a 2-3A one. Using a automotive relay would more than sufficient (they tend to support up to 30A depending on the size) to do the job.
Even the suggested solar panel would work in such a setup. Putting a diode in the solar panel wire you'd even have an automatic charging either from the alternator or the solar panel, how 'bout that?
If you really want to get wild, you could use a solar energy controller. Instead of using the solar panel input you hook it up to your normal car batter and configure it in such a way that the maximum voltage drop would be like 3 volts (13-3 would be 10V enough to still start your car). When that controller goes under the drop it shuts off the line from you car battery and would switch over to your external battery.
It's much more complex but possible since solar energy controllers have dropped considerably in price.
Related
I think the question may be silly but I want to know the procedure for this. can I run the phone directly by connecting only charger and removing the battery...as I keep for downloads of movie over 3g it drains battery damn fast and if its kept charged the battery looses its power. so plz help me out.
I have been looking for this also, what I feel we have to do is like power the device from the battery port, I not sure how we would do this but a multi charger with the right voltage and amps might do it, I am sure there are repair centres that do this as they would not keep using battery's no scrap that I been to a few and they don't and when you send them your phone they ask your NOT to send the battery with the device, so there really must be away to power the device without the main battery but the phone would think the power source is from a battery.
If anyone as a idea how please drop a post.
Shrihari007 said:
I think the question may be silly but I want to know the procedure for this. can I run the phone directly by connecting only charger and removing the battery...as I keep for downloads of movie over 3g it drains battery damn fast and if its kept charged the battery looses its power. so plz help me out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
besides physical limits power output from transformer/ "charger" is too high and will destroy the phone
"charger" because battery is really charged by the charging-circuits placed on phone mobo
It seems many people use old smartphones for their projects. I wonder how they make it?
I want to ask if it is possible to make a fake battery?
ruscan.calin said:
besides physical limits power output from transformer/ "charger" is too high and will destroy the phone
"charger" because battery is really charged by the charging-circuits placed on phone mobo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please answer if anybody has knowledge about this
Yes
You should be able to remove your battery if you are plugfged into the mains charger and it shouldnt affect you phone peformance i dd this with my phone and i checked the performance with the SETCPU app and it was running brillantly i just set the app to run on full peformance when plugged into the mains and it was brillant.
Shrihari007 said:
I think the question may be silly but I want to know the procedure for this. can I run the phone directly by connecting only charger and removing the battery...as I keep for downloads of movie over 3g it drains battery damn fast and if its kept charged the battery looses its power. so plz help me out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's all about how the phone was build... My HTC Touch Cruise 09 are not working without the battery. I try to start the phone with battery, connect the charger and than remove it. The phone goes off. By mistake, I powered on an LG T300 without the battery, while the phone was connected with an USB cable to my computer. The phone started and worked fine.
So, take your own conclusion...
very helpful
this forum thread was helpful! thanks!
But this works with only some models not every model...is there any specific hardware to do so?
That's hardware related... If it was software related than developers would have done far back...
Any electronics guy/girl here?
Bump... thread into acitivity again... no answer yet. Like to know it as well.
Developers we have enough. But is there a person who has knowledge about electronics, and have an idea how to use , for example,
use a USB 5V without the battery. How to connect wires, what electronics components are needed?
The following website has a way to do it, but it's 12V and one of the components becomes very hot. I don't like that.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-use-phone-without-battery/
Help? Running a smartphone on USB power only would be awesome as a bettery is drained fast if you game, surf on the internet, etc.
My S6312 cannot operate without the battery, somehow the 3 connections have to be connected. But how?
Are the connections the same for example the S7275R?
chihwahli said:
Bump... thread into acitivity again... no answer yet. Like to know it as well.
Developers we have enough. But is there a person who has knowledge about electronics, and have an idea how to use , for example,
use a USB 5V without the battery. How to connect wires, what electronics components are needed?
The following website has a way to do it, but it's 12V and one of the components becomes very hot. I don't like that.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-use-phone-without-battery/
Help? Running a smartphone on USB power only would be awesome as a bettery is drained fast if you game, surf on the internet, etc.
My S6312 cannot operate without the battery, somehow the 3 connections have to be connected. But how?
Are the connections the same for example the S7275R?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am also looking for similar stuff to power my Sony Ericsson W8 Phone without batteries. Kindly let me know know if you have found something.
Huawei U8825D Could Be Run without battery by Connecting with a Charger
To my astonishment, with battery removed, Huawei U8825D could be turned on and operated normally with the charger plugged in. I came across this thread as I was wondering if there are tweaks that could be applied to other phone models to enable this function.
I' not sure if this will help but no harm in posting it so may some one can find the best mod I used a similar trick my symbain and gess it will work fine with any other phone but am not responsible for any side effects or any thing like that...
Recwirment are a battery with the same voltage of your phone ana two wires. Attach the (+) born of battery with (+) born phone same thing for (-) and put the charger and play with your phone as much as possible tested on n8 symbain but not android so be careful about it
Sent from my MT27i using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
I wonder if phones can not work with no battery, how it can be called an accesory. Because accesory is "1. clothing that is worn or carried, but not part of your main clothing, 2. a supplementary component that improves capability". Samsung says battery is accesory therefore changing battery four times can not provide repayment or changing phone procedure. Have they a right like this
It should work by taking the protection circuitry from an old battery and take a power bank that uses a lithium cell and connect the + & - of the power bank to the + & - of the battery circuitry.
This way it should trick the phone into thinking it has a fully charged battery installed, plus giving the extra overcurrent protection from both boards.
I know its kinda late, but I am searching for a topic and this is as close as I am getting to it. So here is my question. I have an LGV10 from Verizon. I am rooted but have no custom recovery. (you can look up those threads about all of that) I was curious about seeing if I could sort of hot swap the batteries by plugging it in and changing them. The phone appears to run fine off the charger alone, but a message comes up on the screen saying battery removed. Shutting down. Is there a way to get around that?
need powersupply with right voltage and ampere
afaik you need a powersupply to do that.
check the battery voltage and ampere.
adjust the power supply to the same volt and ampere.
connect + and - pin, power up the power supply and turn on your phones.
power supply tools for mobilephones arent cheap.
alernatively,
if you have a technician friend, perhaps you can ask him to make a non dynamic power supply nor electric adapter with certain voltage and ampere
For all those still curious on how to run a phone with no battery
Add watch?v=f0IuBld2lzA[/url] at the end of youtube. I can't post links yet. Basically you cut off the end of your USB cable and connect it directly to the leads on the phone that battery normally connects to. Kind of like a universal charger being used direclty on the phone.
I got an idea
Shrihari007 said:
I think the question may be silly but I want to know the procedure for this. can I run the phone directly by connecting only charger and removing the battery...as I keep for downloads of movie over 3g it drains battery damn fast and if its kept charged the battery looses its power. so plz help me out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well battery have some internal registance .
Maybe if you connect a small register between tow nodes of power output of phone, you can possibly emulate presence of battery.
But if it doesn't work then you will facing some circuit failure. All the best . Let us know your result
I'm not sure what the general opinion here is on thread necromancy vs posting something there are already threads on, I'm looking for a good power bank that won't break my wallet- or my devices! Also, thanks for that checkbox warning, I almost posted this in general > accessories! (Where all the other threads I found with this kind of subject were, but... oh well. )
I'm looking at the Lumsing 5X right now... (Google it, I can't post links yet. 11000mAh, $26, 5 USB ports at the different ratings) it's the cheapest one I've found that's actually in a "top _" list when googling for power banks... but still, I'm worried about getting ripped off on recycled batteries ( or a charger filled with bags of sand!), and I'm trying to look into AA chargers, but... well, they're really hard to search for and don't seem to provide any specifications!
Plus a AA charger would be great since I could get an 8-pack of Imedions and use the extra batteries for my other stuff, or a quick battery swap, and easier replacement... Batteries do wear out over time, after all.
But my god is it a pain in the ass trying to find them, let alone ones that have a 1-2 amp charging capacity. or even seeing which ones bothered to include a power regulating board at all! I already got a Rayovac one from walmart when I got overexcited seeing it and made an impulse buy... only rated for 500 mAh, according to the casing upon opening the box. I'll be returning that...
It almost feels like my best bet, if I really want a AA based power brick that bad ( I don't) is to order the regulating circuit and put it together myself.
So, does anyone happen to already have a good AA bank and could tell me what they use? After all, the power brick I linked is the same price as the Imedon batteries alone... I would prefer to avoid paying more than 30 or so for the brick, 40 for the AA one + batteries.
Perhaps the one mentioned, but not by name, in this post?:
Mister B said:
I'm using a 4cell AA powerpack, I use Uniross Hybrio 2,200mAh cells.
Modified it to support fast charge & it work very well & cost me $15 all in, plus recharge cells can be easily & cheaply replaced making it a long term cheap servicable solution and also standard AA cells can be loaded if no main power available ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the Lumising. Thanks for all the help, everyone that replied; I REALLY appreciate it.
I'll report back when it gets here and say if it's poop-tier or not.
Finally drained the lumising.
It powered:
3 recharges of my Samsung Google Nexus (1750 battery) from 15%, being accidentially left on overnight once
1 recharge from red of my 3DS XL (1750) while playing Pokemon X, on the most power intensive settings.
1 recharge of my Nook 1st Edition (1250) from 15%, while reading
I did have some problems with the pack turning itself off while charging my Nook, and the Nook not registering that it's being charged, but that device does have a badly damaged USB port, so I'll let that slide even though I don't have problems with the AC plug as long as I'm careful about the device end of the USB cable.
All in all, I got approxomately 7000 mAh of charge, plus powering the devices' battery usage during the time spent charging. Not bad, when you consider that a good portion of the energy also disappears into the conversion process from the 3.1v lithium battery to the 5v standard USB ports, and then back from the USB standard to the 3.1v lithium batteries inside the devices.
The pack itself takes bloody ages to charge though, and didn't come with it's own charger. But that's to be expected, I suppose. It can only draw 1-1.5a of current while charging, according to the ratings on the brick, so no taking advantage of the full speed of a 2.1a USB wall adapter, if you have one. The short owner's manual that came with it is engrish-y, but understandable, and there are some minor discrepancies in the information stated on the Amazon page, the package, the manual, and the device itself.
For example, it seems to just turn itself off when it has a single flashing light and won't output any charge, but the manual explicitly states that a single flashing light means 10% charge, and that the remaining battery can still be used at that point. Besides that, though, the display from 4 lights to 1 seemed to accurately represent how much power it still had available in comparison to how much I had already used from it. As accurately as it can with only 4 lights, anyway.
An undocumented feature is that the lights will also start staying solid at the same 25% thresholds during charging.
Cosmetically, whatever material the case is made out of attracts fingerprints and skin oils like a high-strength neodymium magnet, and some of the protective plastics are so closely attached they look like they're just part of the case at first, but they mention that in the follow-up email after ordering. All of the edges, including around the on/off button, are a little rough, and the recessed design of said button makes it a bit difficult to press; I have to jab at it with the corner of a fingernail to push it easily; otherwise I'm just kinda pushing on the face of the device while my skin squishes into the shallow hole that the already concave button is in. The pouch is very nice, but it feels like overkill when the device itself is so impossible to keep clean and fancy-looking. Good place to keep all adapters from USB to various other plugs, though.
I suppose that's not bad for just under $27 spent.
Again, thank you all so very much for your assistance in my decision.
Hey guys,
eveybody wants to keep the old tablet, but what about the actual potential fire hazard? I'm sure nobody wants to risk their life or that of others.
So my question: Is the battery a risk by itself? Or can the overheating issue be controlled my reducing the heat inside the tablet (i.e. lowering voltages, CPU frequencies, charging less aggressive, etc)?
I can't seem to find any information about that but I find it hard to believe that nobody actually cares.
Cheers
This page says that there were only 4 reported cases of overheating so far, so I wouldn't worry too much. And even if you are still worried, you can remove the battery and have the tablet only get powered through USB (as it can still make a good HTPC or similar).
Yeah I'd like to keep using the tablet as is, hence the question. In the link it says "overheating due to thermal runaway" but I can't quite figure out why that happens.
Maybe somebody here knows a little more details about the way the battery functions and if it's an issue originating from the battery or just external heat that the battery can't handle. I'd guess it's a manufacturing defect but I hope it's just a "weak" battery.
I'd like to yank the battery and only have it as a TV based system. However when I pulled the battery, the tablet won't turn on. I'm sure I have to complete the circuit. Can I just get a resistance reading from the battery and solder in a resistor of the same rating?
scorpionx said:
I'd like to yank the battery and only have it as a TV based system. However when I pulled the battery, the tablet won't turn on. I'm sure I have to complete the circuit. Can I just get a resistance reading from the battery and solder in a resistor of the same rating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/shi...let-due-to-t3169461/post62305413#post62305413
hansi223 said:
In the link it says "overheating due to thermal runaway" but I can't quite figure out why that happens.
Maybe somebody here knows a little more details about the way the battery functions and if it's an issue originating from the battery or just external heat that the battery can't handle. I'd guess it's a manufacturing defect but I hope it's just a "weak" battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't take my word as the absolute truth, but basically:
Do a search for phones catching fire and you'll see reports of many devices that have experienced it - from Apple to Samsung, etc.
All lithium batteries are classified as dangerous goods in general. (At least in Canada: https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/tdg/lithium-batteries-are-dangerous-goods-1162.html )
When they've been subjected to damage (drops, bumps, punctures, crushed) the risks increase significantly. A battery can short itself internally (regardless if the device it's in is powered on or off or charging; or even if the battery is sitting out loose disconnected).
A shorted battery (not just lithiums for that matter) result in an extremely high current drain internally (mathematically, it would be infinite but realistically that's not the case) which results in extreme heat which can lead to fire or explosion and the release of toxic fumes - the potential for the fire to spread is the real risk. Some batteries simply swell up and fail.
We've seen numerous reports of swelled Shield batteries and a reported 4 cases of fire, 2 of which lead to "floor damage" - could have been much worse (again, just do a generic search for any device regarding battery fires). How many bumps/drops these devices were subjected to is unknown though..
A lithium battery could be considered "safer" once it's been completely drained of energy (and since lithiums are never drained completely, they're never 100% safe; and even then, the chemicals themselves are still highly flammable).
Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using XDA Free mobile app
Thanks for the detailed explanation!
From what you said I would assume that any battery is like the Shield battery with the only difference being Nvidia got cold feet and wanted to avoid negative PR, getting sued, whatever. While I can understand that part, I still have a hard time trusting a tablet/battery that has been declared faulty.
So if its the battery itself then lowering voltages/frequencies to keep the device cooler wouldn't make any difference, right?
hansi223 said:
Thanks for the detailed explanation!
From what you said I would assume that any battery is like the Shield battery with the only difference being Nvidia got cold feet and wanted to avoid negative PR, getting sued, whatever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No.
nVidia has deemed that the batteries ARE defective AND pose a fire risk.
Upon inspection of the batteries, they identified a fault (in manufacturing/workmanship, etc.). They've determined the fault serious enough to warrant a world wide recall of ~100,000 tablets.
You can draw your own conclusions and make your own decisions based on that.
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Does anyone have a source for replacement batteries?
if I approached the ear to the back of old tablet while working (i.e. Antutu benchmark) I hear a noise like that of hard drives for PC. It is definitely the bad battery. No noise with the new tablet. It happens to you?
I think the best solution is to replace the battery but I have not found one with the same size and characteristics.
Inviato dal mio SHIELD Tablet con Tapatalk 2
ivanfix said:
if I approached the ear to the back of old tablet while working (i.e. Antutu benchmark) I hear a noise like that of hard drives for PC. It is definitely the bad battery. No noise with the new tablet. It happens to you?
I think the best solution is to replace the battery but I have not found one with the same size and characteristics.
Inviato dal mio SHIELD Tablet con Tapatalk 2
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No, the sound you hear is the coil whine, not from the battery but the chokes. See coil whine.
All the similar sized batteries seem to be from dealers/manufacturers outside the US and who knows the quality of those. I'm not sure I'd trust a replacement battery anymore than the one that has been working fine for 80,000+ users and myself for the last year. The number of tablets that have overheated\caught fire is 4 of 88,000? That's %0.0000454545 percent of failures that ended in a fire. I am not encouraging or condoning anyone to use a Y01 battery tablet, but as to OPs question I think the risk is pretty low.
scarywoody said:
All the similar sized batteries seem to be from dealers/manufacturers outside the US and who knows the quality of those. I'm not sure I'd trust a replacement battery anymore than the one that has been working fine for 80,000+ users and myself for the last year. The number of tablets that have overheated\caught fire is 4 of 88,000? That's %0.0000454545 percent of failures that ended in a fire. I am not encouraging or condoning anyone to use a Y01 battery tablet, but as to OPs question I think the risk is pretty low.
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CPU-Z reported my battery at 90 degrees Celsius after 20 minutes of Time Clickers. The back of my tablet was beyond uncomfortable to hold but not damaging to my hands and my tablet has heated to the point of shutting down. No fires yet but I'm not pushing my luck
scarywoody said:
The number of tablets that have overheated\caught fire is 4 of 88,000? That's %0.0000454545 percent of failures that ended in a fire.
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I make it 0.0045%. A low percentage but high stakes (bad things happen when houses catch fire, and lithium battery fires can be explosive). Also this is the number that have failed in the first year of life. Subsequent years may have a higher rate of failures as the batteries degrade.
I have a couple phones laying around that after considering all the possible uses for I decided really I just want the battery out of them. Does anyone have any experience or advice on how to recharge them safely once they are removed from the phone? I'm referring to the nonremovable type battery. Im sure there has to be some type of little charger on ebay or an arduino set up that can do this I'm just not sure where to start and given the potential for disaster dealing with lithium I would rather ask for help from someone knowledgeable than stumble along and guess. I carefully removed one from a Note 5 and it has a small circuit board looking thing attached to the top. Is that some kind of voltage regulator or does it need to be removed as well? Thanks for any help provided.
Hi, lately I've been reading articles on different websites about how to extend the lifespan of the battery, myths and truths about charging the phone and all that and pretty much all coincide in the same points, a couple of points being 1) "don't fully charge your battery" and 2) "heat will affect the life of your battery"; so taking the second point as true then it will make sense not to fully charge the battery in one session, which makes me wonder: if I fully charge my phone in 2 sessions will it be beneficial to battery's lifespan (eg: 1st session charge from 1% to 70% then let the battery cool down and then on 2nd session charge up to 100% ) or it's irrelevant and it still would be considered as a "mistake" as per point number 1?
Hope to be clear on what I'm asking and maybe someone can share their wisdom with us, thank you! :good:
ps: apologies if I posted this in the wrong forum.
erikrh said:
Hi, lately I've been reading articles on different websites about how to extend the lifespan of the battery, myths and truths about charging the phone and all that and pretty much all coincide in the same points, a couple of points being 1) "don't fully charge your battery" and 2) "heat will affect the life of your battery"; so taking the second point as true then it will make sense not to fully charge the battery in one session, which makes me wonder: if I fully charge my phone in 2 sessions will it be beneficial to battery's lifespan (eg: 1st session charge from 1% to 70% then let the battery cool down and then on 2nd session charge up to 100% ) or it's irrelevant and it still would be considered as a "mistake" as per point number 1?
Hope to be clear on what I'm asking and maybe someone can share their wisdom with us, thank you! :good:
ps: apologies if I posted this in the wrong forum.
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1 and 2 are separate issues.
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erikrh said:
Hi, lately I've been reading articles on different websites about how to extend the lifespan of the battery, myths and truths about charging the phone and all that and pretty much all coincide in the same points, a couple of points being 1) "don't fully charge your battery" and 2) "heat will affect the life of your battery"; so taking the second point as true then it will make sense not to fully charge the battery in one session, which makes me wonder: if I fully charge my phone in 2 sessions will it be beneficial to battery's lifespan (eg: 1st session charge from 1% to 70% then let the battery cool down and then on 2nd session charge up to 100% ) or it's irrelevant and it still would be considered as a "mistake" as per point number 1?
Hope to be clear on what I'm asking and maybe someone can share their wisdom with us, thank you! :good:
ps: apologies if I posted this in the wrong forum.
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Actually, android has built-in software/hardware that monitors/manages your charging cycle to prevent overcharging and to prevent heat. The real issue comes in when charging and using the device at the same time due to heat generated by the CPU, GPU and the display in addition to any heat that may be generated while it is also charging. The battery management system cannot regulate this extra heat in order to minimize its effect on charging efficiency and it can't control/reduce the additional heat being generated by the CPU, GPU and display. A hot CPU or moderately high temps for long durations isn't good, that heat will eventually begin to cause a breakdown in battery potential.
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