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Battery/Charging Queries

Hello Friends, I have a few general queries.
What is the best method or practice to charge a cellphone battery? Should a user allow the device to completely run out of charge/power such that the device shuts down or switches off? Or should the user make it a point to charge the device once the battery level is between or depleting from 20% - 10%?
Also, does intermittent charging reduce the life span of the battery? The reason I ask this is because a cousin of mine has a habit of charging his cellphone (Sony Ericsson Xperia Mini Pro) every now and then. It does not seem to matter to him if the battery level is at 80% or 50%.
Personally, I have a Samsung Galaxy Note.
Thanking you in advance and awaiting your apt responses.
EDIT
I apologise if this thread is in the wrong section. Perhaps it belongs to the Questions and Answers sub-category of General Discussion. I urge my Superiors here to move it to the appropriate category/forum they deem fit.

YLNdroid said:
Hello Friends, I have a few general queries.
What is the best method or practice to charge a cellphone battery? Should a user allow the device to completely run out of charge/power such that the device shuts down or switches off? Or should the user make it a point to charge the device once the battery level is between or depleting from 20% - 10%?
Also, does intermittent charging reduce the life span of the battery? The reason I ask this is because a cousin of mine has a habit of charging his cellphone (Sony Ericsson Xperia Mini Pro) every now and then. It does not seem to matter to him if the battery level is at 80% or 50%.
Personally, I have a Samsung Galaxy Note.
Thanking you in advance and awaiting your apt responses.
EDIT
I apologise if this thread is in the wrong section. Perhaps it belongs to the Questions and Answers sub-category of General Discussion. I urge my Superiors here to move it to the appropriate category/forum they deem fit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My best experience when first getting a new phone is to do a full charge, then let the battery drain completely, and do another full charge with no intermittent taking the phone off of the charger, after a few times of doing this it should break the battery in.
Though some say this does nothing and is merely a myth - I like to think it's true as I have seen results.

I always do the charge, then full discharge, then full charge once on a new phone. From then on I don't pay attention.
I charge every night over night on my night stand. Then use phone throughout the day. If it is a particularly busy day I charge as needed whether that is the regular charger or cigarette lighter charger in the car.

Thank you icepally and 85gallon for your replies.
After I received my device, the very first time, I inserted the battery, powered it on and continued using it until the battery level was low (somewhere between 15% - 10%, although I cannot remember precisely ).
Should I have plugged the phone for charging immediately after inserting the battery or after powering it on?
Also, I did not follow a practice/order of complete 100% charge and complete 100% discharge.
Do any of you reckon what I have mentioned in the above 3 paragraphs will impact the battery life span of my device?
I apologise for my naive and paranoid queries. I am a noob!
Thank you once again for being patient with me.

You should charge any li-ion battery fully and then discharge completely without interruption as often as possible. Most ppl who complain the most fail to get this. This will give you longer charges by up to 25%
Sent from my LG-P925 using xda premium

Hello Friends, I have installed BatterBatteryStats 1.0.0.0 on my Samsung Galaxy Note.
How do I use this application to serve me better? Also, is the said version dated or it is enough to be used on my device?
After installing the application, I am clueless about its functionality.
Thank you all once again for being patient with my stupidity.

Wipe Battery Stats, is it necessary?
Hello all, I would like to know if it is recommended that a Wipe Battery Stats be performed every time one flashes a different custom firmware and or a custom kernel?
There are suggestive opinions stating that such a practice allows the kernel to 'settle in' (for a lack of a better adjective), thus making a difference in battery life and performance.
Also, an acquaintance from my neighbourhood pointed me to the following article, http://lifehacker.com/5786717/get-b...ted-android-phone-by-wiping-its-battery-stats, which aroused the above query. My device is a Samsung Galaxy Note GT-N7000.
I have not followed any such acclaimed practice till date, and since I am naive and daft, I felt my query will be best answered by the experts on this wonderful community. Thank you all for your patience.

You seriously need to read this:
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries
-- Sent from my TouchPad using Communities

another easy question to ask.........first to do after buy a phone is to drain da battery first, do a hard drain and then charger a bit juz to make sure ur fone can be booted, boot ur fone n do a factory reset, drain it again, simply rebooting n shutting it down to drain it, after that, charger ur fone merely for 1 minute in off mode n boot again ur fone while charger still developing n make sure u close da sleep mode while charging until it fully charged. There u got ur fone fully regenerate da stat without using any software. then u can charger anytime,anywhere n anyplace as android hav excellent battery management.

post-mortem said:
You seriously need to read this:
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries
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Click to collapse
post-mortem, thank you very much for the link to a technical reference. Upon reading it, I have learnt and thus become aware of three important aspects -
1] Never overcharge the battery.
2] Never discharge the battery completely or too low.
3] Power off the device and charge.
:good:
But is it absolutely compulsory to follow point number 3, and charge the device after powering it down?

post-mortem, thank you very much for the link to a technical reference. Upon reading it, I have learnt and thus become aware of three important aspects -
1] Never overcharge the battery.
2] Never discharge the battery completely or too low.
3] Power off the device and charge.
:good:
But is it absolutely compulsory to follow point number 3, and charge the device after powering it down?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would say this is only a real issue if the device has high drain while charging. Like if you charge while on a call, or while using navigation. If you only do such things occasionally, I'd bet that the device will reach terminal utility in some other way, before the battery does.
-- Sent from my TouchPad using Communities

For me, a new phone must be fully drained when used for the 1st time, and charge it for 5 hours.. It's always the common sayings for a lithium ion batteries.. and then after that you can charge the phone whether it's 20% 30%, etc.. then once a week fully drained the battery and charge..

Also. Overcharging will destroy battery integrity. Not like just charging overnight but if you just constantly always try to charge it and leave it charging when full for long periods of time. Its scientific.
Sent from my SCH-I405 using xda premium

post-mortem said:
I would say this is only a real issue if the device has high drain while charging. Like if you charge while on a call, or while using navigation. If you only do such things occasionally, I'd bet that the device will reach terminal utility in some other way, before the battery does.
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Click to collapse
Thank you post-mortem and apologies for the late response. The only activities I tend to perform while my device is charging is, either send text messages or chat via WhatsApp Messenger.
:silly:
whodisname said:
Also. Overcharging will destroy battery integrity. Not like just charging overnight but if you just constantly always try to charge it and leave it charging when full for long periods of time. Its scientific.
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Click to collapse
whodisname, thank you as well. I have always been cautious and have never kept my device charging overnight, and thanks to the informative guidelines provided in this thread, I will always remember never to overcharge the battery of my device.

Hello everyone.
When charging a device, either via AC mains using a travel adapter, or USB, is it a compulsory practice to use the stock original cable which doubles up as the data cable, to do so?
Just as there are after market premium batteries from the likes of Anker and Mugen, are there after market premium cables available as well? If there are, would a single after market premium cable be compatible across multiple, if not all devices?
The stock original cable of my Samsung Galaxy Note GT-N7000 has started malfunctioning. I contacted Samsung India's customer service to enquire about the availability of the said accessory, and upon the customer service agent's suggestion, I got in touch with the local Samsung authorised service centre, where an agent informed me, the cable will have to be ordered and it would take between 15 days to a month, to arrive at the local service centre.

YLNdroid said:
Hello everyone.
When charging a device, either via AC mains using a travel adapter, or USB, is it a compulsory practice to use the stock original cable which doubles up as the data cable, to do so?
Just as there are after market premium batteries from the likes of Anker and Mugen, are there after market premium cables available as well? If there are, would a single after market premium cable be compatible across multiple, if not all devices?
The stock original cable of my Samsung Galaxy Note GT-N7000 has started malfunctioning. I contacted Samsung India's customer service to enquire about the availability of the said accessory, and upon the customer service agent's suggestion, I got in touch with the local Samsung authorised service centre, where an agent informed me, the cable will have to be ordered and it would take between 15 days to a month, to arrive at the local service centre.
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Click to collapse
1. yes
2. not that im aware of, but that doesn't mean there is not. most of them are junk though.
3. you could try ebay. sometimes people sell extra parts cheap, but i dont know how you would tell if it is authentic other than contacting the seller. many of the supposed oem stuff is just aftermarket china junk.

YLNdroid said:
Hello everyone.
When charging a device, either via AC mains using a travel adapter, or USB, is it a compulsory practice to use the stock original cable which doubles up as the data cable, to do so?
Just as there are after market premium batteries from the likes of Anker and Mugen, are there after market premium cables available as well? If there are, would a single after market premium cable be compatible across multiple, if not all devices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It really doesn't matter, as long as it's from a good brand. You're not going to damage anything if you use an LG cable on a Samsung phone. You're not going to damage anything if you use some crappy no-name cable, but you should stick with reputable names just for the assurance of longevity and steady connection (especially if you need it to connect to a computer). If you want to find an OEM Samsung cable, just find the cheapest/quickest to ship, and it'll work just fine.
The actual charger though, can be a different matter. ALWAYS go with a reputable charger, preferably the one that came with the device. But even the latter isn't all that important. Mainly you should worry about the charger malfunctioning and cooking your phone. But if you go with something name brand, it's extremely unlikely that you'll damage your battery.
The stock original cable of my Samsung Galaxy Note GT-N7000 has started malfunctioning. I contacted Samsung India's customer service to enquire about the availability of the said accessory, and upon the customer service agent's suggestion, I got in touch with the local Samsung authorised service centre, where an agent informed me, the cable will have to be ordered and it would take between 15 days to a month, to arrive at the local service centre.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The long shipping time is because you're requesting a specific part with a specific number. Just find yourself the quickest/cheapest Samsung, LG, Sony, Motorola, HTC, or other name brand cable, and you'll be just fine with it.

contrary to what planterz posted, on some phones, newer ones more predominantly, some will not charge properly or as quickly as possible if you don't use the proper factory cable. case and point is the lg g2 i have. fast charging doesn't work with crappy aftermarket or non lg cables.

@Planterz and @bweN diorD, thank you very much for your replies.
I have been charging my device alternately, sometimes using the stock cable of a BlackBerry Bold 9700, but mostly the stock cable of a Sony Xperia E (C1504).
:silly:
The Samsung OEM cable is available for purchase online at Mobile Fun India, http://in.mobilefun.com/46026-samsung-micro-usb-sync-charge-cable-black.htm. But, the shipping charge amounts to slightly above half the price of the OEM cable.
I have also looked at the Belkin MIXIT Micro-USB to USB ChargeSync Cable (F2CU012bt04), http://www.belkin.com/us/F2CU012-Belkin/p/P-F2CU012/, which I am very inclined to purchase.
:fingers-crossed:

Hello everyone.
How can the integrity of a Lithium Ion cellphone battery be tested? What is the apt 'hardware' method to do so? Also, would using an app (software interface) yield a convincingly accurate result?
The stock OEM battery of my device (Samsung Galaxy Note GT-N7000) has begun draining rapidly, and thus, I am keen on assessing its capacity related aspects and diagnosing its charge storing/retaining ability.
:fingers-crossed:
I await your valuable guidance.
:good:

[Q] Differences between a BG58100 & GI39100 Battery? [ANSWERED]

Short but powerful,
Without all the blablabla straight to the point. I got ?fooled? by a phone company 's expert(?) who told me this was not going to do any damage to my phone, and refused me to give me my money back after i found out that the battery was not good(the same as OEM z710e voltage ratings) when i came home.
I have a z710e, it came out of the factory in 2011. Original battery specifications:
m/n BG58100 p/n 35H00150-02M (3.7VDC 5.62Whr 1520mah)
The battery triple checked by "Expert" and sold by him is a:
m/n BI39100 p/n 35H00170-01M (3.8VDC 6.08Whr 1600mah)
My phone model: z710e (PG58130) original battery p/n: 35H00150-02M from 2011.
Next time I'll check this stuff myself and don't let those people do it for me. They either don't have any good batteries for this model and just sell the one that actually over volts your phone. Or other batteries and so had in his mind to sell me this and don't care about it, like "oh well who the heck cares, this person will never find out and will return to me when his phones is death". Well I'm pretty sure that this will not make my phone last any longer than a year / half a year or less! And i still need it for a year or longer if possible.
Feel free to reply, but only if you know that what you are telling is 100% correct. Please avoid non-valid information or answers, thanks :good:
I am not a pro either but this just doesn't seem to be correct. Feel free to correct me, if i made any mistakes.
https://www.google.co.uk/?#q=35H00170-01M+compatibility
If you don't understand my actual question, then I'm deeply sorry. Often my stories are not so easy to understand duo to my bad English.
The question in a nutshell is simply : Will this higher end battery do damage to the phone and is my story right, i mean is this battery not compatible with my model because it can do damage duo to over volting the ma inboard/soc (because of higher battery output ratings?)

NiTrOwow said:
Short but powerful,
Without all the blablabla straight to the point. I got ?scammed? by a phone company 's expert(?) who told me this was not going to do any damage to my phone, and refused me to give me my money back after i found out that the battery was not good(the same as OEM z710e voltage ratings) when i came home.
I have a z710e, it came out of the factory in 2011. Original battery specifications:
m/n BG58100 p/n 35H00150-02M (3.7VDC 5.62Whr 1520mah)
The battery triple checked by "Expert" and sold by him is a:
m/n BI39100 p/n 35H00170-01M (3.8VDC 6.08Whr 1600mah)
My phone model: z710e (PG58130) original battery p/n: 35H00150-02M from 2011.
Next time I'll check this **** myself and don't let those people do it for me. They either don't have any good batteries for this model and just sell the one that actually over volts your phone. Or other batteries and so had in his mind to sell me this and don't care about it, like "oh well who the **** cares, this person will never find out and will return to me when his phones is death". Well I'm pretty sure that this will not make my phone last any longer than a year / half a year or less! And i still need it for a year or longer if possible.
Feel free to reply, but only if you know that what you are telling is 100% correct. Please avoid non-valid information or answers, thanks :good:
I am not a pro either but this just doesn't seem to be correct. Feel free to correct me, if i made any mistakes.
https://www.google.co.uk/?#q=35H00170-01M+compatibility
If you don't understand my actual question, then I'm deeply sorry. Often my stories are not so easy to understand duo to my bad English.
The question in a nutshell is simply : Will this higher end battery do damage to the phone and is my story right, i mean is this battery not compatible with my model because it can do damage duo to over volting the ma inboard/soc (because of higher battery output ratings?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First of all you should search a little bit more to see that the same battery (35H00170-01M) is offered by numerous companies as a replacement battery for various phone models (Titan, Vivid, z710e...) just like the battery from your phone (35H00150-02M) is offered for the same models.
Then, you can find the same battery (35H00170-01M) offered with different voltages, both 3.7V and 3.8V, and the difference of 0.1V will not harm your phone, cause, you can see it yourself, voltage rating for the original phone charger is 5V and it doesn't harm your phone.
And the last, the other data you got for the battery (Whr and mah) mean only that you have battery that should last longer than the original one you have.
I hope I helped...

nlooooo said:
First of all you should search a little bit more to see that the same battery (35H00170-01M) is offered by numerous companies as a replacement battery for various phone models (Titan, Vivid, z710e...) just like the battery from your phone (35H00150-02M) is offered for the same models.
Then, you can find the same battery (35H00170-01M) offered with different voltages, both 3.7V and 3.8V, and the difference of 0.1V will not harm your phone, cause, you can see it yourself, voltage rating for the original phone charger is 5V and it doesn't harm your phone.
And the last, the other data you got for the battery (Whr and mah) mean only that you have battery that should last longer than the original one you have.
I hope I helped...
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Click to collapse
It indeed is, but i have really bad experience with replacement batteries. And those small 'voltage increases'. They end up to die quicker a lot quicker in my personal experience. And i think it is also the reason why, many sellers don't include my model in the compatibility list.The 3.8VDC 6.08whr version is meant for the XL and titan version witch is actually indeed the same but +300mhz overclocked.

NiTrOwow said:
It indeed is, but i have really bad experience with replacement batteries. And those small 'voltage increases'. They end up to die quicker a lot quicker in my personal experience. And i think it is also the reason why, many sellers don't include my model in the compatibility list.The 3.8VDC 6.08whr version is meant for the XL and titan version witch is actually indeed the same but +300mhz overclocked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest I have some cheap s**t called Hinorx Extended Battery that's 1200mah (don't know what's extended there but that's what I got when I ordered regular replacement battery for Sensation) and it works really well, can go up to 25-30h with 2h of screen, lots of wifi (ARHD 7.3 with 1,5MHz o/c).
Don't worry about 0.1V, it means nothing. And for life of battery I hope you got warranty...

nlooooo said:
To be honest I have some cheap s**t called Hinorx Extended Battery that's 1200mah (don't know what's extended there but that's what I got when I ordered regular replacement battery for Sensation) and it works really well, can go up to 25-30h with 2h of screen, lots of wifi (ARHD 7.3 with 1,5MHz o/c).
Don't worry about 0.1V, it means nothing. And for life of battery I hope you got warranty...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It don't has warranty. But it's oke. It is a OEM battery they said. Btw it works fine, only had to use another charger with a output of 1.5a. It would not charge otherwise. But well, lets see how long it keeps working.

Haha it seems to not work charging for 5 hours now and still 0% cannot go in cwm recovery and when it starts it will reboot and orange/green led will blink again. I tried to reboot it several times, tried to clean/bend the pins and all the other tips from XDA forum seasrch results and nothing seems to work.. Great =(

NiTrOwow said:
Haha it seems to not work charging for 5 hours now and still 0% cannot go in cwm recovery and when it starts it will reboot and orange/green led will blink again. I tried to reboot it several times, tried to clean/bend the pins and all the other tips from XDA forum seasrch results and nothing seems to work.. Great =(
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try defferent chargers, stock one should (1A) be fine.

nlooooo said:
Did you try defferent chargers, stock one should (1A) be fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes i did but it got extremly hot so i switched back to the stock charger. And it actually should be fine? +0.1 volt doesn't matter?
The battery does not hold charge at all. It turns on battery level is 0% and will reboot and do orange/green led indication for as long as you keep it in the charger. When you get it out of the charger and turn it on it will go off as soon as android is loaded up intro the pincode screen. Guy at the store told me the led indication meant that the bettery is at an extremly low level of power and that it just needs to charge some more.
Well i have been charging it for like +5 hours now for sure. Using the OEM charger rated at 5VDC 1A. It is not the cable or faulty charger. If i test the output or on my tablet it works just fine. And with the old battery i'm able to charge it, but the old battery is dead, it does not hold load properly anymore. It drops a lot of times from 80% to 1% in like maybe 30 minutes of usage.
Also when using the GI39100 i cannot get intro adb or recovery..

NiTrOwow said:
Yes i did but it got extremly hot so i switched back to the stock charger. And it actually should be fine? +0.1 volt doesn't matter?
The battery does not hold charge at all. It turns on battery level is 0% and will reboot and do orange/green led indication for as long as you keep it in the charger. When you get it out of the charger and turn it on it will go off as soon as android is loaded up intro the pincode screen. Guy at the store told me the led indication meant that the bettery is at an extremly low level of power and that it just needs to charge some more.
Well i have been charging it for like +5 hours now for sure. Using the OEM charger rated at 5VDC 1A. It is not the cable or faulty charger. If i test the output or on my tablet it works just fine. And with the old battery i'm able to charge it, but the old battery is dead, it does not hold load properly anymore. It drops a lot of times from 80% to 1% in like maybe 30 minutes of usage.
Also when using the GI39100 i cannot get intro adb or recovery..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Faulty battery. It's not about volts, it's about bad battery.
You should require replacement or reimbursement.

nlooooo said:
Faulty battery. It's not about volts, it's about bad battery.
You should require replacement or reimbursement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is the second brand new battery the guy in the store put intro it.
Both did the same, it just doens't work.
1. Does not turn on (sometimes when lucky)
2. Holds no charge
I did
1. Wipe battery stats (in the end, like 5 minutes ago from writting. It took me half an hour to get the phone booting while charging)
2. The phone started only twice, now it does nothing anymore (with this new bat).
Also the battery info was all wrong.
When i checked the 1st time when i got it on i went to settings > about the phone > status > batterystatus it did show me(i left it nearly 3 hours like this and still 0%):
- Batterystatus: Unknown <----------------- Before battery stat wipe, after wipe still the same, no power on.
- Battery level: 0% <----------------- Before battery stat wipe, after wipe still the same, no power on.
While it should look like this!
- Battery is being discharged (when not charging)
- Battery level: 93% (old poor battery meanwhile after so much testing already full again)
When i put the old battery in place it works without problems. When i put the new one in it doesn't + battery stats are not even readed by android itself and recovery menu stated a warning. "Warning phone is under-volted" or some message like that. And the LED indicator flash in an unusual way (orange/green) this probably is an error code. Well, complete nonsense because i use the same charger. And the XL version has the same 1A charger, so this makes no sense. The battery is just not compatible.
The battery has been charging for almost 13 hours now. And still 0% + orange/green led flashes.
I have no tools here i had to imprevise with crap, gluetape and a doorbell to get a cracky 5 dollar multimeter working, LoL.
here is the bat output;
a 0.08 v 20 3.52v hv 750 0.07 hv 200 06.8 with other words it should be fine to run and maybe get 50% battery level. But it is still z3r0~ when i put it in my phone.

Topic prefix can be set to [ANSWERED]. The m/n BI39100 p/n 35H00170-01M battery works just fine in the z710e. Confirmed to work, even with 0.1v increase (does not produce more heat or instability, like some cheap fake batteries do without protection IC xD)
I went back to the store they gave me another battery and it instantly worked. So i had two faulty batteries. Lucky me again haha....
Probably or the store where i got it from does not test bats and throws them intro one big box or just very very unlucky.
The battery stats now work, no warning in recovery menu and no orange/green flashing in the led indication.
So if somebody has the same issue as me, your battery is 100% sure faulty. And you should toss it back to the re-seller for warranty or if you purchased the parts loose RMA it.
Get or an good alternative non-oem brand like anker. That is sure to be safe and good of quality. And never use fake chargers from like cheap Chinese tabs or phones. Often they have terrible output and this can badly damage your battery/phone because the output might not be stable enough and drops and increases a lot of times, either using a 2A charger does not make any sense at all. It will go just as fast as a 1A charger because the limit is 1A through(in most phones some can have other ratings). Only thing that can damage your phone/battery is if you go over the 5VDC. More volts = more heat = less lifespan. Amps are taken by the device and volts are given.
Confused
The new battery i have now is a BI39100 35H00186-00M. The 35H00170-01M does not seem to work in a PG58130 z710e or i had two faulty batteries... ?

Mediapad x2 freezing when charging and original charger

Hi!
My x2 started to freeze when charging. I started to wonder if it's because of the charger, because I lost the original one and just started to use a samsung charger I had in the drawer. Although I've been using it for a year now..
If someone would be so kind and post a pic or the details of the original charger so I could try if that would remedy the problem.
Thx

My experience is that the original charger is actually not as good as the Samsung charger by any means. The original charger I believe is actually out putting less than in this specification which is 2 amps. The Samsung charger is much better and charges the phone faster. However I have also noticed something really weird in that sometimes after charging the phone overnight my battery is only at around 80% or so and this is random because it only happens sometimes and most times it charges fully. Not sure if anybody else has seen this Behavior
Please use the QUOTE feature when replying to me to get my attention. Thanks!

So the original charger is 5V, 2A? Thanks. I'll try some other charger. It may be busted. Or I have to do a factory reset and see if that fixes the problem

wikileaker said:
Hi!
My x2 started to freeze when charging. I started to wonder if it's because of the charger, because I lost the original one and just started to use a samsung charger I had in the drawer. Although I've been using it for a year now..
If someone would be so kind and post a pic or the details of the original charger so I could try if that would remedy the problem.
Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, yesterday my 2 year X2 started to do the same. I was stunned when after short time of charging I realised so phone was freezed and got quite hot on the back. Orange light slowly blinking and after restart it was 80% charged. I suppose it's problem with original charger. I have to look for another one...
//Edit - this is not original charger but Samsung - 5V/2A which till now was working without problems. It's not depends on charger type, occurs even during connecting to USB in PC.
//Edit - if you switch off charger and let it be some time, the phone starts anew. But, what is interesting, newly made TWRP nandroid backup turns out to be delted from SD card.during this 'blackout'..
//Edit - it starts occur not only during charging.. But in such case after self-acting restart phone goes to bootloop so it is needed to restart it manually and then it starts realatively quicker than normal.

Hmm.. could it be the battery dying? I'm using simply international B202 ROM. If changing the charger doesn't help I'll flash the newest ROM in and if even that doesn't fix it I guess I'll change the battery.

Same problem on mine but not when charging. Try my LineageOS 13 ROM, it's faster than EMUI and should make the phone feel faster again. I think Huawei is pulling an Apple and slowing our phones down as the battery dies.

I did a TWRP factory reset and the problem vanished! Hope it won't come back.. I'll try your lineage ajsmsg78 if necessary thx for the tip and all your work!

I have been having very unusual battery issues lately and I do not think it has to do with the charger at all but rather the physical battery itself.
Symptom 1: After charging overnight, by battery is only approx 79% charged
Symptom 2: Battery does MUCH quicker
Symptom 3: When battery gets to approx 20% it does right away giving the popup message that the battery is dead and the phone will turn off in 30 seconds - sounds like defective cell
Symptom 4: Putting the phone on charger when battery is critically low (10%) for 3 minutes, the battery level jumps to 90%
Does anyone know where we can buy a GOOD QUALITY battery to replace for the X2? I know there are some links on AliExpress but I do not know if I can trust those aftermarket batteries in terms of quality and life and reliability.
Also does anyone know how easy it is to replace? I have good soldering skills but don't know if here is more involved than that.
Edit: In the unlikely event that this is a software issue, I might try to clear my "batterystats.bin" file.
Please use the QUOTE feature when replying to me to get my attention. Thanks!

Unfortunately all those symptoms talk about battery dying state...
---------- Post added at 09:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:48 AM ----------
wikileaker said:
I did a TWRP factory reset and the problem vanished! Hope it won't come back.. I'll try your lineage ajsmsg78 if necessary thx for the tip and all your work!
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I thought about it either so will try it soon. Maybe switch to Lineage OS but I greatly appreciate smart case function in EMUI...

Does anyone know where we can buy a GOOD QUALITY battery to replace for the X2? I know there are some links on AliExpress but I do not know if I can trust those aftermarket batteries in terms of quality and life and reliability.
Also does anyone know how easy it is to replace? I have good soldering skills but don't know if here is more involved than that.
@ajsmsg78 @trurl3
Please use the QUOTE feature when replying to me to get my attention. Thanks!

E--Man said:
Does anyone know where we can buy a GOOD QUALITY battery to replace for the X2? I know there are some links on AliExpress but I do not know if I can trust those aftermarket batteries in terms of quality and life and reliability.
Also does anyone know how easy it is to replace? I have good soldering skills but don't know if here is more involved than that.
@ajsmsg78 @trurl3
Please use the QUOTE feature when replying to me to get my attention. Thanks!
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I took apart a Mate 9 and replaced some insides and it was really easy. The X2 shouldn't be any different. You don't have to solder anything, just pull up the flex cable connecting the battery to the motherboard and then pull on the tab on the bottom of the battery to remove the sticky tape underneath it then use some force to pull it up. I only see aftermarket batteries for the X2 so you may not have any other choice but to buy one of those. Your battery is definitely dying though.

Best way to protect/ensure longer lasting phone and battery with Android?

Just bought a Galaxy 21 FE edition (whatever that means..) and since the phone is fresh and new, along with the charger, I was curious as to what are some of the best ways to preserve things like battery life, charge ports, cables for the charger https://9apps.ooo/, just general care that people do that may go over the top to protect and keep their phone running in top shape for longer, thanks

Don't use it.

00luyan said:
Just bought a Galaxy 21 FE edition (whatever that means..) and since the phone is fresh and new, along with the charger, I was curious as to what are some of the best ways to preserve things like battery life, charge ports, cables for the charger, just general care that people do that may go over the top to protect and keep their phone running in top shape for longer, thanks
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well, simple. i got a couple of rules :
1. always charge it in ultra/maximum power saving mode. charges the fastest, it does not heats up at all
1b. dont play games or use anything battery strenuous while charging.
2. use a magnetic cable with a magnetic port. the magnetic port closes the usb type c port from my phone, thus no dust can set in the port. trust me, i had removed quite a bit of dust from some of my previous phones.
3. keep the phone internal storage as light as ever. dont fill it with junk, use the microsd card for that.
3+ original battery and counting. still holds for 2 days. my oldest device, a Transformer EEE Prime (11 years old) still holds a charge and can get through a day.

xXx yYy said:
Don't use it.
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funny that they ve been reports that not using the device actually kills the battery as well

Fytdyh said:
funny that they ve been reports that not using the device actually kills the battery as well
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Correct: Each battery automatically discharges itself over the time continuously by a certain percentage ( ~10% per month ). This process can be decelerated by storing the battery (the phone) in the refrigerator.

Stephanuscoontz said:
1. continuously charge it in ultra/greatest power saving mode. charges the quickest, it doesn't warms up by any means
1b. dont mess around or use anything battery exhausting while at the same time charging.
2. utilize an attractive link with an attractive port. the attractive port shuts the usb type c port from my telephone, in this way no residue can set in the port. trust me, I had eliminated a lot of residue from a portion of my past telephones.
3. keep the telephone inward capacity as light as could be expected. dont fill it with garbage, utilize the microsd card for that.
3+ unique battery and then some. still holds for 2 days. my most seasoned gadget, a Transformer EEE Prime (11 years of age) actually holds a charge and can get past daily.
please contact me here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/best-way-dorado manana-to-protect-ensure-longer-lasting-phone-and-battery-with-android.4508167/
thanks.
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Mate, where are my credits? You just copied my post and made a few alterations.

Question Separate battery to power head unit for quicker startup

Has anyone put in a separate battery to keep the unit is sleepmode? I don't want to drain my primary battery. btw i have Teyes CC2, but i don't that really matters for this subject.

scottatl said:
Has anyone put in a separate battery to keep the unit is sleepmode? I don't want to drain my primary battery. btw i have Teyes CC2, but i don't that really matters for this subject.
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Why it's simply not necessary at all. You're doing it wrong.

That is an encouraging answer, if you have a lead on a procedure that will work let me know. I often go a couple of days to a week without driving this car and don't want to drain the main battery. If i go through full startup I don't really have use of the rear cam until i have already backed out.

Seems like simple and valid question to me.
Answer is: usually modern car radios come with two +12V wires, one red that goes to the ACC wire from your keyswitch and one yellow that goes to the BATT +12V (colors could be different, usually this wire has a fuse in it) which goes to the Battery +12V terminal (that's why it needs the fuse).
That wire is the one you should use with your external battery. The other one you can leave as it is as powers up the unit when you switch on your key contact and thus has largest current draw. Don't forget to connect the - terminal of your external battery to the chassis at some point.

Hi there.
I have a question: but the external battery has to be connected to the main battery or at least to the alternator, or else it will be drained by the radio without incoming power, right?
And if 2 batteries are connected to the car won't be too much for the alternator to charge?
Regards

It would be interesting if someone actually measured this stuff.
At the very least check the quiescent current of the radio in sleep mode.
If your car battery is 60 Ampere hour and the sleep current is 10 mA it's good for 250 days!
For extra credit measure what all the other junk (engine computer) in your vehicle is taking.

These units should have 2 modes in settings for "power off" one puts it to sleep after a configured amount of time, the other shuts it off after that same configured time.

Renate said:
It would be interesting if someone actually measured this stuff.
At the very least check the quiescent current of the radio in sleep mode.
If your car battery is 60 Ampere hour and the sleep current is 10 mA it's good for 250 days!
For extra credit measure what all the other junk (engine computer) in your vehicle is taking.
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That has already been done by several people.
See also my answer in this post.

Battoussai said:
Hi there.
I have a question: but the external battery has to be connected to the main battery or at least to the alternator, or else it will be drained by the radio without incoming power, right?
And if 2 batteries are connected to the car won't be too much for the alternator to charge?
Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed connecting it straight to the car battery is not the correct way to do it.
To be charged by the alternator just like the car battery it should have at least these two thing in the circuit:
- A diode to make sure the alternator charges the battery only if the battery has a lower voltage and avoid any current flowing from the external battery to the car's battery.
- A relay to make sure that the external battery with the diode is only connected to the alternator when the engine is running. You need to check your car's electrical diagrams for that.
The diode needs to be able to handle the charge current for the external battery. This depends on its capacity.
It would be better to use a stabilizing charge circuit that actually regulates the charge current for the external battery. Modern cars have such a circuit built into the alternator but that circuit is based on the car's battery charging requirements, which is not the same as the external battery.
The previous posts and the link provided to others are very useful to get an idea of what type of battery you'd need. Be aware of the differences however as in the other thread it mentioned the discharge of the battery should no be more than 50% to be able to start the car in winter. This is correct but doesn't apply here as your external battery doesn't have the start function so you could actually use a lower capacity battery like those agm gel types used in motorcycles and ups's.

mirandam said:
Indeed connecting it straight to the car battery is not the correct way to do it.
To be charged by the alternator just like the car battery it should have at least these two thing in the circuit:
- A diode to make sure the alternator charges the battery only if the battery has a lower voltage and avoid any current flowing from the external battery to the car's battery.
- A relay to make sure that the external battery with the diode is only connected to the alternator when the engine is running. You need to check your car's electrical diagrams for that.
The diode needs to be able to handle the charge current for the external battery. This depends on its capacity.
It would be better to use a stabilizing charge circuit that actually regulates the charge current for the external battery. Modern cars have such a circuit built into the alternator but that circuit is based on the car's battery charging requirements, which is not the same as the external battery.
The previous posts and the link provided to others are very useful to get an idea of what type of battery you'd need. Be aware of the differences however as in the other thread it mentioned the discharge of the battery should no be more than 50% to be able to start the car in winter. This is correct but doesn't apply here as your external battery doesn't have the start function so you could actually use a lower capacity battery like those agm gel types used in motorcycles and ups's.
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Just a few words of precaution. Depending on where you mount your external battery, but specifically inside your car, you should use a fire-resistant abs case. I've seen maintenance free gel batteries that are supposed to be "leak proof" oozing their liquid which is highly corrosive.

This post is nonsense and based on flawed assumptions because OP has an issue with HU, wiring or the vehicle.
The headunit does not consume enough to be a problem, PERIOD.

Maybe a small solarcell in the window - to compensate for the drain of power. Cheers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2838867265...ZChPozcPp5V5/8JSXt4ZHHFg==|tkp:Bk9SR_Lq6-__YA

marchnz said:
This post is nonsense and based on flawed assumptions because OP has an issue with HU, wiring or the vehicle.
The headunit does not consume enough to be a problem, PERIOD.
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@marchnz is completely right. This extra battery is complete nonsence.
If you connect your unit correctly, you can easily last 30~50 days with your unit.
The average anti-marter "beepers" drain your battery in 10 days.
And if "someone" wants to continue with this ridiculous attempt he/she could buy an electrical car. In that case you have a huge battery.

marchnz said:
This post is nonsense and based on flawed assumptions because OP has an issue with HU, wiring or the vehicle.
The headunit does not consume enough to be a problem, PERIOD.
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surfer63 said:
@marchnz is completely right. This extra battery is complete nonsence.
If you connect your unit correctly, you can easily last 30~50 days with your unit.
The average anti-marter "beepers" drain your battery in 10 days.
And if "someone" wants to continue with this ridiculous attempt he/she could buy an electrical car. In that case you have a huge battery.
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Click to collapse
Nice way to help someone asking a perfectly normal question. And for those who don't understand this: ANY question is valid, it's answer that may or may not be valid, as is clearly visible above.
Uneducated people that can't read or write (yes, they DO still exist) have more common sense and respect than any of the above answers demonstrate.

lr_man said:
Maybe a small solarcell in the window - to compensate for the drain of power. Cheers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283886726506?hash=item4218f7ad6a:g:6oUAAOSwYdxjAui9&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA8M/0mbxi5yibcvdUqdCKFw2u3VzCvxbs+MuW75IcRurk8OqrGJkk3T/TS6vzz5yW8R4qgMBTaFGbwCp8sno5DxM9DNu6QQzf5YS9h0drfADY1Nte375woSR3k/+Mx8Rm68jOCUe98cbNMDj+UvrvAj+gBvTc6cFoRIV5Xg4dt/TSC/JHKEAX7FuWYV3V0D7d0oTRfHlXuRA/ddvOhZP8SjmAaM6YsaUr+G1iYb5yNqyWthMj6P8cfvEit0xonMV7vrvaV/gOim8EPi3oT+8aNUTxxQIqKrbOhQZoPAyL3wZChPozcPp5V5/8JSXt4ZHHFg==|tkp:Bk9SR_Lq6-__YA
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Actually that's not a bad idea, provided your car is not parked in a garage.

mirandam said:
Nice way to help someone asking a perfectly normal question. And for those who don't understand this: ANY question is valid, it's answer that may or may not be valid, as is clearly visible above.
Uneducated people that can't read or write (yes, they DO still exist) have more common sense and respect than any of the above answers demonstrate.
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Click to collapse
Fallacious nonsense. Can you stop now and stop entertaining nonsense.
Your problem if unwilling to get to the root cause or simply just trying to save face.

mirandam said:
Nice way to help someone asking a perfectly normal question. And for those who don't understand this: ANY question is valid, it's answer that may or may not be valid, as is clearly visible above.
Uneducated people that can't read or write (yes, they DO still exist) have more common sense and respect than any of the above answers demonstrate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Multiple people have already answered in a normal way on this nomal question that this extra battery is not necessary at all. We try to prevent costly and completely unnecssary actions. You sound like someone having knowledge of electrical systems, but have no knowledge at all about these FYT units, because if you did you would not continue to "advice" the OP this way to do this unnecessary and costly actions.
So yes, every question is valid, but not every answer. If you get a counter answer on that invalid answer, you should not blame us pointing at the question. We are pointing at the answer: your answer.
Simply connect the unit correctly and you don't need an extra battery. That extra battery is really ill-adviced.

surfer63 said:
Multiple people have already answered in a normal way on this nomal question that this extra battery is not necessary at all. We try to prevent costly and completely unnecssary actions. You sound like someone having knowledge of electrical systems, but have no knowledge at all about these FYT units, because if you did you would not continue to "advice" the OP this way to do this unnecessary and costly actions.
So yes, every question is valid, but not every answer. If you get a counter answer on that invalid answer, you should not blame us pointing at the question. We are pointing at the answer: your answer.
Simply connect the unit correctly and you don't need an extra battery. That extra battery is really ill-adviced.
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You should read my answers more carefully, I NEVER advised about using the extra battery. I only responded to the question in the OP.
If someone wants to put extra battery in his car, for whatever reasons, and asks about how that can be done, I respond in an adequate way, bare minimum and some advice on a better option.
I'm not the one to lecture the OP on whether his question is right or not, or whether he should spend his money this way. That's up to him.
And just for the record, I did have an extra battery in one of my many cars, however that was because of a battery drain from an alarm system, not because of the radio.
I won't go into the comment on my knowledge, that's off-topic and won't do any good to the thread.
It would be nice to know what the OP thinks about all of these posts. Since his second post there have been no responses and it makes little sense to go on with a thread that isn't interactive.

Hi,
mirandam is just trying to help and answer the question asked in OP.
Please keep in mind the OP (scottatl) is free and I'm sure is able to judge which answer is the best for him/her.
I can see everyone here is trying to help by answering whether how to install a separate battery or explaining that doing so would be useless, I get that, but whatever the correct solution/answer is, you should all stick to the forum rules (#2 member conduct) and stay respectful.
You can absolutely post here to say you disagree and explain your stuff, this is the purpose of a forum, but please do it according to the forum rules.
Any posts / contributions are welcome here, please carry on.
Thanks
woodman
Senior Moderator

The best way to tackle this problem is to actually measure the standby current needed by your radio.
You can do that with a multimeter in between the permanent +12V wire. That way you can determine what size of external battery you would need.
There are radios that draw just a few miliamps and others to go up to 100mA. Your battery capactity needs to be according to that. For example with lets say 4 mA you could easily use a 7AH gel agm battery.
That battery can be charged with around 200-300mA from the alternator, so you'd need a relatively small diode, like a 2-3A one. Using a automotive relay would more than sufficient (they tend to support up to 30A depending on the size) to do the job.
Even the suggested solar panel would work in such a setup. Putting a diode in the solar panel wire you'd even have an automatic charging either from the alternator or the solar panel, how 'bout that?
If you really want to get wild, you could use a solar energy controller. Instead of using the solar panel input you hook it up to your normal car batter and configure it in such a way that the maximum voltage drop would be like 3 volts (13-3 would be 10V enough to still start your car). When that controller goes under the drop it shuts off the line from you car battery and would switch over to your external battery.
It's much more complex but possible since solar energy controllers have dropped considerably in price.