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Hi!
Long ago, I owned a Benq E72 that my wife washed out. I tried to dry it up and it worked for a while. Then it died...but I never threw it out I just had the feeling that it was the battery.
You see,the phone or accesories are not sold where I live nor I have a way to purchase online, so I tried to hack every single battery that laid on my hands.
Last night I got a generic mp4 battery to power up the phone, but it turns out I cannot charge it .
If the "SERVICE" pin on the battery is not making contact, I get an "invalid battery" message after about 30 sec of charge and it stops. Otherwise the error reads "battery temperature too low,aborting"
As you can imagine I can not spend anytime checking the unit so I am asking you if you know how can I either force the unit to ignore the battery status or fake whatever temp the unit needs on the battery.
Thanks in advance!
If you still have the old battery, try to get that charged with a charger that is not caring about the temperature sensor (simple universal 2-pin LiIon charger). It may just be that the E72 is too sensible.
If that does not work, then cut it apart and replace the circuitry of the original one with that of a replacement battery. Chemically there is hardly a difference and only the protection unit and access to the temperature sensor is different for each battery. More advanced (or bigger) batteries may even have digital circuits built in to identify the battery (like in a laptop), but for mobile phones I guess that things are quite simple.
Be warned: Messing with circuit protection may get the battery on fire or explode, so only do that if you know how to supervise the first full charge.
Hi tobbie! Thank you so much for the reply.
I still have the original battery but I am not sure if it will hold a charge.
When the phone got washed, I spent an hour tearing the unit apart and drying it up but forgot about the battery. Then I realized my mistake.
I dried it up and it worked for a couple of hours. Then the phone started to go off on its own.
It got to the point where if you hit the power button, the SMS and power LEDS start blinking non stop, like it tries to go on but can't.
I will do some more research on your tips, they are quite helpful!
Thanks again
You should really be sure that no whatsoever residues are left in phone after the washing (and drying) process. I would take apart the phone completely and clean all parts of it from e.g. left over detergent.
It is much more probable that the phone has a damage than the battery. Circuitry in the battery is quite robust compared to the complex electronic in the mobile phone.
My battery died almost a year ago, since that I'm using something practical but not very appropriate
I used a Samsung AB553446BU (3.7v 1000mAh battery) and a pair of thin wires. Following the polarity of the pins on the phone, I put the Samsung battery and secured it with a piece of paper. As I said before, it's not appropriate but it really does its job!. If you can not solve your problem, try to do something similar if you get a battery that is compatible with the BenQ E72, the battery I'm using has given me no problems I can even charge it from the phone without having to use a universal charger. I'm not having "Invalid battery" messages or "High/Low temperature" warnings.
But as tobbbie said, "It's much more probable that the phone has a damage than the battery".
Oh wow! tobbie AND nickleby helping me in the same thread, what an honor!
I did exactly what you did nickleby! But mine is not that fancy, more like thin copper wire taped to the battery
The phone seems to be OK, I left it overnight and it did not go out (when the old battery dried up and worked, it will stay on for no more than 4-6 hs).
I am 100% sure the phone and battery are dried and clean, the "incident" happened at least 3 months ago.
I am pretty sure I can get your battery model for a few bucks right where I live.
Although I currently own an android tablet, I really miss having my WM smartphone
One more time, thank you guys for all the help!!
Getting the Samsung battery prooved to be impossible.
I was not able to find a 1000mah samsung compatible battery in the whole city.
I did however found 960mah batteries that were compatible with the same models.
Originals were almost as expensive as a basic phone, so I opted for a Chinese knockoff which I just managed to install.
The original charger won't charge it, neither will some other chinese USB chargers, but a USB port is doing the job just fine.
I am so happy to have my WM6 phone back
I was using an LG kp110 which I accidenally fried in a pool, and had to use a Siemens A31 for more than a month!
Thank you guys!
Would it be possible do modify the Photon Q's battery at all? Like replace it with a RAZR MAXX HD's battery? I can't find dimensions on either battery or anything like that.
I was also wondering if it'd be possible to maybe take apart a battery (perhaps two Photon Q batteries) and somehow put them all in sequence and have it work like that. I'm a noob when it comes to these types of things. Any help is greatly appreciated!
You would have to get the measurements of both batteries and compare the sizes to see if the RAZR batt will fit. It looks to be the same voltage and chemistry.
You cant use multiple cells without special circuitry for charging. The best option is to find a larger cell of the same chemistry and voltage then mod the phone to hold it. Also, you would probably have to sacrifice a working battery to get the connector.
I added a larger cell to my Motorola Triumph
androidforums.com/showthread.php?t=763108
Sent from my XT897
mozzwald said:
You would have to get the measurements of both batteries and compare the sizes to see if the RAZR batt will fit. It looks to be the same voltage and chemistry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not easy to get that info, but looks like the RAZR battery, altough surely electrically compatible is not the same size.
Razer's one is 1.5 cm longer, and is also narrower.
You cant use multiple cells without special circuitry for charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, surely you can't put two "smart" batteries in parallel from the outside, but it's feasible opening the battery and connecting properly the cells, internally.
But this must be done by someone who really knows what should be done, to avoid risky situations.
You can connect multiple cells in parallel but it's not a good idea without a proper circuit to charge the cells. Over time the cells will need charged at different rates.
Sent from my XT897
mozzwald said:
You can connect multiple cells in parallel but it's not a good idea without a proper circuit to charge the cells. Over time the cells will need charged at different rates.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On small batteries like the one you can find on a cellphone "Proper circuit" could be just a couple of resistors to balance the "neighbor" cells.
I'ts way different on bigger batteries, like notebooks' or electric cars' ones.
Given the increased energy stored (and the increased risk) in the latter cases the charging circuitry checks every single cell, not the whole battery as happens on cellphones.
So doubling the capacity of such batteries is a completely different matter, a complete redesign of the charging circuitry (and battery firmware) is needed.
Alright, so I'm pretty sure I've this all figured out except for one thing. What the crap is this green..... thing on the back of the battery? It's like superglued onto it and I'm thinking it's an antenna of some kind, perhaps for NFC.
BUT, I can basically just connect the RAZR Maxx battery like this to mah phone I'm thinking. (see image)
goldbolt said:
Alright, so I'm pretty sure I've this all figured out except for one thing. What the crap is this green..... thing on the back of the battery? It's like superglued onto it and I'm thinking it's an antenna of some kind, perhaps for NFC.
BUT, I can basically just connect the RAZR Maxx battery like this to mah phone I'm thinking. (see image)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EB40 (Razr Maxx) and EB41 (Photon Q/Droid 4) batteries have completely different dimensions.
kabaldan said:
EB40 and EB41 have completely different dimensions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I know this. I'll just wire it like in my image similar to what the other dude in this thread did with his Triumph.
This is why I wish Samsung would've made an S3 slider.
goldbolt said:
Yeah, I know this. I'll just wire it like in my image similar to what the other dude in this thread did with his Triumph.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wiring a different battery is definitely possible.
I did it on a HD2 clone, using a Mugen battery meant for the Palm PRE.
The hardest part is to find a battery with the correct dimensions, usually find the right one is just matter of luck, given is hard to know the exact dimensions of a battery before buying it.
There's finally an extended battery (3800mAh) available for Droid 4.
(Droid 4 comes with the same EB41 battery as Photon Q).
So there's a battery that should fit (apart from its thickness, obviously).
The main issue is that there's no back cover for Photon Q to fit this battery.
http://mugen.co/motorola/verizon-mo...rizon-motorola-droid-4-with-battery-door.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360809183555
We need 3d printer for back covers!
Or just wait a few month, I think that the back cover will come for the XT897.
kabaldan said:
The main issue is that there's no back cover for Photon Q to fit this battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The main issua, as usual for the mugen batteries, is the price.
89$ is more than what I paid the whole Photon Q.
Or, if you prefer, is 15x the price of the original extended motorola battery I'm using on the Phonton 4G
i just wrote to mugen power an email and asked if there is the possibility for a extended battery, as the droid 4 battery fits in the photon and only a bigger backcover is needed. this is what they replayed to me:
Thank you for your email!
I will pass it to our technology and marketing group to see will them make the cover for photon Q.
Will let you know later!
Please contact me if you need any additional info.
Best Regards,
Jan
http://mugen.co
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so maybe we have some luck
pujdo1 said:
i just wrote to mugen power an email and asked if there is the possibility for a extended battery, as the droid 4 battery fits in the photon and only a bigger backcover is needed. this is what they replayed to me:
so maybe we have some luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just got a Photon Q so I would certainly love if they made a back cover but am doubting they will. Thought of just buying a second cover on ebay and cutting it / using some epoxy to make my own with the Droid 4 battery.
Dual Battery Photon Q
I know, seems insane but I've been running my phone like this for the past year and have even made a second one which is also running fine. Reason why I did this was because I'd bought a Photon Q in the summer of 2014 (previously with Verizon). The phone was brand new but the battery has been on the shelf so long that it was crap by the time it got to me. So I went and bought a replacement batter on Amazon. It already being a two year old phone, the replacement batteries went for only about $8. So I bought two. Upon receipt, I inspected it an thought of possibly soldering the two together to see what would happen.
Initially, I soldered the primary contacts of both batteries to each other (including the PCB), which didn't work. On my second attempt, I disassembled the housing for the PCB and soldered just the leads of the cells together and kept the PCB of one of the batteries. It powered on and worked properly. In fact, with two batteries, it seemed as so the phone worked faster than it did prior. I'm assuming more stable voltage.
Anywho, if anyone wants a 16 hour Photon Q, this mod works. The only thing that's off though is the battery meter. Since I don't know how to reprogram the PCB, the phone will hit 3% battery life after eight hours of use but will continue on for another eight hours. I've been using my phone like this for about a year now and it also seemed to have learned the new battery life. In recent days, the phone would actually shut off soon after the 3% warning. The second phone came into play because the touch screen stopped working. I tried to fix it but ended up breaking my phone instead.
I know I know. I'm crazy for allowing a lithium cell to be that closely exposed to the atmosphere. Whatevers, yolo. Anyways, the antenna is sandwiched between the two cells, back cover chopped up with a razor, and if you're fans of the car dock, you can take off the top layer, chop off what you need to accomodate the battery, and glue the remainder of the top layer back to the base. Like a glove!
---------- Post added at 06:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:10 AM ----------
Here are some close ups of the twin cell itself
Twin Cell Battery
http://forum.xda-developers.com/album.php?albumid=12422
I'm not sure what the general opinion here is on thread necromancy vs posting something there are already threads on, I'm looking for a good power bank that won't break my wallet- or my devices! Also, thanks for that checkbox warning, I almost posted this in general > accessories! (Where all the other threads I found with this kind of subject were, but... oh well. )
I'm looking at the Lumsing 5X right now... (Google it, I can't post links yet. 11000mAh, $26, 5 USB ports at the different ratings) it's the cheapest one I've found that's actually in a "top _" list when googling for power banks... but still, I'm worried about getting ripped off on recycled batteries ( or a charger filled with bags of sand!), and I'm trying to look into AA chargers, but... well, they're really hard to search for and don't seem to provide any specifications!
Plus a AA charger would be great since I could get an 8-pack of Imedions and use the extra batteries for my other stuff, or a quick battery swap, and easier replacement... Batteries do wear out over time, after all.
But my god is it a pain in the ass trying to find them, let alone ones that have a 1-2 amp charging capacity. or even seeing which ones bothered to include a power regulating board at all! I already got a Rayovac one from walmart when I got overexcited seeing it and made an impulse buy... only rated for 500 mAh, according to the casing upon opening the box. I'll be returning that...
It almost feels like my best bet, if I really want a AA based power brick that bad ( I don't) is to order the regulating circuit and put it together myself.
So, does anyone happen to already have a good AA bank and could tell me what they use? After all, the power brick I linked is the same price as the Imedon batteries alone... I would prefer to avoid paying more than 30 or so for the brick, 40 for the AA one + batteries.
Perhaps the one mentioned, but not by name, in this post?:
Mister B said:
I'm using a 4cell AA powerpack, I use Uniross Hybrio 2,200mAh cells.
Modified it to support fast charge & it work very well & cost me $15 all in, plus recharge cells can be easily & cheaply replaced making it a long term cheap servicable solution and also standard AA cells can be loaded if no main power available ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the Lumising. Thanks for all the help, everyone that replied; I REALLY appreciate it.
I'll report back when it gets here and say if it's poop-tier or not.
Finally drained the lumising.
It powered:
3 recharges of my Samsung Google Nexus (1750 battery) from 15%, being accidentially left on overnight once
1 recharge from red of my 3DS XL (1750) while playing Pokemon X, on the most power intensive settings.
1 recharge of my Nook 1st Edition (1250) from 15%, while reading
I did have some problems with the pack turning itself off while charging my Nook, and the Nook not registering that it's being charged, but that device does have a badly damaged USB port, so I'll let that slide even though I don't have problems with the AC plug as long as I'm careful about the device end of the USB cable.
All in all, I got approxomately 7000 mAh of charge, plus powering the devices' battery usage during the time spent charging. Not bad, when you consider that a good portion of the energy also disappears into the conversion process from the 3.1v lithium battery to the 5v standard USB ports, and then back from the USB standard to the 3.1v lithium batteries inside the devices.
The pack itself takes bloody ages to charge though, and didn't come with it's own charger. But that's to be expected, I suppose. It can only draw 1-1.5a of current while charging, according to the ratings on the brick, so no taking advantage of the full speed of a 2.1a USB wall adapter, if you have one. The short owner's manual that came with it is engrish-y, but understandable, and there are some minor discrepancies in the information stated on the Amazon page, the package, the manual, and the device itself.
For example, it seems to just turn itself off when it has a single flashing light and won't output any charge, but the manual explicitly states that a single flashing light means 10% charge, and that the remaining battery can still be used at that point. Besides that, though, the display from 4 lights to 1 seemed to accurately represent how much power it still had available in comparison to how much I had already used from it. As accurately as it can with only 4 lights, anyway.
An undocumented feature is that the lights will also start staying solid at the same 25% thresholds during charging.
Cosmetically, whatever material the case is made out of attracts fingerprints and skin oils like a high-strength neodymium magnet, and some of the protective plastics are so closely attached they look like they're just part of the case at first, but they mention that in the follow-up email after ordering. All of the edges, including around the on/off button, are a little rough, and the recessed design of said button makes it a bit difficult to press; I have to jab at it with the corner of a fingernail to push it easily; otherwise I'm just kinda pushing on the face of the device while my skin squishes into the shallow hole that the already concave button is in. The pouch is very nice, but it feels like overkill when the device itself is so impossible to keep clean and fancy-looking. Good place to keep all adapters from USB to various other plugs, though.
I suppose that's not bad for just under $27 spent.
Again, thank you all so very much for your assistance in my decision.
The problem is the middle pin on the battery connector (on the motherboard) which reads the battery temp is damaged, so only slow charging for me. the battery connector/pin is too small to resolder without the proper tools and no one is selling a 32GB Nexus 5 board currently. The few I saw last week were like $100 :crying: so can't fix for now.
OP is below
-------------------------------------------------
Hey XDA'ers,
Not sure what's wrong with my N5, the phone is charging extremely slow. the icon on the notification area shows the phone as charging. In the battery settings it says the phone is not charging. Also using apps like ampere tell me....
battery health: cold
temperature: -30C
Voltage: 3.9 - 3.95 range [normal voltage is 3.8 so seems fine]
the behavior is consistent across all ROM's, stock, etc. . and the phone only charges in bootloader mode (still slow at that) any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks
What value of current ampere shows you??
Did you try by changing charger or data cable??
LetJect said:
What value of current ampere shows you??
Did you try by changing charger or data cable??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
value of current? I don't see that as a option. and many charger and cables they all work on other phones but the issue remains on mine.
At low battery voltage should be at about 3.6V and current drawn should be around 1150 mA. As voltage increases i.e. full charge voltage should be around 4.5 V and current drawn at 90% of battery should be around 900mA.
So just check values by app Ampere.
drago10029 said:
Hey XDA'ers,
Not sure what's wrong with my N5, the phone is charging extremely slow. the icon on the notification area shows the phone as charging. In the battery settings it says the phone is not charging. Also using apps like ampere tell me....
battery health: cold
temperature: -30C
Voltage: 3.9 - 3.95 range [normal voltage is 3.8 so seems fine]
the behavior is consistent across all ROM's, stock, etc. . and the phone only charges in bootloader mode (still slow at that) any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I heard somewhere that this is problem in battery connector or thermal sensor. There was fix for this too. I can tell you if i find it again
V4LT5U said:
I heard somewhere that this is problem in battery connector or thermal sensor. There was fix for this too. I can tell you if i find it again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are correct and it could be either of the 2 actually. In my case I noticed the middle battery connector on my nexus 5 motherboard is bad so that explains why I can't get it to charge properly.
The problem now is I haven't been able to find a replacement 32GB board at all, not even ebay........ so I'm gonna make another thread to ask for some help with that.
drago10029 said:
You are correct and it could be either of the 2 actually. In my case I noticed the middle battery connector on my nexus 5 motherboard is bad so that explains why I can't get it to charge properly.
The problem now is I haven't been able to find a replacement 32GB board at all, not even ebay........ so I'm gonna make another thread to ask for some help with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Damn. Did you damage it like if you were replacing battery? Guess i have to remember to be careful if i replace mine. Btw found the thread, may not help you if the pin is like not even attached anymore but anyways here it is http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/help/battery-issue-charge-cold-t3100267
Edit: And here is iFixit mother/logicboard, don't if you get extra customs/fees if you don't live in USA. Not even sure do they send them from USA, or do they have like EU stock or something. No idea. And not sure if it even is worth the price. link: https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Parts/Google-Nexus-5-Motherboard/IF293-004-1
Edit 2: Aand they are out of stock.
Edit 3: You could try also to find slightly damaged n5 with working mobo but again need to think is it worth is and such. Could try also to sell the parts you didn't use from it.
V4LT5U said:
Damn. Did you damage it like if you were replacing battery? Guess i have to remember to be careful if i replace mine. Btw found the thread, may not help you if the pin is like not even attached anymore but anyways here it is http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/help/battery-issue-charge-cold-t3100267
Edit: And here is iFixit mother/logicboard, don't if you get extra customs/fees if you don't live in USA. Not even sure do they send them from USA, or do they have like EU stock or something. No idea. And not sure if it even is worth the price. link: https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Parts/Google-Nexus-5-Motherboard/IF293-004-1
Edit 2: Aand they are out of stock.
Edit 3: You could try also to find slightly damaged n5 with working mobo but again need to think is it worth is and such. Could try also to sell the parts you didn't use from it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the advice, I removed the connector like once but gently. Our battery connector (N5) is super cheap. and reconnecting is possible with good soldering equipment, which would be better since that is the only issue. and I don't have money for anything now so I can try solder or buy another board.
or sell it for parts which might be the case for me.
Has anyone put in a separate battery to keep the unit is sleepmode? I don't want to drain my primary battery. btw i have Teyes CC2, but i don't that really matters for this subject.
scottatl said:
Has anyone put in a separate battery to keep the unit is sleepmode? I don't want to drain my primary battery. btw i have Teyes CC2, but i don't that really matters for this subject.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why it's simply not necessary at all. You're doing it wrong.
That is an encouraging answer, if you have a lead on a procedure that will work let me know. I often go a couple of days to a week without driving this car and don't want to drain the main battery. If i go through full startup I don't really have use of the rear cam until i have already backed out.
Seems like simple and valid question to me.
Answer is: usually modern car radios come with two +12V wires, one red that goes to the ACC wire from your keyswitch and one yellow that goes to the BATT +12V (colors could be different, usually this wire has a fuse in it) which goes to the Battery +12V terminal (that's why it needs the fuse).
That wire is the one you should use with your external battery. The other one you can leave as it is as powers up the unit when you switch on your key contact and thus has largest current draw. Don't forget to connect the - terminal of your external battery to the chassis at some point.
Hi there.
I have a question: but the external battery has to be connected to the main battery or at least to the alternator, or else it will be drained by the radio without incoming power, right?
And if 2 batteries are connected to the car won't be too much for the alternator to charge?
Regards
It would be interesting if someone actually measured this stuff.
At the very least check the quiescent current of the radio in sleep mode.
If your car battery is 60 Ampere hour and the sleep current is 10 mA it's good for 250 days!
For extra credit measure what all the other junk (engine computer) in your vehicle is taking.
These units should have 2 modes in settings for "power off" one puts it to sleep after a configured amount of time, the other shuts it off after that same configured time.
Renate said:
It would be interesting if someone actually measured this stuff.
At the very least check the quiescent current of the radio in sleep mode.
If your car battery is 60 Ampere hour and the sleep current is 10 mA it's good for 250 days!
For extra credit measure what all the other junk (engine computer) in your vehicle is taking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That has already been done by several people.
See also my answer in this post.
Battoussai said:
Hi there.
I have a question: but the external battery has to be connected to the main battery or at least to the alternator, or else it will be drained by the radio without incoming power, right?
And if 2 batteries are connected to the car won't be too much for the alternator to charge?
Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed connecting it straight to the car battery is not the correct way to do it.
To be charged by the alternator just like the car battery it should have at least these two thing in the circuit:
- A diode to make sure the alternator charges the battery only if the battery has a lower voltage and avoid any current flowing from the external battery to the car's battery.
- A relay to make sure that the external battery with the diode is only connected to the alternator when the engine is running. You need to check your car's electrical diagrams for that.
The diode needs to be able to handle the charge current for the external battery. This depends on its capacity.
It would be better to use a stabilizing charge circuit that actually regulates the charge current for the external battery. Modern cars have such a circuit built into the alternator but that circuit is based on the car's battery charging requirements, which is not the same as the external battery.
The previous posts and the link provided to others are very useful to get an idea of what type of battery you'd need. Be aware of the differences however as in the other thread it mentioned the discharge of the battery should no be more than 50% to be able to start the car in winter. This is correct but doesn't apply here as your external battery doesn't have the start function so you could actually use a lower capacity battery like those agm gel types used in motorcycles and ups's.
mirandam said:
Indeed connecting it straight to the car battery is not the correct way to do it.
To be charged by the alternator just like the car battery it should have at least these two thing in the circuit:
- A diode to make sure the alternator charges the battery only if the battery has a lower voltage and avoid any current flowing from the external battery to the car's battery.
- A relay to make sure that the external battery with the diode is only connected to the alternator when the engine is running. You need to check your car's electrical diagrams for that.
The diode needs to be able to handle the charge current for the external battery. This depends on its capacity.
It would be better to use a stabilizing charge circuit that actually regulates the charge current for the external battery. Modern cars have such a circuit built into the alternator but that circuit is based on the car's battery charging requirements, which is not the same as the external battery.
The previous posts and the link provided to others are very useful to get an idea of what type of battery you'd need. Be aware of the differences however as in the other thread it mentioned the discharge of the battery should no be more than 50% to be able to start the car in winter. This is correct but doesn't apply here as your external battery doesn't have the start function so you could actually use a lower capacity battery like those agm gel types used in motorcycles and ups's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a few words of precaution. Depending on where you mount your external battery, but specifically inside your car, you should use a fire-resistant abs case. I've seen maintenance free gel batteries that are supposed to be "leak proof" oozing their liquid which is highly corrosive.
This post is nonsense and based on flawed assumptions because OP has an issue with HU, wiring or the vehicle.
The headunit does not consume enough to be a problem, PERIOD.
Maybe a small solarcell in the window - to compensate for the drain of power. Cheers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2838867265...ZChPozcPp5V5/8JSXt4ZHHFg==|tkp:Bk9SR_Lq6-__YA
marchnz said:
This post is nonsense and based on flawed assumptions because OP has an issue with HU, wiring or the vehicle.
The headunit does not consume enough to be a problem, PERIOD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@marchnz is completely right. This extra battery is complete nonsence.
If you connect your unit correctly, you can easily last 30~50 days with your unit.
The average anti-marter "beepers" drain your battery in 10 days.
And if "someone" wants to continue with this ridiculous attempt he/she could buy an electrical car. In that case you have a huge battery.
marchnz said:
This post is nonsense and based on flawed assumptions because OP has an issue with HU, wiring or the vehicle.
The headunit does not consume enough to be a problem, PERIOD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
surfer63 said:
@marchnz is completely right. This extra battery is complete nonsence.
If you connect your unit correctly, you can easily last 30~50 days with your unit.
The average anti-marter "beepers" drain your battery in 10 days.
And if "someone" wants to continue with this ridiculous attempt he/she could buy an electrical car. In that case you have a huge battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice way to help someone asking a perfectly normal question. And for those who don't understand this: ANY question is valid, it's answer that may or may not be valid, as is clearly visible above.
Uneducated people that can't read or write (yes, they DO still exist) have more common sense and respect than any of the above answers demonstrate.
lr_man said:
Maybe a small solarcell in the window - to compensate for the drain of power. Cheers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283886726506?hash=item4218f7ad6a:g:6oUAAOSwYdxjAui9&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA8M/0mbxi5yibcvdUqdCKFw2u3VzCvxbs+MuW75IcRurk8OqrGJkk3T/TS6vzz5yW8R4qgMBTaFGbwCp8sno5DxM9DNu6QQzf5YS9h0drfADY1Nte375woSR3k/+Mx8Rm68jOCUe98cbNMDj+UvrvAj+gBvTc6cFoRIV5Xg4dt/TSC/JHKEAX7FuWYV3V0D7d0oTRfHlXuRA/ddvOhZP8SjmAaM6YsaUr+G1iYb5yNqyWthMj6P8cfvEit0xonMV7vrvaV/gOim8EPi3oT+8aNUTxxQIqKrbOhQZoPAyL3wZChPozcPp5V5/8JSXt4ZHHFg==|tkp:Bk9SR_Lq6-__YA
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Actually that's not a bad idea, provided your car is not parked in a garage.
mirandam said:
Nice way to help someone asking a perfectly normal question. And for those who don't understand this: ANY question is valid, it's answer that may or may not be valid, as is clearly visible above.
Uneducated people that can't read or write (yes, they DO still exist) have more common sense and respect than any of the above answers demonstrate.
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Fallacious nonsense. Can you stop now and stop entertaining nonsense.
Your problem if unwilling to get to the root cause or simply just trying to save face.
mirandam said:
Nice way to help someone asking a perfectly normal question. And for those who don't understand this: ANY question is valid, it's answer that may or may not be valid, as is clearly visible above.
Uneducated people that can't read or write (yes, they DO still exist) have more common sense and respect than any of the above answers demonstrate.
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Multiple people have already answered in a normal way on this nomal question that this extra battery is not necessary at all. We try to prevent costly and completely unnecssary actions. You sound like someone having knowledge of electrical systems, but have no knowledge at all about these FYT units, because if you did you would not continue to "advice" the OP this way to do this unnecessary and costly actions.
So yes, every question is valid, but not every answer. If you get a counter answer on that invalid answer, you should not blame us pointing at the question. We are pointing at the answer: your answer.
Simply connect the unit correctly and you don't need an extra battery. That extra battery is really ill-adviced.
surfer63 said:
Multiple people have already answered in a normal way on this nomal question that this extra battery is not necessary at all. We try to prevent costly and completely unnecssary actions. You sound like someone having knowledge of electrical systems, but have no knowledge at all about these FYT units, because if you did you would not continue to "advice" the OP this way to do this unnecessary and costly actions.
So yes, every question is valid, but not every answer. If you get a counter answer on that invalid answer, you should not blame us pointing at the question. We are pointing at the answer: your answer.
Simply connect the unit correctly and you don't need an extra battery. That extra battery is really ill-adviced.
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You should read my answers more carefully, I NEVER advised about using the extra battery. I only responded to the question in the OP.
If someone wants to put extra battery in his car, for whatever reasons, and asks about how that can be done, I respond in an adequate way, bare minimum and some advice on a better option.
I'm not the one to lecture the OP on whether his question is right or not, or whether he should spend his money this way. That's up to him.
And just for the record, I did have an extra battery in one of my many cars, however that was because of a battery drain from an alarm system, not because of the radio.
I won't go into the comment on my knowledge, that's off-topic and won't do any good to the thread.
It would be nice to know what the OP thinks about all of these posts. Since his second post there have been no responses and it makes little sense to go on with a thread that isn't interactive.
Hi,
mirandam is just trying to help and answer the question asked in OP.
Please keep in mind the OP (scottatl) is free and I'm sure is able to judge which answer is the best for him/her.
I can see everyone here is trying to help by answering whether how to install a separate battery or explaining that doing so would be useless, I get that, but whatever the correct solution/answer is, you should all stick to the forum rules (#2 member conduct) and stay respectful.
You can absolutely post here to say you disagree and explain your stuff, this is the purpose of a forum, but please do it according to the forum rules.
Any posts / contributions are welcome here, please carry on.
Thanks
woodman
Senior Moderator
The best way to tackle this problem is to actually measure the standby current needed by your radio.
You can do that with a multimeter in between the permanent +12V wire. That way you can determine what size of external battery you would need.
There are radios that draw just a few miliamps and others to go up to 100mA. Your battery capactity needs to be according to that. For example with lets say 4 mA you could easily use a 7AH gel agm battery.
That battery can be charged with around 200-300mA from the alternator, so you'd need a relatively small diode, like a 2-3A one. Using a automotive relay would more than sufficient (they tend to support up to 30A depending on the size) to do the job.
Even the suggested solar panel would work in such a setup. Putting a diode in the solar panel wire you'd even have an automatic charging either from the alternator or the solar panel, how 'bout that?
If you really want to get wild, you could use a solar energy controller. Instead of using the solar panel input you hook it up to your normal car batter and configure it in such a way that the maximum voltage drop would be like 3 volts (13-3 would be 10V enough to still start your car). When that controller goes under the drop it shuts off the line from you car battery and would switch over to your external battery.
It's much more complex but possible since solar energy controllers have dropped considerably in price.