Database Info

[Aug 7th] Investigating battery capacity claims. First run of AMZER (EVO) complete.

Hello Google Android world, please welcome this shameful WinMo apostate into your ranks right away because I'm honestly a good guy who wants to start helping you all buy more batteries smartly as, when it comes to capacity claims of everyone other than HTC that I know of so far, you are in a sea of lies and gross exaggerations. I know this from publicly testing ten batteries for the HTC Touch Pro2/Rhodium/Tilt 2, batteries from the same factories that stamped out many of the third party batteries being sold for the N1, including batteries made by Mugen and Seidio.
As of now for the N1 I have tested the OEM which is rated at 1400mAh, two Seidios and an oversized Cameron Sino. At a 250mA current over a discharge from the phone's charging cutoff down to the phone shutdown cutoff (~4.14V and 3.5V respectively), the OEM clocked in at 1357mAh, or 97% of its claimed capacity. That is the best claimed versus actual figure I've seen so far (update: except for a new TP2 2150mAh), though on par with the Touch Pro2's OEMs which I tested, also in the mid 90s. So I say hello a little short on information, inviting any of you who want to help find the truth to let me borrow your batteries to test after which, as I've been doing with the TP2 crowd, I would fedex them right back. Also the information I can bring to the table you can use to get an idea of what to expect from their N1 counterparts.
How this works:
I am using the Computerized Battery Analyzer III. The software which is somewhat sophisticated plots out milliamp hours (mAh) burnt over the descent of voltage from 4.14V to 3.5V, the level of voltage in the batteries at which point the HTC/Google Nexus One and the Touch Pro2s decide to stop charging itself and decide it's time to turn themselves off because they're too low on juice. The CBA software plots out data in graphs, PDFs, CSVs, the whole deal. I hook the batteries up to the CBA which is plugged into my computer. With the software that came with the CBA I have the CBA test the batteries at 250mA, a current in the neighborhood of what the average user would average were he to do his thing (including having push-mail fired up with the screen on bright, downloading and browsing rss feeds, the occasional call, the occasional call being recorded etc) without interruption. Looks a little like this:
I'm not Colombo out to get the third party guys that exaggerate their numbers a little bit nor am I here to rewrite Wikipedia's take on capacity calculation industry standards. You know what? Scratch that, I'm starting to hate these guys, lying and overcharging way too much. If you're a manufacturer or a battery company sympathizer and want to break my balls about voltage cutoffs, read this simple explanation which I feel sums up our position well.
Tl;dr? This is to supply you with information that will help you choose which battery to buy. And to hurt the crooks.
Doug Simmons

Test results and other info.
This table is a hotlinked image to data on the mother site of this, batteryboss.org on which the actual links work. Hit refresh if you've been here before in case your browser cached the image.
Updates:
August 7th: After doing a dry run I ran the AMZER 1800mAh for the EVO. So far it's in first place for being the biggest ripoff on the gallon. First place.
August 5th: Received Carl's AMZER 1800mAh for EVO, doing a dry run discharge now, hopefully get some data for you tomorrow morning.
July 28th: Finished Carl's Seidio 3500mAh for EVO 4G.
July 6th: Completed round one of EVO stock (John Doward). Got the coveted Amzer 1800 and a Seidio 3500, both EVO, en route thanks to Carl Willi.
June 12th: Completed first run of a Mugen 3200mAh for the Hero. Both disappointing and unsurprising. Most cost ineffective battery I've tested.
June 11th: Jasper and Dan's batteries on the way back to them. Thanks again. Hey, Mugen 3200 for Hero and EVO 4G stock on their way! Hey, just got the Mugen. Charging.
June 10th: Completed testing for a no name Hero battery and the stock Incredible battery with the EVO 4G stock on its way. Nice. Returning those batteries to my man Dan and my other man Jasper. Hey, anyone wanna send me that Amzer 1800 for the EVO? Please?
June 7th: Just ran test number one of a no name oversized Hero battery. Underwhelming. Almost done with second test.
April 26th: Ran the Seidio 1600 again after deep cycling a bit (got worse). Got some press!
April 16th: Mailed back Wade his oem 2150 yesterday, today will mail Sean's bad Mugen back to Mugen so he can finally get a damn refund, also mailing back Roto his Cameron Sino 2400 as the testing's done. Currently experimenting with a high then low (repeat 3x) current thing with Roto's Seidio 1600 to see if it produces a more flattering result (his idea). Much obliged fellas.
April 15th: Latest test of a Touch Pro2 HTC/OEM 2150mAh scored 2150mAh on the frickin' dot! Not an N1 battery but just goes to show that if you don't like being lied to, go OEM. Finish oversized Cameron Sino.
April 14th: Was going to have another run of the 1600 ready for you but the god damned windows update forced a reboot last night. Argh. Anyway, just got a Touch Pro2 2150 HTC/OEM battery. Though it's not for our phone, it's worth knowing whether or not HTC can maintain its batting average for its oversized batteries so this will yield important information for you folks. Friggin' windows updates. What the hell is that, Microsoft, forcing reboots? Oh, easily disabled if you hit start > run > blahblah.msc > whatever > whatever? FU MS. /rant
April 13th: Finished first run of the Cameron Sino 2400mAh, weighing in at 2025mAh. Nothing to write home about in terms of a company not exaggerating about their capacity but hey, that's a pretty good price. Unlike the oversized Seidio 3200 this one does come with a back door whereas Seidio is too cool to hook you up with that.
April 12th: Rotohammer's Seidio 1600mAh has arrived, charging. First run of Seidio 1600 an unsurprising disappointment. A Cameron Sino 2400mAh also arrived (thanks Roto) and is just about fully charged for its first run.
April 9th: In a continued effort to outdo himself Rotohammer just ordered a 2400mAh-rated Cameron Sino, on its way to me. Lucky I got his attention. Extremely helpful. Thanks.
April 8th: N1 Seidio 1600mAh should show up today, thanks to Rotohammer.
April 3rd: Finished Seidio 3200mAh, five runs. Learned that it's rated slightly more honestly than Mugen but is the most expensive battery per tested amp hour. Still, highest capacity. I got a new and fast and really badass server and now have a our own forum which you can fire up at forum.batteryboss.org. Finished the new Andida for the TP2, pretty weak, but for some of you the price may be right.
March 30th: Completed dry run of a Seidio 3200mAh. Need to test it at least two more times for conditioning and accuracy but Seidio is now in the lead against Mugen in terms of not lying so much about their claimed capacity. Good job, Seidio.
March 29th: Mugen engineers respond (see table). Rotohammer's Seidio arrived, charging now baby, yeah! Should be very interesting.
March 27th: Rotohammer's sponsoring a test of a Seidio 3200mAh, battery en route. Thanks.
March 20th: Just ran the first test of the Nexus One's OEM, not bad.
March 18th: Just ordered a Google Nexus One. I got an extra battery so the first thing I'm using this for is to prepare a battery for testing. Need to figure out if it has different voltage cutoffs, need to figure out how to present the data and what to do with my site, .. hmmm.
Copypasta from TP2 thread:
March 16th: Mugen wants me to send me another battery to test, I agreed and mailed them back Jeremy's battery. Also mailed Sean/Telek his OEM 1500mAh. Thank you both fellas. Also DeathmonkeyGTX offered to sponsor a test of the HTC 2150mAh -- thank you!
March 13th: Finished no name #2 3600mAh (2466mAh ). In search of voltage cutoffs for Touch Pro/Fuze, please help.
March 12th: Mugen has expressed interest in sending me another battery to test, I expressed willingness. And to you I express curiosity into which device to expand the testing.
March 8th:Finished round two of no name #2 and fake OEM #2. Waiting on another ebay OEM to verify authenticity and a fresh Andida courtesy of my main man Shawn Martell.
March 7th:Added intriguing head to head chart matches.
March 6th:Completed a few more including fresh standard legit OEM, also discovered two counterfeits.
March 2nd: Completed no name #1, cheapest per mAh so far. Dropped Jason's battery off in the mail as promised.
Feb 28th: Completed tests of the Seidio, mailing it to jasonweaver.
Feb 27th: Just received Seidio 1750mAh from jasonweaver in addition to 1500mAh no name ebay cheapo. Nice.
Feb 27th: Mugen 1800mAh testing completed, table updated. Thank you very much jcr916 who bought the battery and had it shipped to me, now I'm going to mail it to him.
Feb 22nd: Thank you jasonweaver and jcr916 who are hooking me up with a barely-used Seidio and a brand new Mugen 1800mAh respectively. Those test results should be interesting as from what I've gathered those two brands have the best reputation and are priced accordingly so let's see if they deserve it.
Telek and I just laid down some dough for five more batteries this weekend. So I'll have a lot of testing to do shortly. Stay tuned for the results!
Testing hardware:
I am using the West Mountain Radio CBA III (Computerized Battery Analyzer) which you can buy along with some toys from these guys for $149. I bought something else from them, didn't like it and they offered to shave the cost of the thing I didn't want off the price of the CBA III without even asking me to return it. Good people. The CBA III is the most accurate and reliable device we could find for these testing purposes and we spent many hours arriving at the final testing procedure. No corners cut. There is no indication whatsoever that the results it's produced are inaccurate, certainly not relative to each other given its consistency. All testing procedures were identical including the current of 250mA, starting voltage and bottom cutoff (4.14V and 3.5V respectively, the top and bottom cutoffs of the Touch Pro2, which I use to charge the batteries with original HTC wall charger). The 250mA current may be a little high and won't produce as flattering a result versus a 100mA current, but it's both a normal current we burn when we're doing stuff on the phone, it keeps each of the three tests inside six hours usually and most importantly we use that current on every single test of every single battery so this is a standardized test. Finally the OEMs get 95% of their claimed rating on this current so we believe that that current is the sweet spot to supply you with information to use to buy your next battery.
Doug Simmons

Want to help?
First I'd like to thank Sean Graham, Jeremey Riley, Jason Weaver, Shawn Martell and Wade Woosley who've decided to do the following for me with TP2 batteries:
The next time you decide to buy a battery, hit me with a PM first so that I can give you my address. Have the battery shipped to me, I'll test the sucker then I'll hit up FedEx and get it to you asap. I have to test the battery at least three times for posterity so give me three or so days to shoot it over to you. I'll write a bit about how grateful I am you decided to help this project, yada yada, and we'll all be happier as a result. This is very valuable information and I know the batteries are also valuable to you so just borrowing your brand new battery for a little while, I realize, is a tall order. But that's a great way to help everyone out without spending a dime. I'll cover the postage to get it to you, I'm not asking for donations, I just want to run the damn tests.
Already have a third party battery but want me to test it anyway? Yes please, I am still interested in used batteries, including used OEMs to get an idea of longevity.
So once I survey the scene for shopping links I'll use this third post to list the batteries on my Christmas list.

Interesting post. Keep it up, love the idea behind this. Is it possible for you to determine how long before the n1 battery goes below 60% of its capacity by chance? and is there anyway to best optimize them for longer life?

This is a great reference. thanks
Do you think you can use your machinery to test the difference between two OEM batteries, running different kernels? For example this Undervolted kernel by Kmobs, a lot of people would be interested in seeing hard stats in the difference in battery useage over the stock kernel.

tips
ram130 said:
Interesting post. Keep it up, love the idea behind this. Is it possible for you to determine how long before the n1 battery goes below 60% of its capacity by chance? and is there anyway to best optimize them for longer life?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! As I said I am brand new to Android so I can't tell you what software to use on the phone, including roms and screen brightness managers, to make a single charge go another few miles. I can however, and this may have been what you were asking, tell you that the more you use the battery at lower charges, like below 30%, the faster you'll eventually wear it out. So the more you charge the better. Another thing I can tell you is that the hotter the battery runs the sooner you'll kill its longevity. So heavy things like tethering and youtube for extended periods will lead you to having to buy another battery significantly quicker than if you ran up your miles (milliamp hours) on lower currents. For individual discharges, one thing you may not know is that when the phone is on 3G and you're getting a weak signal or the phone, in GSM world, is on 3G but can only find itself an edge tower, the phone beefs up its transmitting power a lot. If you don't need 3G, especially if you're in a rural area where your signal isn't always strong or you're not getting any 3G (or in an unlucky corner of your office), maybe flip off 3G. I don't know if there's a setting for this on Android like there is on WinBlow but keep your wifi power setting on the lowest unless you know its affecting your wifi negatively too much.
Whenever you've got a data connection open, you're losing a lot more juice. So if you care more about your charge lasting than you do about constant immediate emailing, really frequent RSS updates and so on, go easy on the frequency so that you're using data only when necessary. If you go that route, remember to change all your synced stuff accordingly otherwise it won't help much if you switch your Gmail cycling down to a half hour but forget to turn your Facebook syncing off immediate.
There may be something like this for Android and if there is someone please mention it, but for WinMo, WMLongLife by Chainfire, author of WMWifiRouter, is a radio management program that very smartly decides when to ramp up and down to and from 3G and when to kill the data connection. If something like that does not exist and you're a programmer, check the thread for inspiration. Great if you want to save juice without devoting your life to toggling 3G all the time yourself.
Back to heavy use, if you do have a spare battery, I would advise designating one of them with a sharpie to be the battery you use during periods of your life, like watching videos on a long flight or running GPS software (especially Navigation since it uses not only a lot of processor and does the GPS math but it also uses data) when on road trips, even and especially if you've plugged it in to your cigarette lighter, go with the designated batter for those purposes, that way you can preserve one good battery to make it through a long day of work with no problem without much degradation. Your other battery will wear out faster of course, so for that consider a cheapo no name which, once I get my hands on some cheapo no names, you can buy wisely from information I give you. Don't trust their information, their ratings have no bearing on reality whatsoever. I'll give you actionable data as soon as I can test them.
Third party standalone chargers = BAD idea. Odds are, and certainly if the charger has two pins instead of four, that it gives a constant current charge unlike the OEM which goes hard when it's safe (when the battery's got empty room and is not hot) and then scales back when it senses that it needs to. That means the OEM charger that came with your phone or your phone itself when you plug in another source whether it's the wall charger or USB, or a standalone if you find one that's definitely HTC. The constant current chargers give a weaker charge than it could during most of the charge and then too strong a charge during the final clip. So that way, even though it may fill the tank up all the way, it takes longer to charge and it will hurt your battery's longevity. By how much? Can't tell you, but because of the threat of one of these dinko chargers not even having something to detect the cutoff voltage, ... bad idea, don't trust them unless you're using it on a $6 cheapo.
liam.lah said:
This is a great reference. thanks
Do you think you can use your machinery to test the difference between two OEM batteries, running different kernels? For example this Undervolted kernel by Kmobs, a lot of people would be interested in seeing hard stats in the difference in battery useage over the stock kernel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And thank you.
When I test batteries with this thing, I charge the battery and hook it up to the tester, not the tester into the phone to see what's doing with the battery as its being used by the phone. So I'm not testing to see how much different software, whether it's a strobe light program, HTC Sense, a custom rom or an underclocking mod, let you get the same happy phone experience while putting a lighter load on the battery. Rather I hook the thing up and tell the tester what load to put onto the battery (I use 250mA) and collect the data in the exact same way as I do for every battery I test. I'm brand new to Android and, though I'm loving it, I haven't even tried to root it yet, let alone experiment with different kernels.
From my experience with WinMo custom roms, I have never found a custom rom that had more battery drain than it would to its stock counterpart -- if that counterpart was running similar things like Sense instead of the old TouchFlo. I imagine your chefs or whatever you call them are pretty competent when it comes to making battery tweaks and trade-off decisions, however some roms will likely burn more rubber in order to deliver you more eye candy. In my old world there are barebones roms that have everything stripped down just to the point where the thing can boot, thereby delivering the best speed, most free ram, program stability and battery performance. Were I to flash one of your custom roms, once I got over my eye-candy phase at least and prioritized battery performance, I'd go for the new kernels with the least frills and install the frills myself as needed.
So I got my N1 last Friday and was immediately addicted, wailing on the thing, wishing I had immediately gone Android the moment it was first released instead of trying to run messy ported on my WinMo phone which is now collecting dust. That phone, parenthetically, takes a 1500mAh battery whereas the N1 takes 1400mAh. In spite of that, and in spite of the N1 having a larger screen, crazy fast processor and just being much more badass in general, lasts significantly longer than the WinMo phone on a single charge. Both are HTC phones so, unless the screen technology is really a whole lot different, to account for that I can only account for it with superior software. It's been so good to the point that I have been unsure that this project would get much attention from you folks than it's been getting from the WinMo crowd as they may be much more starved for battery information than you.
I love this thing.
If any of you have more advice than that please dump it here.
Doug

Mugen
I'm not surprised by the issue with The Mugen Power battery. I've had problems with them in the past.
See:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=2097942&postcount=47
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=2104774&postcount=50
I prefer to see a test done on a customers battery, not hand selected units from the manufacturer.
d0ugie said:
So I got my N1 last Friday and was immediately addicted, wailing on the thing, wishing I had immediately gone Android the moment it was first released instead of trying to run messy ported on my WinMo phone which is now collecting dust.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I felt the same way! And since I've been a Linux user for 15 years, It feels sooo good to be fully Microsoft free!

Damnit damnit, Mugen asked me to test another in case the one they sent was defective, asking that I mail it to them first, and I went ahead and mailed it to them, figuring I had enough data, and this not occurring to me. I didn't send back the counterfeits because I wanted to hang onto evidence for who knows what but it never occurred to me that whoever cooked up their batteries might have actually labeled them with different ratings. That is absolutely stunning. At least we've got the picture you took. Ouch man, that would really have pissed me off if I had bought a battery from a company I thought was reputable and saw that -- on top of the suspiciously underwhelming performance that led me to dissect it.
Still haven't received anything from Mugen, going to follow up with them. Also just let the guy know who bought that battery for me to test to get in on your discovery to find out how he wants to handle this, assuming they send me another. Other than saying they would I don't know why they'd bother.
Thanks for that, huge help, though also a huge disappointment.

dude! I love this thread I've always been careful when it comes to batteries, bought the nexus seidio 2800 mah battery and I can say there is no way I'm getting double life that they claim.
That should be the next battery to test out even though they only have the 3200 mah one now.
-Charlie

Let Mugen do the right thing and replace an under performing unit. If they want to play games, I'll have 10 people each buy a Mugen battery, I'll send them to you for testing, then open each of them up on video. If they try to deceive me, I'll setup a website dedicated to exposing any fraud.
Rule: Never piss off a geek with resources to prove a point.

d0ugie said:
Thanks! As I said I am brand new to Android so I can't tell you what software to use on the phone, including roms and screen brightness managers, to make a single charge go another few miles. I can however, and this may have been what you were asking, tell you that the more you use the battery at lower charges, like below 30%, the faster you'll eventually wear it out. So the more you charge the better. Another thing I can tell you is that the hotter the battery runs the sooner you'll kill its longevity. So heavy things like tethering and youtube for extended periods will lead you to having to buy another battery significantly quicker than if you ran up your miles (milliamp hours) on lower currents. For individual discharges, one thing you may not know is that when the phone is on 3G and you're getting a weak signal or the phone, in GSM world, is on 3G but can only find itself an edge tower, the phone beefs up its transmitting power a lot. If you don't need 3G, especially if you're in a rural area where your signal isn't always strong or you're not getting any 3G (or in an unlucky corner of your office), maybe flip off 3G. I don't know if there's a setting for this on Android like there is on WinBlow but keep your wifi power setting on the lowest unless you know its affecting your wifi negatively too much.
Whenever you've got a data connection open, you're losing a lot more juice. So if you care more about your charge lasting than you do about constant immediate emailing, really frequent RSS updates and so on, go easy on the frequency so that you're using data only when necessary. If you go that route, remember to change all your synced stuff accordingly otherwise it won't help much if you switch your Gmail cycling down to a half hour but forget to turn your Facebook syncing off immediate.
There may be something like this for Android and if there is someone please mention it, but for WinMo, WMLongLife by Chainfire, author of WMWifiRouter, is a radio management program that very smartly decides when to ramp up and down to and from 3G and when to kill the data connection. If something like that does not exist and you're a programmer, check the thread for inspiration. Great if you want to save juice without devoting your life to toggling 3G all the time yourself.
----------------
Doug
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for your post. I am truely learning alot from you and thank you for the advice. I will be sure to follow them trust me. I got two questions though, do you think its best to charge your phone off or on? Also my battery was at 15% while on a call then I plugged in. After about 10min I hang up and now its charging while on, its been 12min and so for its at a whopping 106* F, really hot..is that normal? I know heat is bad, but I can't do anything to fix it.

d0ugie said:
Third party standalone chargers = BAD idea. Odds are, and certainly if the charger has two pins instead of four, that it gives a constant current charge unlike the OEM which goes hard when it's safe (when the battery's got empty room and is not hot) and then scales back when it senses that it needs to. That means the OEM charger that came with your phone or your phone itself when you plug in another source whether it's the wall charger or USB, or a standalone if you find one that's definitely HTC. The constant current chargers give a weaker charge than it could during most of the charge and then too strong a charge during the final clip. So that way, even though it may fill the tank up all the way, it takes longer to charge and it will hurt your battery's longevity. By how much? Can't tell you, but because of the threat of one of these dinko chargers not even having something to detect the cutoff voltage, ... bad idea, don't trust them unless you're using it on a $6 cheapo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean standalone? i bought a motorola phone charger because the US pins don't fit here, i did notice the output is lower, so i expect long charge time. Is that still going to have the same problem not throttling it down at the end.
I suppose my best bet is a pair of pliers to bend the htc charger pins to fit in our wall sockets.
Also, in regards to heavy, for example navigation+ music in a car. Does having it plugged in to power help with that? what happens when it is simultaneously charging and discharging? I also suppse a good tip is to place the mount in front of an air-conditioning vent too, if it is a warm day, the phone will get super hot in minutes, but if you are air con-ing, it will stay cool.

ram130 said:
Thank you so much for your post. I am truely learning alot from you and thank you for the advice. I will be sure to follow them trust me. I got two questions though, do you think its best to charge your phone off or on? Also my battery was at 15% while on a call then I plugged in. After about 10min I hang up and now its charging while on, its been 12min and so for its at a whopping 106* F, really hot..is that normal? I know heat is bad, but I can't do anything to fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Charging the battery and using the battery both create heat. That said, the total heat you'd get from charging during casual use of the battery should not be great enough to warrant the nuisance of not being able to keep your phone on until you finish charging it each time. But 106F (41 Celsius) is indeed whopping hot and, according to not necessarily precise software tests I did on other HTC devices, that is the neighborhood of heat at which the phone eases back the charging current to the point where the phone may either charge at a current about even with what your phone is burning, leaving it without any net gain while running at too hot a temperature for the health of your battery or it will begin to drop the charging current toward zero so that your phone is discharging, waiting until the temperature simmers down until it turns the juice back up.
But what the hell is causing this if you didn't have things like wifi and GPS and streaming video going while talking to someone on your earpiece at the same time? Could be a runaway process, something whacky with something software related, something wrong with the battery, something wrong with the phone or something messed up with the charger. Since you plugged the phone in and didn't use a separate third party charger into which you plop the battery to charge, since the phone was involved, it's probably not the charger. My first guess would be something sketchy software-wise. The first thing I'd do is go into Settings > About phone > Battery use and seeing if anything looks crazy when it lists what software or functions are accounting for how much of the drain relative to each other. If something is burning juice harder than the screen, the good news is is that it might not be a hardware issue, might be something that could be solved with a soft reset. Could just have been a fluke. Can you recreate the problem? If you shut the phone completely off and it appears to charge without overheating, my guess is that the hardware is okay and there is no defect. And in that case, task management and auto-killing programs may be of interest.
liam.lah said:
What do you mean standalone? i bought a motorola phone charger because the US pins don't fit here, i did notice the output is lower, so i expect long charge time. Is that still going to have the same problem not throttling it down at the end.
I suppose my best bet is a pair of pliers to bend the htc charger pins to fit in our wall sockets.
Also, in regards to heavy, for example navigation+ music in a car. Does having it plugged in to power help with that? what happens when it is simultaneously charging and discharging? I also suppse a good tip is to place the mount in front of an air-conditioning vent too, if it is a warm day, the phone will get super hot in minutes, but if you are air con-ing, it will stay cool.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By standalone and third party I meant one of those little cheapo things you plug into the wall, generally without any wiring, and you put the battery into it instead of charging the battery while it's in your phone. Unless it's the OEM, there is some small danger to using these things but the convenience and cheapness, if you use multiple batteries, may make it worth using anyway, though I'd keep your OEM battery away from it and only use cheap third parties in it.
I'm 80% sure that as long as your phone's involved, meaning the battery's in the phone and something is plugged into the phone to charge it, if you use a weaker charger .... no I'm not 80% sure, let me ask Telek first. But if you've got an outlet that packs a voltage that the charger is indicated to be able to handle, typically 110-220 volts or in that neighborhood, then it's just a matter of getting the thing plugged in (safely) whether you buy a cheap adapter or go nuts with paperclips.
When it's charging and discharging, that's two things heating it up, but I'd be surprised if a serious AC made enough of a difference to make it worth moving the phone to where you otherwise wouldn't mount it. In spite of the extra heat from also charging the phone, running it on a low charge is also not great for longevity purposes but I think, I'm speculating, outweighed by the heat. If your battery's running in excess of 40c, that's not an ideal situation, but hey, you gotta drive sometimes and not devote your life to air conditioning alignment and plugging and unplugging your car charger constantly. I've done enough speculating -- Telek's the expert on this, let him weigh in.

d0ugie said:
Charging the battery and using the battery both create heat. That said, the total heat you'd get from charging during casual use of the battery should not be great enough to warrant the nuisance of not being able to keep your phone on until you finish charging it each time. But 106F (41 Celsius) is indeed whopping hot and, according to not necessarily precise software tests I did on other HTC devices, that is the neighborhood of heat at which the phone eases back the charging current to the point where the phone may either charge at a current about even with what your phone is burning, leaving it without any net gain while running at too hot a temperature for the health of your battery or it will begin to drop the charging current toward zero so that your phone is discharging, waiting until the temperature simmers down until it turns the juice back up.
But what the hell is causing this if you didn't have things like wifi and GPS and streaming video going while talking to someone on your earpiece at the same time? Could be a runaway process, something whacky with something software related, something wrong with the battery, something wrong with the phone or something messed up with the charger. Since you plugged the phone in and didn't use a separate third party charger into which you plop the battery to charge, since the phone was involved, it's probably not the charger. My first guess would be something sketchy software-wise. The first thing I'd do is go into Settings > About phone > Battery use and seeing if anything looks crazy when it lists what software or functions are accounting for how much of the drain relative to each other. If something is burning juice harder than the screen, the good news is is that it might not be a hardware issue, might be something that could be solved with a soft reset. Could just have been a fluke. Can you recreate the problem? If you shut the phone completely off and it appears to charge without overheating, my guess is that the hardware is okay and there is no defect. And in that case, task management and auto-killing programs may be of interest.
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly my point. What the hell could be causing it. Today I did a master reset once more, mainly angry with how things where running. Its fast again and so far I have not tried reproducing the situation as yet. I only use GPS for 5min total, mainly for directions. But I'm curious though, I had requested another battery from HTC because the one that came with the phone was losing charge too quickly(10% in hour). So far the new battery was working alot better, but now its the same. I keep hearing people say they get day and half of battery life with regular use and have 3G on. Yet my battery won't pass a day(by night its dead). I only have certain things like news and weather running and refreshing every 3hours to 6hours. I don't have twitter, facebook running or nothing like that. The screen is on auto and it happens wether 3G or EDGE is on. Only 2 hours more with EDGE. Am I doing something wrong? I feel like a complete ediat with two batteries.
I followed all advise, even turn it off during charging. Letting it die completely, tried 4 times this week. Its a regular thing letting it die completely since by the time I'm home I don't charge right way. Mainly because I would be expecting calls. My only option seems to be root unless you can shed some light. I can get a day or more if I leave the brightness on low, no internet or EDGE or no browsing and email syncing, don't fool around with my phone, with only a total of 20min calls during the day. Seems ridiculous to do that since others do ALOT than me and get better battey life. I feel like buy 2 more batteries now..its driving me crazy.

ram130 said:
Exactly my point. What the hell could be causing it. Today I did a master reset once more, mainly angry with how things where running. Its fast again and so far I have not tried reproducing the situation as yet. I only use GPS for 5min total, mainly for directions. But I'm curious though, I had requested another battery from HTC because the one that came with the phone was losing charge too quickly(10% in hour). So far the new battery was working alot better, but now its the same. I keep hearing people say they get day and half of battery life with regular use and have 3G on. Yet my battery won't pass a day(by night its dead). I only have certain things like news and weather running and refreshing every 3hours to 6hours. I don't have twitter, facebook running or nothing like that. The screen is on auto and it happens wether 3G or EDGE is on. Only 2 hours more with EDGE. Am I doing something wrong? I feel like a complete ediat with two batteries.
I followed all advise, even turn it off during charging. Letting it die completely, tried 4 times this week. Its a regular thing letting it die completely since by the time I'm home I don't charge right way. Mainly because I would be expecting calls. My only option seems to be root unless you can shed some light. I can get a day or more if I leave the brightness on low, no internet or EDGE or no browsing and email syncing, don't fool around with my phone, with only a total of 20min calls during the day. Seems ridiculous to do that since others do ALOT than me and get better battey life. I feel like buy 2 more batteries now..its driving me crazy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well sucks. Sorry man.
So you did a hard reset, restoring everything to how it was out of the box, and it still sucks. This might be a longshot but do you happen to be in an area where you typically don't get a full signal? ... and could you see what happens if you go to Settings > About phone > Battery use? It might reveal clues though if you did a hard reset and it didn't help, that suggests some kind of hardware problem I hate to say. Download a battery monitor app and see what kind of temperature you get when using the phone normally. If it's not that high but the thing drains fast, then maybe it's the battery, secondary to what could initially have been a software problem that worked the battery so exhaustingly that it's now behaving like this without the software problem.
That's right though, what people are saying, at least for most of us; I am getting so much better life than I used to on my WinMo phone, free at last. I used to have a second charger, one at my desk, the other by my bed. Not necessary anymore. I bought a spare battery but I haven't had to use it yet. Only used it to run tests for this project.
Any chance you're still under warranty? Don't lose hope just yet man, we might be able to get out of this. Check that battery use thing.

d0ugie said:
Well sucks. Sorry man.
So you did a hard reset, restoring everything to how it was out of the box, and it still sucks. This might be a longshot but do you happen to be in an area where you typically don't get a full signal? ... and could you see what happens if you go to Settings > About phone > Battery use? It might reveal clues though if you did a hard reset and it didn't help, that suggests some kind of hardware problem I hate to say. Download a battery monitor app and see what kind of temperature you get when using the phone normally. If it's not that high but the thing drains fast, then maybe it's the battery, secondary to what could initially have been a software problem that worked the battery so exhaustingly that it's now behaving like this without the software problem.
That's right though, what people are saying, at least for most of us; I am getting so much better life than I used to on my WinMo phone, free at last. I used to have a second charger, one at my desk, the other by my bed. Not necessary anymore. I bought a spare battery but I haven't had to use it yet. Only used it to run tests for this project.
Any chance you're still under warranty? Don't lose hope just yet man, we might be able to get out of this. Check that battery use thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well so far its been 1hr 32min since I turned it on. I made 5min call and sen a few texts. I'm 94% now and this is what battery use is showing:
Voice calls 39%
Display 29%
Cell standby 7%
Android system 6%
Phone idle 6%
wifi 4%
Gallery 3% (WEIRD, have not went in there)
Android OS 3%
Google 2%
Current temp: 86.9*
Voltage: 4.0.84v
I took some pictures of it. Please note, to take pics I had to plug in via usb, using the SDK.

Lets have some fun!
I found a brand new Seidio 3200mAh battery from when I had a Motorola Q, and since I have no use for the Q or Verizon, the battery is just screaming "Open Me Up!"
View attachment 299144
Heres whats inside: 3 unmarked cells that are 32x48mm.
View attachment 299145
Compare that with the aprox 52x42mm N1 battery, we can do some math:
Code:
32x48 x
------ = ----- x=940mAh/cell * 3cells = 2820mAh total
52x44 1400
Of course this is just an approximation. The cells should be 1066mAh each, and they very well could be. I'm happy to see 3 cells in there
The new Seidio N1 battery is 52x44mm 9.5mm thick vs 4.75mm thick for the stock battery.
Simple math here, I bet theres two 1400mAh cells in it Although, they do sell a 1600mAh battery, so If thats true, then this battery could have two 1600mAh cells in it.
I weighed each cell in grams:
Code:
N1 1400mAh 30g
MQ 3200mAh 56g
N1 3200mAh 58g
N1 2400mAh 51g
Edit: Added Cameron Sino 2400.
Accounting for packaging, It sure looks like the two 3200mAh batteries are really 2800mAh.
Lets assume thought that Seidio has higher capacity/gram batteries. This will be proven when it gets tested by d0ugie.

ram130 said:
Well so far its been 1hr 32min since I turned it on. I made 5min call and sen a few texts. I'm 94% now and this is what battery use is showing:
Voice calls 39%
Display 29%
Cell standby 7%
Android system 6%
Phone idle 6%
wifi 4%
Gallery 3% (WEIRD, have not went in there)
Android OS 3%
Google 2%
Current temp: 86.9*
Voltage: 4.0.84v
I took some pictures of it. Please note, to take pics I had to plug in via usb, using the SDK.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd contact tech support because Doug is probably right. You have to have either a hardware or software problem that is causing your phone to drain your battery (like GPS is always on, even though it shows it is off).

ram130 said:
Well so far its been 1hr 32min since I turned it on. I made 5min call and sen a few texts. I'm 94% now and this is what battery use is showing:
Voice calls 39%
Display 29%
Cell standby 7%
Android system 6%
Phone idle 6%
wifi 4%
Gallery 3% (WEIRD, have not went in there)
Android OS 3%
Google 2%
Current temp: 86.9*
Voltage: 4.0.84v
I took some pictures of it. Please note, to take pics I had to plug in via usb, using the SDK.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is Gallery is activated every time you look up contacts and used for the background?
I think you have your phone searching for signal all time. Go into the wireless settings and click the Only use 2g networks. Only turn it on manually when you want to use 3g.
Tell us how your battery is after that. I suspect you spend some time in areas where the phone is boosting power to get a good signal and its causing battery loss. (BTW, you only get a few hours with the screen on)

Maybe you could try using the phone during a typical day, then posting your battery results after 8+ hours of use... that should give us a better idea of where your drain is coming from, but if it is still inconclusive I would still say you should contact tech support.

[Truth][Dev info] Do You Know What's in Your Battery -[Pics] Current Protection Chips

Kernel Devs, here's what I found, with pictures to document it.
Li-ion batteries are protected by current limiter chips. SBC kernels cannot exceed safe charging limits because the chips preclude ( stop) it. At the end of the post is a reference to the chip which controls the amperage and voltage, to and from the battery.
I decided to look inside one of my extended $10 3500ma EVO batteries, in order to see how SBC kernels could impact the battery.
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"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
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}
I took a series of pictures. Most were 10x and the chip number was 60x. Please be sure to check them.
VV - The four familiar contact pads for the battery.
VV - The picture (at 10x) below is of the chip which controls the operation of the battery.
It is surrounded by the red tape.
VV- The numbers on the controller chip are readable at 60x. Note
it says 8205A, and a mfg (date) code.
What I found was that a 8205 chip is used to provide protection and prevent over charging and over-discharging. Here is a quote from a google search.
S-8205A/B Series Applications-Optimized-Battery-Protection Circuits.
All contained voltage detectors are of high precision between 15mV and 100mV depending on the function. Overcharge detection voltage is 3.55V..4.4V with 25mV accuracy. Overdischarge detection voltage is 2.0V..3.2V with 80mV accuracy. Discharge overcurrent detection voltage is 0.05V..0.3V with 15mV accuracy and charge overcurrent detection voltage is -0.05V..-0.3V with 30mV accuracy. The detection voltage in short circuit case is 0.5V..1.0V with 100mV accuracy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since the batteries are hardware protected, SBC kernels cannot overule and exceed the protection.
Here is a sequel to this thread:http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=913401
It is a test of the battery protection circuit. The concept is one of standard electrons. No magical or invisible electrons allowed. If an electron is added it gets accounted for in any of the possible ways. Usually it's an increase in voltage / heat of the battery.

Good info thx for taking the time and gather this
from my phone duh

I guess my question is... if all this is true... why are we having multiple reports from multiple different people on multiple forums claiming failure with these kernels?
Also, wasn't it shown that the different Evo hardware versions came with different batteries?
So couldn't it be true that these "protection chips" aren't the same across the board?

Let me explain to you how I came to taking apart my battery.
It might shed some light on your question.
Any time I get a new battery, I always connect it directly to a 6v 2amp charger, with a volt meter across the pos. and neg. terminals.
Here's what I have found: All batteries charge to about 4.33v-4.38v; until they automatically disconnect from the charger ( the voltage goes to 7.2 v ). Judging from this I deduced that all batteries which I tested, stock, 1800ma, 2600ma, and 3500ma all have some hardware protection built in.
I can only guess that maybe some batteries have bad or out of spec. chips and circuits - faulty.
mattykinsx said:
I guess my question is... if all this is true... why are we having multiple reports from multiple different people on multiple forums claiming failure with these kernels?
Also, wasn't it shown that the different Evo hardware versions came with different batteries?
So couldn't it be true that these "protection chips" aren't the same across the board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Good info here. Thanks for taking the time to explore and test these things out. I have been suspecting that it was the battery that failed and not the kernel on these cases of screwed up batteries, Imagine how many people are using these SBC kernels and only 6 failures. I wonder how many battery failures happened that were not reported because no one was paranoid about this SBC kernel thing and just thought to themselves, "hmmm...I got a bad battery" and took it into Sprint and got it replaced. I am suspecting that most of the battery failures were not the stock battery, but a cheap $10 ebay battery which I use by the way. By using this cheap battery I have accepted the fact that it may fail on me and I may have to buy another $10 battery. I keep 2 on hand plus my original battery anyway, just in case. Thanks for you research willy900wonka. I am not saying that this research proves anything and I know this may turn into a flaming war. All I am saying is I don't think the kernel caused these failures, but a bad battery chip inside the battery as the OP stated.

mattykinsx said:
I guess my question is... if all this is true... why are we having multiple reports from multiple different people on multiple forums claiming failure with these kernels?
Also, wasn't it shown that the different Evo hardware versions came with different batteries?
So couldn't it be true that these "protection chips" aren't the same across the board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
kill them softly... and slowly. These chips are present in all li-ion batteries but can only do so much

http://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries
No trickle charge is applied because lithium-ion is unable to absorb overcharge. A continuous trickle charge above 4.05V/cell would causes plating of metallic lithium that could lead to instabilities and compromise safety. Instead, a brief topping charge is provided to compensate for the small self-discharge the battery and its protective circuit consume. Depending on the battery, a topping charge may be repeated once every 20 days. Typically, the charge kicks in when the open terminal voltage drops to 4.05V/cell and turns off at a high 4.20V/cell.
What happens if a battery is inadvertently overcharged? lithium-ion is designed to operate safely within their normal operating voltage but become unstable if charged to higher voltages. When charging above 4.30V, the cell causes plating of metallic lithium on the anode; the cathode material becomes an oxidizing agent, loses stability and releases oxygen. Overcharging causes the cell to heat up. If left unattended, the cell could vent with flame.

mattykinsx said:
I guess my question is... if all this is true... why are we having multiple reports from multiple different people on multiple forums claiming failure with these kernels?
Also, wasn't it shown that the different Evo hardware versions came with different batteries?
So couldn't it be true that these "protection chips" aren't the same across the board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You say mutiple failures due to what? There have been 6 failures reported. Are they ALL true? Six out of how many EVO's on the market? Lets keep this in check!

mikebeam said:
You say mutiple failures due to what? There have been 6 failures reported. Are they ALL true? Six out of how many EVO's on the market? Lets keep this in check!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=906230

swatspyder said:
http://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries
No trickle charge is applied because lithium-ion is unable to absorb overcharge. A continuous trickle charge above 4.05V/cell would causes plating of metallic lithium that could lead to instabilities and compromise safety. Instead, a brief topping charge is provided to compensate for the small self-discharge the battery and its protective circuit consume. Depending on the battery, a topping charge may be repeated once every 20 days. Typically, the charge kicks in when the open terminal voltage drops to 4.05V/cell and turns off at a high 4.20V/cell.
What happens if a battery is inadvertently overcharged? lithium-ion is designed to operate safely within their normal operating voltage but become unstable if charged to higher voltages. When charging above 4.30V, the cell causes plating of metallic lithium on the anode; the cathode material becomes an oxidizing agent, loses stability and releases oxygen. Overcharging causes the cell to heat up. If left unattended, the cell could vent with flame.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has anyone reported their battery catching on fire or are people just reporting batteries dying?

Very useful information thanks.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

So basically, there is a hardware failsafe designed to prevent these batteries from exploding... so what happens when one of the hardware failsafes fails? How many evos have people reported as faulty? Quite a few... we have seen bad screens, bad cases, bad buttons, etc. Who's to say that there haven't also been bad 8205a chips too? Maybe HTC even *gasp* KNEW that these chips were prone to failure and introduced the 90% charge in anticipation of this?
No one can be 100% sure if these "SBC" kernels are to blame. Correlation does not imply causation. But that said, I think that if you understand enough about the electrical engineering involved, you will realize that gaining 10% more battery life isn't worth the risk of a fire hazard and a destroyed phone. It's easy to say "hey, new kernel, cool!" But then if something catastrophic happens all of a sudden it's "oh crap why did I do that?!"
Of course you can do whatever you choose with your phone, it is your choice. I personally am not going to screw around with introducing potential instability to a piece of hardware that already has enough stability problems as it is.

mattykinsx said:
I guess my question is... if all this is true... why are we having multiple reports from multiple different people on multiple forums claiming failure with these kernels?
Also, wasn't it shown that the different Evo hardware versions came with different batteries?
So couldn't it be true that these "protection chips" aren't the same across the board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, you are making the assumption that these batteries would not have failed if not for SBC. It is a post hoc argument (after this therefore because of this). Considering how many people are using SBC and the number of reported failures are tiny compared to the whole, I think it would be safe to say that there is no statistical evidence that SBC is causing the failures. If .01% of SBC users are experiencing failure and 99.99% are not, one has to question if there is a correlation.
If SBC is the problem, why are the vast majority of users experiencing no malfunction whatsoever?

Bottom line is we are messing with something that it took a team of engineers to figure out in the first place. My kids use my phone all the time and I'm just not willing to take a chance however small that might be.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

BuddaBelly said:
Bottom line is we are messing with something that it took a team of engineers to figure out in the first place. My kids use my phone all the time and I'm just not willing to take a chance however small that might be.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I think this is the most logical way to approach things. Although it is hard to prove that SBC is causing these failures based upon the small number of reported incidents, the potential benefit of using SBC is far outweighed by the potential risk of a lipo fire from an over-loaded battery.
For this reason I personally removed the SBC kernel from my phone and replaced it with a non-SBC kernel - even though I had never experienced any problems at all using SBC.

I'm not a battery expert but I can almost guarentee no one has their phone on a charger more than I do. I have a charging dock on my nightstand where it charges overnight everynight. In the morning, I take it off the dock, walk to my garage and plug in a car charger for the drive to work. Once at work, I disconnect it from the car charger and within a few minutes my Evo is sitting in another charging dock on my desk at my office. I would estimate that it is being charged over 20 hours per day. I have done this every day since I got the phone so if the SBC thing is causing the problems described I would think it would have affected my phone by now. I bet every problem reported was with a $10 eBay battery from China which probably don't have any protection chips, probably aren't even Li-ion and so on. IMO, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR! To sell them so cheap the had to cut some corners somewhere.

Shinzul said:
So basically, there is a hardware failsafe designed to prevent these batteries from exploding... so what happens when one of the hardware failsafes fails? How many evos have people reported as faulty? Quite a few... we have seen bad screens, bad cases, bad buttons, etc. Who's to say that there haven't also been bad 8205a chips too? Maybe HTC even *gasp* KNEW that these chips were prone to failure and introduced the 90% charge in anticipation of this?
No one can be 100% sure if these "SBC" kernels are to blame. Correlation does not imply causation. But that said, I think that if you understand enough about the electrical engineering involved, you will realize that gaining 10% more battery life isn't worth the risk of a fire hazard and a destroyed phone. It's easy to say "hey, new kernel, cool!" But then if something catastrophic happens all of a sudden it's "oh crap why did I do that?!"
Of course you can do whatever you choose with your phone, it is your choice. I personally am not going to screw around with introducing potential instability to a piece of hardware that already has enough stability problems as it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See here is my thing with this particular argument. People say they don't want to put anything on their Evos or whatever phone they have that would introduce the possibility of instability. Um, YOUR PHONE IS ROOTED!!!! and you MIGHT NOT have the stock rom on your phone.
So basically you have ALREADY put your phone at risk. I'm not saying USE the trickle charge kernel by any means. It's your phone do what you want to do put what you want to or don't want to put on it. But you can't use that particular argument to justify WHY you wouldn't. If you don't want to risk your phone in any manner, unroot it and return it to stock. Plain and simple.
As for the warnings everyone is given, every kernel and rom has a warning. If someone wants to use it anyway, let em use it. If you don't want to, then YOU don't want to. I paid 300 bucks for my phone (got it brand new from a third party since I wasn't eligible to upgrade) then I paid 30 bucks for an extended battery with case. Would I be mad if my phone "blew up"? Yep
But my phone is often time COOLER while charging than when I am using it. My phone is in mid 80s easy while charing and mid 90s while using it. That's normal considering I am a SERIOUS multi tasker (you should see my visual task switcher sometimes) So maybe, just maybe, I am part of the 99% that isn't having any issues with the SBC kernels. I'll take the extra battery juice, especially since I do travel and I don't sit by an electric outlet all the time.

as ive said maybe these people with battery issues had cheap knockoff batteries.

Shinzul said:
So basically, there is a hardware failsafe designed to prevent these batteries from exploding... so what happens when one of the hardware failsafes fails? How many evos have people reported as faulty? Quite a few... we have seen bad screens, bad cases, bad buttons, etc. Who's to say that there haven't also been bad 8205a chips too? Maybe HTC even *gasp* KNEW that these chips were prone to failure and introduced the 90% charge in anticipation of this?
No one can be 100% sure if these "SBC" kernels are to blame. Correlation does not imply causation. But that said, I think that if you understand enough about the electrical engineering involved, you will realize that gaining 10% more battery life isn't worth the risk of a fire hazard and a destroyed phone. It's easy to say "hey, new kernel, cool!" But then if something catastrophic happens all of a sudden it's "oh crap why did I do that?!"
Of course you can do whatever you choose with your phone, it is your choice. I personally am not going to screw around with introducing potential instability to a piece of hardware that already has enough stability problems as it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed. Even though I have insurance, the hassle, etc., is not worth the risk for approximately 10% more battery. With the wimax cm6 kernel I get good battery life under semi-heavy use.
Sent on the go from my HTC EVO

lyrical1278 said:
See here is my thing with this particular argument. People say they don't want to put anything on their Evos or whatever phone they have that would introduce the possibility of instability. Um, YOUR PHONE IS ROOTED!!!! and you MIGHT NOT have the stock rom on your phone.
So basically you have ALREADY put your phone at risk. I'm not saying USE the trickle charge kernel by any means. It's your phone do what you want to do put what you want to or don't want to put on it. But you can't use that particular argument to justify WHY you wouldn't. If you don't want to risk your phone in any manner, unroot it and return it to stock. Plain and simple.
As for the warnings everyone is given, every kernel and rom has a warning. If someone wants to use it anyway, let em use it. If you don't want to, then YOU don't want to. I paid 300 bucks for my phone (got it brand new from a third party since I wasn't eligible to upgrade) then I paid 30 bucks for an extended battery with case. Would I be mad if my phone "blew up"? Yep
But my phone is often time COOLER while charging than when I am using it. My phone is in mid 80s easy while charing and mid 90s while using it. That's normal considering I am a SERIOUS multi tasker (you should see my visual task switcher sometimes) So maybe, just maybe, I am part of the 99% that isn't having any issues with the SBC kernels. I'll take the extra battery juice, especially since I do travel and I don't sit by an electric outlet all the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rooting your phone and having a custom rom isn't the same kind of instability as potentially over-charging a Li-on battery. A few fc's probably won't blow up your phone.
fixxxer2008 said:
as ive said maybe these people with battery issues had cheap knockoff batteries.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This thread is a report of a stock one.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=904577
Again, there's no proof/evidence to show sbc doesn't this, but it's of course within the realm of possibility. And as most people have said.. is that extra few percent worth the risk? That's up to the individual,

i need help

ok guys i really need your help/opinions. my mytouch4gslide has recently been overheating while just casualy using it (facebook,twiitter,minor games,etc). and 2 days ago it started having horrible battery life it goes down 1 or 2 percent every minute or two. and also ive been trying alot of diffrent roms and im still trying each one out again but the problem is still there.before i was with tmobile i had an optimus v for virginmobile and the battery lasted much longer and it wouldnt overheat like this. im really tempted to send this to htc and get it fixed?replaced but i really cant wait two weeks without a phone. so guys tell me if this has ever happened to you or what i should do, i wish i still have the tmobile asurion insurence but i thought it was useless and canceled it last month, what shoudl i do?
o and i bought this piece of crap from tmobile for 500 dollers no sh!t and im still paying for it so i would really like it for it to get fixed

Yea, that's how much I paid for my first one too - well, still paying for...
Did you get insurance with your plan? Not sure if it covers the battery - but it did come with it, so I don't see why not.
Maybe take it in-store and see if you can get a manager or someone who could swap your battery out? Not sure if it works like that.
I'd be leaning towards the battery being shot, or on it's way there.
If it's overheating a lot, then it's just damaging the battery further - but it's also a sign of damage to the battery itself. Some of the cells are burnt out or malfunctioning and preventing/blocking/impeding or somehow just jamming up the electricity transfer in and out of the battery.
If you do an insurance claim, (if you got it with your plan) they ship you a new phone and when it comes in, you send your old one back. Think you have like 7 days to decide if you want the new one or keep the old one.
That would at least give you two batteries to test back and forth and see if it really is a battery problem (but that's the most likely answer)
You might consider getting an aftermarket battery?
On my second phone I swap out between the two HTC batteries I have, and in my plan phone I have the Anker battery I got. The Anker never gets as hot as the stock battery (either one) for the same workload, and I can push the device with the Anker to do much, much more then the one with the stock battery.
----
I did do an HTC warranty repair on my second device, and I had to ship it back, they fixed, and sent it back to me. Didn't take that long, less then 13 days (probably by a few days) I could look up my records and find out exactly how many days I didn't have it including my shipping to them - but once they had it, it was speedy service.
The HTC people were an absolute pleasure to deal with on the phone, extremely helpful and taking the time to patiently answer all of my questions or look up accurate answers if need be (and they had to a few times, but you could imagine the grilling of questions I gave an HTC rep since I was on the line with them already)
Definitely seperated themselves from the vast majority of companies i've dealt with for customer service issues (beyond phones into other stuff too)
So past making some awesome tech the people behind it have been fantastic in my experience.
(even if they do make a ****ty battery they should be ashamed of - phone company, not a battery company, but the quality of the battery is way out of spec for the device it's in )
----
Sorry to hear about your troubles, but I have a feeling that people are going to start following you who have been using the stock battery for as long as you have.
It generates too much heat, is too inefficient, and that makes it break down faster and die quicker. The more it dies, the less efficient it gets, and the quicker it reaches the end of it's service life.
If I were in your shoes, i'd call the battery shot and start worrying about what that amount of heat is doing to the device itself, specifically its Snapdragon processor. Heat is enemy numbers 1, 2 and 3 for the processor, especially one pushing the limits of it's design like the Snapdragon does.
If you are running an OC kernel, i'd stop that immediately. Hopefully you aren't or haven't been.
----
I'd say go to a T-Mo store and start there, do an HTC direct warranty replace as a last resort and consider an aftermarket battery.
The Mugen batteries are unquestionably higher quality then the Anker batteries, but much pricier too.
The Anker battery is far and away better then the garbage stock battery - so even that would be a step up and it's what I run and like using.
(when I can afford to i'm gonna step up to the Mugen battery and gift the Anker to my second phone)
If I were you i'd overnight an Anker battery and stop in a T-Mo store tomorrow to see what your options were and how they were going to make it right for you.
Worst case is an HTC warranty, it's still in the warranty period, the phone hasn't been out for a year yet. I know that's the least desirable option, but if you do have to go that route make sure to mention how the heat has probably damaged the phone itself and they should have a tech or two go over the whole thing with a fine tooth comb. That heat against the processor has really shortened the lifespan of your device.
I say this because sometimes I put down my second phone and turn it off to save it from the heat of a functioning stock battery - a broken one would be a lot more of a concern.
Wish I could say something more positive, but while you are in warranty and have options is not the time to ignore issues that could bite you later.
Edit:
Especially since this is clearly not your fault - you are using the battery provided to you with the device itself, and that is now malfunctioning. You didn't do anything to cause this, it's either dumb luck with an even worse battery then normal that HTC themselves provided you, or you are the first of more who are hitting the end of service life on the battery the device came with.
It sucks that the worse it gets, the more quickly the problem gets worse. It's a vicious cycle that there is no way out of, because just using the battery breaks it more.
Even if you have to be without a phone for a week because you have to ship it back to HTC (worst case scenario from your point of view, since you have no device in the meantime) they'll make it right for you. This device is too awesome, and costs too much money, to settle for something that's defective - especially since it's not something you did, just the way it came.
Let's just hope for everyone's sake you got a particularly bad battery and this doesn't turn into an epidemic. Because the overheating of the battery basically breaks it more and more quickly, this is about the right amount of time for them to start crapping out if you got it within the first month of launch.
(based on the ludicrous - yet identical - amount of heat i've been experiencing from two stock batteries is where i'm framing this fear from)
Edit again:
Sorry, noticed you said you cancelled insurance, i'm pretty tired, but i'll leave what I said in case it helps someone - I wouldn't hesitate to call up HTC and file a manufacturers warranty claim, it should be covered since it's their branded battery that failed. I definitely give them a very high rating for customer service from my experience - I have nothing but good things to say about them to anyone who will listen.

The anker battery definitely will cool down your device. It seems like our stock battery takes a sh*t after about 3 months... Once I got the anker battery I loved the phone so much more, I recommended it to all my friends with sensations/mt4gs phones.
My one friend ended up getting himself 3 ankers, so he always keeps one on the wall charger, one in the phone, and one fully charged in his pocket. He doesn't even plug the phone into the wall anymore. If you do something like him, your phone will also avoid the heat involved with charging via usb
Sent from my RubiX ICS Infused using Tapatalk

leoilios said:
...
My one friend ended up getting himself 3 ankers, so he always keeps one on the wall charger, one in the phone, and one fully charged in his pocket. He doesn't even plug the phone into the wall anymore. If you do something like him, your phone will also avoid the heat involved with charging via usb
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, you trade wear and tear of one part for wear and tear on another. The wear and tear on the USB jack is much, much worse then the wear and tear on the battery contacts.
The USB jack will wear out long before the battery contacts wear down.
The other part of it is every time you open the back of the device you expose the internals to dust and environmental contaminants.
I'd say as long as it's clean, not dusty or anything when you make the switch, that's the better way to go - as long as they are the same battery (which is what you said your friend had ... all good there)
The big thing would be to not make the switch outside. Try to do it indoors, in still air.
The most dust-free room of any house is most likely the bathroom. Limited to no carpeting and usually much less air space for things to be floating around in, close the window and give it ten minutes to settle first and that's probably the best location to do it. Especially if it's real tile, that's the absolute least opportunity for all the dust and fine particulates on the floor in the rest of the house to be present.
So your friends mode of operation (if when changing the battery conscious of dust and fine particle contamination) is probably the best method to stay charged and put the least wear on the device - except maybe an induction charging backplate.
The only problem with the induction charger is finding a case you can work on it with. I don't have one, but if it's the same size as the standard phone dimensions, then you could use the trident case and not scratch the device up taking it off an on (the trident case is mostly soft plastic and rubber, not hard and sharp plastic)
The downfall to the induction charger is you need a charge plate every where you go, so once you factor that liability in, what your friend is doing with 3 Ankers is probably the best method to keep the phone charged while doing as little damage to it through normal wear and tear possible.
Score a point for creativity and efficiency. I might change my mind about the Mugen and just get a few more Ankers to duplicate the method, after thinking about it. If there's a better way, why do anything else? That seems like it'd be worth buying the extra batteries for, i'll just pay attention and snipe some on sale.
Thanks for sharing, that's a happy tidbit of info and i'm definitely going to work towards implementing it. I want this device to last me as long as I can make it, and any way of taking better care of it or doing something like the battery swap method that just makes way more sense is always welcome to hear about.
----
I should've gone to sleep already since I have to get moving in just a few short hours - but after typing out my previous reply I figured i'd swap my stock battery since you shouldn't let them sit without being used for a long period of time.
(I wish I could charge the stock batteries out of the device, I could copy a shorter version of that method with my two stock batteries - oh well.)
Anyways, when I did, I noticed something. Each came with one of my devices, and they are both the same battery, but they are backwards. It looks like it was deliberate, too, because all the markings are correct for + / - and whatnot.
Don't know what to make of it, so I figured i'd share just to get the info out there in case it's of use to anyone - (for what, I have no idea) - but they both suck equally, so there's no benefit of less heat for one or the other, and they both last about the same amount of time near as I can tell without actually measuring.
Doesn't seem like one lasts longer then the other, and i'm pretty sensitive to that kind of stuff. If people are curious i'll measure them a couple of times each and see for sure, if not I won't waste my time when there's other work to do.
Anyways, I snapped some pictures of it to illustrate what I mean, since describing it would end up being confusing for some and i'm half delerious as it is.
They are both the same:
- brand = (HTC)
- model = (BG58100)
- Rating = (3.7VDC)
- Capacity = (1520 mAh)
- Watt Hours = (5.62Whr)
Different serial numbers, and Different part numbers.
The one that shows the writing/bar code side up when installed in the device is:
- part number 35H00150-00m
The one that shows the blank side up when installed in the device is:
- part number 35H00153-00m
Does anyone out there have any other part numbers for the stock batteries? I wonder how many versions there are and if there are any differences between them.
Two of my friends got this device after seeing all the cool stuff I could do with it and being less then impressed with the devices the rest of our/their friends had - they needed a hardware keyboard too so obviously this was the answer.
I will check their stock batteries and see what they are, if it's anything different i'll post that too - might take a few days or so to get ahold of them and find out.
I should have noticed this a long time ago. Anyways, here's the pics to illustrate the outward differences:

no worrys i just charged my phone all night and its workin good again, and i do have anker. im on your bulletproof rom and ive been off the charger for an hour and ive been texting and playing games and its still at 100 percent

Blue if ur gonna copy my friend, keep the spare in a ziplock bag, moisture is one of the reasons people say u shouldn't leave them out and unused for long periods of time
Sent from my RubiX ICS Infused using Tapatalk

wiswis said:
no worrys i just charged my phone all night and its workin good again, and i do have anker. im on your bulletproof rom and ive been off the charger for an hour and ive been texting and playing games and its still at 100 percent
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome to hear you're in good shape again.
Was the problem you were having with the stock battery or the anker?
leoilios said:
Blue if ur gonna copy my friend, keep the spare in a ziplock bag, moisture is one of the reasons people say u shouldn't leave them out and unused for long periods of time
Sent from my RubiX ICS Infused using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have some nylon camera cases i've been using to carry around the doubleshots, and they have pockets that I slip things like memory cards, cables and the stock batteries in (whichever one isn't being used).
Appreciate the heads up, but I got the cases to keep the doubleshot behind a zipper to keep dust out, and when the accessories are in the zipper pockets they are protected enough. There isn't a lot of fog where I live, only rarely and otherwise the ambient moisture is not very high so it's not a big deal.
If I didn't have the cases, though, i'd definitely be using something like that. There were a couple of times I carried the doubleshot itself around in a ziplock bag back in august, if it was raining or going to rain that's how it left my house in my pocket. That's what prompted me to get the nylon cases - and though they aren't waterproof or anything, it's enough to not have to worry about it.
If i'm going to be in the rain then that's what I do - i'll have to come up with something better before it hits the rainy season around here - this time of year it doesn't rain often.

I'm having a similar problem, though not as extreme.
My phone's battery doesn't actually heat up but the area around the simcard. I'm running Pyroice with the extreme UV kernel and underclocked the CPU to 810mhz Max with setcpu 2.1.1a but it still warms up around the simcard area. I also never get anything better than 12hrs battery life.
Should I be worried?
sent via my messenger dog

cybot_x1024 said:
I'm having a similar problem, though not as extreme.
My phone's battery doesn't actually heat up but the area around the simcard. I'm running Pyroice with the extreme UV kernel and underclocked the CPU to 810mhz Max with setcpu 2.1.1a but it still warms up around the simcard area. I also never get anything better than 12hrs battery life.
Should I be worried?
sent via my messenger dog
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had this same problem from day one. Even with the anker battery, and on every rom I have tried. I sometimes use flat icepacks to cool it down when it gets too hot. I haven't found anything fix.
Sent from my Bulletproof_Doubleshot using XDA App

I use my Mugen as my regular battery and my two Ankers as spares. I only have the OEM battery in case I need to send it to T-Mobile.

So I got the model numbers from both stock batteries that my friends have for their phones. Both are the same.
- part number 35H00153-00m
...and that matches one of the ones I have from above.
Anyone else have any other model numbers on their stock batteries that are different?
It would be nice to know what's out there and if a particular model seems to do better then another.
----
I run both stock batteries in one phone, and the anker in the other. Very rarely does the anker device get hot enough that I take notice and pay attention to it, but it does happen.
The one swapping out stock batteries back and forth can trigger a battery switch if it has been two days and I haven't swapped, or it gets too hot.
If it gets too hot I turn it off, let it cool down and then turn it on with the other battery. I try to keep the one not in use as full as viable, but never less then about halfway for more then a short while.
Enough people have shown a serious reduction in heat of the device by using an aftermarket battery that we've concluded pretty solidly that the stock battery is responsible for a large portion of the excessive heat.
Heat is the number one enemy of these kinds of batteries and microprocessors. If it starts to get hot enough to be uncomfortable in your hands, then you should start thinking about letting it cool down before running it so hard.
It happens more frequently then i'd like with the device running stock batteries, but I always make the decision that whatever i'm doing isn't worth aging the device and reducing it's service life just because I couldn't stop using it for a few minutes to let it cool off. The money I spent on it means more the longer it's in service, abusing it unnecessarily is wasteful to me.
I'm pretty particular about things like that, just my way. Your mileage may vary.

Blue: my stock battery has the same product number
i can't really say i've noticed it getting hot enough to take notice of it, but then again, i mainly use the Anker, since i only need to charge it once a day.
i was wondering if there's a chance that the heat issue is something HTC addressed in the last OTA update? definitely hard to say, but possible i suppose. perhaps i can try using the stock battery on the newest stock ROM and see if it heats up.

I doubt it's a matter of software or we wouldn't see much if any change when swapping to a different battery like the mugen or anker.
Any theory is valid until disproven though, and you never know unless you try so let us know how it turns out.

Battery compartment & charging question

Hey people,
I have a quick question that google coudln't solve.
1. what does the information inside the battery compartment mean? (Wattage, rating, etc.)
2. If 2 phones have the same rating and use the same charger, why does one charge significantly faster than the other?
3. |EXTRA CREDIT| Is there anyway to hack a phone/battery to stay powered on beyond the default voltage?
Thanks in advance!!

Bump!! I googled and could not find any information.

drago10029 said:
Hey people,
I have a quick question that google coudln't solve.
1. what does the information inside the battery compartment mean? (Wattage, rating, etc.)
2. If 2 phones have the same rating and use the same charger, why does one charge significantly faster than the other?
3. |EXTRA CREDIT| Is there anyway to hack a phone/battery to stay powered on beyond the default voltage?
Thanks in advance!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. They're the ratings of the power supply (battery) the phone needs to operate. It needs that voltage to operate and the phone will draw that amount of current.
2. It could be anything from different battery capacities (if you're talking two different phone models, look for mAh on the batteries) to one phone doing more in the background than the other to minor manufacturing variations.
3. I don't understand what you mean by this question. I guess you're talking about how to get more battery life out of the phone? Google should help with that, you're probably just not wording the question properly.
Hope this helps.

drago10029 said:
Hey people,
I have a quick question that google coudln't solve.
1. what does the information inside the battery compartment mean? (Wattage, rating, etc.)
2. If 2 phones have the same rating and use the same charger, why does one charge significantly faster than the other?
3. |EXTRA CREDIT| Is there anyway to hack a phone/battery to stay powered on beyond the default voltage?
Thanks in advance!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. exactly what it means, wattage, etc
2. charger usb end could be wired differently, not all are wired the same even though they look the same
3. no .... i want the credit

@vincom @member thanks for the responses. and the 3rd was about the modding a phone/battery/kernel to utilize virtually the whole battery instead of shutting off at the usual voltage rating for the phone model.

drago10029 said:
@vincom @member thanks for the responses. and the 3rd was about the modding a phone/battery/kernel to utilize virtually the whole battery instead of shutting off at the usual voltage rating for the phone model.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Volt and mAh. You're probably talking about mAh.
I can't say I know, but, I think that roms such as CM will usually eat up all of the battery if you let it.
Also it's bad for these kind of batteries to be fully emptied. It decreases their volume so that every time you fully empty this battery it will charge a little bit less energy when recharged. It's better to leave a little bit of energy (like 5%). :good:

lingowistico said:
Volt and mAh. You're probably talking about mAh.
I can't say I know, but, I think that roms such as CM will usually eat up all of the battery if you let it.
Also it's bad for these kind of batteries to be fully emptied. It decreases their volume so that every time you fully empty this battery it will charge a little bit less energy when recharged. It's better to leave a little bit of energy (like 5%). :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Honestly at the rate most people switch phones and being the owner of a phone with a removable battery, As long as I'm getting the longest battery life that all that matter's thanks to companies like anker. also I understand your point though.

drago10029 said:
Honestly at the rate most people switch phones and being the owner of a phone with a removable battery, As long as I'm getting the longest battery life that all that matter's thanks to companies like anker. also I understand your point though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't get your point.
Do you mean that these phones are just throwaway devices like those red plastic liquor cups so you might as well squeeze all the juice out of it whil you're at it?
I've had my Skyrocket for a year now and I bought it used too. I'm going to keep it until it f**king dies from natural causes.
Not because I have to, but because I realized that I don't need a phone with an ultra HD display, an octa-core CPU and 8 gigs of ram.
It's past ridiculous now, now it's just redundant. The peak of the smartphone as we know it has come an end, see how the difference between the S3 and the S4 is not as big as it was between the S2 and the S3? Same thing with Iphone5 and 5S.
It's because there's no point. We don't need that much power in our phones. We don't even notice the difference in performance.
They have to come up with totally new stuff for the hype to rise again. They're going to drag it out though. Because you know, money.
There are some interesting ideas that are being held back on purpose, like the smartphone-dock that turns it into a PC. Do you see Apple / Samsung selling these docks? Of cource not. Because without it they can sell the same thing twice: as two separate devices.
Or how the software is made in a specifc manner that it makes your phone seem slow.. and it makes you want to buy an new and "better" phone. Really, software nowadays is like there's no such thing as optimization.
Haha pouring my soul out here lolz, cheerio mate
Meanwhile, here's Nokia's Morph concept:

lingowistico said:
I don't get your point.
Do you mean that these phones are just throwaway devices like those red plastic liquor cups so you might as well squeeze all the juice out of it whil you're at it?
I've had my Skyrocket for a year now and I bought used too. I'm going to keep it until it f**king dies from natural causes.
Not because I have to, but because I realized that I don't need a phone with an ultra HD display, an octa-core CPU and 8 gigs of ram.
It's past ridiculous now, now it's just redundant. The peak of smartphone as we know has come and went, see how the difference between the S3 and the S4 is not as big as it was between the S2 and the S3? Same thing with Iphone5 and 5S.
It's because there's no point. We don't need that much power in our phones. We don't even notice the difference in performance, unless they bug up the update for the older device so as to demonstrate how much "better" the new one is.
They have to come up with totally new stuff for the hype to rise again. They're going to drag it out though. Because you know, money.
There are some interesting ideas that are being held back on purpose, like the smartphone-dock that turns it into a PC. If you can sell both a PC and a smartphone, then why not?
Or how the software is made in a specifc manner that it makes your phone seem slow.. so as to make you buy a new and "faster" phone.
Haha pouring my soul out here lolz, cheerio mate
Meanwhile, here's Nokia's Morph concept:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel you sentiment friend.
I agree hence why I got a GS2 skyrocket. I agree as well the majority of innovation happening in phones is the wrong innovation!
Battery life can get better but it a lot more expensive for the consumer if it doesn't. and YOU'RE RIGHT companies are dragging things out but it's honestly because people are mindlessly buying into the galaxy and apple brand. It's sad for us tech dreamers and for true techies.
with that said I do believe I wanna just squeeze the maximum out of my device, within reason though. I believe the battery is within reason since if a batter ygoes beyong it's voltage it's longevity will be shorter but it's only 10$ for a replacement and that's super cheap IMO.
p.s. the nano technology would be awesome! CES has been a bust a lot of years so far because the big companies aren't really trying like you said anymore :/

drago10029 said:
I feel you sentiment friend.
I agree hence why I got a GS2 skyrocket. I agree as well the majority of innovation happening in phones is the wrong innovation!
Battery life can get better but it a lot more expensive for the consumer if it doesn't. and YOU'RE RIGHT companies are dragging things out but it's honestly because people are mindlessly buying into the galaxy and apple brand. It's sad for us tech dreamers and for true techies.
with that said I do believe I wanna just squeeze the maximum out of my device, within reason though. I believe the battery is within reason since if a batter ygoes beyong it's voltage it's longevity will be shorter but it's only 10$ for a replacement and that's super cheap IMO.
p.s. the nano technology would be awesome! CES has been a bust a lot of years so far because the big companies aren't really trying like you said anymore :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not that it's sad. It doesn't matter what brand it is, when your goal is to make as much money as possible then that's what you're going to do.
Yeah I know they're really cheap (at least the knockoffs) I even got two spare ones myself.
Actually, I usually use the battery until the phone dies off. I told you that just in case.
Also a battery's capacity is usually measured in milliampere-hour or mAh. Not voltage.
About CES, the big companies are trying very hard indeed, I'm sure thir R&D's are working their butts off. Behind closed doors.
So they can milk this cow for as long as possible.

lingowistico said:
It's not that it's sad. It doesn't matter what brand it is, when your goal is to make as much money as possible then that's what you're going to do.
Yeah I know they're really cheap (at least the knockoffs) I even got two spare ones myself.
Actually, I usually use the battery until the phone dies off. I told you that just in case.
Also a battery's capacity is usually measured in milliampere-hour or mAh. Not voltage.
About CES, the big companies are trying very hard indeed, I'm sure thir R&D's are working their butts off. Behind closed doors.
So they can milk this cow for as long as possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah i know about the mAh but voltage determines the cut off when the shut down happens.
also @vincom @lingowistico last thing lol i think....... I had a nother motive for getting this info, will this charger make my skyrocket charge faster?
http://www.amazon.com/PowerGen-2-4-...ndroid/dp/B0073FE1F0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

I didn't know that about voltage. You learn something all the time, huh? :good:
I have no idea about that charger, I barely passed the electronics class.

lingowistico said:
I didn't know that about voltage. You learn something all the time, huh? :good:
I have no idea about that charger, I barely passed the electronics class.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what about any charger? I want one that is gonna fill my battery as fast as possible! Can't be waitin' 3+ hours to charge my phone. My current charger is rated at 5 volts .7 mAh. I NEED a faster charger in my life.
this question is for anyone not just you lol

drago10029 said:
what about any charger? I want one that is gonna fill my battery as fast as possible! Can't be waitin' 3+ hours to charge my phone. My current charger is rated at 5 volts .7 mAh. I NEED a faster charger in my life.
this question is for anyone not just you lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't know, I know that it charges faster when turned off.

drago10029 said:
yeah i know about the mAh but voltage determines the cut off when the shut down happens.
also @vincom @lingowistico last thing lol i think....... I had a nother motive for getting this info, will this charger make my skyrocket charge faster?
http://www.amazon.com/PowerGen-2-4-...ndroid/dp/B0073FE1F0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That charger most likely will cause a wakelock. I've had similiar charges and they all caused wakelocks. Best bet....use the original charger the phone came with.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

EQ2192012 said:
That charger most likely will cause a wakelock. I've had similiar charges and they all caused wakelocks. Best bet....use the original charger the phone came with.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wakelock? Why is that?

drago10029 said:
Wakelock? Why is that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just speaking from expierience. I've had alot of similiar chargers..just all of them did cause wakelocks. I can't say this one will for sure...but i'd rather test a proven product than flip a coin. The original charger the Skyrocket comes with works good. A duel usb At&t branded also works good for me.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

EQ2192012 said:
Just speaking from expierience. I've had alot of similiar chargers..just all of them did cause wakelocks. I can't say this one will for sure...but i'd rather test a proven product than flip a coin. The original charger the Skyrocket comes with works good. A duel usb At&t branded also works good for me.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks but the original charger charges super slow! if you read above it takes a really long time for me. also wakelock would be worth faster charging. plus I can remove those easy

Phone battery acne (3 small leaks)

Bought a phone with cracked screen, opened it up to replace and noticed the battery is badly pitted, assumably from dirt which got inside. There is 3 points where it seems some acid leaked out and damage the back cover.
https://imgur.com/a/T9l34dU
Is it safe to use? There is no swelling and charges normally.

spix123 said:
Bought a phone with cracked screen, opened it up to replace and noticed the battery is badly pitted, assumably from dirt which got inside. There is 3 points where it seems some acid leaked out and damage the back cover.
https://imgur.com/a/T9l34dU
Is it safe to use? There is no swelling and charges normally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
REPLACE IT IMMEDIATELY IF YOU VALUE YOUR LIFE AND YOUR PROPERTY.
Lithium-ion batteries are unstable creations, even when they are working properly. The way they work, the layers of materials that store energy in the battery are separated, but can easily be corrupted and cause the materials to contact each other internally causing it to short and start a fire. I'm sure you've seen many reports about litium batteries exploding or randomly starting fires? Well, know you know why they started fires. Many people have been injured and killed due to lithuim battery fires/explosions. Including causing plane crashes when the load of lithium batteries that they are carrying explodes or starts a fire.
Sent from my LGL84VL using Tapatalk

Droidriven said:
REPLACE IT IMMEDIATELY IF YOU VALUE YOUR LIFE AND YOUR PROPERTY.
Lithium-ion batteries are unstable creations, even when they are working properly. The way they work, the layers of materials that store energy in the battery are separated, but can easily be corrupted and cause the materials to contact each other internally causing it to short and start a fire. I'm sure you've seen many reports about litium batteries exploding or randomly starting fires? Well, know you know why they started fires. Many people have been injured and killed due to lithuim battery fires/explosions. Including causing plane crashes when the load of lithium batteries that they are carrying explodes or starts a fire.
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Still using it a few months later, not blown me up yet

spix123 said:
Still using it a few months later, not blown me up yet
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That doesn't mean anything. Just because that is the result YOU got, does not mean that is the result that another 10, 100 or 1000 users would get. It is wiser not to trust lithium-ion technology that has been compromised.
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