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Chrome battery cover

Hi guys. I recently saw this (http://blog.whitesites.com/HTC-Sensation-4G-Chrome-Polished-Frame__634471425817343750_blog.htm) and decided to try this on my phone's battery cover. it looks pretty cool now, with the battery door shiny and mirrorish. you can try this out too, but make sure you dont sand the metal too hard after the dark blue paint falls off, because thats going to give it scratches that are hard to remove. you can use about 100 grit to remove the paint, then 400 to make the surface smooth. with the new look, i feel like i have a new phone again. haha

Post pictures when you are done! I was considering it too, but i really like the feel of the blue material...

shungun said:
Post pictures when you are done! I was considering it too, but i really like the feel of the blue material...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
here, ive uploaded a picture, its in the first post. i like the new texture now, it feels just as smooth as the front glass! and it feels cooler in my hand too (maybe because im touching the metal directly, and not through the paint)

Wow! That looks really good! I'll do this when i have time

So here is a little trick to go along with that. Since the blue / purple backing on the battery cover was a rubber composite, it tended to hold heat more. Now that you got that barrier off, here is the next step. Wrap your battery in aluminum foil and then put the cover on. Since aluminum foil doesn't conduct heat it will transfer it to the backing (since it doesn't actually touch the battery without the foil bridge) and dissipate the heat during use. This will keep your temperature down and for what it is worth, extend lifeline of the battery. I actually did this a long time ago (only in didn't sand the back, I soaked the cover in acetate solution and the rubber peeled right off) and it works fairly well, especially when using CPU for a duration like online music.

Woodrube said:
So here is a little trick to go along with that. Since the blue / purple backing on the battery cover was a rubber composite, it tended to hold heat more. Now that you got that barrier off, here is the next step. Wrap your battery in aluminum foil and then put the cover on. Since aluminum foil doesn't conduct heat it will transfer it to the backing (since it doesn't actually touch the battery without the foil bridge) and dissipate the heat during use. This will keep your temperature down and for what it is worth, extend lifeline of the battery. I actually did this a long time ago (only in didn't sand the back, I soaked the cover in acetate solution and the rubber peeled right off) and it works fairly well, especially when using CPU for a duration like online music.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cool, what made you put that cover into the solution? sounds much better cos it doesnt leave scratches. where do you get it?
if you allow heat to go into the cover, wont the phone feel much hotter in your hand? and wouldnt it affect the temperature of the lcd? my phone gets hot sometimes when charging, so i just remove the cover and leave the phone standing on the windowsill to prevent that.

Acetate is really nothing more than nail polish remover. I was getting my Google on a long time ago and came across it. Some kid with an XT did a YouTube video on it.
Since the heat is dissipating out the back, it doesn't effect the LCD on the front. The cover doesn't get too hot and actually the phone runs cooler bc the heat has somewhere to go.
Think of it like a wetsuit. You are totally dry and warm when fully covered, but open the neck a bit and your whole body gets cold. Phone is same way bc of the rubber coating. Remove that and the heat has somewhere to go and not stay trapped inside and cause possible damage to battery and CPU.

Mi4c Overheat hardmodding [passive cooling]: Graphite heat dissipation foil

Hardmod level: easy - medium
Well finally i recieved the Graphite heat dissipation foil from Aliexpress, according to seller this foil has a thermal conductivity about 1800W/m.k (wich would be very nice, don't know how much it is in reality).
So the hardmod can begin ;D.
First of all i will probably answer your main question. Will this modding really help ?
Hmm ... i can't answer it... I made tests before and after and i could'nt realize much difference. But heat gets really transfered as you can see in the pictures later.
Maybe it needs more and accurate testing.
But if you expect much less overheating you schould'nt do that. Installing RR 5.8.0 helped me more.
If you wanna try it tough here comes my small guide (if not at least enjoy the pictures ;D):
Edit: GPS Signal isn't able to get a fix anymore. If you would do this tough you have to discover why. It looks like that the graphit foil disturbs the gps antenna, so you have to cut out a hole around the gps antenna.
First of all you have to remove the back cover, i did it with a guitar plectrum.
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Then i searched for the heat source and noticed that there is a small passiv cooling already:
Red circle shows thermal paste wich get connected with the cpu. The piece behind the paste is a metal plate wich distribute the heat.
Made a benchmark and measured to show you:
Next i cut the Graphite foil in the right size and sticked it on the metal plate:
Sticked it over the power and volume buttons (yes buttons are still working withouth problems), added back case, and frame of case:
Now some testings how the heat get distributed:
At least i put the mi4c into a case (with some space behind for let the air cooling a little bit) for good looking:
Thats it. If you have some other tipps to hardmod the overheat or improve my modding just tell me.

Air has bad conductivity of heat, so high temperature will stay inside of your phone
Sent from my Mi-4c using XDA-Developers Legacy app

@Pikachu8119
What do you mean with air.
Theoretically the Graphit foil (wich you can see outside of the back case) is connected to the cpu of the phone and transports the heat outside like i have written and shown in the pictures.

Danny94 said:
@Pikachu8119
What do you mean with air.
Theoretically the Graphit foil (wich you can see outside of the back case) is connected to the cpu of the phone and transports the heat outside like i have written and shown in the pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By saying "At least i put the mi4c into a case (with some space behind for let the air cooling a little bit)" what did you mean?
Is it about the space between back cover and case?
Sent from my Mi-4c using XDA-Developers Legacy app

@Pikachu8119
Ahh.
Well, that part mean the Graphite Foil should get cooled by air. Because [theoretically] if the foil has no space/air, sometime it reaches the same temperature as the phone and no heat could get transported anymore.. This way it just delay the overheat.
But if the air can cool down the foil a little bit it won´t never reach the same temperature =) (heat exchange).

Danny94 said:
@Pikachu8119
Ahh.
Well, that part mean the Graphite Foil should get cooled by air. Because [theoretically] if the foil has no space/air, sometime it reaches the same temperature as the phone and no heat could get transported anymore.. This way it just delay the overheat.
But if the air can cool down the foil a little bit it won´t never reach the same temperature =) (heat exchange).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"theoretically" air layer won't let the heat come out because of bad heat conductivity
Sent from my Mi-4c using XDA-Developers Legacy app

@Pikachu8119
Does you mean the air between the outer case and the Graphite Foil ?
-> Of course it won´t take much heat, but better then nothing.
Each passive cooling system needs Air.
Same concept like there.
The heat got transfered from the cpu into this metal piece and the air around this piece got heated -> The air take the heat away.

Danny94 said:
@Pikachu8119
Does you mean the air between the outer case and the Graphite Foil ?
-> Of course it won´t take much heat, but better then nothing.
Each passive cooling system needs Air.
Same concept like there.
The heat got transfered from the cpu into this metal piece and the air around this piece got heated -> The air take the heat away.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, but each cooler has its fan and it's hermetically connected with processor by thermopaste
Sent from my Mi-4c using XDA-Developers Legacy app

@Pikachu8119
It's true with a fan it would work much better, but thats almost impossible to build in =).
But as you can see in the second picture thermal paste is used to connect the processor and the metal plate behind. The glue on the Graphite Foil works like thermal paste too. So its quite the same just with 2 layers =).
Thermal paste -> metal plate -> thermal paste -> graphite foil.
EDIT: Maybe the metal plate is isolated on the back, i didn´t check it well. That could be a problem and the reason of bad results...

Danny94 said:
@Pikachu8119
It's true with a fan it would work much better, but thats almost impossible to build in =).
But as you can see in the second picture thermal paste is used to connect the processor and the metal plate behind. The glue on the Graphite Foil works like thermal paste too. So its quite the same just with 2 layers =).
Thermal paste -> metal plate -> thermal paste -> graphite foil.
EDIT: Maybe the metal plate is isolated on the back, i didn´t check it well. That could be a problem and the reason of bad results...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check temps with phone sensors in programs like Aida, cpuz, etc.
Sent from my Mi-4c using XDA-Developers Legacy app

@Pikachu8119
It's not very meaningful, because it depends on much factors.
But ok there you go:
Rom: RR 5.8.0-20161211 dirty flashed since release.
Power mode/profile: balanced.
Room temperature: 22°c.
Made a restart before testings.
Let cpu-z running behind antutu test for get instant results.
First test:
Second (immediately after):
Third:

So it kinda worked I see, because mine normal Mi4c starts loosing score right after, first benchmark test. Great!

@itsignas
Yeah it's working, but not as much as you think now probably after those images =).
Most of it the Rom ensures cool running.

speading heat over battery isn't a good idea. Heating is not a problem until it is hot enough to melt something. Some part of the phone may get hot but if it is between the ranges no need to take action. replacing thermal paste with a more heat conductive one may help to decrease temperature (plate will become hotter and heat transfer between air and plate will increase) but this seems useless my friend (even dangerous if it makes battery get hotter).

@esmeraldo18
No it doesn't heat up the battery, if you follow well the pictures you can see that i transfer the heat of the plate over the battery outside -> makes it cooler (little bit) around the battery.
Outside it isn´t sticked on the back cover of the phone, it's enough space. So no heat up for battery.

(1)*** EASY HW Mod for cooling the phone!!!

Hi you my friends. This is my first post in this forum,
and I've reading you since 2011, tweaking roming etc. So it's my time to contribute. I develop myself a few abilities related to hardware modifications, in old consoles,phones and PC's which gives to me a sense of "ausence of fear" when I begin a new work, so, this is my contribution for the problem of overheating from this phone
After opening the rear case, and extracting all the screws with the screwdriver you only have to detach first the speaker black down zone with your nails (don't worry if you haven't got) and the upper black plastic cover, which shows to us all the motherboard and all from this phone. The idea is very simple.
LG does not seem to place a proper passive cooling system which is in the Lumia 950XL or thermal paste on the Snap 810 2.1 Nexus 6P, INSTEAD, they put a simple insulating rubber between the Processor and the screen, which turns it into a doom, a true hot hell.
If you do the simple mod i'm going to describe, you will never hurt your hands from touching the screen caused by the heat.
1: detach all the cables from the motherboard, or only the two cameras (with your nail)
2: see the processor in the reverse of the motherboard touching the screen and extract this ****ing insulating rubber with your nails and instead of it, put foil paper and around the area to make a full working cooling system. Close the phone and enjoy.
The things I notice is when i am web browsing the phone is at 100% of the brightness and does not overheat. And when i turn it on the phone does not overheat also. Which is good. Maybe this little trick will help you to don't lose or "burn" your phone and have it like a brick.
Easyness: 4.5/5
Time: 5/5
Effectivity: 4/5

HiramAbiff said:
Hi you my friends. This is my first post in this forum,
and I've reading you since 2011, tweaking roming etc. So it's my time to contribute. I develop myself a few abilities related to hardware modifications, in old consoles,phones and PC's which gives to me a sense of "ausence of fear" when I begin a new work, so, this is my contribution for the problem of overheating from this phone
After opening the rear case, and extracting all the screws with the screwdriver you only have to detach first the speaker black down zone with your nails (don't worry if you haven't got) and the upper black plastic cover, which shows to us all the motherboard and all from this phone. The idea is very simple.
LG does not seem to place a proper passive cooling system which is in the Lumia 950XL or thermal paste on the Snap 810 2.1 Nexus 6P, INSTEAD, they put a simple insulating rubber between the Processor and the screen, which turns it into a doom, a true hot hell.
If you do the simple mod i'm going to describe, you will never hurt your hands from touching the screen caused by the heat.
1: detach all the cables from the motherboard, or only the two cameras (with your nail)
2: see the processor in the reverse of the motherboard touching the screen and extract this ****ing insulating rubber with your nails and instead of it, put foil paper and around the area to make a full working cooling system. Close the phone and enjoy.
The things I notice is when i am web browsing the phone is at 100% of the brightness and does not overheat. And when i turn it on the phone does not overheat also. Which is good. Maybe this little trick will help you to don't lose or "burn" your phone and have it like a brick.
Easyness: 4.5/5
Time: 5/5
Effectivity: 4/5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what

There is a thread somewhere with someone doing this with a small sheet of copper instead of foil. They also reported an improvement in heat and performance.
Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk

danslb said:
There is a thread somewhere with someone doing this with a small sheet of copper instead of foil. They also reported an improvement in heat and performance.
Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's nice. It's good to see that with easy tools you can fix the main problem of the phone. With only a screwdriver and foil the results are very, very good. I'm a bit proud of that, that i can play the top 10 gameloft games without any kind of slow down or shuttering.
Thanks for the info :good:

I would strongly advise against doing this cooling mod. The "insulating rubber" the OP is talking about is actually a thermal pad, which facilitates thermal transfer between the CPU package and the metal frame inside the phone (same function as thermal paste between a heatsink and CPU) . By removing it and replacing it with foil, it is breaking thermal contact with the metal frame. Yes, the phone doesn't feel as hot, but that is because the heat is no longer conducted to and dissipated by the metal frame, and the heat is trapped in the CPU and motherboard. Though the phone has lower surface temperatures, the trapped heat is unhealthy for the device in the long term and causes more throttling, as well as risking damage to the internal components (especially the battery).
As such, a viable thermal mod would be to replace the stock thermal pad with a high quality 1mm thermal pad (such as the Fujipoly 17 W/mk ones, can be found on Amazon for around $10~20) as well as placing 0.5mm thermal pads on the metal shield around the CPU. I may be putting up pictures of this in a separate post if I have the time.
To the OP, I recommend you replace the foil with a high quality thermal pad, before the excessive heat burns up your device
Cheers!

Heat dissipation through phone case

Hello to all,
I use my phone in a booklet phone case.
When I use the phone inside my car with Android Auto wireless I noticed that it gets really hot. I checked the battery temperature.
Especially as it is summer now, the ambient temperatures are higher than a couple of months ago.
I now have on a regular base 37-38°C battery temperature (read by Accubattery app).
At 39°+ I noticed that the phone slows down (in order to prevent heat damage).
Therefore I wonder if a head transfer tape could improve heat dissipation. I'm thinking of a tape like on GPUs in computer hardware.
I found something on Aliexpress:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003391217799.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.2.3b6c70d4Do2bNy&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.274681.0&scm_id=1007.13339.274681.0&scm-url=1007.13339.274681.0&pvid=45b86060-38ea-4e8a-a9ce-51254861be9a&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.13339.274681.0%2Cpvid%3A45b86060-38ea-4e8a-a9ce-51254861be9a%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238114%231999&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000025672972360%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%223339%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21CHF%21%211.33%21%21%21%21%21%402101d1ad16546778477633194e3ff4%2112000025672972360%21rec&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
My idea is to put the tape between the back cover and phone case to improve heat transfer.
Does anyone have experience with this?
Do you think that this could lead to lower battery temperatures?
Thank you very much.

SOFO888 said:
Hello to all,
I use my phone in a booklet phone case.
When I use the phone inside my car with Android Auto wireless I noticed that it gets really hot. I checked the battery temperature.
Especially as it is summer now, the ambient temperatures are higher than a couple of months ago.
I now have on a regular base 37-38°C battery temperature (read by Accubattery app).
At 39°+ I noticed that the phone slows down (in order to prevent heat damage).
Therefore I wonder if a head transfer tape could improve heat dissipation. I'm thinking of a tape like on GPUs in computer hardware.
I found something on Aliexpress:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003391217799.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.2.3b6c70d4Do2bNy&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.274681.0&scm_id=1007.13339.274681.0&scm-url=1007.13339.274681.0&pvid=45b86060-38ea-4e8a-a9ce-51254861be9a&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.13339.274681.0%2Cpvid%3A45b86060-38ea-4e8a-a9ce-51254861be9a%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238114%231999&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000025672972360%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%223339%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21CHF%21%211.33%21%21%21%21%21%402101d1ad16546778477633194e3ff4%2112000025672972360%21rec&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
My idea is to put the tape between the back cover and phone case to improve heat transfer.
Does anyone have experience with this?
Do you think that this could lead to lower battery temperatures?
Thank you very much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It depends on the material that your case is made of. Using some kind of thermal absorbing material between the phone and the case might extract the heat from the device but if your case doesn't dissipate the heat absorbed by the thermal material, the heat will just be trapped between the back cover and your case, which isnt really an improvement.
Try a different case or no case.

The phone stays in a silicone case which is glued to the booklet made of PU.
PU does not have a good thermal conductivity. Perhaps I could add some holes so that the heat dissipation tape gets ambient air.

SOFO888 said:
The phone stays in a silicone case which is glued to the booklet made of PU.
PU does not have a good thermal conductivity. Perhaps I could add some holes so that the heat dissipation tape gets ambient air.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe a small portable cooling pad like used with small laptops would help or a small 12v fan that plugs into a 12v outlet in your car.

I already thought about a fan.
I ordered an ESR wireless charger with Cryoboost (cooling fan) to check if charging would be possible with fan.

Building my own battery

New batteries for the XDA Exec/JasJar are not available anymore, so I want to try to equip my old battery with new cells.
I found a suitably thin pair of 3.7v Lipo batteries as a replacement.
I managed to open the old battery and remove the old cells without incident.
The question is now: should I remove the old battery management sysmte I found inside or use the new cells with their own BMS?
The old battery has four contacts, positive, negative, one thermistor and a status indicator.
The new cells I have only have two contacts, positive and negative.
Will the phone work with the middle contacts not being connected? If I remove the BMS of the new cells and connect them to the old BMS, the cells are a different capacity. Would that matter?

You want the thermistor to monitor battery temperature. The power controller may puke all over you without that input and go into default mode. Whatever that is.
Charge state is voltage based so if the cell voltage ratings are the same as the OEM ones it should work. If you solder to the cells you better be quick and proficient at soldering with a temp controlled iron 45-85 watts (I go for 650-720F) and 63/37 flux core solder. Pre-tin any wires...

I soldered the new cells to the old BMS and it's working fine.
The soldering wasn't quick though. The solder was very reluctant to sticking to the metal strips, despite me roughing them up with sand paper and using extra flux. Any suggestions of how to make solder stick more readily?
Is the cell potentially unsafe now? Is there a much higher risk that it will spontaneasly burst into flames?

You should pre tin it. I will aggressively rub the tinned iron tip* on the surface with lots of rosin flux to get it to tin. OK to use excess solder and allow it to drip off as it carries away the contaminants. Allow to cool. On problem surfaces I'll waste a lot of solder just to get them to tin. Got to go with the flow... did production soldering for decades
Once both surfaces are pre tinned then solder. 37/63 solder works best; lower melting point, flows better.
You're probably ok as long as there's no noticable or battery bulging. Maybe do a test cycle or two with the cover loose to test it and make sure the thermistor is still reasonably accurate.
*greatly reduces tip lifespan. Normally you avoid do this. I reccomend using at least a 65 watt iron to overcome the battery's heat sinking capacity. Lower btu's mean unwanted excessive heating of the battery due to excessive heating time. Sometimes bumping up the iron temperature yields a faster solder joint but speed is of essence. Loitering with the heat more then a few seconds is to be avoided. Using the right size/shape tip can increase the heat transfer and help to minimize contact time. Sanding is normally never used to clean solder surfaces in electronics. It may make it harder. Make sure the surface doesn't have a conformal coating, if so remove it first. Brillo pad to clean tips of burnt build up; they don't cut into the tip plating on the tinned zone (destroying them).
I use tips that have a large tinned zone as smaller zones (measured from tip back) will foul much quicker as the burst rosin accumulates no matter how often you wet sponge it and well you keep them tinned.
Get as much tip surface area on the zone to be solder as possible at the get. Soldering is a skill/art that requires practice to learn.

Even aluminum solders easily. Except aluminum oxide doesn't.
Apply oil, sandpaper it, solder through the oil.

Renate said:
Even aluminum solders easily. Except aluminum oxide doesn't.
Apply oil, sandpaper it, solder through the oil.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. Cool trick if it works.
Never had to play with that much. Cheap steel lead electronic components are a pain.
Apparently using a very high tin content solder helps, but any zinc chloride if used must be completely removed. Check its melting point first...
Also immediately after soldering quench the battery with a damp cloth to cool it more rapidly.

Any kind of oil? Sunflower oil?

naujoks said:
Any kind of oil? Sunflower oil?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, I just did a check of my assertion.
I used spray canola oil from the dollar store.

Renate said:
Lol, I just did a check of my assertion.
I used spray canola oil from the dollar store.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rosin flux is the O2 sheild when soldering... and it won't permeate into the display. Just use liquid or paste rosin flux and Emery cloth, etc.