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Chrome battery cover

Hi guys. I recently saw this (http://blog.whitesites.com/HTC-Sensation-4G-Chrome-Polished-Frame__634471425817343750_blog.htm) and decided to try this on my phone's battery cover. it looks pretty cool now, with the battery door shiny and mirrorish. you can try this out too, but make sure you dont sand the metal too hard after the dark blue paint falls off, because thats going to give it scratches that are hard to remove. you can use about 100 grit to remove the paint, then 400 to make the surface smooth. with the new look, i feel like i have a new phone again. haha

Post pictures when you are done! I was considering it too, but i really like the feel of the blue material...

shungun said:
Post pictures when you are done! I was considering it too, but i really like the feel of the blue material...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
here, ive uploaded a picture, its in the first post. i like the new texture now, it feels just as smooth as the front glass! and it feels cooler in my hand too (maybe because im touching the metal directly, and not through the paint)

Wow! That looks really good! I'll do this when i have time

So here is a little trick to go along with that. Since the blue / purple backing on the battery cover was a rubber composite, it tended to hold heat more. Now that you got that barrier off, here is the next step. Wrap your battery in aluminum foil and then put the cover on. Since aluminum foil doesn't conduct heat it will transfer it to the backing (since it doesn't actually touch the battery without the foil bridge) and dissipate the heat during use. This will keep your temperature down and for what it is worth, extend lifeline of the battery. I actually did this a long time ago (only in didn't sand the back, I soaked the cover in acetate solution and the rubber peeled right off) and it works fairly well, especially when using CPU for a duration like online music.

Woodrube said:
So here is a little trick to go along with that. Since the blue / purple backing on the battery cover was a rubber composite, it tended to hold heat more. Now that you got that barrier off, here is the next step. Wrap your battery in aluminum foil and then put the cover on. Since aluminum foil doesn't conduct heat it will transfer it to the backing (since it doesn't actually touch the battery without the foil bridge) and dissipate the heat during use. This will keep your temperature down and for what it is worth, extend lifeline of the battery. I actually did this a long time ago (only in didn't sand the back, I soaked the cover in acetate solution and the rubber peeled right off) and it works fairly well, especially when using CPU for a duration like online music.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cool, what made you put that cover into the solution? sounds much better cos it doesnt leave scratches. where do you get it?
if you allow heat to go into the cover, wont the phone feel much hotter in your hand? and wouldnt it affect the temperature of the lcd? my phone gets hot sometimes when charging, so i just remove the cover and leave the phone standing on the windowsill to prevent that.

Acetate is really nothing more than nail polish remover. I was getting my Google on a long time ago and came across it. Some kid with an XT did a YouTube video on it.
Since the heat is dissipating out the back, it doesn't effect the LCD on the front. The cover doesn't get too hot and actually the phone runs cooler bc the heat has somewhere to go.
Think of it like a wetsuit. You are totally dry and warm when fully covered, but open the neck a bit and your whole body gets cold. Phone is same way bc of the rubber coating. Remove that and the heat has somewhere to go and not stay trapped inside and cause possible damage to battery and CPU.

[Teardown] What is the material on the shielding covers ?

Dear all,
I have spent some time disassembling my Nexus 5 and I found that the shielding cover that faces the die-casting has a strange "gold" tape on it (cf. picture enclosed).
I am curious, does anyone know what is it ? Is it a "high" thermal conductivity material that send the heat to the die-casting ? Or is is electrically non-conductive material that avoid leakage ?
I am a bit concerned because if it is for heat transfer, why not putting something on the CPU too ?
Thx for your feedbacks.

fredo490 said:
Dear all,
I have spent some time disassembling my Nexus 5 and I found that the shielding cover that faces the die-casting has a strange "gold" tape on it (cf. picture enclosed).
I am curious, does anyone know what is it ? Is it a "high" thermal conductivity material that send the heat to the die-casting ? Or is is electrically non-conductive material that avoid leakage ?
I am a bit concerned because if it is for heat transfer, why not putting something on the CPU too ?
Thx for your feedbacks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the service manual it descripted as "Can Assembly,Shield" and the clips of it named as "SMT Boss / Screw / Shield can frame"

The best person to ask would be @AdamOutler. Can you give any insight?

Woven copper tape is both thermally and electrically conductive. Its been a while since I looked inside mine, so I don't really remember it.
Those schematics are funny though.. Ground connected to pin 1... 25 times

AdamOutler said:
Woven copper tape is both thermally and electrically conductive. Its been a while since I looked inside mine, so I don't really remember it.
Those schematics are funny though.. Ground connected to pin 1... 25 times
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!

AdamOutler said:
Woven copper tape is both thermally and electrically conductive. Its been a while since I looked inside mine, so I don't really remember it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So it is a copper tape, thanks for the info. But why is the color so "yellow"? It doesn't actually look like copper.
There is still a thing that I don't understand: the hot spot should be the CPU, why not contacting it to the die casting instead of the shielding cover ?! To me, there is something that doesn't really make sense in this design.
Edit: interesting enough, it seems that the LG G3 uses the same concept (cf. enclosed). Die casting in the middle with this "gold" tape on the shielding cover. It seems to be a reference design for LG.

AdamOutler said:
Woven copper tape is both thermally and electrically conductive. Its been a while since I looked inside mine, so I don't really remember it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We use this stuff at work for RF gaskets for EMC. Here's an example: LeaderTech SF030PCU-CA
My guess is that it's to complete the EMI shield around the cutouts for the SoC and the couple of other parts poking through. Look at the mill-out where the PCB sits on the chassis for the SoC. By doing this, they can shave off a mm or two on the phone.
Those schematics are funny though.. Ground connected to pin 1... 25 times
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those are all the ground points on the board that aren't part of components. Like screw holes, friction ground contacts, and the shield can. Standard stuff to throw odds and ends that don't make sense elsewhere in the schematic on a single page. On some of the stuff I work on, with hundreds of 11x17 pages for a single board, it's not uncommon to have pages dedicated to holes, bypass caps, and mechanical stuff, all with no regard to pin numbers.
fredo490 said:
So it is a copper tape, thanks for the info. But why is the color so "yellow"? It doesn't actually look like copper.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably some sort of alloy, nickel/copper. See the link above. Pure copper would corrode too easily.
There is still a thing that I don't understand: the hot spot should be the CPU, why not contacting it to the die casting instead of the shielding cover ?! To me, there is something that doesn't really make sense in this design..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, a common misconception about chip packaging.
High power chips like PC CPUs need a lot of heat pulled away from them quickly, and the most efficient way is by facing the back of the die away from the package PCB so a heatsink can be slapped on top. These always are left open-top or have a heat spreader of some sort.
But for most chips, the back of the die is bonded to the package PCB (or leadframe) and bond wires used to jumper the die to the package. For chips that need to be cooled, there are dozens or hundreds of vias in the package PCB (metal plated holes through the PCB) and BGA pads on the other sides of the vias. These are called thermals, and conduct heat from the chip die to pads on the BGA. If you look at the back of a typical BGA, these show up as a separated square array of pads in the middle.
The designer of the PCB that uses this chip will design in thermals between the BGA thermal pads and the ground layer(s). The ground layers are nearly solid sheets of copper, and the thermal vias let it act as a heat spreader.
Also, the SoC in the N5 is a multi-chip package (MCP) and has a second BGA with the DRAM sitting on top of the Snapdragon BGA. The Snapdragon BGA PCB has solder balls on top that make contact with the DRAM BGA. It's all covered in rich creamy epoxy, which isn't all that good at conducting heat.
All this leads up to the top of the Snapdragon 800 package being the least useful place to try pulling away heat.

pokey9000 said:
Those are all the ground points on the board that aren't part of components. Like screw holes, friction ground contacts, and the shield can. Standard stuff to throw odds and ends that don't make sense elsewhere in the schematic on a single page. On some of the stuff I work on, with hundreds of 11x17 pages for a single board, it's not uncommon to have pages dedicated to holes, bypass caps, and mechanical stuff, all with no regard to pin numbers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Believe me, I've worked with plenty of schematics before. I just find it funny that they would label chasis ground as pin 1. Generally that's just ground. Someone obviously had too much time on their hands, considering its an EM shield being called pin 1.

AdamOutler said:
Believe me, I've worked with plenty of schematics before. I just find it funny that they would label chasis ground as pin 1. Generally that's just ground. Someone obviously had too much time on their hands, considering its an EM shield being called pin 1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it depends on the EDA tool and the whim of the library maintainer. From the little symbol creation I've done in KiCAD I think pin number visibility can be turned off for a symbol. I'm looking right now at one of our designs, and half the page is plated drill holes, each numbered pin 1. What's better, on the same page is a single high current screw terminal with 4 leads holding it to the board. It's one solid piece of metal, but the symbol shows pins 1-4.

fredo490 said:
Dear all,
I have spent some time disassembling my Nexus 5 and I found that the shielding cover that faces the die-casting has a strange "gold" tape on it (cf. picture enclosed).
I am curious, does anyone know what is it ? Is it a "high" thermal conductivity material that send the heat to the die-casting ? Or is is electrically non-conductive material that avoid leakage ?
I am a bit concerned because if it is for heat transfer, why not putting something on the CPU too ?
Thx for your feedbacks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Going slightly off topic, but could you say if there's something such as a warranty sticker when you open your Nexus to tell that it has been opened?
Thanks in advanced.

ImSoBored said:
Going slightly off topic, but could you say if there's something such as a warranty sticker when you open your Nexus to tell that it has been opened?
Thanks in advanced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't find any warranty sticker in mine. However, it is quite obvious to find if the device has been opened because of the tape holding the back cover. It is almost impossible to open and close it without "damaging" the tape.

fredo490 said:
I didn't find any warranty sticker in mine. However, it is quite obvious to find if the device has been opened because of the tape holding the back cover. It is almost impossible to open and close it without "damaging" the tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, guess I'll have to wait till my warranty is gone. Still more than one year to go... Thanks btw

Changing display

My display damaged and i wanna to ask you smth guys.
How difficulty is it to change it by myself?
I watch this video "
" and i concluded its pretty easy to change it. But the only tool i dont have is the heatgun the other tools i can buy.
Tell me your opinion. Is it easy to do?

Can't tell if it's easy, but in other situations that I needed a heat gun and didn't have one, I used a hair dryer, which is way more common to have at home, or at least easier to borrow from a neighbor or something like that

Watch tear down and repair vids.
If a repair shop will let you watch them do it.
ESD, learn and understand what it is. Discreet components ie the display and mobo are very susceptible to it out of circuit.
Bare minimum protection is a bare wood surface to work on and a relative room humidity of 50% or better. A earth grounded ESD mat and wrist strap is best
Disconnect the battery as soon as possible in the disassembly process. Discharge below 40% if possible before starting.
Have all the drivers, picks, fine precision tweezers, and tools needed. Excellent light and a 2X or so optical visor be nice.
Inspect for additional damage*.
Have a set of OEM seals and now's a good time to replace the battery if it's performance has noticably dropped.
Take pictures disassembling if needed. It must be put back together exactly as it was.
Do Not over torgue screws... less is better.
Be very careful not to damage the ribbon microconnectors.
Take your time, no rush.
*any impact that can break the display or bend the frame can damage the mobo. High G loads or direct impacts can damage chipsets internally, fracture solder joints and internally damaged multilayered mobo PCB internal traces.

I did it three days ago, bc my mix 3 had contact with water.
Its kind of easy to do with a hairdryer and a small plastic tool.
The hardest part is to glue it back together.
(But I have to say my screen didn't work afterwards. The expert in the phone repair store said its maybe a problem on the motherboard)

slowmotion11 said:
I did it three days ago, bc my mix 3 had contact with water.
Its kind of easy to do with a hairdryer and a small plastic tool.
The hardest part is to glue it back together.
(But I have to say my screen didn't work afterwards. The expert in the phone repair store said its maybe a problem on the motherboard)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the battery isn't promptly removed and especially if it's not immediately powered down the current can cause corrosion and short out circuits. The power section is particularly vulnerable. Try again, inspect mobo and the ribbon connectors for signs of corrosion and moisture. Use bright light and magnification.
Is it completely dry? A good soaking with anhydrous isopropyl will help remove hidden water. Again dry completely afterwards. Getting the underside of BGA chipsets dry is imperative.
The micro connectors tend to trap moisture too.
Careful use of compressed air can be very useful but the key word here is careful. Don't stick a nozzle with 100 psi an inch or two from the mobo! Either use low pressure clean, dry air or back it up for high pressure air.
Use your best judgment... it's a bit of an art.
After you dry it as good as possible let it sit in a warm, dry room with a fan on it. Complete drying may take days without disassembly.

Thank you for the tips! I will try it like you described

The same is true with flooded cars, promptly pulling the battery can limit the damage even save the vehicle.
Be wary on flood damage vehicles for sale now, always check for water lines/marks
Most will suffer impossible electrical problems forever. Brine water always kills...

Heat dissipation through phone case

Hello to all,
I use my phone in a booklet phone case.
When I use the phone inside my car with Android Auto wireless I noticed that it gets really hot. I checked the battery temperature.
Especially as it is summer now, the ambient temperatures are higher than a couple of months ago.
I now have on a regular base 37-38°C battery temperature (read by Accubattery app).
At 39°+ I noticed that the phone slows down (in order to prevent heat damage).
Therefore I wonder if a head transfer tape could improve heat dissipation. I'm thinking of a tape like on GPUs in computer hardware.
I found something on Aliexpress:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003391217799.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.2.3b6c70d4Do2bNy&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.274681.0&scm_id=1007.13339.274681.0&scm-url=1007.13339.274681.0&pvid=45b86060-38ea-4e8a-a9ce-51254861be9a&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.13339.274681.0%2Cpvid%3A45b86060-38ea-4e8a-a9ce-51254861be9a%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238114%231999&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000025672972360%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%223339%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21CHF%21%211.33%21%21%21%21%21%402101d1ad16546778477633194e3ff4%2112000025672972360%21rec&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
My idea is to put the tape between the back cover and phone case to improve heat transfer.
Does anyone have experience with this?
Do you think that this could lead to lower battery temperatures?
Thank you very much.

SOFO888 said:
Hello to all,
I use my phone in a booklet phone case.
When I use the phone inside my car with Android Auto wireless I noticed that it gets really hot. I checked the battery temperature.
Especially as it is summer now, the ambient temperatures are higher than a couple of months ago.
I now have on a regular base 37-38°C battery temperature (read by Accubattery app).
At 39°+ I noticed that the phone slows down (in order to prevent heat damage).
Therefore I wonder if a head transfer tape could improve heat dissipation. I'm thinking of a tape like on GPUs in computer hardware.
I found something on Aliexpress:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003391217799.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.2.3b6c70d4Do2bNy&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.274681.0&scm_id=1007.13339.274681.0&scm-url=1007.13339.274681.0&pvid=45b86060-38ea-4e8a-a9ce-51254861be9a&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.13339.274681.0%2Cpvid%3A45b86060-38ea-4e8a-a9ce-51254861be9a%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238114%231999&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000025672972360%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%223339%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21CHF%21%211.33%21%21%21%21%21%402101d1ad16546778477633194e3ff4%2112000025672972360%21rec&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
My idea is to put the tape between the back cover and phone case to improve heat transfer.
Does anyone have experience with this?
Do you think that this could lead to lower battery temperatures?
Thank you very much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It depends on the material that your case is made of. Using some kind of thermal absorbing material between the phone and the case might extract the heat from the device but if your case doesn't dissipate the heat absorbed by the thermal material, the heat will just be trapped between the back cover and your case, which isnt really an improvement.
Try a different case or no case.

The phone stays in a silicone case which is glued to the booklet made of PU.
PU does not have a good thermal conductivity. Perhaps I could add some holes so that the heat dissipation tape gets ambient air.

SOFO888 said:
The phone stays in a silicone case which is glued to the booklet made of PU.
PU does not have a good thermal conductivity. Perhaps I could add some holes so that the heat dissipation tape gets ambient air.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe a small portable cooling pad like used with small laptops would help or a small 12v fan that plugs into a 12v outlet in your car.

I already thought about a fan.
I ordered an ESR wireless charger with Cryoboost (cooling fan) to check if charging would be possible with fan.

How To Guide Thermal pad copper mod for poco x3 pro

Hello, this would be like my first big post here on xda :3
==Materials==
-> Thermal paste
-> Tools
-> Thermal pad copper 0.3mm thick
-> Thermal pad 0.5mm thick
-> Copper plate 1mm thick (optional)*
-> Isopropyl alcohol
-> Fine sandpaper
-> Copper tape
-> Kapton tape
***** Cpu throttle results on end of post *****
***Last update https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/thermal-pad-copper-mod-for-poco-x3-pro.4479421/post-88354655 ***
===Idea===
Based on other mods the idea is to fill the space between the cpu and the heatsink, when i opened my phone i realized the space that existed, here we will remove the copper only from the cpu and memory area, we will also replace the thermal pad. Remember to use isopropyl alcohol to clean the cpu and memory surfaces.
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The copper pad must be 0.3mm thick and make a cut as in the photo,apply thermal paste between cpu and pad, forget to take photos of the memory pad, but once clean, cut out a small square and glue it, then put copper tape on top.
Apply a little thermal paste, not too much as it will spread when pressed. Clean the heatsink with isopropyl alcohol, lightly scrape the marked areas (optional)* and clean again to remove residue.
Assemble the phone carefully and press the plate slightly until everything fits.
==================================================
After months i do not recommend putting copper or a thermal pad on the battery, since the battery are on top of the heatpipe and will absorb the heat, putting thermal mass on top will cause it to accumulate more in the battery, i will update about it soon
=====Results=======
i think it's worth it, it's down -10c degrees aprox.
About the battery: i use a 5v 2a charger, but i used the original charger to see what the temperature is, from what i could see the temperature rises but only up to 36c° (due to the fast charge of course)
without charging the temperature doesnt rise 31C ° during the tests i did.
I'm not a fan of antutu but here it is, i use crdroid 8.7 without mods, the idea of this is to see that the temperatures are maintained, not the score in general.
idle temps
I hope the post is understandable, thanks for reading ^^

Really cool! I was just looking for something like this yesterday.
Is the .5mm pad for the memory, if so, could you explain where did you put it on?
Also, when you say '"glue it", what is acting as glue exactly?

palopaxo said:
Really cool! I was just looking for something like this yesterday.
Is the .5mm pad for the memory, if so, could you explain where did you put it on?
Also, when you say '"glue it", what is acting as glue exactly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the 0.5mm thermal pad is for memory, when i open the phone it already has a thermal pad but i preferred to replace it anyway.
the thermal pad is a bit sticky, cut a piece to fit the hole and put copper tape on top to, in addition to holding it, give it thermal conductivity
cut out with this shape, the heating pad I used was light blue
the memory just need thermal pad and copper tape on top, the cpu needs thermal paste + cooper pad 0.3mm and thermal paste again, dont put copper tape on the cpu, already have the copper pad so you don't need the tape there

Na de locos, thx you so much

This guy knows his stuff! Thanks man, I will try to combine this mod with the battery upgrade(from BN57 to BN61)!

Thanks for your Tutorial! You helped me a Lot doin it on my Mi 10t pro

Any video tutorial for this?

Kuato said:
Any video tutorial for this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, sorry for the late reply. I do not have a video and it is possible that i will not remove the board again until next year, since it currently works perfectly for me, a detail if my battery heats up in the summer (about 35ºC) so soon i plan to extend it a little more the heatpipe in addition to insulating the battery from the heatpipe (with aerogel if i get it), since the heat from the cpu usually heats it up quickly (in winter it did not happen of course)
I can only tell you that after performing the mod the screen heats up, which is a symptom that the cpu is in contact with the heatpipe and is in turn with the screen (cpu -> heatpipe -> grapite sheet back on screen -> screen) so the heat is dissipating correctly

Tsuragi said:
Hi, sorry for the late reply. I do not have a video and it is possible that i will not remove the board again until next year, since it currently works perfectly for me, a detail if my battery heats up in the summer (about 35ºC) so soon i plan to extend it a little more the heatpipe in addition to insulating the battery from the heatpipe (with aerogel if i get it), since the heat from the cpu usually heats it up quickly (in winter it did not happen of course)
I can only tell you that after performing the mod the screen heats up, which is a symptom that the cpu is in contact with the heatpipe and is in turn with the screen (cpu -> heatpipe -> grapite sheet back on screen -> screen) so the heat is dissipating correctly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try tomorrow. I bought copper plate 15x15mm 0.3mm thick. Is that size is correct?

Kuato said:
I'll try tomorrow. I bought copper plate 15x15mm 0.3mm thick. Is that size is correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just add copper plate on CPU and overall CPU temperature just drop around 3-4°C Lower than usual. Also the screen seems warmer while playing a games. but somehow it cool down faster than before. I might tried to add copper plate on back cover later. Thanks @Tsuragi

I tried this mod since november 3rd . it's help the thermal coductivity more effectively .still reaching the 81c but no throttling happen and the phone is warm because of faster heat transfer. I tried the .5mm but it's pressing the back of lcd change back to .3mm and I use ctg9 13.5w/mk and ap12 thermal pad 14.8w/mk . better than re paste only.I meeasure the cpu socket is 14.5mm in length . memory depth is 0 .7 mm. pmic depth 0.8 mm . so it's better to use the 1mm thermal pad with good thermal conductivity . I'm living here in philippines. so far so good. best thermal mod ever for x3 pro sd860.
Thanks @Tsuragi
Before and after.

EXTRA: adding the copper pad can prevent the death issue, most initial failures seem to be related to a bad connection between the CPU and the motherboard (display issues for example), bridging the gap between the CPU and the heat pipe might help as we prevent this from separating from the dash.
The temps are better dissipated by having more thermal mass, but the heat will not go away. using the thermal pad ends up heating the battery a little more, the 0.3 mm cooper pad just fit good for me.
Regarding the battery, it should not get too hot from use, due to fast charging of course (with 5V 2A charger the temps dont up). my package has not yet arrived with the heatpipes and the aerogel that I ordered, in the meantime I have tried this. (Sorry the bad quality images)
I currently have it as in the photo and with a cover, I have space so I could add a heatpipe in the area and keep it with the cover forever.
In addition to replacing the copper there, I added kapton tape on top of the pmic (?) Maybe a thermal pad would have been better but I didn't want to risk it, I notice that this area gets hot since the cpu is on the other side. The interesting thing is that by adding another heatpipe the battery heats up less.
***that means the internal heatpipe gets less hot since the heat is distributed in both heatpipes***
My current problem is that the heat accumulates inside the mobile and ends up heating up the battery. As long as the heat does not come out of the phone, the time it takes to reach high temperatures will improve. Now based on what I've seen from the steam deck, i don't think it's profitable to add a fan to the mobile.
what can be improved is to isolate the battery from the body of the phone, avoiding the heat of the heatpipe, my battery currently does not exceed 36 degrees even so i would prefer to be in a range of 20-30; on the cpu usually playing genshin for example 30 fps everything in low quality I am between 50-60 degrees, for me it is acceptable but the battery heats up due the hot heatpipe.
Regarding the CPU, the extra improvement that can be made would be to add more thermal mass to further extend the time it takes for the phone to heat up.
***maybe it will still get to 80c but it will take longer and probably the cpu will cool faster too****
Soon i will add that when i receive the packages and if it works i will update the post.
------------Note:-------------
The battery can be isolated, but to make space near the camera it is necessary to remove the nfc antenna, the bluetooth will continue to work but you lose the nfc, i never used it so I removed it.
**You have been warned**. maybe the antenna can be cut so that the nfc continues to work but I am not sure if it works
--------------------------------
Future upgrade example:

Update:
Insulating the battery with airgel was a bad idea, the heat accumulates more.
temporarily i try separate the battery from the phone by 2mm with tape , as a result it heats up slower and cools down slower, that's the detail.
i use genshin for test this every low 60fps (domains runs)
batt stock
batt tape mod
the battery stayed colder for longer, the little problem of course once at 35 degrees it stayed at that temperature the rest of the day
(summer here is 30-38c°).
i try fornite and well..
but the battery is fine and with ngk you can limit the cpu temps to 70 i try that and works
About adding more heatsink to the phone I'm still thinking about how to do it due add more things requires a custom case, i would have to make one but that would be the choice of each user. and still.. any thing can heat the battery if its close.
maybe maybe i can remplace the camera cover with metal add thermal paste on that, maybe scrape one of the edges of the frame to be able to add a copper sheet that makes direct contact with the cpu, so the heat would go out as well and any external cooler near the camera would do an excellent job if battery dont heats up of course.

Hello just do your mod.. I dont have any problem with my pocox3p.. But so insecure with the dead issue..
Here the pic
1.the execution
2. Compare x3p, redmi note 10 pro, mipad 4
3. Throtling test...
Have u try graphite sheet? I heard its better than coppee for the back cover.. Thx very much for this article..
The room temp is 26°c

Bruce.clark said:
Hello just do your mod.. I dont have any problem with my pocox3p.. But so insecure with the dead issue..
Here the pic
1.the execution
2. Compare x3p, redmi note 10 pro, mipad 4
3. Throtling test...
Have u try graphite sheet? I heard its better than coppee for the back cover.. Thx very much for this article..
The room temp is 26°c
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
bruh, copper plate to fat

I change the thermalpaste using cooler master cyrofuze which have 14w/mk, before i use grizzly aeronaut 8w/mk... And heres the throtling test.. The performance is better.. Also the temp room around 25°c..

this is perfect with a cooler, what do you guys think?

Hello again, after so long. This will be the last update of the post, my work doesn't give me too much time and time passes quickly, my little x3 pro has been alive since december 2021, great news.
I tried to record again but my laptop's camera is disgusting, there will only be photos, from the original post i finally made 2 modifications, separate the battery from the body with kapton tape and add a thermal pad to send the heat out.
==== separate the battery===
thats my laptop camera
join 4 layers of kapton tape and make strips, these will be glued between the body and the battery, avoiding the heat pipe, this will make room, the battery tends to get hot from the heat pipe.
===== adding a thermal pad =====
buy a thermal pad (i use thermal pad grizzly 1.0mm) and cut a shape like this, this will join the heat pipe to the top of the board, **remember to put the battery and slide it down a bit, so that there is space for the thermal pad**
with this, the battery will heat up less and the heat will tend to heat the protector of the phone.
==== This will only improve the temp of the battery, it can improve the temperature of the cpu a little ====
=== extra ===
this is more personal, you can sacrifice the nfc antenna to make a hole, fill with another strip of thermal pad and put another heat pipe (from aliexpress) on top, buy an aluminum protector, scratch and connect the thermal pad with the cover, this should greatly improve the use of coolers (like funcooler for example).
=====results=======
As the last update of the post, i did my tests without a cooler and with the funcooler 2 pro (intelligent profile, it can be better with extreme profile of course).(crdroid 7-ngk kernel- balance profile). **stock = with thermal mod without cooler**
Lately I've seen a lot posts of bricks but so far i haven't even had random reboots or any bugs. With the temp. monitor in fdroid you can make a record of all the sensors, the problems with the pmic are known, i suggest taking care of the temperature of the pmic if you have the mobile without modifications. Thank you all.

PART 1
Hello peeps.
I had also done a mod on my vayu and thanks to this thread I got motivation and ideas to do even more things to try to keep this thing cooler during gaming.
I don't have pic of the internals but I did the copper pad mod on the cpu and also added a 0.1mm copper sheet on the heat pipe under the battery covering all the area in an attempt to spread the heat on all the screen area plus add some more mass of copper ofc.
Used some strips of kapton tape on the copper sheet and between the battery to try to insulate the heat going to the battery. (Dunno if that really helps but I dont notice battery heat up more anyway)
I did a cut on the plastic cover of the nfc antenna like tsuragi did since I also don't care about nfc and I just added few layers of 0.3mm of copper on top of each other.
I would like to add a heat pipe like he did but can't find in my country and bored of ordering and waiting lol.
as we know this mod really helps with temps but on the rare occations that the cpu is on continuous load soon or later it's gonna hit high temps again. (By high temps I mean like 75c + that in my opinion is unacceptable)
I had to dissipate the heat somehow so this is what I did.
I did a cut on the back cover since I use the phone always with a case I don't really care of having a hole there.
I then added some thermal pad that is like mold and it's not the silicon one.
That way I can add another very thin sheet of copper to try to dissipate heat out of the phone somehow.
It really helps on daily usage using a case and since the copper is thin the case fits perfectly.
I know there is still the case covering the copper but it's better than nothing since finally the heat can somehow go outside of the phone.
Mostly saw improvement on the battery temps by 2c but still after long period of excessive loading was hitting high temps like 78c max in some rare occations.

PART 2
I bought this phone mostly for emulation and ofc as a daily driver smartphone.
I don't play gensin or cod but I play some mmorpg and moba that don't really heat up the smartphone at dangerous levels that in my opinion are like 75c plus.
The only game for some reason that used to heat up my x3 was the Colin McRae 3 on aethersx and it used to hit like 80c on cpu before making the copper mod.
The cpu throttle test app was showing 89% to 91% cpu throttling at 100threads.
After the copper mods I had max 78c on cpu on Colin McRae but took more time to get there,and 93% to 95% throttle freq on throttling cpu test app so it was improvement but wanted to try something more.
Since I had now an open "window" to that heat inside the smartphone
I wanted to find a way to dissipate the heat out somehow.
That's where the smartphone peltier cooler comes in.
These coolers are not just a fan that u attach to smartphone but they have a thermoelectric element inside that can get pretty cold using electricity.
So this is what I did.
I took another case and did a cut on it to add some 0.4mm copper sheet that will be touching the exposed copper on the cut on the phones back that I made and then get attached to the cooler in order to freeze it and help cool down the phone.