Hello,
I have this generic horizontal case that I grabbed at a local Best Buy store. I can't find it online to link to it, but the case has 2 rather strong magnets on the flap that when closed are right smack in the middle of the battery.
When the phone is in the case, within minutes, the phone gets relatively hot. If I remove it from the case, it cools of in a matter of minutes and never gets hot while out of the case.
I'm pretty sure the on/off switch is not being pressed while in the case, its recessed a bit in the case.
I'm wondering if those magnets are what's causing the phone to get much hotter while in the case.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
I'd bet the magnets are causing the phone to go into dock mode. I have the Body Glove case that AT&T sells & there is no warmth from my phone when in locked & in standby.
Dunno about dock mode, but magnetism and electricity are part of the same force ... electromagenetism. Those magnets should not be strong enough to cause any ill effects, but anything is possible. May be that one of them is over an electronic component (perhaps a transistor) and is just strong enough to cause it to "lock" in the wrong position. Perhaps docking mode ... I don't know why that would cause so much heat ... but if it locked the radio into full power transmit mode this would certainly account for the heat as the expended electricity from the battery would become RF energy and heat.
.... just theory
maybe you could wrap your phone in a towel or other such sort of insulator and see if the heat problem is still there, or open the stiching on the case and reposition the magnets, or remove them entirely and sew some velcro in their place.
Good Luck!!
Hi you my friends. This is my first post in this forum,
and I've reading you since 2011, tweaking roming etc. So it's my time to contribute. I develop myself a few abilities related to hardware modifications, in old consoles,phones and PC's which gives to me a sense of "ausence of fear" when I begin a new work, so, this is my contribution for the problem of overheating from this phone
After opening the rear case, and extracting all the screws with the screwdriver you only have to detach first the speaker black down zone with your nails (don't worry if you haven't got) and the upper black plastic cover, which shows to us all the motherboard and all from this phone. The idea is very simple.
LG does not seem to place a proper passive cooling system which is in the Lumia 950XL or thermal paste on the Snap 810 2.1 Nexus 6P, INSTEAD, they put a simple insulating rubber between the Processor and the screen, which turns it into a doom, a true hot hell.
If you do the simple mod i'm going to describe, you will never hurt your hands from touching the screen caused by the heat.
1: detach all the cables from the motherboard, or only the two cameras (with your nail)
2: see the processor in the reverse of the motherboard touching the screen and extract this ****ing insulating rubber with your nails and instead of it, put foil paper and around the area to make a full working cooling system. Close the phone and enjoy.
The things I notice is when i am web browsing the phone is at 100% of the brightness and does not overheat. And when i turn it on the phone does not overheat also. Which is good. Maybe this little trick will help you to don't lose or "burn" your phone and have it like a brick.
Easyness: 4.5/5
Time: 5/5
Effectivity: 4/5
HiramAbiff said:
Hi you my friends. This is my first post in this forum,
and I've reading you since 2011, tweaking roming etc. So it's my time to contribute. I develop myself a few abilities related to hardware modifications, in old consoles,phones and PC's which gives to me a sense of "ausence of fear" when I begin a new work, so, this is my contribution for the problem of overheating from this phone
After opening the rear case, and extracting all the screws with the screwdriver you only have to detach first the speaker black down zone with your nails (don't worry if you haven't got) and the upper black plastic cover, which shows to us all the motherboard and all from this phone. The idea is very simple.
LG does not seem to place a proper passive cooling system which is in the Lumia 950XL or thermal paste on the Snap 810 2.1 Nexus 6P, INSTEAD, they put a simple insulating rubber between the Processor and the screen, which turns it into a doom, a true hot hell.
If you do the simple mod i'm going to describe, you will never hurt your hands from touching the screen caused by the heat.
1: detach all the cables from the motherboard, or only the two cameras (with your nail)
2: see the processor in the reverse of the motherboard touching the screen and extract this ****ing insulating rubber with your nails and instead of it, put foil paper and around the area to make a full working cooling system. Close the phone and enjoy.
The things I notice is when i am web browsing the phone is at 100% of the brightness and does not overheat. And when i turn it on the phone does not overheat also. Which is good. Maybe this little trick will help you to don't lose or "burn" your phone and have it like a brick.
Easyness: 4.5/5
Time: 5/5
Effectivity: 4/5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what
There is a thread somewhere with someone doing this with a small sheet of copper instead of foil. They also reported an improvement in heat and performance.
Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk
danslb said:
There is a thread somewhere with someone doing this with a small sheet of copper instead of foil. They also reported an improvement in heat and performance.
Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's nice. It's good to see that with easy tools you can fix the main problem of the phone. With only a screwdriver and foil the results are very, very good. I'm a bit proud of that, that i can play the top 10 gameloft games without any kind of slow down or shuttering.
Thanks for the info :good:
I would strongly advise against doing this cooling mod. The "insulating rubber" the OP is talking about is actually a thermal pad, which facilitates thermal transfer between the CPU package and the metal frame inside the phone (same function as thermal paste between a heatsink and CPU) . By removing it and replacing it with foil, it is breaking thermal contact with the metal frame. Yes, the phone doesn't feel as hot, but that is because the heat is no longer conducted to and dissipated by the metal frame, and the heat is trapped in the CPU and motherboard. Though the phone has lower surface temperatures, the trapped heat is unhealthy for the device in the long term and causes more throttling, as well as risking damage to the internal components (especially the battery).
As such, a viable thermal mod would be to replace the stock thermal pad with a high quality 1mm thermal pad (such as the Fujipoly 17 W/mk ones, can be found on Amazon for around $10~20) as well as placing 0.5mm thermal pads on the metal shield around the CPU. I may be putting up pictures of this in a separate post if I have the time.
To the OP, I recommend you replace the foil with a high quality thermal pad, before the excessive heat burns up your device
Cheers!
Hello, this would be like my first big post here on xda :3
==Materials==
-> Thermal paste
-> Tools
-> Thermal pad copper 0.3mm thick
-> Thermal pad 0.5mm thick
-> Copper plate 1mm thick (optional)*
-> Isopropyl alcohol
-> Fine sandpaper
-> Copper tape
-> Kapton tape
***** Cpu throttle results on end of post *****
***Last update https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/thermal-pad-copper-mod-for-poco-x3-pro.4479421/post-88354655 ***
===Idea===
Based on other mods the idea is to fill the space between the cpu and the heatsink, when i opened my phone i realized the space that existed, here we will remove the copper only from the cpu and memory area, we will also replace the thermal pad. Remember to use isopropyl alcohol to clean the cpu and memory surfaces.
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The copper pad must be 0.3mm thick and make a cut as in the photo,apply thermal paste between cpu and pad, forget to take photos of the memory pad, but once clean, cut out a small square and glue it, then put copper tape on top.
Apply a little thermal paste, not too much as it will spread when pressed. Clean the heatsink with isopropyl alcohol, lightly scrape the marked areas (optional)* and clean again to remove residue.
Assemble the phone carefully and press the plate slightly until everything fits.
==================================================
After months i do not recommend putting copper or a thermal pad on the battery, since the battery are on top of the heatpipe and will absorb the heat, putting thermal mass on top will cause it to accumulate more in the battery, i will update about it soon
=====Results=======
i think it's worth it, it's down -10c degrees aprox.
About the battery: i use a 5v 2a charger, but i used the original charger to see what the temperature is, from what i could see the temperature rises but only up to 36c° (due to the fast charge of course)
without charging the temperature doesnt rise 31C ° during the tests i did.
I'm not a fan of antutu but here it is, i use crdroid 8.7 without mods, the idea of this is to see that the temperatures are maintained, not the score in general.
idle temps
I hope the post is understandable, thanks for reading ^^
Really cool! I was just looking for something like this yesterday.
Is the .5mm pad for the memory, if so, could you explain where did you put it on?
Also, when you say '"glue it", what is acting as glue exactly?
palopaxo said:
Really cool! I was just looking for something like this yesterday.
Is the .5mm pad for the memory, if so, could you explain where did you put it on?
Also, when you say '"glue it", what is acting as glue exactly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the 0.5mm thermal pad is for memory, when i open the phone it already has a thermal pad but i preferred to replace it anyway.
the thermal pad is a bit sticky, cut a piece to fit the hole and put copper tape on top to, in addition to holding it, give it thermal conductivity
cut out with this shape, the heating pad I used was light blue
the memory just need thermal pad and copper tape on top, the cpu needs thermal paste + cooper pad 0.3mm and thermal paste again, dont put copper tape on the cpu, already have the copper pad so you don't need the tape there
Na de locos, thx you so much
This guy knows his stuff! Thanks man, I will try to combine this mod with the battery upgrade(from BN57 to BN61)!
Thanks for your Tutorial! You helped me a Lot doin it on my Mi 10t pro
Any video tutorial for this?
Kuato said:
Any video tutorial for this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, sorry for the late reply. I do not have a video and it is possible that i will not remove the board again until next year, since it currently works perfectly for me, a detail if my battery heats up in the summer (about 35ºC) so soon i plan to extend it a little more the heatpipe in addition to insulating the battery from the heatpipe (with aerogel if i get it), since the heat from the cpu usually heats it up quickly (in winter it did not happen of course)
I can only tell you that after performing the mod the screen heats up, which is a symptom that the cpu is in contact with the heatpipe and is in turn with the screen (cpu -> heatpipe -> grapite sheet back on screen -> screen) so the heat is dissipating correctly
Tsuragi said:
Hi, sorry for the late reply. I do not have a video and it is possible that i will not remove the board again until next year, since it currently works perfectly for me, a detail if my battery heats up in the summer (about 35ºC) so soon i plan to extend it a little more the heatpipe in addition to insulating the battery from the heatpipe (with aerogel if i get it), since the heat from the cpu usually heats it up quickly (in winter it did not happen of course)
I can only tell you that after performing the mod the screen heats up, which is a symptom that the cpu is in contact with the heatpipe and is in turn with the screen (cpu -> heatpipe -> grapite sheet back on screen -> screen) so the heat is dissipating correctly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try tomorrow. I bought copper plate 15x15mm 0.3mm thick. Is that size is correct?
Kuato said:
I'll try tomorrow. I bought copper plate 15x15mm 0.3mm thick. Is that size is correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just add copper plate on CPU and overall CPU temperature just drop around 3-4°C Lower than usual. Also the screen seems warmer while playing a games. but somehow it cool down faster than before. I might tried to add copper plate on back cover later. Thanks @Tsuragi
I tried this mod since november 3rd . it's help the thermal coductivity more effectively .still reaching the 81c but no throttling happen and the phone is warm because of faster heat transfer. I tried the .5mm but it's pressing the back of lcd change back to .3mm and I use ctg9 13.5w/mk and ap12 thermal pad 14.8w/mk . better than re paste only.I meeasure the cpu socket is 14.5mm in length . memory depth is 0 .7 mm. pmic depth 0.8 mm . so it's better to use the 1mm thermal pad with good thermal conductivity . I'm living here in philippines. so far so good. best thermal mod ever for x3 pro sd860.
Thanks @Tsuragi
Before and after.
EXTRA: adding the copper pad can prevent the death issue, most initial failures seem to be related to a bad connection between the CPU and the motherboard (display issues for example), bridging the gap between the CPU and the heat pipe might help as we prevent this from separating from the dash.
The temps are better dissipated by having more thermal mass, but the heat will not go away. using the thermal pad ends up heating the battery a little more, the 0.3 mm cooper pad just fit good for me.
Regarding the battery, it should not get too hot from use, due to fast charging of course (with 5V 2A charger the temps dont up). my package has not yet arrived with the heatpipes and the aerogel that I ordered, in the meantime I have tried this. (Sorry the bad quality images)
I currently have it as in the photo and with a cover, I have space so I could add a heatpipe in the area and keep it with the cover forever.
In addition to replacing the copper there, I added kapton tape on top of the pmic (?) Maybe a thermal pad would have been better but I didn't want to risk it, I notice that this area gets hot since the cpu is on the other side. The interesting thing is that by adding another heatpipe the battery heats up less.
***that means the internal heatpipe gets less hot since the heat is distributed in both heatpipes***
My current problem is that the heat accumulates inside the mobile and ends up heating up the battery. As long as the heat does not come out of the phone, the time it takes to reach high temperatures will improve. Now based on what I've seen from the steam deck, i don't think it's profitable to add a fan to the mobile.
what can be improved is to isolate the battery from the body of the phone, avoiding the heat of the heatpipe, my battery currently does not exceed 36 degrees even so i would prefer to be in a range of 20-30; on the cpu usually playing genshin for example 30 fps everything in low quality I am between 50-60 degrees, for me it is acceptable but the battery heats up due the hot heatpipe.
Regarding the CPU, the extra improvement that can be made would be to add more thermal mass to further extend the time it takes for the phone to heat up.
***maybe it will still get to 80c but it will take longer and probably the cpu will cool faster too****
Soon i will add that when i receive the packages and if it works i will update the post.
------------Note:-------------
The battery can be isolated, but to make space near the camera it is necessary to remove the nfc antenna, the bluetooth will continue to work but you lose the nfc, i never used it so I removed it.
**You have been warned**. maybe the antenna can be cut so that the nfc continues to work but I am not sure if it works
--------------------------------
Future upgrade example:
Update:
Insulating the battery with airgel was a bad idea, the heat accumulates more.
temporarily i try separate the battery from the phone by 2mm with tape , as a result it heats up slower and cools down slower, that's the detail.
i use genshin for test this every low 60fps (domains runs)
batt stock
batt tape mod
the battery stayed colder for longer, the little problem of course once at 35 degrees it stayed at that temperature the rest of the day
(summer here is 30-38c°).
i try fornite and well..
but the battery is fine and with ngk you can limit the cpu temps to 70 i try that and works
About adding more heatsink to the phone I'm still thinking about how to do it due add more things requires a custom case, i would have to make one but that would be the choice of each user. and still.. any thing can heat the battery if its close.
maybe maybe i can remplace the camera cover with metal add thermal paste on that, maybe scrape one of the edges of the frame to be able to add a copper sheet that makes direct contact with the cpu, so the heat would go out as well and any external cooler near the camera would do an excellent job if battery dont heats up of course.
Hello just do your mod.. I dont have any problem with my pocox3p.. But so insecure with the dead issue..
Here the pic
1.the execution
2. Compare x3p, redmi note 10 pro, mipad 4
3. Throtling test...
Have u try graphite sheet? I heard its better than coppee for the back cover.. Thx very much for this article..
The room temp is 26°c
Bruce.clark said:
Hello just do your mod.. I dont have any problem with my pocox3p.. But so insecure with the dead issue..
Here the pic
1.the execution
2. Compare x3p, redmi note 10 pro, mipad 4
3. Throtling test...
Have u try graphite sheet? I heard its better than coppee for the back cover.. Thx very much for this article..
The room temp is 26°c
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
bruh, copper plate to fat
I change the thermalpaste using cooler master cyrofuze which have 14w/mk, before i use grizzly aeronaut 8w/mk... And heres the throtling test.. The performance is better.. Also the temp room around 25°c..
this is perfect with a cooler, what do you guys think?
Hello again, after so long. This will be the last update of the post, my work doesn't give me too much time and time passes quickly, my little x3 pro has been alive since december 2021, great news.
I tried to record again but my laptop's camera is disgusting, there will only be photos, from the original post i finally made 2 modifications, separate the battery from the body with kapton tape and add a thermal pad to send the heat out.
==== separate the battery===
thats my laptop camera
join 4 layers of kapton tape and make strips, these will be glued between the body and the battery, avoiding the heat pipe, this will make room, the battery tends to get hot from the heat pipe.
===== adding a thermal pad =====
buy a thermal pad (i use thermal pad grizzly 1.0mm) and cut a shape like this, this will join the heat pipe to the top of the board, **remember to put the battery and slide it down a bit, so that there is space for the thermal pad**
with this, the battery will heat up less and the heat will tend to heat the protector of the phone.
==== This will only improve the temp of the battery, it can improve the temperature of the cpu a little ====
=== extra ===
this is more personal, you can sacrifice the nfc antenna to make a hole, fill with another strip of thermal pad and put another heat pipe (from aliexpress) on top, buy an aluminum protector, scratch and connect the thermal pad with the cover, this should greatly improve the use of coolers (like funcooler for example).
=====results=======
As the last update of the post, i did my tests without a cooler and with the funcooler 2 pro (intelligent profile, it can be better with extreme profile of course).(crdroid 7-ngk kernel- balance profile). **stock = with thermal mod without cooler**
Lately I've seen a lot posts of bricks but so far i haven't even had random reboots or any bugs. With the temp. monitor in fdroid you can make a record of all the sensors, the problems with the pmic are known, i suggest taking care of the temperature of the pmic if you have the mobile without modifications. Thank you all.
PART 1
Hello peeps.
I had also done a mod on my vayu and thanks to this thread I got motivation and ideas to do even more things to try to keep this thing cooler during gaming.
I don't have pic of the internals but I did the copper pad mod on the cpu and also added a 0.1mm copper sheet on the heat pipe under the battery covering all the area in an attempt to spread the heat on all the screen area plus add some more mass of copper ofc.
Used some strips of kapton tape on the copper sheet and between the battery to try to insulate the heat going to the battery. (Dunno if that really helps but I dont notice battery heat up more anyway)
I did a cut on the plastic cover of the nfc antenna like tsuragi did since I also don't care about nfc and I just added few layers of 0.3mm of copper on top of each other.
I would like to add a heat pipe like he did but can't find in my country and bored of ordering and waiting lol.
as we know this mod really helps with temps but on the rare occations that the cpu is on continuous load soon or later it's gonna hit high temps again. (By high temps I mean like 75c + that in my opinion is unacceptable)
I had to dissipate the heat somehow so this is what I did.
I did a cut on the back cover since I use the phone always with a case I don't really care of having a hole there.
I then added some thermal pad that is like mold and it's not the silicon one.
That way I can add another very thin sheet of copper to try to dissipate heat out of the phone somehow.
It really helps on daily usage using a case and since the copper is thin the case fits perfectly.
I know there is still the case covering the copper but it's better than nothing since finally the heat can somehow go outside of the phone.
Mostly saw improvement on the battery temps by 2c but still after long period of excessive loading was hitting high temps like 78c max in some rare occations.
PART 2
I bought this phone mostly for emulation and ofc as a daily driver smartphone.
I don't play gensin or cod but I play some mmorpg and moba that don't really heat up the smartphone at dangerous levels that in my opinion are like 75c plus.
The only game for some reason that used to heat up my x3 was the Colin McRae 3 on aethersx and it used to hit like 80c on cpu before making the copper mod.
The cpu throttle test app was showing 89% to 91% cpu throttling at 100threads.
After the copper mods I had max 78c on cpu on Colin McRae but took more time to get there,and 93% to 95% throttle freq on throttling cpu test app so it was improvement but wanted to try something more.
Since I had now an open "window" to that heat inside the smartphone
I wanted to find a way to dissipate the heat out somehow.
That's where the smartphone peltier cooler comes in.
These coolers are not just a fan that u attach to smartphone but they have a thermoelectric element inside that can get pretty cold using electricity.
So this is what I did.
I took another case and did a cut on it to add some 0.4mm copper sheet that will be touching the exposed copper on the cut on the phones back that I made and then get attached to the cooler in order to freeze it and help cool down the phone.
New batteries for the XDA Exec/JasJar are not available anymore, so I want to try to equip my old battery with new cells.
I found a suitably thin pair of 3.7v Lipo batteries as a replacement.
I managed to open the old battery and remove the old cells without incident.
The question is now: should I remove the old battery management sysmte I found inside or use the new cells with their own BMS?
The old battery has four contacts, positive, negative, one thermistor and a status indicator.
The new cells I have only have two contacts, positive and negative.
Will the phone work with the middle contacts not being connected? If I remove the BMS of the new cells and connect them to the old BMS, the cells are a different capacity. Would that matter?
You want the thermistor to monitor battery temperature. The power controller may puke all over you without that input and go into default mode. Whatever that is.
Charge state is voltage based so if the cell voltage ratings are the same as the OEM ones it should work. If you solder to the cells you better be quick and proficient at soldering with a temp controlled iron 45-85 watts (I go for 650-720F) and 63/37 flux core solder. Pre-tin any wires...
I soldered the new cells to the old BMS and it's working fine.
The soldering wasn't quick though. The solder was very reluctant to sticking to the metal strips, despite me roughing them up with sand paper and using extra flux. Any suggestions of how to make solder stick more readily?
Is the cell potentially unsafe now? Is there a much higher risk that it will spontaneasly burst into flames?
You should pre tin it. I will aggressively rub the tinned iron tip* on the surface with lots of rosin flux to get it to tin. OK to use excess solder and allow it to drip off as it carries away the contaminants. Allow to cool. On problem surfaces I'll waste a lot of solder just to get them to tin. Got to go with the flow... did production soldering for decades
Once both surfaces are pre tinned then solder. 37/63 solder works best; lower melting point, flows better.
You're probably ok as long as there's no noticable or battery bulging. Maybe do a test cycle or two with the cover loose to test it and make sure the thermistor is still reasonably accurate.
*greatly reduces tip lifespan. Normally you avoid do this. I reccomend using at least a 65 watt iron to overcome the battery's heat sinking capacity. Lower btu's mean unwanted excessive heating of the battery due to excessive heating time. Sometimes bumping up the iron temperature yields a faster solder joint but speed is of essence. Loitering with the heat more then a few seconds is to be avoided. Using the right size/shape tip can increase the heat transfer and help to minimize contact time. Sanding is normally never used to clean solder surfaces in electronics. It may make it harder. Make sure the surface doesn't have a conformal coating, if so remove it first. Brillo pad to clean tips of burnt build up; they don't cut into the tip plating on the tinned zone (destroying them).
I use tips that have a large tinned zone as smaller zones (measured from tip back) will foul much quicker as the burst rosin accumulates no matter how often you wet sponge it and well you keep them tinned.
Get as much tip surface area on the zone to be solder as possible at the get. Soldering is a skill/art that requires practice to learn.
Even aluminum solders easily. Except aluminum oxide doesn't.
Apply oil, sandpaper it, solder through the oil.
Renate said:
Even aluminum solders easily. Except aluminum oxide doesn't.
Apply oil, sandpaper it, solder through the oil.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. Cool trick if it works.
Never had to play with that much. Cheap steel lead electronic components are a pain.
Apparently using a very high tin content solder helps, but any zinc chloride if used must be completely removed. Check its melting point first...
Also immediately after soldering quench the battery with a damp cloth to cool it more rapidly.
Any kind of oil? Sunflower oil?
naujoks said:
Any kind of oil? Sunflower oil?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, I just did a check of my assertion.
I used spray canola oil from the dollar store.
Renate said:
Lol, I just did a check of my assertion.
I used spray canola oil from the dollar store.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rosin flux is the O2 sheild when soldering... and it won't permeate into the display. Just use liquid or paste rosin flux and Emery cloth, etc.