New batteries for the XDA Exec/JasJar are not available anymore, so I want to try to equip my old battery with new cells.
I found a suitably thin pair of 3.7v Lipo batteries as a replacement.
I managed to open the old battery and remove the old cells without incident.
The question is now: should I remove the old battery management sysmte I found inside or use the new cells with their own BMS?
The old battery has four contacts, positive, negative, one thermistor and a status indicator.
The new cells I have only have two contacts, positive and negative.
Will the phone work with the middle contacts not being connected? If I remove the BMS of the new cells and connect them to the old BMS, the cells are a different capacity. Would that matter?
You want the thermistor to monitor battery temperature. The power controller may puke all over you without that input and go into default mode. Whatever that is.
Charge state is voltage based so if the cell voltage ratings are the same as the OEM ones it should work. If you solder to the cells you better be quick and proficient at soldering with a temp controlled iron 45-85 watts (I go for 650-720F) and 63/37 flux core solder. Pre-tin any wires...
I soldered the new cells to the old BMS and it's working fine.
The soldering wasn't quick though. The solder was very reluctant to sticking to the metal strips, despite me roughing them up with sand paper and using extra flux. Any suggestions of how to make solder stick more readily?
Is the cell potentially unsafe now? Is there a much higher risk that it will spontaneasly burst into flames?
You should pre tin it. I will aggressively rub the tinned iron tip* on the surface with lots of rosin flux to get it to tin. OK to use excess solder and allow it to drip off as it carries away the contaminants. Allow to cool. On problem surfaces I'll waste a lot of solder just to get them to tin. Got to go with the flow... did production soldering for decades
Once both surfaces are pre tinned then solder. 37/63 solder works best; lower melting point, flows better.
You're probably ok as long as there's no noticable or battery bulging. Maybe do a test cycle or two with the cover loose to test it and make sure the thermistor is still reasonably accurate.
*greatly reduces tip lifespan. Normally you avoid do this. I reccomend using at least a 65 watt iron to overcome the battery's heat sinking capacity. Lower btu's mean unwanted excessive heating of the battery due to excessive heating time. Sometimes bumping up the iron temperature yields a faster solder joint but speed is of essence. Loitering with the heat more then a few seconds is to be avoided. Using the right size/shape tip can increase the heat transfer and help to minimize contact time. Sanding is normally never used to clean solder surfaces in electronics. It may make it harder. Make sure the surface doesn't have a conformal coating, if so remove it first. Brillo pad to clean tips of burnt build up; they don't cut into the tip plating on the tinned zone (destroying them).
I use tips that have a large tinned zone as smaller zones (measured from tip back) will foul much quicker as the burst rosin accumulates no matter how often you wet sponge it and well you keep them tinned.
Get as much tip surface area on the zone to be solder as possible at the get. Soldering is a skill/art that requires practice to learn.
Even aluminum solders easily. Except aluminum oxide doesn't.
Apply oil, sandpaper it, solder through the oil.
Renate said:
Even aluminum solders easily. Except aluminum oxide doesn't.
Apply oil, sandpaper it, solder through the oil.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. Cool trick if it works.
Never had to play with that much. Cheap steel lead electronic components are a pain.
Apparently using a very high tin content solder helps, but any zinc chloride if used must be completely removed. Check its melting point first...
Also immediately after soldering quench the battery with a damp cloth to cool it more rapidly.
Any kind of oil? Sunflower oil?
naujoks said:
Any kind of oil? Sunflower oil?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, I just did a check of my assertion.
I used spray canola oil from the dollar store.
Renate said:
Lol, I just did a check of my assertion.
I used spray canola oil from the dollar store.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rosin flux is the O2 sheild when soldering... and it won't permeate into the display. Just use liquid or paste rosin flux and Emery cloth, etc.
Related
Dear all,
I have spent some time disassembling my Nexus 5 and I found that the shielding cover that faces the die-casting has a strange "gold" tape on it (cf. picture enclosed).
I am curious, does anyone know what is it ? Is it a "high" thermal conductivity material that send the heat to the die-casting ? Or is is electrically non-conductive material that avoid leakage ?
I am a bit concerned because if it is for heat transfer, why not putting something on the CPU too ?
Thx for your feedbacks.
fredo490 said:
Dear all,
I have spent some time disassembling my Nexus 5 and I found that the shielding cover that faces the die-casting has a strange "gold" tape on it (cf. picture enclosed).
I am curious, does anyone know what is it ? Is it a "high" thermal conductivity material that send the heat to the die-casting ? Or is is electrically non-conductive material that avoid leakage ?
I am a bit concerned because if it is for heat transfer, why not putting something on the CPU too ?
Thx for your feedbacks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the service manual it descripted as "Can Assembly,Shield" and the clips of it named as "SMT Boss / Screw / Shield can frame"
The best person to ask would be @AdamOutler. Can you give any insight?
Woven copper tape is both thermally and electrically conductive. Its been a while since I looked inside mine, so I don't really remember it.
Those schematics are funny though.. Ground connected to pin 1... 25 times
AdamOutler said:
Woven copper tape is both thermally and electrically conductive. Its been a while since I looked inside mine, so I don't really remember it.
Those schematics are funny though.. Ground connected to pin 1... 25 times
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!
AdamOutler said:
Woven copper tape is both thermally and electrically conductive. Its been a while since I looked inside mine, so I don't really remember it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So it is a copper tape, thanks for the info. But why is the color so "yellow"? It doesn't actually look like copper.
There is still a thing that I don't understand: the hot spot should be the CPU, why not contacting it to the die casting instead of the shielding cover ?! To me, there is something that doesn't really make sense in this design.
Edit: interesting enough, it seems that the LG G3 uses the same concept (cf. enclosed). Die casting in the middle with this "gold" tape on the shielding cover. It seems to be a reference design for LG.
AdamOutler said:
Woven copper tape is both thermally and electrically conductive. Its been a while since I looked inside mine, so I don't really remember it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We use this stuff at work for RF gaskets for EMC. Here's an example: LeaderTech SF030PCU-CA
My guess is that it's to complete the EMI shield around the cutouts for the SoC and the couple of other parts poking through. Look at the mill-out where the PCB sits on the chassis for the SoC. By doing this, they can shave off a mm or two on the phone.
Those schematics are funny though.. Ground connected to pin 1... 25 times
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those are all the ground points on the board that aren't part of components. Like screw holes, friction ground contacts, and the shield can. Standard stuff to throw odds and ends that don't make sense elsewhere in the schematic on a single page. On some of the stuff I work on, with hundreds of 11x17 pages for a single board, it's not uncommon to have pages dedicated to holes, bypass caps, and mechanical stuff, all with no regard to pin numbers.
fredo490 said:
So it is a copper tape, thanks for the info. But why is the color so "yellow"? It doesn't actually look like copper.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably some sort of alloy, nickel/copper. See the link above. Pure copper would corrode too easily.
There is still a thing that I don't understand: the hot spot should be the CPU, why not contacting it to the die casting instead of the shielding cover ?! To me, there is something that doesn't really make sense in this design..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, a common misconception about chip packaging.
High power chips like PC CPUs need a lot of heat pulled away from them quickly, and the most efficient way is by facing the back of the die away from the package PCB so a heatsink can be slapped on top. These always are left open-top or have a heat spreader of some sort.
But for most chips, the back of the die is bonded to the package PCB (or leadframe) and bond wires used to jumper the die to the package. For chips that need to be cooled, there are dozens or hundreds of vias in the package PCB (metal plated holes through the PCB) and BGA pads on the other sides of the vias. These are called thermals, and conduct heat from the chip die to pads on the BGA. If you look at the back of a typical BGA, these show up as a separated square array of pads in the middle.
The designer of the PCB that uses this chip will design in thermals between the BGA thermal pads and the ground layer(s). The ground layers are nearly solid sheets of copper, and the thermal vias let it act as a heat spreader.
Also, the SoC in the N5 is a multi-chip package (MCP) and has a second BGA with the DRAM sitting on top of the Snapdragon BGA. The Snapdragon BGA PCB has solder balls on top that make contact with the DRAM BGA. It's all covered in rich creamy epoxy, which isn't all that good at conducting heat.
All this leads up to the top of the Snapdragon 800 package being the least useful place to try pulling away heat.
pokey9000 said:
Those are all the ground points on the board that aren't part of components. Like screw holes, friction ground contacts, and the shield can. Standard stuff to throw odds and ends that don't make sense elsewhere in the schematic on a single page. On some of the stuff I work on, with hundreds of 11x17 pages for a single board, it's not uncommon to have pages dedicated to holes, bypass caps, and mechanical stuff, all with no regard to pin numbers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Believe me, I've worked with plenty of schematics before. I just find it funny that they would label chasis ground as pin 1. Generally that's just ground. Someone obviously had too much time on their hands, considering its an EM shield being called pin 1.
AdamOutler said:
Believe me, I've worked with plenty of schematics before. I just find it funny that they would label chasis ground as pin 1. Generally that's just ground. Someone obviously had too much time on their hands, considering its an EM shield being called pin 1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it depends on the EDA tool and the whim of the library maintainer. From the little symbol creation I've done in KiCAD I think pin number visibility can be turned off for a symbol. I'm looking right now at one of our designs, and half the page is plated drill holes, each numbered pin 1. What's better, on the same page is a single high current screw terminal with 4 leads holding it to the board. It's one solid piece of metal, but the symbol shows pins 1-4.
fredo490 said:
Dear all,
I have spent some time disassembling my Nexus 5 and I found that the shielding cover that faces the die-casting has a strange "gold" tape on it (cf. picture enclosed).
I am curious, does anyone know what is it ? Is it a "high" thermal conductivity material that send the heat to the die-casting ? Or is is electrically non-conductive material that avoid leakage ?
I am a bit concerned because if it is for heat transfer, why not putting something on the CPU too ?
Thx for your feedbacks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Going slightly off topic, but could you say if there's something such as a warranty sticker when you open your Nexus to tell that it has been opened?
Thanks in advanced.
ImSoBored said:
Going slightly off topic, but could you say if there's something such as a warranty sticker when you open your Nexus to tell that it has been opened?
Thanks in advanced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't find any warranty sticker in mine. However, it is quite obvious to find if the device has been opened because of the tape holding the back cover. It is almost impossible to open and close it without "damaging" the tape.
fredo490 said:
I didn't find any warranty sticker in mine. However, it is quite obvious to find if the device has been opened because of the tape holding the back cover. It is almost impossible to open and close it without "damaging" the tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, guess I'll have to wait till my warranty is gone. Still more than one year to go... Thanks btw
My display damaged and i wanna to ask you smth guys.
How difficulty is it to change it by myself?
I watch this video "
" and i concluded its pretty easy to change it. But the only tool i dont have is the heatgun the other tools i can buy.
Tell me your opinion. Is it easy to do?
Can't tell if it's easy, but in other situations that I needed a heat gun and didn't have one, I used a hair dryer, which is way more common to have at home, or at least easier to borrow from a neighbor or something like that
Watch tear down and repair vids.
If a repair shop will let you watch them do it.
ESD, learn and understand what it is. Discreet components ie the display and mobo are very susceptible to it out of circuit.
Bare minimum protection is a bare wood surface to work on and a relative room humidity of 50% or better. A earth grounded ESD mat and wrist strap is best
Disconnect the battery as soon as possible in the disassembly process. Discharge below 40% if possible before starting.
Have all the drivers, picks, fine precision tweezers, and tools needed. Excellent light and a 2X or so optical visor be nice.
Inspect for additional damage*.
Have a set of OEM seals and now's a good time to replace the battery if it's performance has noticably dropped.
Take pictures disassembling if needed. It must be put back together exactly as it was.
Do Not over torgue screws... less is better.
Be very careful not to damage the ribbon microconnectors.
Take your time, no rush.
*any impact that can break the display or bend the frame can damage the mobo. High G loads or direct impacts can damage chipsets internally, fracture solder joints and internally damaged multilayered mobo PCB internal traces.
I did it three days ago, bc my mix 3 had contact with water.
Its kind of easy to do with a hairdryer and a small plastic tool.
The hardest part is to glue it back together.
(But I have to say my screen didn't work afterwards. The expert in the phone repair store said its maybe a problem on the motherboard)
slowmotion11 said:
I did it three days ago, bc my mix 3 had contact with water.
Its kind of easy to do with a hairdryer and a small plastic tool.
The hardest part is to glue it back together.
(But I have to say my screen didn't work afterwards. The expert in the phone repair store said its maybe a problem on the motherboard)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the battery isn't promptly removed and especially if it's not immediately powered down the current can cause corrosion and short out circuits. The power section is particularly vulnerable. Try again, inspect mobo and the ribbon connectors for signs of corrosion and moisture. Use bright light and magnification.
Is it completely dry? A good soaking with anhydrous isopropyl will help remove hidden water. Again dry completely afterwards. Getting the underside of BGA chipsets dry is imperative.
The micro connectors tend to trap moisture too.
Careful use of compressed air can be very useful but the key word here is careful. Don't stick a nozzle with 100 psi an inch or two from the mobo! Either use low pressure clean, dry air or back it up for high pressure air.
Use your best judgment... it's a bit of an art.
After you dry it as good as possible let it sit in a warm, dry room with a fan on it. Complete drying may take days without disassembly.
Thank you for the tips! I will try it like you described
The same is true with flooded cars, promptly pulling the battery can limit the damage even save the vehicle.
Be wary on flood damage vehicles for sale now, always check for water lines/marks
Most will suffer impossible electrical problems forever. Brine water always kills...
Hi there, I want to know where I can find a replacement part for the N986U model for the charging port board... I have been trying to search on eBay, Amazon, with no luck... are parts interchangeable? meaning? could I just buy a charging port board from an G986U and use it instead, would this work fine?
Thanks
You need the exact part for that variant version.
Otherwise you may find it charges fine but has no internet connection. That happen on my 10+.
That silly PCB controls more than just charging...
blackhawk said:
You need the exact part for that variant version.
Otherwise you may find it charges fine but has no internet connection. That happen on my 10+.
That silly PCB controls more than just charging...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh crap, thanks for mentioning that, I would think and hope that just buying that part would be able to fix it, but it clearly don't as you mentions, that board handles other stuff too....
any recommendations of where to look for that specific part?
Samsung Galaxy Note 20 Ultra 5G Parts
High quality Samsung Galaxy Note 20 Ultra 5G repair parts include screen replacement, charging flex, sim tray are available in our website. We ship order in 24 hours. Contact us for wholesale price.
www.deviceparts.com
Only place I can see that carries the USB-C port.
This is only the port (it can be replaced independently from the board).
rjohnstone said:
Samsung Galaxy Note 20 Ultra 5G Parts
High quality Samsung Galaxy Note 20 Ultra 5G repair parts include screen replacement, charging flex, sim tray are available in our website. We ship order in 24 hours. Contact us for wholesale price.
www.deviceparts.com
Only place I can see that carries the USB-C port.
This is only the port (it can be replaced independently from the board).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dang. but I need that special soldering machine eh?
Get the part number off the PCB. It must be the exact same number. The last letter designates the variant version if it's like the 10+'s.
Fun times...
Replace the battery too if it's getting weak. Get the OEM seals too so you can seal it properly. Use anhydrous isopropyl to help free the adhesive strips when disassembling.
0xNOP said:
dang. but I need that special soldering machine eh?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't require soldering. It has a connector on the back side. Basically snap/press it on.
Here's a proper teardown.
Samsung Galaxy Note 20 and Note 20 Ultra Teardown
We’re on a mission to tear down all the Galaxy...
www.ifixit.com
0xNOP said:
dang. but I need that special soldering machine eh?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I don't think so. It's likely just a ribbon cable/micro connector.
Watch a tear down vid or two.
blackhawk said:
Get the part number off the PCB. It must be the exact same number. The last letter designates the variant version if it's like the 10+'s.
Fun times...
Replace the battery too if it's getting weak. Get the OEM seals too so you can seal it properly. Use anhydrous isopropyl to help free the adhesive strips when disassembling.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like an awesome adventure if you tell me
alrighty then! lets do it!
0xNOP said:
Sounds like an awesome adventure if you tell me
alrighty then! lets do it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Remember to disconnect the battery first if you easily can. Take your time and don't force anything.
Follow ESD protocols if possible; at least have room humidity at 50% or higher and work on a bare wood table. No wool sweaters... cotton is best.
Out of circuit subassemblies are suspectable to ESD damage.
blackhawk said:
Remember to disconnect the battery first if you easily can. Take your time and don't force anything.
Follow ESD protocols if possible; at least have room humidity at 50% or higher and work on a bare wood table. No wool sweaters... cotton is best.
Out of circuit subassemblies are suspectable to ESD damage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gotcha , thank you so much for helping me out on this! Will give this a shot and will come back with the updates!!
0xNOP said:
Gotcha , thank you so much for helping me out on this! Will give this a shot and will come back with the updates!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am wondering how this went? We’re you successful? I have a N20U and i am starting to think it would be good to have a new battery. Wondering whether i can do this and still maintain reasonable water resistance? Any advice will be most helpful
william-johnson said:
I am wondering how this went? We’re you successful? I have a N20U and i am starting to think it would be good to have a new battery. Wondering whether i can do this and still maintain reasonable water resistance? Any advice will be most helpful
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Watch vids on it.
Have the battery level at 30% or less. Disconnect as soon as reasonibly possible during disassembly. Do Not use force more force than is needed. Slow and steady.
Take your time, don't force anything. No rush.
Use only plastic for prying and wedging.
You need a temp controlled hot plate used for things like this or a hot air gun.
You need the right sized drivers, tweezers and picks.
Use a syringe with anhydrous isopropyl alcohol to help break the seal adhesive on the rear and the battery.
You need a OEM rear cover seal or aftermarket equivalent.
Best to raise room humidity to 50%. If you have a ESD mat and wrist strap, use them. Otherwise use a cotton cloth on a bare wood surface. Wear all cotton clothing. The mobo and display are suspectable to ESD damage when out of circuit.
Be careful not to damage the connectors use a suitable pair of tweezers.
Do not over torque the screws; they will strip out ie inch/pounds not foot/pounds.
Reassemble exactly as it was.
Thanks
blackhawk said:
Watch vids on it.
Have the battery level at 30% or less. Disconnect as soon as reasonibly possible during disassembly. Do Not use force more force than is needed. Slow and steady.
Take your time, don't force anything. No rush.
Use only plastic for prying and wedging.
You need a temp controlled hot plate used for things like this or a hot air gun.
You need the right sized drivers, tweezers and picks.
Use a syringe with anhydrous isopropyl alcohol to help break the seal adhesive on the rear and the battery.
You need a OEM rear cover seal or aftermarket equivalent.
Best to raise room humidity to 50%. If you have a ESD mat and wrist strap, use them. Otherwise use a cotton cloth on a bare wood surface. Wear all cotton clothing. The mobo and display are suspectable to ESD damage when out of circuit.
Be careful not to damage the connectors use a suitable pair of tweezers.
Do not over torque the screws; they will strip out ie inch/pounds not foot/pounds.
Reassemble exactly as it was.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
william-johnson said:
Thanks
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome.
Labor rates may not be as bad as you think.
Might get it done for $50-70. It's not near as difficult as some claim it to be if you have the skillset and tools. The 20U is likely similar in construction to the N10+.
After watching my N10+'s battery replaced I learned the tricks and realized it wasn't that hard. I already have most of the tools I need. So next the one I will do myself. I've done a lot of electronic assembly work and have replaced 2 Canon cameras LCD displays including a pro cam... successfully.
The parts you don't want to damage; the mobo, the display (battery sits on top of it, attached with double sided adhesive tape), the camera module as these are expensive parts.
The rear cover is cheap to replace; avoid excessive bending or it will shatter. The ribbon cables and such are cheap but harder perhaps to find.
Hi,
It would be really helpful if someone can try this.
When keeping the phone on charging and you touch the phone to the ear (exactly at the point where the front camera is), it gives a micro shock to the ear.
If I touch it with my hand there is nothing but it only happens when you touch it to the ear. Voltage might be really really small to feel through the hand.
I have tried using 2 third-party chargers.
Can anyone else try this and reply.
Never happened to me. No instances of static electricity with phone, ever
Sounds like you have a grounding problem, which can happen if you use substandard 3rd party equipment.
Hemilpatel3296 said:
Hi,
It would be really helpful if someone can try this.
When keeping the phone on charging and you touch the phone to the ear (exactly at the point where the front camera is), it gives a micro shock to the ear.
If I touch it with my hand there is nothing but it only happens when you touch it to the ear. Voltage might be really really small to feel through the hand.
I have tried using 2 third-party chargers.
Can anyone else try this and reply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your powerlines may not be grounded properly. I assume the end is a 2 Pin Plug instead of a 3 Pin?
If not the charger, Maybe the wallplug is 2 Pin.
Hemilpatel3296 said:
Hi,
It would be really helpful if someone can try this.
When keeping the phone on charging and you touch the phone to the ear (exactly at the point where the front camera is), it gives a micro shock to the ear.
If I touch it with my hand there is nothing but it only happens when you touch it to the ear. Voltage might be really really small to feel through the hand.
I have tried using 2 third-party chargers.
Can anyone else try this and reply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're hot!
Static electricity, ESD. This can kill devices especially out of circuit assemblies like the mobo, sim cards, and SD cards (slightly ESD harden). The C port of the phone is fairly well harden to ESD, but the less exposure the better.
Damage can be cumulative if it exceeds a certain energy value.
Before touching the phone without moving much, touch an earth ground. This will discharged YOU: it's not the phone! The phone is merely acting as a ground pathway to the neutral pole of the AC power grid via the brick*. The neutral pole is a floating ground rather than a direct earth ground, but close enough! It's not the desired way to channel off a static charge though.
Raising the room humidity to 40% or higher will help reduce ESD and dissipate it faster.
Wear cotton; wool and synthetic fibers are great sources of static electricity. As is walking on a rug or carpet. Your skin conducts the static charge...
*the brick isn't earth grounded; it's double insulated 2 poles (hot/neutral) vs a 3 pole (hot/neutral/earth ground) plug/device. The neutral line has about 1-2 ohms more resistance to earth ground typically than the earth ground on the socket.
Earth ground, center screw on the outlet, cold water pipe if all copper, steam heat radiator or any conductor going deep into the ground.
This can happen if the neutral and ground are NOT bonded at the service entrance (fuse box).
cpufrost said:
This can happen if the neutral and ground are NOT bonded at the service entrance (fuse box).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There has to be current flow to feel electricity.
A ground fault isn't the source or cause of this static current flow.
Improper bond of neutral and ground bus bars at service entrance is not a ground fault.
The current flow is between the device and the person holding it. My MBP used to do this too, a slight buzz/tingle felt if touched lightly. The current is very tiny, just above the threshold of being able to be felt. A check of the panel found a missing bonding screw. Once this was fixed the tingling sensation went away.
This may or may not be what the OP is describing. Not likely to be static at all, as that is a quick discharge.
change your cloth from syntetic to cotton (or reverse). while you sitting in your gaming chair, your cloth charging static ESD.
result: change your cloth or buy ant-static cloth spray at Amazon
cpufrost said:
Improper bond of neutral and ground bus bars at service entrance is not a ground fault.
The current flow is between the device and the person holding it. My MBP used to do this too, a slight buzz/tingle felt if touched lightly. The current is very tiny, just above the threshold of being able to be felt. A check of the panel found a missing bonding screw. Once this was fixed the tingling sensation went away.
This may or may not be what the OP is describing. Not likely to be static at all, as that is a quick discharge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Technically it is but whatever.
MBP?
The brick is double insulated, there's not enough output voltage to "feel" it like this.
The brick's output should be fully isolated from its AC input and its own high voltage fast switching circuit*.
* other than ESD this is the only other source of current you be able to feel. If the shock is not continuous, it's a static charge build up. I don't think the HV fast switching primary (max 700 volts but likely much less) could induce a static charge here, but who knows?
blackhawk said:
Technically it is but whatever.
MBP?
The brick is double insulated, there's not enough output voltage to "feel" it like this.
The brick's output should be fully isolated from its AC input and its own high voltage fast switching circuit*.
* other than ESD this is the only other source of current you be able to feel. If the shock is not continuous, it's a static charge build up. I don't think the HV fast switching primary (max 700 volts but likely much less) could induce a static charge here, but who knows?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MBP = Macbook Pro.
The issue is commonplace due to the power bricks not having a chassis ground AND the plugs are not polarized (applies to US only). The neutral should not have potential from ground hence the single point bonding at the service entrance. Then there's the issue of poorly made "bargain priced" charger/bricks found everywhere that are downright dangerous!
Static will build up on any conductor that's not earthed. A 200 foot overhead run that's isolated from ground can measure 50kV potential on a clear sunny day from the breeze! The static has enough jolt to hit you hard too, but not lethal unless you jump out of the bucket and fall to the ground! ;-)
That said, in a dry climate with humidity below 30% indoors, I've felt shocks when touching many things including phones plugged into to their chargers. It's a small pop and slight discomfort due to high voltage potential. It's enough to do permanent damage to sensitive parts hence the reason why techs always touch the chassis with their left hand before touching a part inside with their right, etc.
cpufrost said:
MBP = Macbook Pro.
The issue is commonplace due to the power bricks not having a chassis ground AND the plugs are not polarized (applies to US only). The neutral should not have potential from ground hence the single point bonding at the service entrance. Then there's the issue of poorly made "bargain priced" charger/bricks found everywhere that are downright dangerous!
Static will build up on any conductor that's not earthed. A 200 foot overhead run that's isolated from ground can measure 50kV potential on a clear sunny day from the breeze! The static has enough jolt to hit you hard too, but not lethal unless you jump out of the bucket and fall to the ground! ;-)
That said, in a dry climate with humidity below 30% indoors, I've felt shocks when touching many things including phones plugged into to their chargers. It's a small pop and slight discomfort due to high voltage potential. It's enough to do permanent damage to sensitive parts hence the reason why techs always touch the chassis with their left hand before touching a part inside with their right, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know nothing Mac as you can tell, thank you for the definition.
Neutral is very close to ground potential usually about 1-2 ohms difference. That resistance is that of the house wiring itself.
This applies to most US domestic wiring. It's rather interesting the variants that exist like for milking barns to prevent udder tingle. That's not static though... lol, smartphone tingle
Seriously, kidding about the latter.
However... I suppose the hv fast switching inverter could capacitive couple to the brick's output in some circumstances and and that stray current transferred to the phone's aluminum frame (if it has one). The OP might want to try using another brick as the one they're using might have an internal fault ie a failed bypass capacitor.
Make sure you don't use it when filling car with petrol.
Hello to all,
I use my phone in a booklet phone case.
When I use the phone inside my car with Android Auto wireless I noticed that it gets really hot. I checked the battery temperature.
Especially as it is summer now, the ambient temperatures are higher than a couple of months ago.
I now have on a regular base 37-38°C battery temperature (read by Accubattery app).
At 39°+ I noticed that the phone slows down (in order to prevent heat damage).
Therefore I wonder if a head transfer tape could improve heat dissipation. I'm thinking of a tape like on GPUs in computer hardware.
I found something on Aliexpress:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003391217799.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.2.3b6c70d4Do2bNy&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.274681.0&scm_id=1007.13339.274681.0&scm-url=1007.13339.274681.0&pvid=45b86060-38ea-4e8a-a9ce-51254861be9a&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.13339.274681.0%2Cpvid%3A45b86060-38ea-4e8a-a9ce-51254861be9a%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238114%231999&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000025672972360%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%223339%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21CHF%21%211.33%21%21%21%21%21%402101d1ad16546778477633194e3ff4%2112000025672972360%21rec&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
My idea is to put the tape between the back cover and phone case to improve heat transfer.
Does anyone have experience with this?
Do you think that this could lead to lower battery temperatures?
Thank you very much.
SOFO888 said:
Hello to all,
I use my phone in a booklet phone case.
When I use the phone inside my car with Android Auto wireless I noticed that it gets really hot. I checked the battery temperature.
Especially as it is summer now, the ambient temperatures are higher than a couple of months ago.
I now have on a regular base 37-38°C battery temperature (read by Accubattery app).
At 39°+ I noticed that the phone slows down (in order to prevent heat damage).
Therefore I wonder if a head transfer tape could improve heat dissipation. I'm thinking of a tape like on GPUs in computer hardware.
I found something on Aliexpress:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003391217799.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.2.3b6c70d4Do2bNy&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.274681.0&scm_id=1007.13339.274681.0&scm-url=1007.13339.274681.0&pvid=45b86060-38ea-4e8a-a9ce-51254861be9a&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.13339.274681.0%2Cpvid%3A45b86060-38ea-4e8a-a9ce-51254861be9a%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238114%231999&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000025672972360%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%223339%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21CHF%21%211.33%21%21%21%21%21%402101d1ad16546778477633194e3ff4%2112000025672972360%21rec&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
My idea is to put the tape between the back cover and phone case to improve heat transfer.
Does anyone have experience with this?
Do you think that this could lead to lower battery temperatures?
Thank you very much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It depends on the material that your case is made of. Using some kind of thermal absorbing material between the phone and the case might extract the heat from the device but if your case doesn't dissipate the heat absorbed by the thermal material, the heat will just be trapped between the back cover and your case, which isnt really an improvement.
Try a different case or no case.
The phone stays in a silicone case which is glued to the booklet made of PU.
PU does not have a good thermal conductivity. Perhaps I could add some holes so that the heat dissipation tape gets ambient air.
SOFO888 said:
The phone stays in a silicone case which is glued to the booklet made of PU.
PU does not have a good thermal conductivity. Perhaps I could add some holes so that the heat dissipation tape gets ambient air.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe a small portable cooling pad like used with small laptops would help or a small 12v fan that plugs into a 12v outlet in your car.
I already thought about a fan.
I ordered an ESR wireless charger with Cryoboost (cooling fan) to check if charging would be possible with fan.