Hi,
It would be really helpful if someone can try this.
When keeping the phone on charging and you touch the phone to the ear (exactly at the point where the front camera is), it gives a micro shock to the ear.
If I touch it with my hand there is nothing but it only happens when you touch it to the ear. Voltage might be really really small to feel through the hand.
I have tried using 2 third-party chargers.
Can anyone else try this and reply.
Never happened to me. No instances of static electricity with phone, ever
Sounds like you have a grounding problem, which can happen if you use substandard 3rd party equipment.
Hemilpatel3296 said:
Hi,
It would be really helpful if someone can try this.
When keeping the phone on charging and you touch the phone to the ear (exactly at the point where the front camera is), it gives a micro shock to the ear.
If I touch it with my hand there is nothing but it only happens when you touch it to the ear. Voltage might be really really small to feel through the hand.
I have tried using 2 third-party chargers.
Can anyone else try this and reply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your powerlines may not be grounded properly. I assume the end is a 2 Pin Plug instead of a 3 Pin?
If not the charger, Maybe the wallplug is 2 Pin.
Hemilpatel3296 said:
Hi,
It would be really helpful if someone can try this.
When keeping the phone on charging and you touch the phone to the ear (exactly at the point where the front camera is), it gives a micro shock to the ear.
If I touch it with my hand there is nothing but it only happens when you touch it to the ear. Voltage might be really really small to feel through the hand.
I have tried using 2 third-party chargers.
Can anyone else try this and reply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're hot!
Static electricity, ESD. This can kill devices especially out of circuit assemblies like the mobo, sim cards, and SD cards (slightly ESD harden). The C port of the phone is fairly well harden to ESD, but the less exposure the better.
Damage can be cumulative if it exceeds a certain energy value.
Before touching the phone without moving much, touch an earth ground. This will discharged YOU: it's not the phone! The phone is merely acting as a ground pathway to the neutral pole of the AC power grid via the brick*. The neutral pole is a floating ground rather than a direct earth ground, but close enough! It's not the desired way to channel off a static charge though.
Raising the room humidity to 40% or higher will help reduce ESD and dissipate it faster.
Wear cotton; wool and synthetic fibers are great sources of static electricity. As is walking on a rug or carpet. Your skin conducts the static charge...
*the brick isn't earth grounded; it's double insulated 2 poles (hot/neutral) vs a 3 pole (hot/neutral/earth ground) plug/device. The neutral line has about 1-2 ohms more resistance to earth ground typically than the earth ground on the socket.
Earth ground, center screw on the outlet, cold water pipe if all copper, steam heat radiator or any conductor going deep into the ground.
This can happen if the neutral and ground are NOT bonded at the service entrance (fuse box).
cpufrost said:
This can happen if the neutral and ground are NOT bonded at the service entrance (fuse box).
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Click to collapse
There has to be current flow to feel electricity.
A ground fault isn't the source or cause of this static current flow.
Improper bond of neutral and ground bus bars at service entrance is not a ground fault.
The current flow is between the device and the person holding it. My MBP used to do this too, a slight buzz/tingle felt if touched lightly. The current is very tiny, just above the threshold of being able to be felt. A check of the panel found a missing bonding screw. Once this was fixed the tingling sensation went away.
This may or may not be what the OP is describing. Not likely to be static at all, as that is a quick discharge.
change your cloth from syntetic to cotton (or reverse). while you sitting in your gaming chair, your cloth charging static ESD.
result: change your cloth or buy ant-static cloth spray at Amazon
cpufrost said:
Improper bond of neutral and ground bus bars at service entrance is not a ground fault.
The current flow is between the device and the person holding it. My MBP used to do this too, a slight buzz/tingle felt if touched lightly. The current is very tiny, just above the threshold of being able to be felt. A check of the panel found a missing bonding screw. Once this was fixed the tingling sensation went away.
This may or may not be what the OP is describing. Not likely to be static at all, as that is a quick discharge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Technically it is but whatever.
MBP?
The brick is double insulated, there's not enough output voltage to "feel" it like this.
The brick's output should be fully isolated from its AC input and its own high voltage fast switching circuit*.
* other than ESD this is the only other source of current you be able to feel. If the shock is not continuous, it's a static charge build up. I don't think the HV fast switching primary (max 700 volts but likely much less) could induce a static charge here, but who knows?
blackhawk said:
Technically it is but whatever.
MBP?
The brick is double insulated, there's not enough output voltage to "feel" it like this.
The brick's output should be fully isolated from its AC input and its own high voltage fast switching circuit*.
* other than ESD this is the only other source of current you be able to feel. If the shock is not continuous, it's a static charge build up. I don't think the HV fast switching primary (max 700 volts but likely much less) could induce a static charge here, but who knows?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MBP = Macbook Pro.
The issue is commonplace due to the power bricks not having a chassis ground AND the plugs are not polarized (applies to US only). The neutral should not have potential from ground hence the single point bonding at the service entrance. Then there's the issue of poorly made "bargain priced" charger/bricks found everywhere that are downright dangerous!
Static will build up on any conductor that's not earthed. A 200 foot overhead run that's isolated from ground can measure 50kV potential on a clear sunny day from the breeze! The static has enough jolt to hit you hard too, but not lethal unless you jump out of the bucket and fall to the ground! ;-)
That said, in a dry climate with humidity below 30% indoors, I've felt shocks when touching many things including phones plugged into to their chargers. It's a small pop and slight discomfort due to high voltage potential. It's enough to do permanent damage to sensitive parts hence the reason why techs always touch the chassis with their left hand before touching a part inside with their right, etc.
cpufrost said:
MBP = Macbook Pro.
The issue is commonplace due to the power bricks not having a chassis ground AND the plugs are not polarized (applies to US only). The neutral should not have potential from ground hence the single point bonding at the service entrance. Then there's the issue of poorly made "bargain priced" charger/bricks found everywhere that are downright dangerous!
Static will build up on any conductor that's not earthed. A 200 foot overhead run that's isolated from ground can measure 50kV potential on a clear sunny day from the breeze! The static has enough jolt to hit you hard too, but not lethal unless you jump out of the bucket and fall to the ground! ;-)
That said, in a dry climate with humidity below 30% indoors, I've felt shocks when touching many things including phones plugged into to their chargers. It's a small pop and slight discomfort due to high voltage potential. It's enough to do permanent damage to sensitive parts hence the reason why techs always touch the chassis with their left hand before touching a part inside with their right, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know nothing Mac as you can tell, thank you for the definition.
Neutral is very close to ground potential usually about 1-2 ohms difference. That resistance is that of the house wiring itself.
This applies to most US domestic wiring. It's rather interesting the variants that exist like for milking barns to prevent udder tingle. That's not static though... lol, smartphone tingle
Seriously, kidding about the latter.
However... I suppose the hv fast switching inverter could capacitive couple to the brick's output in some circumstances and and that stray current transferred to the phone's aluminum frame (if it has one). The OP might want to try using another brick as the one they're using might have an internal fault ie a failed bypass capacitor.
Make sure you don't use it when filling car with petrol.
Related
Has anyone else had issues with their touch pro shocking their hands when using it while charging?
Every once in a while the phone will suddenly start emitting a very strong 'tingle'. Kind of feels like a dog shock collar (don't pretend you haven't tried that...). It has startled me enough to drop it a few times. Luckily I don't tend to have it too far from the ground while it is plugged in.
Anyone else encounter this issue?
no, you should probably get a replacement unit, and never use a pun again
Yeah, that sounds like a serious problem. I'd take it back right away and/or contact htc support. I wouldn't use the charger in the interim. You don't want to burn down the house. Knock on wood...
New undocumented security feature?
Take my phone.. I dare you.
No, really, you should exchange that phone
I've experience quite a bit of static shock with the phone. On the HTC Fuze the top half is encircled by this metal/chrome bezel. With dry winter air and walking around on carpet, I've zapped myself/phone a few times. Hopefully, there's no damage to any of the electronic components.
Are u sure its not in vibration mode? That produces a "tingle" as well.
vexingv said:
I've experience quite a bit of static shock with the phone. On the HTC Fuze the top half is encircled by this metal/chrome bezel. With dry winter air and walking around on carpet, I've zapped myself/phone a few times. Hopefully, there's no damage to any of the electronic components.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here. I notice it more than with my last phone but it's not an alarmingly bad shock, and definitely no constant tingle. The shock is coming from me to the phone and not the other way around.
I've heard that magnetic fields can influence the semiconductors' operations and electricity as a whole. What do you think, can cases with magnetic closures harm phones?
No, there is negligible if any effect on phones. If that was the case, why would RIM provide magnetic cases for their own devices? There is no magnetic media and all of the solid state components will be unharmed by normal magnetism.
They will not harm the phone, but as some of them contain quite powerful magnets, I would keep the phone well away from your credit cards when it's in its case. That's if you have to rely on the magnetic strip at ATM machines or point of sale terminals.
Magnetic fields does not affect the operation of your device. (Always referred to normal magnets not super strong ones capable to mechanically damage the components). At the other hand static electricity may affect the flash memory ("rom") of your device. I had this problem several years ago with my m515 Palm. I was storing it in my car, under the driver seat. I was lucky it hasn't permanently damaged.
About the static electricity - can a case with microfiber inner lining damage the phone, because the microfiber acumulates static electricity?
And watch out for gremlins and leprechauns and the boogey-man. Seriously, you are a little too paranoid. Phones are just like any other electronic device. Handle with care and keep away from liquids and don't drop it.
The probability that you will accumulate static electricity, and that you will discharge it into the phone, and that it will pass through the battery cover, jump the lining to the metal pieces, and then jump over the plastic inner shell to the internal electronics is EXTREMELY small. Besides if you have a cloth case it won't build up static electricity anyway unless you continuously pull it in and out of the case (like 20+ times per minute).
The potential for damage comes from handled exposed electronic parts while being ungrounded, and the only way you should experience that is if you open up the housing of your phone, which for you I would say you should not attempt since it is only for more experienced users.
i've never had any issues with magnetic cases. in fact, thats the only thing i use.
When the charger is pluged in, the touch screen is way more sensitive when the tablet is
laying down. I wonder how that is?? Pinch to zoom works so much better.
I think it has to do with grounding. When the tab is plugged in it has the most effective grounding path. The second best would be when you are holding it with two hands, and the worst would be when the tablet is laying on a non conductive surface. I think capasetive screens process inputs faster when there is a solid ground for the circuit to reference.
thebrain73 said:
I think it has to do with grounding. When the tab is plugged in it has the most effective grounding path. The second best would be when you are holding it with two hands, and the worst would be when the tablet is laying on a non conductive surface. I think capasetive screens process inputs faster when there is a solid ground for the circuit to reference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's somthing.
Thanks.
My display damaged and i wanna to ask you smth guys.
How difficulty is it to change it by myself?
I watch this video "
" and i concluded its pretty easy to change it. But the only tool i dont have is the heatgun the other tools i can buy.
Tell me your opinion. Is it easy to do?
Can't tell if it's easy, but in other situations that I needed a heat gun and didn't have one, I used a hair dryer, which is way more common to have at home, or at least easier to borrow from a neighbor or something like that
Watch tear down and repair vids.
If a repair shop will let you watch them do it.
ESD, learn and understand what it is. Discreet components ie the display and mobo are very susceptible to it out of circuit.
Bare minimum protection is a bare wood surface to work on and a relative room humidity of 50% or better. A earth grounded ESD mat and wrist strap is best
Disconnect the battery as soon as possible in the disassembly process. Discharge below 40% if possible before starting.
Have all the drivers, picks, fine precision tweezers, and tools needed. Excellent light and a 2X or so optical visor be nice.
Inspect for additional damage*.
Have a set of OEM seals and now's a good time to replace the battery if it's performance has noticably dropped.
Take pictures disassembling if needed. It must be put back together exactly as it was.
Do Not over torgue screws... less is better.
Be very careful not to damage the ribbon microconnectors.
Take your time, no rush.
*any impact that can break the display or bend the frame can damage the mobo. High G loads or direct impacts can damage chipsets internally, fracture solder joints and internally damaged multilayered mobo PCB internal traces.
I did it three days ago, bc my mix 3 had contact with water.
Its kind of easy to do with a hairdryer and a small plastic tool.
The hardest part is to glue it back together.
(But I have to say my screen didn't work afterwards. The expert in the phone repair store said its maybe a problem on the motherboard)
slowmotion11 said:
I did it three days ago, bc my mix 3 had contact with water.
Its kind of easy to do with a hairdryer and a small plastic tool.
The hardest part is to glue it back together.
(But I have to say my screen didn't work afterwards. The expert in the phone repair store said its maybe a problem on the motherboard)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the battery isn't promptly removed and especially if it's not immediately powered down the current can cause corrosion and short out circuits. The power section is particularly vulnerable. Try again, inspect mobo and the ribbon connectors for signs of corrosion and moisture. Use bright light and magnification.
Is it completely dry? A good soaking with anhydrous isopropyl will help remove hidden water. Again dry completely afterwards. Getting the underside of BGA chipsets dry is imperative.
The micro connectors tend to trap moisture too.
Careful use of compressed air can be very useful but the key word here is careful. Don't stick a nozzle with 100 psi an inch or two from the mobo! Either use low pressure clean, dry air or back it up for high pressure air.
Use your best judgment... it's a bit of an art.
After you dry it as good as possible let it sit in a warm, dry room with a fan on it. Complete drying may take days without disassembly.
Thank you for the tips! I will try it like you described
The same is true with flooded cars, promptly pulling the battery can limit the damage even save the vehicle.
Be wary on flood damage vehicles for sale now, always check for water lines/marks
Most will suffer impossible electrical problems forever. Brine water always kills...
New batteries for the XDA Exec/JasJar are not available anymore, so I want to try to equip my old battery with new cells.
I found a suitably thin pair of 3.7v Lipo batteries as a replacement.
I managed to open the old battery and remove the old cells without incident.
The question is now: should I remove the old battery management sysmte I found inside or use the new cells with their own BMS?
The old battery has four contacts, positive, negative, one thermistor and a status indicator.
The new cells I have only have two contacts, positive and negative.
Will the phone work with the middle contacts not being connected? If I remove the BMS of the new cells and connect them to the old BMS, the cells are a different capacity. Would that matter?
You want the thermistor to monitor battery temperature. The power controller may puke all over you without that input and go into default mode. Whatever that is.
Charge state is voltage based so if the cell voltage ratings are the same as the OEM ones it should work. If you solder to the cells you better be quick and proficient at soldering with a temp controlled iron 45-85 watts (I go for 650-720F) and 63/37 flux core solder. Pre-tin any wires...
I soldered the new cells to the old BMS and it's working fine.
The soldering wasn't quick though. The solder was very reluctant to sticking to the metal strips, despite me roughing them up with sand paper and using extra flux. Any suggestions of how to make solder stick more readily?
Is the cell potentially unsafe now? Is there a much higher risk that it will spontaneasly burst into flames?
You should pre tin it. I will aggressively rub the tinned iron tip* on the surface with lots of rosin flux to get it to tin. OK to use excess solder and allow it to drip off as it carries away the contaminants. Allow to cool. On problem surfaces I'll waste a lot of solder just to get them to tin. Got to go with the flow... did production soldering for decades
Once both surfaces are pre tinned then solder. 37/63 solder works best; lower melting point, flows better.
You're probably ok as long as there's no noticable or battery bulging. Maybe do a test cycle or two with the cover loose to test it and make sure the thermistor is still reasonably accurate.
*greatly reduces tip lifespan. Normally you avoid do this. I reccomend using at least a 65 watt iron to overcome the battery's heat sinking capacity. Lower btu's mean unwanted excessive heating of the battery due to excessive heating time. Sometimes bumping up the iron temperature yields a faster solder joint but speed is of essence. Loitering with the heat more then a few seconds is to be avoided. Using the right size/shape tip can increase the heat transfer and help to minimize contact time. Sanding is normally never used to clean solder surfaces in electronics. It may make it harder. Make sure the surface doesn't have a conformal coating, if so remove it first. Brillo pad to clean tips of burnt build up; they don't cut into the tip plating on the tinned zone (destroying them).
I use tips that have a large tinned zone as smaller zones (measured from tip back) will foul much quicker as the burst rosin accumulates no matter how often you wet sponge it and well you keep them tinned.
Get as much tip surface area on the zone to be solder as possible at the get. Soldering is a skill/art that requires practice to learn.
Even aluminum solders easily. Except aluminum oxide doesn't.
Apply oil, sandpaper it, solder through the oil.
Renate said:
Even aluminum solders easily. Except aluminum oxide doesn't.
Apply oil, sandpaper it, solder through the oil.
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Click to collapse
Interesting. Cool trick if it works.
Never had to play with that much. Cheap steel lead electronic components are a pain.
Apparently using a very high tin content solder helps, but any zinc chloride if used must be completely removed. Check its melting point first...
Also immediately after soldering quench the battery with a damp cloth to cool it more rapidly.
Any kind of oil? Sunflower oil?
naujoks said:
Any kind of oil? Sunflower oil?
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Click to collapse
Lol, I just did a check of my assertion.
I used spray canola oil from the dollar store.
Renate said:
Lol, I just did a check of my assertion.
I used spray canola oil from the dollar store.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rosin flux is the O2 sheild when soldering... and it won't permeate into the display. Just use liquid or paste rosin flux and Emery cloth, etc.