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Help! - does anyone know what causes the display to "slant" on a Vox?
I just put a new case on my wifes Vox, and now the image shown on the display is slanting about 30 degrees anti-clockwise - a bit like the horizontal hold is off, for those that remember CRT TVs. Just occasionally, it shows correctly for a second when the display first turns on, but then goes back to slanting. Other than the slant, the display looks perfectly OK. The exact same slat shows in horizontal mode with the keyboard open.
I've tried a cold boot just in case, but it's made no difference, and I've also reassembled the case again a couple of times which has also made no difference. When I did the swap, I didn't need to disconnect the screen assembly, but did disconnect the keyboard and number pad. I don't think these connections are bad, but if they are they were the same bad each time I reassembled.
Help! Her who must be obeyed is NOT going to be happy!
Weird - can you supply a photo?
One of the connectors is surely not fitting correctly. The big flat one has to "snap" in - you can hear it if you do it right. The one form the display itself has to be inserted rather deep in the slot - this can only be done if the "lock" flap has been released. You must have done this when you removed the old display.
What did you actually disassemble when swapping cases? Is it possible that you bent a flex-cable too much and have torn it apart? Maybe as well that the connector is no more straight in the slot.
tobbbie said:
Weird - can you supply a photo?
One of the connectors is surely not fitting correctly. The big flat one has to "snap" in - you can hear it if you do it right. The one form the display itself has to be inserted rather deep in the slot - this can only be done if the "lock" flap has been released. You must have done this when you removed the old display.
What did you actually disassemble when swapping cases? Is it possible that you bent a flex-cable too much and have torn it apart? Maybe as well that the connector is no more straight in the slot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Tobbbie,
I did find that by twisting the case just so I could get the display to pop back to normal for a second or two, so I think it must be a bad connection or some dirt in one. I'll have another go at it tonight and see if I can get any further with the help of some compressed air and maybe some electric connector cleaner..
I never actually removed the cable from the display itself - I managed to get the screen and attached circuit boards transferred to the new case whilst still attached to each other.
Cheers,
G
I've noticed that when I want to dock my TF that it takes a fair amount of pressure until the unit is properly locked and seated. I was wondering if this pressure could be causing any kind of damage... but more specifically with light bleed. My last TF was dropped and sustained a mild/moderate hit on the frame which clearly caused more/worse light bleed.
So I guess my question is... does anyone know a way to properly dock the TF with little or no pressure? I'm also thinking my dock might be defective... it's a B40 serial number and the locking mechanism does seem kind of cheap/shotty...
i was wondering if sliding it around to get it docked is going to eventually scratch up the tablet...i can't always get it docked in one try....would have been nicer to have a rubber type thin seal around the dock/tablet instead of metal on metal.
Hrm, my dock has a thin layer of velvety material on the inside of the docking mechanism so it's not metal on metal/glass for me...
It's pretty inevitable that the dock will eventually leave some kind of marks. I notice on the back of my tablet, if I hold it at just the right angle to the light, I can see a small curved mark appearing where it rubs against the dock as I remove the tablet.
I'm curious -- does anybody else's dock release switch stay in the "unlocked" position with the tablet removed? Mine does, but I am pretty sure when I initially got the tablet, it would spring back to the "locked" position once the tablet was removed...
jmccarter said:
Hrm, my dock has a thin layer of velvety material on the inside of the docking mechanism so it's not metal on metal/glass for me...
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Click to collapse
Mine has that too (they all do), but it is still starting to leave a mark on the rear of the tablet case.
i'd rather have the velvity stuff outside the docking area...on the metal casing.
knoxploration said:
I'm curious -- does anybody else's dock release switch stay in the "unlocked" position with the tablet removed? Mine does, but I am pretty sure when I initially got the tablet, it would spring back to the "locked" position once the tablet was removed...
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Click to collapse
When undocked, my lock seems to go to what ever position it feels like. Like I said in my first post, I think the design is pretty poor (on my B40...but perhaps on all).
GetLaid said:
When undocked, my lock seems to go to what ever position it feels like. Like I said in my first post, I think the design is pretty poor (on my B40...but perhaps on all).
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Click to collapse
Great, not just me then. Thanks for the confirmation...
jmccarter said:
Hrm, my dock has a thin layer of velvety material on the inside of the docking mechanism so it's not metal on metal/glass for me...
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Click to collapse
Same here.
Also, my tablet has a thin piece of clear plastic on the bottom where it fits into the dock. At first I thought this was part of the packaging and was going to remove it. But then I noticed there was hole for the docking port and decided to leave it in place.
jerrykur said:
Same here.
Also, my tablet has a thin piece of clear plastic on the bottom where it fits into the dock. At first I thought this was part of the packaging and was going to remove it. But then I noticed there was hole for the docking port and decided to leave it in place.
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Click to collapse
Oh man... I removed my piece...
I'm sad to say I finally destroyed my TF300. It fell from about 6 feet onto tile. The screen is cracked in quite a few places, but luckily it didn't spiderweb. The touchscreen kind of works, I say kind of, because it's touching in random places all over the screen. So my question is, can I possibly unplug the digitizer only since the LCD works fine? That way I can use the keyboard dock's mouse or a USB mouse and still use the device. Thanks in advance for any help.
this happened to me as well. On youtube there are many tutorials of how to replace the screen..
they will show you how to take the back casing off
then you can just unplug the digitizer cable (its the yellow cable with two connections on the bottom right of the back of the tablet) this will disable the touch but if you go that far you might as well replace the whole screen you can get online for $50.
and make sure to take note of the digitizer revision number as asus makes 4 different types and only the one will work on your tablet when you want to fix it...its a number on the digitizer cable either g01 g02 g03 or one other i cant remember off the top of my head
schkeet said:
this happened to me as well. On youtube there are many tutorials of how to replace the screen..
they will show you how to take the back casing off
then you can just unplug the digitizer cable (its the yellow cable with two connections on the bottom right of the back of the tablet) this will disable the touch but if you go that far you might as well replace the whole screen you can get online for $50.
and make sure to take note of the digitizer revision number as asus makes 4 different types and only the one will work on your tablet when you want to fix it...its a number on the digitizer cable either g01 g02 g03 or one other i cant remember off the top of my head
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I meant that I didn't want to fix the display, just disable the digitizer so that I can continue to use the device via HDMI. If I unplug the digitizer, will the LCD still work?
After unplugging the ribbon cable for the digitizer, most of the random touches have stopped. But now, even using the built in touchpad or a USB mouse, touches do not hold and can cause random presses to occur in various parts of the screen. Any ideas?
I'm not sure but could be a different problem? I've done the same to mine and my keyboard dock works just fine
savergn said:
After unplugging the ribbon cable for the digitizer, most of the random touches have stopped. But now, even using the built in touchpad or a USB mouse, touches do not hold and can cause random presses to occur in various parts of the screen. Any ideas?
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Click to collapse
Spontaneous presses? This is at random, some tabs have it, others don't. That ain't from the keyboard; rather from either the digitizer, though detached it might be, or the TS board, or both in close proximity with one another. I've experienced this and still have no idea why. I've had perfectly good dig and TS Board do it when the board is left dangling and not screwed down to the magnesium frame. The only way to stop is to replace the digitizer. Or you can try to yank the dig's ribbons off the glass, as I've noticed ghost touches produced by a dig with partially torn ribbons (on the glass side) that were still connected to the PCB. The dig is not repairable anyways. You're risking nothing.
graphdarnell said:
Spontaneous presses? This is at random, some tabs have it, others don't. That ain't from the keyboard; rather from either the digitizer, though detached it might be, or the TS board, or both in close proximity with one another. I've experienced this and still have no idea why. I've had perfectly good dig and TS Board do it when the board is left dangling and not screwed down to the magnesium frame. The only way to stop is to replace the digitizer. Or you can try to yank the dig's ribbons off the glass, as I've noticed ghost touches produced by a dig with partially torn ribbons (on the glass side) that were still connected to the PCB. The dig is not repairable anyways. You're risking nothing.
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Click to collapse
Do you possibly have any photos or tutorials that might be able to help me out so I don't cause anymore damage to the tablet?
savergn said:
Do you possibly have any photos or tutorials that might be able to help me out so I don't cause anymore damage to the tablet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure where to start. If you've taken apart the thing before, i'd be easier. Remove the back. Turn off the service switch (Important). Otherwise, you might burn a coil on the motherboard. If you don't know what that is, look at the top of the motherboard. To the left of the power switch (thin amber ribbon for power on top side and volume on right side), there's a switch mounted on the other side but accessible from the top of the board. You'll see the printing "off" and "on" on this side. Slide it to "off" position. (Thumb attached shows location of switch at top, and where the ribbons should be cut off at bottom).
The ribbon part that's taped to the glass is hidden under the lcd. If you don't care, just snip it off where it meets the lcd edge. There's really no need to remove the lcd if you're not intent on replacing the digitizer. Again, since I am not certain what caused the ghost touches in your cases, it's possible they will continue. Hopefully, they won't. But at this point, the digitizer serves no function other than protecting the lcd surface on the outside. No need to save the ribbons.
To tell you the truth, I've tried using the tab with a dock and no touchscreen. You can live with it, but it's enormous inconvenience any way you use the device, from recoveries to roms to any app within. It's just not designed to be user-friendly that way. I eventually gave up and replaced the digitizer. You can find one for around $35.00 these days.
graphdarnell said:
Not sure where to start. If you've taken apart the thing before, i'd be easier. Remove the back. Turn off the service switch (Important). Otherwise, you might burn a coil on the motherboard. If you don't know what that is, look at the top of the motherboard. To the left of the power switch (thin amber ribbon for power on top side and volume on right side), there's a switch mounted on the other side but accessible from the top of the board. You'll see the printing "off" and "on" on this side. Slide it to "off" position. (Thumb attached shows location of switch at top, and where the ribbons should be cut off at bottom).
The ribbon part that's taped to the glass is hidden under the lcd. If you don't care, just snip it off where it meets the lcd edge. There's really no need to remove the lcd if you're not intent on replacing the digitizer. Again, since I am not certain what caused the ghost touches in your cases, it's possible they will continue. Hopefully, they won't. But at this point, the digitizer serves no function other than protecting the lcd surface on the outside. No need to save the ribbons.
To tell you the truth, I've tried using the tab with a dock and no touchscreen. You can live with it, but it's enormous inconvenience any way you use the device, from recoveries to roms to any app within. It's just not designed to be user-friendly that way. I eventually gave up and replaced the digitizer. You can find one for around $35.00 these days.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for the information.
I don't plan on using it as a daily device, I just picked up my Note 3 the other day, and using the TF300 is going to feel like going back to the stone age. I really just wanted it to have basic functionality, because I still have the HDMI cable for it, and have XBMC and VLC installed on it, so I can play videos easily on my TV. It has Cyanogenmod on it right now, so really, it should be fine for a while. I could probably also hook up my dualshock 3 to it and game on a TV. Portable low-end console. I'll update the thread later if whenever I get around to cutting the ribbon cable. Thanks again.
My TF700 has recently developed erratic touch and screen behavior when docked.
Symptoms: Jumping screen - the image at times bounces around slightly
Phantom touches happen when touching the sceen OR the BACK of the tablet, and less frequently, when not touching the screen, but when holding the tablet where the screen angle may be moving slightly back and forth.
Sometimes, as well, the tablet does not respond to the keyboard. Changing the angle will sometimes remedy that.
It appears that this only happens when docked and may have to do with movement of the angle of the tablet in the dock. The problem seems to go away if I move the tablet/dock angle more vertical AND support it in the back to keep it from moving back and forth.
My unit is too old to be in warranty. At one point one of the plastic clips on the connector broke and I used epoxy to fix it. I also noticed that at one point, pushing the tablet back to too oblique an angle would actually cause the case of the dock to separate slightly.
It might be possible that some of the "phantom" touches that have been reported when a tablet is sitting untouched are due to vibrations in the room (walking etc) causing the tablet to move the docking angle sufficiently, resulting in the issues here.
Any ideas on how to steady the dock/tablet connection?
sounds more like your touch screen is failing, your fault desciption sounds just like mine did before I changed the touch screen and the issue has now gone away
Sent from my K00C using XDA Premium HD app
Update- Found a "fix" for now
EDIT: I ended up using self-stick velcro, just the fuzzy side. I put a 2 inch strip behind each hinge. The fit is quite tight, but that is what I was aiming for. Tablet is behaving OK.
I tried using my son's keyboard dock and the problem did no occur. It had considerably less play in it as well. I have temporarily concocted a fix -- I put a strip of material (a thin velcro tie wrap, because it was handy) along the inside back of the dock hinge before inserting the tablet. This tightened the connection sufficiently to keep the strange behavior from happening. Gotta come up with something a little more permanent, though. I'm thinking of trying label tape (like TZe Label Tape) until the thickness is right.
Hi,
It would be really helpful if someone can try this.
When keeping the phone on charging and you touch the phone to the ear (exactly at the point where the front camera is), it gives a micro shock to the ear.
If I touch it with my hand there is nothing but it only happens when you touch it to the ear. Voltage might be really really small to feel through the hand.
I have tried using 2 third-party chargers.
Can anyone else try this and reply.
Never happened to me. No instances of static electricity with phone, ever
Sounds like you have a grounding problem, which can happen if you use substandard 3rd party equipment.
Hemilpatel3296 said:
Hi,
It would be really helpful if someone can try this.
When keeping the phone on charging and you touch the phone to the ear (exactly at the point where the front camera is), it gives a micro shock to the ear.
If I touch it with my hand there is nothing but it only happens when you touch it to the ear. Voltage might be really really small to feel through the hand.
I have tried using 2 third-party chargers.
Can anyone else try this and reply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your powerlines may not be grounded properly. I assume the end is a 2 Pin Plug instead of a 3 Pin?
If not the charger, Maybe the wallplug is 2 Pin.
Hemilpatel3296 said:
Hi,
It would be really helpful if someone can try this.
When keeping the phone on charging and you touch the phone to the ear (exactly at the point where the front camera is), it gives a micro shock to the ear.
If I touch it with my hand there is nothing but it only happens when you touch it to the ear. Voltage might be really really small to feel through the hand.
I have tried using 2 third-party chargers.
Can anyone else try this and reply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're hot!
Static electricity, ESD. This can kill devices especially out of circuit assemblies like the mobo, sim cards, and SD cards (slightly ESD harden). The C port of the phone is fairly well harden to ESD, but the less exposure the better.
Damage can be cumulative if it exceeds a certain energy value.
Before touching the phone without moving much, touch an earth ground. This will discharged YOU: it's not the phone! The phone is merely acting as a ground pathway to the neutral pole of the AC power grid via the brick*. The neutral pole is a floating ground rather than a direct earth ground, but close enough! It's not the desired way to channel off a static charge though.
Raising the room humidity to 40% or higher will help reduce ESD and dissipate it faster.
Wear cotton; wool and synthetic fibers are great sources of static electricity. As is walking on a rug or carpet. Your skin conducts the static charge...
*the brick isn't earth grounded; it's double insulated 2 poles (hot/neutral) vs a 3 pole (hot/neutral/earth ground) plug/device. The neutral line has about 1-2 ohms more resistance to earth ground typically than the earth ground on the socket.
Earth ground, center screw on the outlet, cold water pipe if all copper, steam heat radiator or any conductor going deep into the ground.
This can happen if the neutral and ground are NOT bonded at the service entrance (fuse box).
cpufrost said:
This can happen if the neutral and ground are NOT bonded at the service entrance (fuse box).
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Click to collapse
There has to be current flow to feel electricity.
A ground fault isn't the source or cause of this static current flow.
Improper bond of neutral and ground bus bars at service entrance is not a ground fault.
The current flow is between the device and the person holding it. My MBP used to do this too, a slight buzz/tingle felt if touched lightly. The current is very tiny, just above the threshold of being able to be felt. A check of the panel found a missing bonding screw. Once this was fixed the tingling sensation went away.
This may or may not be what the OP is describing. Not likely to be static at all, as that is a quick discharge.
change your cloth from syntetic to cotton (or reverse). while you sitting in your gaming chair, your cloth charging static ESD.
result: change your cloth or buy ant-static cloth spray at Amazon
cpufrost said:
Improper bond of neutral and ground bus bars at service entrance is not a ground fault.
The current flow is between the device and the person holding it. My MBP used to do this too, a slight buzz/tingle felt if touched lightly. The current is very tiny, just above the threshold of being able to be felt. A check of the panel found a missing bonding screw. Once this was fixed the tingling sensation went away.
This may or may not be what the OP is describing. Not likely to be static at all, as that is a quick discharge.
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Click to collapse
Technically it is but whatever.
MBP?
The brick is double insulated, there's not enough output voltage to "feel" it like this.
The brick's output should be fully isolated from its AC input and its own high voltage fast switching circuit*.
* other than ESD this is the only other source of current you be able to feel. If the shock is not continuous, it's a static charge build up. I don't think the HV fast switching primary (max 700 volts but likely much less) could induce a static charge here, but who knows?
blackhawk said:
Technically it is but whatever.
MBP?
The brick is double insulated, there's not enough output voltage to "feel" it like this.
The brick's output should be fully isolated from its AC input and its own high voltage fast switching circuit*.
* other than ESD this is the only other source of current you be able to feel. If the shock is not continuous, it's a static charge build up. I don't think the HV fast switching primary (max 700 volts but likely much less) could induce a static charge here, but who knows?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MBP = Macbook Pro.
The issue is commonplace due to the power bricks not having a chassis ground AND the plugs are not polarized (applies to US only). The neutral should not have potential from ground hence the single point bonding at the service entrance. Then there's the issue of poorly made "bargain priced" charger/bricks found everywhere that are downright dangerous!
Static will build up on any conductor that's not earthed. A 200 foot overhead run that's isolated from ground can measure 50kV potential on a clear sunny day from the breeze! The static has enough jolt to hit you hard too, but not lethal unless you jump out of the bucket and fall to the ground! ;-)
That said, in a dry climate with humidity below 30% indoors, I've felt shocks when touching many things including phones plugged into to their chargers. It's a small pop and slight discomfort due to high voltage potential. It's enough to do permanent damage to sensitive parts hence the reason why techs always touch the chassis with their left hand before touching a part inside with their right, etc.
cpufrost said:
MBP = Macbook Pro.
The issue is commonplace due to the power bricks not having a chassis ground AND the plugs are not polarized (applies to US only). The neutral should not have potential from ground hence the single point bonding at the service entrance. Then there's the issue of poorly made "bargain priced" charger/bricks found everywhere that are downright dangerous!
Static will build up on any conductor that's not earthed. A 200 foot overhead run that's isolated from ground can measure 50kV potential on a clear sunny day from the breeze! The static has enough jolt to hit you hard too, but not lethal unless you jump out of the bucket and fall to the ground! ;-)
That said, in a dry climate with humidity below 30% indoors, I've felt shocks when touching many things including phones plugged into to their chargers. It's a small pop and slight discomfort due to high voltage potential. It's enough to do permanent damage to sensitive parts hence the reason why techs always touch the chassis with their left hand before touching a part inside with their right, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know nothing Mac as you can tell, thank you for the definition.
Neutral is very close to ground potential usually about 1-2 ohms difference. That resistance is that of the house wiring itself.
This applies to most US domestic wiring. It's rather interesting the variants that exist like for milking barns to prevent udder tingle. That's not static though... lol, smartphone tingle
Seriously, kidding about the latter.
However... I suppose the hv fast switching inverter could capacitive couple to the brick's output in some circumstances and and that stray current transferred to the phone's aluminum frame (if it has one). The OP might want to try using another brick as the one they're using might have an internal fault ie a failed bypass capacitor.
Make sure you don't use it when filling car with petrol.