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Are Lysol Disinfectant Wipes harmful for my Note screen and cam?

I like to clean my Note but don't know if the ingredient in it will eventually damage the quality of the glass or screen.
https://www.google.com/search?q=lys...=X&ei=ZhprVMePBuSQigLHroCAAg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#

LeoNote4 said:
I like to clean my Note but don't know if the ingredient in it will eventually damage the quality of the glass or screen.
https://www.google.com/search?q=lys...=X&ei=ZhprVMePBuSQigLHroCAAg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't worry bout it, but why don't you simply use a glass cleaner or those wipes for reading glasses

Coz they don't have antibac. Mobile phones carry e.coli or fecal matter. Just using the handrails, pushing elevator doors, shaking hands, holding cream mugs at Starbucks, it's our poor phones that had to collect all that virus

I have a film type screen protector and a new UAG case on mine.
To wipe off screen I just use a microfibre cloth and some rubbing alcohol which is 70% isopropyl alcohol and 30% water.
Works great , no reside, no damage and its cheap. I use it on my glasses too.
Will kill bacteria just as well as the alcohol handwash gel you can buy which is basically the same 70% alcohol..
Hope that helps.

LeoNote4 said:
Coz they don't have antibac. Mobile phones carry e.coli or fecal matter. Just using the handrails, pushing elevator doors, shaking hands, holding cream mugs at Starbucks, it's our poor phones that had to collect all that virus
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Alcohol is the prime ingredient in screen cleaners and is also a great anti-bacterial agent.
If you are worried about stuff it can't kill... wear gloves or a Haz-Mat suit.

You should absolutely under no account EVER clean ANY display screens with normal household cleaners. Harsh chemicals like ammonia, bleach, or for that matter even alcohol can severely damage the coatings on electronics displays, causing them to become foggy, cloudy, and scratched. I'm not all that familiar with the active ingredient in Lysol (benzalkonium chloride), but I personally wouldn't let it anywhere near my phone. There are countless cleaning sprays and wipes on the market that are formulated specifically for electronics displays, and I wouldn't use anything to clean any of mine unless it stated explicitly that it is made for displays. Even most eyeglass lens cleaners contain alcohol, so be very careful to read the ingredients and intended use! This goes not just for phones, but for computer monitors, televisions, laptops, basically any and all electronic displays.
If you're really worried about bacteria and want a disinfectant, there do exist several options that ARE made for displays, such as this:
http://www.monsterproducts.com/Monster_CleanTouch_for_iPad_iPhone_and_iPod?pin=5930
A little googling will turn up many more as well.

This guy....

Bacteria and fecal matter. Lol. Must be hard being OCD/germ phobic.
I'm all for being hygienic, but I don't see this as a real issue. I've never gotten sick from touching my own phone.
Back on topic, the screens do have a coating. So harsh chemicals could remove that making it less oleophobic.
And in rare circumstances you CAN cloud some screens, but that is mainly on plastic not glass.

LeoNote4 said:
I like to clean my Note but don't know if the ingredient in it will eventually damage the quality of the glass or screen.
https://www.google.com/search?q=lys...=X&ei=ZhprVMePBuSQigLHroCAAg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, cant say for sure but I routinely use cavi-wipes and chlorox wipes on my phones (I am not just OCD, but work in a hospital...)
I do usually have a screen protector on my phone (cheapo tempered glass on the note right now)

I use these same wipes and have done it for years with no issue on the original gorilla glass that I had on the Sprint Galaxy Epic. I don't use them frequently but more as needed. Had the same phone for three years and the only screen damage I had was from dropping the phone without a case; the glass had some minor scratches.
OT; all the criticism of OLED screens burning out, failed pixels or burn-in never happened that I could tell. Aside from sunlight visibility and the scratches that only seemed visible when oil or debris got in them, the screen was pristine the day I traded it for the Note 4. I expect more from this screen in the next two years.
I've read that screen protectors defeat some of the advantages of OLED with increased density of view. Some of OLED's advantages are wrought by bringing images nearer to the surface than LCD screens, if I understood that well enough. Hence, for me, the case with raised bezel lip should provide adequate drop protection unless throwing phone to prove its ruggedness with case and screen protector or dropping it from a moving vehicle. I don't recommend trying either. Thankfully, I've only needed drop protection for trying to carry too many loose items at once or being butter fingers and try to catch a dropped phone only to increase its velocity or drag it on pavement trying to scoop it on a bounce. It happens occasionally; I've been fortunate but will keep it in a case.

For a Lysol wipe's disinfectant properties to work the surface has to be kept wet with the wipe's moisture for I think 60 seconds (may be longer). The instructions will be on the packaging. If you just wipe the phone there are no disinfectant properties using the Lysol wipe.

You have to be extremely careful with some of these cleaning wipes. I use to work on medical equipment and some of the devices that came back to the repair center had there housings weakened by various disinfecting agents.
For example many of these cleaning products have dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride which in small doses is fine but in larger concentrations it's not good.
I would find something labeled for electronic devices that is safe for plastics and metal. Don't assume that these products are safe for everything. Worst case call the company and ask.
http://www.saniscreenwipes.com/
http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Wipes-Cell-Phone-Peppermint/dp/B003CJWIG0
http://www.amazon.com/Advantus-Right-PhoneKleen-Cleaning-REARR1303/dp/B000FNCYW4 (Noticed how this one has dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride)

LeoNote4 said:
Coz they don't have antibac. Mobile phones carry e.coli or fecal matter. Just using the handrails, pushing elevator doors, shaking hands, holding cream mugs at Starbucks, it's our poor phones that had to collect all that virus
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Click to collapse
Your immune system will take care of all that. And it's just as well, because it needs the exercise to stay fit! You won't get sick from touching your phone, if that were possible, we'd all be dead by now.
iR¡[email protected]!* from Galaxy Note 4 via Tapatalk

Impact Damage

I own a OnePlus One that was recently thrown forcibly down a flight of stairs. It survived the fall unscathed, probably because my case is basically a rubber tank. However, I really like my phone, and I was wondering if physical shock can damage or impact phones in some way other than cosmetically (like dents or cracks). Can my performance take a hit? How badly are phones affected by impact damage?

LeCrazyPanda said:
I own a OnePlus One that was recently thrown forcibly down a flight of stairs. It survived the fall unscathed, probably because my case is basically a rubber tank. However, I really like my phone, and I was wondering if physical shock can damage or impact phones in some way other than cosmetically (like dents or cracks). Can my performance take a hit? How badly are phones affected by impact damage?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure a bad impact can damage the internals. Wires can get knocked loose, connecters can disconnect, camera lenses can break,etc. Then there's the circuit boards themselves. The boards are fiberglass, which is tough and stiff, but the imbedded wires/leads aren't very tough, and an overflexed board can break the leads.
But if the phone works, then the phone works. Performance wouldn't take a hit if something was damaged; the phone wouldn't work, or specific apps/functions would fail because of a damaged sensor or something. Like you tried to load a GPS app and it failed or crashed because the GPS receiver was damaged.
Good to know the OnePlus one can take a hit. I guess that magnesium frame is pretty tough.

Changing display

My display damaged and i wanna to ask you smth guys.
How difficulty is it to change it by myself?
I watch this video "
" and i concluded its pretty easy to change it. But the only tool i dont have is the heatgun the other tools i can buy.
Tell me your opinion. Is it easy to do?

Can't tell if it's easy, but in other situations that I needed a heat gun and didn't have one, I used a hair dryer, which is way more common to have at home, or at least easier to borrow from a neighbor or something like that

Watch tear down and repair vids.
If a repair shop will let you watch them do it.
ESD, learn and understand what it is. Discreet components ie the display and mobo are very susceptible to it out of circuit.
Bare minimum protection is a bare wood surface to work on and a relative room humidity of 50% or better. A earth grounded ESD mat and wrist strap is best
Disconnect the battery as soon as possible in the disassembly process. Discharge below 40% if possible before starting.
Have all the drivers, picks, fine precision tweezers, and tools needed. Excellent light and a 2X or so optical visor be nice.
Inspect for additional damage*.
Have a set of OEM seals and now's a good time to replace the battery if it's performance has noticably dropped.
Take pictures disassembling if needed. It must be put back together exactly as it was.
Do Not over torgue screws... less is better.
Be very careful not to damage the ribbon microconnectors.
Take your time, no rush.
*any impact that can break the display or bend the frame can damage the mobo. High G loads or direct impacts can damage chipsets internally, fracture solder joints and internally damaged multilayered mobo PCB internal traces.

I did it three days ago, bc my mix 3 had contact with water.
Its kind of easy to do with a hairdryer and a small plastic tool.
The hardest part is to glue it back together.
(But I have to say my screen didn't work afterwards. The expert in the phone repair store said its maybe a problem on the motherboard)

slowmotion11 said:
I did it three days ago, bc my mix 3 had contact with water.
Its kind of easy to do with a hairdryer and a small plastic tool.
The hardest part is to glue it back together.
(But I have to say my screen didn't work afterwards. The expert in the phone repair store said its maybe a problem on the motherboard)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the battery isn't promptly removed and especially if it's not immediately powered down the current can cause corrosion and short out circuits. The power section is particularly vulnerable. Try again, inspect mobo and the ribbon connectors for signs of corrosion and moisture. Use bright light and magnification.
Is it completely dry? A good soaking with anhydrous isopropyl will help remove hidden water. Again dry completely afterwards. Getting the underside of BGA chipsets dry is imperative.
The micro connectors tend to trap moisture too.
Careful use of compressed air can be very useful but the key word here is careful. Don't stick a nozzle with 100 psi an inch or two from the mobo! Either use low pressure clean, dry air or back it up for high pressure air.
Use your best judgment... it's a bit of an art.
After you dry it as good as possible let it sit in a warm, dry room with a fan on it. Complete drying may take days without disassembly.

Thank you for the tips! I will try it like you described

The same is true with flooded cars, promptly pulling the battery can limit the damage even save the vehicle.
Be wary on flood damage vehicles for sale now, always check for water lines/marks
Most will suffer impossible electrical problems forever. Brine water always kills...

Question Getting shocked when Charging and you touch the phone to your ear.

Hi,
It would be really helpful if someone can try this.
When keeping the phone on charging and you touch the phone to the ear (exactly at the point where the front camera is), it gives a micro shock to the ear.
If I touch it with my hand there is nothing but it only happens when you touch it to the ear. Voltage might be really really small to feel through the hand.
I have tried using 2 third-party chargers.
Can anyone else try this and reply.

Never happened to me. No instances of static electricity with phone, ever

Sounds like you have a grounding problem, which can happen if you use substandard 3rd party equipment.

Hemilpatel3296 said:
Hi,
It would be really helpful if someone can try this.
When keeping the phone on charging and you touch the phone to the ear (exactly at the point where the front camera is), it gives a micro shock to the ear.
If I touch it with my hand there is nothing but it only happens when you touch it to the ear. Voltage might be really really small to feel through the hand.
I have tried using 2 third-party chargers.
Can anyone else try this and reply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your powerlines may not be grounded properly. I assume the end is a 2 Pin Plug instead of a 3 Pin?
If not the charger, Maybe the wallplug is 2 Pin.

Hemilpatel3296 said:
Hi,
It would be really helpful if someone can try this.
When keeping the phone on charging and you touch the phone to the ear (exactly at the point where the front camera is), it gives a micro shock to the ear.
If I touch it with my hand there is nothing but it only happens when you touch it to the ear. Voltage might be really really small to feel through the hand.
I have tried using 2 third-party chargers.
Can anyone else try this and reply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're hot!
Static electricity, ESD. This can kill devices especially out of circuit assemblies like the mobo, sim cards, and SD cards (slightly ESD harden). The C port of the phone is fairly well harden to ESD, but the less exposure the better.
Damage can be cumulative if it exceeds a certain energy value.
Before touching the phone without moving much, touch an earth ground. This will discharged YOU: it's not the phone! The phone is merely acting as a ground pathway to the neutral pole of the AC power grid via the brick*. The neutral pole is a floating ground rather than a direct earth ground, but close enough! It's not the desired way to channel off a static charge though.
Raising the room humidity to 40% or higher will help reduce ESD and dissipate it faster.
Wear cotton; wool and synthetic fibers are great sources of static electricity. As is walking on a rug or carpet. Your skin conducts the static charge...
*the brick isn't earth grounded; it's double insulated 2 poles (hot/neutral) vs a 3 pole (hot/neutral/earth ground) plug/device. The neutral line has about 1-2 ohms more resistance to earth ground typically than the earth ground on the socket.
Earth ground, center screw on the outlet, cold water pipe if all copper, steam heat radiator or any conductor going deep into the ground.

This can happen if the neutral and ground are NOT bonded at the service entrance (fuse box).

cpufrost said:
This can happen if the neutral and ground are NOT bonded at the service entrance (fuse box).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There has to be current flow to feel electricity.
A ground fault isn't the source or cause of this static current flow.

Improper bond of neutral and ground bus bars at service entrance is not a ground fault.
The current flow is between the device and the person holding it. My MBP used to do this too, a slight buzz/tingle felt if touched lightly. The current is very tiny, just above the threshold of being able to be felt. A check of the panel found a missing bonding screw. Once this was fixed the tingling sensation went away.
This may or may not be what the OP is describing. Not likely to be static at all, as that is a quick discharge.

change your cloth from syntetic to cotton (or reverse). while you sitting in your gaming chair, your cloth charging static ESD.
result: change your cloth or buy ant-static cloth spray at Amazon

cpufrost said:
Improper bond of neutral and ground bus bars at service entrance is not a ground fault.
The current flow is between the device and the person holding it. My MBP used to do this too, a slight buzz/tingle felt if touched lightly. The current is very tiny, just above the threshold of being able to be felt. A check of the panel found a missing bonding screw. Once this was fixed the tingling sensation went away.
This may or may not be what the OP is describing. Not likely to be static at all, as that is a quick discharge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Technically it is but whatever.
MBP?
The brick is double insulated, there's not enough output voltage to "feel" it like this.
The brick's output should be fully isolated from its AC input and its own high voltage fast switching circuit*.
* other than ESD this is the only other source of current you be able to feel. If the shock is not continuous, it's a static charge build up. I don't think the HV fast switching primary (max 700 volts but likely much less) could induce a static charge here, but who knows?

blackhawk said:
Technically it is but whatever.
MBP?
The brick is double insulated, there's not enough output voltage to "feel" it like this.
The brick's output should be fully isolated from its AC input and its own high voltage fast switching circuit*.
* other than ESD this is the only other source of current you be able to feel. If the shock is not continuous, it's a static charge build up. I don't think the HV fast switching primary (max 700 volts but likely much less) could induce a static charge here, but who knows?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MBP = Macbook Pro.
The issue is commonplace due to the power bricks not having a chassis ground AND the plugs are not polarized (applies to US only). The neutral should not have potential from ground hence the single point bonding at the service entrance. Then there's the issue of poorly made "bargain priced" charger/bricks found everywhere that are downright dangerous!
Static will build up on any conductor that's not earthed. A 200 foot overhead run that's isolated from ground can measure 50kV potential on a clear sunny day from the breeze! The static has enough jolt to hit you hard too, but not lethal unless you jump out of the bucket and fall to the ground! ;-)
That said, in a dry climate with humidity below 30% indoors, I've felt shocks when touching many things including phones plugged into to their chargers. It's a small pop and slight discomfort due to high voltage potential. It's enough to do permanent damage to sensitive parts hence the reason why techs always touch the chassis with their left hand before touching a part inside with their right, etc.

cpufrost said:
MBP = Macbook Pro.
The issue is commonplace due to the power bricks not having a chassis ground AND the plugs are not polarized (applies to US only). The neutral should not have potential from ground hence the single point bonding at the service entrance. Then there's the issue of poorly made "bargain priced" charger/bricks found everywhere that are downright dangerous!
Static will build up on any conductor that's not earthed. A 200 foot overhead run that's isolated from ground can measure 50kV potential on a clear sunny day from the breeze! The static has enough jolt to hit you hard too, but not lethal unless you jump out of the bucket and fall to the ground! ;-)
That said, in a dry climate with humidity below 30% indoors, I've felt shocks when touching many things including phones plugged into to their chargers. It's a small pop and slight discomfort due to high voltage potential. It's enough to do permanent damage to sensitive parts hence the reason why techs always touch the chassis with their left hand before touching a part inside with their right, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know nothing Mac as you can tell, thank you for the definition.
Neutral is very close to ground potential usually about 1-2 ohms difference. That resistance is that of the house wiring itself.
This applies to most US domestic wiring. It's rather interesting the variants that exist like for milking barns to prevent udder tingle. That's not static though... lol, smartphone tingle
Seriously, kidding about the latter.
However... I suppose the hv fast switching inverter could capacitive couple to the brick's output in some circumstances and and that stray current transferred to the phone's aluminum frame (if it has one). The OP might want to try using another brick as the one they're using might have an internal fault ie a failed bypass capacitor.

Make sure you don't use it when filling car with petrol.

Building my own battery

New batteries for the XDA Exec/JasJar are not available anymore, so I want to try to equip my old battery with new cells.
I found a suitably thin pair of 3.7v Lipo batteries as a replacement.
I managed to open the old battery and remove the old cells without incident.
The question is now: should I remove the old battery management sysmte I found inside or use the new cells with their own BMS?
The old battery has four contacts, positive, negative, one thermistor and a status indicator.
The new cells I have only have two contacts, positive and negative.
Will the phone work with the middle contacts not being connected? If I remove the BMS of the new cells and connect them to the old BMS, the cells are a different capacity. Would that matter?

You want the thermistor to monitor battery temperature. The power controller may puke all over you without that input and go into default mode. Whatever that is.
Charge state is voltage based so if the cell voltage ratings are the same as the OEM ones it should work. If you solder to the cells you better be quick and proficient at soldering with a temp controlled iron 45-85 watts (I go for 650-720F) and 63/37 flux core solder. Pre-tin any wires...

I soldered the new cells to the old BMS and it's working fine.
The soldering wasn't quick though. The solder was very reluctant to sticking to the metal strips, despite me roughing them up with sand paper and using extra flux. Any suggestions of how to make solder stick more readily?
Is the cell potentially unsafe now? Is there a much higher risk that it will spontaneasly burst into flames?

You should pre tin it. I will aggressively rub the tinned iron tip* on the surface with lots of rosin flux to get it to tin. OK to use excess solder and allow it to drip off as it carries away the contaminants. Allow to cool. On problem surfaces I'll waste a lot of solder just to get them to tin. Got to go with the flow... did production soldering for decades
Once both surfaces are pre tinned then solder. 37/63 solder works best; lower melting point, flows better.
You're probably ok as long as there's no noticable or battery bulging. Maybe do a test cycle or two with the cover loose to test it and make sure the thermistor is still reasonably accurate.
*greatly reduces tip lifespan. Normally you avoid do this. I reccomend using at least a 65 watt iron to overcome the battery's heat sinking capacity. Lower btu's mean unwanted excessive heating of the battery due to excessive heating time. Sometimes bumping up the iron temperature yields a faster solder joint but speed is of essence. Loitering with the heat more then a few seconds is to be avoided. Using the right size/shape tip can increase the heat transfer and help to minimize contact time. Sanding is normally never used to clean solder surfaces in electronics. It may make it harder. Make sure the surface doesn't have a conformal coating, if so remove it first. Brillo pad to clean tips of burnt build up; they don't cut into the tip plating on the tinned zone (destroying them).
I use tips that have a large tinned zone as smaller zones (measured from tip back) will foul much quicker as the burst rosin accumulates no matter how often you wet sponge it and well you keep them tinned.
Get as much tip surface area on the zone to be solder as possible at the get. Soldering is a skill/art that requires practice to learn.

Even aluminum solders easily. Except aluminum oxide doesn't.
Apply oil, sandpaper it, solder through the oil.

Renate said:
Even aluminum solders easily. Except aluminum oxide doesn't.
Apply oil, sandpaper it, solder through the oil.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. Cool trick if it works.
Never had to play with that much. Cheap steel lead electronic components are a pain.
Apparently using a very high tin content solder helps, but any zinc chloride if used must be completely removed. Check its melting point first...
Also immediately after soldering quench the battery with a damp cloth to cool it more rapidly.

Any kind of oil? Sunflower oil?

naujoks said:
Any kind of oil? Sunflower oil?
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Click to collapse
Lol, I just did a check of my assertion.
I used spray canola oil from the dollar store.

Renate said:
Lol, I just did a check of my assertion.
I used spray canola oil from the dollar store.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rosin flux is the O2 sheild when soldering... and it won't permeate into the display. Just use liquid or paste rosin flux and Emery cloth, etc.