Related
I was just about to click "add to cart" for another premium car mount when I said to myself "This is the 3rd $70 car mount in 12 months, are you insane?".
Yes, I said.
But then I got the idea of building a powerful magnetic mount that would work on any new phone, just glue a flat washer to the back of each phone case. So off I went, looking for some old/damaged hard drives for the super strong magnets inside.
Heres what I came up with. The car mount is a bracket that I bought from McMaster-Carr Stk# 1492A15 ($47.40). The desk mount is from a $6 ebay phone mount that I bough for my Touch-HD. I used Gorilla Glue to attach the magnets to the mount plates, and to the flat washer on the back of my Nexus One. Let that sit over night. Below that is a wad of hot melt glue that I applied, let cool for 30 seconds, then stuck the phone onto the mount to compress the glue to make a perfect fit anti-skid area.
Now the phone jumps right into place and doesn't budge, but it is easy to just tilt the bottom up to release.
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Don't you think it would be smarter to attach the washer to a $10 removeable case, than a $500 phone?
Henchman said:
Don't you think it would be smarter to attach the washer to a $10 removeable case, than a $500 phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We may differ on our definitions of smart, but since my last two phones cost over $900 each, and now they sit wasted on my desk, making a non-aesthetic mod to my $500 phone doesn't really bother me. Chances are I'll have a new phone in 2 months anyway (If AT&T gets a decent HTC model).
Ok, to answer the question, yes, it would be smarter, but it still works in my Nexus One Dock
After reading though everyone else's car mount experiences, its an expensive crapshoot, unless you make your own mount. I've bought all sorts of mounts in the past, 3 Brodit, and many others. All had some pitfall, and all excluded using a skin or shell.
I'm toying with the same idea ... espacially after seeing the touchstone mod some guy did.
One question though, can't you mount the washer inside the battery cover in stead of outside ?
John_duh said:
One question though, can't you mount the washer inside the battery cover in stead of outside ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just tried placing a dime on the battery, but the cover just won't fit. My micrometer measures that at .0047in. I ordered some 6mm x 1mm round N35 magnets (.0039in.) , which I plan on trying inside the case. Plain steel wont cut it.
If the magnets won't fit, I'll heat one and melt it into the inside of the case in a circular pattern of 3 or more, then glue in 3 fresh ones. Neodymium magnets weaken over 80C.
Update: I had a smaller magnet from a 2.5" drive handy and it fit inside the case of my Touch-HD, and it seems to have enough power to hold the phone to the mount. It would be better if the mound of glue was flush with the case, but the fact that its holding well means I'll be able to do the same with the Nexus One with multiple thinner magnets.
The key is having some non-skid material against the back of the phone so it doesn't rotate easily.
Update2: I made a video showing how well it works, ie: with the non-optimal non-skid area, the phone back is not flush with the mount magnet.
View attachment rotomagnetmount.zip
Glad to see another fellow McMaster customer from me home state of NJ
I like the idea, pure brilliance ! One could use "rare earth" magnets - these are frequent on Ebay are extremely strong. They normally come in cylindrical shapes - say 3/8" OD by 3/4" length.
The magnets function ought to be to keep the device from flying off the mount. I'd fashion a "lip" of sorts, to hold the device against gravity (so it doesnt slide off the mount).
In my case, I bought 2 common "cell phone" mounts, with suction cups from AutoZone. The neck can be bent in whichever way one find convenient and it is plentry sturdy.
I then drilled a hole in the adapter's bottom plate and through the said hole, I have routed a micro USB cable, very tightly (yeah, one could use hot glue too, mines are both friction fits).
Now, I just slide the N1 into the cradles, so that it mates with the micro USB end protruding from the bottom of the cradle's plate and it works real fine. The USB connector provides juice to the phone, while driving AND acts to hold the the device in the cradle.
Are there any issues with using a magnet so close to the phone. I think I read something alone the lines of such somewhere
rashid11 said:
The magnets function ought to be to keep the device from flying off the mount.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can tell you, theres no need for a lip, the phone isn't going to pop off the mount
My vehicle is a Hummer H3 with 33" tires, not a very smooth ride at all. My phone doesn't budge.
mesajoejoe said:
Are there any issues with using a magnet so close to the phone. I think I read something alone the lines of such somewhere
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
None so far. I used the phone for 45mins while driving with the phone in the mount and I noticed no issues, no dropped calls.
Its some much nicer to look at and operate without a big ugly, clunky plastic contraption holding it in place. Its easy to hit the side buttons or plug in the charger cord.
I'm pretty sure I screwed up my old iphone 2g lcd by carrying it in my pocket with some rare-earth magnets that I got from dealextreme. The colors on one area were messed up and then eventually a few dozen pixels went dead.
I'm not an electrical engineer, but I'm sure nervous about using those crazy strong magnets close to anything that depends on the flow of electrons. just saying...
dealextreme.com is an excellent place to get rare earth magnets (and other weird crap) I'm in no way affiliated. I just think every self respecting gadget nerd should know about it.
Wouldn't the magnet mess with the compass? I've heard reports of people saying cases with magnetic latches have damaged the compass. (That was with the Magic though.) They say it doesn't report properly after using the case for an extended amount of time.
bradyonly said:
Wouldn't the magnet mess with the compass? I've heard reports of people saying cases with magnetic latches have damaged the compass. (That was with the Magic though.) They say it doesn't report properly after using the case for an extended amount of time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the magnet renders the compass useless. I'd never use the compass while its mounted anyways (at my desk or while driving), so it a non-issue. So far after 2 days in the mount, no damage or alteration of the compass reading has occurred.
As soon as I damage something, I'll immediately post a note here.
Hideous!!!
Part Four said:
Hideous!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the engineering world, we call it a "proof of concept". Its allowed to look hideous. I'm working on another 2 variations, after which I'll build the visually aesthetic version 1.0 Deluxe Professional Platinum Edition.
Now that I ordered my new AT&T Nexus One today, Ill get a second chance to make a version that doesn't modify the outside case of the phone.
looks like it gave your windshield a serious crack
Excellent. I was about to toss that 2.5in hard drive because it wasn't heavy enough to function as a paperweight.
smot13 said:
looks like it gave your windshield a serious crack
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I forgot to mention that the magnetic pull is so strong toward the vehicle floor that it instantly cracked the windshield. Thats why I now rest the bracket on the dashboard.
I think my insurance covers "damage due to homemade magnetic accessories" somewhere, I'm still looking.
What you can't see is that theres a small adhesive rubber square under the extension latch between it and the dashboard, so I don't scuff it up. Note that the mount is very rigid and barely vibrates while driving, making it easy to read and operate the phone (and break many laws).
rotohammer said:
Yeah, I forgot to mention that the magnetic pull is so strong toward the vehicle floor that it instantly cracked the windshield. Thats why I now rest the bracket on the dashboard. .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you kidding me? The magnet cracked your windscreen?
mynameisjon said:
Are you kidding me? The magnet cracked your windscreen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was just kidding. The windshield cracked when a piece of a truck leaf spring flew like a boomerang across the highway into the windshield. I was happy it didn't hit my truck body, as my windshield already had 4 dings/cracks from bolts/rocks from driving on the NJ Turnpike.
4 months later. Do you still use your magnetic car?
Did you find out any issues with the magnetic field that could have harm your phone?
I built my own and I just need to be sure before use mine every day.
This thread provides a simple solution to a rather serious screen unresponsiveness problem. The problem can manifest in some of the following ways: it takes more than one attempt to move the lock ring, not every press is registered when typing, buttons at the bottom of the screen don't always work, you can't get the carousel spinning, hectic touch issues while charging, etc. Many Sensations have this problem to some degree, and it has been reported on other phone models. Other phones can't be fixed using this method, but you could try the discharge process described under the fix.
UPDATE YOUR FIRMWARE FIRST
Before proceeding with any hardware "manipulation" I recommend you try the latest firmware. If you are running a stock ROM simply update your phone's software, and if you are on a custom pre-ICS ROM the update can be found here.
If the issues persist, keep reading.
IMPORTANT
You have to realise this fix does not solve the issue for everyone. So just to be clear, THIS DOES NOT SOLVE THE ISSUE FOR EVERYONE. The reason for this is simple - not everybody has the same issue. My opinion is that these issues have similar symptoms, but the causes are different. Similar issues could be caused by: a faulty charger, bad digitizer or SD card slot touching the cover.
The issue discussed here is related to a small silver pin located at the back of the phone (pictures below). That pin is the screen's "grounding" connection to the back cover. In time the pin loses proper contact to the cover and the screen becomes unresponsive. There is also a matter of static build-up which further complicates matters. I believe this is mostly down to the worst back cover in the known universe.
You could get this problem for no particular reason, but you might also experience it after dropping the phone, sneezing too hard, or when using an aftermarket battery (Anker, Chichitec, etc.) since they are usually thicker. If you have issues only while charging try a different charger. If you still have issues, this fix should help.
Note that there is more than one way to fix the issue, and that the results are not always instantaneous. The simplest fix is pulling the aforementioned pin outwards. The downside is the pin might bend back into its original position... So you could try applying one of the alternative solutions as an addition to pulling the pin.
Also, I am not responsible for your actions. If you damage your phone, it's on you.
CREDITS
What I'm doing here is sorting useful info and adding creative advice, I am not the one responsible for the actual solution. It's primarily tinky1, who started the first thread on the issue, where most debating and solving was performed. Then, misiek_to_ja (and his daughter ) noticed that using the phone without the back cover temporarily solves the problem. This meant the problem was beneath the back plate, which abrown0809 proved by pointing us to the grounding pin that everybody was somehow missing for two months. What followed were aluminium foil and soldering tricks that eliteone thought of. stuart0001 started a petition, but HTC ignored it. Andyjb103 pointed out that the firmware update can fix the issue in some cases. And there is of course everyone from tinky1's thread that went through loads of pain and suffering while testing different chargers, wall sockets, USB plugs, area codes, weather conditions, etc. A BIG THANKS TO EVERYONE!
Now then...
THE FIX
First, the simplest way to fix the issue. Switch the phone off, remove the back cover and locate the silver pin shown in this picture.
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Now pull it out a bit, like so:
Use a needle, a tiny screwdriver, or anything with a pointy end. Just be careful and don't pull too hard or too much. The side of the pin that is closer to the edge of the phone is the side you want do the most pulling to.
And that's it as far as the pin goes! Results could be instant, but there is still a chance you'll need to do a couple of things:
1. Discharge the phone all the way (until it shuts down).
2. Remove the battery and press the power button (as if you were trying to turn the phone on).
3. Leave the phone without the battery overnight (or for at least an hour).
4. Put the battery back and charge the phone without touching the screen.
Make sure you don't touch the screen whenever you're charging, until the issue disappears. This should happen within 2-3 days. If the problem persists, you ether did something wrong, or (as explained above) you have a different issue... Most common related problem is a faulty digitizer.
If the issue does go away you could make sure it stays that way by applying one of the alternatives as well.
ALTERNATIVES
See this small white square on the inside of the back cover?
That's where the silver pin makes contact to the cover. By pulling the pin out you insure better contact to that square. There are plenty of ways to further improve that contact.
Here is a few:
1. Take a small piece of aluminium foil (2cm by 2cm, or whatever works for you), fold it a few times and put it over the square (like this). Now carefully put the phone into the cover and make sure the foil doesn't move away from the square. If you want to keep the foil in place add a drop of superglue (just not directly on the square).
2. Alternatively, the foil could go directly on the pin. Stuart0001 made a picture of that here. This version is a bit more risky though.
3. Adding any sort of aluminium works (or any conductor for that matter). Take a look at what Oceanic72 did here.
4. Put a few drops of solder onto the square. And be careful with this one... Or just skip it if you've never soldered before. More on that in eliteone's post here.
5. Put some electrically conductive paint on the square. Michael_Mcr suggested that here.
There you go
If any of these solutions solve your problems but they come back, just try again. I do not recommend puling on the pin more than a few times though...
Hope I helped!
May I just add, that the soldering method, while good and permanent is not for noobs that have never soldered before. In order for solder to properly fuse with aluminum you have to prep the aluminum first. If you don't the solder will just fall off. And keep your iron JUST HOT ENOUGH to melt the solder, if your iron is too hot you risk warping the aluminum your soldering to. But all that being said if your good with an iron, its the most permanent and effective way of getting true contact with your grounding pin. If anybody wants I can do a quick video tut and post it here, just not for a few days...... Got a new baby joining the family tomorrow so life will be pretty hectic round here
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using xda premium
Nice post!
eliteone said:
May I just add, that the soldering method, while good and permanent is not for noobs that have never soldered before. In order for solder to properly fuse with aluminum you have to prep the aluminum first. If you don't the solder will just fall off. And keep your iron JUST HOT ENOUGH to melt the solder, if your iron is too hot you risk warping the aluminum your soldering to. But all that being said if your good with an iron, its the most permanent and effective way of getting true contact with your grounding pin. If anybody wants I can do a quick video tut and post it here, just not for a few days...... Got a new baby joining the family tomorrow so life will be pretty hectic round here
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Congrats!!!
Thanks
OP updated.
And congrats to eliteone again!
zmfl said:
First off, I am not the one responsible for the solution. It's primarily tinky1, who started the first thread on the issue, where most debating and solving was, and still is, performed. Then, abrown0809 pointed us to the grounding pin that everybody was somehow missing for two months. What followed were aluminium foil and soldering tricks that eliteone thought of. Also, stuart0001 started a petition that I hope HTC noticed... THANK YOU ALL
I might have missed somebody important... Sorry, I am dealing with a lot of info these couple of days... There is of course everyone from tinky1's thread that went through loads of pain and suffering while testing every possible solution and fix. Myself included
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I (or more my daughter) will take the credit as well. If I would not discover the fix with taking off the back cover it would not point all of you to grounding pin
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=16858697&postcount=917
I don't have these problems, but thanking anyway I hope this solves the problem for most people
Swyped from my HTC Sensation
misiek_to_ja said:
Well, I (or more my daughter) will take the credit as well. If I would not discover the fix with taking off the back cover it would not point all of you to grounding pin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are probably right... You slipped my mind, sorry
Updating OP.
idavid_ said:
I don't have these problems, but thanking anyway I hope this solves the problem for most people
Swyped from my HTC Sensation
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the community spirit!!!
eliteone, congrats with the littleone Make sure you reserve this nick on xda
Got my camera back, so proper pictures added
Eliteone promised some pictures of the solder fix. We'll get those in due time… Babies are more important than XDA
zmfl said:
Got my camera back, so proper pictures added
Eliteone promised some pictures of the solder fix. We'll get those in due time… Babies are more important than XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
XDA > Real life
Swyped from my HTC Sensation
idavid_ said:
XDA > Real life
Swyped from my HTC Sensation
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm guessing his wife disagrees with that
Hello,
i have solved the issues related to screen's grounding with a curved alu stripe.
Greetings
Marcus
Oceanic72 said:
Hello,
i have solved the issues related to screen's grounding with a curved alu stripe.
Greetings
Marcus
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That even looks good.. I'll add it to the list
My issues came back after about 2 weeks... I believe the pin bends back into its original position after a while... Adding something, like foil, aluminium or solder, might be necessary after all. I'll keep testing.
Thicker 1730mAh Batteries can cause current leakage while charging - Solution
Thanks!
I noticed a small current leakage when charging my Sensation with a 1730mAh battery, and some strange effects if I handled the phone for extended periods while charging - like the power menu popping up when I hadn't pressed the power button.
The battery is about 1mm thicker, and I suspected it was somehow causing something to make contact with the case, or shorting. I could feel the leaking current by rubbing the metal case with my finger and feeling a sort of 'fuzziness'. This only happened when it was charging, and I was able to reproduce this problem with both the HTC OEM Evo 3D 1730mAh battery and the 3rd party Anker / Chichitec battery.
After seeing this post, I realised that the slightly thicker battery was *separating* the contact between the case and this grounding plate. The battery fits perfectly and snugly into the Sensation, but the increased thickness was just enough to reduce the case's contact with the grounding plate.
I was very careful to bend the grounding plate out slightly with a tiny screwdriver as described in your first post.
Now there's no more current leakage! YAY!
..and yet ppl are bashing Samsung for build quality.
I came from a Htc Hero with the same problem as this. Sent it in and it was working fine for about three days, then the same problem again.
Then I bought the SGS2 and never looked back.. plastic fantastic
try to plug in a Nokia charger that outputs 1.2A and you'll get the problem continuously.
on the other hand, a computer USB port has low amp output and therefor it "solves" the issue.
btw, i got more touch issues with the Anker battery (again, higher amp output...)
Looks like something with the charging/power control mechanism of this unit is completely wrong
this will be very useful if this every happens to me, bookmarked
sowen222 said:
Thanks!
I noticed a small current leakage when charging my Sensation with a 1730mAh battery, and some strange effects if I handled the phone for extended periods while charging - like the power menu popping up when I hadn't pressed the power button.
The battery is about 1mm thicker, and I suspected it was somehow causing something to make contact with the case, or shorting. I could feel the leaking current by rubbing the metal case with my finger and feeling a sort of 'fuzziness'. This only happened when it was charging, and I was able to reproduce this problem with both the HTC OEM Evo 3D 1730mAh battery and the 3rd party Anker / Chichitec battery.
After seeing this post, I realised that the slightly thicker battery was *separating* the contact between the case and this grounding plate. The battery fits perfectly and snugly into the Sensation, but the increased thickness was just enough to reduce the case's contact with the grounding plate.
I was very careful to bend the grounding plate out slightly with a tiny screwdriver as described in your first post.
Now there's no more current leakage! YAY!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Makes sense... Thicker battery would mess up the grounding contact. Glad it works
Careful though... The pin might bend back. It did for me after a while
ranster said:
try to plug in a Nokia charger that outputs 1.2A and you'll get the problem continuously.
on the other hand, a computer USB port has low amp output and therefor it "solves" the issue.
btw, i got more touch issues with the Anker battery (again, higher amp output...)
Looks like something with the charging/power control mechanism of this unit is completely wrong
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's true, some phones act differently when charged with different chargers. For some though, mine included, it makes no difference...
Did you try any of the fixes I posted? Any changes?
This solved half of my problem, before I had a silicon case for protection and everything worked like a charm, then I got touchscreen problems. I put some aluminumfoil like discribed above.
Now without the silicon case it works perfect but with it´s still the same.
Is this because the rubber doesn´t conduct ? But then why did it work in the first place?
Does somebody else uses a rubber case?
Anyone else have the problem of the screen lifting?
I have only had the phone a few weeks, never dropped it.
These pics will explain:
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Then I can press it down:
But it creeps back up.
I read a post that a high capacity battery, which is slightly larger, can force this to happen. Are you using the standard battery or a replacement high capacity one?
Standard battery.
I even tried keeping the screen and case clamped together over night. (very carefully obviously!)
It stayed normal slightly longer than when you just press it, but did still rise back up.
Got the exact same problem, also never dropped, and tried the exact same solution.
It's not that the case is bent, so it must be the screen flexing and lifting from the band of adhesive that holds it in. My worry is that it will get worse. I can even insert a slip of paper between the frame and the screen on one side, for about a quarter of the length on the right hand side towards the bottom (so 5 O clock if it was a clock face.) But the actual corner I can't get a slip of paper under, so the problem on mine is more the latter part of the lower side of the screen on the right.
I'm often tempted to lift it more and try to put in a tiny blob of glue or to try to smuggle glue in using a bit of paper as a delivery method, but my fear is a) smears and b) that releasing the screen any more than is necessary in order to get glue in will cause the adhesive to fail more - and the glue might not work anyways. Superglue is a no-no by the way, it'd be more something like UHU or Bostik.
But if it gets worse... Let me know if you're brave enough to try.
PS
I've not contacted HTC to ask for a swap - this phone is a swap and I just don't fancy the rigmarole again. But you might ask them.
I have seen other thread on XDA with other devices that have done this.
I mean the buttons and everything works perfectly, seems daft to send it back for this, but then it IS a fault.
I did wonder if it was a heat issue? I have noticed that when you play a game on it for a while, holding it it does get warm...does this make the adhesive soft and flex??
One possible thing that makes the glue not so strong is high temperature. I have 2 Sensations before Desire S, and i was disapointed from that phone because of the poor glue quality on the display. In the first one i have dust under digitizer and display and the second one have the same problem as your Desire S. The only way to fix this is to open the phone, remove the digitizer with display (without separate them), buy 2mm 3M Sticker and put new sticker on the places that are not fitting good. It is not so hard but if you want to do that you need to be VERU CAREFUL with the display because it's very thin and you can broke it. On Youtube you can find few dissembling video for desire s. Good luck!!
The science of expansion and contraction? You can try leaving it in your refrigerator awhile and see what happens
Sent from my HTC Desire S using xda premium
I have this problem, and still do have this problem. It used to really urk me off at first, but I've since learn to live with it unfortunately.
The right side of the bottom of the display is worse than the left side, but the left side has a 0.2mm gap between the screen and the casing, right where the USB port is (only visible when the battery cover is removed and light is shining through the back) (I also believe the creaking case comes from near this area).
Once again, it used to frustrate me to all hell seeing it, but I've learned to live with it.
zeekiz said:
I have this problem, and still do have this problem. It used to really urk me off at first, but I've since learn to live with it unfortunately.
The right side of the bottom of the display is worse than the left side, but the left side has a 0.2mm gap between the screen and the casing, right where the USB port is (only visible when the battery cover is removed and light is shining through the back) (I also believe the creaking case comes from near this area).
Once again, it used to frustrate me to all hell seeing it, but I've learned to live with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are all making me tempted to get the UHU out
Mine is the same.
But i have noticed it since it came out from the box...
Thankfully I've not experienced this problem, but I will throw a couple of ideas into the pot for interest:
(1) If I remember correctly, applying heat is part of the official method for removing the glass screen from the body during the repair process. This suggests that the DS may be much more vulnerable when hot.
(2) Don't even think of using superglue (cyanoacrylate) for glueing the glass back. This stuff seems to have a volatile component that can mist up displays or windows some distance away (as I previously discovered to my cost on another project).
I also suffer from this symptom, and have done out of the box. I've noticed that if you rub from the body onto the glass on the top of the phone it's flush, whereas on the bottom there is a definite rise on the glass. I can also push the glass down on the bottom corners. But they always rise up again instantly. I'd be surprised if this wasn't the case with every desire s.
Sent from my HTC Desire S using XDA App
Had the same issue since day one, in April, only that with me it was the lower right corner, not as dramatic as the one in the picture though. Also had a gap between the screen gasket and the body of the frame (one could stick a thick sheet of paper through);
I sent the phone to the warranty center and got it back a few days later with a crappy statement that the manufactury/ assembly issues i reported are not considered faults...
So i sealed the gap with fine black silicone paste (just a tricle) and learned to live with the risen screen corner.
After discovering the faults with my phone I checked with other handsets at every dealer I came across and guess what? about 1/3 of the terminals examined with my now "expert" eye have one or several of the issues mentioned in this thread.
I think the phone was rushed into production and somebody screwed big time in the Quality Control department before it was released for mass production.
So you can complain to the HTC call-center and try to have the handset replaced. If you get a replacement, so much the better. Good luck!
Interesting to hear so many people suffering from it.
May just learn to live with it as it does sound like a common fault, and sending it back may be a waste of time!
The issue for me is if it gets worse as I know it wasn't there originally (having read a post about it and checked my phone carefully.) Four months later....
Part of me doesn't want the faff of sending it back...
Sent from my HTC Desire S using xda premium
Ok so I am not alone on this. Had the same issue but not to the extent in the pics attached, mine was a little loose on the bottom right corner, if pressed made a creaking/squeaking sound, if kept pressed for a few seconds, would get fixed for a few hours.
How I inadvertently fixed it is by forgetting my phone in direct sunlight for a good 30-40 mins, must have been 35-40 Celsius out around 2 PM. When I remembered and retrieved my phone from my terrace it was considerably hot, just turned it on to check if the phone was alright, must have pressed down due to force of habit but I think the glue stuck for good that time.
Never squeaked since then.
By no means is this a way to fix your phone but it worked for me by chance.
Edit:
Damn HTC for their shabby build quality.
So what happens if I apply a hairdryer to the screen? Good idea, bad idea?
al89nut said:
So what happens if I apply a hairdryer to the screen? Good idea, bad idea?
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Click to collapse
Don't think it's a good idea. Try getting HTC to do something about it, if they could take it off and reapply the screen with the required adhesive.
Earlier today I left it by my laptop fan and it got very hot, held the screen down after and it did stick back for longer, but did creep up again... luckily the heat didn't damage my done I may email o2 as there support is better than htc's! They replaced my screen in my old HD2 last year no problems.
Sent from my HTC Desire S using xda premium
Hi you my friends. This is my first post in this forum,
and I've reading you since 2011, tweaking roming etc. So it's my time to contribute. I develop myself a few abilities related to hardware modifications, in old consoles,phones and PC's which gives to me a sense of "ausence of fear" when I begin a new work, so, this is my contribution for the problem of overheating from this phone
After opening the rear case, and extracting all the screws with the screwdriver you only have to detach first the speaker black down zone with your nails (don't worry if you haven't got) and the upper black plastic cover, which shows to us all the motherboard and all from this phone. The idea is very simple.
LG does not seem to place a proper passive cooling system which is in the Lumia 950XL or thermal paste on the Snap 810 2.1 Nexus 6P, INSTEAD, they put a simple insulating rubber between the Processor and the screen, which turns it into a doom, a true hot hell.
If you do the simple mod i'm going to describe, you will never hurt your hands from touching the screen caused by the heat.
1: detach all the cables from the motherboard, or only the two cameras (with your nail)
2: see the processor in the reverse of the motherboard touching the screen and extract this ****ing insulating rubber with your nails and instead of it, put foil paper and around the area to make a full working cooling system. Close the phone and enjoy.
The things I notice is when i am web browsing the phone is at 100% of the brightness and does not overheat. And when i turn it on the phone does not overheat also. Which is good. Maybe this little trick will help you to don't lose or "burn" your phone and have it like a brick.
Easyness: 4.5/5
Time: 5/5
Effectivity: 4/5
HiramAbiff said:
Hi you my friends. This is my first post in this forum,
and I've reading you since 2011, tweaking roming etc. So it's my time to contribute. I develop myself a few abilities related to hardware modifications, in old consoles,phones and PC's which gives to me a sense of "ausence of fear" when I begin a new work, so, this is my contribution for the problem of overheating from this phone
After opening the rear case, and extracting all the screws with the screwdriver you only have to detach first the speaker black down zone with your nails (don't worry if you haven't got) and the upper black plastic cover, which shows to us all the motherboard and all from this phone. The idea is very simple.
LG does not seem to place a proper passive cooling system which is in the Lumia 950XL or thermal paste on the Snap 810 2.1 Nexus 6P, INSTEAD, they put a simple insulating rubber between the Processor and the screen, which turns it into a doom, a true hot hell.
If you do the simple mod i'm going to describe, you will never hurt your hands from touching the screen caused by the heat.
1: detach all the cables from the motherboard, or only the two cameras (with your nail)
2: see the processor in the reverse of the motherboard touching the screen and extract this ****ing insulating rubber with your nails and instead of it, put foil paper and around the area to make a full working cooling system. Close the phone and enjoy.
The things I notice is when i am web browsing the phone is at 100% of the brightness and does not overheat. And when i turn it on the phone does not overheat also. Which is good. Maybe this little trick will help you to don't lose or "burn" your phone and have it like a brick.
Easyness: 4.5/5
Time: 5/5
Effectivity: 4/5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what
There is a thread somewhere with someone doing this with a small sheet of copper instead of foil. They also reported an improvement in heat and performance.
Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk
danslb said:
There is a thread somewhere with someone doing this with a small sheet of copper instead of foil. They also reported an improvement in heat and performance.
Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's nice. It's good to see that with easy tools you can fix the main problem of the phone. With only a screwdriver and foil the results are very, very good. I'm a bit proud of that, that i can play the top 10 gameloft games without any kind of slow down or shuttering.
Thanks for the info :good:
I would strongly advise against doing this cooling mod. The "insulating rubber" the OP is talking about is actually a thermal pad, which facilitates thermal transfer between the CPU package and the metal frame inside the phone (same function as thermal paste between a heatsink and CPU) . By removing it and replacing it with foil, it is breaking thermal contact with the metal frame. Yes, the phone doesn't feel as hot, but that is because the heat is no longer conducted to and dissipated by the metal frame, and the heat is trapped in the CPU and motherboard. Though the phone has lower surface temperatures, the trapped heat is unhealthy for the device in the long term and causes more throttling, as well as risking damage to the internal components (especially the battery).
As such, a viable thermal mod would be to replace the stock thermal pad with a high quality 1mm thermal pad (such as the Fujipoly 17 W/mk ones, can be found on Amazon for around $10~20) as well as placing 0.5mm thermal pads on the metal shield around the CPU. I may be putting up pictures of this in a separate post if I have the time.
To the OP, I recommend you replace the foil with a high quality thermal pad, before the excessive heat burns up your device
Cheers!
Hello, this would be like my first big post here on xda :3
==Materials==
-> Thermal paste
-> Tools
-> Thermal pad copper 0.3mm thick
-> Thermal pad 0.5mm thick
-> Copper plate 1mm thick (optional)*
-> Isopropyl alcohol
-> Fine sandpaper
-> Copper tape
-> Kapton tape
***** Cpu throttle results on end of post *****
***Last update https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/thermal-pad-copper-mod-for-poco-x3-pro.4479421/post-88354655 ***
===Idea===
Based on other mods the idea is to fill the space between the cpu and the heatsink, when i opened my phone i realized the space that existed, here we will remove the copper only from the cpu and memory area, we will also replace the thermal pad. Remember to use isopropyl alcohol to clean the cpu and memory surfaces.
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The copper pad must be 0.3mm thick and make a cut as in the photo,apply thermal paste between cpu and pad, forget to take photos of the memory pad, but once clean, cut out a small square and glue it, then put copper tape on top.
Apply a little thermal paste, not too much as it will spread when pressed. Clean the heatsink with isopropyl alcohol, lightly scrape the marked areas (optional)* and clean again to remove residue.
Assemble the phone carefully and press the plate slightly until everything fits.
==================================================
After months i do not recommend putting copper or a thermal pad on the battery, since the battery are on top of the heatpipe and will absorb the heat, putting thermal mass on top will cause it to accumulate more in the battery, i will update about it soon
=====Results=======
i think it's worth it, it's down -10c degrees aprox.
About the battery: i use a 5v 2a charger, but i used the original charger to see what the temperature is, from what i could see the temperature rises but only up to 36c° (due to the fast charge of course)
without charging the temperature doesnt rise 31C ° during the tests i did.
I'm not a fan of antutu but here it is, i use crdroid 8.7 without mods, the idea of this is to see that the temperatures are maintained, not the score in general.
idle temps
I hope the post is understandable, thanks for reading ^^
Really cool! I was just looking for something like this yesterday.
Is the .5mm pad for the memory, if so, could you explain where did you put it on?
Also, when you say '"glue it", what is acting as glue exactly?
palopaxo said:
Really cool! I was just looking for something like this yesterday.
Is the .5mm pad for the memory, if so, could you explain where did you put it on?
Also, when you say '"glue it", what is acting as glue exactly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the 0.5mm thermal pad is for memory, when i open the phone it already has a thermal pad but i preferred to replace it anyway.
the thermal pad is a bit sticky, cut a piece to fit the hole and put copper tape on top to, in addition to holding it, give it thermal conductivity
cut out with this shape, the heating pad I used was light blue
the memory just need thermal pad and copper tape on top, the cpu needs thermal paste + cooper pad 0.3mm and thermal paste again, dont put copper tape on the cpu, already have the copper pad so you don't need the tape there
Na de locos, thx you so much
This guy knows his stuff! Thanks man, I will try to combine this mod with the battery upgrade(from BN57 to BN61)!
Thanks for your Tutorial! You helped me a Lot doin it on my Mi 10t pro
Any video tutorial for this?
Kuato said:
Any video tutorial for this?
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Click to collapse
Hi, sorry for the late reply. I do not have a video and it is possible that i will not remove the board again until next year, since it currently works perfectly for me, a detail if my battery heats up in the summer (about 35ºC) so soon i plan to extend it a little more the heatpipe in addition to insulating the battery from the heatpipe (with aerogel if i get it), since the heat from the cpu usually heats it up quickly (in winter it did not happen of course)
I can only tell you that after performing the mod the screen heats up, which is a symptom that the cpu is in contact with the heatpipe and is in turn with the screen (cpu -> heatpipe -> grapite sheet back on screen -> screen) so the heat is dissipating correctly
Tsuragi said:
Hi, sorry for the late reply. I do not have a video and it is possible that i will not remove the board again until next year, since it currently works perfectly for me, a detail if my battery heats up in the summer (about 35ºC) so soon i plan to extend it a little more the heatpipe in addition to insulating the battery from the heatpipe (with aerogel if i get it), since the heat from the cpu usually heats it up quickly (in winter it did not happen of course)
I can only tell you that after performing the mod the screen heats up, which is a symptom that the cpu is in contact with the heatpipe and is in turn with the screen (cpu -> heatpipe -> grapite sheet back on screen -> screen) so the heat is dissipating correctly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try tomorrow. I bought copper plate 15x15mm 0.3mm thick. Is that size is correct?
Kuato said:
I'll try tomorrow. I bought copper plate 15x15mm 0.3mm thick. Is that size is correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just add copper plate on CPU and overall CPU temperature just drop around 3-4°C Lower than usual. Also the screen seems warmer while playing a games. but somehow it cool down faster than before. I might tried to add copper plate on back cover later. Thanks @Tsuragi
I tried this mod since november 3rd . it's help the thermal coductivity more effectively .still reaching the 81c but no throttling happen and the phone is warm because of faster heat transfer. I tried the .5mm but it's pressing the back of lcd change back to .3mm and I use ctg9 13.5w/mk and ap12 thermal pad 14.8w/mk . better than re paste only.I meeasure the cpu socket is 14.5mm in length . memory depth is 0 .7 mm. pmic depth 0.8 mm . so it's better to use the 1mm thermal pad with good thermal conductivity . I'm living here in philippines. so far so good. best thermal mod ever for x3 pro sd860.
Thanks @Tsuragi
Before and after.
EXTRA: adding the copper pad can prevent the death issue, most initial failures seem to be related to a bad connection between the CPU and the motherboard (display issues for example), bridging the gap between the CPU and the heat pipe might help as we prevent this from separating from the dash.
The temps are better dissipated by having more thermal mass, but the heat will not go away. using the thermal pad ends up heating the battery a little more, the 0.3 mm cooper pad just fit good for me.
Regarding the battery, it should not get too hot from use, due to fast charging of course (with 5V 2A charger the temps dont up). my package has not yet arrived with the heatpipes and the aerogel that I ordered, in the meantime I have tried this. (Sorry the bad quality images)
I currently have it as in the photo and with a cover, I have space so I could add a heatpipe in the area and keep it with the cover forever.
In addition to replacing the copper there, I added kapton tape on top of the pmic (?) Maybe a thermal pad would have been better but I didn't want to risk it, I notice that this area gets hot since the cpu is on the other side. The interesting thing is that by adding another heatpipe the battery heats up less.
***that means the internal heatpipe gets less hot since the heat is distributed in both heatpipes***
My current problem is that the heat accumulates inside the mobile and ends up heating up the battery. As long as the heat does not come out of the phone, the time it takes to reach high temperatures will improve. Now based on what I've seen from the steam deck, i don't think it's profitable to add a fan to the mobile.
what can be improved is to isolate the battery from the body of the phone, avoiding the heat of the heatpipe, my battery currently does not exceed 36 degrees even so i would prefer to be in a range of 20-30; on the cpu usually playing genshin for example 30 fps everything in low quality I am between 50-60 degrees, for me it is acceptable but the battery heats up due the hot heatpipe.
Regarding the CPU, the extra improvement that can be made would be to add more thermal mass to further extend the time it takes for the phone to heat up.
***maybe it will still get to 80c but it will take longer and probably the cpu will cool faster too****
Soon i will add that when i receive the packages and if it works i will update the post.
------------Note:-------------
The battery can be isolated, but to make space near the camera it is necessary to remove the nfc antenna, the bluetooth will continue to work but you lose the nfc, i never used it so I removed it.
**You have been warned**. maybe the antenna can be cut so that the nfc continues to work but I am not sure if it works
--------------------------------
Future upgrade example:
Update:
Insulating the battery with airgel was a bad idea, the heat accumulates more.
temporarily i try separate the battery from the phone by 2mm with tape , as a result it heats up slower and cools down slower, that's the detail.
i use genshin for test this every low 60fps (domains runs)
batt stock
batt tape mod
the battery stayed colder for longer, the little problem of course once at 35 degrees it stayed at that temperature the rest of the day
(summer here is 30-38c°).
i try fornite and well..
but the battery is fine and with ngk you can limit the cpu temps to 70 i try that and works
About adding more heatsink to the phone I'm still thinking about how to do it due add more things requires a custom case, i would have to make one but that would be the choice of each user. and still.. any thing can heat the battery if its close.
maybe maybe i can remplace the camera cover with metal add thermal paste on that, maybe scrape one of the edges of the frame to be able to add a copper sheet that makes direct contact with the cpu, so the heat would go out as well and any external cooler near the camera would do an excellent job if battery dont heats up of course.
Hello just do your mod.. I dont have any problem with my pocox3p.. But so insecure with the dead issue..
Here the pic
1.the execution
2. Compare x3p, redmi note 10 pro, mipad 4
3. Throtling test...
Have u try graphite sheet? I heard its better than coppee for the back cover.. Thx very much for this article..
The room temp is 26°c
Bruce.clark said:
Hello just do your mod.. I dont have any problem with my pocox3p.. But so insecure with the dead issue..
Here the pic
1.the execution
2. Compare x3p, redmi note 10 pro, mipad 4
3. Throtling test...
Have u try graphite sheet? I heard its better than coppee for the back cover.. Thx very much for this article..
The room temp is 26°c
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
bruh, copper plate to fat
I change the thermalpaste using cooler master cyrofuze which have 14w/mk, before i use grizzly aeronaut 8w/mk... And heres the throtling test.. The performance is better.. Also the temp room around 25°c..
this is perfect with a cooler, what do you guys think?
Hello again, after so long. This will be the last update of the post, my work doesn't give me too much time and time passes quickly, my little x3 pro has been alive since december 2021, great news.
I tried to record again but my laptop's camera is disgusting, there will only be photos, from the original post i finally made 2 modifications, separate the battery from the body with kapton tape and add a thermal pad to send the heat out.
==== separate the battery===
thats my laptop camera
join 4 layers of kapton tape and make strips, these will be glued between the body and the battery, avoiding the heat pipe, this will make room, the battery tends to get hot from the heat pipe.
===== adding a thermal pad =====
buy a thermal pad (i use thermal pad grizzly 1.0mm) and cut a shape like this, this will join the heat pipe to the top of the board, **remember to put the battery and slide it down a bit, so that there is space for the thermal pad**
with this, the battery will heat up less and the heat will tend to heat the protector of the phone.
==== This will only improve the temp of the battery, it can improve the temperature of the cpu a little ====
=== extra ===
this is more personal, you can sacrifice the nfc antenna to make a hole, fill with another strip of thermal pad and put another heat pipe (from aliexpress) on top, buy an aluminum protector, scratch and connect the thermal pad with the cover, this should greatly improve the use of coolers (like funcooler for example).
=====results=======
As the last update of the post, i did my tests without a cooler and with the funcooler 2 pro (intelligent profile, it can be better with extreme profile of course).(crdroid 7-ngk kernel- balance profile). **stock = with thermal mod without cooler**
Lately I've seen a lot posts of bricks but so far i haven't even had random reboots or any bugs. With the temp. monitor in fdroid you can make a record of all the sensors, the problems with the pmic are known, i suggest taking care of the temperature of the pmic if you have the mobile without modifications. Thank you all.
PART 1
Hello peeps.
I had also done a mod on my vayu and thanks to this thread I got motivation and ideas to do even more things to try to keep this thing cooler during gaming.
I don't have pic of the internals but I did the copper pad mod on the cpu and also added a 0.1mm copper sheet on the heat pipe under the battery covering all the area in an attempt to spread the heat on all the screen area plus add some more mass of copper ofc.
Used some strips of kapton tape on the copper sheet and between the battery to try to insulate the heat going to the battery. (Dunno if that really helps but I dont notice battery heat up more anyway)
I did a cut on the plastic cover of the nfc antenna like tsuragi did since I also don't care about nfc and I just added few layers of 0.3mm of copper on top of each other.
I would like to add a heat pipe like he did but can't find in my country and bored of ordering and waiting lol.
as we know this mod really helps with temps but on the rare occations that the cpu is on continuous load soon or later it's gonna hit high temps again. (By high temps I mean like 75c + that in my opinion is unacceptable)
I had to dissipate the heat somehow so this is what I did.
I did a cut on the back cover since I use the phone always with a case I don't really care of having a hole there.
I then added some thermal pad that is like mold and it's not the silicon one.
That way I can add another very thin sheet of copper to try to dissipate heat out of the phone somehow.
It really helps on daily usage using a case and since the copper is thin the case fits perfectly.
I know there is still the case covering the copper but it's better than nothing since finally the heat can somehow go outside of the phone.
Mostly saw improvement on the battery temps by 2c but still after long period of excessive loading was hitting high temps like 78c max in some rare occations.
PART 2
I bought this phone mostly for emulation and ofc as a daily driver smartphone.
I don't play gensin or cod but I play some mmorpg and moba that don't really heat up the smartphone at dangerous levels that in my opinion are like 75c plus.
The only game for some reason that used to heat up my x3 was the Colin McRae 3 on aethersx and it used to hit like 80c on cpu before making the copper mod.
The cpu throttle test app was showing 89% to 91% cpu throttling at 100threads.
After the copper mods I had max 78c on cpu on Colin McRae but took more time to get there,and 93% to 95% throttle freq on throttling cpu test app so it was improvement but wanted to try something more.
Since I had now an open "window" to that heat inside the smartphone
I wanted to find a way to dissipate the heat out somehow.
That's where the smartphone peltier cooler comes in.
These coolers are not just a fan that u attach to smartphone but they have a thermoelectric element inside that can get pretty cold using electricity.
So this is what I did.
I took another case and did a cut on it to add some 0.4mm copper sheet that will be touching the exposed copper on the cut on the phones back that I made and then get attached to the cooler in order to freeze it and help cool down the phone.