Database Info

Lifting Screen?

Anyone else have the problem of the screen lifting?
I have only had the phone a few weeks, never dropped it.
These pics will explain:
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Then I can press it down:
But it creeps back up.

I read a post that a high capacity battery, which is slightly larger, can force this to happen. Are you using the standard battery or a replacement high capacity one?

Standard battery.
I even tried keeping the screen and case clamped together over night. (very carefully obviously!)
It stayed normal slightly longer than when you just press it, but did still rise back up.

Got the exact same problem, also never dropped, and tried the exact same solution.
It's not that the case is bent, so it must be the screen flexing and lifting from the band of adhesive that holds it in. My worry is that it will get worse. I can even insert a slip of paper between the frame and the screen on one side, for about a quarter of the length on the right hand side towards the bottom (so 5 O clock if it was a clock face.) But the actual corner I can't get a slip of paper under, so the problem on mine is more the latter part of the lower side of the screen on the right.
I'm often tempted to lift it more and try to put in a tiny blob of glue or to try to smuggle glue in using a bit of paper as a delivery method, but my fear is a) smears and b) that releasing the screen any more than is necessary in order to get glue in will cause the adhesive to fail more - and the glue might not work anyways. Superglue is a no-no by the way, it'd be more something like UHU or Bostik.
But if it gets worse... Let me know if you're brave enough to try.
PS
I've not contacted HTC to ask for a swap - this phone is a swap and I just don't fancy the rigmarole again. But you might ask them.

I have seen other thread on XDA with other devices that have done this.
I mean the buttons and everything works perfectly, seems daft to send it back for this, but then it IS a fault.
I did wonder if it was a heat issue? I have noticed that when you play a game on it for a while, holding it it does get warm...does this make the adhesive soft and flex??

One possible thing that makes the glue not so strong is high temperature. I have 2 Sensations before Desire S, and i was disapointed from that phone because of the poor glue quality on the display. In the first one i have dust under digitizer and display and the second one have the same problem as your Desire S. The only way to fix this is to open the phone, remove the digitizer with display (without separate them), buy 2mm 3M Sticker and put new sticker on the places that are not fitting good. It is not so hard but if you want to do that you need to be VERU CAREFUL with the display because it's very thin and you can broke it. On Youtube you can find few dissembling video for desire s. Good luck!!

The science of expansion and contraction? You can try leaving it in your refrigerator awhile and see what happens
Sent from my HTC Desire S using xda premium

I have this problem, and still do have this problem. It used to really urk me off at first, but I've since learn to live with it unfortunately.
The right side of the bottom of the display is worse than the left side, but the left side has a 0.2mm gap between the screen and the casing, right where the USB port is (only visible when the battery cover is removed and light is shining through the back) (I also believe the creaking case comes from near this area).
Once again, it used to frustrate me to all hell seeing it, but I've learned to live with it.

zeekiz said:
I have this problem, and still do have this problem. It used to really urk me off at first, but I've since learn to live with it unfortunately.
The right side of the bottom of the display is worse than the left side, but the left side has a 0.2mm gap between the screen and the casing, right where the USB port is (only visible when the battery cover is removed and light is shining through the back) (I also believe the creaking case comes from near this area).
Once again, it used to frustrate me to all hell seeing it, but I've learned to live with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are all making me tempted to get the UHU out

Mine is the same.
But i have noticed it since it came out from the box...

Thankfully I've not experienced this problem, but I will throw a couple of ideas into the pot for interest:
(1) If I remember correctly, applying heat is part of the official method for removing the glass screen from the body during the repair process. This suggests that the DS may be much more vulnerable when hot.
(2) Don't even think of using superglue (cyanoacrylate) for glueing the glass back. This stuff seems to have a volatile component that can mist up displays or windows some distance away (as I previously discovered to my cost on another project).

I also suffer from this symptom, and have done out of the box. I've noticed that if you rub from the body onto the glass on the top of the phone it's flush, whereas on the bottom there is a definite rise on the glass. I can also push the glass down on the bottom corners. But they always rise up again instantly. I'd be surprised if this wasn't the case with every desire s.
Sent from my HTC Desire S using XDA App

Had the same issue since day one, in April, only that with me it was the lower right corner, not as dramatic as the one in the picture though. Also had a gap between the screen gasket and the body of the frame (one could stick a thick sheet of paper through);
I sent the phone to the warranty center and got it back a few days later with a crappy statement that the manufactury/ assembly issues i reported are not considered faults...
So i sealed the gap with fine black silicone paste (just a tricle) and learned to live with the risen screen corner.
After discovering the faults with my phone I checked with other handsets at every dealer I came across and guess what? about 1/3 of the terminals examined with my now "expert" eye have one or several of the issues mentioned in this thread.
I think the phone was rushed into production and somebody screwed big time in the Quality Control department before it was released for mass production.
So you can complain to the HTC call-center and try to have the handset replaced. If you get a replacement, so much the better. Good luck!

Interesting to hear so many people suffering from it.
May just learn to live with it as it does sound like a common fault, and sending it back may be a waste of time!

The issue for me is if it gets worse as I know it wasn't there originally (having read a post about it and checked my phone carefully.) Four months later....

Part of me doesn't want the faff of sending it back...
Sent from my HTC Desire S using xda premium

Ok so I am not alone on this. Had the same issue but not to the extent in the pics attached, mine was a little loose on the bottom right corner, if pressed made a creaking/squeaking sound, if kept pressed for a few seconds, would get fixed for a few hours.
How I inadvertently fixed it is by forgetting my phone in direct sunlight for a good 30-40 mins, must have been 35-40 Celsius out around 2 PM. When I remembered and retrieved my phone from my terrace it was considerably hot, just turned it on to check if the phone was alright, must have pressed down due to force of habit but I think the glue stuck for good that time.
Never squeaked since then.
By no means is this a way to fix your phone but it worked for me by chance.
Edit:
Damn HTC for their shabby build quality.

So what happens if I apply a hairdryer to the screen? Good idea, bad idea?

al89nut said:
So what happens if I apply a hairdryer to the screen? Good idea, bad idea?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't think it's a good idea. Try getting HTC to do something about it, if they could take it off and reapply the screen with the required adhesive.

Earlier today I left it by my laptop fan and it got very hot, held the screen down after and it did stick back for longer, but did creep up again... luckily the heat didn't damage my done I may email o2 as there support is better than htc's! They replaced my screen in my old HD2 last year no problems.
Sent from my HTC Desire S using xda premium

HTC MyTouch 4G Slide Take Apart Repair Guide

This take apart repair guide will show the method on how to quickly and safely open your MyTouch 4G Slide so you can install a replacement LCD screen and glass touchscreen digitizer.
This guide will help you replace the following parts:
HTC MyTouch 4G Slide Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
HTC MyTouch 4G Slide LCD Screen Replacement
And Other HTC MyTouch 4G Slide Repair Parts
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Torx T5 Screwdriver
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips (For Touch Screen Replacements)
Hot Air Gun / Hair Dryer
MyTouch 4G Slide Take Apart/Repair Guide:
Remove the battery back door has it cover simply using a safe open pry tool and slide all around the sides. Once it has been removed you need to remove the battery, micro sd card, and sim card from the phone.
Next, using a Torx 5 screwdriver, you need to remove four (4) screws - two on top and two on bottom.. Remove the two (2) screws in the middle of the phone using a small Phillip screwdriver.
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Figure 1​
Next using a safe open pry tool you will remove the little plastic housing on the bottom of the phone. Once removed you can now release the bezel around the sides of the phone using the safe open pry tool and simply just go around all the sides of the phone releasing the bezel clips safely.
Remove two (2) additional screws on a top left as well as one screw on the top right , the two (2) on the left or Torx 5 screws (located in red on Figure 2) and the one (1) screw on the right is a small Phillip screw (located in orange). With those screws are removed you can now release three flex cables along the sides of the phone that are holding with adhesive one being the power cable, the volume up down ribbon and the third one is in the other side of the phone and that one should be release as well. These are held in place with adhesive and simply need to be released from the housing.
Once those three cables are release you can now release one more flex cable on the right side of the motherboard using a safe open pry tool and pop it right off.
Figure 2​
Next you can now release the motherboard from the actual phone, go along the sides releasing the clips holding the motherboard in place (being very careful not to actually damage your motherboard). Underneath you motherboard is a flex cable from the keyboard which is under your phone. You would need to release the flex cable and pop it right off. You can now separate the motherboard from the LCD display housing.
Release the eight (8) Phillip head screws on the back of the keyboard housing. Once removed you can now separate the keyboard from the actual LCD display monitor (be careful as the keyboard is still holding with the flex cable so you would need to release the flex cable very careful as it is holding on two sides, there is also an adhesive on the black portion so you would need to pry it very slowly).
Figure 3​
Next, using a safe open pry tool you will need to release the silver frame around the side of the phone this cover up two screws that you would need to remove as well. Once the frame is release you can go ahead and remove the two screws on the top as well as the two screws on the bottom of the back panel.
Release the bezel frame from the back of the phone. You may want to use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm the adhesive a bit, as it can be a strong bond. Simply use your heat on a medium setting and move quickly around the edges for about 30-45 seconds.
Release the digitizer cable holding into the back of the phone, slowly pulled back the tape and release the jaw connector, pushing it with upward with the safe open pry tool and pop out the digitizer flex cable of your touch screen.
Using a hot hair heat gun heat up the front as well as a little bit of the back of your screen, this will loosen up the adhesive securing your LCD touch screen and display together.
Once adequate heat has been applied use a safe open pry tool and run along the sides of the touch screen glass (be very careful not to damage the LCD during the process as it is very delicate piece of equipment). Once it is complete you can go ahead and replace your touch screen glass or your LCD display monitor.
Figure 4​Now you will be able to replace any parts on your HTC MyTouch 4G Slide. Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.

Pictures of the process above:
ifixsmartphone teardown of the doubleshot.
More pictures:
Internal Pics! Thanks dillalade!
Thanks for posting this repair guide!!!
Added to the dev reference here:
Device Specs and Manuals under hardware specifications near the top of that post.

Here's a nice video of the phone teardown as well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9CG7QU36pg
Very detailed and easy to follow

We also have a details video too -http://www.repairsuniverse.com/htc-mytouch-4g-slide-screen-repair-take-apart.html

We found tearing apart the MyTouch 4G Slide using our downloadable written guide in correlation with our Mytouch 4G Slide video repair guide will make for a great and easy repair. Let us know what you think!

I wonder if I can use led screen or if there is any?
Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using CM9

crimedave1987 said:
I wonder if I can use led screen or if there is any?
Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using CM9
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can only use the original screens on this. You can't upgrade the screen. You can find the screen replacements here - HTC MyTouch 4G Slide Screen Replacements

[deleted]
[deleted. i felt the question wasn't appropriate here. sorry ]

So I've been having all kinds of issues with my beat up device, when I went to get to the LCD and digitizer......the LCD literally fell out of the phone in 4 pieces wow right, would be reason for some issues but thanks for the guide
Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using Tapatalk 2

strapped365 said:
So I've been having all kinds of issues with my beat up device, when I went to get to the LCD and digitizer......the LCD literally fell out of the phone in 4 pieces wow right, would be reason for some issues but thanks for the guide
Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That poor Frankenstein phone of yours Hopefully, you can piece something together.

Fuzi0719 said:
That poor Frankenstein phone of yours Hopefully, you can piece something together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its all good now thanks to jkilo. The device he sent me should arrive soon so I gave my mobo to cybot for his bricked device, the digitizer had hardly any adhesive holding it on along with all the other parts that were supposed to so I'm guessing this isn't the first time its been apart ( no void sticker either )
Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using Tapatalk 2

I dropped my phone yesterday and cracked the digitizer. I have a "spare" MT4GS I picked up that I thought was soft bricked. I tried swapping the mainboards but the spare LCD appeared to be shot. Then I pulled the phones completely apart and found that the spare digitizer was also shot. Great....
Parts are on order.

Warning! Easy to damage LCD
That step of removing the bezel frame from behind the LCD? Yeah, I ruined my screen doing that. As I gather have a bunch of other people. The problem is that there's so much adhesive, and on an older phone it gets really stiff, such that even if you heat it up quite a bit it's really easy to accidentally pull apart/bend/otherwise ruin the LCD trying to get that bezel off. My suggestion: don't do this yourself. Have a professional repair it or just get a new phone

Blue6IX said:
Pictures of the process above:
ifixsmartphone teardown of the doubleshot.
More pictures:
Internal Pics! Thanks dillalade!
Thanks for posting this repair guide!!!
Added to the dev reference here:
Device Specs and Manuals under hardware specifications near the top of that post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're most welcome! Glad we could help!

Keyboard slide-out sensor?
I've been searching all over this forum and google regarding a hardware related problem I've been having. Although my problem isn't specifically related to the original post, I figured this thread might be the best place to ask, since my issue will involve disassembling my phone and locating a specific component.
This problem started 2 days ago during normal use (didn't drop it or get it wet):
Whenever my keyboard is closed, the screen works in portrait mode just fine. But after starting to slide out the keyboard, the screen freezes in portrait view and doesn't respond. Then if I slide the keyboard back in, the screen unfreezes and is working as if nothing happened.
If my screen is in standby and I open the keyboard, my screen does that multi-color pixelated thing where it almost looks grey, and then I close it and the screen is fine once again. (I know, it's most likely a loose connection)
**One factor worth noting is that the screen doesn't simply freeze/unfreeze at just any random point when sliding out the keyboard. Anyone who uses this phone knows how the keyboard kinda snaps open and snaps shut. After testing this problem countless times, I've noticed that the screen freezes EXACTLY after unsnapping the slide, stays frozen no matter how far I open the keyboard and finally only unfreezes exactly after the keyboard is snapped shut again. This is a very small and specific area, and this never changes.
So, the first logical conclusion I'd made was that the keyboard slide-mechanism had caused one of the screen ribbons to come loose whenever it slides out. But after thinking about how specific it was that this problem only happens within that tiny margin (snap/unsnap) and nowhere else, I'm starting to think it may not be one of those ribbons afterall.
And now I'm starting to wonder, what internal sensor/switch is responsible for telling the screen to switch to landscape once the keyboard is open?
I've watched quite a few youtube how-to videos, studied diagrams & close-ups up internal parts, but all I've seen so far are stationary-connections. There are so many different ways to design these tiny things that it helps to have an idea what I'm looking for.
So does anyone know exactly where this slide sensor/switch is, and what it looks like?
(I always prefer to research thoroughly & redundantly before attempting risky endeavors)
Thanks in advance.

Off hand I would say there is a small magnet, I know there is in other HTC phones and although I have opened my doubleshot many times I can't recall one, but I'm fairly certain there would be.
But I'm thinking you need the main flex cable
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

demkantor said:
Off hand I would say there is a small magnet, I know there is in other HTC phones and although I have opened my doubleshot many times I can't recall one, but I'm fairly certain there would be.
But I'm thinking you need the main flex cable
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright, I wasn't sure. I wanted to consider any other possibilities and what to look for. And I'm quite possibly over-thinking this, but it seems like whenever I go in assuming I'll figure it out, I end up making things worse...
(...Like the time I tried to reflow the CPU on an Xbox motherboard; lets just say I'm never trying that again)
Thanks

My Doubleshot of 2 years just got this problem about a month ago. Whenever I slide out the screen goes black... but not right away! it takes it about 1 second before it goes black. Also when the error was just developing (for about 1 or 2 days) the screen would turn black when slid out, but then if the screen was turned off and back on it would work perfectly! Clearly this wasn't just a simple torn flex cable...
Sorry I can't be more help... but there's definitely something else failing in our phones!

Ziida said:
My Doubleshot of 2 years just got this problem about a month ago. Whenever I slide out the screen goes black... but not right away! it takes it about 1 second before it goes black. Also when the error was just developing (for about 1 or 2 days) the screen would turn black when slid out, but then if the screen was turned off and back on it would work perfectly! Clearly this wasn't just a simple torn flex cable...
Sorry I can't be more help... but there's definitely something else failing in our phones!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, it kinda would seem that something (not sure what) is sending a 'Standby' signal to your screen instead of the 'Landscape' signal; like a strange glitch between the power button and the slide-out sensor, crossed signals or something. But who knows, especially if the device is rooted (mine is, but my biggest problems are hardware related); I've had custom ROMs in the past that, over time, would develop a sort of 'hiccup' and cause certain common functions to misbehave. My point was, your issue could be either software or hardware related and without 1st-hand experience I can't say.
Mine is most likely hardware related because there were no recent software changes, and this just happened between text conversations; about 2 mins apart. Now it seems to be a condition that needs to be physically repaired and I really don't want to.... I kinda want to go all "Ol' Yeller" on the poor bastard and introduce it to my Walther P99. Nah, I couldn't do that.
F**kin phones. Hate em, can't live without em.

Mine's not software. I've flashed other ROMs and it even happens to the boot screen / recovery. I think HTC wanted $100 to repair it, too
ALMOST feels like a case of "planned obsolescence" except it doesn't seem to be happening to many people.

HTC Windows Phone 8X Screen Repair Take Apart Guide

The RepairsUniverse team has put together a take apart repair guide for replacing various parts on your Windows Phone HTC 8X. In this guide you will learn the steps to properly take your HTC smartphone apart safely. Repair nearly any internal component on your Windows Phone HTC 8X using this detailed repair guide.
This guide will help you to install the following Windows Phone HTC 8X part(s):
HTC Windows Phone 8X Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
HTC Windows Phone 8X LCD Replacement
Tools required:
Safe open pry tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Adhesive strips
Windows Phone HTC 8X Screen Repair Guide:
You want to begin by applying heat to around the surface edges of the device for about 15-20 seconds on each side. You can use a hot blow dryer or a heat gun.
Next you will need to use the safe open pry tool and begin separating the screen assembly from the frame of the device as shown below.
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Once you have properly separated the front of the phone from the device you will need to disconnect 3 Flex ribbon connections that are holding the device together.
After these connections have been released the front screen assembly can be removed from the back housing frame of the device.
Next you will need to turn the screen assembly (screen facing down) with the mother board facing you.
Using a small Phillips screw driver, you can begin removing 12 screws from around the edges of the screen assembly.
Once these screws have been removed you can begin disconnecting the Flex ribbon cables and Antenna flex cables (5 total).
The LCD and the Touch screen digitizer are held in by a jaw connector that can be lifted to release the ribbon.
The two antenna flex cables can simply be pulled out and the Key pad flex cable is a pop connection that can be released using a safe open pry tool.
You can now remove the motherboard.
Once the motherboard has been removed you can remove the upper back frame.
Now that the back housing and mother board have been removed, you can release the second connections of the antenna flex cables.
There are 2 small flex ribbons that will need to be released on the left and right side on top of the green mainboard.
Next you want to move the vibrating motor (next to the camera) out of the way so you can remove the upper mainboard.
Next step is to remove the ear jack and ear piece speaker.
You can now remove the battery and once you have done so you will have one more antenna cable to release and remove.
Last step is to remove the charging connector and the home button from the upper part of the device.
You can now replace the damaged screen for the Windows Phone HTC 8X.
Notice:
Repairs Universe's guides are for*informational purposes only.

Super informative
Very informative guide. Thanks a lot.
Under required tools, adhesive strips are listed. What kind of adhesive is needed? Size of strip? & where should the adhesive be applied?
Know you have my thanks.

I have dne it
Hey,
I have completly teared down my 8X to fix the broken glass. Changed LCD+Glass Combo.
Worked for almost one day. now it just wont start up again :/
It vibrates by pressing power button

b14ckroses said:
Hey,
I have completly teared down my 8X to fix the broken glass. Changed LCD+Glass Combo.
Worked for almost one day. now it just wont start up again :/
It vibrates by pressing power button
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was your battery low ? I've had pretty much the same problems - it turned out that the stock cable that cable with the phone was rubbish and the phone didn't charge up properly - the solution I came with was using a Nokia micro-usb cable - leave the phone to charge for 45-60 minutes and then try to turn it on if it doesn't do that automatically.

Hi. Can someone make motherboard pictures? I replaced screen but I lost idea how to connect coaxial cables.( got picture but i lost it)
Phone awaiting for being assembled to housing but I want avoid mistakes and tear it down again( hard job)
Or you know how to connect them maybe?

robdevil said:
Hi. Can someone make motherboard pictures? I replaced screen but I lost idea how to connect coaxial cables.( got picture but i lost it)
Phone awaiting for being assembled to housing but I want avoid mistakes and tear it down again( hard job)
Or you know how to connect them maybe?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, the attached picture is acurate. You appear to be missing the cage which secures the camera and boards in place. The 8x is designed with stacks. One board sits on top another, connected by two ribbons. Then those the lower charging board which is laid atop the lower portion of the device rests inside the back housing. It's really not complicated.
As you say, it's just very hard. Also the back housing is very tough to get flush. I advise using a case to minimize the slight elevation from digitizer to housing.
The long coax needs to be tucked underneath the ribbon and behind the gray prongs. The long coax should be nesting right alongside the length of the battery. This phone is a huge pain to fix. You should know that by now.

Any luck adding Wireless charging using this guide?

Or "bigger" battery ?

Origin of replacement difitizers and where to get replacement adhesive
Unfortunately, I am also amongst the unfortunate ones who have their 8X screen broken.
I decided to so a DIY repair, because I had success at doing such DIY replacements in the past on my previous HTC phone's. I am aware that it is quite difficult to work on the 8x though.
What I am concerned about is the quality of replacement parts. Where do these eBay suppliers get the replacement parts from anyway? I'm expecting to find a genuine, HTC manufactured lcd+digitizer combo with real Gorilla glass and same LCD panel, but heard that a lot of these replacements, even though sellers claim them to be genuine, are in fact inferior to the original parts, which really worries me. One of the sellers explained to me: "it is HTC manufactured OEM , but not with real gorilla glass" and then added "I am sorry, the supplier tell me the glass is not real gorilla. so I reply to you". There's no way I'm going to buy such a fake part.. Another seller, when asked, described his item: "Hi, this item is oem product make for HTC 8x. and used the original Material to assembly this item as the HTC product. of course i will test the item first and only the item work in good conditons then i will send it to my customer. Thank you!", but it still worries me - I'm not too confident the seller actually knows what OEM stands for.
Any ideas on this?
Also, as a side question, I was wondering, where do you get the replacement glue from? I heard they come in some strips.

so I got the mainboard out of the case, but I ripped a cable. I have attached a couple pics. could someone please tell me what ribbon I ripped and what I can do about it? or is it a loss? thanks. I attached two pics.

Hi guys!
I've just bought for cheap a HTC 8x. I've got it from a guy which tried to replace shattered glass ...no surprise LCD got also damaged during that.
So.
Now I'm sitting her with a disassembled phone and brand new digitizer and wondering - shall I keep it cheap and get just a new LCD or is I safer to go for preassembled set of LCD&digitizer? Is it difficult to put it together (is any glue necessary and, if yes, where it has to be placed) or its more like putting two LEGO blocks together?

mc_gee said:
Hi guys!
I've just bought for cheap a HTC 8x. I've got it from a guy which tried to replace shattered glass ...no surprise LCD got also damaged during that.
So.
Now I'm sitting her with a disassembled phone and brand new digitizer and wondering - shall I keep it cheap and get just a new LCD or is I safer to go for preassembled set of LCD&digitizer? Is it difficult to put it together (is any glue necessary and, if yes, where it has to be placed) or its more like putting two LEGO blocks together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your best option is to use the LCD + Touch Screen Digitizer Assembly. You repair will go much smoother. If you were to try the other route you would have to use adhesive to attach the LCD to the Touch screen. Those with experience can do this quite well i'm sure. The only issues with it could be dust or possibly not having a flush fit after re-assembly.

I have been repairing phones for nearly 20 years. I have my own small one man shop and have litterally opened thousands of phones. This has got to be one of the worst I have ever opened. What a piece of crap design; HTC should be embarrassed. Of course most users don't know this, because they only buy for the look and functions, but this phone should be avoided at all costs. Taking the back off without breaking it is a challenge for most. But separating the LCD/Dig. assembly from the b frame is one of the hardest ever. Once again, HTC feels they need to put far too much adhesive on their phones. Nuclear war would not separate these parts. And for Repairs Universe(Who I respect alot) to suggest the digitizer can be separated from the LCD when it is fuzed, is a joke, and borderline negligent.
I never like to go above 65 degrees centigrade(150 F) on my scientific hotplate, but for this i had to turn it up to 72, and it still took me forever with alot of reheats.
My best advice is to never get this phone, or work on it. It's a customer problem waiting to happen. However, if you do, try and find it with the b-frame attached...at least then you only have to worry about the absurd battery/back cover...what a POS!
---------- Post added at 02:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:36 PM ----------
lokeycmos said:
so I got the mainboard out of the case, but I ripped a cable. I have attached a couple pics. could someone please tell me what ribbon I ripped and what I can do about it? or is it a loss? thanks. I attached two pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See you posted this awhile ago, so this may not help you anymore. You pulled the charge port PCB up with the MoBo and LCD/Dig assembly. In taking apart this phone, the entire charge port board(PCB) stays down and does NOT come up with the original lift.
A few other tips. Do NOT use the old adhessive as some yahoo on youtube suggested. This is that black spongey adhesive HTC uses on a lot of phones and it ALWAYS needs to be completely removed if you don't want the Digitizer to float. Use manification(Microscope or desk magnifier), tand carefuly remove every molecule. Then wash with a solvent like windex or some I-alcohol. Use a qtip and maybe a soft tooth brush to remove the rest. Then carefully cut your new adhesive strips careful to not cover what was not covered before(Proximity chip, camera, etc.). Also, remove the shiny balck tape from around the edges after you remove the LCD. Smooth out where the LCD fits if some of the old adhesive became bunched when removing the LCD. The more prep you do, the less float and heartache you'll have later on.
I'll add more if I come up with anything significant as I put this POS back together...

After careful consideration, don't effing bother with this POS. If ya think it's hard to take apart, wait til ya gotta put it back in that ridiculously engineered back. From the volume rocker housing to the top corners, it was incredibly hard; and i have alot of experience. There's gotta be a trick I'm missing; but I dont miss many. I tried warming the back, spunger shim, really thin guitar pick shim(My own trick that has always gotten me out of a lot of tight housing problems), Bottom in 1st, side in first, top in first, but nothing got a nice tight seal. Best I could manage is left sound gapped and down volume wont work. This phone should be considered disposable if it wasnt so expensive. I Can only hope this is not the wave of the future for HTC and other EM's, or I'll be looking for a new profession after 20 years..

peakcelln said:
After careful consideration, don't effing bother with this POS. If ya think it's hard to take apart, wait til ya gotta put it back in that ridiculously engineered back. From the volume rocker housing to the top corners, it was incredibly hard; and i have alot of experience. There's gotta be a trick I'm missing; but I dont miss many. I tried warming the back, spunger shim, really thin guitar pick shim(My own trick that has always gotten me out of a lot of tight housing problems), Bottom in 1st, side in first, top in first, but nothing got a nice tight seal. Best I could manage is left sound gapped and down volume wont work. This phone should be considered disposable if it wasnt so expensive. I Can only hope this is not the wave of the future for HTC and other EM's, or I'll be looking for a new profession after 20 years..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Crap.
After replacing the screen and putting it back together, I'm facing exactly the same problem. It almost as if you have to use your brand new screen as a lever to let the back cover clips jump in.. what I obviously do not want to try. Have you found a solution in the mean time?
Thank you in advance,
Erwin

A bit of OT, but I don't think that it would be good idea to make separate topic for that
As I have my 8x allready disassembled (and I have to wait until few parts comes from china anyway) I'm wondering is it possible to swap rear camera module with one from Lumia 920? Any chance that it will fit and eventually work? I do realize that there's a different kind of connector in L920, but maybe contacts layout is the same on ribbon and I could just cut connector off?
Any chance?

I highly doubt it, but if you have any luck please post!

mc_gee said:
A bit of OT, but I don't think that it would be good idea to make separate topic for that
As I have my 8x allready disassembled (and I have to wait until few parts comes from china anyway) I'm wondering is it possible to swap rear camera module with one from Lumia 920? Any chance that it will fit and eventually work? I do realize that there's a different kind of connector in L920, but maybe contacts layout is the same on ribbon and I could just cut connector off?
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Two different EM's With different Camera's, Modules, Sensors, etc.? I wouldnt do it either, could short your board...
---------- Post added at 05:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 PM ----------
ErwinP said:
Crap.
After replacing the screen and putting it back together, I'm facing exactly the same problem. It almost as if you have to use your brand new screen as a lever to let the back cover clips jump in.. what I obviously do not want to try. Have you found a solution in the mean time?
Thank you in advance,
Erwin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never did figure it out. I gave the customer a discount and vowed never to touch the phone again. Terrible design, way worse than the Inspire; and that one was pretty bad.

peakcelln said:
Two different EM's With different Camera's, Modules, Sensors, etc.? I wouldnt do it either, could short your board...
---------- Post added at 05:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 PM ----------
I never did figure it out. I gave the customer a discount and vowed never to touch the phone again. Terrible design, way worse than the Inspire; and that one was pretty bad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for clarifying mc_gee's question about the camera swap.

peakcelln said:
Two different EM's With different Camera's, Modules, Sensors, etc.? I wouldnt do it either, could short your board...
---------- Post added at 05:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 PM ----------
I never did figure it out. I gave the customer a discount and vowed never to touch the phone again. Terrible design, way worse than the Inspire; and that one was pretty bad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I'd have to say in my few years of phone repairs, this has got to be THE scariest phone to fix. Absolute crap! I managed to replace the screen and get it all up and running but putting it back together is another story. So far, I've managed to break the power cable and the volume cable just trying to fit the thing back in its case.
Is there any need for such a seriously tight fitting back to a phone? I really don't want to finish this repair now as I'm afraid I'll break another cable and this is starting to cost me money replacing all the parts (which are also very hard to get hold of in the UK for some reason). It's definitely more hassle than it's worth and I won't be repairing any more of these crap phones.
If anyone has managed to get the back on without wrecking the phone, I'd love to know how it's done. If I do manage it by some miracle, I'll post an update.
Good luck to all those trying this repair.

So I took it apart... Here's how it went.

So a bought my tablet, without the dock. Being a modder/hacker/tweaker, I knew I had to root and learn the flash process specific to my device ASAP.
Horrified to find that I would lose my warranty, and that I would be on my own from that moment when I would have unlocked it an beyond.
So I hesitated... For a week... and unlocked, rooted, and flashed a couple ROMs. All is well.
Fast forward 4 months...
I started getting issues with the touch screen on my device. I was heartbroken. I knew that nobody would fix it, despite it being a hardware defect of some kind.
The issue I was having was the "Ghost Touches" which would swipe up and down rapidly and randomly on the left half of the screen.
It would happen seemingly at random, and progressively became so bad that I couldn't use my TF700 any longer.
Shelving it for a few weeks, I finally became inspired and motivated to try to fix it myself, or at least discover wtf was wrong with it.
I found that pressing on the bottom of the tablet (the sections that surround the screen itself) would actually make the problem go away, but also make half of my screen unresponsive until I screen locked/unlocked it.
That made me feel that it was software related seeing that a simple lock/unlock via the top left button would make it stop for a few seconds, but this wasn't the case despite this glaring fact.
So I knew I had to open it, and I had no resources, couldn't find any videos, no information on opening this thing was available, at least at the time.
The steps I took were:
1) Turning off the device of course.
2) Flipped it over and with a flashlight looked down into the two slots for mounting it on the dock.
2a) I peeled away the squishy stickery thingy from each slot.
2b) There are little circles, one in each, that using something sturdy, you must slide to the tablet's left. (I used a nail...)
3) Using some kind of plastic yet sturdy wedge, you must unsnap all of the clasps under the screen to free it.
3a) I used a guitar pick, starting from one of the slots on the bottom, I ran the pick around the edges of the screen after carefully forcing it between the aluminium case and the glass.
3b) With somewhat violent prying motions I was able to free all of the snaps. (You need not unsnap the top side, only the bottom, left, and right sides. If I recall correctly)
4) There's 2 ribbons, they're sneaky, one is copper colored, the other is white. The white one is the scary one.
I turned on my tablet at this point, everything worked fine, I was VERY thankful at that point.
Now I looked around on the inside of the device and noticed that the point where the copper ribbon meets the digitizer/lcd screen was dented a bit, and when I ran my finger across it, the phantom touch problem went absolutely crazy. Bingo.
I found the pressing the ribbon flat against the screen, and firmly holding it in place fixed the problem.
So with a piece of tape I found next to me, I carefully rolled the tape over the dented area of the ribbon, and firmly secured the ribbon to the back of the screen preventing it from moving at all.
Upon reassembling my device, all has worked well, though when I shake the tablet, or press on certain points (takes a fair bit of pressure, nothing you'd ever do intentionally) the "Ghost Touch" comes back, but is easily remedied by a quick lock/unlock. This happens only once or twice a week at best, and I use this tablet HEAVILY.
Sorry for the messy post, and the lack of pictures, I didn't take any, and am not doing this again until I have to.
I really hope anyone who read this can gain from it.
Regards,
~HNx

That is some good info there.
Thanks for taking the time to put that together. I'm sure this will be very useful/helpful to those with similar/same symptoms.
Good job on doing it on your own like that. :thumbup:
Sent from my ADR6400L using xda app-developers app

Wow thank you for the post very very much.
I have had the ghost touch problem ever since the start, but it only came about with the dock connected. Through trial and error i figured that the dock is pressing on the bottom of the screen when you open/close it and causes persistent ghost touch. Simple on/off screen would fix it until i adjust the dock angle again. Never had it without dock connected.
Mine is also unlocked so no warranty. Although i am planning to rma the dock as its started to make clicking noises when open/closes.
Will definitely do your fix soon. How long would you say the whole process took you the first time?
Any idea what is causing the ghosting after the fix? My thought is that it was the gorilla glass bending that was creating some interference inside of it, hope i'm wrong.
Also, since we are on the fixing it from the inside page, the clicking noises (i get slight ones if i press/squeeze by audio jack), could they be fixed with some filing. ?
And the big one, could we solder on / replace the inner sdcard chip? perhaps hack a flash/ssd in there if possible?

There are pictures of the TF700's internal components on the iFixIt web site.
I don't think you can replace a BGA chip without damaging the board.

Took me a while to get to it but i opened her up today.
Firstly i recently received my dock back from RMA because the left top corner kept opening up when i tilt the tablet and i had to press on dock to click it back together. RMA people sent it back saying "works as intended, no problems found" with an added touch of removing right side rubber protector (left and bottom still there). Thank you for that..
So i decided to take matter in my own hands and lifted the top left rubber foothold of the dock only to find the warranty "void" screw just fall out... apparently it was never screwed in. OK easy fix, touch of screwdriver and dock is now better than new. Nice quality control there ASUS.
So now excited with first fix, i got to the tablet.
The ghost touch has been plaguing me with the dock attached every time.
I had tf700 unlocked to get the extra performance due to slow flash so no warranty.
Used 2 guitar picks, managed to get the screen off no problems. Tested if it still works, fine there too.
As noted by OP, the orange ribbon causes ghost touches as you press on it.
The white ribbon was in the way so I unplugged it from the screen.
This is the trouble causing area:
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It was obviously insecurely connected to the touch screen. I tried to stuff some tinfoil to the edges to hold in better, however, upon testing my solution, had a fatal (to the screen) accident.
The white ribbon killed lcd power and I couldnt tell if device was on (which it was). Upon attempting to connect the ribbon back, some contacts touch other contacts on the connector, small electrical flash, and lcd screen is dead... :crying:
tablet still works with dock and hdmi out:
Well since screen was broken already i decided to remove it from the touch glass to further investigate the ghost touch.
This is the problem, the orange ribbon was just glued to the touch screen (pressed between 2 screens) and has no secure connection hold. perhaps the glue unglued or air bubbles get in the way or the 2 screens not hold it tightly enough. It is obviously a design fault.
Whoever decided to use this method and then use same badly secured connection area to apply force to keyboard dock to open/close the device, did poor job...
Sure it is my fault i ruined the screen but i cant help but to feel cheated from ASUS.
I loved the idea of transformer tablet and was a very loyal ASUS fan. Bought it first month it came out, used for a year already.
They advertized a premium top of the line product, use a cheap memory solution which makes customers unlock and
void warranty. And when design failures arise, well, you are on your own.
Every TF700 tablet has this "ghost touch" problem, by design. Some may be better than others. It is just a failed product execution.
Not sure what i will do with the tablet now, have mixed feelings about it.
But as a long time ASUS customer / fan, can no longer recommend their products. Their new "direction" of passing bad designs as premium products, just not what I expected.
0.02

upon further review, the lcd connection wire had some pins burned out from the short, so hopefully lcd screen is alive.
[EDIT]
WOW they sell from china for 45 dollars!! for a tiny piece of wire like that...
anyone with a broken/replacement lcd which has a working wire be willing to salvage/sell theirs?

Just as an update, I've yet to need to take my TF700 apart again. The "Ghost Touch" problem hasactually gone away entirely even with
pressure applied to the effected areas.
Further I've tracked the problem down to the tablet getting hot, very hot. As dankens points out, the glue is all that holds the ribbon in place. It's my suspicion that the glue becomes loose. The ribbon most likely shifts a bit at this point, and the problem arises.
Be careful tf700 owners, once it starts, it doesn't just go away.
dankens said:
upon further review, the lcd connection wire had some pins burned out from the short, so hopefully lcd screen is alive.
[EDIT]
WOW they sell from china for 45 dollars!! for a tiny piece of wire like that...
anyone with a broken/replacement lcd which has a working wire be willing to salvage/sell theirs?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First I'd like to apologize if my post played any role in the eventual damaging of your tablet.
I hate to see such an expensive device broken.
You said it was just some burnt out pins that are problem. I'm pretty sure that I could repair it if you havn't yet bought a new screen.
If you're interested, you can drop me an email -- [email protected]

Well, i went out and got the parts from china/ebay, i think they ship them on wales from china because it took forever!
Started off with the damn white ribbon which cost me $41 for a 4 inch piece of wire!!
LCD was still dead, so i figured it got fried as well. new LCD (no digitizer) cost another $88. After assembling (now i make sure the battery is unplugged first thing, and connected last) i could see the lcd lamp turn on but screen was black.
Next to go was the mobo (i think GPU fried as well), they dont really sell those much, cheapest one was $80 (refurbished).
connected all and viola, back to normal. cost of parts: 209, worth it? not sure.
Definitely a learning experience, damn parts cost more than the tablet itself.
Looking forward to Dell Venue 11 pro (i5 version).

dankens said:
Well, i went out and got the parts from china/ebay, i think they ship them on wales from china because it took forever!
Started off with the damn white ribbon which cost me $41 for a 4 inch piece of wire!!
LCD was still dead, so i figured it got fried as well. new LCD (no digitizer) cost another $88. After assembling (now i make sure the battery is unplugged first thing, and connected last) i could see the lcd lamp turn on but screen was black.
Next to go was the mobo (i think GPU fried as well), they dont really sell those much, cheapest one was $80 (refurbished).
connected all and viola, back to normal. cost of parts: 209, worth it? not sure.
Definitely a learning experience, damn parts cost more than the tablet itself.
Looking forward to Dell Venue 11 pro (i5 version).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For those of you who will attempt to fix the same problem reported in the OP, my 2 cents:
1. After you successfully open the tab, but BEFORE doing anything, turn off the switch in the area circled red in the attached thumbs. This will cut off all electrical current to the components and prevent accidental shorts. It's called "service switch" for that reason;
2. The information given earlier about how the ribbon was bonded to the glass was incorrect. So I deleted that part. I examined under a microscope and it appeared a chemical strip of some kind was applied to the glass for bonding. Apparently, it worked in my case since I put a piece of kapton tape where the ribbon came off the glass, More likely, it was a part of the ribbon that had no function in the operation of the touchscreen. Thus, there ain't no way one can re-bond it once the ribbon's ripped off the glass, undamaged though it might be.

It looks like I'm having the same issue, but I'm confused about where to put the tape. Should I be removing the digitizer for this? Does the tape go RIGHT WHERE the ribbon connects to the glass? Or do I simply fold the ribbon over top of the computer chips on the back of the digitizer and do it there and tape it there?

jneuffer said:
It looks like I'm having the same issue, but I'm confused about where to put the tape. Should I be removing the digitizer for this? Does the tape go RIGHT WHERE the ribbon connects to the glass? Or do I simply fold the ribbon over top of the computer chips on the back of the digitizer and do it there and tape it there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope someone can answer this. I can't figure out where to put the tape from all these posts either. I am about to embark on this journey. I have never disassembled a tablet or smartphone before. I am not that scared because I haven't really used this tablet due to all the problems I have had with it and have moved on the the Nexus 7. I would like to have it back in service though since now it is unusable due to the ghost touches.
Edit:
This might be the info I was looking for from a post above. Thanks.
"So with a piece of tape I found next to me, I carefully rolled the tape over the dented area of the ribbon, and firmly secured the ribbon to the back of the screen preventing it from moving at all."

echardcore said:
I hope someone can answer this. I can't figure out where to put the tape from all these posts either. I am about to embark on this journey. I have never disassembled a tablet or smartphone before. I am not that scared because I haven't really used this tablet due to all the problems I have had with it and have moved on the the Nexus 7. I would like to have it back in service though since now it is unusable due to the ghost touches.
Edit:
This might be the info I was looking for from a post above. Thanks.
"So with a piece of tape I found next to me, I carefully rolled the tape over the dented area of the ribbon, and firmly secured the ribbon to the back of the screen preventing it from moving at all."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I successfully opened it up and taped the white and gold wires down but the problem didnt go away. I am able to reproduce it more now though. I didnt tape the gold wire to the edge of the screen because when I pressed on that with the unit on it didn't cause the issue. I was able to make it happen while opened by touching the gold wire near where the problem spot seems to be but not on it.
Wondering if I build up a protective bump of material like tape inside so the case cant be compressed to cause the issue if that will help. I refuse to send it anywhere or purchase parts. I've spent too much time and effort on this thing. Really sucks to have a tablet that I cant use. I guess I could sell it on ebay for parts.

I'm going to keep bumping this as I discover more.
So I took it apart again trying to rig it up to work.
I found that the gold cable doesn't like being bent the way it is bent from the factory. If you straighten it out and fiddle with it, the ghost touches go away. I have been doing all my testing with the tablet powered on making sure not to disconnect anything. This way I can really get a feel for what is causing the ghost touches. If you intend on doing this look for the service switch and shut it off. Its hard to find even though its right in the middle of everything.
Cable with "33" written on it is the issue. I cut away some of the black plastic they used to keep things neat.
Pulling away the problem cable for your viewing pleasure
Tried to add some foam padding which helped with the case open.
Too much padding to close the case. Might try again with less padding.

[GUIDE]HDC Galaxy S4 Legend Disassembly + Antenna Modifications!

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES ARE YOU PERMITTED TO REPOST ANY IMAGES OR TEXT FROM THIS GUIDE, DIGITALLY OR OTHERWISE, WITHOUT MY WRITTEN CONSENT.
I can only offer limited advice as I currently do not have an LCD. That said, I have a better understanding of the layout of the board now.
I have had several messages asking 'Where can I buy this part?' Unless it is already posted in this thread, I do not know where you can buy it.
Possible parts sellers: (I cannot confirm details are correct. Purchase at your own risk!)
LCD: http://s.taobao.com/search?q=fpc-a50...l-b&rsclick=13
An EXPERIMENTAL antenna guide can be found in this post: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=46020544&postcount=61
Results of this here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=46309271&postcount=68
I'm in the UK, using the O2 network so I do not know how it will affect US networks as they use a different frequency.
This guide is currently incomplete and will be updated as progress is made. Thanks to @henrykins111 and @PerisH-es for the helpful information.
Please note: This will void your warranty. I do not accept responsibility for this or any data loss or damage that may occur directly or indirectly as a result of attempting to follow any of the steps in this guide. Please take care and follow these steps at your own risk.
Tools required for the disassembly:
- Small (2-3mm?) Phillips head screwdriver
- Plastic pry tool or thin guitar plectrum.
Firstly, remove the back case, battery, microSD card and SIM card. Put these safely to one side.
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Remove the 9 screws that surround the edges of the back of the phone. Put these in a small box or something, I've lost countless screws by just leaving them on the side.
Insert the plectrum (or pry tool) between the chrome and the brushed style sections of the phone. Take care not to use too much force or push the plectrum in too far as this could damage some of the ribbon cables, situated mostly towards the top of the phone.
You'll be left with two parts. The grey piece you just removed will have the ribbon antennas for wifi and cellular signal attached, as well as the loudspeaker and the camera lens and flash diffuser. The board is now also exposed.
To remove the camera, using the plectrum to carefully unplug the ribbon cable. The main camera unit can then be lifted out, but be aware that it is held down by some tape so be aware that a small amount of force may be required.
Now using the same method unplug the small black ribbon cable that is attached to the SIM and microSD card slots.
The card slots are held in with a little glue, and these can now be removed.
To remove the board, first undo the 2 screws located in opposite corners that hold it down. Make a note of their location as it is easy to confuse which holes to put them in. Then, remove this small strip of tape, being VERY careful not to tear the ribbon cables beneath.
Using the plectrum, you can now remove these. The bottom cable is a data cable that links to the bottom board and the top cable is the screen cable (I think - not sure)
Just above the socket for the SIM and microSD card slots is another socket. This has a small, black, hinged plastic tab that you must lift until it is 90degrees to the board. You can then slowly slide out the ribbon cable from the socket. Underneath this cable is another plug type socket. Unplug this.
Another antenna cable can now be removed. This can be quite stiff but be very careful not to dent the metal on the connections and also be aware that it is possible to pull the socket itself from the board.
After unplugging another small ribbon cable located on the top edge of the phone, the board can now be lifted. Lift the board as smoothly as possible, making sure to not tear any of the ribbon cables.
To remove the first infrared sensor and light sensor, simply pull it vertically out from the casing of the phone.
Just underneath the top of the headphone jack is a small indent in the white plastic. Use this to remove the headphone jack, but be careful not to apply to much force as joined by another thin ribbon cable is the LED and second infrared sensor. This may take some slight wriggling to remove as it is all held in with a small amount of glue.
Unplug the ribbon cable from the bottom left hand side of the board.
The other end of the metal antenna cable can now be unplugged. being careful of the components underneath and the round thing (microphone?) the board should now only be held in by a couple of strips of tape and a little glue.
The other side of the bottom board. This helps explain a few things. The round object connected via the wires appears to be the vibration motor. There are no numbers or letters written on it. Those of you having problems, it may simply be a broken connection on this wire, so it's worth checking.
The microphone is the small surface mounted silver box located next to the solder points for the wires.
The LCD/digitizer/glass assembly is now held in with a little glue. Use the plectrum to remove the screen. If it's stubborn, gently heat with a heat gun or hair dryer on low heat in a circular motion over the device. You may need to apply a small amount of pressure to the back of the LCD, where the battery would normally be. There is a risk of breaking it if you do this, but this won't matter if you're replacing it anyway.
NOTE: The LCD cables will not fit through the slot they are in without removing the small black divider to the right hand side of the slot, where the top speaker would be.
!Potentially important information!
As I broke the LCD I thought I would have a go at separating the LCD from the digitizer/glass. Turns out it is possible BUT almost impossible to do without breaking the LCD.
If your LCD is broken but your glass/digitizer is fine, then you could try removing it. The LCD is glued to the glass only around the edge. To remove it, you simply have to pull the LCD from the glue. Before you do this, be ABSOLUTELY sure that you are only pulling the LCD off and not the digitizer. The easiest way to check is to remove the LCD from the top down, as here you can use the ribbon cable as a reference to which layer is the digitizer. Picture of this to come.
As mentioned by @henrykins111, gently heating the screen and using a thin metal spudger or xacto knife will really help with this.

Nice, on wich picture can you see the vibration engine?

splashboy said:
Nice, on wich picture can you see the vibration engine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure where it is if I'm honest. I'll strip the phone down and power it up in parts to try and locate it.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

I was looking for the microphone part, i think in my phone it's defect and trying to repair it myself.
Maybe you have some shots of it?

Thanks for posting this. I'm also looking for the vibration engine as it seems to be faulty on mine, it stops working sometimes and shaking the phone a bit seems to fix it temporarily, which makes me think there's a loose connection. I'm also suffering from a poor wifi signal as I move away from the router - do you know where the wifi antenna is?

Original post has been updated with further information about the bottom board, microphone and vibration motor.
Firefly0 said:
do you know where the wifi antenna is?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It looks like the wifi antenna is the black cable with gold metal connections that runs down the right hand side (volume button side) and connects to the bottom board. This in turn connects to a grey flat ribbon style antenna which can be seen glued flat to the bottom of the phone simply by removeing the battery cover.
That said, I have the same problem. Different ROMs don't solve the problem. I'm wondering if it simply is weak, and maybe a strip of conductive tape or foil or similar on top of this antenna would help. Either that or have the complete opposite effect and it refelct signals around inside the phone. Might be worth a try though.

Really helpful, I thank you!

splashboy said:
Really helpful, I thank you!
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Click to collapse
Glad I could offer something useful to the community :laugh:

Firefly0 said:
Thanks for posting this. I'm also looking for the vibration engine as it seems to be faulty on mine, it stops working sometimes and shaking the phone a bit seems to fix it temporarily, which makes me think there's a loose connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me know if you fixed it and how you did
Thanks!

Does anyone have any idea why I can't update the original post with images? If i copy the exact same code into a new post, it allows me to do it.
Example:

rynbrgss said:
Original post has been updated with further information about the bottom board, microphone and vibration motor.
It looks like the wifi antenna is the black cable with gold metal connections that runs down the right hand side (volume button side) and connects to the bottom board. This in turn connects to a grey flat ribbon style antenna which can be seen glued flat to the bottom of the phone simply by removeing the battery cover.
That said, I have the same problem. Different ROMs don't solve the problem. I'm wondering if it simply is weak, and maybe a strip of conductive tape or foil or similar on top of this antenna would help. Either that or have the complete opposite effect and it refelct signals around inside the phone. Might be worth a try though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. That sounds like it could work, let me know the results if you try it. I've messaged the seller I bought the phone from about the poor wifi signal to see if they have any advice, I'll post back if I have any luck.
splashboy said:
Let me know if you fixed it and how you did
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems to be OK now after shaking the phone a bit. Pulling out the battery also seemed to temporarily fix it once, but I think that may have just been a coincidence. I'll probably try opening it up if it stops working again to see if there is a loose connection.

Firefly0 said:
Thanks for the reply. That sounds like it could work, let me know the results if you try it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been having a play but no luck. I tried simply inserting a small strip of foil between the antenna and back case and no change. I then true different sizes an locations still the same. Even made an antenna from the foil that ran just love halfway up the phone and wired it into the pins on the board, and no significant change there either I'm afraid.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

rynbrgss said:
I've been having a play but no luck. I tried simply inserting a small strip of foil between the antenna and back case and no change. I then true different sizes an locations still the same. Even made an antenna from the foil that ran just love halfway up the phone and wired it into the pins on the board, and no significant change there either I'm afraid.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will be interesting, to see, if any parts from the real s4 are compatible with this legend, i see many users will pay an extra buck to replace de rear and front camera, and also the wifi, because these parts are relatively cheap..., in another angle, maybe someone will also wanted to change for the real s4 screen but i doubt that will be compatible .

I see many people with poor wifi, could an original flez cable be the solution?
ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Internal-Antenna-Signal-WIFI-Flex-Cable-Part-for-Samsung-Galaxy-S4-i9500-/290931180790?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item43bcd984f6

rynbrgss said:
Does anyone have any idea why I can't update the original post with images? If i copy the exact same code into a new post, it allows me to do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you have to load up the pictures again, not only try to link the pictures.
Thanks for your work on the Legend! :good:

Picture links fixed

lvieira76 said:
It will be interesting, to see, if any parts from the real s4 are compatible with this legend, i see many users will pay an extra buck to replace de rear and front camera, and also the wifi, because these parts are relatively cheap..., in another angle, maybe someone will also wanted to change for the real s4 screen but i doubt that will be compatible .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While the wifi flex replacement should fit, I can't see it making any real difference. The wifi antenna itself is different from the S4; on our phones there is a thin grey ribbon antenna underneath the battery. It looks just like a sticker but on the other side of it it has a thin copper circuit. This is what is potentially the problem as it may not be very well designed. (I'm no expert when it comes to antenna designs themselves).
I'd be reluctant to try the camera but if you do let us know how it goes. The same with the screen.

I think the wifi antenna is the antenna in the top. The little one at the right-corner. You can try with that.
I believe that the botton antenna is the mobile antenna (GSM).
Hope it helps.
@rynbrgss Did you get to check the lcd model?

i sure hope that someone gets an fix for wifi, because, i receive my legend today and didnt pick the wireless 10 meters away...lol

PerisH-es said:
I think the wifi antenna is the antenna in the top. The little one at the right-corner. You can try with that.
I believe that the botton antenna is the mobile antenna (GSM).
Hope it helps.
@rynbrgss Did you get to check the lcd model?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't, I need to work out how to get to it without damaging the phone.
Ill have a play with the other antenna too, thanks for the heads
up.
lvieira76 said:
i sure hope that someone gets an fix for wifi, because, i receive my legend today and didnt pick the wireless 10 meters away...lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried fluffy's Rom? That helped a lot wwith mine.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app