Database Info

Captivate Teardown! (Step by Step, LOTS OF PICTURES)

***Disclaimer***
DO NOT attempt to disassemble your phone unless you can handle the possibility of breaking your phone, both financially and emotionally. Also keep in mind that this WILL void your warranty.
First thing's first! Remove your battery cover, battery, sim card, and sd card.
There are six screws on the back of the cover that we need to remove. Two of them are a little tricky to get to. What you need to do, is GENTLY pull up in the center of the battery latch, and then pull out, it should slide out relatively easily. The final two screws should now be reachable.
Screw locations:
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The final two screws:
Remove all six screws and keep them somewhere safe. Every last screw in this phone is identical, so no worries about getting them mixed up.
Start with the bottom end of the phone first, and begin to pry the screen out from the edges. The bezel and back cover of the phone are all one piece around the screen. The bottom edge should come off with out too much trouble:
Here comes the hardest part of this entire process, releasing the last clip at the top from the rest of the phone:
With a plastic tool or very small flathead screw driver, VERY carefully lift one side of the case as shown in the picture above, slide the driver head in and gently pry up. The last clip should come free without too much force.
As you can see, it is a very beefy clip.
Everything with a red arrow needs to come off of the mainboard to enable removal.
Once those are all disconnected, you should have something like this:
There's a couple more things to do before we can pull that mainboard off.
First, we need to unlatch the ribbon cable from the speaker. Flip the back clamp on the connector up to enable release of the cable, like so:
NOTE: There may be a piece of blue tape over the connector and cable. Carefully remove it before performing this step.
There's one last screw to take care of:
Once that is out, you can pull the right side of the board up, and the left should follow pretty easily, just be careful of your cables and be absolutely sure everything is disconnected before you pull that board off.
Here is the front side of the board with all of the shielding removed. This basically entails taking the micro sd and sim card board off. When doing this, be sure to disconnect the cable that runs from the top board to the underside of the main board.
Apparently I somehow missed getting better pictures of the underside.. >.<
Here's the backside of the screen assembly. This is applied with an adhesive, so please, for the sake of your phone, do not attempt to remove this unless you are a professional and know exactly what you're doing and how.
I am not one such person, so I made no attempt at removing anything else.
For those wondering about the bluetooth chipset and whether it is in fact the same chipset in the Galaxy S (meaning we would have FM support) I am sorry to say I could not find the bluetooth chipset. The Broadcom chip on the frontside of the main board is the BCM4751 which is only a GPS receiver.
i.e. there may still be hope for the FM receiver.
That completes the step by step teardown of the Samsung Captivate. Thanks for reading

Great job on the teardown. I was under the impression that the Captivate has fm radio built in. I guess i was getting that feature mixed up with the HTC Aria
-Robin

Finally! This is great, thanks much for doing the teardown. If you haven't reassembled yet, would it be possible to get a couple more high-res pics of both sides of the main board so we can read chip numbers?

Unfortunately I don't have an area where I can get a real even lighting so that I can get good pictures of those numbers, all 3 of the larger chips on the back are all Samsungs. If I pull it apart again, I will try to get better pictures of each of the chips.
the one to the left in the photo reads KLMAG8DEDD A101
The one with the white sticker on it is the hummingbird chipset.
The smaller chip in between, however is not a samsung chip.
Almost everything on the top side are TriQuint chips. Theres one square, covered with a black/blue tape. Then theres 3 rectangular chips along side it, 2 sideways and one vertical. Most likely the wireless chips for Edge, 3G and HSUPA and HSDPA.
EDIT: The SWB-B23 chip, responsible for WiFi and Bluetooth is found on the Galaxy S i9000, it is also here on the Captivate.
----------^^(Samsung Wifi Bluetooth)

Are there any tamper-proof stickers or what-not that could void the warranty that we need to watch out for? The BB Bold has this small sticker on top of the screws so that ATT or BB would know that it's been tampered with? Also, can the S-AMOLED screen itself be detached from the chassis? Reason is, there is dust build-up on the creases around the screen and would like to clean it once in a while. Thanks.

No tamper proof stickers, and taking the back cover off will give you access to clean what you want.
The super amoled is bonded to the screen.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

Guess there is no chance of removing the at&t logo then?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

Unfortunately, no. I don't think there's any possibility of actually removing the logos from the glass.

Sorry, but I might have not made myself clear, what I meant was the screen including the s-amoled itself from the surrounding casing. Not the glass/screen on top of S-Amoled.

Yea, you can see how it separates from the bezel in the writeup
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

good writeup!

Nice tear down.
Looked through your pictures and compared the the Samsung I-9000 teardown pcitures. Looks like the camera plug in module is definitely different, though it uses the same chip. I was hoping that we may have been able to buy the module and replace the captivates and mod the housing to get a FFC. Doesnt look like we will.
Heres the link a I-9000 tear down
pfdownload.com/i9000-deassemble.html

It seems the BCM4329 Broadcom chip comprising 802.11n + Bluetooth 2.1/EDR + FM radio (transmit/receive) is integrated into SWB-23 as per h t t p: // www .angcore. com/YOSUN/DETAIL_SWB-B23.html
But the i9000 uses the FM radio from SI4709.
It is possible that Samsung is using the 802.11n Wifi functionality of the SWB-23. But that chip doesn't support BT3.0. However since both the i9000 and i897 are advertised as being bluetooth 3.0 capable, we need to find out which chip is actually doing the BT3.0 function. I could be wrong, but as far as I remember the only other chip carried by i9000 that is capable of BT3.0 is BCM20751. If that is the case, then I am inclined to say that BCM20751 must also be integrated somewhere in the Captivate.
It is a pity that Samsung had to use so many chips with redundant functionality.

It is possible that the Captivate carries that same BCM20751 chip, but I was not able to find it in my inspection of the phone.

Second picture from button, the circuit board in the hand, what's that little round connector on the top left corner? If you trace the circuit, does it go to the GPS? And can you see any other aerial wire for the GPS? Seeing the tear down also of the i9000, I see what looks like an aerial on the back plate, but it doesn't seem to be connected to the mainboard.

@sjdean: I think the connector you are referring to is the connector for external antenna extenders, which can easily be seen if you take the backplate off of the phone. Also, I don't know if anyone has noticed or mentioned it, but there are 2 specific contacts that protrude from the mainboard and make contact with the metal backplate. You can also see specific locations on the inside of the backplate where there is no paint, presumably to allow conductivity to the contacts.
I posted in the other thread about the Captivate teardown with some chips I managed to identify, but I'll go ahead and post them here too for reference.
The touch controller as an ATMEL MXT224
The modem chip as an Infineon BGA735.
There's also a TriQuint TQM6M9014 RF transceiver.
The broadcom chip on the front of the mainboard is confirmed as a BCM4571
And on the backside I managed to find another very small chip with the following markings:
MAX8998
EWQ 1012
EA89
I can't find out what it is. Possibly just a voltage regulator, but I'm not sure.

great post. i'll need this for my upcoming screen replacement...

Hi, do you have pics of the earpiece speaker? i think i need to replace mine and wondering if this was an easy thing to do.

The front speaker and rear speaker are all part of the same assembly. (That means its REALLY easy to replace. Pull out the old one and put the new one in)

IIRC, the speaker is hosed in Its own module just like the camera. that means as long as you can manage the first step of getting the back cover off all you've gotta do is pull the old speaker out and pop the new one in!

[Q] Potential for antenna mod?

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What do you guys suppose this is? Could it be a Mic? Or maybe an antenna attachment? I'd assume if it is an antenna attachment, it would be intended for the Wi-Fi (which seems to have some signal issues with the NS). So any thoughts on potential mods with this?

QuantumRand said:
View attachment 479124
What do you guys suppose this is? Could it be a Mic? Or maybe an antenna attachment? I'd assume if it is an antenna attachment, it would be intended for the Wi-Fi (which seems to have some signal issues with the NS). So any thoughts on potential mods with this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes that's definitely an antenna jack. In another thread some guy says it's for an external cellular antenna, but when I questioned him for clarification he never answered.

No need to show a picture of the guts. It's visible with the battery cover off.

Thats a MCX jack for sure

slowz3r said:
Thats a MCX jack for sure
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, and what's interesting is that I took apart my i9000 a couple of times (I was experimenting with a hardware mod involving the earphone jack), and this mcx jack is in just about the exact same location as one on the i9000. The one on the i9000 is underneath the plastic that covers the internals, and is connected by a small cable down to the bottom of the phone where the hump is (the antennas(?)).
Interesting that this model has the jack open, and exposed, with no explanation.
edit, not my teardown, but here's a link to the pic of one showing the jack on the i9000.

why put an MCX jack when it isnt used, maybe it isnt MCX at all. maybe its diagnostic?

slowz3r said:
why put an MCX jack when it isnt used, maybe it isnt MCX at all. maybe its diagnostic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is a mystery...it's a terrible location (underneath the battery cover) for a consumer usable external antenna; you'd not be able to reattach the cover.
If you look at an enlarged photo of the circuit board, you can follow the circuit traces on it down to the bottom of the phone, but still no clue what it's for from the picture.

distortedloop said:
It is a mystery...it's a terrible location (underneath the battery cover) for a consumer usable external antenna; you'd not be able to reattach the cover.
If you look at an enlarged photo of the circuit board, you can follow the circuit traces on it down to the bottom of the phone, but still no clue what it's for from the picture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
weird, now its realy going to bug me, anyone happen to have an MCX antenna they wanna use to test
I used to have a 12 inch antenna with an MCX connector i used for when i used to wardrive , but i have no idea where that went

might be for an future accessory back cover with inbuilt antenna?
or any thing like that.
or it might have maintenance/repair purpose?

slowz3r said:
why put an MCX jack when it isnt used, maybe it isnt MCX at all. maybe its diagnostic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I think too.
When the Droid 1 first came out, and people messed them up with roms and rooting, some people reported that Verizon re-flashed them via a very similar connector that the droid has in its battery compartment.

distortedloop said:
The one on the i9000 is underneath the plastic that covers the internals, and is connected by a small cable down to the bottom of the phone where the hump is (the antennas(?)).
Interesting that this model has the jack open, and exposed, with no explanation.
edit, not my teardown, but here's a link to the pic of one showing the jack on the i9000.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you compare that to my picture, that gray wire that's connected is NOT the MCX. Look to the left bottom of that and that is the MCX, looks exactly like on our nS.

ghost010 said:
might be for an future accessory back cover with inbuilt antenna?
or any thing like that.
or it might have maintenance/repair purpose?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Umm... am I mistaken or isn't the battery cover already functioning as an antenna? Those leads on the phone line up perfectly with ones in on the inside of the cover... looks pretty no-brainer to me that it's the antenna.
I want a way to boost signal using it but don't know anything about GSM antenna technology. Can you just use regular wire and hook them up to those 2 prongs and extend it out for better signal?
Obviously this isn't for walking around town but stationary signal boosting... i.e. in a building at work or something

Zenoran said:
Umm... am I mistaken or isn't the battery cover already functioning as an antenna? Those leads on the phone line up perfectly with ones in on the inside of the cover... looks pretty no-brainer to me that it's the antenna.
I want a way to boost signal using it but don't know anything about GSM antenna technology. Can you just use regular wire and hook them up to those 2 prongs and extend it out for better signal?
Obviously this isn't for walking around town but stationary signal boosting... i.e. in a building at work or something
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ummm those connectors are for the NFC chip since that is the part of the phone you have to wave at to read a near field chip.

nxt said:
If you compare that to my picture, that gray wire that's connected is NOT the MCX. Look to the left bottom of that and that is the MCX, looks exactly like on our nS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps. I did miss that.
Next time I take apart my i9000 I'll compare side-by-side and post a photo (don't hold your breath, though).
What I find interesting is that if you follow the circuit board traces on the picture you posted, they run to almost the exact same location on the bottom of the board as the white wire on the i9000. Granted, there's a lot going on down there, so who know until Samsung tells us...

Ooh that useless nfc chip =O
RogerPodacter said:
ummm those connectors are for the NFC chip since that is the part of the phone you have to wave at to read a near field chip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Did anyone find out what this connector is for?

yup
yup.
The usual antenna on my galaxy s seems to have stopped working. I tried to find a solution to sort it and in doing so I can confirm that the thing in that picture is for external antennas. I haven't used a proper antenna to confirm though.
Simply get a thin wire (I tried the bike brake cable) and shove it in the thin hole. Use a long wire to test and sit in your house where you'd normally get poor signal and you'd be pleasantly surprised to find that your getting full signal and HSDPA!
Only problem is that the wire for me eventually snapped. I didnt glue it in or anything so each time I removed the cover it'd come out. Now i'm in search of a metal case that I can attach the wire to permanently etc etc.
Now for some questions:
For anyone in the know, what type of wire is best for catching signals and what shape etc? strangely a plastic coated wire (those that are used in packaging to tie wires and stuff down/together) worked better than a bare one.
Can I get a custom metal case manufactured from somewhere cheap?

I did this mod with a thin piece of wire and actually broke my internal antenna. So if I remove my external antenna my phone is a nice Iandroid/MP3 player(touch). I don't have insurance and i'm basically screwed. It still works in really good reception areas but not in an area you bearly get 3g. This is the second phone in the last 6 months that i've broken. My atrix bit the dust, but didn't like it anyway. I need to learn to leave stuff alone. lol. But for now my makeshift external antenna combined with a ballistic case works.. Just regret ever trying this.
On another note, probably won't ever stop tinkering. That's how I learn.

Those antenna ports have been tuned at the factory for the best case scenario in the field. If you add wires or alter the jacks you are asking for trouble. Do a search in this forum for antenna mod I believe, you will see. Best of luck.
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using xda premium

If your external antenna is not properly tuned to your radio transmitter, you run a high risk of blowing your radio and getting NO signal. I highly recommend against anyone testing external antennas, unless you know exactly what you're doing. If you fry your phone, don't blame me, because I told you so.
That being said, the first thing you have to consider is the wavelength you're transmitting on. Meters = 300 / MHz, so a full wavelength 850/1900 antenna would be around 8 19/32 inches long (or 7 9/32" for tri-band 850/1900/2400 (wimax)). The next critical part is the lead wires. I think the inside is usually for the antenna and the outside for the ground. They have to be the right resistance, too. 50 Ohms is the standard for CBs. I don't know if its the same for phones. The only safe way to test any antenna is with an SWR meter. (I don't know what kind of adapter you'd need for that goofy little plug, or if there's a special kind of meter you'd need). If your Standing Wave Ratio is over 2.5 or so, most of the power you're putting out is feeding back into your transmitter, rather than going out from your antenna. That's when you run the risk of damaging your equipment. Under 1.5 is decent; 1.2 is good. 1.0 is perfect.
Personally, I'll leave homebrew cell antennas to the rich, the expert, and the crazy.
Happy modding!

[FIX] Touchscreen issues

This thread provides a simple solution to a rather serious screen unresponsiveness problem. The problem can manifest in some of the following ways: it takes more than one attempt to move the lock ring, not every press is registered when typing, buttons at the bottom of the screen don't always work, you can't get the carousel spinning, hectic touch issues while charging, etc. Many Sensations have this problem to some degree, and it has been reported on other phone models. Other phones can't be fixed using this method, but you could try the discharge process described under the fix.
UPDATE YOUR FIRMWARE FIRST
Before proceeding with any hardware "manipulation" I recommend you try the latest firmware. If you are running a stock ROM simply update your phone's software, and if you are on a custom pre-ICS ROM the update can be found here.
If the issues persist, keep reading.
IMPORTANT
You have to realise this fix does not solve the issue for everyone. So just to be clear, THIS DOES NOT SOLVE THE ISSUE FOR EVERYONE. The reason for this is simple - not everybody has the same issue. My opinion is that these issues have similar symptoms, but the causes are different. Similar issues could be caused by: a faulty charger, bad digitizer or SD card slot touching the cover.
The issue discussed here is related to a small silver pin located at the back of the phone (pictures below). That pin is the screen's "grounding" connection to the back cover. In time the pin loses proper contact to the cover and the screen becomes unresponsive. There is also a matter of static build-up which further complicates matters. I believe this is mostly down to the worst back cover in the known universe.
You could get this problem for no particular reason, but you might also experience it after dropping the phone, sneezing too hard, or when using an aftermarket battery (Anker, Chichitec, etc.) since they are usually thicker. If you have issues only while charging try a different charger. If you still have issues, this fix should help.
Note that there is more than one way to fix the issue, and that the results are not always instantaneous. The simplest fix is pulling the aforementioned pin outwards. The downside is the pin might bend back into its original position... So you could try applying one of the alternative solutions as an addition to pulling the pin.
Also, I am not responsible for your actions. If you damage your phone, it's on you.
CREDITS
What I'm doing here is sorting useful info and adding creative advice, I am not the one responsible for the actual solution. It's primarily tinky1, who started the first thread on the issue, where most debating and solving was performed. Then, misiek_to_ja (and his daughter ) noticed that using the phone without the back cover temporarily solves the problem. This meant the problem was beneath the back plate, which abrown0809 proved by pointing us to the grounding pin that everybody was somehow missing for two months. What followed were aluminium foil and soldering tricks that eliteone thought of. stuart0001 started a petition, but HTC ignored it. Andyjb103 pointed out that the firmware update can fix the issue in some cases. And there is of course everyone from tinky1's thread that went through loads of pain and suffering while testing different chargers, wall sockets, USB plugs, area codes, weather conditions, etc. A BIG THANKS TO EVERYONE!
Now then...
THE FIX
First, the simplest way to fix the issue. Switch the phone off, remove the back cover and locate the silver pin shown in this picture.
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Now pull it out a bit, like so:
Use a needle, a tiny screwdriver, or anything with a pointy end. Just be careful and don't pull too hard or too much. The side of the pin that is closer to the edge of the phone is the side you want do the most pulling to.
And that's it as far as the pin goes! Results could be instant, but there is still a chance you'll need to do a couple of things:
1. Discharge the phone all the way (until it shuts down).
2. Remove the battery and press the power button (as if you were trying to turn the phone on).
3. Leave the phone without the battery overnight (or for at least an hour).
4. Put the battery back and charge the phone without touching the screen.
Make sure you don't touch the screen whenever you're charging, until the issue disappears. This should happen within 2-3 days. If the problem persists, you ether did something wrong, or (as explained above) you have a different issue... Most common related problem is a faulty digitizer.
If the issue does go away you could make sure it stays that way by applying one of the alternatives as well.
ALTERNATIVES
See this small white square on the inside of the back cover?
That's where the silver pin makes contact to the cover. By pulling the pin out you insure better contact to that square. There are plenty of ways to further improve that contact.
Here is a few:
1. Take a small piece of aluminium foil (2cm by 2cm, or whatever works for you), fold it a few times and put it over the square (like this). Now carefully put the phone into the cover and make sure the foil doesn't move away from the square. If you want to keep the foil in place add a drop of superglue (just not directly on the square).
2. Alternatively, the foil could go directly on the pin. Stuart0001 made a picture of that here. This version is a bit more risky though.
3. Adding any sort of aluminium works (or any conductor for that matter). Take a look at what Oceanic72 did here.
4. Put a few drops of solder onto the square. And be careful with this one... Or just skip it if you've never soldered before. More on that in eliteone's post here.
5. Put some electrically conductive paint on the square. Michael_Mcr suggested that here.
There you go
If any of these solutions solve your problems but they come back, just try again. I do not recommend puling on the pin more than a few times though...
Hope I helped!

May I just add, that the soldering method, while good and permanent is not for noobs that have never soldered before. In order for solder to properly fuse with aluminum you have to prep the aluminum first. If you don't the solder will just fall off. And keep your iron JUST HOT ENOUGH to melt the solder, if your iron is too hot you risk warping the aluminum your soldering to. But all that being said if your good with an iron, its the most permanent and effective way of getting true contact with your grounding pin. If anybody wants I can do a quick video tut and post it here, just not for a few days...... Got a new baby joining the family tomorrow so life will be pretty hectic round here
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using xda premium

Nice post!

eliteone said:
May I just add, that the soldering method, while good and permanent is not for noobs that have never soldered before. In order for solder to properly fuse with aluminum you have to prep the aluminum first. If you don't the solder will just fall off. And keep your iron JUST HOT ENOUGH to melt the solder, if your iron is too hot you risk warping the aluminum your soldering to. But all that being said if your good with an iron, its the most permanent and effective way of getting true contact with your grounding pin. If anybody wants I can do a quick video tut and post it here, just not for a few days...... Got a new baby joining the family tomorrow so life will be pretty hectic round here
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Congrats!!!

Thanks
OP updated.
And congrats to eliteone again!

zmfl said:
First off, I am not the one responsible for the solution. It's primarily tinky1, who started the first thread on the issue, where most debating and solving was, and still is, performed. Then, abrown0809 pointed us to the grounding pin that everybody was somehow missing for two months. What followed were aluminium foil and soldering tricks that eliteone thought of. Also, stuart0001 started a petition that I hope HTC noticed... THANK YOU ALL
I might have missed somebody important... Sorry, I am dealing with a lot of info these couple of days... There is of course everyone from tinky1's thread that went through loads of pain and suffering while testing every possible solution and fix. Myself included
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I (or more my daughter) will take the credit as well. If I would not discover the fix with taking off the back cover it would not point all of you to grounding pin
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=16858697&postcount=917

I don't have these problems, but thanking anyway I hope this solves the problem for most people
Swyped from my HTC Sensation

misiek_to_ja said:
Well, I (or more my daughter) will take the credit as well. If I would not discover the fix with taking off the back cover it would not point all of you to grounding pin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are probably right... You slipped my mind, sorry
Updating OP.

idavid_ said:
I don't have these problems, but thanking anyway I hope this solves the problem for most people
Swyped from my HTC Sensation
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the community spirit!!!
eliteone, congrats with the littleone Make sure you reserve this nick on xda

Got my camera back, so proper pictures added
Eliteone promised some pictures of the solder fix. We'll get those in due time… Babies are more important than XDA

zmfl said:
Got my camera back, so proper pictures added
Eliteone promised some pictures of the solder fix. We'll get those in due time… Babies are more important than XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
XDA > Real life
Swyped from my HTC Sensation

idavid_ said:
XDA > Real life
Swyped from my HTC Sensation
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm guessing his wife disagrees with that

Hello,
i have solved the issues related to screen's grounding with a curved alu stripe.
Greetings
Marcus

Oceanic72 said:
Hello,
i have solved the issues related to screen's grounding with a curved alu stripe.
Greetings
Marcus
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That even looks good.. I'll add it to the list
My issues came back after about 2 weeks... I believe the pin bends back into its original position after a while... Adding something, like foil, aluminium or solder, might be necessary after all. I'll keep testing.

Thicker 1730mAh Batteries can cause current leakage while charging - Solution
Thanks!
I noticed a small current leakage when charging my Sensation with a 1730mAh battery, and some strange effects if I handled the phone for extended periods while charging - like the power menu popping up when I hadn't pressed the power button.
The battery is about 1mm thicker, and I suspected it was somehow causing something to make contact with the case, or shorting. I could feel the leaking current by rubbing the metal case with my finger and feeling a sort of 'fuzziness'. This only happened when it was charging, and I was able to reproduce this problem with both the HTC OEM Evo 3D 1730mAh battery and the 3rd party Anker / Chichitec battery.
After seeing this post, I realised that the slightly thicker battery was *separating* the contact between the case and this grounding plate. The battery fits perfectly and snugly into the Sensation, but the increased thickness was just enough to reduce the case's contact with the grounding plate.
I was very careful to bend the grounding plate out slightly with a tiny screwdriver as described in your first post.
Now there's no more current leakage! YAY!

..and yet ppl are bashing Samsung for build quality.
I came from a Htc Hero with the same problem as this. Sent it in and it was working fine for about three days, then the same problem again.
Then I bought the SGS2 and never looked back.. plastic fantastic

try to plug in a Nokia charger that outputs 1.2A and you'll get the problem continuously.
on the other hand, a computer USB port has low amp output and therefor it "solves" the issue.
btw, i got more touch issues with the Anker battery (again, higher amp output...)
Looks like something with the charging/power control mechanism of this unit is completely wrong

this will be very useful if this every happens to me, bookmarked

sowen222 said:
Thanks!
I noticed a small current leakage when charging my Sensation with a 1730mAh battery, and some strange effects if I handled the phone for extended periods while charging - like the power menu popping up when I hadn't pressed the power button.
The battery is about 1mm thicker, and I suspected it was somehow causing something to make contact with the case, or shorting. I could feel the leaking current by rubbing the metal case with my finger and feeling a sort of 'fuzziness'. This only happened when it was charging, and I was able to reproduce this problem with both the HTC OEM Evo 3D 1730mAh battery and the 3rd party Anker / Chichitec battery.
After seeing this post, I realised that the slightly thicker battery was *separating* the contact between the case and this grounding plate. The battery fits perfectly and snugly into the Sensation, but the increased thickness was just enough to reduce the case's contact with the grounding plate.
I was very careful to bend the grounding plate out slightly with a tiny screwdriver as described in your first post.
Now there's no more current leakage! YAY!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Makes sense... Thicker battery would mess up the grounding contact. Glad it works
Careful though... The pin might bend back. It did for me after a while
ranster said:
try to plug in a Nokia charger that outputs 1.2A and you'll get the problem continuously.
on the other hand, a computer USB port has low amp output and therefor it "solves" the issue.
btw, i got more touch issues with the Anker battery (again, higher amp output...)
Looks like something with the charging/power control mechanism of this unit is completely wrong
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's true, some phones act differently when charged with different chargers. For some though, mine included, it makes no difference...
Did you try any of the fixes I posted? Any changes?

This solved half of my problem, before I had a silicon case for protection and everything worked like a charm, then I got touchscreen problems. I put some aluminumfoil like discribed above.
Now without the silicon case it works perfect but with it´s still the same.
Is this because the rubber doesn´t conduct ? But then why did it work in the first place?
Does somebody else uses a rubber case?

So I took it apart... Here's how it went.

So a bought my tablet, without the dock. Being a modder/hacker/tweaker, I knew I had to root and learn the flash process specific to my device ASAP.
Horrified to find that I would lose my warranty, and that I would be on my own from that moment when I would have unlocked it an beyond.
So I hesitated... For a week... and unlocked, rooted, and flashed a couple ROMs. All is well.
Fast forward 4 months...
I started getting issues with the touch screen on my device. I was heartbroken. I knew that nobody would fix it, despite it being a hardware defect of some kind.
The issue I was having was the "Ghost Touches" which would swipe up and down rapidly and randomly on the left half of the screen.
It would happen seemingly at random, and progressively became so bad that I couldn't use my TF700 any longer.
Shelving it for a few weeks, I finally became inspired and motivated to try to fix it myself, or at least discover wtf was wrong with it.
I found that pressing on the bottom of the tablet (the sections that surround the screen itself) would actually make the problem go away, but also make half of my screen unresponsive until I screen locked/unlocked it.
That made me feel that it was software related seeing that a simple lock/unlock via the top left button would make it stop for a few seconds, but this wasn't the case despite this glaring fact.
So I knew I had to open it, and I had no resources, couldn't find any videos, no information on opening this thing was available, at least at the time.
The steps I took were:
1) Turning off the device of course.
2) Flipped it over and with a flashlight looked down into the two slots for mounting it on the dock.
2a) I peeled away the squishy stickery thingy from each slot.
2b) There are little circles, one in each, that using something sturdy, you must slide to the tablet's left. (I used a nail...)
3) Using some kind of plastic yet sturdy wedge, you must unsnap all of the clasps under the screen to free it.
3a) I used a guitar pick, starting from one of the slots on the bottom, I ran the pick around the edges of the screen after carefully forcing it between the aluminium case and the glass.
3b) With somewhat violent prying motions I was able to free all of the snaps. (You need not unsnap the top side, only the bottom, left, and right sides. If I recall correctly)
4) There's 2 ribbons, they're sneaky, one is copper colored, the other is white. The white one is the scary one.
I turned on my tablet at this point, everything worked fine, I was VERY thankful at that point.
Now I looked around on the inside of the device and noticed that the point where the copper ribbon meets the digitizer/lcd screen was dented a bit, and when I ran my finger across it, the phantom touch problem went absolutely crazy. Bingo.
I found the pressing the ribbon flat against the screen, and firmly holding it in place fixed the problem.
So with a piece of tape I found next to me, I carefully rolled the tape over the dented area of the ribbon, and firmly secured the ribbon to the back of the screen preventing it from moving at all.
Upon reassembling my device, all has worked well, though when I shake the tablet, or press on certain points (takes a fair bit of pressure, nothing you'd ever do intentionally) the "Ghost Touch" comes back, but is easily remedied by a quick lock/unlock. This happens only once or twice a week at best, and I use this tablet HEAVILY.
Sorry for the messy post, and the lack of pictures, I didn't take any, and am not doing this again until I have to.
I really hope anyone who read this can gain from it.
Regards,
~HNx

That is some good info there.
Thanks for taking the time to put that together. I'm sure this will be very useful/helpful to those with similar/same symptoms.
Good job on doing it on your own like that. :thumbup:
Sent from my ADR6400L using xda app-developers app

Wow thank you for the post very very much.
I have had the ghost touch problem ever since the start, but it only came about with the dock connected. Through trial and error i figured that the dock is pressing on the bottom of the screen when you open/close it and causes persistent ghost touch. Simple on/off screen would fix it until i adjust the dock angle again. Never had it without dock connected.
Mine is also unlocked so no warranty. Although i am planning to rma the dock as its started to make clicking noises when open/closes.
Will definitely do your fix soon. How long would you say the whole process took you the first time?
Any idea what is causing the ghosting after the fix? My thought is that it was the gorilla glass bending that was creating some interference inside of it, hope i'm wrong.
Also, since we are on the fixing it from the inside page, the clicking noises (i get slight ones if i press/squeeze by audio jack), could they be fixed with some filing. ?
And the big one, could we solder on / replace the inner sdcard chip? perhaps hack a flash/ssd in there if possible?

There are pictures of the TF700's internal components on the iFixIt web site.
I don't think you can replace a BGA chip without damaging the board.

Took me a while to get to it but i opened her up today.
Firstly i recently received my dock back from RMA because the left top corner kept opening up when i tilt the tablet and i had to press on dock to click it back together. RMA people sent it back saying "works as intended, no problems found" with an added touch of removing right side rubber protector (left and bottom still there). Thank you for that..
So i decided to take matter in my own hands and lifted the top left rubber foothold of the dock only to find the warranty "void" screw just fall out... apparently it was never screwed in. OK easy fix, touch of screwdriver and dock is now better than new. Nice quality control there ASUS.
So now excited with first fix, i got to the tablet.
The ghost touch has been plaguing me with the dock attached every time.
I had tf700 unlocked to get the extra performance due to slow flash so no warranty.
Used 2 guitar picks, managed to get the screen off no problems. Tested if it still works, fine there too.
As noted by OP, the orange ribbon causes ghost touches as you press on it.
The white ribbon was in the way so I unplugged it from the screen.
This is the trouble causing area:
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It was obviously insecurely connected to the touch screen. I tried to stuff some tinfoil to the edges to hold in better, however, upon testing my solution, had a fatal (to the screen) accident.
The white ribbon killed lcd power and I couldnt tell if device was on (which it was). Upon attempting to connect the ribbon back, some contacts touch other contacts on the connector, small electrical flash, and lcd screen is dead... :crying:
tablet still works with dock and hdmi out:
Well since screen was broken already i decided to remove it from the touch glass to further investigate the ghost touch.
This is the problem, the orange ribbon was just glued to the touch screen (pressed between 2 screens) and has no secure connection hold. perhaps the glue unglued or air bubbles get in the way or the 2 screens not hold it tightly enough. It is obviously a design fault.
Whoever decided to use this method and then use same badly secured connection area to apply force to keyboard dock to open/close the device, did poor job...
Sure it is my fault i ruined the screen but i cant help but to feel cheated from ASUS.
I loved the idea of transformer tablet and was a very loyal ASUS fan. Bought it first month it came out, used for a year already.
They advertized a premium top of the line product, use a cheap memory solution which makes customers unlock and
void warranty. And when design failures arise, well, you are on your own.
Every TF700 tablet has this "ghost touch" problem, by design. Some may be better than others. It is just a failed product execution.
Not sure what i will do with the tablet now, have mixed feelings about it.
But as a long time ASUS customer / fan, can no longer recommend their products. Their new "direction" of passing bad designs as premium products, just not what I expected.
0.02

upon further review, the lcd connection wire had some pins burned out from the short, so hopefully lcd screen is alive.
[EDIT]
WOW they sell from china for 45 dollars!! for a tiny piece of wire like that...
anyone with a broken/replacement lcd which has a working wire be willing to salvage/sell theirs?

Just as an update, I've yet to need to take my TF700 apart again. The "Ghost Touch" problem hasactually gone away entirely even with
pressure applied to the effected areas.
Further I've tracked the problem down to the tablet getting hot, very hot. As dankens points out, the glue is all that holds the ribbon in place. It's my suspicion that the glue becomes loose. The ribbon most likely shifts a bit at this point, and the problem arises.
Be careful tf700 owners, once it starts, it doesn't just go away.
dankens said:
upon further review, the lcd connection wire had some pins burned out from the short, so hopefully lcd screen is alive.
[EDIT]
WOW they sell from china for 45 dollars!! for a tiny piece of wire like that...
anyone with a broken/replacement lcd which has a working wire be willing to salvage/sell theirs?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First I'd like to apologize if my post played any role in the eventual damaging of your tablet.
I hate to see such an expensive device broken.
You said it was just some burnt out pins that are problem. I'm pretty sure that I could repair it if you havn't yet bought a new screen.
If you're interested, you can drop me an email -- [email protected]

Well, i went out and got the parts from china/ebay, i think they ship them on wales from china because it took forever!
Started off with the damn white ribbon which cost me $41 for a 4 inch piece of wire!!
LCD was still dead, so i figured it got fried as well. new LCD (no digitizer) cost another $88. After assembling (now i make sure the battery is unplugged first thing, and connected last) i could see the lcd lamp turn on but screen was black.
Next to go was the mobo (i think GPU fried as well), they dont really sell those much, cheapest one was $80 (refurbished).
connected all and viola, back to normal. cost of parts: 209, worth it? not sure.
Definitely a learning experience, damn parts cost more than the tablet itself.
Looking forward to Dell Venue 11 pro (i5 version).

dankens said:
Well, i went out and got the parts from china/ebay, i think they ship them on wales from china because it took forever!
Started off with the damn white ribbon which cost me $41 for a 4 inch piece of wire!!
LCD was still dead, so i figured it got fried as well. new LCD (no digitizer) cost another $88. After assembling (now i make sure the battery is unplugged first thing, and connected last) i could see the lcd lamp turn on but screen was black.
Next to go was the mobo (i think GPU fried as well), they dont really sell those much, cheapest one was $80 (refurbished).
connected all and viola, back to normal. cost of parts: 209, worth it? not sure.
Definitely a learning experience, damn parts cost more than the tablet itself.
Looking forward to Dell Venue 11 pro (i5 version).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For those of you who will attempt to fix the same problem reported in the OP, my 2 cents:
1. After you successfully open the tab, but BEFORE doing anything, turn off the switch in the area circled red in the attached thumbs. This will cut off all electrical current to the components and prevent accidental shorts. It's called "service switch" for that reason;
2. The information given earlier about how the ribbon was bonded to the glass was incorrect. So I deleted that part. I examined under a microscope and it appeared a chemical strip of some kind was applied to the glass for bonding. Apparently, it worked in my case since I put a piece of kapton tape where the ribbon came off the glass, More likely, it was a part of the ribbon that had no function in the operation of the touchscreen. Thus, there ain't no way one can re-bond it once the ribbon's ripped off the glass, undamaged though it might be.

It looks like I'm having the same issue, but I'm confused about where to put the tape. Should I be removing the digitizer for this? Does the tape go RIGHT WHERE the ribbon connects to the glass? Or do I simply fold the ribbon over top of the computer chips on the back of the digitizer and do it there and tape it there?

jneuffer said:
It looks like I'm having the same issue, but I'm confused about where to put the tape. Should I be removing the digitizer for this? Does the tape go RIGHT WHERE the ribbon connects to the glass? Or do I simply fold the ribbon over top of the computer chips on the back of the digitizer and do it there and tape it there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope someone can answer this. I can't figure out where to put the tape from all these posts either. I am about to embark on this journey. I have never disassembled a tablet or smartphone before. I am not that scared because I haven't really used this tablet due to all the problems I have had with it and have moved on the the Nexus 7. I would like to have it back in service though since now it is unusable due to the ghost touches.
Edit:
This might be the info I was looking for from a post above. Thanks.
"So with a piece of tape I found next to me, I carefully rolled the tape over the dented area of the ribbon, and firmly secured the ribbon to the back of the screen preventing it from moving at all."

echardcore said:
I hope someone can answer this. I can't figure out where to put the tape from all these posts either. I am about to embark on this journey. I have never disassembled a tablet or smartphone before. I am not that scared because I haven't really used this tablet due to all the problems I have had with it and have moved on the the Nexus 7. I would like to have it back in service though since now it is unusable due to the ghost touches.
Edit:
This might be the info I was looking for from a post above. Thanks.
"So with a piece of tape I found next to me, I carefully rolled the tape over the dented area of the ribbon, and firmly secured the ribbon to the back of the screen preventing it from moving at all."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I successfully opened it up and taped the white and gold wires down but the problem didnt go away. I am able to reproduce it more now though. I didnt tape the gold wire to the edge of the screen because when I pressed on that with the unit on it didn't cause the issue. I was able to make it happen while opened by touching the gold wire near where the problem spot seems to be but not on it.
Wondering if I build up a protective bump of material like tape inside so the case cant be compressed to cause the issue if that will help. I refuse to send it anywhere or purchase parts. I've spent too much time and effort on this thing. Really sucks to have a tablet that I cant use. I guess I could sell it on ebay for parts.

I'm going to keep bumping this as I discover more.
So I took it apart again trying to rig it up to work.
I found that the gold cable doesn't like being bent the way it is bent from the factory. If you straighten it out and fiddle with it, the ghost touches go away. I have been doing all my testing with the tablet powered on making sure not to disconnect anything. This way I can really get a feel for what is causing the ghost touches. If you intend on doing this look for the service switch and shut it off. Its hard to find even though its right in the middle of everything.
Cable with "33" written on it is the issue. I cut away some of the black plastic they used to keep things neat.
Pulling away the problem cable for your viewing pleasure
Tried to add some foam padding which helped with the case open.
Too much padding to close the case. Might try again with less padding.

How to replace a part

I have a broken LCD connector (as the image below shows). This is the connector that, after removing the back cover, the LCD flex cable is connected to on the bottom, just under the battery on the right side.
Everything works fine on my tablet, except for S Pen input, and I have been told, from my previous question, that this broken connector controls S Pen input as well.
I want to buy the replacement part and change it out, but I cannot find a way to get to the part and see what exactly it is without looking like I need to grind off some of the nubs holding the frame together, and I do not want to do that without some foresight into it first.
Does anyone know what part this is, where I can buy it, and how to change it out?
This is not the LCD/Digitizer assembly as those flex cables are connected on the top and are just fine. Just this particular connector is the issue, and everything else works fine except for s pen input. Even normal touch input works fine.
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Are you talking about the actual port the Flexible Flat Cable (or ribbon cable) goes into? I don't have my tablet here at the office, but if you're asking about how to replace the actual port/connector itself (that thing the ribbon cable plugs into), then I would imagine you'd be looking at some very delicate soldering to remove it, and even more fussy work to replace it. Soldering or desolering SMT components isn't for the faint of heart - or coffee addicts.
I can't quite see which part is broken though. Is it on the connector near where pin 45 is on the ribbon cable? If it's just the part of the connector that helps to hold the black 'hinge' down that locks in the ribbon cable once it's inserted, then you should be able to close the hinge and then tape it shut. You might need a bit of positive pressure against the hinge (a very LITTLE bit), which you could achieve by taping the hinge down and then sliding a thin sliver of plastic between the tape and the hinge. This would just be for testing purposes of course - if closing the hinge and taping it down does result in your pen working again, then at least you'd know exactly what the issue was.
If I've misunderstood the problem then just let me know.
Donovan.

phoenixbennu said:
I have a broken LCD connector (as the image below shows). This is the connector that, after removing the back cover, the LCD flex cable is connected to on the bottom, just under the battery on the right side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You did make a serious mistake as this connector in on LCD. There is no way you can fix this connector as the LCD and touchscreen are glued together. In order to get the LCD, you have to remove the touchscreen. High heat need to apply to soften the glue and I guarantee that you will crack the LCD during this process of separating touchscreen and LCD as well as cutting the flex cable of the touchscreen. I damaged 3 LCDs and 2 touchscreens in order to learn how to separate them.
You only fix right now is using tape to secure and hold down the LCD cable, there is no other way unless you try to replace a new LCD.

phoenixbennu said:
Everything works fine on my tablet, except for S Pen input, and I have been told, from my previous question, that this broken connector controls S Pen input as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
S Pen and LCD cables are different and not related, they have their own connector. S Pen uses Wacom technology embedded in LCD, its cable is at the top as seen in the picture,
If disconnect this cable, your S Pen will not function. In the picture, motherboard of Galaxy Tab Pro 12.2, a similar tablet like Galaxy Note Pro, everything is the same except it doesn't have the connector or input for S Pen cable. I can use the motherboard of Galaxy Tab Pro with a LCD assembly of Galaxy Note Pro without any problem. Everything works except S Pen. The LCD cable has nothing to do or control S Pen function, it just used for display images.

Well I am wondering how it can be having an issue then. The top cables I thought were for the lcd and the digitizer, and those cables are just fine. I have checked them and rechecked them. They are working normally. Even touch control is working fine.
The only thing causing issue is spen. The spen works on small sections of the screen, and the calibration is completely off. If I touch the small sports it works in (and those spots dont always works) it will act like I am hitting a completely random part of the screen.
The only connector that is broken is the one I pictured. When I was trying to play with the connector to inspect it, more of it broke off easily and the spen seems to become less responsive.
I am also wondering about the exact configuration of that connector. It seems like there are connections that are on the broken part. The underside of the top part of the connection seemed to have metallic striping on it, and when the cable is inserted you can clearly see metallic prongs trying to connect to the top part.
My assumption is the the flex cable is serving to connect to the base connector that it lays on, and then there are spots where signal is transmitted through curved prongs to the topside of the cable where it connected to the missing part of the connector.
Since the LCD is working normlly otherwise, I can only assume that it has to be for some other purpose other than the LCD.
Of course, its hard to say. Its possible that the connector you pictures is simply bad and needs replacing, or that the motherboard has an issue, or something.
I just wish I knew so I could pinpoint it, get a replacement part, and fix it.
Thank you for your input, too. It is appreciated

dkaardal said:
Are you talking about the actual port the Flexible Flat Cable (or ribbon cable) goes into? I don't have my tablet here at the office, but if you're asking about how to replace the actual port/connector itself (that thing the ribbon cable plugs into), then I would imagine you'd be looking at some very delicate soldering to remove it, and even more fussy work to replace it. Soldering or desolering SMT components isn't for the faint of heart - or coffee addicts.
I can't quite see which part is broken though. Is it on the connector near where pin 45 is on the ribbon cable? If it's just the part of the connector that helps to hold the black 'hinge' down that locks in the ribbon cable once it's inserted, then you should be able to close the hinge and then tape it shut. You might need a bit of positive pressure against the hinge (a very LITTLE bit), which you could achieve by taping the hinge down and then sliding a thin sliver of plastic between the tape and the hinge. This would just be for testing purposes of course - if closing the hinge and taping it down does result in your pen working again, then at least you'd know exactly what the issue was.
If I've misunderstood the problem then just let me know.
Donovan.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This image might be a little better (same image, but circled)
Basically, as my just recent posting says, the beige connector is whats broken. The flex cable is perfectly fine, and then black hingle works perfectly fine to hold everything in place. Whats broken is the beige part. There are metal prongs the go undr and over the flex ribbon after it is inserted. You can see some of them in the picture. Since the cable does not have connectors on the top of it, I can only assume that the prongs on the top are actually starting from a connection to the ribbon on the bottom, and looping up to the top and should contact with a broken part of the connector, but because it is missing, that part is not getting a signal.
I was told in another threat that this connector also controls spen pessure and other attributes. So I am assuming the the underside is for image and the top side is for s pen.
However, I could be completely wrong and the prongs could be nothing more than just a way to hold it in place.
As a side note, I did originally just assume this was a display only cable and used electrical tape to prevent any shorts or anything, but it made no difference with anything.

I confirm that each cable: touchscreen, S Pen, and LCD works independently. Top left is touchscreen, top right is S Pen. LCD cable is above the battery.
-Disconnect the top left cable ( touchscreen ): your screen will not response to touch but S pen
-Disconnect the top right cable ( S Pen ): your screen will not response to S Pen but touch by finger.
-Disconnect the LCD cable: you will see the black screen, but your screen will response to touch or S Pen. If connected to TV via HDMI adapter, your tablet will response to whatever you do on the display of TV.

Beut said:
I confirm that each cable: touchscreen, S Pen, and LCD works independently. Top left is touchscreen, top right is S Pen. LCD cable is above the battery.
-Disconnect the top left cable ( touchscreen ): your screen will not response to touch but S pen
-Disconnect the top right cable ( S Pen ): your screen will not response to S Pen but touch by finger.
-Disconnect the LCD cable: you will see the black screen, but your screen will response to touch or S Pen. If connected to TV via HDMI adapter, your tablet will response to whatever you do on the display of TV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the additional information
I was able to get it fixed, thanks to the help.
I had detached and reattached all connections I could, including the s pen flex cable, trying to make sure everything was set properly, and I was still having issues. Finally, after unplugging it and plugging it back in while the tablet was turned on, it works fine now. I can only assume it was not all the way in, even though it appeared to be and was held securely, or the fact that the tablet was turned on may have help if there was an issue with power getting to that cable. Either way, it works now.
I hope it keeps working, but it all seems to be working fine now.

You can confirm your S Pen function in factory mode, no calibration, just Pass or Fail
Use calculator
(+30012012732+
Then
*#0*#
Use the Wacom test to see your S Pen work normally, besides there are many other tests for hardware components.