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Stock headphone mod

I couldn't stand the stock headphones as they just would not stay in my ear, and I can't use them at work because they don't do noise isolation. I really liked idea of the inline remote and wanted to be able to use it with any set of headphones I want. So I chopped the earbuds off and added a jack in their place. Worked like a charm.

Good idea, I might do the same with my old etymotics!
How did you reconnect the wires though? Weaving them, or soldering?

Great Idea! tutorials woutld be even better for he less knowledgeable ones! lulz n.n

I'm trying to do the same thing and thought I knew what I was doing. Here's where I am... Any pointers?

more images and a few tips at http://irregular-expression.com
sorry for the site, it's pretty raw right now.

Flandro said:
I'm trying to do the same thing and thought I knew what I was doing. Here's where I am... Any pointers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Soldering the headphone wire to the same stuff is going to be a royal PITA, this guys blog post goes a little bit more into that. I would recommend getting a jack that has solder points. Would probably be a little easier.

i guess my real question is wich wires go to which wires? color of wire to which corresponding color.

The copper wires are ground, the green is left and the red is right on the n1 headphones. I'm not sure what the colors correspond to on your jack, but I imagine they are the same. You'll need to connect both the left and right ground wires to the ground wire on the headphone jack.

So basically cut open the 2 ends and splice/soder the corresponding colors together and thats it?
Does anyone know if the G1 adapter (it is a mini usb that ends in a 3.5 female jack) would work?

Ssantos6981 said:
So basically cut open the 2 ends and splice/soder the corresponding colors together and thats it?
Does anyone know if the G1 adapter (it is a mini usb that ends in a 3.5 female jack) would work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as it's stereo, there'll be 3 wires. 1 L, 1 R, and a common ground. So yes, it should work in theory, however, I don't know if there are any additional wires in there for the USB portion (I doubt it, but there are stranger things out there).
Personally, I'd go to RadioShack and buy the female end that you can solder on. It'll look more professional. I just put one of their male ones on a set of Senheisser headphones that I busted the plug on.

Flandro said:
I'm trying to do the same thing and thought I knew what I was doing. Here's where I am... Any pointers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, you need to connect the wires together.
That much of a gap and the sound will be terrible........

I took a different approach.
I took apart the remote control portion of the remote control (just pop the three buttons off with your fingernails).
Removed the little circuit board inside by cutting the heat glue and prising up with a flat bladed screwdriver (carefully).
Be careful as the loose parts you should have are 3 buttons, 1 button membrane and MAYBE the little gauze from the microphone may come out.
Peal off the heat glue at the head phones end and desolder the four pads holding the headphones on. MAKE A NOTE OF THE COLOURS.
Took an old pair of in ear headphones and cut the cable to the right length.
Stripped back the cable and, because I am not sure how to strip the headphone stuff cleanly I held the cables in a pair of flat pliers to protect it from the heat and left 5 mm showing and hit them with a blow torch to burn away the insulation. I then tinned the ends and trimmed to 1.5mm.
Desolder properly the 4 pads on the board (use desolder braid, its magic).
BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE HEADPHONES IN MAKE SURE YOU THREAD THEM THROUGH THE HOLE IN THE REMOTE FIRST.
Solder the ear phone connectors back to the board, from memory with the earphones coming towards you and the plug away from your the connectors are GROUND - LEFT - RIGHT - GROUND. it should be a simple case of getting it in position and touching with a soldering iron for about half a second.
Apply a smudge of hot glue to the board to hold wires in place AND WAIT TO COOL. trim if needed. Push board back into place and hot glue the cables to the interior of the remote.
Looking again at another set I suppose you can glue the cables and the board all in one go when assembled.
If you don't have hot glue then I suppose a drop of super glue will work but use sparingly.
Pop membrane back on and clip buttons back over.
Enjoy inner ear comfort.

Nice mod, those look good
One of my favorite things about the jack is that I can use it in the car too. Really makes changing songs while driving a breeze.

rockyxda said:
I took a different approach.
I took apart the remote control portion of the remote control (just pop the three buttons off with your fingernails).
Removed the little circuit board inside by cutting the heat glue and prising up with a flat bladed screwdriver (carefully).
Be careful as the loose parts you should have are 3 buttons, 1 button membrane and MAYBE the little gauze from the microphone may come out.
Peal off the heat glue at the head phones end and desolder the four pads holding the headphones on. MAKE A NOTE OF THE COLOURS.
Took an old pair of in ear headphones and cut the cable to the right length.
Stripped back the cable and, because I am not sure how to strip the headphone stuff cleanly I held the cables in a pair of flat pliers to protect it from the heat and left 5 mm showing and hit them with a blow torch to burn away the insulation. I then tinned the ends and trimmed to 1.5mm.
Desolder properly the 4 pads on the board (use desolder braid, its magic).
BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE HEADPHONES IN MAKE SURE YOU THREAD THEM THROUGH THE HOLE IN THE REMOTE FIRST.
Solder the ear phone connectors back to the board, from memory with the earphones coming towards you and the plug away from your the connectors are GROUND - LEFT - RIGHT - GROUND. it should be a simple case of getting it in position and touching with a soldering iron for about half a second.
Apply a smudge of hot glue to the board to hold wires in place AND WAIT TO COOL. trim if needed. Push board back into place and hot glue the cables to the interior of the remote.
Looking again at another set I suppose you can glue the cables and the board all in one go when assembled.
If you don't have hot glue then I suppose a drop of super glue will work but use sparingly.
Pop membrane back on and clip buttons back over.
Enjoy inner ear comfort.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a VERY NICE mod.
However I might go one further.
If I do this I think I'm going to leave a 3.5mm female jack out that way I can use any headphones..!!

I did the same thing as rockyxda. I used earbuds, because they are much more comfortable for me (plus they have great sound plus they block surrounding noise). I made a couple of snap shot to aid any one that wants to do the same.
Picture 1:
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That's how the remote's insides look like after popping buttons of. At the top you see the three buttons and the button membrane.
Picture 2:
That's how I lifted the circuit board from the remote's body. I used a small knife to gently pry up the side with the earphones attached.
Picture 3:
That's how the board looked after desoldering the old earphones and soldering the earbuds. Connections you see are +R and +L (above in this picture) - these are the right (usually red wire) and left (usually green wire) earphone wires. Connections below those are -L and -R - these are the common stereo ground (usually white or blue wire) and both contacts are the same so it doesn't matter which one you choose. Oh, and as rockyxda said, don't forget to thread wires through the remote body's holes first!
Picture 4:
The circuit board reinserted in the body.
Picture 5:
Final result. Rocking and rolling!

Nice!!

Sexy!
If I have any trouble out of mine and need to re do it, I will probably solder some wires directly to the board out to a female jack. Screw soldering headphone wires!

jairuncaloth said:
Sexy!
If I have any trouble out of mine and need to re do it, I will probably solder some wires directly to the board out to a female jack. Screw soldering headphone wires!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Amen to that! I've just done the earbud splicing into the remote, and I've come to the conclusion that my eyesight isn't as good as it used to be. Damn those pads are small.
Headphone wires are a pain to work with. I ended up stripping mine with a small butane torch.
Still, it's done now and working perfectly.

Well here's my mod, finally got around to it.
I didn't strip the wires either, I let the soldering iron do that!
Works flawlessly and now I can attach ANY headphones to my Dopod connection
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Amdathlonuk/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCMe9gvb5uLL5NQ#5440408503519704690

Nice mod there Amdathlonuk. I tried to strip those wires too but I also ended up just soldering them (with a huge industrial iron) half-stripped.
And I'm not particulary good at soldering either. I once melted a hole through a mouse's logic board with the same iron.

HTC Sensation 4G Screen Take Apart Repair Guide

This written repair guide will assist you in taking apart your HTC Sensation as well as replacing damaged or broken parts on your phone. Follow each step as listed to be able to safely install new parts on your phone, such as a touch screen digitizer or other parts.
This guide will help you install the following HTC Sensation part (s):
HTC Sensation 4G Touch Screen Digitizer
HTC Sensation 4G LCD Display Screen
HTC Sensation 4G Mic Flex Cable
HTC Sensation 4G Volume Flex Cable
And Other Sensation 4G Replacement Parts
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Torx Screwdriver
T3 Torx Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips (For Touch Screen Replacements)
Hot Air Gun / Hair Dryer
HTC Sensation take apart/repair guide:
Remove the back battery cover by pressing in the button that will loosen the cover. Remove the cover using your fingers, and then you can easily remove the back battery.
Remove the six tiny T5 Torx screws using your Torx screwdriver and set aside .
Then, using your open safe pry tool, you can easily pry apart the back housing of the phone from the front housing, starting at one end and working your way slowly around the phone.
Using Torx screwdriver, remove screw as shown in figure 1.
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Figure 1​
Carefully lift tape at the edge of the motherboard, and unclip any clips that are holding any ribbons, etc. in place. These will often appear as flat pieces of metal, but are sometimes an actual ribbon, such as the camera ribbon cable.
Then, you can use the open safe pry tool (included free with the replacement parts) to remove the camera ribbon cable off its socket in the motherboard.
Now you can remove the motherboard, careful not to damage any ribbons or cables in the process. Use the open safe pry tool where it will help to separate the two, and use your nippers to lift the tape and disconnect the antenna wire, as shown in figure 2.
Figure 2​
Once the motherboard is separated from the frame, you will need to remove the ribbon flex cable that connects the two. Remove the tape that covers it and then carefully remove this cable without ripping it.
After removing this cable, you will have the motherboard completely separated from the LCD screen and touch screen digitizer. To begin removal of the touch screen, you will need to use your hot air gun or hair dryer to heat the glue on the edges of the phone.
Once heated well enough to loosen the glue, use the safe pry tool to slide along all edges of the phone and separate the screen from its housing. Take your time, and slowly separate as you slide along the edges.
When they are officially separated, the flex cable beneath the touch screen will become disengaged from the screen. You can carefully remove it by sliding it through the hole as shown in figure 3.
Figure 3​
At the other end of the phone, there is tape/glue that holds the screen in place. Carefully use your pry tool to separate the two pieces.
If replacing the LCD screen, you can continue with the take-apart, and the next step is to heat the entire back of the LCD screen.
Just as with the touch screen digitizer, you will use the pry tool to carefully follow all edges and separate the cables as necessary as you go.
Now you will be able to replace any parts on your HTC Sensation. Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.

how about dealing with screen response lag after replacing the digitizer?
My screen is noticeably more harder to detect any touches and has a distinct lag.....

You need to make sure that the metal prong on the inner left side of the phone has a good contact with the battery door/back plate
see post:http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1239238

made a slight improvement but not much....
I still cannot use the first 50mm of the left hand side of the screen....

taffypride said:
made a slight improvement but not much....
I still cannot use the first 50mm of the left hand side of the screen....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably a connection issue.If you can do it check if the digitizer connector is properly inserted(or have someone check it for you).If its ok you can also try different kernel.

Agreed. Likely a connection issue. Make sure it is fully inserted all the way and square.

HTC Sensation Z710e LCD issue
Hi, Thank you for taking the time to write this guide, i used it to replace a broken digitiser, it was is very useful. However, after following I have come across a problem. Now the phone is in one piece I have a problem with the screen. 3/4 of the screen from left tomright works but is discoloured. It seems to change through a cycle of reds, yellows, blues and greens. The right hand 1/4 has normal colour but has several vertical black lines running from top to bottom. The digitiser works and I can cycle through apps and settings. During the removal of the broken screen I unfortunately snapped the microphone flex cable and had to purchase another. The replacement I bought was slightly different. The original had a white ribbon that sat behind the screen, the replacement did not. Would this somehow cause the above fault? I know that I have not damaged any other part of the phone at all so I'm confused as to what could be causing it. Any help would be appreciated.

Photo for the above
Post 2, 6 to go before I can photo bucket.

Post 3
!!!

Any damage to the device can cause issues such as this. There could be a number of reasons your device is not functioning properly. If you do not have the correct screen, if there is a flex cable that is not connected securely, or if the part is defective, then these could be leading causes of the symptoms you are seeing. Hope this helps, good luck!

do you need glue or anything to put the digitizer back on?

able to reuse
vincent1190 said:
do you need glue or anything to put the digitizer back on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was abloe to reuse the adhesive tape that surrounds the border of the phone/holds the digitizer in place. But you may be able to order the adhesive tape. I would not recommend glue.
---------- Post added at 07:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 PM ----------
I have a question about the replacement of the digitizer. I have replaced the digitizer successfully 2 times on the HTC Sensation 4G. The screen is very responsive and works great. However, the 4 buttons on the bottom of the digitizer do not light up (home, menu, back, and search). Also, I have to press directly above those buttons to get them to work/function. When I press onto them, they do not recognize me pressing them.
Is there any way I can order a new part, I am not sure what it is called but appears to be a ribbon that sits underneath this portion of the digitizer? Any help would be appreciated, thanks

beactivelife said:
I was abloe to reuse the adhesive tape that surrounds the border of the phone/holds the digitizer in place. But you may be able to order the adhesive tape. I would not recommend glue.
---------- Post added at 07:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 PM ----------
I have a question about the replacement of the digitizer. I have replaced the digitizer successfully 2 times on the HTC Sensation 4G. The screen is very responsive and works great. However, the 4 buttons on the bottom of the digitizer do not light up (home, menu, back, and search). Also, I have to press directly above those buttons to get them to work/function. When I press onto them, they do not recognize me pressing them.
Is there any way I can order a new part, I am not sure what it is called but appears to be a ribbon that sits underneath this portion of the digitizer? Any help would be appreciated, thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
The ribbon in this area is the mic flex cable which does not contain the lights. I believe the lights are on the motherboard on this model.

The keypad button LED's on the Sensation can be found of the flex cable located under the keys. Unlike other HTC models, the Sensation does not use LED feeds to transfer the light. The keypad flex itself can be easily replaced.

Been there, now what?
Thanks to Paul for his written description of how to repair the digitizer/LCD. It may be him who also posted the helpful video concerning HTC Sensation digitizer/display replacement on Youtube...
I bought a "for parts" phone that was advertised as needing digitizer replacement. When I got it, the LCD display wouldn't turn on (not even the backlight), but I knew the phone was turning on at least to some extent (vibration, bottom-of-screen buttons lighting up).
I ordered a new digitizer and LCD display. The new LCD display arrived yesterday and last evening I just plugged in the new display into motherboard assembly, held the battery against the contacts, and got the phone to power on to the point of displaying the htc logo and then the htc "quietly brilliant" logo (I didn't hold the battery long enough to see anything past that).
Today I installed the new LCD display and the new digitizer. I am pretty sure I did a good job of putting things together - I made sure all the cables were squarely in the jawbone connectors and so on.
Now with the phone fully reassembled, when I press the power button, the display does not come on. Every 18 seconds the phone will vibrate (boot loop?). The phone does not show up at all in the computer's USB device tree when connected to the computer via USB. If I hold the "volume down" button, the phone stops doing the vibrate-every-18-seconds dealio.
Any suggestions what to try next?
Thanks,
Elliot

eclee said:
Thanks to Paul for his written description of how to repair the digitizer/LCD. It may be him who also posted the helpful video concerning HTC Sensation digitizer/display replacement on Youtube...
I bought a "for parts" phone that was advertised as needing digitizer replacement. When I got it, the LCD display wouldn't turn on (not even the backlight), but I knew the phone was turning on at least to some extent (vibration, bottom-of-screen buttons lighting up).
I ordered a new digitizer and LCD display. The new LCD display arrived yesterday and last evening I just plugged in the new display into motherboard assembly, held the battery against the contacts, and got the phone to power on to the point of displaying the htc logo and then the htc "quietly brilliant" logo (I didn't hold the battery long enough to see anything past that).
Today I installed the new LCD display and the new digitizer. I am pretty sure I did a good job of putting things together - I made sure all the cables were squarely in the jawbone connectors and so on.
Now with the phone fully reassembled, when I press the power button, the display does not come on. Every 18 seconds the phone will vibrate (boot loop?). The phone does not show up at all in the computer's USB device tree when connected to the computer via USB. If I hold the "volume down" button, the phone stops doing the vibrate-every-18-seconds dealio.
Any suggestions what to try next?
Thanks,
Elliot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This sounds like a connection issue with the LCD. I suggest double checking the ribbons for security. Make sure they are locked in place. You also want to check for damages such as rips or pinches in the cables while you have the device open.

Do you carry the fused screen assembly for this device?

Yes we do actually!

eclee said:
Thanks to Paul for his written description of how to repair the digitizer/LCD. It may be him who also posted the helpful video concerning HTC Sensation digitizer/display replacement on Youtube...
I bought a "for parts" phone that was advertised as needing digitizer replacement. When I got it, the LCD display wouldn't turn on (not even the backlight), but I knew the phone was turning on at least to some extent (vibration, bottom-of-screen buttons lighting up).
I ordered a new digitizer and LCD display. The new LCD display arrived yesterday and last evening I just plugged in the new display into motherboard assembly, held the battery against the contacts, and got the phone to power on to the point of displaying the htc logo and then the htc "quietly brilliant" logo (I didn't hold the battery long enough to see anything past that).
Today I installed the new LCD display and the new digitizer. I am pretty sure I did a good job of putting things together - I made sure all the cables were squarely in the jawbone connectors and so on.
Now with the phone fully reassembled, when I press the power button, the display does not come on. Every 18 seconds the phone will vibrate (boot loop?). The phone does not show up at all in the computer's USB device tree when connected to the computer via USB. If I hold the "volume down" button, the phone stops doing the vibrate-every-18-seconds dealio.
Any suggestions what to try next?
Thanks,
Elliot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same problem after a screen repair by my insurance....
send it back and got the phone in the same way back.
Internet tought me that it was indeed a connection fault so i banged my phone on the floor .
and viola it works
This was i think pure luck.

repairsuniverse said:
Yes we do actually!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you carry the Sharp model LCD? I'm in the process of returning my defective AUO screen & looking for a Sharp screen

So I took it apart... Here's how it went.

So a bought my tablet, without the dock. Being a modder/hacker/tweaker, I knew I had to root and learn the flash process specific to my device ASAP.
Horrified to find that I would lose my warranty, and that I would be on my own from that moment when I would have unlocked it an beyond.
So I hesitated... For a week... and unlocked, rooted, and flashed a couple ROMs. All is well.
Fast forward 4 months...
I started getting issues with the touch screen on my device. I was heartbroken. I knew that nobody would fix it, despite it being a hardware defect of some kind.
The issue I was having was the "Ghost Touches" which would swipe up and down rapidly and randomly on the left half of the screen.
It would happen seemingly at random, and progressively became so bad that I couldn't use my TF700 any longer.
Shelving it for a few weeks, I finally became inspired and motivated to try to fix it myself, or at least discover wtf was wrong with it.
I found that pressing on the bottom of the tablet (the sections that surround the screen itself) would actually make the problem go away, but also make half of my screen unresponsive until I screen locked/unlocked it.
That made me feel that it was software related seeing that a simple lock/unlock via the top left button would make it stop for a few seconds, but this wasn't the case despite this glaring fact.
So I knew I had to open it, and I had no resources, couldn't find any videos, no information on opening this thing was available, at least at the time.
The steps I took were:
1) Turning off the device of course.
2) Flipped it over and with a flashlight looked down into the two slots for mounting it on the dock.
2a) I peeled away the squishy stickery thingy from each slot.
2b) There are little circles, one in each, that using something sturdy, you must slide to the tablet's left. (I used a nail...)
3) Using some kind of plastic yet sturdy wedge, you must unsnap all of the clasps under the screen to free it.
3a) I used a guitar pick, starting from one of the slots on the bottom, I ran the pick around the edges of the screen after carefully forcing it between the aluminium case and the glass.
3b) With somewhat violent prying motions I was able to free all of the snaps. (You need not unsnap the top side, only the bottom, left, and right sides. If I recall correctly)
4) There's 2 ribbons, they're sneaky, one is copper colored, the other is white. The white one is the scary one.
I turned on my tablet at this point, everything worked fine, I was VERY thankful at that point.
Now I looked around on the inside of the device and noticed that the point where the copper ribbon meets the digitizer/lcd screen was dented a bit, and when I ran my finger across it, the phantom touch problem went absolutely crazy. Bingo.
I found the pressing the ribbon flat against the screen, and firmly holding it in place fixed the problem.
So with a piece of tape I found next to me, I carefully rolled the tape over the dented area of the ribbon, and firmly secured the ribbon to the back of the screen preventing it from moving at all.
Upon reassembling my device, all has worked well, though when I shake the tablet, or press on certain points (takes a fair bit of pressure, nothing you'd ever do intentionally) the "Ghost Touch" comes back, but is easily remedied by a quick lock/unlock. This happens only once or twice a week at best, and I use this tablet HEAVILY.
Sorry for the messy post, and the lack of pictures, I didn't take any, and am not doing this again until I have to.
I really hope anyone who read this can gain from it.
Regards,
~HNx

That is some good info there.
Thanks for taking the time to put that together. I'm sure this will be very useful/helpful to those with similar/same symptoms.
Good job on doing it on your own like that. :thumbup:
Sent from my ADR6400L using xda app-developers app

Wow thank you for the post very very much.
I have had the ghost touch problem ever since the start, but it only came about with the dock connected. Through trial and error i figured that the dock is pressing on the bottom of the screen when you open/close it and causes persistent ghost touch. Simple on/off screen would fix it until i adjust the dock angle again. Never had it without dock connected.
Mine is also unlocked so no warranty. Although i am planning to rma the dock as its started to make clicking noises when open/closes.
Will definitely do your fix soon. How long would you say the whole process took you the first time?
Any idea what is causing the ghosting after the fix? My thought is that it was the gorilla glass bending that was creating some interference inside of it, hope i'm wrong.
Also, since we are on the fixing it from the inside page, the clicking noises (i get slight ones if i press/squeeze by audio jack), could they be fixed with some filing. ?
And the big one, could we solder on / replace the inner sdcard chip? perhaps hack a flash/ssd in there if possible?

There are pictures of the TF700's internal components on the iFixIt web site.
I don't think you can replace a BGA chip without damaging the board.

Took me a while to get to it but i opened her up today.
Firstly i recently received my dock back from RMA because the left top corner kept opening up when i tilt the tablet and i had to press on dock to click it back together. RMA people sent it back saying "works as intended, no problems found" with an added touch of removing right side rubber protector (left and bottom still there). Thank you for that..
So i decided to take matter in my own hands and lifted the top left rubber foothold of the dock only to find the warranty "void" screw just fall out... apparently it was never screwed in. OK easy fix, touch of screwdriver and dock is now better than new. Nice quality control there ASUS.
So now excited with first fix, i got to the tablet.
The ghost touch has been plaguing me with the dock attached every time.
I had tf700 unlocked to get the extra performance due to slow flash so no warranty.
Used 2 guitar picks, managed to get the screen off no problems. Tested if it still works, fine there too.
As noted by OP, the orange ribbon causes ghost touches as you press on it.
The white ribbon was in the way so I unplugged it from the screen.
This is the trouble causing area:
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It was obviously insecurely connected to the touch screen. I tried to stuff some tinfoil to the edges to hold in better, however, upon testing my solution, had a fatal (to the screen) accident.
The white ribbon killed lcd power and I couldnt tell if device was on (which it was). Upon attempting to connect the ribbon back, some contacts touch other contacts on the connector, small electrical flash, and lcd screen is dead... :crying:
tablet still works with dock and hdmi out:
Well since screen was broken already i decided to remove it from the touch glass to further investigate the ghost touch.
This is the problem, the orange ribbon was just glued to the touch screen (pressed between 2 screens) and has no secure connection hold. perhaps the glue unglued or air bubbles get in the way or the 2 screens not hold it tightly enough. It is obviously a design fault.
Whoever decided to use this method and then use same badly secured connection area to apply force to keyboard dock to open/close the device, did poor job...
Sure it is my fault i ruined the screen but i cant help but to feel cheated from ASUS.
I loved the idea of transformer tablet and was a very loyal ASUS fan. Bought it first month it came out, used for a year already.
They advertized a premium top of the line product, use a cheap memory solution which makes customers unlock and
void warranty. And when design failures arise, well, you are on your own.
Every TF700 tablet has this "ghost touch" problem, by design. Some may be better than others. It is just a failed product execution.
Not sure what i will do with the tablet now, have mixed feelings about it.
But as a long time ASUS customer / fan, can no longer recommend their products. Their new "direction" of passing bad designs as premium products, just not what I expected.
0.02

upon further review, the lcd connection wire had some pins burned out from the short, so hopefully lcd screen is alive.
[EDIT]
WOW they sell from china for 45 dollars!! for a tiny piece of wire like that...
anyone with a broken/replacement lcd which has a working wire be willing to salvage/sell theirs?

Just as an update, I've yet to need to take my TF700 apart again. The "Ghost Touch" problem hasactually gone away entirely even with
pressure applied to the effected areas.
Further I've tracked the problem down to the tablet getting hot, very hot. As dankens points out, the glue is all that holds the ribbon in place. It's my suspicion that the glue becomes loose. The ribbon most likely shifts a bit at this point, and the problem arises.
Be careful tf700 owners, once it starts, it doesn't just go away.
dankens said:
upon further review, the lcd connection wire had some pins burned out from the short, so hopefully lcd screen is alive.
[EDIT]
WOW they sell from china for 45 dollars!! for a tiny piece of wire like that...
anyone with a broken/replacement lcd which has a working wire be willing to salvage/sell theirs?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First I'd like to apologize if my post played any role in the eventual damaging of your tablet.
I hate to see such an expensive device broken.
You said it was just some burnt out pins that are problem. I'm pretty sure that I could repair it if you havn't yet bought a new screen.
If you're interested, you can drop me an email -- [email protected]

Well, i went out and got the parts from china/ebay, i think they ship them on wales from china because it took forever!
Started off with the damn white ribbon which cost me $41 for a 4 inch piece of wire!!
LCD was still dead, so i figured it got fried as well. new LCD (no digitizer) cost another $88. After assembling (now i make sure the battery is unplugged first thing, and connected last) i could see the lcd lamp turn on but screen was black.
Next to go was the mobo (i think GPU fried as well), they dont really sell those much, cheapest one was $80 (refurbished).
connected all and viola, back to normal. cost of parts: 209, worth it? not sure.
Definitely a learning experience, damn parts cost more than the tablet itself.
Looking forward to Dell Venue 11 pro (i5 version).

dankens said:
Well, i went out and got the parts from china/ebay, i think they ship them on wales from china because it took forever!
Started off with the damn white ribbon which cost me $41 for a 4 inch piece of wire!!
LCD was still dead, so i figured it got fried as well. new LCD (no digitizer) cost another $88. After assembling (now i make sure the battery is unplugged first thing, and connected last) i could see the lcd lamp turn on but screen was black.
Next to go was the mobo (i think GPU fried as well), they dont really sell those much, cheapest one was $80 (refurbished).
connected all and viola, back to normal. cost of parts: 209, worth it? not sure.
Definitely a learning experience, damn parts cost more than the tablet itself.
Looking forward to Dell Venue 11 pro (i5 version).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For those of you who will attempt to fix the same problem reported in the OP, my 2 cents:
1. After you successfully open the tab, but BEFORE doing anything, turn off the switch in the area circled red in the attached thumbs. This will cut off all electrical current to the components and prevent accidental shorts. It's called "service switch" for that reason;
2. The information given earlier about how the ribbon was bonded to the glass was incorrect. So I deleted that part. I examined under a microscope and it appeared a chemical strip of some kind was applied to the glass for bonding. Apparently, it worked in my case since I put a piece of kapton tape where the ribbon came off the glass, More likely, it was a part of the ribbon that had no function in the operation of the touchscreen. Thus, there ain't no way one can re-bond it once the ribbon's ripped off the glass, undamaged though it might be.

It looks like I'm having the same issue, but I'm confused about where to put the tape. Should I be removing the digitizer for this? Does the tape go RIGHT WHERE the ribbon connects to the glass? Or do I simply fold the ribbon over top of the computer chips on the back of the digitizer and do it there and tape it there?

jneuffer said:
It looks like I'm having the same issue, but I'm confused about where to put the tape. Should I be removing the digitizer for this? Does the tape go RIGHT WHERE the ribbon connects to the glass? Or do I simply fold the ribbon over top of the computer chips on the back of the digitizer and do it there and tape it there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope someone can answer this. I can't figure out where to put the tape from all these posts either. I am about to embark on this journey. I have never disassembled a tablet or smartphone before. I am not that scared because I haven't really used this tablet due to all the problems I have had with it and have moved on the the Nexus 7. I would like to have it back in service though since now it is unusable due to the ghost touches.
Edit:
This might be the info I was looking for from a post above. Thanks.
"So with a piece of tape I found next to me, I carefully rolled the tape over the dented area of the ribbon, and firmly secured the ribbon to the back of the screen preventing it from moving at all."

echardcore said:
I hope someone can answer this. I can't figure out where to put the tape from all these posts either. I am about to embark on this journey. I have never disassembled a tablet or smartphone before. I am not that scared because I haven't really used this tablet due to all the problems I have had with it and have moved on the the Nexus 7. I would like to have it back in service though since now it is unusable due to the ghost touches.
Edit:
This might be the info I was looking for from a post above. Thanks.
"So with a piece of tape I found next to me, I carefully rolled the tape over the dented area of the ribbon, and firmly secured the ribbon to the back of the screen preventing it from moving at all."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I successfully opened it up and taped the white and gold wires down but the problem didnt go away. I am able to reproduce it more now though. I didnt tape the gold wire to the edge of the screen because when I pressed on that with the unit on it didn't cause the issue. I was able to make it happen while opened by touching the gold wire near where the problem spot seems to be but not on it.
Wondering if I build up a protective bump of material like tape inside so the case cant be compressed to cause the issue if that will help. I refuse to send it anywhere or purchase parts. I've spent too much time and effort on this thing. Really sucks to have a tablet that I cant use. I guess I could sell it on ebay for parts.

I'm going to keep bumping this as I discover more.
So I took it apart again trying to rig it up to work.
I found that the gold cable doesn't like being bent the way it is bent from the factory. If you straighten it out and fiddle with it, the ghost touches go away. I have been doing all my testing with the tablet powered on making sure not to disconnect anything. This way I can really get a feel for what is causing the ghost touches. If you intend on doing this look for the service switch and shut it off. Its hard to find even though its right in the middle of everything.
Cable with "33" written on it is the issue. I cut away some of the black plastic they used to keep things neat.
Pulling away the problem cable for your viewing pleasure
Tried to add some foam padding which helped with the case open.
Too much padding to close the case. Might try again with less padding.

[GUIDE]HDC Galaxy S4 Legend Disassembly + Antenna Modifications!

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES ARE YOU PERMITTED TO REPOST ANY IMAGES OR TEXT FROM THIS GUIDE, DIGITALLY OR OTHERWISE, WITHOUT MY WRITTEN CONSENT.
I can only offer limited advice as I currently do not have an LCD. That said, I have a better understanding of the layout of the board now.
I have had several messages asking 'Where can I buy this part?' Unless it is already posted in this thread, I do not know where you can buy it.
Possible parts sellers: (I cannot confirm details are correct. Purchase at your own risk!)
LCD: http://s.taobao.com/search?q=fpc-a50...l-b&rsclick=13
An EXPERIMENTAL antenna guide can be found in this post: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=46020544&postcount=61
Results of this here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=46309271&postcount=68
I'm in the UK, using the O2 network so I do not know how it will affect US networks as they use a different frequency.
This guide is currently incomplete and will be updated as progress is made. Thanks to @henrykins111 and @PerisH-es for the helpful information.
Please note: This will void your warranty. I do not accept responsibility for this or any data loss or damage that may occur directly or indirectly as a result of attempting to follow any of the steps in this guide. Please take care and follow these steps at your own risk.
Tools required for the disassembly:
- Small (2-3mm?) Phillips head screwdriver
- Plastic pry tool or thin guitar plectrum.
Firstly, remove the back case, battery, microSD card and SIM card. Put these safely to one side.
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Remove the 9 screws that surround the edges of the back of the phone. Put these in a small box or something, I've lost countless screws by just leaving them on the side.
Insert the plectrum (or pry tool) between the chrome and the brushed style sections of the phone. Take care not to use too much force or push the plectrum in too far as this could damage some of the ribbon cables, situated mostly towards the top of the phone.
You'll be left with two parts. The grey piece you just removed will have the ribbon antennas for wifi and cellular signal attached, as well as the loudspeaker and the camera lens and flash diffuser. The board is now also exposed.
To remove the camera, using the plectrum to carefully unplug the ribbon cable. The main camera unit can then be lifted out, but be aware that it is held down by some tape so be aware that a small amount of force may be required.
Now using the same method unplug the small black ribbon cable that is attached to the SIM and microSD card slots.
The card slots are held in with a little glue, and these can now be removed.
To remove the board, first undo the 2 screws located in opposite corners that hold it down. Make a note of their location as it is easy to confuse which holes to put them in. Then, remove this small strip of tape, being VERY careful not to tear the ribbon cables beneath.
Using the plectrum, you can now remove these. The bottom cable is a data cable that links to the bottom board and the top cable is the screen cable (I think - not sure)
Just above the socket for the SIM and microSD card slots is another socket. This has a small, black, hinged plastic tab that you must lift until it is 90degrees to the board. You can then slowly slide out the ribbon cable from the socket. Underneath this cable is another plug type socket. Unplug this.
Another antenna cable can now be removed. This can be quite stiff but be very careful not to dent the metal on the connections and also be aware that it is possible to pull the socket itself from the board.
After unplugging another small ribbon cable located on the top edge of the phone, the board can now be lifted. Lift the board as smoothly as possible, making sure to not tear any of the ribbon cables.
To remove the first infrared sensor and light sensor, simply pull it vertically out from the casing of the phone.
Just underneath the top of the headphone jack is a small indent in the white plastic. Use this to remove the headphone jack, but be careful not to apply to much force as joined by another thin ribbon cable is the LED and second infrared sensor. This may take some slight wriggling to remove as it is all held in with a small amount of glue.
Unplug the ribbon cable from the bottom left hand side of the board.
The other end of the metal antenna cable can now be unplugged. being careful of the components underneath and the round thing (microphone?) the board should now only be held in by a couple of strips of tape and a little glue.
The other side of the bottom board. This helps explain a few things. The round object connected via the wires appears to be the vibration motor. There are no numbers or letters written on it. Those of you having problems, it may simply be a broken connection on this wire, so it's worth checking.
The microphone is the small surface mounted silver box located next to the solder points for the wires.
The LCD/digitizer/glass assembly is now held in with a little glue. Use the plectrum to remove the screen. If it's stubborn, gently heat with a heat gun or hair dryer on low heat in a circular motion over the device. You may need to apply a small amount of pressure to the back of the LCD, where the battery would normally be. There is a risk of breaking it if you do this, but this won't matter if you're replacing it anyway.
NOTE: The LCD cables will not fit through the slot they are in without removing the small black divider to the right hand side of the slot, where the top speaker would be.
!Potentially important information!
As I broke the LCD I thought I would have a go at separating the LCD from the digitizer/glass. Turns out it is possible BUT almost impossible to do without breaking the LCD.
If your LCD is broken but your glass/digitizer is fine, then you could try removing it. The LCD is glued to the glass only around the edge. To remove it, you simply have to pull the LCD from the glue. Before you do this, be ABSOLUTELY sure that you are only pulling the LCD off and not the digitizer. The easiest way to check is to remove the LCD from the top down, as here you can use the ribbon cable as a reference to which layer is the digitizer. Picture of this to come.
As mentioned by @henrykins111, gently heating the screen and using a thin metal spudger or xacto knife will really help with this.

Nice, on wich picture can you see the vibration engine?

splashboy said:
Nice, on wich picture can you see the vibration engine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure where it is if I'm honest. I'll strip the phone down and power it up in parts to try and locate it.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

I was looking for the microphone part, i think in my phone it's defect and trying to repair it myself.
Maybe you have some shots of it?

Thanks for posting this. I'm also looking for the vibration engine as it seems to be faulty on mine, it stops working sometimes and shaking the phone a bit seems to fix it temporarily, which makes me think there's a loose connection. I'm also suffering from a poor wifi signal as I move away from the router - do you know where the wifi antenna is?

Original post has been updated with further information about the bottom board, microphone and vibration motor.
Firefly0 said:
do you know where the wifi antenna is?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It looks like the wifi antenna is the black cable with gold metal connections that runs down the right hand side (volume button side) and connects to the bottom board. This in turn connects to a grey flat ribbon style antenna which can be seen glued flat to the bottom of the phone simply by removeing the battery cover.
That said, I have the same problem. Different ROMs don't solve the problem. I'm wondering if it simply is weak, and maybe a strip of conductive tape or foil or similar on top of this antenna would help. Either that or have the complete opposite effect and it refelct signals around inside the phone. Might be worth a try though.

Really helpful, I thank you!

splashboy said:
Really helpful, I thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could offer something useful to the community :laugh:

Firefly0 said:
Thanks for posting this. I'm also looking for the vibration engine as it seems to be faulty on mine, it stops working sometimes and shaking the phone a bit seems to fix it temporarily, which makes me think there's a loose connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me know if you fixed it and how you did
Thanks!

Does anyone have any idea why I can't update the original post with images? If i copy the exact same code into a new post, it allows me to do it.
Example:

rynbrgss said:
Original post has been updated with further information about the bottom board, microphone and vibration motor.
It looks like the wifi antenna is the black cable with gold metal connections that runs down the right hand side (volume button side) and connects to the bottom board. This in turn connects to a grey flat ribbon style antenna which can be seen glued flat to the bottom of the phone simply by removeing the battery cover.
That said, I have the same problem. Different ROMs don't solve the problem. I'm wondering if it simply is weak, and maybe a strip of conductive tape or foil or similar on top of this antenna would help. Either that or have the complete opposite effect and it refelct signals around inside the phone. Might be worth a try though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. That sounds like it could work, let me know the results if you try it. I've messaged the seller I bought the phone from about the poor wifi signal to see if they have any advice, I'll post back if I have any luck.
splashboy said:
Let me know if you fixed it and how you did
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems to be OK now after shaking the phone a bit. Pulling out the battery also seemed to temporarily fix it once, but I think that may have just been a coincidence. I'll probably try opening it up if it stops working again to see if there is a loose connection.

Firefly0 said:
Thanks for the reply. That sounds like it could work, let me know the results if you try it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been having a play but no luck. I tried simply inserting a small strip of foil between the antenna and back case and no change. I then true different sizes an locations still the same. Even made an antenna from the foil that ran just love halfway up the phone and wired it into the pins on the board, and no significant change there either I'm afraid.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

rynbrgss said:
I've been having a play but no luck. I tried simply inserting a small strip of foil between the antenna and back case and no change. I then true different sizes an locations still the same. Even made an antenna from the foil that ran just love halfway up the phone and wired it into the pins on the board, and no significant change there either I'm afraid.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will be interesting, to see, if any parts from the real s4 are compatible with this legend, i see many users will pay an extra buck to replace de rear and front camera, and also the wifi, because these parts are relatively cheap..., in another angle, maybe someone will also wanted to change for the real s4 screen but i doubt that will be compatible .

I see many people with poor wifi, could an original flez cable be the solution?
ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Internal-Antenna-Signal-WIFI-Flex-Cable-Part-for-Samsung-Galaxy-S4-i9500-/290931180790?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item43bcd984f6

rynbrgss said:
Does anyone have any idea why I can't update the original post with images? If i copy the exact same code into a new post, it allows me to do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you have to load up the pictures again, not only try to link the pictures.
Thanks for your work on the Legend! :good:

Picture links fixed

lvieira76 said:
It will be interesting, to see, if any parts from the real s4 are compatible with this legend, i see many users will pay an extra buck to replace de rear and front camera, and also the wifi, because these parts are relatively cheap..., in another angle, maybe someone will also wanted to change for the real s4 screen but i doubt that will be compatible .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While the wifi flex replacement should fit, I can't see it making any real difference. The wifi antenna itself is different from the S4; on our phones there is a thin grey ribbon antenna underneath the battery. It looks just like a sticker but on the other side of it it has a thin copper circuit. This is what is potentially the problem as it may not be very well designed. (I'm no expert when it comes to antenna designs themselves).
I'd be reluctant to try the camera but if you do let us know how it goes. The same with the screen.

I think the wifi antenna is the antenna in the top. The little one at the right-corner. You can try with that.
I believe that the botton antenna is the mobile antenna (GSM).
Hope it helps.
@rynbrgss Did you get to check the lcd model?

i sure hope that someone gets an fix for wifi, because, i receive my legend today and didnt pick the wireless 10 meters away...lol

PerisH-es said:
I think the wifi antenna is the antenna in the top. The little one at the right-corner. You can try with that.
I believe that the botton antenna is the mobile antenna (GSM).
Hope it helps.
@rynbrgss Did you get to check the lcd model?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't, I need to work out how to get to it without damaging the phone.
Ill have a play with the other antenna too, thanks for the heads
up.
lvieira76 said:
i sure hope that someone gets an fix for wifi, because, i receive my legend today and didnt pick the wireless 10 meters away...lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried fluffy's Rom? That helped a lot wwith mine.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

[Q] Broken touchscreen, wacky random digitizer.

I'm sad to say I finally destroyed my TF300. It fell from about 6 feet onto tile. The screen is cracked in quite a few places, but luckily it didn't spiderweb. The touchscreen kind of works, I say kind of, because it's touching in random places all over the screen. So my question is, can I possibly unplug the digitizer only since the LCD works fine? That way I can use the keyboard dock's mouse or a USB mouse and still use the device. Thanks in advance for any help.

this happened to me as well. On youtube there are many tutorials of how to replace the screen..
they will show you how to take the back casing off
then you can just unplug the digitizer cable (its the yellow cable with two connections on the bottom right of the back of the tablet) this will disable the touch but if you go that far you might as well replace the whole screen you can get online for $50.
and make sure to take note of the digitizer revision number as asus makes 4 different types and only the one will work on your tablet when you want to fix it...its a number on the digitizer cable either g01 g02 g03 or one other i cant remember off the top of my head

schkeet said:
this happened to me as well. On youtube there are many tutorials of how to replace the screen..
they will show you how to take the back casing off
then you can just unplug the digitizer cable (its the yellow cable with two connections on the bottom right of the back of the tablet) this will disable the touch but if you go that far you might as well replace the whole screen you can get online for $50.
and make sure to take note of the digitizer revision number as asus makes 4 different types and only the one will work on your tablet when you want to fix it...its a number on the digitizer cable either g01 g02 g03 or one other i cant remember off the top of my head
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I meant that I didn't want to fix the display, just disable the digitizer so that I can continue to use the device via HDMI. If I unplug the digitizer, will the LCD still work?

After unplugging the ribbon cable for the digitizer, most of the random touches have stopped. But now, even using the built in touchpad or a USB mouse, touches do not hold and can cause random presses to occur in various parts of the screen. Any ideas?

I'm not sure but could be a different problem? I've done the same to mine and my keyboard dock works just fine

savergn said:
After unplugging the ribbon cable for the digitizer, most of the random touches have stopped. But now, even using the built in touchpad or a USB mouse, touches do not hold and can cause random presses to occur in various parts of the screen. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spontaneous presses? This is at random, some tabs have it, others don't. That ain't from the keyboard; rather from either the digitizer, though detached it might be, or the TS board, or both in close proximity with one another. I've experienced this and still have no idea why. I've had perfectly good dig and TS Board do it when the board is left dangling and not screwed down to the magnesium frame. The only way to stop is to replace the digitizer. Or you can try to yank the dig's ribbons off the glass, as I've noticed ghost touches produced by a dig with partially torn ribbons (on the glass side) that were still connected to the PCB. The dig is not repairable anyways. You're risking nothing.

graphdarnell said:
Spontaneous presses? This is at random, some tabs have it, others don't. That ain't from the keyboard; rather from either the digitizer, though detached it might be, or the TS board, or both in close proximity with one another. I've experienced this and still have no idea why. I've had perfectly good dig and TS Board do it when the board is left dangling and not screwed down to the magnesium frame. The only way to stop is to replace the digitizer. Or you can try to yank the dig's ribbons off the glass, as I've noticed ghost touches produced by a dig with partially torn ribbons (on the glass side) that were still connected to the PCB. The dig is not repairable anyways. You're risking nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you possibly have any photos or tutorials that might be able to help me out so I don't cause anymore damage to the tablet?

savergn said:
Do you possibly have any photos or tutorials that might be able to help me out so I don't cause anymore damage to the tablet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure where to start. If you've taken apart the thing before, i'd be easier. Remove the back. Turn off the service switch (Important). Otherwise, you might burn a coil on the motherboard. If you don't know what that is, look at the top of the motherboard. To the left of the power switch (thin amber ribbon for power on top side and volume on right side), there's a switch mounted on the other side but accessible from the top of the board. You'll see the printing "off" and "on" on this side. Slide it to "off" position. (Thumb attached shows location of switch at top, and where the ribbons should be cut off at bottom).
The ribbon part that's taped to the glass is hidden under the lcd. If you don't care, just snip it off where it meets the lcd edge. There's really no need to remove the lcd if you're not intent on replacing the digitizer. Again, since I am not certain what caused the ghost touches in your cases, it's possible they will continue. Hopefully, they won't. But at this point, the digitizer serves no function other than protecting the lcd surface on the outside. No need to save the ribbons.
To tell you the truth, I've tried using the tab with a dock and no touchscreen. You can live with it, but it's enormous inconvenience any way you use the device, from recoveries to roms to any app within. It's just not designed to be user-friendly that way. I eventually gave up and replaced the digitizer. You can find one for around $35.00 these days.

graphdarnell said:
Not sure where to start. If you've taken apart the thing before, i'd be easier. Remove the back. Turn off the service switch (Important). Otherwise, you might burn a coil on the motherboard. If you don't know what that is, look at the top of the motherboard. To the left of the power switch (thin amber ribbon for power on top side and volume on right side), there's a switch mounted on the other side but accessible from the top of the board. You'll see the printing "off" and "on" on this side. Slide it to "off" position. (Thumb attached shows location of switch at top, and where the ribbons should be cut off at bottom).
The ribbon part that's taped to the glass is hidden under the lcd. If you don't care, just snip it off where it meets the lcd edge. There's really no need to remove the lcd if you're not intent on replacing the digitizer. Again, since I am not certain what caused the ghost touches in your cases, it's possible they will continue. Hopefully, they won't. But at this point, the digitizer serves no function other than protecting the lcd surface on the outside. No need to save the ribbons.
To tell you the truth, I've tried using the tab with a dock and no touchscreen. You can live with it, but it's enormous inconvenience any way you use the device, from recoveries to roms to any app within. It's just not designed to be user-friendly that way. I eventually gave up and replaced the digitizer. You can find one for around $35.00 these days.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for the information.
I don't plan on using it as a daily device, I just picked up my Note 3 the other day, and using the TF300 is going to feel like going back to the stone age. I really just wanted it to have basic functionality, because I still have the HDMI cable for it, and have XBMC and VLC installed on it, so I can play videos easily on my TV. It has Cyanogenmod on it right now, so really, it should be fine for a while. I could probably also hook up my dualshock 3 to it and game on a TV. Portable low-end console. I'll update the thread later if whenever I get around to cutting the ribbon cable. Thanks again.