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How to make an audio adapter

Hi, I've been using an audio adapter from PocketPCTechs (http://www.pocketpctechs.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=PPCPADPT01) with my XDA 2... However, the microphone doesn't work with this. Even if I plug in a regular mono-headset with microphone, that part doesn't work.
So I thought I'd cut the stereo headphones off of the headset that's included and wire that up to a cassette player adapter. My problem is that the wires going to the headset speakers are coated with some kind of paint along with a fiber which makes it very difficult to make a connection with the wires in the cassette player adapter. I took it to an electronics repair shop to see if they could solder a 3.5mm female audio plug to that end, but they said they couldn't because of those types of wires.
Has anyone had success in modifying the included stereo headset to play through a car stereo while also retaining microphone functionality (for Voice Command or Phone calls)??

You will need to crimp some metal contacts onto the wires to make a good electrical conection, but you MUST do your soldering onto the crimps first otherwise you will just melt the wires off of the crimp,
The wires are special lightweight metal coated plastic filament designed to reduce weight and enhance audio since HF signals only travel in the outer edge or a wire

i used a stanley knife blade to carefully scrape the plastic off but the metal is so thin it just crumbles away and the solder connection doesnt stick that well to it either the stuff is just like factory made and this kinda stops you modding it what i done was use a 3310 h/f kit and cut that up and solder a 3.5mm end to it worked great
gaz

Does anybody know the assignments of the 4 conductors of the XDA II headset plug? I'm guessing that the tip of the plug is for the left speaker, the next conductor is for the right speaker, the next is for the microphone, and the last is the ground connection. Is this correct?

Jargon said:
Does anybody know the assignments of the 4 conductors of the XDA II headset plug? I'm guessing that the tip of the plug is for the left speaker, the next conductor is for the right speaker, the next is for the microphone, and the last is the ground connection. Is this correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No it isn't, the connector at the bottem is the same as the XDA 1 : http://www.xda-developers.com/connectors
On the XDA 1 audio out worked simultaneously with the internal speaker and mic. On the MDA/XDA 2 audio is rerouted to the bottemconnector if you ground Pin_19... The internal speaker and mic wil be disabled.
btw. i sucesfully managed to solder the previously mentioned wires... I went as far as opening a Nokia 8110 headset, rewire it internally and close the mic again You should carefully tin the wires before soldering them...

i recently did this also
when i bought my phone from t-mobile, i had my friend who works there huck me up with a extra usb sync cable
the connection that connects to the phone has 2 philips screws on it. if ur careful enough u can take it all apart to the point of getting to the pins / wires
the usb cable with the power inlet on the back of it up by the xda connector, has enough wires in it to cover you for audio left and right and mic + if u use a common ground (1 ground across all 3 connections)
this is important to know when your alpine cva-1004 uses a common ground and wont engage the video unless all 3 wires are grounded
anyways... i was able to use a ginsu kitchen steak knife (sharpest knife i had) to cut away the rubber shielding on the actual wires holding the wires to the pins. otherwise u could use ur soldering iron and just burn threw it, just try not to breath it in.
then u just un solder the wires, reroute them to the right pins. if u want, use some hot glue to seal them back up, but if u solder them strait enough, the casing will protect it enough
then clip off the usb end, i took a spare component PS2 video cable, the wires were thin enough to integrate nicly into the usb cable, clip that, strip it, solder those in. clean everything up with some black electrical tape and ur done
mine ? my alpine cva-1004 has a remote mute wire. plug the phone into the aux in on the radio in the car, run a mic cable and audio cables (or use speaker phone) and u have the closest thing to a in car cell phone.
also works nicly for listening to mp3s in the car, but my xm satelite radio has that pretty nicly covered
just my 2 cents, but its not hard. i didnt wanna screw up the cables, so it took me about 2 hours in total to do a nice job.
-Mario

oh yeah, FLUX is key. it may also be called tin, but iv allways known it as flux.
dip the tip of the soldering iron in the flux, then get some solder onto it
purpose of flux ? it makes the iron slippery to the point where it will hold solder (in liquid form) but once the solder touches the wires, release it from the iron
its like non stick spray for soldering irons
you may also be able to put the flux on the wire / connection itself, but iv never done that. little flux on the tip of the iron should help alot
non leaded flux id suggest, but if u dont know what flux is or hot of a iron u should use, u probably shouldnt be doing this project
-Mario

2GMario said:
oh yeah, FLUX is key. it may also be called tin, but iv allways known it as flux.
dip the tip of the soldering iron in the flux, then get some solder onto it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tin = solder, sorry i'm Dutch Didn't use anything else, no flux.
A lot of ppl just stick two wires together and try to fill the gaps with solder
This might 'work' with relatifly thick copperwires, but not with these...
Put some solder on the wires before soldering them together.

[GUIDE]HDC Galaxy S4 Legend Disassembly + Antenna Modifications!

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES ARE YOU PERMITTED TO REPOST ANY IMAGES OR TEXT FROM THIS GUIDE, DIGITALLY OR OTHERWISE, WITHOUT MY WRITTEN CONSENT.
I can only offer limited advice as I currently do not have an LCD. That said, I have a better understanding of the layout of the board now.
I have had several messages asking 'Where can I buy this part?' Unless it is already posted in this thread, I do not know where you can buy it.
Possible parts sellers: (I cannot confirm details are correct. Purchase at your own risk!)
LCD: http://s.taobao.com/search?q=fpc-a50...l-b&rsclick=13
An EXPERIMENTAL antenna guide can be found in this post: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=46020544&postcount=61
Results of this here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=46309271&postcount=68
I'm in the UK, using the O2 network so I do not know how it will affect US networks as they use a different frequency.
This guide is currently incomplete and will be updated as progress is made. Thanks to @henrykins111 and @PerisH-es for the helpful information.
Please note: This will void your warranty. I do not accept responsibility for this or any data loss or damage that may occur directly or indirectly as a result of attempting to follow any of the steps in this guide. Please take care and follow these steps at your own risk.
Tools required for the disassembly:
- Small (2-3mm?) Phillips head screwdriver
- Plastic pry tool or thin guitar plectrum.
Firstly, remove the back case, battery, microSD card and SIM card. Put these safely to one side.
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Remove the 9 screws that surround the edges of the back of the phone. Put these in a small box or something, I've lost countless screws by just leaving them on the side.
Insert the plectrum (or pry tool) between the chrome and the brushed style sections of the phone. Take care not to use too much force or push the plectrum in too far as this could damage some of the ribbon cables, situated mostly towards the top of the phone.
You'll be left with two parts. The grey piece you just removed will have the ribbon antennas for wifi and cellular signal attached, as well as the loudspeaker and the camera lens and flash diffuser. The board is now also exposed.
To remove the camera, using the plectrum to carefully unplug the ribbon cable. The main camera unit can then be lifted out, but be aware that it is held down by some tape so be aware that a small amount of force may be required.
Now using the same method unplug the small black ribbon cable that is attached to the SIM and microSD card slots.
The card slots are held in with a little glue, and these can now be removed.
To remove the board, first undo the 2 screws located in opposite corners that hold it down. Make a note of their location as it is easy to confuse which holes to put them in. Then, remove this small strip of tape, being VERY careful not to tear the ribbon cables beneath.
Using the plectrum, you can now remove these. The bottom cable is a data cable that links to the bottom board and the top cable is the screen cable (I think - not sure)
Just above the socket for the SIM and microSD card slots is another socket. This has a small, black, hinged plastic tab that you must lift until it is 90degrees to the board. You can then slowly slide out the ribbon cable from the socket. Underneath this cable is another plug type socket. Unplug this.
Another antenna cable can now be removed. This can be quite stiff but be very careful not to dent the metal on the connections and also be aware that it is possible to pull the socket itself from the board.
After unplugging another small ribbon cable located on the top edge of the phone, the board can now be lifted. Lift the board as smoothly as possible, making sure to not tear any of the ribbon cables.
To remove the first infrared sensor and light sensor, simply pull it vertically out from the casing of the phone.
Just underneath the top of the headphone jack is a small indent in the white plastic. Use this to remove the headphone jack, but be careful not to apply to much force as joined by another thin ribbon cable is the LED and second infrared sensor. This may take some slight wriggling to remove as it is all held in with a small amount of glue.
Unplug the ribbon cable from the bottom left hand side of the board.
The other end of the metal antenna cable can now be unplugged. being careful of the components underneath and the round thing (microphone?) the board should now only be held in by a couple of strips of tape and a little glue.
The other side of the bottom board. This helps explain a few things. The round object connected via the wires appears to be the vibration motor. There are no numbers or letters written on it. Those of you having problems, it may simply be a broken connection on this wire, so it's worth checking.
The microphone is the small surface mounted silver box located next to the solder points for the wires.
The LCD/digitizer/glass assembly is now held in with a little glue. Use the plectrum to remove the screen. If it's stubborn, gently heat with a heat gun or hair dryer on low heat in a circular motion over the device. You may need to apply a small amount of pressure to the back of the LCD, where the battery would normally be. There is a risk of breaking it if you do this, but this won't matter if you're replacing it anyway.
NOTE: The LCD cables will not fit through the slot they are in without removing the small black divider to the right hand side of the slot, where the top speaker would be.
!Potentially important information!
As I broke the LCD I thought I would have a go at separating the LCD from the digitizer/glass. Turns out it is possible BUT almost impossible to do without breaking the LCD.
If your LCD is broken but your glass/digitizer is fine, then you could try removing it. The LCD is glued to the glass only around the edge. To remove it, you simply have to pull the LCD from the glue. Before you do this, be ABSOLUTELY sure that you are only pulling the LCD off and not the digitizer. The easiest way to check is to remove the LCD from the top down, as here you can use the ribbon cable as a reference to which layer is the digitizer. Picture of this to come.
As mentioned by @henrykins111, gently heating the screen and using a thin metal spudger or xacto knife will really help with this.

Nice, on wich picture can you see the vibration engine?

splashboy said:
Nice, on wich picture can you see the vibration engine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure where it is if I'm honest. I'll strip the phone down and power it up in parts to try and locate it.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

I was looking for the microphone part, i think in my phone it's defect and trying to repair it myself.
Maybe you have some shots of it?

Thanks for posting this. I'm also looking for the vibration engine as it seems to be faulty on mine, it stops working sometimes and shaking the phone a bit seems to fix it temporarily, which makes me think there's a loose connection. I'm also suffering from a poor wifi signal as I move away from the router - do you know where the wifi antenna is?

Original post has been updated with further information about the bottom board, microphone and vibration motor.
Firefly0 said:
do you know where the wifi antenna is?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It looks like the wifi antenna is the black cable with gold metal connections that runs down the right hand side (volume button side) and connects to the bottom board. This in turn connects to a grey flat ribbon style antenna which can be seen glued flat to the bottom of the phone simply by removeing the battery cover.
That said, I have the same problem. Different ROMs don't solve the problem. I'm wondering if it simply is weak, and maybe a strip of conductive tape or foil or similar on top of this antenna would help. Either that or have the complete opposite effect and it refelct signals around inside the phone. Might be worth a try though.

Really helpful, I thank you!

splashboy said:
Really helpful, I thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could offer something useful to the community :laugh:

Firefly0 said:
Thanks for posting this. I'm also looking for the vibration engine as it seems to be faulty on mine, it stops working sometimes and shaking the phone a bit seems to fix it temporarily, which makes me think there's a loose connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me know if you fixed it and how you did
Thanks!

Does anyone have any idea why I can't update the original post with images? If i copy the exact same code into a new post, it allows me to do it.
Example:

rynbrgss said:
Original post has been updated with further information about the bottom board, microphone and vibration motor.
It looks like the wifi antenna is the black cable with gold metal connections that runs down the right hand side (volume button side) and connects to the bottom board. This in turn connects to a grey flat ribbon style antenna which can be seen glued flat to the bottom of the phone simply by removeing the battery cover.
That said, I have the same problem. Different ROMs don't solve the problem. I'm wondering if it simply is weak, and maybe a strip of conductive tape or foil or similar on top of this antenna would help. Either that or have the complete opposite effect and it refelct signals around inside the phone. Might be worth a try though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. That sounds like it could work, let me know the results if you try it. I've messaged the seller I bought the phone from about the poor wifi signal to see if they have any advice, I'll post back if I have any luck.
splashboy said:
Let me know if you fixed it and how you did
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems to be OK now after shaking the phone a bit. Pulling out the battery also seemed to temporarily fix it once, but I think that may have just been a coincidence. I'll probably try opening it up if it stops working again to see if there is a loose connection.

Firefly0 said:
Thanks for the reply. That sounds like it could work, let me know the results if you try it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been having a play but no luck. I tried simply inserting a small strip of foil between the antenna and back case and no change. I then true different sizes an locations still the same. Even made an antenna from the foil that ran just love halfway up the phone and wired it into the pins on the board, and no significant change there either I'm afraid.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

rynbrgss said:
I've been having a play but no luck. I tried simply inserting a small strip of foil between the antenna and back case and no change. I then true different sizes an locations still the same. Even made an antenna from the foil that ran just love halfway up the phone and wired it into the pins on the board, and no significant change there either I'm afraid.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will be interesting, to see, if any parts from the real s4 are compatible with this legend, i see many users will pay an extra buck to replace de rear and front camera, and also the wifi, because these parts are relatively cheap..., in another angle, maybe someone will also wanted to change for the real s4 screen but i doubt that will be compatible .

I see many people with poor wifi, could an original flez cable be the solution?
ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Internal-Antenna-Signal-WIFI-Flex-Cable-Part-for-Samsung-Galaxy-S4-i9500-/290931180790?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item43bcd984f6

rynbrgss said:
Does anyone have any idea why I can't update the original post with images? If i copy the exact same code into a new post, it allows me to do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you have to load up the pictures again, not only try to link the pictures.
Thanks for your work on the Legend! :good:

Picture links fixed

lvieira76 said:
It will be interesting, to see, if any parts from the real s4 are compatible with this legend, i see many users will pay an extra buck to replace de rear and front camera, and also the wifi, because these parts are relatively cheap..., in another angle, maybe someone will also wanted to change for the real s4 screen but i doubt that will be compatible .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While the wifi flex replacement should fit, I can't see it making any real difference. The wifi antenna itself is different from the S4; on our phones there is a thin grey ribbon antenna underneath the battery. It looks just like a sticker but on the other side of it it has a thin copper circuit. This is what is potentially the problem as it may not be very well designed. (I'm no expert when it comes to antenna designs themselves).
I'd be reluctant to try the camera but if you do let us know how it goes. The same with the screen.

I think the wifi antenna is the antenna in the top. The little one at the right-corner. You can try with that.
I believe that the botton antenna is the mobile antenna (GSM).
Hope it helps.
@rynbrgss Did you get to check the lcd model?

i sure hope that someone gets an fix for wifi, because, i receive my legend today and didnt pick the wireless 10 meters away...lol

PerisH-es said:
I think the wifi antenna is the antenna in the top. The little one at the right-corner. You can try with that.
I believe that the botton antenna is the mobile antenna (GSM).
Hope it helps.
@rynbrgss Did you get to check the lcd model?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't, I need to work out how to get to it without damaging the phone.
Ill have a play with the other antenna too, thanks for the heads
up.
lvieira76 said:
i sure hope that someone gets an fix for wifi, because, i receive my legend today and didnt pick the wireless 10 meters away...lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried fluffy's Rom? That helped a lot wwith mine.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

make an otg cable.

Hey guys I recently googled and made my own otg cable. Actually a few and the procedure that I found were very solder intensive. I dont mind soldering tiny things but its not easy and it is so easy to mess it up. I got an easier way for those who enjoy building rather then buying. These cables are not expensive but its more rewarding to say I made that.
Here goes:
Get a regular micro usb cord. I got mine for a buck at dollor store. Make sure it has 5 contacts inside the phone end and try to get the hard plastic ends not the solid ends. They are much easier to work with.
Crack the phone end open carefully with a knife along the seam. You should be left with the metal tip and wires exposed.
The phone end is made up of a few parts and if you carefully pull the plastic peice closest to the wires out of the metal housing you will have all 5 contacts exposed. Keep ever part. You will need them.
This is the only soldering you have to do. Use a match book or a peice of thin card and insert it between the 3rd and 4th pin. Count from the red wire side. Should be right after the green wire contact. You are soldering the black wire pin to the next one. I bend my card in half and tape the end down to the table so it doesnt move. Very carefully and with very little solder and some acid paste flux to help it stick solder the last 2 contact prongs together. Just a tiny bit about 3 mm from the plastic on wire end will do. Dont put to much on or go to far to the end of the contacts. Make sure that only the 4 and 5 pin are soldered.
Gentally slide the contacts back into the metal housing. Use a flashlight to look inside and make sure they are all evenly spaced and back wherebthey were. Put the plastic cover back on and glue or tape it tight.
Go back to dollor store (cause why screw up a expensive cord. Practice on this first.) And get a female to female conector and you are done!
Plug your new otg cable into phone with the female to female conector on usb end and plug in your ext hard drive, flash drive, keyboard, mouse, etc into the female connector and your laughin'
It still works as a charger ( mine is plugged in now charging) and you have a otg cable aswell.
This worked very well for me but I caution you to be really carefull. If you fry your phone I won't send you a new one
Good luck!

How to replace a part

I have a broken LCD connector (as the image below shows). This is the connector that, after removing the back cover, the LCD flex cable is connected to on the bottom, just under the battery on the right side.
Everything works fine on my tablet, except for S Pen input, and I have been told, from my previous question, that this broken connector controls S Pen input as well.
I want to buy the replacement part and change it out, but I cannot find a way to get to the part and see what exactly it is without looking like I need to grind off some of the nubs holding the frame together, and I do not want to do that without some foresight into it first.
Does anyone know what part this is, where I can buy it, and how to change it out?
This is not the LCD/Digitizer assembly as those flex cables are connected on the top and are just fine. Just this particular connector is the issue, and everything else works fine except for s pen input. Even normal touch input works fine.
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Are you talking about the actual port the Flexible Flat Cable (or ribbon cable) goes into? I don't have my tablet here at the office, but if you're asking about how to replace the actual port/connector itself (that thing the ribbon cable plugs into), then I would imagine you'd be looking at some very delicate soldering to remove it, and even more fussy work to replace it. Soldering or desolering SMT components isn't for the faint of heart - or coffee addicts.
I can't quite see which part is broken though. Is it on the connector near where pin 45 is on the ribbon cable? If it's just the part of the connector that helps to hold the black 'hinge' down that locks in the ribbon cable once it's inserted, then you should be able to close the hinge and then tape it shut. You might need a bit of positive pressure against the hinge (a very LITTLE bit), which you could achieve by taping the hinge down and then sliding a thin sliver of plastic between the tape and the hinge. This would just be for testing purposes of course - if closing the hinge and taping it down does result in your pen working again, then at least you'd know exactly what the issue was.
If I've misunderstood the problem then just let me know.
Donovan.

phoenixbennu said:
I have a broken LCD connector (as the image below shows). This is the connector that, after removing the back cover, the LCD flex cable is connected to on the bottom, just under the battery on the right side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You did make a serious mistake as this connector in on LCD. There is no way you can fix this connector as the LCD and touchscreen are glued together. In order to get the LCD, you have to remove the touchscreen. High heat need to apply to soften the glue and I guarantee that you will crack the LCD during this process of separating touchscreen and LCD as well as cutting the flex cable of the touchscreen. I damaged 3 LCDs and 2 touchscreens in order to learn how to separate them.
You only fix right now is using tape to secure and hold down the LCD cable, there is no other way unless you try to replace a new LCD.

phoenixbennu said:
Everything works fine on my tablet, except for S Pen input, and I have been told, from my previous question, that this broken connector controls S Pen input as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
S Pen and LCD cables are different and not related, they have their own connector. S Pen uses Wacom technology embedded in LCD, its cable is at the top as seen in the picture,
If disconnect this cable, your S Pen will not function. In the picture, motherboard of Galaxy Tab Pro 12.2, a similar tablet like Galaxy Note Pro, everything is the same except it doesn't have the connector or input for S Pen cable. I can use the motherboard of Galaxy Tab Pro with a LCD assembly of Galaxy Note Pro without any problem. Everything works except S Pen. The LCD cable has nothing to do or control S Pen function, it just used for display images.

Well I am wondering how it can be having an issue then. The top cables I thought were for the lcd and the digitizer, and those cables are just fine. I have checked them and rechecked them. They are working normally. Even touch control is working fine.
The only thing causing issue is spen. The spen works on small sections of the screen, and the calibration is completely off. If I touch the small sports it works in (and those spots dont always works) it will act like I am hitting a completely random part of the screen.
The only connector that is broken is the one I pictured. When I was trying to play with the connector to inspect it, more of it broke off easily and the spen seems to become less responsive.
I am also wondering about the exact configuration of that connector. It seems like there are connections that are on the broken part. The underside of the top part of the connection seemed to have metallic striping on it, and when the cable is inserted you can clearly see metallic prongs trying to connect to the top part.
My assumption is the the flex cable is serving to connect to the base connector that it lays on, and then there are spots where signal is transmitted through curved prongs to the topside of the cable where it connected to the missing part of the connector.
Since the LCD is working normlly otherwise, I can only assume that it has to be for some other purpose other than the LCD.
Of course, its hard to say. Its possible that the connector you pictures is simply bad and needs replacing, or that the motherboard has an issue, or something.
I just wish I knew so I could pinpoint it, get a replacement part, and fix it.
Thank you for your input, too. It is appreciated

dkaardal said:
Are you talking about the actual port the Flexible Flat Cable (or ribbon cable) goes into? I don't have my tablet here at the office, but if you're asking about how to replace the actual port/connector itself (that thing the ribbon cable plugs into), then I would imagine you'd be looking at some very delicate soldering to remove it, and even more fussy work to replace it. Soldering or desolering SMT components isn't for the faint of heart - or coffee addicts.
I can't quite see which part is broken though. Is it on the connector near where pin 45 is on the ribbon cable? If it's just the part of the connector that helps to hold the black 'hinge' down that locks in the ribbon cable once it's inserted, then you should be able to close the hinge and then tape it shut. You might need a bit of positive pressure against the hinge (a very LITTLE bit), which you could achieve by taping the hinge down and then sliding a thin sliver of plastic between the tape and the hinge. This would just be for testing purposes of course - if closing the hinge and taping it down does result in your pen working again, then at least you'd know exactly what the issue was.
If I've misunderstood the problem then just let me know.
Donovan.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This image might be a little better (same image, but circled)
Basically, as my just recent posting says, the beige connector is whats broken. The flex cable is perfectly fine, and then black hingle works perfectly fine to hold everything in place. Whats broken is the beige part. There are metal prongs the go undr and over the flex ribbon after it is inserted. You can see some of them in the picture. Since the cable does not have connectors on the top of it, I can only assume that the prongs on the top are actually starting from a connection to the ribbon on the bottom, and looping up to the top and should contact with a broken part of the connector, but because it is missing, that part is not getting a signal.
I was told in another threat that this connector also controls spen pessure and other attributes. So I am assuming the the underside is for image and the top side is for s pen.
However, I could be completely wrong and the prongs could be nothing more than just a way to hold it in place.
As a side note, I did originally just assume this was a display only cable and used electrical tape to prevent any shorts or anything, but it made no difference with anything.

I confirm that each cable: touchscreen, S Pen, and LCD works independently. Top left is touchscreen, top right is S Pen. LCD cable is above the battery.
-Disconnect the top left cable ( touchscreen ): your screen will not response to touch but S pen
-Disconnect the top right cable ( S Pen ): your screen will not response to S Pen but touch by finger.
-Disconnect the LCD cable: you will see the black screen, but your screen will response to touch or S Pen. If connected to TV via HDMI adapter, your tablet will response to whatever you do on the display of TV.

Beut said:
I confirm that each cable: touchscreen, S Pen, and LCD works independently. Top left is touchscreen, top right is S Pen. LCD cable is above the battery.
-Disconnect the top left cable ( touchscreen ): your screen will not response to touch but S pen
-Disconnect the top right cable ( S Pen ): your screen will not response to S Pen but touch by finger.
-Disconnect the LCD cable: you will see the black screen, but your screen will response to touch or S Pen. If connected to TV via HDMI adapter, your tablet will response to whatever you do on the display of TV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the additional information
I was able to get it fixed, thanks to the help.
I had detached and reattached all connections I could, including the s pen flex cable, trying to make sure everything was set properly, and I was still having issues. Finally, after unplugging it and plugging it back in while the tablet was turned on, it works fine now. I can only assume it was not all the way in, even though it appeared to be and was held securely, or the fact that the tablet was turned on may have help if there was an issue with power getting to that cable. Either way, it works now.
I hope it keeps working, but it all seems to be working fine now.

You can confirm your S Pen function in factory mode, no calibration, just Pass or Fail
Use calculator
(+30012012732+
Then
*#0*#
Use the Wacom test to see your S Pen work normally, besides there are many other tests for hardware components.

Aux Tip Broke Inside Headphone Jack

So I've been keeping my S8 Plus as my backup to my Note 8 since the weekend the N8 came out. My kid sister dropped her iPhone and pretty much killed it so I lent her my S8 Plus until she got a new phone. Well, she only went and broke up the tip of an aux plug inside the headphone jack. It seems the aux cord was pretty old or just compromised somehow. She was in her car when she pulled the aux out of the phone but noticed the tip was stuck inside the phone. Lovely.
In the mean time, I've lent her my USB-C to Aux adapter until I can get the tip out of the headphone jack. I'm averse to using any kind of glue because I don't want to risk leaving any sticky residue inside (hold laughter). I have a smartphone repair kit with some very thin tweezers but they couldn't get a firm grip on the aux bit.
Have y'all seen this kind of issue firsthand and if so do you have any tips to getting this thing out? Thanks!

First check to see of the plug shaft that was broken, is attracted to a magnet.
If so, my first thought would be to take a nail the same diameter, or just slightly more thin as the plug shaft, cut the end off square to the nail shaft, or grind it off. Get a reasonably strong magnet. Insert the nail shaft into the headphone jack hole, and gently put it up against the broken off piece. Place the strong magnet on the nail shaft. Slowly and gently pull and twist as you remove the nail.

roaduardo said:
So I've been keeping my S8 Plus as my backup to my Note 8 since the weekend the N8 came out. My kid sister dropped her iPhone and pretty much killed it so I lent her my S8 Plus until she got a new phone. Well, she only went and broke up the tip of an aux plug inside the headphone jack. It seems the aux cord was pretty old or just compromised somehow. She was in her car when she pulled the aux out of the phone but noticed the tip was stuck inside the phone. Lovely.
In the mean time, I've lent her my USB-C to Aux adapter until I can get the tip out of the headphone jack. I'm averse to using any kind of glue because I don't want to risk leaving any sticky residue inside (hold laughter). I have a smartphone repair kit with some very thin tweezers but they couldn't get a firm grip on the aux bit.
Have y'all seen this kind of issue firsthand and if so do you have any tips to getting this thing out? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you need is super glue I know you said no glue but this is how I fixed my iPad when this happened and a cotton bud or que tip
You cut the cotton wool off the cotton bud so you are left with the hollow tube then apply a small ammount of super glue on the tip of the tube and I mean tiny amount and then put that in your headphone jack and let it set for 10-15 mins then you should be able to remove the aux tip by pulling the cotton bud out and if you done this correctly there should be no glue left inside the headphone port
---------- Post added at 11:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:38 PM ----------
downloaderbyproxy93 said:
What you need is super glue I know you said no glue but this is how I fixed my iPad when this happened and a cotton bud or que tip
You cut the cotton wool off the cotton bud so you are left with the hollow tube then apply a small ammount of super glue on the tip of the tube and I mean tiny amount and then put that in your headphone jack and let it set for 10-15 mins then you should be able to remove the aux tip by pulling the cotton bud out and if you done this correctly there should be no glue left inside the headphone port
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Edit here is a link for a laptop but it is the same principle https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...QQwqsBCCgwAA&usg=AOvVaw0VTJzWxrN8ZFOD4xbU2nov

Hmm... In my experience super glue typically requires 24 hours to fully cure, right? I think I've heard of applicators you can spray on to speed it up but that's just more liquid being used around this phone which makes me uneasy.

I would second a drop of super glue one a tooth pick then with a light make sure it's centered. That little bit of glue will dry in a matter of 30 min to a hour.

roaduardo said:
Hmm... In my experience super glue typically requires 24 hours to fully cure, right? I think I've heard of applicators you can spray on to speed it up but that's just more liquid being used around this phone which makes me uneasy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's how I done it when I done this method when I broke the aux bit in my iPad and now it works fine

I sliced a straw from a juice box and put it around the outside of the broken aux plug then I hollowed out the inside of a pen and put a tiny dan of the gel style gorilla glue on the inside of the pen. slide it down inside the straw and wait for it to harden 5 min pull the whole thing out worked great
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