I have a MDA II with a Destinator navigation pack (Hardware only) and a Mr. Handsfree Pro carkit.
I wanted to use the carkit for both my Nokia 6310 and the MDA, while still having Tomtom navigation, and this weekend I got it to work.
The cool side effect is that now are all sound going to the carkit including the voice from TomTom.
It should also work with XDA 1 but I dont have one to try it on.
Here's how to do it:
Use a 3 wire cable (1 meter should be sufficient and black is pretty'est)
Soldering iron with pointy tip.
A bit of tin.
Possible two capacitors 10nF
Black tape
Steady hands
1. Take apart the 22 pin connector for the MDA/XDA.
2. Solder one of the new wires to pin 1 (sound from microphone on carkit). RED
3. Solder one of the new wires to pin 4 (All sounds from MDA goes to carkit). GREEN
4. Solder the last wire to ground (pin 2,5,16,17 or 18 ). BLACK.
5. Solder a tiny bit of wire from pin 19 to ground (Tells the MDA that it have to send sound via connector)
6. Note down which wire colour goes to which function.
7. Make a hole along the top or bottom part of the connector housing to fit the cable for the carkit.
8. Assemble the connector and use some black tape to fix the wire to the housing to protect the solderings from breaking.
9. Take appart the box on the extension connector (in my case it is for a Nokia 6310 but any should do)
10. Make a hole in the housing for the cable, and pull cable through.
11. Solder the Microphone wire (RED) to pin H1 (Brown wire on carkit side)
12. Solder the Speaker wire (GREEN) to pin 5 (Green wire on Telephone side) if there are noise on the carkit when you are done you can use 1 small capacitor between the speaker wire and ground and 1 between speaker wire and Pin H7 (Purple wire on carkit side)
13. Solder the Ground wire (BLACK) to pin H8 (Grey wire on carkit side).
14. Assemble the housing and use some black tape to fix the wire to the housing to protect the solderings from breaking.
15. Try and connect everything up (and prey). If you have done this correctly, you should now have one carkit for two telephones with out having two spend much money.
Here are some links which could come in handy:
www.mrhandsfree.com
www.destinator.nl
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/wiki/Connectors
Good for you!
I am looking all over for a MDA II car kit! I have a navigon tmc Gps and am looking for car kit for this.
Wanna earn some extra bucks and make me one/!!! :lol:
I couldn't stand the stock headphones as they just would not stay in my ear, and I can't use them at work because they don't do noise isolation. I really liked idea of the inline remote and wanted to be able to use it with any set of headphones I want. So I chopped the earbuds off and added a jack in their place. Worked like a charm.
Good idea, I might do the same with my old etymotics!
How did you reconnect the wires though? Weaving them, or soldering?
Great Idea! tutorials woutld be even better for he less knowledgeable ones! lulz n.n
I'm trying to do the same thing and thought I knew what I was doing. Here's where I am... Any pointers?
more images and a few tips at http://irregular-expression.com
sorry for the site, it's pretty raw right now.
Flandro said:
I'm trying to do the same thing and thought I knew what I was doing. Here's where I am... Any pointers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Soldering the headphone wire to the same stuff is going to be a royal PITA, this guys blog post goes a little bit more into that. I would recommend getting a jack that has solder points. Would probably be a little easier.
i guess my real question is wich wires go to which wires? color of wire to which corresponding color.
The copper wires are ground, the green is left and the red is right on the n1 headphones. I'm not sure what the colors correspond to on your jack, but I imagine they are the same. You'll need to connect both the left and right ground wires to the ground wire on the headphone jack.
So basically cut open the 2 ends and splice/soder the corresponding colors together and thats it?
Does anyone know if the G1 adapter (it is a mini usb that ends in a 3.5 female jack) would work?
Ssantos6981 said:
So basically cut open the 2 ends and splice/soder the corresponding colors together and thats it?
Does anyone know if the G1 adapter (it is a mini usb that ends in a 3.5 female jack) would work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as it's stereo, there'll be 3 wires. 1 L, 1 R, and a common ground. So yes, it should work in theory, however, I don't know if there are any additional wires in there for the USB portion (I doubt it, but there are stranger things out there).
Personally, I'd go to RadioShack and buy the female end that you can solder on. It'll look more professional. I just put one of their male ones on a set of Senheisser headphones that I busted the plug on.
Flandro said:
I'm trying to do the same thing and thought I knew what I was doing. Here's where I am... Any pointers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, you need to connect the wires together.
That much of a gap and the sound will be terrible........
I took a different approach.
I took apart the remote control portion of the remote control (just pop the three buttons off with your fingernails).
Removed the little circuit board inside by cutting the heat glue and prising up with a flat bladed screwdriver (carefully).
Be careful as the loose parts you should have are 3 buttons, 1 button membrane and MAYBE the little gauze from the microphone may come out.
Peal off the heat glue at the head phones end and desolder the four pads holding the headphones on. MAKE A NOTE OF THE COLOURS.
Took an old pair of in ear headphones and cut the cable to the right length.
Stripped back the cable and, because I am not sure how to strip the headphone stuff cleanly I held the cables in a pair of flat pliers to protect it from the heat and left 5 mm showing and hit them with a blow torch to burn away the insulation. I then tinned the ends and trimmed to 1.5mm.
Desolder properly the 4 pads on the board (use desolder braid, its magic).
BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE HEADPHONES IN MAKE SURE YOU THREAD THEM THROUGH THE HOLE IN THE REMOTE FIRST.
Solder the ear phone connectors back to the board, from memory with the earphones coming towards you and the plug away from your the connectors are GROUND - LEFT - RIGHT - GROUND. it should be a simple case of getting it in position and touching with a soldering iron for about half a second.
Apply a smudge of hot glue to the board to hold wires in place AND WAIT TO COOL. trim if needed. Push board back into place and hot glue the cables to the interior of the remote.
Looking again at another set I suppose you can glue the cables and the board all in one go when assembled.
If you don't have hot glue then I suppose a drop of super glue will work but use sparingly.
Pop membrane back on and clip buttons back over.
Enjoy inner ear comfort.
Nice mod, those look good
One of my favorite things about the jack is that I can use it in the car too. Really makes changing songs while driving a breeze.
rockyxda said:
I took a different approach.
I took apart the remote control portion of the remote control (just pop the three buttons off with your fingernails).
Removed the little circuit board inside by cutting the heat glue and prising up with a flat bladed screwdriver (carefully).
Be careful as the loose parts you should have are 3 buttons, 1 button membrane and MAYBE the little gauze from the microphone may come out.
Peal off the heat glue at the head phones end and desolder the four pads holding the headphones on. MAKE A NOTE OF THE COLOURS.
Took an old pair of in ear headphones and cut the cable to the right length.
Stripped back the cable and, because I am not sure how to strip the headphone stuff cleanly I held the cables in a pair of flat pliers to protect it from the heat and left 5 mm showing and hit them with a blow torch to burn away the insulation. I then tinned the ends and trimmed to 1.5mm.
Desolder properly the 4 pads on the board (use desolder braid, its magic).
BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE HEADPHONES IN MAKE SURE YOU THREAD THEM THROUGH THE HOLE IN THE REMOTE FIRST.
Solder the ear phone connectors back to the board, from memory with the earphones coming towards you and the plug away from your the connectors are GROUND - LEFT - RIGHT - GROUND. it should be a simple case of getting it in position and touching with a soldering iron for about half a second.
Apply a smudge of hot glue to the board to hold wires in place AND WAIT TO COOL. trim if needed. Push board back into place and hot glue the cables to the interior of the remote.
Looking again at another set I suppose you can glue the cables and the board all in one go when assembled.
If you don't have hot glue then I suppose a drop of super glue will work but use sparingly.
Pop membrane back on and clip buttons back over.
Enjoy inner ear comfort.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a VERY NICE mod.
However I might go one further.
If I do this I think I'm going to leave a 3.5mm female jack out that way I can use any headphones..!!
I did the same thing as rockyxda. I used earbuds, because they are much more comfortable for me (plus they have great sound plus they block surrounding noise). I made a couple of snap shot to aid any one that wants to do the same.
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That's how the remote's insides look like after popping buttons of. At the top you see the three buttons and the button membrane.
Picture 2:
That's how I lifted the circuit board from the remote's body. I used a small knife to gently pry up the side with the earphones attached.
Picture 3:
That's how the board looked after desoldering the old earphones and soldering the earbuds. Connections you see are +R and +L (above in this picture) - these are the right (usually red wire) and left (usually green wire) earphone wires. Connections below those are -L and -R - these are the common stereo ground (usually white or blue wire) and both contacts are the same so it doesn't matter which one you choose. Oh, and as rockyxda said, don't forget to thread wires through the remote body's holes first!
Picture 4:
The circuit board reinserted in the body.
Picture 5:
Final result. Rocking and rolling!
Nice!!
Sexy!
If I have any trouble out of mine and need to re do it, I will probably solder some wires directly to the board out to a female jack. Screw soldering headphone wires!
jairuncaloth said:
Sexy!
If I have any trouble out of mine and need to re do it, I will probably solder some wires directly to the board out to a female jack. Screw soldering headphone wires!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Amen to that! I've just done the earbud splicing into the remote, and I've come to the conclusion that my eyesight isn't as good as it used to be. Damn those pads are small.
Headphone wires are a pain to work with. I ended up stripping mine with a small butane torch.
Still, it's done now and working perfectly.
Well here's my mod, finally got around to it.
I didn't strip the wires either, I let the soldering iron do that!
Works flawlessly and now I can attach ANY headphones to my Dopod connection
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Amdathlonuk/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCMe9gvb5uLL5NQ#5440408503519704690
Nice mod there Amdathlonuk. I tried to strip those wires too but I also ended up just soldering them (with a huge industrial iron) half-stripped.
And I'm not particulary good at soldering either. I once melted a hole through a mouse's logic board with the same iron.
Hey all,
I been looking around for a similar thread, but all of them involve this issue. My issue is that my Jack will not play the right side of Stereo.. At all. I've tried my Gaming Headset, and 5 Diff headphones, its clearly the jack. Thing is I've never dropped the phone, and been really careful with it in general. The Port does not feel loose at all and no matter how much i Twist the plug trying to catch a signal it does not pick up anything. I Also tried cleaning the inside with a shaved down Q-Tip, needless to say it didn't do anything.
Any Ideas?
I have no Warranty
The last time I tried cleaning a headphone jack, I accidentally bent one of the contacts inside the barrel back flush with the wall. That meant one of the contact pins wasn't doing its job.
Take the outer housing off and closely inspect the jack. Shine a torch dow it to make sure all your pins are showing. A surgical needle saved me (great addition to the phone repair kit) You can use it to bend the pin back into position.
Good luck!
Sry for Nekro, just wanted to add a Follow up to the problem. My phone had been recently stolen, when I was hanging out with a not so great crowd, But I just got it back yesterday. And to my astonishment, the headphones started to work if I pushed the jack in further. Turns out it was just Pocket lint.... They musta knocked the pocket lint loose enough for me to grab a weak connection. Just rolled up some Tape and stuck it in and got the Lint out, works perfectly now. Hopefully this will help someone else searching this problem.
Now to just figure out why my Pause/Play , Forward /Backward buttons on both my Headphones don't work anymore....
Thanks a lot Zeal514....I had no sound a all and headphone pin was not going all the way in...swirled some rolled tape in and whole lotta lint crap came out and I can hear now...feels great. Thanks for your post saved me call to HTC helpdesk and time to send phone in.
But my mic is not working...i have old apple earbuds aith no buttons, just a mic attached with earbuds.
Thanks for the tip, I used some 3M Scotch compressed air and after blowing the dirt out of the jack plug, all was good again!
Hey guys I recently googled and made my own otg cable. Actually a few and the procedure that I found were very solder intensive. I dont mind soldering tiny things but its not easy and it is so easy to mess it up. I got an easier way for those who enjoy building rather then buying. These cables are not expensive but its more rewarding to say I made that.
Here goes:
Get a regular micro usb cord. I got mine for a buck at dollor store. Make sure it has 5 contacts inside the phone end and try to get the hard plastic ends not the solid ends. They are much easier to work with.
Crack the phone end open carefully with a knife along the seam. You should be left with the metal tip and wires exposed.
The phone end is made up of a few parts and if you carefully pull the plastic peice closest to the wires out of the metal housing you will have all 5 contacts exposed. Keep ever part. You will need them.
This is the only soldering you have to do. Use a match book or a peice of thin card and insert it between the 3rd and 4th pin. Count from the red wire side. Should be right after the green wire contact. You are soldering the black wire pin to the next one. I bend my card in half and tape the end down to the table so it doesnt move. Very carefully and with very little solder and some acid paste flux to help it stick solder the last 2 contact prongs together. Just a tiny bit about 3 mm from the plastic on wire end will do. Dont put to much on or go to far to the end of the contacts. Make sure that only the 4 and 5 pin are soldered.
Gentally slide the contacts back into the metal housing. Use a flashlight to look inside and make sure they are all evenly spaced and back wherebthey were. Put the plastic cover back on and glue or tape it tight.
Go back to dollor store (cause why screw up a expensive cord. Practice on this first.) And get a female to female conector and you are done!
Plug your new otg cable into phone with the female to female conector on usb end and plug in your ext hard drive, flash drive, keyboard, mouse, etc into the female connector and your laughin'
It still works as a charger ( mine is plugged in now charging) and you have a otg cable aswell.
This worked very well for me but I caution you to be really carefull. If you fry your phone I won't send you a new one
Good luck!
So I've been keeping my S8 Plus as my backup to my Note 8 since the weekend the N8 came out. My kid sister dropped her iPhone and pretty much killed it so I lent her my S8 Plus until she got a new phone. Well, she only went and broke up the tip of an aux plug inside the headphone jack. It seems the aux cord was pretty old or just compromised somehow. She was in her car when she pulled the aux out of the phone but noticed the tip was stuck inside the phone. Lovely.
In the mean time, I've lent her my USB-C to Aux adapter until I can get the tip out of the headphone jack. I'm averse to using any kind of glue because I don't want to risk leaving any sticky residue inside (hold laughter). I have a smartphone repair kit with some very thin tweezers but they couldn't get a firm grip on the aux bit.
Have y'all seen this kind of issue firsthand and if so do you have any tips to getting this thing out? Thanks!
First check to see of the plug shaft that was broken, is attracted to a magnet.
If so, my first thought would be to take a nail the same diameter, or just slightly more thin as the plug shaft, cut the end off square to the nail shaft, or grind it off. Get a reasonably strong magnet. Insert the nail shaft into the headphone jack hole, and gently put it up against the broken off piece. Place the strong magnet on the nail shaft. Slowly and gently pull and twist as you remove the nail.
roaduardo said:
So I've been keeping my S8 Plus as my backup to my Note 8 since the weekend the N8 came out. My kid sister dropped her iPhone and pretty much killed it so I lent her my S8 Plus until she got a new phone. Well, she only went and broke up the tip of an aux plug inside the headphone jack. It seems the aux cord was pretty old or just compromised somehow. She was in her car when she pulled the aux out of the phone but noticed the tip was stuck inside the phone. Lovely.
In the mean time, I've lent her my USB-C to Aux adapter until I can get the tip out of the headphone jack. I'm averse to using any kind of glue because I don't want to risk leaving any sticky residue inside (hold laughter). I have a smartphone repair kit with some very thin tweezers but they couldn't get a firm grip on the aux bit.
Have y'all seen this kind of issue firsthand and if so do you have any tips to getting this thing out? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you need is super glue I know you said no glue but this is how I fixed my iPad when this happened and a cotton bud or que tip
You cut the cotton wool off the cotton bud so you are left with the hollow tube then apply a small ammount of super glue on the tip of the tube and I mean tiny amount and then put that in your headphone jack and let it set for 10-15 mins then you should be able to remove the aux tip by pulling the cotton bud out and if you done this correctly there should be no glue left inside the headphone port
---------- Post added at 11:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:38 PM ----------
downloaderbyproxy93 said:
What you need is super glue I know you said no glue but this is how I fixed my iPad when this happened and a cotton bud or que tip
You cut the cotton wool off the cotton bud so you are left with the hollow tube then apply a small ammount of super glue on the tip of the tube and I mean tiny amount and then put that in your headphone jack and let it set for 10-15 mins then you should be able to remove the aux tip by pulling the cotton bud out and if you done this correctly there should be no glue left inside the headphone port
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Edit here is a link for a laptop but it is the same principle https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...QQwqsBCCgwAA&usg=AOvVaw0VTJzWxrN8ZFOD4xbU2nov
Hmm... In my experience super glue typically requires 24 hours to fully cure, right? I think I've heard of applicators you can spray on to speed it up but that's just more liquid being used around this phone which makes me uneasy.
I would second a drop of super glue one a tooth pick then with a light make sure it's centered. That little bit of glue will dry in a matter of 30 min to a hour.
roaduardo said:
Hmm... In my experience super glue typically requires 24 hours to fully cure, right? I think I've heard of applicators you can spray on to speed it up but that's just more liquid being used around this phone which makes me uneasy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's how I done it when I done this method when I broke the aux bit in my iPad and now it works fine
I sliced a straw from a juice box and put it around the outside of the broken aux plug then I hollowed out the inside of a pen and put a tiny dan of the gel style gorilla glue on the inside of the pen. slide it down inside the straw and wait for it to harden 5 min pull the whole thing out worked great
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