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How to make an audio adapter

Hi, I've been using an audio adapter from PocketPCTechs (http://www.pocketpctechs.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=PPCPADPT01) with my XDA 2... However, the microphone doesn't work with this. Even if I plug in a regular mono-headset with microphone, that part doesn't work.
So I thought I'd cut the stereo headphones off of the headset that's included and wire that up to a cassette player adapter. My problem is that the wires going to the headset speakers are coated with some kind of paint along with a fiber which makes it very difficult to make a connection with the wires in the cassette player adapter. I took it to an electronics repair shop to see if they could solder a 3.5mm female audio plug to that end, but they said they couldn't because of those types of wires.
Has anyone had success in modifying the included stereo headset to play through a car stereo while also retaining microphone functionality (for Voice Command or Phone calls)??

You will need to crimp some metal contacts onto the wires to make a good electrical conection, but you MUST do your soldering onto the crimps first otherwise you will just melt the wires off of the crimp,
The wires are special lightweight metal coated plastic filament designed to reduce weight and enhance audio since HF signals only travel in the outer edge or a wire

i used a stanley knife blade to carefully scrape the plastic off but the metal is so thin it just crumbles away and the solder connection doesnt stick that well to it either the stuff is just like factory made and this kinda stops you modding it what i done was use a 3310 h/f kit and cut that up and solder a 3.5mm end to it worked great
gaz

Does anybody know the assignments of the 4 conductors of the XDA II headset plug? I'm guessing that the tip of the plug is for the left speaker, the next conductor is for the right speaker, the next is for the microphone, and the last is the ground connection. Is this correct?

Jargon said:
Does anybody know the assignments of the 4 conductors of the XDA II headset plug? I'm guessing that the tip of the plug is for the left speaker, the next conductor is for the right speaker, the next is for the microphone, and the last is the ground connection. Is this correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No it isn't, the connector at the bottem is the same as the XDA 1 : http://www.xda-developers.com/connectors
On the XDA 1 audio out worked simultaneously with the internal speaker and mic. On the MDA/XDA 2 audio is rerouted to the bottemconnector if you ground Pin_19... The internal speaker and mic wil be disabled.
btw. i sucesfully managed to solder the previously mentioned wires... I went as far as opening a Nokia 8110 headset, rewire it internally and close the mic again You should carefully tin the wires before soldering them...

i recently did this also
when i bought my phone from t-mobile, i had my friend who works there huck me up with a extra usb sync cable
the connection that connects to the phone has 2 philips screws on it. if ur careful enough u can take it all apart to the point of getting to the pins / wires
the usb cable with the power inlet on the back of it up by the xda connector, has enough wires in it to cover you for audio left and right and mic + if u use a common ground (1 ground across all 3 connections)
this is important to know when your alpine cva-1004 uses a common ground and wont engage the video unless all 3 wires are grounded
anyways... i was able to use a ginsu kitchen steak knife (sharpest knife i had) to cut away the rubber shielding on the actual wires holding the wires to the pins. otherwise u could use ur soldering iron and just burn threw it, just try not to breath it in.
then u just un solder the wires, reroute them to the right pins. if u want, use some hot glue to seal them back up, but if u solder them strait enough, the casing will protect it enough
then clip off the usb end, i took a spare component PS2 video cable, the wires were thin enough to integrate nicly into the usb cable, clip that, strip it, solder those in. clean everything up with some black electrical tape and ur done
mine ? my alpine cva-1004 has a remote mute wire. plug the phone into the aux in on the radio in the car, run a mic cable and audio cables (or use speaker phone) and u have the closest thing to a in car cell phone.
also works nicly for listening to mp3s in the car, but my xm satelite radio has that pretty nicly covered
just my 2 cents, but its not hard. i didnt wanna screw up the cables, so it took me about 2 hours in total to do a nice job.
-Mario

oh yeah, FLUX is key. it may also be called tin, but iv allways known it as flux.
dip the tip of the soldering iron in the flux, then get some solder onto it
purpose of flux ? it makes the iron slippery to the point where it will hold solder (in liquid form) but once the solder touches the wires, release it from the iron
its like non stick spray for soldering irons
you may also be able to put the flux on the wire / connection itself, but iv never done that. little flux on the tip of the iron should help alot
non leaded flux id suggest, but if u dont know what flux is or hot of a iron u should use, u probably shouldnt be doing this project
-Mario

2GMario said:
oh yeah, FLUX is key. it may also be called tin, but iv allways known it as flux.
dip the tip of the soldering iron in the flux, then get some solder onto it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tin = solder, sorry i'm Dutch Didn't use anything else, no flux.
A lot of ppl just stick two wires together and try to fill the gaps with solder
This might 'work' with relatifly thick copperwires, but not with these...
Put some solder on the wires before soldering them together.

Stock headphone mod

I couldn't stand the stock headphones as they just would not stay in my ear, and I can't use them at work because they don't do noise isolation. I really liked idea of the inline remote and wanted to be able to use it with any set of headphones I want. So I chopped the earbuds off and added a jack in their place. Worked like a charm.

Good idea, I might do the same with my old etymotics!
How did you reconnect the wires though? Weaving them, or soldering?

Great Idea! tutorials woutld be even better for he less knowledgeable ones! lulz n.n

I'm trying to do the same thing and thought I knew what I was doing. Here's where I am... Any pointers?

more images and a few tips at http://irregular-expression.com
sorry for the site, it's pretty raw right now.

Flandro said:
I'm trying to do the same thing and thought I knew what I was doing. Here's where I am... Any pointers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Soldering the headphone wire to the same stuff is going to be a royal PITA, this guys blog post goes a little bit more into that. I would recommend getting a jack that has solder points. Would probably be a little easier.

i guess my real question is wich wires go to which wires? color of wire to which corresponding color.

The copper wires are ground, the green is left and the red is right on the n1 headphones. I'm not sure what the colors correspond to on your jack, but I imagine they are the same. You'll need to connect both the left and right ground wires to the ground wire on the headphone jack.

So basically cut open the 2 ends and splice/soder the corresponding colors together and thats it?
Does anyone know if the G1 adapter (it is a mini usb that ends in a 3.5 female jack) would work?

Ssantos6981 said:
So basically cut open the 2 ends and splice/soder the corresponding colors together and thats it?
Does anyone know if the G1 adapter (it is a mini usb that ends in a 3.5 female jack) would work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as it's stereo, there'll be 3 wires. 1 L, 1 R, and a common ground. So yes, it should work in theory, however, I don't know if there are any additional wires in there for the USB portion (I doubt it, but there are stranger things out there).
Personally, I'd go to RadioShack and buy the female end that you can solder on. It'll look more professional. I just put one of their male ones on a set of Senheisser headphones that I busted the plug on.

Flandro said:
I'm trying to do the same thing and thought I knew what I was doing. Here's where I am... Any pointers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, you need to connect the wires together.
That much of a gap and the sound will be terrible........

I took a different approach.
I took apart the remote control portion of the remote control (just pop the three buttons off with your fingernails).
Removed the little circuit board inside by cutting the heat glue and prising up with a flat bladed screwdriver (carefully).
Be careful as the loose parts you should have are 3 buttons, 1 button membrane and MAYBE the little gauze from the microphone may come out.
Peal off the heat glue at the head phones end and desolder the four pads holding the headphones on. MAKE A NOTE OF THE COLOURS.
Took an old pair of in ear headphones and cut the cable to the right length.
Stripped back the cable and, because I am not sure how to strip the headphone stuff cleanly I held the cables in a pair of flat pliers to protect it from the heat and left 5 mm showing and hit them with a blow torch to burn away the insulation. I then tinned the ends and trimmed to 1.5mm.
Desolder properly the 4 pads on the board (use desolder braid, its magic).
BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE HEADPHONES IN MAKE SURE YOU THREAD THEM THROUGH THE HOLE IN THE REMOTE FIRST.
Solder the ear phone connectors back to the board, from memory with the earphones coming towards you and the plug away from your the connectors are GROUND - LEFT - RIGHT - GROUND. it should be a simple case of getting it in position and touching with a soldering iron for about half a second.
Apply a smudge of hot glue to the board to hold wires in place AND WAIT TO COOL. trim if needed. Push board back into place and hot glue the cables to the interior of the remote.
Looking again at another set I suppose you can glue the cables and the board all in one go when assembled.
If you don't have hot glue then I suppose a drop of super glue will work but use sparingly.
Pop membrane back on and clip buttons back over.
Enjoy inner ear comfort.

Nice mod, those look good
One of my favorite things about the jack is that I can use it in the car too. Really makes changing songs while driving a breeze.

rockyxda said:
I took a different approach.
I took apart the remote control portion of the remote control (just pop the three buttons off with your fingernails).
Removed the little circuit board inside by cutting the heat glue and prising up with a flat bladed screwdriver (carefully).
Be careful as the loose parts you should have are 3 buttons, 1 button membrane and MAYBE the little gauze from the microphone may come out.
Peal off the heat glue at the head phones end and desolder the four pads holding the headphones on. MAKE A NOTE OF THE COLOURS.
Took an old pair of in ear headphones and cut the cable to the right length.
Stripped back the cable and, because I am not sure how to strip the headphone stuff cleanly I held the cables in a pair of flat pliers to protect it from the heat and left 5 mm showing and hit them with a blow torch to burn away the insulation. I then tinned the ends and trimmed to 1.5mm.
Desolder properly the 4 pads on the board (use desolder braid, its magic).
BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE HEADPHONES IN MAKE SURE YOU THREAD THEM THROUGH THE HOLE IN THE REMOTE FIRST.
Solder the ear phone connectors back to the board, from memory with the earphones coming towards you and the plug away from your the connectors are GROUND - LEFT - RIGHT - GROUND. it should be a simple case of getting it in position and touching with a soldering iron for about half a second.
Apply a smudge of hot glue to the board to hold wires in place AND WAIT TO COOL. trim if needed. Push board back into place and hot glue the cables to the interior of the remote.
Looking again at another set I suppose you can glue the cables and the board all in one go when assembled.
If you don't have hot glue then I suppose a drop of super glue will work but use sparingly.
Pop membrane back on and clip buttons back over.
Enjoy inner ear comfort.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a VERY NICE mod.
However I might go one further.
If I do this I think I'm going to leave a 3.5mm female jack out that way I can use any headphones..!!

I did the same thing as rockyxda. I used earbuds, because they are much more comfortable for me (plus they have great sound plus they block surrounding noise). I made a couple of snap shot to aid any one that wants to do the same.
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That's how the remote's insides look like after popping buttons of. At the top you see the three buttons and the button membrane.
Picture 2:
That's how I lifted the circuit board from the remote's body. I used a small knife to gently pry up the side with the earphones attached.
Picture 3:
That's how the board looked after desoldering the old earphones and soldering the earbuds. Connections you see are +R and +L (above in this picture) - these are the right (usually red wire) and left (usually green wire) earphone wires. Connections below those are -L and -R - these are the common stereo ground (usually white or blue wire) and both contacts are the same so it doesn't matter which one you choose. Oh, and as rockyxda said, don't forget to thread wires through the remote body's holes first!
Picture 4:
The circuit board reinserted in the body.
Picture 5:
Final result. Rocking and rolling!

Nice!!

Sexy!
If I have any trouble out of mine and need to re do it, I will probably solder some wires directly to the board out to a female jack. Screw soldering headphone wires!

jairuncaloth said:
Sexy!
If I have any trouble out of mine and need to re do it, I will probably solder some wires directly to the board out to a female jack. Screw soldering headphone wires!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Amen to that! I've just done the earbud splicing into the remote, and I've come to the conclusion that my eyesight isn't as good as it used to be. Damn those pads are small.
Headphone wires are a pain to work with. I ended up stripping mine with a small butane torch.
Still, it's done now and working perfectly.

Well here's my mod, finally got around to it.
I didn't strip the wires either, I let the soldering iron do that!
Works flawlessly and now I can attach ANY headphones to my Dopod connection
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Amdathlonuk/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCMe9gvb5uLL5NQ#5440408503519704690

Nice mod there Amdathlonuk. I tried to strip those wires too but I also ended up just soldering them (with a huge industrial iron) half-stripped.
And I'm not particulary good at soldering either. I once melted a hole through a mouse's logic board with the same iron.

Microphone replacement question.

Hi, my phone mic has stop working no one can hear me.
any one know´s what is the mic replacement for the tornado 2125??
hope any can help me.
thanks.

Strange - already the second with Mic problems for the devices that I watch (all the old ones: Typhoon, Hurricane, Tornado, Excalibur and Vox). It seems that some are offering replacement MICs on ebay, but the more problematic part is to unsolder the old one and re-solder the new on the PBA.
Check first if it is really the MIC and not another problem in the radio part. Try to record a note or a voice tag to see if the MIC is working. Also check if the Headset would work to record.

The mic works ramdom, voice recoder sometimes record the sound other not the radio version is 4.1.13.28_02.61.01 try whit lot of rom´s and the same.
headset is lost but i will try when i found it :S
if you can provide me a newest radio it will very appreciate that.
thanks.

You already have the latest Radio - there is nothing newer for the Tornado. Changing SW will not help if the HW has a problem - and as the recording sometimes works and sometimes not - seems you have a HW problem :-(

Love my phone, but is old know that!
can you help me giving me the correct mic reference?
i will try to fix replacing the bad mic for a new one.
thanks.

See this thread. Search ebay for "microphone dash".
I don't know how you would be able to remove the old mic and resolder the new one. I would not dare doing this. Best option is to open the device (careful! - don't rip off the keyboard cable) - seach for descriptions how to do it - and then clean the PBA from dirt that may have accumulated there.
Edit: all identically looking HTC microphones should work. There is no reason for HTC to have different MIC in the same shape. I found the following item-ids matching on ebay:
310238895928
180534133999
400143006229
400141063057
190419550974
190420686600
110371836182
190429433138
190428972283
180534132679

Mic just work again xD no more problem whit that.
now the Ring Speaker stop working only work´s sometimes and sound rare :S
what is the replacement for that speaker??'
thanks for all.

What did you do to make the microphone work again?
The ring speaker hardly ever breaks, but it is the same for Typhoon, Hurricane and Tornado. It is more probable that dirt has accumulated on the speakers membrane and/or that the contacts to the PBA are not working properly.
If you had already disassembled the device you can take care of both. Check the contacts on speaker and PBA first, as removing and cleaning the speaker is more delicate to do.To remove the speaker from the middle frame you have
to disassemble the device (several manuals available around the net) to its main parts:
Front cover with LCD and PBA
middle frame (with ring speaker, camera and buzzer)
then remove the 3 black screws from the black plastic cover,
now carefully lever up the camera which is glued to the frame with a small double adhesive ring around the lens from inside (really delicate if you don't want to break it!). You could possibly skip that step, but then the next step will require you to bend the flex cable from the camera very much. Never bent it much on my devices, so I cannot tell if that would not break the camera either.
carefully lever between the black cover and the frame (small adhesive frame around the edge) and step by step pull it up to finally remove it. Take care not to rip too fast as you need the adhesive later to keep it stuck well to not vibrate and distort the sound.
now you can access the speaker which should lift up together with the black plastic cover. The speaker is glued with double adhesive tape to that frame - again care to to lift it up.
good luck!

I conected the hands free, to the cellphone and it´s worked again.
i disassemly the phone clean whit isopropyl alcohol and nothing.
only the ringer speaker works somethimes so i thinks is faulty and sound like weird
try to change for another ringer.
thanks for you help!

Ah, that is interesting The 3.rd ring on the plug (the one you do not have on normal plugs) is for the external microphone and shortcut to grounds acts as pickup/hangup button. So it seems that some dirt in the socket has created confusion regarding the microphone?!
To my experience the switch that toggles headset/normal also steers the use of the external/internal microphone. Consequently you should have noticed also the sound disappear (when going to "headset" mode).
When you disassembled the device already, look at the rear part of the headset socket. You see at the left side a gold contact that is normally closed and that opens when you insert a plug. The closed contact must be well connecting or otherwise you are stuck in headset mode. When open (plug inserted) use a wooden toothpick + alcohol to clean the surfaces. Depending on the place where you keep your phone when carrying, the socket eats grid and dust that accumulates at the rear part - so keep the socket clean.

make an otg cable.

Hey guys I recently googled and made my own otg cable. Actually a few and the procedure that I found were very solder intensive. I dont mind soldering tiny things but its not easy and it is so easy to mess it up. I got an easier way for those who enjoy building rather then buying. These cables are not expensive but its more rewarding to say I made that.
Here goes:
Get a regular micro usb cord. I got mine for a buck at dollor store. Make sure it has 5 contacts inside the phone end and try to get the hard plastic ends not the solid ends. They are much easier to work with.
Crack the phone end open carefully with a knife along the seam. You should be left with the metal tip and wires exposed.
The phone end is made up of a few parts and if you carefully pull the plastic peice closest to the wires out of the metal housing you will have all 5 contacts exposed. Keep ever part. You will need them.
This is the only soldering you have to do. Use a match book or a peice of thin card and insert it between the 3rd and 4th pin. Count from the red wire side. Should be right after the green wire contact. You are soldering the black wire pin to the next one. I bend my card in half and tape the end down to the table so it doesnt move. Very carefully and with very little solder and some acid paste flux to help it stick solder the last 2 contact prongs together. Just a tiny bit about 3 mm from the plastic on wire end will do. Dont put to much on or go to far to the end of the contacts. Make sure that only the 4 and 5 pin are soldered.
Gentally slide the contacts back into the metal housing. Use a flashlight to look inside and make sure they are all evenly spaced and back wherebthey were. Put the plastic cover back on and glue or tape it tight.
Go back to dollor store (cause why screw up a expensive cord. Practice on this first.) And get a female to female conector and you are done!
Plug your new otg cable into phone with the female to female conector on usb end and plug in your ext hard drive, flash drive, keyboard, mouse, etc into the female connector and your laughin'
It still works as a charger ( mine is plugged in now charging) and you have a otg cable aswell.
This worked very well for me but I caution you to be really carefull. If you fry your phone I won't send you a new one
Good luck!

Dasiata 10.2 Max6 reverse

So I installed this unit into my Lincoln Navigator by way of eliminating all lincoln factory and ran new speaker wire to every speaker I replaced. Also amp and sub in rear. All good but now this big car some rear camera would be great. I buy a nice around the plate camera. Fed it power and ground from the reverse tail light. Ground and power to camera and tied red wire on yellow rca in positive side as well. By headunit other end of yellow to the Rear Vin rca jack with red wire to the #2 pin reverse wire that's orangish in color. Put in reverse black screen with lines and a caution sign I'll call it. Does anyone know what I should do? Please please help I'm so lost with it right now. It is right in theory I believe but.....help!!!