Dasaita Max10 doesn‘t boot - MTCD Android Head Units Q&A

Hello!
I just got my Dasaita Max10 for my Nissan X-Trail T32 (2017)and installed it today.
I watched some videos on how to install and all the cables fitted well, so I‘m pretty much sure I installed it correctly.
However, if I turn on the car, the unit remains dead. No boot up, no light, nothing at all.
I measured the voltage before and behind the canbus adapter cables and in the fuse of the Dasaita as well. All showed 11.8V. I even tried a different fuse (3A).
has anyone any ideas what I missed or is the device just defect?
thanks for your help!!
Alex

Do you have a rest button
Try to hold it 10 sec

stale86 said:
Do you have a rest button
Try to hold it 10 sec
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, but already tried...

May it be that its the wrong canbus? Do cables of a wrong canbus fit? Beacuse mine fit. It reads NS-SS-04.

Related

Connecting the head unit to a PSU?

I have an old PSU which I've modified to get a 12V (yellow) and GND (black), there are a lot of videos on youtube that shows how to connect a car stereo to a PSU.
But I have some doubts about which cables I have to use. In the ISO Wiring Harness I have 4 connectors I suspect I need to use (see picture).
GND - to ground
Illumination - ???
B+ - ???
ACC - to 12v?
Anyone could help me, I know a lot of you test their units at home using specific 12v power adapters or PSUs.
Yellow and red simultaneously to a +12V
Black to gnd
if I did help you, please hit "thanks" button
ikerg said:
Yellow and red simultaneously to a +12V
Black to gnd
if I did help you, please hit "thanks" button
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With the old head unit, it works, but with the new one, it doesnt.
I've put the 12v wire to red and yellow and the ground wire to the black one.
Edit: I've already tested the PSU, it gives 12v.
See the cables (photo attached).
Have you the ACC wire connected to Can bus decoder?
AndreaEl said:
Have you the ACC wire connected to Can bus decoder?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, should i?
I've used the other iso wiring harness (marked as 6B in the first image) , conecting a2 to gnd and a4+a8 to 12v and it works.
I might be making something wrong with harness 6
Edit 2: You were right, the red wire has another connector that was unpluged with a label "if no cambus connect here", I've connected it and it works.
I guess i must unpluged it again when installing the hu on my car, isnt it?
corpcd said:
Nope, should i?
I've used the other iso wiring harness (marked as 6B in the first image) , conecting a2 to gnd and a4+a8 to 12v and it works.
I might be making something wrong with harness 6
Edit 2: You were right, the red wire has another connector that was unpluged with a label "if no cambus connect here", I've connected it and it works.
I guess i must unpluged it again when installing the hu on my car, isnt it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you mount on car:
- If you have canbus decoder the ACC signal come from Canbus and you must unplug the connector.
- if you NOT have canbus decoder you must connect the 2 connectors togheter and ACC signal come from ISO connector and reach the radio.
Case when you use a bench power supply:
1. You not have canbus signal, so you must unplug canbus decoder.
2. Without canbus decoder you must plug togheter the ACC connector for allow that ACC signal reach radio from ISO connector.
IMPORTANT: Don't give 12V to ACC if you connect the 2 connector togheter and have canbus decoder connected. You can damage the canbus decoder!
Remember: OR you connect canbus decoder, OR you connect the 2 connectors togheter!
Hope this help you
Absolutely brilliant explanation, thank you.
AndreaEl said:
When you mount on car:
- If you have canbus decoder the ACC signal come from Canbus and you must unplug the connector.
- if you NOT have canbus decoder you must connect the 2 connectors togheter and ACC signal come from ISO connector and reach the radio.
Case when you use a bench power supply:
1. You not have canbus signal, so you must unplug canbus decoder.
2. Without canbus decoder you must plug togheter the ACC connector for allow that ACC signal reach radio from ISO connector.
IMPORTANT: Don't give 12V to ACC if you connect the 2 connector togheter and have canbus decoder connected. You can damage the canbus decoder!
Remember: OR you connect canbus decoder, OR you connect the 2 connectors togheter!
Hope this help you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's the straightforward illustration.
I'm a little late to the party, but here goes...
Hi all, I am trying to connect my android Headunit to an atx power supply. I connected the positive from the psu to the Yellow (positive) + Red (ACC) connectors bridged together, on the quadlock, and gnd from psu to gnd on the quadlock. It turns on for a second and then it immediataly turns off. I don't understand the canbus decoder thing, can someone give me some help please?
mike2587 said:
Hi all, I am trying to connect my android Headunit to an atx power supply. I connected the positive from the psu to the Yellow (positive) + Red (ACC) connectors bridged together, on the quadlock, and gnd from psu to gnd on the quadlock. It turns on for a second and then it immediataly turns off. I don't understand the canbus decoder thing, can someone give me some help please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
Kind of same problem I have.
Trying to bench power newly received FunRover Android 7" 2DIN head unit using a power adapter 12DC 2A.
I am applying power to pin 12 and 15 of the ISO conn at the back of the unit. I have also installed jumper C (17-18 and 19-20) ILL and ACC. Unit has built in CAN bus decoder. When applying power screen blinks and then nothing. It will do same if I apply power again after 10 min, otherwise nothing.
I can not understand what am I doing wrong ? Anybody help please ...
achirila said:
Hello,
Kind of same problem I have.
Trying to bench power newly received FunRover Android 7" 2DIN head unit using a power adapter 12DC 2A.
I am applying power to pin 12 and 15 of the ISO conn at the back of the unit. I have also installed jumper C (17-18 and 19-20) ILL and ACC. Unit has built in CAN bus decoder. When applying power screen blinks and then nothing. It will do same if I apply power again after 10 min, otherwise nothing.
I can not understand what am I doing wrong ? Anybody help please ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most radios are fused at 10A, remember this when picking a supply, I have a 10-20VDC 10A power supply to my tb103ap hu and have no issues running it.
Your 2A may be too low for the power up state.
TullyMan said:
Most radios are fused at 10A, remember this when picking a supply, I have a 10-20VDC 10A power supply to my tb103ap hu and have no issues running it.
Your 2A may be too low for the power up state.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you,
True, my fuse is 15A, but I beleive this is taking in consideration a powerfull stereo you'd have installed in your car.
Android unit by itself, without any periferals connected can not take 10A, no way.
Next day I have actually used 12VDC from my ATX PS of my desktop PC, that should be 300W I belive ...yet ...same ...
If you're using an ATX power supply it needs to have a load on the 5V rail and maybe on the 3.3V too. Just put a 10 Ohm 5W resistor between a 5V line and Ground. An old AT PSU won't give you that trouble.
achirila said:
Thank you,
True, my fuse is 15A, but I beleive this is taking in consideration a powerfull stereo you'd have installed in your car.
Android unit by itself, without any periferals connected can not take 10A, no way.
Next day I have actually used 12VDC from my ATX PS of my desktop PC, that should be 300W I belive ...yet ...same ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have pins on the back of your device?
For some reason mine didn't want to boot unless I changed the pin configuration.
Check the top side of the unit, it should have a standard configuration.
SirThanksalot said:
Do you have pins on the back of your device?
For some reason mine didn't want to boot unless I changed the pin configuration.
Check the top side of the unit, it should have a standard configuration.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it has plenty of connectors with pins (male) but I do not understand , how to change pin configuration ?
achirila said:
Yes, it has plenty of connectors with pins (male) but I do not understand , how to change pin configuration ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I believe they are called DIPs. They are little switches you can turn on and off. My unit has 4.
TullyMan said:
Most radios are fused at 10A, remember this when picking a supply, I have a 10-20VDC 10A power supply to my tb103ap hu and have no issues running it.
Your 2A may be too low for the power up state.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also use a power supply set on 12VDC, works great.

Nissan QASHQAI/Rogue Dasaita PX5 Installation

Hi there,
I'm trying to install one of the Dasaita PX5 headunits in my new QASHQAI and I've hit a snag. Two of the connectors on the wiring harness included with the unit are identical, but have very different wires coming out of them. I assume they are dependant in your cars factory setup, but since my unit didn't come with any sort of instructions I'm at a loss as to what they are.
My car has the small colour LCD from factory, with a factory rear camera (not the 360 camera) and front/rear parking sensors. Standard manual AC controls (not dual climate).
Any guidance would be appreciated!
I would assume that the "Low Plug" is for cars with low a equipment variant (as you can tell from the cables going into the connector already) and the other one is for cars with a more stuff.
So as of your cars description I would say go with the medium one and test it out.
Yep, I had a better look at the existing wiring loom today and the wires matched pretty well.
Decided to give it a try and it works brilliantly!
Factory rear camera and steering wheel controls all work, and I swear the audio quality using on board apps is better than the factory unit.
Hello, is it an android 8.0 unit ? If yes, does bluetooth works ?
This unit runs Android 6.0. There are 8.0 upgrade guides floating around but I honestly haven’t had the time or inclination to try it, the unit is working really well as is.
Bluetooth phone calls work great.
Bluetooth audio streaming works but I’ve used it maybe once briefly (I do all music and streaming directly on the headunit) so I cant really comment on how well audio works.
Ok thanks, I'm considering byuing a dasaita but I heard bluetooth doesn't work with android 8.0 units !
M4nu83 said:
Ok thanks, I'm considering byuing a dasaita but I heard bluetooth doesn't work with android 8.0 units !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I have Android 8 unit since 4 months and bluetooth works fine. I use bluetooth for phone calls, for audio I use Spotify from unit app.
mitchello said:
Yep, I had a better look at the existing wiring loom today and the wires matched pretty well.
Decided to give it a try and it works brilliantly!
Factory rear camera and steering wheel controls all work, and I swear the audio quality using on board apps is better than the factory unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi mitchello,
I have the same car radio model, I have a question about the cable connection for the rear camera, I have a yellow cable from the power cable called cvbs, and two yellow cables on the camera aux cable, one says Aux Video In and the other Cam VIN, to which should I connect the Cvbs cable?
?
rafiuxdoo said:
hi mitchello,
I have the same car radio model, I have a question about the cable connection for the rear camera, I have a yellow cable from the power cable called cvbs, and two yellow cables on the camera aux cable, one says Aux Video In and the other Cam VIN, to which should I connect the Cvbs cable?
?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have exatly the same problem, with my unit : 2 yellow cables but the factory reverse camera don't start !
krysthof972 said:
I have exatly the same problem, with my unit : 2 yellow cables but the factory reverse camera don't start !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, What Is u Nissan vehicle model?
I have a Nissan Qashqai 2018, support Dasaita says the connect cam vin whit Cvbs. I have not done the test yet.
krysthof972 said:
I have exatly the same problem, with my unit : 2 yellow cables but the factory reverse camera don't start !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you connected the reverse trigger wire? I *think* its pink in color.. or blue. You'll probably have to splice it. This trigger is connected to your reverse gear, so that when you are in reverse, the screen will switch to camera.
rafiuxdoo said:
hi mitchello,
I have the same car radio model, I have a question about the cable connection for the rear camera, I have a yellow cable from the power cable called cvbs, and two yellow cables on the camera aux cable, one says Aux Video In and the other Cam VIN, to which should I connect the Cvbs cable?
?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey mate, I'd have to pull out my unit to check, but I'd expect you connect it to the CAM IN connector. The White/Red RCAs should be for the AUX input in the armrest, and the yellow RCA for the camera.
I assume you have a factory camera yes? With it all connected my factory camera automatically flicks on when in reverse (even if the unit is still booting).
rafiuxdoo said:
Hello, What Is u Nissan vehicle model?
I have a Nissan Qashqai 2018, support Dasaita says the connect cam vin whit Cvbs. I have not done the test yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you for the answer, CVBS don't work
it's 2015 Qashqai
I'm really drawn to this head unit for my 2017 Rogue SL AWD. My current non-Android Auto/Car play unit is basically just a bluetooth steamer. The built-in maps are so slow, outdated, cumbersome and without helpful traffic info that I simply use Google maps. This new unit looks sharp and allows full functionality without paying Nissan that crazy monthly fee.
I'm in 100% if I can more or less just do a swap out.
---------- Post added at 10:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:23 PM ----------
Amazon has one listed with the PX6 CPU, so maybe slightly updated... "Dasaita 10.2" Android 9.0 Bluetooth Car Stereo Head Unit with 4G RAM / 64G ROM for Nissan X-Trail Qashqai Rogue 2014 2015 2016 2017 Car Radio Touch Screen GPS Navigation Support USB Bose AMP" at 499.
emtownsend said:
I'm really drawn to this head unit for my 2017 Rogue SL AWD. My current non-Android Auto/Car play unit is basically just a bluetooth steamer. The built-in maps are so slow, outdated, cumbersome and without helpful traffic info that I simply use Google maps. This new unit looks sharp and allows full functionality without paying Nissan that crazy monthly fee.
I'm in 100% if I can more or less just do a swap out.
---------- Post added at 10:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:23 PM ----------
Amazon has one listed with the PX6 CPU, so maybe slightly updated... "Dasaita 10.2" Android 9.0 Bluetooth Car Stereo Head Unit with 4G RAM / 64G ROM for Nissan X-Trail Qashqai Rogue 2014 2015 2016 2017 Car Radio Touch Screen GPS Navigation Support USB Bose AMP" at 499.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be prepared to be underwhelmed , over promised and under delivered.
marchnz said:
Be prepared to be underwhelmed , over promised and under delivered.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought mine from Ali Express ( Dasaita 10.2 - PX6 Android 9 ) and shipped to Australia in 5 days, I couldn't be more happier with the head unit.
All the Qashqai functions operate including the 360 all round camera, TPMS, Android auto and Carplay.
Hello All
I have dasaita px6 installed on my Qashqai as well
I want to know external MIC location best place as the built-in MIC was good initially then it became poor
Installed external MIC under the steering wheel but still voice is far
Hi all, i have Nissan Qashqai 2018 and i just few days ago i got my Dasaita PX5. Everything looks fine and work very well, but I am little bit concerned about noise which is coming out from device. Every time when I accelerate I am getting some kind of whistling noise coming out from device. Noise sometimes disappears but than come back again and started to be very noise. I tested and its coming from screen device, only disappears when I unplug the big black plug (which I think it is a main electrical socket or power supply because without that is not working). Do you guys have any similar issues before? Do you have any suggestions how to fix same one?
Second question is regarding to the SWC option. I connected everything how they did suggest but still is not working. I did choose proper settings on display and still nothing changed. I tried to contact support but until today no answer.
All help is more than welcome
sandpita said:
I bought mine from Ali Express ( Dasaita 10.2 - PX6 Android 9 ) and shipped to Australia in 5 days, I couldn't be more happier with the head unit.
All the Qashqai functions operate including the 360 all round camera, TPMS, Android auto and Carplay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have any pics you wouldn't mind sharing? Also, this is several months later, so... how do you still like it?
Thanks!
emtownsend said:
Do you have any pics you wouldn't mind sharing? Also, this is several months later, so... how do you still like it?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Had the HU for over a year now and it's faultless,everything just works i.e Factory Park Assist, 360 all round camera, GPS,DAB+.
Also I have the Carlinkit Carplay USB dongle which for me works every time with no issues where others have issues with inbuilt Carplay HU using ZLink.

Xtrons HU no sound.

I am having an issue the sound from my head unit. It was working great and then... Poof. it stopped working.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Link above is the model head unit i bought. is there anyway to get it working again?
I did install an updated MCU per (successfully)
https://forum.xda-developers.com/and...mware-t3816042
and it did not seem to change anything.
The screen works, all apps work, volume shows it is turning up and down but nothing out of the speakers. see video link of the issue below.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BNB...w?usp=drivesdk
Also, I do not have a factory amplifier.
Thanks everyone! any help would be Great!
kaluna00 said:
I am having an issue the sound from my head unit. It was working great and then... Poof. it stopped working.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Link above is the model head unit i bought. is there anyway to get it working again?
I did install an updated MCU per (successfully)
https://forum.xda-developers.com/and...mware-t3816042
and it did not seem to change anything.
The screen works, all apps work, volume shows it is turning up and down but nothing out of the speakers. see video link of the issue below.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BNB...w?usp=drivesdk
Also, I do not have a factory amplifier.
Thanks everyone! any help would be Great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What steps have been taken to diagnose the issue.
Also what have the installer or reseller advised?
marchnz said:
What steps have been taken to diagnose the issue.
Also what have the installer or reseller advised?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I reinstalled the stock radio, in the speakers work. So does not a wiring issue from the harness to the speakers. My guess is it something in the amp of the head unit itself.
kaluna00 said:
I reinstalled the stock radio, in the speakers work. So does not a wiring issue from the harness to the speakers. My guess is it something in the amp of the head unit itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also tried a factory reset with no success
kaluna00 said:
I also tried a factory reset with no success
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any ideas? Is this a hardware issue?
Thanks in advance!
Yes definitely a hardware issue. Do you like to play it loud? There was a load of heatsink compound between the amplifier chip and the case in my HU indicating a fairly large gap between the two. Should your HU have similar poor assembly the amp could have blown even if they're supposed to have thermal protection. It's also possible that at least one solder could have broke. If you can connect an amplified speaker or headphones to the line out you could find out if audio is making it out of the mixer chip at least.
nic2k said:
Yes definitely a hardware issue. Do you like to play it loud? There was a load of heatsink compound between the amplifier chip and the case in my HU indicating a fairly large gap between the two. Should your HU have similar poor assembly the amp could have blown even if they're supposed to have thermal protection. It's also possible that at least one solder could have broke. If you can connect an amplified speaker or headphones to the line out you could find out if audio is making it out of the mixer chip at least.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you sir. I'm going to try to connect it back up and see if I can run it to a Bluetooth speaker. Until I get my new one. Better than having a hole in the dash I suppose.... also I did see the amplifier chip you're talking about it looks like it does have thermal paste and is screwed tightly to the back heat sink area . Thanks again
Hi, how did you fix the issue?

Problem with my radio as it drains the car battery after about 7-10days.

Hi all, I have a problem with my radio as it drains the car battery after about 7-10days. My radio has a Bose amplifier and also a canbus box for wheel control buttons. Do you have any idea what can be the reason? Thanks
delnaval1 said:
Hi all, I have a problem with my radio as it drains the car battery after about 7-10days. My radio has a Bose amplifier and also a canbus box for wheel control buttons. Do you have any idea what can be the reason? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Crystal ball says Defective install
I checked everyhting, radio is coming with a harness and it is specifically designed for my car so no possiblity for error. There are two +12V wires, one is continuous +12V (yellow) and the other is ACC (+12v when key is in ignition position). I will probably will cut the yellow wire and will connect everyhting to ACC wire so there is no power in the system when ACC is OFF
delnaval1 said:
I checked everyhting, radio is coming with a harness and it is specifically designed for my car so no possiblity for error. There are two +12V wires, one is continuous +12V (yellow) and the other is ACC (+12v when key is in ignition position). I will probably will cut the yellow wire and will connect everyhting to ACC wire so there is no power in the system when ACC is OFF
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe you didn't set the Canbus correctly
delnaval1 said:
I checked everyhting, radio is coming with a harness and it is specifically designed for my car so no possiblity for error. There are two +12V wires, one is continuous +12V (yellow) and the other is ACC (+12v when key is in ignition position). I will probably will cut the yellow wire and will connect everyhting to ACC wire so there is no power in the system when ACC is OFF
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey hey - details!
delnaval1 said:
Hi all, I have a problem with my radio as it drains the car battery after about 7-10days. My radio has a Bose amplifier and also a canbus box for wheel control buttons. Do you have any idea what can be the reason? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nevertheless this is the wrong thread for your request.
Give some information about MCU and used firmware and we can look where to move this thread part.
LiviuE said:
Maybe you didn't set the Canbus correctly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
rigattoni said:
Nevertheless this is the wrong thread for your request.
Give some information about MCU and used firmware and we can look where to move this thread part.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, yes I know this is not the right place
My MCU is a PX5 using firmware MTCE_HA_v3.78_1, I got a Mazda 3 2006 and are several options for canbus configuration.
I checked the canbus module has a yellow wire with always +12V, I was thinking of switching this wire by ACC ON so it has +12V only when ignition is ON
delnaval1 said:
Thanks, yes I know this is not the right place
My MCU is a PX5 using firmware MTCE_HA_v3.78_1, I got a Mazda 3 2006 and are several options for canbus configuration.
I checked the canbus module has a yellow wire with always +12V, I was thinking of switching this wire by ACC ON so it has +12V only when ignition is ON
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Off topic reported
marchnz said:
Off topic reported
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the help
delnaval1 said:
Thanks for the help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you expect?
You hijack a thread which has nothing to do with your problem, so we as user can expect that you take care of rules. It would have been no issue to create a new thread, instead you just get this thread off topic.
Reported this too already and your initial posting has already been moved: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...y-after-about-7-10days.4499707/#post-87501609
Reported again to get the complete stuff moved or deleted which is not helpful.
rigattoni said:
What do you expect?
You hijack a thread which has nothing to do with your problem, so we as user can expect that you take care of rules. It would have been no issue to create a new thread, instead you just get this thread off topic.
Reported this too already and your initial posting has already been moved: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...y-after-about-7-10days.4499707/#post-87501609
Reported again to get the complete stuff moved or deleted which is not helpful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have my apologies but problem started right after upgrading my HCU with RF210 Bluetooth module and upgrading to Android 10 so I thought it could be related.
It was not my intention to hijack anything and I was not thinking I was breaking the rules.
delnaval1 said:
Have my apologies but problem started right after upgrading my HCU with RF210 Bluetooth module and upgrading to Android 10 so I thought it could be related.
It was not my intention to hijack anything and I was not thinking I was breaking the rules.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once again: Check the health status of your battery and measure the current when the car is in deep sleep.
On top: check the CANbus settings in your head unit.
It´s normal if the head unit takes about 4-12 milliamps during deep sleep. Nearly the same as each single OEM radio.
delnaval1 said:
Have my apologies but problem started right after upgrading my HCU with RF210 Bluetooth module and upgrading to Android 10 so I thought it could be related.
It was not my intention to hijack anything and I was not thinking I was breaking the rules.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have told you to make photos of canbus settings in headunit. Look again there and make the configuration as it was before you updated the MCU

Question EKIY T7 Shutting off when car starts

Hi,
First time posting. I'm looking for ideas or possible fixes to this issue.
Recently installed a EKIY T7 into 2010 Outback. Headunit turns on and works fine in ACC, but when I start the engine, the screen goes black, turns off. I thought maybe it was rebooting from loss of power when engine starts, but it does not turn back on when driving.
Only thing I'd say I did that would be off, way cut the blue wire that runs from the power harness, on radio side, to the antenna. The 2010 outback antenna adapter with blue wire did not fit, so ended up using one without it.
I think this is just the power antenna wire, but am unsure. was thinking one solution might be installing a remote on switch.
Attached photos, is screen on when in ACC. Type of plugs, and pin diagram.
I had this problem with Nissan X-trail, after it had been in for repair. Turned out a fuse had been removed and not replaced, by accident or on purpose I have no idea. Might be worth checking ALL your fuses. There are two boxes in the cab of my car.
slingshotrobot said:
Hi,
First time posting. I'm looking for ideas or possible fixes to this issue.
Recently installed a EKIY T7 into 2010 Outback. Headunit turns on and works fine in ACC, but when I start the engine, the screen goes black, turns off. I thought maybe it was rebooting from loss of power when engine starts, but it does not turn back on when driving.
Only thing I'd say I did that would be off, way cut the blue wire that runs from the power harness, on radio side, to the antenna. The 2010 outback antenna adapter with blue wire did not fit, so ended up using one without it.
I think this is just the power antenna wire, but am unsure. was thinking one solution might be installing a remote on switch.
Attached photos, is screen on when in ACC. Type of plugs, and pin diagram.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sounds like a ACC red cable problem. ACC controls if the unit should sleep or not. Measure the red cable when your engine runs, should have 12 -14 volt something. I.e. red cable in your HU harness.
Thank you. I'll try that. Was thinking maybe red and yellow wire are backwards. Will report back on progress.
slingshotrobot said:
Thank you. I'll try that. Was thinking maybe red and yellow wire are backwards. Will report back on progress.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In that case the screen should not be black when the car is running. Yellow is B+, always on, while red is sleep (No 12-14 volt) or no sleep=active(12-14 volt).
After trying a few other things, I was able to keep it turned on with the alternator unplugged. So maybe a diode in the alternator is going out. Will keep updates on whether a new alternator fixed it
Finally got it figured out with the help of their tech support. Solution was to cut the steering wheel learning wires (a6 and a7). Not sure why but this fixed it hope that helps others if they encounter same problem.
slingshotrobot said:
Finally got it figured out with the help of their tech support. Solution was to cut the steering wheel learning wires (a6 and a7). Not sure why but this fixed it hope that helps others if they encounter same problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you do with the SWC cables Key1 and Key2 for the problem to appear? I mean before you solved the problem. Normally if you have canbusbox they are not used at all and left open. Did you ground them or what?
I didn't have a canbus connected at all. Was told to just snip pink wire, A6 and A7 going to the head unit. fairly certain it was just the A6 wire that did it. I have no idea why that worked at all, but it did.

Categories

Resources