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Hardwiring microUSB into a Car

I'm looking to mount my phone to the "A" pillar in my car, but I don't want cords running all over the place. I'm looking at doing an install similar to what people do with radar detectors by hooking into the fuse box inside the car (with an adapter like the one found here). This would be just for power. I understand how to wire it up theoretically (don't need to hook up the data wires, just the power and ground). I'm just looking for a mentor to make sure I do it right.
Has anyone ever done something like this using an adapter like the one I've mentioned? And what size fuse did you use for the install so you don't hurt the phone?
On a side note, I'm driving a 2006 VW Jetta, if that helps in any way.

mgs991099a said:
I'm looking to mount my phone to the "A" pillar in my car, but I don't want cords running all over the place. I'm looking at doing an install similar to what people do with radar detectors by hooking into the fuse box inside the car (with an adapter like the one found here). This would be just for power. I understand how to wire it up theoretically (don't need to hook up the data wires, just the power and ground). I'm just looking for a mentor to make sure I do it right.
Has anyone ever done something like this using an adapter like the one I've mentioned? And what size fuse did you use for the install so you don't hurt the phone?
On a side note, I'm driving a 2006 VW Jetta, if that helps in any way.
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When I bought my car it had some hard wired cable like that, plugged an old phone in to be safe and it didn't charge properly. I scrapped the idea and just got a car deck with double usb and ran the usb to my arm console.

j.kelly said:
When I bought my car it had some hard wired cable like that, plugged an old phone in to be safe and it didn't charge properly. I scrapped the idea and just got a car deck with double usb and ran the usb to my arm console.
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I'm trying to not have cables running everywhere like I currently do. I've already got an aftermarket XM radio next to my radio which uses up a cigarette light adapter already.

mgs991099a said:
I'm trying to not have cables running everywhere like I currently do. I've already got an aftermarket XM radio next to my radio which uses up a cigarette light adapter already.
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What exactly do you need help with? - There are 4 wires in the usb cord. Use red for positive wire but DO NOT connect directly to 12v. USB is 5v so connecting to anything higher WILL fry your phone. You will need to get something that converts 12VDC to 5VDC. Red wire is 5v positive and black is your negative (ground). If you wanna do it cheap and easy, go buy a usb cigarette adapter, take it apart, then take the wires going to the metal connectors and connect them to your power and ground. then just plug in your usb cord and hide the whole thing in the dash.
Hope this helps.

djspreewell17 said:
What exactly do you need help with? - There are 4 wires in the usb cord. Use red for positive wire but DO NOT connect directly to 12v. USB is 5v so connecting to anything higher WILL fry your phone. You will need to get something that converts 12VDC to 5VDC. Red wire is 5v positive and black is your negative (ground). If you wanna do it cheap and easy, go buy a usb cigarette adapter, take it apart, then take the wires going to the metal connectors and connect them to your power and ground. then just plug in your usb cord and hide the whole thing in the dash.
Hope this helps.
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Yeah, I started looking into it and realized that 5V /= 12V. I'm currently looking at using an old cigarette lighter adapters internals and wiring them into one of those fuse adapters (it'll convert the 12V down to 5V), then take the wires and hook them into a USB cable. I've got to do some measurements and all, so I'll respond back with some pictures of when I start the project. Should cost less than $20 and about an hour of time.

Website showing detail
Alright, I have finally done the project (just have to hook it up). This website shows all of the details. I did use an add-a-fuse instead, but it is essentially the same idea. I will be adding it into my car later today.

Faulty unit - no sound?

I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy

ADB100 said:
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
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Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.

sirleeofroy said:
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
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I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.

ADB100 said:
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
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Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown

sirleeofroy said:
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
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My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?

ADB100 said:
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
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Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.

sirleeofroy said:
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
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The audio is supplied to the amp via a quad-lock connector. So the audio from the rear of the unit connects to this dongle on one side, out the other side of the dongle are four female RCA's. These are connected to four male RCA's that connect to the quad-lock connector. There are two blue wires labelled 'AMP-CON' that have male/female push-fit connectors and these are connected together - I am guessing this is the 12v to switch the amp on? There is also another blue wire labelled 'ANT' with a push-fit connector. This is connected to a green wire coming out of the antenna facra cable.
It was working and nothing has been disturbed so I am fairly sure its not been wired up incorrectly. I think something has broken...
I'll check with a multimeter that I am getting 12v on the AMP-CON cable from the back of the amp first.
Andy

OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy

ADB100 said:
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
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Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.

sirleeofroy said:
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
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Hi, thanks for taking the time to help out. I don't think I described the cabling correctly. The AMP-CON and the ANT come from the same pin in the connector that plugs into the rear of the head unit (one wire comes out and then it splits into two and there is a bit of heat-shrink around the join. If I disconnect the ANT cable from the green wire that comes from the fakra adapter there is sound and the cable goes +10v. If I connect it back up there is a low 'thud' as it makes contact, the sound stops and the voltage drops to 0.something. It seems the fakra adapter is dragging the voltage down, hence why I think this adapter might be faulty.
Andy

I have the same issue now. We’re you able to resolve this?

I am also having this issue.. My HU turns on. Everything works perfectly... Just no sound. None at all. No factory amp. In a 2002 Silverado. I don't know if its the internal amp or what. Ideas?

Question 12v from reverse light not forcing HU into rear cam mode

I have a Navifly 7862 head unit and up until now have not bothered to add a rear cam to integrate into the head unit. My car has a separate factory rear cam that has the monitor integrated into the rear vision mirror.
So due to a rainy weekend, I decided to add a new AHD cam. Cam is wired to the reverse light. My 6m RCA plus power lead at the head unit gets 11 volts when reverse gear is triggered. The RCA gets about 0.5 volts.
The options to connect to the 11 (12) volt red power to the head unit are wires called "Camera B+" (red), "IR" (grey), "Brake In" (pink) and two different unnamed yellow wires that are all running from the same connector from the head unit.
The 11 volt red power is connected to Camera B + yet when in reverse the head unit screen does not change. I have tried the live 11 volt line on IR, Brake In and the 2 yellow wires to try and get the head unit to switch to rear cam mode but I cannot get that to happen.
eve if the camera was faulty, I would expect to see the head unit change from home screen to a blank screen that states "no signal" or similar.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be. I have looked through the settings but am yet to find anything to force the head unit to change to rear cam mode.

ludditefornow said:
I have a Navifly 7862 head unit and up until now have not bothered to add a rear cam to integrate into the head unit. My car has a separate factory rear cam that has the monitor integrated into the rear vision mirror.
So due to a rainy weekend, I decided to add a new AHD cam. Cam is wired to the reverse light. My 6m RCA plus power lead at the head unit gets 11 volts when reverse gear is triggered. The RCA gets about 0.5 volts.
The options to connect to the 11 (12) volt red power to the head unit are wires called "Camera B+" (red), "IR" (grey), "Brake In" (pink) and two different unnamed yellow wires that are all running from the same connector from the head unit.
The 11 volt red power is connected to Camera B + yet when in reverse the head unit screen does not change. I have tried the live 11 volt line on IR, Brake In and the 2 yellow wires to try and get the head unit to switch to rear cam mode but I cannot get that to happen.
eve if the camera was faulty, I would expect to see the head unit change from home screen to a blank screen that states "no signal" or similar.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be. I have looked through the settings but am yet to find anything to force the head unit to change to rear cam mode.
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Go to factory settings and find a setting called "Prohibit Reverse", switch this setting and try again.

ludditefornow said:
I have a Navifly 7862 head unit and up until now have not bothered to add a rear cam to integrate into the head unit. My car has a separate factory rear cam that has the monitor integrated into the rear vision mirror.
So due to a rainy weekend, I decided to add a new AHD cam. Cam is wired to the reverse light. My 6m RCA plus power lead at the head unit gets 11 volts when reverse gear is triggered. The RCA gets about 0.5 volts.
The options to connect to the 11 (12) volt red power to the head unit are wires called "Camera B+" (red), "IR" (grey), "Brake In" (pink) and two different unnamed yellow wires that are all running from the same connector from the head unit.
The 11 volt red power is connected to Camera B + yet when in reverse the head unit screen does not change. I have tried the live 11 volt line on IR, Brake In and the 2 yellow wires to try and get the head unit to switch to rear cam mode but I cannot get that to happen.
eve if the camera was faulty, I would expect to see the head unit change from home screen to a blank screen that states "no signal" or similar.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be. I have looked through the settings but am yet to find anything to force the head unit to change to rear cam mode.
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By the way...
You are forcing 12V into the Videosignal line... What are you doing there?
I just had a look at your attached picture. You should not wonder if the radio is now in the eternal hunting-grounds.
If you don´t know how to install a radio, please search for one who can do that without burning down your car. On top the 12V line just twisted together... Whow...Never seen someone doing such bad things in one single posting.

rigattoni said:
By the way...
You are forcing 12V into the Videosignal line... What are you doing there?
I just had a look at your attached picture. You should not wonder if the radio is now in the eternal hunting-grounds.
If you don´t know how to install a radio, please search for one who can do that without burning down your car. On top the 12V line just twisted together... Whow...Never seen someone doing such bad things in one single posting.
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I have temporarily twisted the wire for testing purposes. I solder and heat seal connections when confirmed. Are you always this critical of people?
So what voltage should be fed to the Camera B + line?
The directions was to tap into the reverse light (which is 12 volt) and send that to the power line that runs parallel with the RCA. Are you suggesting that I shouldn't?
Well how about helping here instead of criticising, please, if you know better.

ludditefornow said:
I have temporarily twisted the wire for testing purposes. I solder and heat seal connections when confirmed. Are you always this critical of people?
So what voltage should be fed to the Camera B + line?
The directions was to tap into the reverse light (which is 12 volt) and send that to the power line that runs parallel with the RCA. Are you suggesting that I shouldn't?
Well how about helping here instead of criticising, please, if you know better.
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Not critical- post is accurate and suggests finding a skilled installer to assist you. Poking power on to the head unit wires without understanding is a sure way to break the unit or vehicle.

marchnz said:
Not critical- post is accurate and suggests finding a skilled installer to assist you. Poking power on to the head unit wires without understanding is a sure way to break the unit or vehicle.
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There are 5 in lines to tap.
The literature that came with the cam as well as all videos online from the likes of Joying that I found show a 12v tap from the rear reverse light for the trigger.
You posted recently about 4PDA not being wanted at XDA because the silo knowledge.
Are you not willing to take a few minutes to actually share knowledge when there is a direct lack of knowledge from suppliers?

Well I found the issue and somehow 'managed' not to destroy my head unit, my car, my house or the local power station.
All connections are nicely soldered and heat shrink wrapped now that I have a permanent fix.
The initial attempt at connecting the 12v line to Camera B + as noted on other how tos did not work.
To stay in the spirit of XDA (unlike the postings of some) I would like to advise that the wiring diagram from Navifly was incorrect.They have the pin 2 on the main connector as the reverse that feeds the CAN module. Pin 2 carries a constant 12v. Pin 3 (pink on my HU connector) carries zero voltage. I tapped pin 3 pink wire on the way to the CAN and added the red daughter wire on my 6m long RCA cable.
My red daughter wire is fed 12v from my rear reverse lamp. Reverse lamp also feeds the reverse cam.
I hope this assists someone in future.

ludditefornow said:
ludditefornow said:
Well I found the issue and somehow 'managed' not to destroy my head unit, my car, my house or the local power station.
All connections are nicely soldered and heat shrink wrapped now that I have a permanent fix.
The initial attempt at connecting the 12v line to Camera B + as noted on other how tos did not work.
To stay in the spirit of XDA (unlike the postings of some) I would like to advise that the wiring diagram from Navifly was
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You did it. Thanks for posting your findings, I believe this has been posted about before.
I wouldn't recommend projecting at those that have actually spent hours to days developing methods, tools and helping others here.

All that because of the canbus. i believe they send you a canbus box that only works for steering wheel buttons and nothing else. i had the same problem and solved it like you did.

ludditefornow said:
To stay in the spirit of XDA (unlike the postings of some) I would like to advise that the wiring diagram from Navifly was incorrect.They have the pin 2 on the main connector as the reverse that feeds the CAN module. Pin 2 carries a constant 12v. Pin 3 (pink on my HU connector) carries zero voltage. I tapped pin 3 pink wire on the way to the CAN and added the red daughter wire on my 6m long RCA cable.
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Sorry to say, but the wiring diagram is not really incorrect. It always depends on the aftermarket cam you use. But it is never a good idea to feed 12V into a CPU which just expects a video signal.
...and if you have a look at the wiring diagram of the camera, it shows 2 different ways to get the cam feeded with 12V.
The first one is the yellow connector which has a red wire coming out.
If you would have used this one, plug it into the "CAM IN" connector of your unit and the red one to the Back wire of your unit you would have been okay.
Using the back light to feed the camera is in most cases not necessary.
By the way... As I have seen that you feed the Video-In chinch-connector with 12V, I really was the meaning that you even don´t know anything about that what you did. I just gave the tip to search someone who knows what he does. I didn´t see any chance to start from scratch to teach you how to do.
I am on top really pissed if I see someone just wiggling cables together.
I just counted 1+1 and decided that I have to stop you doing strange things, which could lead to shorts and such things.
So... if it is working now as expected: Fine! ...and thanks for posting.

rigattoni said:
Sorry to say, but the wiring diagram is not really incorrect. It always depends on the aftermarket cam you use. But it is never a good idea to feed 12V into a CPU which just expects a video signal.
...and if you have a look at the wiring diagram of the camera, it shows 2 different ways to get the cam feeded with 12V.
The first one is the yellow connector which has a red wire coming out.
If you would have used this one, plug it into the "CAM IN" connector of your unit and the red one to the Back wire of your unit you would have been okay.
Using the back light to feed the camera is in most cases not necessary.
By the way... As I have seen that you feed the Video-In chinch-connector with 12V, I really was the meaning that you even don´t know anything about that what you did. I just gave the tip to search someone who knows what he does. I didn´t see any chance to start from scratch to teach you how to do.
I am on top really pissed if I see someone just wiggling cables together.
I just counted 1+1 and decided that I have to stop you doing strange things, which could lead to shorts and such things.
So... if it is working now as expected: Fine! ...and thanks for posting.
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First, the diagram is incorrect and has nothing to do with the aftermarket cam. He didn't feed any 12v to video signal, the red wire is the trigger for the head unit to switch to reverse cam input, the 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera and doesn't need to be connected when you feed the camera from the reverse light. When you put the reverse the head unit must switch to reverse cam input if the canbus box is correct for your car, in this case and mines as well it isn't. The wire he shows came from the canbus box must have 12v when you put in reverse but no 12v

leo06 said:
First, the diagram is incorrect and has nothing to do with the aftermarket cam. He didn't feed any 12v to video signal, the red wire is the trigger for the head unit to switch to reverse cam input, the 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera and doesn't need to be connected when you feed the camera from the reverse light. When you put the reverse the head unit must switch to reverse cam input if the canbus box is correct for your car, in this case and mines as well it isn't. The wire he shows came from the canbus box must have 12v when you put in reverse but no 12v
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Sorry, but you are wrong.
The head unit reacts on a voltage difference to switch to the back view camera. It´s not needed to have 12V feeded to the head unit.
CAM-IN from the head unit expects the video signal nothing else.

rigattoni said:
Sorry, but you are wrong.
The head unit reacts on a voltage difference to switch to the back view camera. It´s not needed to have 12V feeded to the head unit.
CAM-IN from the head unit expects the video signal nothing else.
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Sorry, you are wrong. The cam in expects video and that what gets. The 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera but if you already feed the camera with reverse light not needed to be connected. If the canbus box worked properly, all will work too. Do you have the head unit and everything is working? The diagram is incorrect because the brake ctl is not the brake ctl but the reverse camera trigger

marchnz said:
You did it. Thanks for posting your findings, I believe this has been posted about before.
I wouldn't recommend projecting at those that have actually spent hours to days developing methods, tools and helping others here.
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I searched thoroughly and did not find the answer. Why didn't you link me to the answer?
Based on your condescending and unhelpful posts to me, I don't see why projecting at you in this instance is not unwarranted. You had the answers and you chose to not assist. You siloed.
"Prohibit Reverse", was a total red herring and forced me to add more variables into my testing. I now had to test multiple software options and wiring config as well as the incorrect Navifly info very time consuming.
If you feel I need to be banned for calling out this condescending, repugent and unhelpful responses. Go ahead. I have helped more people in this site than I have received and frankly I don't want to be a part of something where your attitude is acceptable.

If you haven't fixed it. I had the same problem with different HU.
I tought my camera or my wiring at the back of the car was wrong.
The reverse camera (12+) signal cable from the back reverse light goes to the REVERSE or BACK cable mostly at the main harness of the HU. In my case it was orange green from XTRONS.
The other red cable at the Rerverse Camera Video In harness is the so called "CAMERA POWER CABLE 12v" it's very irritating that both cable are red and have something to do with camera.
After restarting the HU it worked.

leo06 said:
Sorry, you are wrong. The cam in expects video and that what gets. The 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera but if you already feed the camera with reverse light not needed to be connected. If the canbus box worked properly, all will work too. Do you have the head unit and everything is working? The diagram is incorrect because the brake ctl is not the brake ctl but the reverse camera trigger
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That wire ( A5? ) isn't it meant to tell the headunit to switch to the reverse camera? Because if I would disconnect the reverse camera, it would still be triggered and show a black screen with the car on the left.
But no image, as the reverse camera is off: the wiring diagram that Mekede and also Ekiy provided was correct. Just there are two methods, one for when you need to use Canbus. And the other more common method, which uses the reverse light for trigger and to power the reverse camera.

DexterMorganNL said:
That wire ( A5? ) isn't it meant to tell the headunit to switch to the reverse camera? Because if I would disconnect the reverse camera, it would still be triggered and show a black screen with the car on the left.
But no image, as the reverse camera is off: the wiring diagram that Mekede and also Ekiy provided was correct. Just there are two methods, one for when you need to use Canbus. And the other more common method, which uses the reverse light for trigger and to power the reverse camera.
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it is swapped, the brake ctl is the reverse camera trigger. In navifly there is no lose cable for triggering, the cable is connected to the canbus box and if that is not working you have to cut the wire and connect the red cable to reverse light and to headunit

Hello @ludditefornow , my iDoing head unit have the same your error. Screen blank when back cable to 12v
I bring mine to a repair center, this error from damaged ic named tp9950
You can search, this tp9950 to control the camera signal
I can not replace this ic, and waiting for new ic, i hope new ic will resolve the camera error.
If you have other solution, please share.
Thank you.

nguyenlaman said:
Hello @ludditefornow , my iDoing head unit have the same your error. Screen blank when back cable to 12v
I bring mine to a repair center, this error from damaged ic named tp9950
You can search, this tp9950 to control the camera signal
I can not replace this ic, and waiting for new ic, i hope new ic will resolve the camera error.
If you have other solution, please share.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Laman, the issue for me was that the wiring diagram from Navifly was incorrect. Look here at wiring. https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...g-hu-into-rear-cam-mode.4479369/post-87280853
When I had the cam wired I needed to put the car in reverse and on the back screen I long pressed on the screen and some options popped up. After that I had cam work.
Let us know if that works for you.

Guys, please help me.
I've installed my Android unit, all okish, but I'm having trouble with the reverse camera.
The instructions are identical with the photo posted by ludditefornow, just in black and white.
The camera connector that goes into the unit has the yellow video jack labeled cam in. Then it has 3 other wires: IR, Break and CCD.
The little red wire on the cable is connected to the IR wire. On the other end it's connected to the 12v reverse light cable.
When in reverse, the unit switches, the parking sensors appear, but there's no picture.
The unit has 2 modes for the reverse camera, AHD (which the camera is supposed to be), and TV. I've tried them both.
One time, just once, the camera showed a black and white, scrambled picture.
I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Please help.
I'll attach a photo with the current wiring.

Question Stock replacement nav for Vitara

Hi,
I'm looking for new android device as replacement for my Bosch stock nav in Suzuki Vitara 2018 GLX. I'm looking at Teyes CC3 or Mekede M500S. I do have few prerequisites
must have options
- compatibility with stock rear camera
- compatibility with steering wheel commands
- compatibility with stock microphone
- compatibility with stock USB ports
nice to have options
- compatibility with stock GPS module (maybe by using FAKRA adapter?)
So far all info I got for M500S is that it cannot use stock rear camera. Is it true? Can it be done with some adapters?
Thank you.

Racker_CRO said:
Hi,
I'm looking for new android device as replacement for my Bosch stock nav in Suzuki Vitara 2018 GLX. I'm looking at Teyes CC3 or Mekede M500S. I do have few prerequisites
must have options
- compatibility with stock rear camera
- compatibility with steering wheel commands
- compatibility with stock microphone
- compatibility with stock USB ports
nice to have options
- compatibility with stock GPS module (maybe by using FAKRA adapter?)
So far all info I got for M500S is that it cannot use stock rear camera. Is it true? Can it be done with some adapters?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Mekede M500s does all 4 of those (oem mic, usb, swc and oem reverse camera on my Kia Sportage.
It just depends on your cars camera, and whether the reseller supplies the necessary adapters.
For example with my car I had to add 2 terminals to the wiring Mekede sent me in order to get the oem mic working.
The head unit was capable of all 4 options you want but the wiring sent to me only supported 3 of the 4.
Look in to your cars camera, what format the video is, what connector it uses, and see if you can find a seller offering a cable to connect the camera just in case 1 doesn't come with the unit.

j0hn83 said:
My Mekede M500s does all 4 of those (oem mic, usb, swc and oem reverse camera on my Kia Sportage.
It just depends on your cars camera, and whether the reseller supplies the necessary adapters.
For example with my car I had to add 2 terminals to the wiring Mekede sent me in order to get the oem mic working.
The head unit was capable of all 4 options you want but the wiring sent to me only supported 3 of the 4.
Look in to your cars camera, what format the video is, what connector it uses, and see if you can find a seller offering a cable to connect the camera just in case 1 doesn't come with the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. I decided to go with Mekede and I bought adapter cable for rev camera. It should all arrive in 2 weeks so I will know than if that was a good choice .

Today I got my stock radio out so I can note all connectors and maybe map them with M500S ones.
Here is a picture of stock Vitara Bosch head unit with description for each connector
GPS - you need FAKRA to SMA adapter
ANT - provided with M500S radio
DAB - you need to buy USB DAB device and FAKRA to SMA adapter (antenna you get with USB radio is not needed)
AUX - not used
MIC - this will be an issue since M500S doesn't have any connector for using stock mic in roof
CAM - you need extra adapter so you can use your stock camera with M500S
USB - compatible with M500S connector + you will get 2 extra USB connectors you can use
H BRAKE - not used on M500S, on stock one you need it to set up AA or mirrorlink
ISO/MAIN - speakers, power, etc.
So only one issue remains and that is how to use stock mics. This is all theoretical for now because I'm still waiting for unit and adapters.
Br.

So device came and of course there are issues.
- USB OEM cable is NOT compatible with M500S port for one USB
- I cant get reverse camera to work. I even bought THIS cable but any way I connect it it doesn't work as it should. I either have revers picture all the time or I don't have it at all.
If anyone can help with camera I would appreciate it. M500S reverse cable has 3 wires labeled "IR", "BRAKE" and "12V CAMERA". Main ISO plug has one purple labeled "BACK". If I connect purple, red and blue from adapter I have picture from camera all the time (shift in any position, neutral, drive, reverese). If I connect only red and purple same thing but with black screen and guidelines.

Racker_CRO said:
So device came and of course there are issues.
- USB OEM cable is NOT compatible with M500S port for one USB
- I cant get reverse camera to work. I even bought THIS cable but any way I connect it it doesn't work as it should. I either have revers picture all the time or I don't have it at all.
If anyone can help with camera I would appreciate it. M500S reverse cable has 3 wires labeled "IR", "BRAKE" and "12V CAMERA". Main ISO plug has one purple labeled "BACK". If I connect purple, red and blue from adapter I have picture from camera all the time (shift in any position, neutral, drive, reverese). If I connect only red and purple same thing but with black screen and guidelines.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The camera should be fairly simple to fault find but the wiring depends on whether you are using a canbus or not.
Answer that and someone will help with connecting the camera properly.

No canbus is used nor it is need for Vitara as I was told.
I'm guessing purple REV wire should get power once I put it in reverse and switch screen to backup camera. I measured voltage on blue wire from adapter and there is no voltage while in reverse.

Solved it! Reverse signal 12V was coming from HANDBRAKE connector. I added extra wire from that pin to purple and blue wires and everthing works.

Racker_CRO said:
So device came and of course there are issues.
- USB OEM cable is NOT compatible with M500S port for one USB
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this what you're looking for?

j0hn83 said:
Is this what you're looking for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YES! Thank you

Cable arrived and works like a charm. So far I managed to get almost all parts in Vitara to work with Mekede unit except external OEM mic. It will take some testing and soldering.

Question [Solved] Mekede 500s reverse camera issues (utter stupidy was the issue in this case)

Hi,
This is a complete rewrite of post #1 as I don't want others to do the stupid things I have done.
When you connect a a reverse camera to your uis7862 or uis8581a unit and you have a CANbus, you simply use the connections as displayed below in the image in post #2 => + wire to the CAM 12V and the RCA plug to the yellow CAM VIN.
Next to that: Have a good look at the last image of post #19 of @Matt Devo where he explains very clearly how it should be done.
And finally: look at post #25 to see what my stupid mistake was.

If you have canbus then you should connect this harness to your unit and marked wire is power wire. I'm not sure if you are talking about this.
Do your unit goes into reverse mode (screen with lines and parking sensor) but without image from camera or doesn't go into this screen at all?
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"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

marjanoos said:
If you have canbus then you should connect this harness to your unit and marked wire is power wire. I'm not sure if you are talking about this.
Do your unit goes into reverse mode (screen with lines and parking sensor) but without image from camera or doesn't go into this screen at all?
View attachment 5914295
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have that harness indeed, and I forgot to mention that I have also connected my +-wire to that 12V CAM wire.
That doesn't work either.
When I set my car in reverse and switch on the parking lines, they are displayed. If I turn my steering wheel they even nicely curve further or less. I simply do not have an image.
Anyway: I just saw a video where the guy says that you should not connect GND in the back to the chassis, but leave it disconnected. I didn't try that yet, but I will try that in a few hours as well.

marjanoos said:
If you have canbus then you should connect this harness to your unit and marked wire is power wire. I'm not sure if you are talking about this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just tested it. When I put the car in reverse, there is no 12V on the CAM 12V wire no. 2 in the picture. There is never 12V on that wire.
However, there is ~13V on the trigger wire when setting the car in reverse.
Connecting the GND wire to GND or not, doesn't make a difference either. I also checked the cables. I get low resistance over the connection, which seems (to me) that the cables are correct.

surfer63 said:
Anyway: I just saw a video where the guy says that you should not connect GND in the back to the chassis, but leave it disconnected. I didn't try that yet, but I will try that in a few hours as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have cvbs camera and I have GND connected to the chasis and it works. Also when I had MTCD device before I had GND just isolated and it also worked.

marjanoos said:
I have cvbs camera and I have GND connected to the chasis and it works. Also when I had MTCD device before I had GND just isolated and it also worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am getting a little desperate. I almost get the idea that the camera itself is not working.

surfer63 said:
I just tested it. When I put the car in reverse, there is no 12V on the CAM 12V wire no. 2 in the picture. There is never 12V on that wire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are settings regarding powering the back camera. I don’t remember where exactly right now.
If that won’t work then your canbox doesn’t support reverse camera (very strange though) or you have wrong canbox settings.

surfer63 said:
I am getting a little desperate. I almost get the idea that the camera itself is not working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well you could try to deliver 12v from another source to check that. For example from fuse box etc or reverse light.

marjanoos said:
Well you could try to deliver 12v from another source to check that. For example from fuse box etc or reverse light.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, but the trigger wire does deliver 12V.

marjanoos said:
There are settings regarding powering the back camera. I don’t remember where exactly right now.
If that won’t work then your canbox doesn’t support reverse camera (very strange though) or you have wrong canbox settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean "Settings -> Factory -> Reverse power supply"?
That is to change ACC/Cont in case your car harness/CANbus is wired incorrectly (or the unit, whichever you blame for it).
But to make sure, I just tested it.
Still no 12V on that 12V CAM wire. Not normally, not in reverse, not after rebooting and testing again.

surfer63 said:
Yes, but the trigger wire does deliver 12V.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I’m not an electrician but if that’s digital signal then it may not be a reliable source of power.
surfer63 said:
Do you mean "Settings -> Factory -> Reverse power supply"?
That is to change ACC/Cont in case your car harness/CANbus is wired incorrectly (or the unit, whichever you blame for it).
But to make sure, I just tested it.
Still no 12V on that 12V CAM wire. Not normally, not in reverse, not after rebooting and testing again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I meant this setting. It’s kind of strange that you don’t have 12v on that wire.
You could also try to use multimeter to assure if cable supplied with camera isn’t damaged.

surfer63 said:
I also checked the cables. I get low resistance over the connection, which seems (to me) that the cables are correct.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
marjanoos said:
I’m not an electrician but if that’s digital signal then it may not be a reliable source of power.
Yes I meant this setting. It’s kind of strange that you don’t have 12v on that wire.
You could also try to use multimeter to assure if cable supplied with camera isn’t damaged.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I said it was a "digital" signal as I meant that it is 0V or 12V, so it is behaving "binary".
However, there are 3 videos on Youtube who do exactly as I described in post #1 using that trigger wire, and they do have a working camera.
Using that backlight power supply is when you don't have a CANbus. Also Joying explains that in one of their videos to use (what they call) the "Back" wire on the unit, and not the back light power supply. Edit: But that might also be the same CAM 12V wire that you mention.
And liked quoting myself above: I already checked the cable. I will get a transformer and simply put 12V on the cable and see what it does. Instead of relying on the head unit.

surfer63 said:
Hi,
I (finally) decided to buy a reverse camera for my Mekede as I lately have neck issues (one gets older).
(I did read the "Teyes CC3 reverse camera help!" thread, which I assume is 95% equal, but still slightly different, so I created a new thread for Mekede/NaviFly)
Car: Skoda Octavia 2015
Unit: Mekede FYT 500S (uis7862)
It is this camera, the 4th in the row. The 170 degrees 1280x720.
As I have a CANbus, I did NOT connect to the reverse light 12V in the back of the car, but I connected my power(+) to the 3rd trigger wire, as supposed for a CANbus. (And just to be sure I watched some youtube videos about "head unit reverse camera canbus")
View attachment 5914121
This trigger wire is a "digital" wire. When not in reverse gear it is 0V. When putting the gear in reverse it sets 12V on the wire. I measured this with a multimeter and it sets indeed 12V (actually slightly more) on the trigger wire.
So on unit side I connect the CAM plug on the CAM IN plug (not the yellow RCA plug) and the red wire to the pink (on Mekede units) trigger wire.
And on the other side, in the back of my car, I connect the red +-wire of the camera to the red +-wire of the extension cable and the ground wire to the chassis.
View attachment 5914243
As I have a 720p AHD camera, I set the "format" in Settings -> Factory -> HD Reversing format" to AHD and the setting to ON. As this didn't work I already tried the other setting, which (of course) didn't work either. And by now I rebooted at least 25 times
As I am a "technical software guy" and not a "hardware guy", I hope that someone can tell me what I am doing wrong.
Edit: I added my camera type up in the post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll just add that i had similar experience and for my issue it came down to my failed attempt to use those wire splicing attachments........well after pulling my hair out i checked and found out they weren't making the electrical connection.......scraped those and soldered the wire contacts instead...... that was the fix for me.
P.s (not using canbus, but reverse light power and ground)

louforgiveno said:
I'll just add that i had similar experience and for my issue it came down to my failed attempt to use those wire splicing attachments........well after pulling my hair out i checked and found out they weren't making the electrical connection.......scraped those and soldered the wire contacts instead...... that was the fix for me.
P.s (not using canbus, but reverse light power and ground)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you solder cables in your car you have to make sure you sealed the connection properly. I used once standard isolating sleeve (without any sealing glue) and the connection rotten because of the moisture.

louforgiveno said:
P.s (not using canbus, but reverse light power and ground)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is one of the reasons I waited so long for buying a camera. My car is a "liftback" model where the camera is in the trunk lid. The tail lights, incl. the reverse light, is in the body of the car. I would have needed another 3 meters of cable only to connect the camera power to the back light power, or split it somewhere in the body in the big cable bundle , which would also require about 2 meters of extra cable and something I really did not want to do.
As I also miss a lot of "tech talk", I only recently learned that I do not need the backlight power at all, but can use the 12V from the unit.
However, so far not working.
I did check with my multimeter and do measure 12V on the spliced/connected wires. I do have 12V and correct cables (measured the resistance).

marjanoos said:
If you solder cables in your car you have to make sure you sealed the connection properly. I used once standard isolating sleeve (without any sealing glue) and the connection rotten because of the moisture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!
Reminded me i need to hit those points with liquid electrical tape !

Your camera is connected to CAM VIN (Shown in reply #2 as image 4)?
Have you tried cutting the white cable loop on your camera that switches between ahd/cvbs?
I have an identical unit to you and my oem camera connected and it "just works" (with both ahd setting enabled and disabled).

j0hn83 said:
1. Your camera is connected to CAM VIN (Shown in reply #2 as image 4)?
2. Have you tried cutting the white cable loop on your camera that switches between ahd/cvbs?
3. I have an identical unit to you and my oem camera connected and it "just works" (with both ahd setting enabled and disabled).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Yes, it is connected to the CAM VIN, although on my cable it says correctly CAM IN.
2. Yes, I did cut the white loop wire (and the green loop wire), and temporarily reconnected the white loop wire (and green loop wire) again to test. But with or without cut white loop wire: no image.
3. You lucky guy

if your canbus box is correctly decoding the reverse msg and signaling the HU to switch to the reverse camera input, then the canbus part is working properly, and the issue is camera power.
On the M500, the HU provides +12v on pin F7 when switching to the reverse camera input via CAN trigger. You should *NOT* connect the camera power directly to the CAN reverse trigger (pin G5 on the main plug). F7 connects to the power lead on the RCA wire. The other end of the power lead connects to the red camera + wire. The black/ground wire does not need to be connected; these cameras use the same ground for the video shield so the RCA plug is providing ground already.
CAM +12v is red wire here:
How I wire up the units I sell:

Thanks for your extensive answer (and as soon as I have a working situation I will make photos like that as well. Very helpful)
The 3rd image with the plug is showing the CAM IN RCA plug (the black wire) and the red CAM 12V wire.
The problem in my case is that that red CAM 12V wire never gets 12V, whereas the the trigger wire (G5 in your first image) does get 12V when I put my gear in reverse..
How do I get 12V on that red 12V wire?
Like I asked in post #10: "Do you mean "Settings -> Factory -> Reverse power supply"?"
Do I need to set that to ON?
I tried that but still no 12V. Do I need to do something else? I rebooted the unit but I did not give it a reset (RST).