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G930F UK
Headphone jack distorts sound on headphones and aux cables, if the volume is halfway its just ok, turn it up and it distorts quite bad and only plays sound on 1 side, software or hardware fault?
Checked for dirt but its fine, tried different earphones and aux leads with the same outcome
Edit:
Not rooted & ended up buying some bluetooth earphones, just need a fix for the aux in the car now, possibly thinking it maybe software related unsure if I should root just yet?
Same exact problem any soloution
iamsloany said:
G930F UK
Headphone jack distorts sound on headphones and aux cables, if the volume is halfway its just ok, turn it up and it distorts quite bad and only plays sound on 1 side, software or hardware fault?
Checked for dirt but its fine, tried different earphones and aux leads with the same outcome
Edit:
Not rooted & ended up buying some bluetooth earphones, just need a fix for the aux in the car now, possibly thinking it maybe software related unsure if I should root just yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really need advice
iamsloany said:
G930F UK
Headphone jack distorts sound on headphones and aux cables, if the volume is halfway its just ok, turn it up and it distorts quite bad and only plays sound on 1 side, software or hardware fault?
Checked for dirt but its fine, tried different earphones and aux leads with the same outcome
Edit:
Not rooted & ended up buying some bluetooth earphones, just need a fix for the aux in the car now, possibly thinking it maybe software related unsure if I should root just yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi! First, we need to determine whether the problem is software or hardware related. An easy way to do this would be to "factory-reset" the device. If doing so, doesn't change the situation and the sound still distorts, you could try flashing a new firmware and see if that helps.
If all of the above fails, it's most certainly a hardware issue and needs to be sent in either for repair or replacement.
Cheers and happy 2018!
Dude this was like way over a year ago ? I've been through 5 other phones since then, thanks though?
Hi guys,
I want to raise the volume level only for my subwoofer, but increasing the sub level in the equalizer results in a higher level for all speakers which sounds terrible.
I have the standard MTCD head unit and connected my active subwoofer to the corresponding ports. I also tried Malaysk ROM and updated MCU, but it remains the same.
Hopefully somebody can help
DieAbrissbirne said:
Hi guys,
I want to raise the volume level only for my subwoofer, but increasing the sub level in the equalizer results in a higher level for all speakers which sounds terrible.
I have the standard MTCD head unit and connected my active subwoofer to the corresponding ports. I also tried Malaysk ROM and updated MCU, but it remains the same.
Hopefully somebody can help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In amplifier app. All the way to the right.
I've found the sub level setting on the amplifier app panel does nothing for me. I change the settings on the amp unit itself. I did use the sub-out on the unit as using any other line-out from the unit resulted in poor audio.
DieAbrissbirne said:
Hi guys,
I want to raise the volume level only for my subwoofer, but increasing the sub level in the equalizer results in a higher level for all speakers which sounds terrible.
I have the standard MTCD head unit and connected my active subwoofer to the corresponding ports. I also tried Malaysk ROM and updated MCU, but it remains the same.
Hopefully somebody can help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok, use the gain knob on the amp which drives the subwoofer impractical, but works...
stefcio007 said:
I've found the sub level setting on the amplifier app panel does nothing for me. I change the settings on the amp unit itself. I did use the sub-out on the unit as using any other line-out from the unit resulted in poor audio.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is exactly my problem and the reason why I'm asking here.
Chaning the level in Equalizer App simply doesn't change anything.
DieAbrissbirne said:
Hi guys,
I want to raise the volume level only for my subwoofer, but increasing the sub level in the equalizer results in a higher level for all speakers which sounds terrible.
I have the standard MTCD head unit and connected my active subwoofer to the corresponding ports. I also tried Malaysk ROM and updated MCU, but it remains the same.
Hopefully somebody can help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DieAbrissbirne said:
This is exactly my problem and the reason why I'm asking here.
Chaning the level in Equalizer App simply doesn't change anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know this won't be too helpful but I have no issues with this function on my PX5 unit, I installed a small sub the other day and I'm able to fully control the level using the far right slider on the EQ.
What might be of assistance is when I was installing the unit into my car, all of the break-out wires that plug into the back of the unit that give you your USB, Phono-in/Phono-out, SUB etc..... there are a couple of these that can be mixed up and potentially plugged into the wrong port.
I know, I did it......
I might be way off the mark but it's worth a look.
sirleeofroy said:
I know this won't be too helpful but I have no issues with this function on my PX5 unit, I installed a small sub the other day and I'm able to fully control the level using the far right slider on the EQ.
What might be of assistance is when I was installing the unit into my car, all of the break-out wires that plug into the back of the unit that give you your USB, Phono-in/Phono-out, SUB etc..... there are a couple of these that can be mixed up and potentially plugged into the wrong port.
I know, I did it......
I might be way off the mark but it's worth a look.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah u're right, but still...if the volume for all speakers change when moving only the sub slider, then there's something fishy there with the unit.
never heard of this effect, it either worked on the sub only or not.
zerozoneice said:
yeah u're right, but still...if the volume for all speakers change when moving only the sub slider, then there's something fishy there with the unit.
never heard of this effect, it either worked on the sub only or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Or probably the subwoofer is not plugged in to the right cable.
zerozoneice said:
yeah u're right, but still...if the volume for all speakers change when moving only the sub slider, then there's something fishy there with the unit.
never heard of this effect, it either worked on the sub only or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the rear breakout connectors are plugged into the wrong port, we have no idea what effect that might have. It could be nothing, or it could be bridging something that sends a funky signal back into the unit.
It's worth eliminating this as a potential issue so that you can troubleshoot further.
Ok first. It should not be a problem if u change the settig for all speakers becouse.... Ur ampfiler has a high pass filter and low passt filter... So if u set more power on low it shold just come to the subwoofer if ur amp is setting right with the filter... The had unit send the low to all speakers but ur amp should just pass this to the subwoofer.
U need check.
1. Did u use chich connectors or just normal kabels
Booth are possible
2. Have ur amp right configuration with high pass low pass filter...
3. Is ur subwoofer right connected to the amp???
U can connect the sub to front or back chinch the sound is everytime the best if ur filter in the amp right configuration.... It dossent metter which port on head unit the signal comes from...
Maybe doing @7floor's sound mod would help ? It will certainly improve the sound quality.
Can i seperate the bass from my speakers and my sub?
When i lower the bass in my equalizer - my sub goes lower as well.
If i turn it up - my sub is fine, but my speakers go wild.
... i plugged it into the "sub" chinc cable... i have no dsp chip - any ideas?
EGOiST1991 said:
Can i seperate the bass from my speakers and my sub?
When i lower the bass in my equalizer - my sub goes lower as well.
If i turn it up - my sub is fine, but my speakers go wild.
... i plugged it into the "sub" chinc cable... i have no dsp chip - any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need a HU that is able to set the crossover. It's on the hardware level. You need another HU or ROM.
jessevdh said:
You need a HU that is able to set the crossover. It's on the hardware level. You need another HU or ROM.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is 2 years old - but thanks bud
I have a head unit which has latest Witson mcu(mx 3.08) (with latest malaysk rom)(BluetoothWirelessChip is MD725). When dealer setup this headunit into my car they installed an external mic to top of the car. Problem is headunit always uses internal mic. Google voice search is working perfectly but with bluetooth calls my sound is bad.
I don't want to dissamble headunit. Is there anything I can try to make external mic work with software? (should i try different mcu's, firmwares, factory settings?, modifications). Because it's really hard to dissamble headunit from car..
traxformania said:
I have a head unit which has latest Witson mcu(mx 3.08) (with latest malaysk rom)(BluetoothWirelessChip is MD725). When dealer setup this headunit into my car they installed an external mic to top of the car. Problem is headunit always uses internal mic. Google voice search is working perfectly but with bluetooth calls my sound is bad.
I don't want to dissamble headunit. Is there anything I can try to make external mic work with software? (should i try different mcu's, firmwares, factory settings?, modifications). Because it's really hard to dissamble headunit from car..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem in a Dasaita PX-5 (MTC-D) unit. Just discovered it a few days ago. I saw in another post somebody claiming that the main problem is that plugging and external mic on the jack does not disables the internal mic (they're in a parallel configuration rather than serial with the mic female jack disconnecting the electrical path of the other mic when something is plugged in). Also, the post stated that the electrical path between the mic and the first chip (Bluetooth?) using the mic signal was long enough to act as an "antenna". If all this is right, I don't think it can be solved with SW settings.
I'm planning to disassemble the unit in a few days as anyways I need to fix other connections and will report back here what I find and if I manage to improve the mic quality on voice calls.
Kr
Max
maxiauer said:
I have the same problem in a Dasaita PX-5 (MTC-D) unit. Just discovered it a few days ago. I saw in another post somebody claiming that the main problem is that plugging and external mic on the jack does not disables the internal mic (they're in a parallel configuration rather than serial with the mic female jack disconnecting the electrical path of the other mic when something is plugged in). Also, the post stated that the electrical path between the mic and the first chip (Bluetooth?) using the mic signal was long enough to act as an "antenna". If all this is right, I don't think it can be solved with SW settings.
I'm planning to disassemble the unit in a few days as anyways I need to fix other connections and will report back here what I find and if I manage to improve the mic quality on voice calls.
Kr
Max
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just read that someone managed to make external mic working with just an older mcu update (2.60). I'll definitely try this.
traxformania said:
I just read that someone managed to make external mic working with just an older mcu update (2.60). I'll definitely try this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, after inspecting the unit, I can confirm that at least the Dasaita ones DO disconnect the internal mic when connecting an external one. But seems that audio quality on calls is a widespread issue. Will keep on checking, but things seem to point to the on-board Bluetooth Chip and some people claims "some" external USB Bluetooth dongles are compatible.
traxformania said:
I just read that someone managed to make external mic working with just an older mcu update (2.60). I'll definitely try this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried this? Does it work? Noticed my rear (external) mic isn't working too. MCU version 3.3
Any update on this one, I am connecting external MIC on dasaita max6 px6 and feeling that internal is still enabled ?
also what is the best location to put the external mic to ave best sound from driver's mouth ?
Hello, i have the same problem with my external microphone on my Dasaita PX6 MAX6.
First of all i should say it was very rough ride even to get my unit. They put ridiculous discount on aliexpress to hook up people to order, then they say "uh-oh sorry but overseas warehouse are empty, please cancel your order" so then you check again and see that there are still units available but the price now is x2 suddenly and surprisingly!
When i told them 'no, i will not cancel the order, i need the unit' - they started to slowly reply on my messages with murky and unclear answers going days and days until finally i put them to the wall and send it to my address in another country.
Their english speaking i think is very bad on purpose.
Second of all - now this problem with the external mic.
Ever since i installed this HU (around 2 months maybe) my friends complain they hear me very bad while talking on the phone. It was just the other week that i got the time to investigate and lo and behold even when the external mic is plugged in - the internal built-in one is still active. I tried 10 times unplugging and plugging, restarting etc but no - still the internal is active.
Knowing the aliexpress-Dasaita are very bad at communicating i contacted facebook-Dasaita. They told me to install the latest firmware - which i did, and nothing changes. Then they told me to contact Dasaita on aliexpress.
I contacted Dasaita aliexperss explaining what i did and the answer is basically: install latest firmware. If it does not work - use the built-in mic.
What the F!>.... Dasaita... Didn't you F-in understand that the internal mic is $h!7? And you sold me problematic unit? ...
https://imgur.com/C8jsu6r
Obviously i will avoid them in the future. They are tricky and deceitful, lie and hide on pretty much every step and run away from their problems, and just trow in some "solution" just because something should be answered... And until someone puts their balls to the wall they will do that...
Now, if anyone else from here can advice how to fix this if he had already fixed his one, please do it will be very much apppreciated.
Thank you
Previously discussed, disconnect internal mic hardware. Have a search for more - detailed info, also MTCB section where this issue was more common.
Agree with comments regarding how Chinese sellers operate on AliExpress, they all seem to be the same. Would be good if they were mandated to honour purchaser local consumer laws.
maxiauer said:
Well, after inspecting the unit, I can confirm that at least the Dasaita ones DO disconnect the internal mic when connecting an external one. But seems that audio quality on calls is a widespread issue. Will keep on checking, but things seem to point to the on-board Bluetooth Chip and some people claims "some" external USB Bluetooth dongles are compatible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I know this was posted a while ago but I have the PX6 10.2 Dasaita and my external mic won't work, even when it's plugged in it still uses the Internal mic and doesn't "register" there's an external mic attached it's garbage. do you know how I would be able to make the external mic work?
Hi, I'm having the same issue, what did you end up doing if I may ask?
psycho.b94 said:
Hi, I'm having the same issue, what did you end up doing if I may ask?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just as has been done since the wince units; disconnect the internal mic. Have a browse through.
marchnz said:
Just as has been done since the wince units; disconnect the internal mic. Have a browse through.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just disconnecting internal mic and adding external mic through mic jack is enough to make external mic work?
After a read thru forums, you could post what you find and ask clarifying questions. Just a suggestion.
Is there a way how to exactly check internal/external mic quality? Or identify which one is in use? I have bought external mic for XTrons PX6 Android 11, MTCH. If I plug mic in, I see no difference. Sound quality is quite good anyway so I am not sure if install external mic I already payed for.
Troll_CZ said:
Is there a way how to exactly check internal/external mic quality? Or identify which one is in use? I have bought external mic for XTrons PX6 Android 11, MTCH. If I plug mic in, I see no difference. Sound quality is quite good anyway so I am not sure if install external mic I already payed for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What has been considered after a searching and reading forums, there is a lot of information covering this issue.
Hello everyone
I tried to use the RCA Line-Level audio outputs of my Dasaita MTCD-PX5 unit to connect an external amplifier, but discovered that there's no signal coming out of them.
Do I need to enable them somewhere on the SW?
Thanks in advance
Max
Hi Max,
I am having the same issue, with Seicane PX30. I have temporarily spliced into the speaker wires since my amp can take high voltage input, however I have static/ clipping noise with high volume.
Please let me know if you figure this out!
SoakedCardinal said:
Hi Max,
I am having the same issue, with Seicane PX30. I have temporarily spliced into the speaker wires since my amp can take high voltage input, however I have static/ clipping noise with high volume.
Please let me know if you figure this out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did the reseller suggest.
currently in communication with support, sent them this:
I have purchased 2014 2015 2016 Subaru WRX Forester 9 inch Android 10.0 Head Unit.
There is no signal coming from the following RCA jacks:
• SUBWOOFER
• FL OUT
• FR OUT
• RL OUT
• RR OUT
They all register 0 volts using 40hz 0db test tone ¾ volume from bluetooth or auxiliary input.
Connecting AUX IN L/R to FL/FR OUT makes the cars 3.5mm aux jack work but there is still no output from the RCA jacks.
My unit has the DSP Sound System. I have seated the connector properly. All other functions are working normally.
How can I make it work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
they completely misunderstood my issue first go round . . will report back
SoakedCardinal said:
currently in communication with support, sent them this:
they completely misunderstood my issue first go round . . will report back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my side, I never found a solution. Played around with several settings, but nothing...
Could this be a ROM issue?
Let me know if they ever reply back
marchnz said:
What did the reseller suggest.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
maxiauer said:
On my side, I never found a solution. Played around with several settings, but nothing...
Could this be a ROM issue?
Let me know if they ever reply back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so . . they basically tried to bribe me $50 to stop bothering them.
I think I might be able to fix the crackliing by using my amp to sum the L + R speaker outputs instead of my homade y splitter from the stock speaker cables at the headunit . .
Sorry for the resurrection, but I just fixed this issue on my PX5 for anyone else running into this problem. TL;DR is that the harness does not have the RCA for Rear speaker outputs wired in but the PX5 DOES have the pins for it. The solution is to wire them into the harness.
SOLVED: Rear RCA Outputs for MTCE PX5
Edit: TL;DR The wiring harness does not have Rear RCA outputs (only front and subwoofer). I had to splice in the RCA for the rear because there are pins outputting signal. (See solution below for details) I'm running Hal9K Mod with Android 10...
forum.xda-developers.com
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
kukoladam said:
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Send it back under warranty.
marchnz said:
Send it back under warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is, that is another week of waiting. I am in connection with the supplier, he asks the manufacturer about the problem. The way is good, since when I plug Front left to the Front left of the amplifier, I head very very weak sound from the front left speakers. But the outcoming signal is unmeasurable. In addition, in the Factory menu there is an option "Power Amplifier Settings", which is gray. Can't be reached..
Maybe somehow it is disabled in the menu, but I could not find in 3 hrs where.
kukoladam said:
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As @marchnz .... send it back under warranty.
Every head unit I have ever had, there is no turn-on for the RCA's because they are already on. That includes my old px5 and new px6.... and I have been using RCA outs only for probably the last 40 years
What you could do is check the pins directly on the head unit plug to see if there is anything there. When you probe it with the multimeter try using a ground inside the machine instead of the ground on the plug.
Bob_Sanders said:
As @marchnz .... send it back under warranty.
Every head unit I have ever had, there is no turn-on for the RCA's because they are already on. That includes my old px5 and new px6.... and I have been using RCA outs only for probably the last 40 years
What you could do is check the pins directly on the head unit plug to see if there is anything there. When you probe it with the multimeter try using a ground inside the machine instead of the ground on the plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Optical toslink between audio equipment is highly preferred.
Even with a common grounding point for -all- connected equipment the chance of an unsnubbed high frequency feedback loop is real.
If so it will likely blow all your twitters and possibly the power amp in seconds*.
If the amp's big enough you'll see smoke and fire
At the very least use a common grounding point for all pieces of equipment. Use heavy gauge wire and keep the wire length as short as possible.
*A high frequency typically 40hz or higher feedback loop when fed into and/or through a power amp will result in a huge wattage output at that frequency. It will cause the speaker bypass to shunt all of it through your tweeters and effectively short out the power amp
You probably know much more about this than I do, but a few things don't make sense to me. You said high frequency feedback loop, but then referenced 40hz. Did you mean 40khz? 40hz is a pretty low frequency and I would think would be cut out by both integrated HPFs and amp level HPFs. I am very familiar with toslink as I use them between my PC and home audio amplifier, but I've never heard of them used between a head unit and amp. Every head unit and amp I've ever owned have used RCA outputs. I'm not saying the risk isn't there but why would both head unit and amp manufacturers not use them if RCA is so dangerous? It really is an honest question, so please don't take offense.
blackhawk said:
Optical toslink between audio equipment is highly preferred.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... toslink is preferred in high end equipment (bandwidth suffers in the cheap stuff).... and I would not describe these head units as "high end"
blackhawk said:
Even with a common grounding point for -all- connected equipment the chance of an unsnubbed high frequency feedback loop is real.
If so it will likely blow all your twitters and possibly the power amp in seconds*.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you misunderstand. I'm asking OP to look for a common ground FOR TESTING with his multimeter. If all the rca's are not working then there is a chance that something common (like the ground on the rca jacks) is broken.
objecttothis said:
You probably know much more about this than I do, but a few things don't make sense to me. You said high frequency feedback loop, but then referenced 40hz. Did you mean 40khz? 40hz is a pretty low frequency and I would think would be cut out by both integrated HPFs and amp level HPFs. I am very familiar with toslink as I use them between my PC and home audio amplifier, but I've never heard of them used between a head unit and amp. Every head unit and amp I've ever owned have used RCA outputs. I'm not saying the risk isn't there but why would both head unit and amp manufacturers not use them if RCA is so dangerous? It really is an honest question, so please don't take offense.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RCA's are mostly used on automotive head units. They have been around for decades. toslink is the new kid on the block and there are a lot of problems with it... frequency issues, sample matching issues, select few apps to use toslink with... yadda yadda. Personally speaking, I wouldn't use toslink instead of rca in a million years. Now it does have the advantage of less noise pickup on long runs of cable, but manucacturers like pioneer, alpine, kenwood... etc have combatted the noise issues with high voltage output from the rca's (pioneers are now 4 volts peak to peak on the rca's while android is still something like 1.4 volt PtoP). Then on the other hand with toslink you need HIGH QUALITY dac's to avoid sample and frequncy issues... and these android head units are NOT what I would describe as anywhere NEAR "high end"+
toslink.... not me thank you... not at this low price level anyway.
As for blowing tweets with stray "40hz" signals.... hasn't happened to me in 40 years of using rca's
Bob_Sanders said:
Well... toslink is preferred in high end equipment (bandwidth suffers in the cheap stuff).... and I would not describe these head units as "high end"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a friendly old school warning so peeps never learn what driver coils smell like...
Cheap stuff will likely have less design fedback safeguards than high end equipment.
Regardless of the amp's frequency response the fed back will be on the high end. 10khz would still behave like 60khz as far as the crossover is concerned.
Regardless its best to wire/ground it proper for best performance and minimal voltage drops... wire is cheap.
I have a friend that saw this happen on a high end system. All they heard was a static like noise and in less than a second the tweeters were smoking. A couple hundred down the drain. It can get real expensive fast and by the time you realize it's happening, it's already done.
Yeah, I don't think anyone sees these as high end in the audio production department. I think they have become somewhat popular because a lot of the main players in audio head units have been a little slow in the freedoms that Android provides in terms of apps, navigation, etc. They are too busy pushing their proprietary interface crap.
blackhawk said:
Just a friendly old school warning so peeps never learn what driver coils smell like...
Cheap stuff will likely have less design fedback safeguards than high end equipment.
Regardless of the amp's frequency response the fed back will be on the high end. 10khz would still behave like 60khz as far as the crossover is concerned.
Regardless its best to wire/ground it proper for best performance and minimal voltage drops... wire is cheap.
I have a friend that saw this happen on a high end system. All they heard was a static like noise and in less than a second the tweeters were smoking. A couple hundred down the drain. It can get real expensive fast and by the time you realize it's happening, it's already done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can blow a simple ic chip with static so we shouldn't use them? Freak things happen. That's life.
Bob_Sanders said:
You can blow a simple ic chip with static so we shouldn't use them? Freak things happen. That's life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No that's ignorance and ineptitude.
I handled thousands of IC's and flat packs without damaging them by heat or ESD.
On a high end system with 7 mains blowing them out alone would be over $2G in replacement parts.
Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
objecttothis said:
Yeah, I don't think anyone sees these as high end in the audio production department. I think they have become somewhat popular because a lot of the main players in audio head units have been a little slow in the freedoms that Android provides in terms of apps, navigation, etc. They are too busy pushing their proprietary interface crap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... as far as I know the higher end units are still going RCA..... and if there is ever a change I suspect toslink will be passed over in favor of the MUCH BETTER hdmi standard anyway.
Hi,
I have the Seicane PX5 MTCE HF and it was working fine until 2 months ago, a screeching sound happen and then no more sound!
I have contacted the sales person and I was trying to get it fix, with the support.
They never heard that sound before.
in any case, they can't help.
I would like to know if anyone can identify the sound and if it is possible to fix.
I'm ready to use a USB DAC if nothing else work.
The sound happear every time I start the car, about 1 to 2 mins after it started, then nothing... until the car cool again.
Before the screaching sound happen, the unit work normaly, the sound is normal.
Even if there is no music, the sound happen.
Any input is the same results.
The rest of the unit work the same, just no more sounds.
*** Results ***
I want to thank you all for your tips and things to look for.
I did find that the amplifier IC is way too hot and did crack the PCB on the edje and few coposants have crack too.
I tried to replace them, but still the amplifier is still too hot after I fill out the gaps beteen the IC and the cassing.
In any case I decided to replace the unit.
I bought a YT9213A_00009_v001_20200806
8227L v 3.4
MCU 3.1 (?)
... and I regret it, no output for the back speakers, no base sound at all!
I bought an external amplifier 4x50w and 600w subwoofer and the RCA plugs have no output on the back two speakers and no subwoofer output!
So, it is slower than the PX5, the radio is only FM and loose the signals all the time, sometime it switch the station by itself!
I'm not happy with the unit, difficult to do setup as of now, the buttons on the side are no longer working.
Like I said, not happy.
If you know a way to reset ALL options to get back the buttons, that would be a step in the correct direction.
Thank you again for all of your tips to fix the PX5.
Richard.
When I took my HU apart I found there was a load of heatsink compound between the amp IC and the case indicating there's a large gap between the 2. I used thermal epoxy to shim the case and close the gap but there's a good chance simply re-mounting the board would have been enough.
All you need to do is undo all the board mounting screws except the ones for the amp. Tighten the amp screws but don't go crazy they're fairly small screws and won't take too much torque then put the board screws back in with a small screwdriver so not to over torque them.
nic2k said:
When I took my HU apart I found there was a load of heatsink compound between the amp IC and the case indicating there's a large gap between the 2. I used thermal epoxy to shim the case and close the gap but there's a good chance simply re-mounting the board would have been enough.
All you need to do is undo all the board mounting screws except the ones for the amp. Tighten the amp screws but don't go crazy they're fairly small screws and won't take too much torque then put the board screws back in with a small screwdriver so not to over torque them.
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Click to collapse
Hi nic2k,
Thank you for your suggestion, I'll have to wait until the weather is a bit warmer.
Thank you for looking into this bizarre sound.
Have a great one!
Richard.
VE2HRJ said:
I have the Seicane PX5 MTCE HF
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Click to collapse
You could try to upgrade the MCU to this one if your version is lower and your head unit doesn't have a dedicated DSP chip:
latest MCU HF available on the net: V3.30 sound patched for better audio
dmcu(MTCE-HF-3.30sp+by+cs-x).7z
https://mega.nz/#F!T1FgjA7A!wc9p40bocqCiBX8XPR50ig?jhUEmAYD
Hi themissionimpossible,
Thank you for the MTCE file, I already update to v3.30.You mentioned: “... your head unit doesn't have a dedicated DSP chip”, how can I know?
There another effect from the new version of the MTCE: the Wifi selection under [Setup], [Car], [Factory Setup]: the Wifi module name is not there anymore, nor the Bluetooth!
So even if I tried each one, reboot, test… still no Wifi or Bluetooth for now, but that’s another story.
I’ll try nic2k's suggestion when the weather cooperates.
Thank you again for your suggestion, much appreciated.
Richard.
VE2HRJ said:
You mentioned: “... your head unit doesn't have a dedicated DSP chip”, how can I know?
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Click to collapse
Besides looking inside the HU for the DSP board, you might find from the specs if your unit has this option included (indeed not very common...)
Hi,
what upgrade to MCU: M32L0_ZIQI-PUBLIC-W-S16_20190801_HB1_6686_N_IF_8A ?
MediaTek MT8321M 4xARM Cortex-A7 1300MHz 32-bit
Thank you
Jan
jan1994 said:
what upgrade to MCU: M32L0_ZIQI-PUBLIC-W-S16_20190801_HB1_6686_N_IF_8A ?
MediaTek MT8321M 4xARM Cortex-A7 1300MHz 32-bit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately you don't look to have a MTCB or MTCD/E head unit, so you'd better ask in the general section:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/android-head-units