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New MTCD unit, have some issues...

So I just got an MTCD head unit (JY-UL-135). My first Android head unit and so far I'm massively underwhelmed and need guidance to fix a few potential issues. I try to keep my car as stock-looking as possible, so I REALLY don't want switches and knobs all over my interior to do things any other head unit would...
So, issue 1.) The power antenna on my car comes up whenever the head unit is on, even when I'm not using the radio. I almost never use the radio and I don't want my antenna up all the time. Any way to fix this without a switch or disconnecting it entirely?
2.) Bluetooth... I'm not heart broken about losing clear bluetooth audio streaming, (something my cheaper alpine unit had no problem with...) and i use a wired mic, but if this thing can't connect to basic blutooth tech, i may return it. 90% of the reason i got this thing was for a bluetooth garage remote, obd2 reader, bluetooth tire pressure sensors, and a bluetooth arduino board for another project. If this really can't do things even my phone can, it's junk. Those accessories will be delivered next week so i'll find out then but it seems like they shipped this unit with broken bluetooth and still haven't fixed it. Help?
3.) Steering wheel controls. So i understand that without xposed, android head units can only use steering wheel controls for the stock apps. And xposed doesn't work on MTCD units yet...
It's also the slowest android i've seen since my old, old. OLD droid x but that may not be that big a deal over time. So can anyone point me in the right direction for these issues? Also does anyone make a better unit than these?

I returned my mtcd unit because of wifi and bluetooth issues. The antenna issue you have is probably because you hooked up to remote blue line instead of antenna blue line.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk

supersilko said:
I returned my mtcd unit because of wifi and bluetooth issues. The antenna issue you have is probably because you hooked up to remote blue line instead of antenna blue line.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, i might have... but what did you replace the MTCD unit with, an MTCB?
EDIT: I have a crazy idea to keep my nice single din alpine unit connected to my sound system and mount it in my glove box, then connect the android unit to its aux in. Then put the steering wheel controls on a 3.5mm switch box between both units. I'd use the alpine for audio processing, bluetooth music, and hands free calls, then the android for android apps + backup camera and thumbstick music. Am I insane or would this be a good compromise? My phone would also control all the bluetooth peripherals I mentioned. I also plan on getting a dedicated second battery for the audio equipment (already have 2 amps plus a capacitor) so that might be more critical afterwards.

I'm back to stock stereo. Gonna look around for a good unit that is coming later.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk

I just got a Joying unit for a Jeep this weekend.
#1 - can't help, Jeep antenna stays up all the time
#2 - I only use Bluetooth for phone calls or playing audio, works fine in both scenarios. One odd caveat is that if I am on a phone call the audio seems only to come out of the front passenger speaker. I use the included external mic and people say I sound fine
#3 - My steering wheel controls half work. Volume and mute work all the time, same for Bluetooth phone. The controls to change the track only work on stock apps like Music, A2DP, DVD, etc, meaning it does not work on Google Play Music or Pandora. Volume steering wheel controls work fine with Pandora and Google Play Music

I have the Same Unit.. I have it on the bench as I was getting ready to installing in place of my Newsmy. I tested the remote lines tonight.
Power antenna, shows 12v once power is applied.. stays at 12v until Accessory power is removed.
Amp Remote works as it should, it I power off the radio from the knob. the 12v amp remote turns off.. Ant stays on.. ALL THE TIME. This unit is no better than my Newsmy. I have had it too long now to return it. Guess I will sell it for something simple. I am going to miss the back up camera, but I need something that fully works as I have full power mast antenna..

TallgeeseIV said:
So I just got an MTCD head unit (JY-UL-135). My first Android head unit and so far I'm massively underwhelmed and need guidance to fix a few potential issues. I try to keep my car as stock-looking as possible, so I REALLY don't want switches and knobs all over my interior to do things any other head unit would...
So, issue 1.) The power antenna on my car comes up whenever the head unit is on, even when I'm not using the radio. I almost never use the radio and I don't want my antenna up all the time. Any way to fix this without a switch or disconnecting it entirely?
2.) Bluetooth... I'm not heart broken about losing clear bluetooth audio streaming, (something my cheaper alpine unit had no problem with...) and i use a wired mic, but if this thing can't connect to basic blutooth tech, i may return it. 90% of the reason i got this thing was for a bluetooth garage remote, obd2 reader, bluetooth tire pressure sensors, and a bluetooth arduino board for another project. If this really can't do things even my phone can, it's junk. Those accessories will be delivered next week so i'll find out then but it seems like they shipped this unit with broken bluetooth and still haven't fixed it. Help?
3.) Steering wheel controls. So i understand that without xposed, android head units can only use steering wheel controls for the stock apps. And xposed doesn't work on MTCD units yet...
It's also the slowest android i've seen since my old, old. OLD droid x but that may not be that big a deal over time. So can anyone point me in the right direction for these issues? Also does anyone make a better unit than these?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
JY-UL124 here
+1 to Bluetooth issues. SuperSU completely broke bluetooth forcing me to reflash to get any functionality back.
I'm really bummed they basically lock you into joining only a phone and an ODB device and that's it. Nothing else can be paired with the unit. This is a little hokey and really devalues the whole system in my opinion.
Bluetooth has pretty poor sound quality through the unit too but it may not be bluetooth specifically causing the issue. I drive an FJ cruiser so cabin sound proofing isn't great to begin with. To compete with road noise I have to blast the stereo and the highs come up fuzzy in the process. When I'm stopped or idleing it seems that most of my issue goes away and the sound isn't half bad provided I'm playing from a sound file physically on my phone and not streaming. I need to tear into it again later to install the front camera and fog lights so when I do that I'll add in some capacitors and a torrid to try to clean up power to the unit to see if that helps.
If I'm right, the bluetooth is functional so far as taking the signal and turning it into meaningful audio. It's a digital technology so either the data gets there or it doesn't. I haven't dug too much into the spec but I assume I should be hearing whatever I hear at idle at any speed. Anyhow, once that is turned into an analog signal for delivery to the speakers (and the functional parts in between) that's where you can introduce sound degradation. So this is a function of the amp, or the fact that my hookup wires or so long, or something. I have also noticed that shortly after "bluetoothing" a short sound like a delivery notice the amp stays on for a short second or so and you can hear the interference with some digital rf. (like the sound you get when you put a cell phone too close to computer speakers) It's faint but it is there along with some static. There is no way that bare speaker wire could pick up digital rf and make it sound that loud, so that means somehow rf is leaking into the circuitry before the amp.
I'm praying I'm right and it's leaking in through power somewhere cause that's an easy fix. If it's not then it's something with the board design and there's rf leaking from the circuitry and making it into the audio signal inside the unit. That has a low probability of being fixable.

Eonon GA8157 - Audi A3 8PA 2006

Hi there guys.
I just bought a piece of Eonon GA8157 from Eonon. After the install, i got a few small issues (or big, depending on my mood ). Although the biggest of them is that my rear amplifier, that amplifies the subwoofer and the rear speakers isn't working, i have no ideea why, because i have alot of cables, and they were just plug and play.
My problem is the internet. I have two modems along with sim cards inserted. One is ZTE MF667 and the other is ZTE K3565-Z. None of them works. I don't know if there is a list of supported modems, but i thought that they were just plug and play.
From what i understand, i can however make these work if i root my device. I'm great at rooting mobile devices, but i don't want to ruin something to this head unit because it seems hard to modify something.
So, that is the question. Can i root this head unit, or install another firmware, or something to make this usb modems work?
If not, can you recomend me another modem? this unit is dead without internet connection, and i don't want to drain my phone battery by hotspotting it.
Operation System Android 7.1
CPU Processor RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad-Core
RAM SAMSUNG DDR3, 2GB
Memory 16 GB
Based on what i read, i guess that my device is PX3.
Thank you, in advance!
Alin.

I have a 2007 A4 with a MTCD_XRC head unit and I also have the rear amp, but I notice that the rear speakers are much lower then the fronts. I bought a line level converter and was messing with that and a ground loop isolator to get rid of the engine noise. But I have noticed after messing with it, even without ANY rca cables plugged in I still get audio out haha. I have looked at the wiring and I believe what needs to happen to make things totally correct is you need to rewire the back rca cables to go through the converter and completely bypass the rear amp as the head unit has enough juice to power all of the speakers. I also noticed after messing with things that I no longer needed the isolator on any of the speakers and I just moved the center to the rear a few click and it seems to level things out for the time being.
I've messed with a Huewei Cricket USB 4g dealio here and I was able to kind of get it working by using the PPP widget, but I was not getting connected, but the lights were changing so I am pretty sure its working, it just needs some fine tuning (I have project fi as my service provider)
I can try to help ya out if you need a hand, but I if you look further into some of the stuff I have mentioned I think you can figure it out.

Hi, thank you for your comment!
I was thinking at the same ideea yesterday. The amplifier from the unit is very powerfull, much powerfull than the audi one. My front speakers are more powerfull than ever, yet, my back speakers aren't.
My ideea was to rewire the back speakers to the back of the head unit, and connect them in line, but i have no ideea how the subwoofer works. I didn't saw any wires for it. Maybe he's connected in line with the rear speakers?

Fakken said:
Hi, thank you for your comment!
I was thinking at the same ideea yesterday. The amplifier from the unit is very powerfull, much powerfull than the audi one. My front speakers are more powerfull than ever, yet, my back speakers aren't.
My ideea was to rewire the back speakers to the back of the head unit, and connect them in line, but i have no ideea how the subwoofer works. I didn't saw any wires for it. Maybe he's connected in line with the rear speakers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The built in sub runs off of the rear amp as well. I disconnected and removed that a long time ago and I have a box in my trunk with 2 x 12 inch subs and a separate amp in the back left (It used to be mounted on the back side in the truck of a rear seat). And now with the android unit I ran a dedicated RCA from the back to the trunk for my external amp, I used to run it off of the line outs I tapped into on the rear stock amp.
So if you just wire to the rear speakers directly you should be good.

Thank you!
That was exactly what the chinese guys from eonon said today.
Rewire the cables and i should be good.
I will try this and see if it works along with the sub.
If not, i will rip all the wires, rewire the rear speakers directly to the head unit and buy an aftermarket active subwoofer, and connect it to the sub RCA of the unit.
End of story

Fakken said:
Thank you!
That was exactly what the chinese guys from eonon said today.
Rewire the cables and i should be good.
I will try this and see if it works along with the sub.
If not, i will rip all the wires, rewire the rear speakers directly to the head unit and buy an aftermarket active subwoofer, and connect it to the sub RCA of the unit.
End of story
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not exactly the same, but some good similar info just to dig through to get ideas, I do not agree with all of it but just good to mull over. I have so many pages saved of people talking about similar stuff when I was doing research on mine haha.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7158675-Head-Unit-Recommendation/page2

Erisin head unit in Skoda Superb, static across all channels

Installed the Erisin ES7915v in a 2009 Skoda Superb a few days ago. PX5 running Android 9.0.
Install was fine and things are working well except for a constant static that appears whenever the volume is above zero. The static does not change volume but it's easily noticeable at lower volumes especially on e.g. non-music radio. There was no static at all on the previous setup (the factory fitted Skoda Columbus / RNS 510). Turn volume to zero and static disappears.
The car has an amp under the passenger seat (factory fitted again). It doesn't use RCA cables - just standard speaker wire cables from the wiring harness in the head unit down to the amp and then out to the speakers. The head unit has the option of using RCA cables.
So:
1. I've altered gain up to -15 and it doesn't have any overall effect.
2. While the static volume doesn't change, the pitch can do so with acceleration etc.
3. It's not related to the screen or the button colours - I've altered those / turned screen off but it has zero effect.
4. I can use the software amp to bring down treble frequencies which helps lower the static but that's not ideal and doesn't come close to eliminating the whole noise.
5. I've tried running a ground wire attached to the head unit to the chassis but no effect.
6. No dash cam. No DAB. No reversing cam (yet).
7. I have a 4g dongle in the glovebox providing wifi but the static is there whether this is on or off.
8. Unplugging the radio aerial doesn't have an effect.
9. Unplugging GPS aerial doesn't have an effect.
Any further suggestions? And is this a faulty unit OR is this likely to happen even if I get a replacement?

heddyheddy said:
Installed the Erisin ES7915v in a 2009 Skoda Superb a few days ago. PX5 running Android 9.0.
Install was fine and things are working well except for a constant static that appears whenever the volume is above zero. The static does not change volume but it's easily noticeable at lower volumes especially on e.g. non-music radio. There was no static at all on the previous setup (the factory fitted Skoda Columbus / RNS 510). Turn volume to zero and static disappears.
The car has an amp under the passenger seat (factory fitted again). It doesn't use RCA cables - just standard speaker wire cables from the wiring harness in the head unit down to the amp and then out to the speakers. The head unit has the option of using RCA cables.
So:
1. I've altered gain up to -15 and it doesn't have any overall effect.
2. While the static volume doesn't change, the pitch can do so with acceleration etc.
3. It's not related to the screen or the button colours - I've altered those / turned screen off but it has zero effect.
4. I can use the software amp to bring down treble frequencies which helps lower the static but that's not ideal and doesn't come close to eliminating the whole noise.
5. I've tried running a ground wire attached to the head unit to the chassis but no effect.
6. No dash cam. No DAB. No reversing cam (yet).
7. I have a 4g dongle in the glovebox providing wifi but the static is there whether this is on or off.
8. Unplugging the radio aerial doesn't have an effect.
9. Unplugging GPS aerial doesn't have an effect.
Any further suggestions? And is this a faulty unit OR is this likely to happen even if I get a replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did the reseller suggest to resolve the issue?

So far the reseller response is " " because they haven't replied to two emails.

heddyheddy said:
So far the reseller response is " " because they haven't replied to two emails.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Suggest identifying the actual model of your unit; if it's an MTCD or mtce, there are others complaining of similar issues in the threads that you might want to look for.

marchnz said:
Suggest identifying the actual model of your unit; if it's an MTCD or mtce, there are others complaining of similar issues in the threads that you might want to look for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I'll post that later when I am with the car again. I checked through a lot of previous threads and the few solutions that have helped others on occasion were no good for me.

marchnz said:
Suggest identifying the actual model of your unit; if it's an MTCD or mtce(
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So this is an MTCE unit:
MTCE_LM_V3.12_1
May 16 2019
Model: PX5(1024x600)
CPU: Octa-core Cortex-A53 @ 1.5G
Build number: rk3368-userdebug 9 PQ2A and I can type out the rest if it's important.
So I guess that means it's from LEI_MA Lei Electronics Inc
I have also found that the static is caused by the lights. With headlights / sidelights OFF, there is no static. It *doesn't* appear to be the result of the LCD or the lights of the buttons on the unit (this has been an issue for others). When I turn the headlights off, the static goes immediately but the lights on the unit remain on for half a second - but the static has already ceased.
So with that knowledge, should I move this post or is this the place for MTCE discussion as well?
Any thoughts on how best to tackle the interference from the lights would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hello,
I hope you find solution with the static.
Since i am interested also for this unit, can you tell if everything else works fine?
Does the CANbus fitted directly?
Steering wheel controls works fine?
How much time the unit need to boot?
Thanks

Same unit, same Problem. VW Golf 5 (2008).
I could solve the problem. The radio antenna is not connected and it is gone. Likewise with only one antenna connected (double fakra), it is gone. Radio still works.

Enabling RCA Audio outputs?

Hello everyone
I tried to use the RCA Line-Level audio outputs of my Dasaita MTCD-PX5 unit to connect an external amplifier, but discovered that there's no signal coming out of them.
Do I need to enable them somewhere on the SW?
Thanks in advance
Max

Hi Max,
I am having the same issue, with Seicane PX30. I have temporarily spliced into the speaker wires since my amp can take high voltage input, however I have static/ clipping noise with high volume.
Please let me know if you figure this out!

SoakedCardinal said:
Hi Max,
I am having the same issue, with Seicane PX30. I have temporarily spliced into the speaker wires since my amp can take high voltage input, however I have static/ clipping noise with high volume.
Please let me know if you figure this out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did the reseller suggest.

currently in communication with support, sent them this:
I have purchased 2014 2015 2016 Subaru WRX Forester 9 inch Android 10.0 Head Unit.
There is no signal coming from the following RCA jacks:
• SUBWOOFER
• FL OUT
• FR OUT
• RL OUT
• RR OUT
They all register 0 volts using 40hz 0db test tone ¾ volume from bluetooth or auxiliary input.
Connecting AUX IN L/R to FL/FR OUT makes the cars 3.5mm aux jack work but there is still no output from the RCA jacks.
My unit has the DSP Sound System. I have seated the connector properly. All other functions are working normally.
How can I make it work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
they completely misunderstood my issue first go round . . will report back

SoakedCardinal said:
currently in communication with support, sent them this:
they completely misunderstood my issue first go round . . will report back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my side, I never found a solution. Played around with several settings, but nothing...
Could this be a ROM issue?
Let me know if they ever reply back

marchnz said:
What did the reseller suggest.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
maxiauer said:
On my side, I never found a solution. Played around with several settings, but nothing...
Could this be a ROM issue?
Let me know if they ever reply back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so . . they basically tried to bribe me $50 to stop bothering them.
I think I might be able to fix the crackliing by using my amp to sum the L + R speaker outputs instead of my homade y splitter from the stock speaker cables at the headunit . .

Sorry for the resurrection, but I just fixed this issue on my PX5 for anyone else running into this problem. TL;DR is that the harness does not have the RCA for Rear speaker outputs wired in but the PX5 DOES have the pins for it. The solution is to wire them into the harness.
SOLVED: Rear RCA Outputs for MTCE PX5
Edit: TL;DR The wiring harness does not have Rear RCA outputs (only front and subwoofer). I had to splice in the RCA for the rear because there are pins outputting signal. (See solution below for details) I'm running Hal9K Mod with Android 10...
forum.xda-developers.com

Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?

kukoladam said:
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Send it back under warranty.

marchnz said:
Send it back under warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is, that is another week of waiting. I am in connection with the supplier, he asks the manufacturer about the problem. The way is good, since when I plug Front left to the Front left of the amplifier, I head very very weak sound from the front left speakers. But the outcoming signal is unmeasurable. In addition, in the Factory menu there is an option "Power Amplifier Settings", which is gray. Can't be reached..
Maybe somehow it is disabled in the menu, but I could not find in 3 hrs where.

kukoladam said:
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As @marchnz .... send it back under warranty.
Every head unit I have ever had, there is no turn-on for the RCA's because they are already on. That includes my old px5 and new px6.... and I have been using RCA outs only for probably the last 40 years
What you could do is check the pins directly on the head unit plug to see if there is anything there. When you probe it with the multimeter try using a ground inside the machine instead of the ground on the plug.

Bob_Sanders said:
As @marchnz .... send it back under warranty.
Every head unit I have ever had, there is no turn-on for the RCA's because they are already on. That includes my old px5 and new px6.... and I have been using RCA outs only for probably the last 40 years
What you could do is check the pins directly on the head unit plug to see if there is anything there. When you probe it with the multimeter try using a ground inside the machine instead of the ground on the plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Optical toslink between audio equipment is highly preferred.
Even with a common grounding point for -all- connected equipment the chance of an unsnubbed high frequency feedback loop is real.
If so it will likely blow all your twitters and possibly the power amp in seconds*.
If the amp's big enough you'll see smoke and fire
At the very least use a common grounding point for all pieces of equipment. Use heavy gauge wire and keep the wire length as short as possible.
*A high frequency typically 40hz or higher feedback loop when fed into and/or through a power amp will result in a huge wattage output at that frequency. It will cause the speaker bypass to shunt all of it through your tweeters and effectively short out the power amp

You probably know much more about this than I do, but a few things don't make sense to me. You said high frequency feedback loop, but then referenced 40hz. Did you mean 40khz? 40hz is a pretty low frequency and I would think would be cut out by both integrated HPFs and amp level HPFs. I am very familiar with toslink as I use them between my PC and home audio amplifier, but I've never heard of them used between a head unit and amp. Every head unit and amp I've ever owned have used RCA outputs. I'm not saying the risk isn't there but why would both head unit and amp manufacturers not use them if RCA is so dangerous? It really is an honest question, so please don't take offense.

blackhawk said:
Optical toslink between audio equipment is highly preferred.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... toslink is preferred in high end equipment (bandwidth suffers in the cheap stuff).... and I would not describe these head units as "high end"
blackhawk said:
Even with a common grounding point for -all- connected equipment the chance of an unsnubbed high frequency feedback loop is real.
If so it will likely blow all your twitters and possibly the power amp in seconds*.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you misunderstand. I'm asking OP to look for a common ground FOR TESTING with his multimeter. If all the rca's are not working then there is a chance that something common (like the ground on the rca jacks) is broken.

objecttothis said:
You probably know much more about this than I do, but a few things don't make sense to me. You said high frequency feedback loop, but then referenced 40hz. Did you mean 40khz? 40hz is a pretty low frequency and I would think would be cut out by both integrated HPFs and amp level HPFs. I am very familiar with toslink as I use them between my PC and home audio amplifier, but I've never heard of them used between a head unit and amp. Every head unit and amp I've ever owned have used RCA outputs. I'm not saying the risk isn't there but why would both head unit and amp manufacturers not use them if RCA is so dangerous? It really is an honest question, so please don't take offense.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RCA's are mostly used on automotive head units. They have been around for decades. toslink is the new kid on the block and there are a lot of problems with it... frequency issues, sample matching issues, select few apps to use toslink with... yadda yadda. Personally speaking, I wouldn't use toslink instead of rca in a million years. Now it does have the advantage of less noise pickup on long runs of cable, but manucacturers like pioneer, alpine, kenwood... etc have combatted the noise issues with high voltage output from the rca's (pioneers are now 4 volts peak to peak on the rca's while android is still something like 1.4 volt PtoP). Then on the other hand with toslink you need HIGH QUALITY dac's to avoid sample and frequncy issues... and these android head units are NOT what I would describe as anywhere NEAR "high end"+
toslink.... not me thank you... not at this low price level anyway.
As for blowing tweets with stray "40hz" signals.... hasn't happened to me in 40 years of using rca's

Bob_Sanders said:
Well... toslink is preferred in high end equipment (bandwidth suffers in the cheap stuff).... and I would not describe these head units as "high end"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a friendly old school warning so peeps never learn what driver coils smell like...
Cheap stuff will likely have less design fedback safeguards than high end equipment.
Regardless of the amp's frequency response the fed back will be on the high end. 10khz would still behave like 60khz as far as the crossover is concerned.
Regardless its best to wire/ground it proper for best performance and minimal voltage drops... wire is cheap.
I have a friend that saw this happen on a high end system. All they heard was a static like noise and in less than a second the tweeters were smoking. A couple hundred down the drain. It can get real expensive fast and by the time you realize it's happening, it's already done.

Yeah, I don't think anyone sees these as high end in the audio production department. I think they have become somewhat popular because a lot of the main players in audio head units have been a little slow in the freedoms that Android provides in terms of apps, navigation, etc. They are too busy pushing their proprietary interface crap.

blackhawk said:
Just a friendly old school warning so peeps never learn what driver coils smell like...
Cheap stuff will likely have less design fedback safeguards than high end equipment.
Regardless of the amp's frequency response the fed back will be on the high end. 10khz would still behave like 60khz as far as the crossover is concerned.
Regardless its best to wire/ground it proper for best performance and minimal voltage drops... wire is cheap.
I have a friend that saw this happen on a high end system. All they heard was a static like noise and in less than a second the tweeters were smoking. A couple hundred down the drain. It can get real expensive fast and by the time you realize it's happening, it's already done.
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You can blow a simple ic chip with static so we shouldn't use them? Freak things happen. That's life.

Bob_Sanders said:
You can blow a simple ic chip with static so we shouldn't use them? Freak things happen. That's life.
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No that's ignorance and ineptitude.
I handled thousands of IC's and flat packs without damaging them by heat or ESD.
On a high end system with 7 mains blowing them out alone would be over $2G in replacement parts.
Anything worth doing is worth doing right.

objecttothis said:
Yeah, I don't think anyone sees these as high end in the audio production department. I think they have become somewhat popular because a lot of the main players in audio head units have been a little slow in the freedoms that Android provides in terms of apps, navigation, etc. They are too busy pushing their proprietary interface crap.
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Well... as far as I know the higher end units are still going RCA..... and if there is ever a change I suspect toslink will be passed over in favor of the MUCH BETTER hdmi standard anyway.

Xtrons HU no sound.

I am having an issue the sound from my head unit. It was working great and then... Poof. it stopped working.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Link above is the model head unit i bought. is there anyway to get it working again?
I did install an updated MCU per (successfully)
https://forum.xda-developers.com/and...mware-t3816042
and it did not seem to change anything.
The screen works, all apps work, volume shows it is turning up and down but nothing out of the speakers. see video link of the issue below.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BNB...w?usp=drivesdk
Also, I do not have a factory amplifier.
Thanks everyone! any help would be Great!

kaluna00 said:
I am having an issue the sound from my head unit. It was working great and then... Poof. it stopped working.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Link above is the model head unit i bought. is there anyway to get it working again?
I did install an updated MCU per (successfully)
https://forum.xda-developers.com/and...mware-t3816042
and it did not seem to change anything.
The screen works, all apps work, volume shows it is turning up and down but nothing out of the speakers. see video link of the issue below.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BNB...w?usp=drivesdk
Also, I do not have a factory amplifier.
Thanks everyone! any help would be Great!
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What steps have been taken to diagnose the issue.
Also what have the installer or reseller advised?

marchnz said:
What steps have been taken to diagnose the issue.
Also what have the installer or reseller advised?
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I reinstalled the stock radio, in the speakers work. So does not a wiring issue from the harness to the speakers. My guess is it something in the amp of the head unit itself.

kaluna00 said:
I reinstalled the stock radio, in the speakers work. So does not a wiring issue from the harness to the speakers. My guess is it something in the amp of the head unit itself.
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I also tried a factory reset with no success

kaluna00 said:
I also tried a factory reset with no success
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Any ideas? Is this a hardware issue?
Thanks in advance!

Yes definitely a hardware issue. Do you like to play it loud? There was a load of heatsink compound between the amplifier chip and the case in my HU indicating a fairly large gap between the two. Should your HU have similar poor assembly the amp could have blown even if they're supposed to have thermal protection. It's also possible that at least one solder could have broke. If you can connect an amplified speaker or headphones to the line out you could find out if audio is making it out of the mixer chip at least.

nic2k said:
Yes definitely a hardware issue. Do you like to play it loud? There was a load of heatsink compound between the amplifier chip and the case in my HU indicating a fairly large gap between the two. Should your HU have similar poor assembly the amp could have blown even if they're supposed to have thermal protection. It's also possible that at least one solder could have broke. If you can connect an amplified speaker or headphones to the line out you could find out if audio is making it out of the mixer chip at least.
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Thank you sir. I'm going to try to connect it back up and see if I can run it to a Bluetooth speaker. Until I get my new one. Better than having a hole in the dash I suppose.... also I did see the amplifier chip you're talking about it looks like it does have thermal paste and is screwed tightly to the back heat sink area . Thanks again

Hi, how did you fix the issue?