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So I just got an MTCD head unit (JY-UL-135). My first Android head unit and so far I'm massively underwhelmed and need guidance to fix a few potential issues. I try to keep my car as stock-looking as possible, so I REALLY don't want switches and knobs all over my interior to do things any other head unit would...
So, issue 1.) The power antenna on my car comes up whenever the head unit is on, even when I'm not using the radio. I almost never use the radio and I don't want my antenna up all the time. Any way to fix this without a switch or disconnecting it entirely?
2.) Bluetooth... I'm not heart broken about losing clear bluetooth audio streaming, (something my cheaper alpine unit had no problem with...) and i use a wired mic, but if this thing can't connect to basic blutooth tech, i may return it. 90% of the reason i got this thing was for a bluetooth garage remote, obd2 reader, bluetooth tire pressure sensors, and a bluetooth arduino board for another project. If this really can't do things even my phone can, it's junk. Those accessories will be delivered next week so i'll find out then but it seems like they shipped this unit with broken bluetooth and still haven't fixed it. Help?
3.) Steering wheel controls. So i understand that without xposed, android head units can only use steering wheel controls for the stock apps. And xposed doesn't work on MTCD units yet...
It's also the slowest android i've seen since my old, old. OLD droid x but that may not be that big a deal over time. So can anyone point me in the right direction for these issues? Also does anyone make a better unit than these?
I returned my mtcd unit because of wifi and bluetooth issues. The antenna issue you have is probably because you hooked up to remote blue line instead of antenna blue line.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk
supersilko said:
I returned my mtcd unit because of wifi and bluetooth issues. The antenna issue you have is probably because you hooked up to remote blue line instead of antenna blue line.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, i might have... but what did you replace the MTCD unit with, an MTCB?
EDIT: I have a crazy idea to keep my nice single din alpine unit connected to my sound system and mount it in my glove box, then connect the android unit to its aux in. Then put the steering wheel controls on a 3.5mm switch box between both units. I'd use the alpine for audio processing, bluetooth music, and hands free calls, then the android for android apps + backup camera and thumbstick music. Am I insane or would this be a good compromise? My phone would also control all the bluetooth peripherals I mentioned. I also plan on getting a dedicated second battery for the audio equipment (already have 2 amps plus a capacitor) so that might be more critical afterwards.
I'm back to stock stereo. Gonna look around for a good unit that is coming later.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk
I just got a Joying unit for a Jeep this weekend.
#1 - can't help, Jeep antenna stays up all the time
#2 - I only use Bluetooth for phone calls or playing audio, works fine in both scenarios. One odd caveat is that if I am on a phone call the audio seems only to come out of the front passenger speaker. I use the included external mic and people say I sound fine
#3 - My steering wheel controls half work. Volume and mute work all the time, same for Bluetooth phone. The controls to change the track only work on stock apps like Music, A2DP, DVD, etc, meaning it does not work on Google Play Music or Pandora. Volume steering wheel controls work fine with Pandora and Google Play Music
I have the Same Unit.. I have it on the bench as I was getting ready to installing in place of my Newsmy. I tested the remote lines tonight.
Power antenna, shows 12v once power is applied.. stays at 12v until Accessory power is removed.
Amp Remote works as it should, it I power off the radio from the knob. the 12v amp remote turns off.. Ant stays on.. ALL THE TIME. This unit is no better than my Newsmy. I have had it too long now to return it. Guess I will sell it for something simple. I am going to miss the back up camera, but I need something that fully works as I have full power mast antenna..
TallgeeseIV said:
So I just got an MTCD head unit (JY-UL-135). My first Android head unit and so far I'm massively underwhelmed and need guidance to fix a few potential issues. I try to keep my car as stock-looking as possible, so I REALLY don't want switches and knobs all over my interior to do things any other head unit would...
So, issue 1.) The power antenna on my car comes up whenever the head unit is on, even when I'm not using the radio. I almost never use the radio and I don't want my antenna up all the time. Any way to fix this without a switch or disconnecting it entirely?
2.) Bluetooth... I'm not heart broken about losing clear bluetooth audio streaming, (something my cheaper alpine unit had no problem with...) and i use a wired mic, but if this thing can't connect to basic blutooth tech, i may return it. 90% of the reason i got this thing was for a bluetooth garage remote, obd2 reader, bluetooth tire pressure sensors, and a bluetooth arduino board for another project. If this really can't do things even my phone can, it's junk. Those accessories will be delivered next week so i'll find out then but it seems like they shipped this unit with broken bluetooth and still haven't fixed it. Help?
3.) Steering wheel controls. So i understand that without xposed, android head units can only use steering wheel controls for the stock apps. And xposed doesn't work on MTCD units yet...
It's also the slowest android i've seen since my old, old. OLD droid x but that may not be that big a deal over time. So can anyone point me in the right direction for these issues? Also does anyone make a better unit than these?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
JY-UL124 here
+1 to Bluetooth issues. SuperSU completely broke bluetooth forcing me to reflash to get any functionality back.
I'm really bummed they basically lock you into joining only a phone and an ODB device and that's it. Nothing else can be paired with the unit. This is a little hokey and really devalues the whole system in my opinion.
Bluetooth has pretty poor sound quality through the unit too but it may not be bluetooth specifically causing the issue. I drive an FJ cruiser so cabin sound proofing isn't great to begin with. To compete with road noise I have to blast the stereo and the highs come up fuzzy in the process. When I'm stopped or idleing it seems that most of my issue goes away and the sound isn't half bad provided I'm playing from a sound file physically on my phone and not streaming. I need to tear into it again later to install the front camera and fog lights so when I do that I'll add in some capacitors and a torrid to try to clean up power to the unit to see if that helps.
If I'm right, the bluetooth is functional so far as taking the signal and turning it into meaningful audio. It's a digital technology so either the data gets there or it doesn't. I haven't dug too much into the spec but I assume I should be hearing whatever I hear at idle at any speed. Anyhow, once that is turned into an analog signal for delivery to the speakers (and the functional parts in between) that's where you can introduce sound degradation. So this is a function of the amp, or the fact that my hookup wires or so long, or something. I have also noticed that shortly after "bluetoothing" a short sound like a delivery notice the amp stays on for a short second or so and you can hear the interference with some digital rf. (like the sound you get when you put a cell phone too close to computer speakers) It's faint but it is there along with some static. There is no way that bare speaker wire could pick up digital rf and make it sound that loud, so that means somehow rf is leaking into the circuitry before the amp.
I'm praying I'm right and it's leaking in through power somewhere cause that's an easy fix. If it's not then it's something with the board design and there's rf leaking from the circuitry and making it into the audio signal inside the unit. That has a low probability of being fixable.
Hi all,
I have purchased a PX5 unit made for my 2008 Mazda 6. Unfortunately, it suffers from an issue with the audio quality. Whenever the audio level is above 0, a static/interference noise can be heard, and the pitch of this sound changes when driving, similar to alternator whine.
This is relatively loud, and can be heard even when moving or when sound is at low volume. If required, I could create a recording of the noise. I have updated the MCU to the latest available version to no avail.
I am relatively confident at soldering and am willing/able to take the HU apart to make modifications if anyone has any recomendations as to what I can do? I have seen various hardware mods floating around, but nothing that conclusively seems to say it will help with my issue.
There is also a large amount of static/interference when using Bluetooth for calls, but mainly to the party not connected to the car (IE the person calling in can hear the noise). Unsure if this is related, but the noise appears to be a similar pattern and pitch.
This issue is present both with the car running and off, and also was present on a bench power supply during testing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Should be an easy fix. https://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rg...car/noise_suppressors_installation_guide.html
Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the post, but unfortunately the noise is present even when connected to a bench supply, with no additional interference from the car present. There is no amplifier in this scenario, so I am fairly confident the issue comes from the HU itself. I'm not sure if there may be something I can re-route or shield inside the unit to minimise it? I don't mind if I can't eliminate it entirely, but I would. Like to minimise the issue.
Thanks!
I found that I was able to remove one aspect of the noise by turning off the colour cycling of the front LEDs. This was causing a kind of pulsating low pitch siren type noise in the audio.
It appears that having the front LEDs on anything other than full power or completely off causes the noise to varying degrees.
I still have a fair amount of cracking/static type noises, but I was able to somewhat lower the volume and improve the quality by attaching RCA cables directly to the outputs of the BD37033 chip. I'm not entirely sure what occurs after this chip in terms of sound processing, as in was difficult to trace out on the PCB. Interestingly, this modification means that the static is produced even when the unit is booting or on mute, which didn't occur before. I found this odd, as the mute functionality (And all other functionality as far as I was able to tell) is retained.
I assume the signal goes back to the MCU before going out to the factory RCA outlets and amp.
If anyone knows more, I would lose to hear it!
I have the same issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTNJVWFpBlw&feature=youtu.be
There is a static / hissing sound when the volume is on, changing volume doesn't affect it.
I might to try to upgrade the amp chip to Pioneer PA2030A from TDA7851 to see if it will fix it...
Hi.
I have the same issue with my radio in Mazda CX-9 with Bose.
Version of the radio:
PX5 Malaysk 6.0.1 MXC89L 20170901.180527 MCU VERSION MTCD_KLD_V_2.57_1 - now I have the newest version, and the problem is still the same.
I have a lot of noise when searching for something on the radio, or connecting something under USB (at the rear panel - when I'm connecting in the front - it is OK), while listening to music quietly.
What I've done so far:
1. Upgraded to the latest version of Malaysk with of course wipe all data - nothing changed.
2. Installed: anti-interference voltage filter, it works because I can not hear feedback from the car's electrical system, the alternator is not audible anymore.
3. I wrapped the cables on the back with aluminum foil plus tape insulation - nothing changed, maybe a little less noise from the radio, but still I hear all the time.
4. I connected back to the original radio - no noise - absolute silence from the speakers
The most annoying is the increasing noise of the car during driving, I have to manually adjust the volume, which does not change anyway.
Is "the cheap" radio from China, I dont know what to do.
I think that the problem is that the radio does not work well with the Bose amplifier.
I had Mazda CX-9 without Bose, and installed cheap amp with cheap radio from China - and everything worked perfect, no noises at all ! Because the amplifier was cutting out this noise with no problem.
Here the Bose amp have huge problems with that noise, I don't know why.
This noise is nothing but the noise of data transfer over the radio, which I hear all the time once more quietly and louder, as I connect, for example, a car camera to the rear USB, this noise is unbearable.
The best solution, IMHO is to remove the Bose amplifier from the car and connect the radio to another A / B class amplifier, which is much better at reducing these disturbances.
But it is a lot of work to make the whole installation work perfectly.
Me too...
I have also got this issue with my MTCD GS unit. My car has Bose also. I have tried earthing various point/things with the head unit hanging out of the dash but no change. I have also tried disabling the WiFi & Bluetooth and again no change.
I noticed the other day when I put my headlights on and the backlights on the unit came on the noise increased slightly so there might be something in the LED thing.
Andy
Exactly same thing for me too. Cheap units..
Hi.
I'll try with:
Car Stereo Audio Wire to 4 Channel RCA High to Low Audio Level Converter Adaptor
And let you know if it is OK.
I wonder, after all, the Chinese radio has a low output to the amplifier, just through the RCA plug, it can try this connection yet.
Connect to the Bose amplifier via the RCA plugs
PRODUCT FEATURES:
4 Channel Hi/Lo Audio level converter
Converts speaker level audio to line level (RCA) output
Adjustable output level to allow input to suit various amplifiers
Also eliminates signal noise
Maximum input from speaker level: 100 Watts
The noise is even related to the touch screen on my side, touching the screen changes the hiss
Removing the Bose amp and connecting a new amp with just RCA cables has improved the issue, but not eliminated it. My next step is to remove the amplifier chip entirely and see if that makes a difference (As I am only using the low level outputs I do not need the amp chip)
kaise123 said:
Removing the Bose amp and connecting a new amp with just RCA cables has improved the issue, but not eliminated it. My next step is to remove the amplifier chip entirely and see if that makes a difference (As I am only using the low level outputs I do not need the amp chip)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried connecting via normale speaker lines, using a HLA? -> I also have a factory amp and using the RCAs got me ground issues - not present with the normal lines, so I ordered a HLA.
You can lower the output to max -15db in factory settings which I use in the meantime..
Xorit said:
Have you tried connecting via normale speaker lines, using a HLA? -> I also have a factory amp and using the RCAs got me ground issues - not present with the normal lines, so I ordered a HLA.
You can lower the output to max -15db in factory settings which I use in the meantime..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for the answer.
I reduced the decibels to -9dB and noticed that it is much better, but of course the noises are only less audible.
I'm waiting for High quality audio converter to RCA cables, and let you know and let if I have eliminated the noise completely.
DD
dranet said:
Hi, thanks for the answer.
I reduced the decibels to -9dB and noticed that it is much better, but of course the noises are only less audible.
I'm waiting for High quality audio converter to RCA cables, and let you know and let if I have eliminated the noise completely.
DD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Should recieve my HLA today and will report back aswell. I have given up on the RCA jacks from the HU though.
I found that the RCA jacks were considerably better than the speaker level outputs as far as both noise and quality go. I was already using the speker level outputs when I initially noticed the issue.
kaise123 said:
I found that the RCA jacks were considerably better than the speaker level outputs as far as both noise and quality go. I was already using the speker level outputs when I initially noticed the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. I was able to tune the the "static noise" out of my system using a 3-way electronic crossover/ line driver buy turning down its gain till the noise went away. Lost a bit of volume, but just had to turn the head unit volume up a bit more to make up for it. Not much you can do with speaker level inputs except not to use them and use external amplifiers for all your speakers.
I believe the cause of the noise is an internal isolation problem, not to sure if any isolation can be added to the inside of the unit, When the wifi was on i was getting some bad feedback as well, but i was able to tune that out as well.
Guys, I was able to install the HLA today and beside I cant bring it to clip the sound has improved regarding base.
Turned the gain little up and am now satisfied with the result.
I had a hissing noise from the start even with oem radio and this is gone aswell.
All that using the speaker lines towards oem amp.
Octane70 said:
I agree. I was able to tune the the "static noise" out of my system using a 3-way electronic crossover/ line driver buy turning down its gain till the noise went away. Lost a bit of volume, but just had to turn the head unit volume up a bit more to make up for it. Not much you can do with speaker level inputs except not to use them and use external amplifiers for all your speakers.
I believe the cause of the noise is an internal isolation problem, not to sure if any isolation can be added to the inside of the unit, When the wifi was on i was getting some bad feedback as well, but i was able to tune that out as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also believe this is related to the inside of the unit having poor power delivery and bad isolation. Unfortunately the audio is all routed on the main PCB itself so it is not easy to isolate it. I did improve things considerably by soldering directly to the output from the BD37534FV controller and then using this as my RCA output. I did try some further digging but wasn't able to trace the source of the noise back any further.
Next I am going to try adding a capacitor to the power supply, removing the built in TDAXXX amp chip and seeing if I can improve the ground connection on the unit.
Hi.
Finally, I achieved what I wanted more or less, I reduced the number of noises to a minimum, using RCA converters from high to low voltage, adjustable at the expense of the output volume, but I made up for it with the Viper4android module, making listening to music comparable to sitting in a concert hall. Cool effects can be obtained with this module.
That's enough for me, of course, the noise is still present, but it's not as bothersome as before. I do not have the effect anymore that while driving from 100 km / h up, the noise increases and the volume stays constant.
Still, unfortunately, I can not connect anything to the rear USB, because the speakers start to tweet data transmission, similar to the transmission of the modem only faster, I have a USB webcam connected to the front of the radio, unfortunately it is annoying but at least there is no noise.
Of course, to reduce the number of noises in the car completely, I would have to exchange Chinese cheap radio, for which I paid some 300USD for some better, eg from Xtrons radio, they are supposedly better done, but I would have to play with 2DIN frames and it will not be anymore perfectly fit in place of the old radio.
Thanks
DD
This is what I use:
ESX High-To-Low Level Converter ISC4
or
HIFONICS HCV4
Hello everyone
I tried to use the RCA Line-Level audio outputs of my Dasaita MTCD-PX5 unit to connect an external amplifier, but discovered that there's no signal coming out of them.
Do I need to enable them somewhere on the SW?
Thanks in advance
Max
Hi Max,
I am having the same issue, with Seicane PX30. I have temporarily spliced into the speaker wires since my amp can take high voltage input, however I have static/ clipping noise with high volume.
Please let me know if you figure this out!
SoakedCardinal said:
Hi Max,
I am having the same issue, with Seicane PX30. I have temporarily spliced into the speaker wires since my amp can take high voltage input, however I have static/ clipping noise with high volume.
Please let me know if you figure this out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did the reseller suggest.
currently in communication with support, sent them this:
I have purchased 2014 2015 2016 Subaru WRX Forester 9 inch Android 10.0 Head Unit.
There is no signal coming from the following RCA jacks:
• SUBWOOFER
• FL OUT
• FR OUT
• RL OUT
• RR OUT
They all register 0 volts using 40hz 0db test tone ¾ volume from bluetooth or auxiliary input.
Connecting AUX IN L/R to FL/FR OUT makes the cars 3.5mm aux jack work but there is still no output from the RCA jacks.
My unit has the DSP Sound System. I have seated the connector properly. All other functions are working normally.
How can I make it work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
they completely misunderstood my issue first go round . . will report back
SoakedCardinal said:
currently in communication with support, sent them this:
they completely misunderstood my issue first go round . . will report back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my side, I never found a solution. Played around with several settings, but nothing...
Could this be a ROM issue?
Let me know if they ever reply back
marchnz said:
What did the reseller suggest.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
maxiauer said:
On my side, I never found a solution. Played around with several settings, but nothing...
Could this be a ROM issue?
Let me know if they ever reply back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so . . they basically tried to bribe me $50 to stop bothering them.
I think I might be able to fix the crackliing by using my amp to sum the L + R speaker outputs instead of my homade y splitter from the stock speaker cables at the headunit . .
Sorry for the resurrection, but I just fixed this issue on my PX5 for anyone else running into this problem. TL;DR is that the harness does not have the RCA for Rear speaker outputs wired in but the PX5 DOES have the pins for it. The solution is to wire them into the harness.
SOLVED: Rear RCA Outputs for MTCE PX5
Edit: TL;DR The wiring harness does not have Rear RCA outputs (only front and subwoofer). I had to splice in the RCA for the rear because there are pins outputting signal. (See solution below for details) I'm running Hal9K Mod with Android 10...
forum.xda-developers.com
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
kukoladam said:
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Send it back under warranty.
marchnz said:
Send it back under warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is, that is another week of waiting. I am in connection with the supplier, he asks the manufacturer about the problem. The way is good, since when I plug Front left to the Front left of the amplifier, I head very very weak sound from the front left speakers. But the outcoming signal is unmeasurable. In addition, in the Factory menu there is an option "Power Amplifier Settings", which is gray. Can't be reached..
Maybe somehow it is disabled in the menu, but I could not find in 3 hrs where.
kukoladam said:
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As @marchnz .... send it back under warranty.
Every head unit I have ever had, there is no turn-on for the RCA's because they are already on. That includes my old px5 and new px6.... and I have been using RCA outs only for probably the last 40 years
What you could do is check the pins directly on the head unit plug to see if there is anything there. When you probe it with the multimeter try using a ground inside the machine instead of the ground on the plug.
Bob_Sanders said:
As @marchnz .... send it back under warranty.
Every head unit I have ever had, there is no turn-on for the RCA's because they are already on. That includes my old px5 and new px6.... and I have been using RCA outs only for probably the last 40 years
What you could do is check the pins directly on the head unit plug to see if there is anything there. When you probe it with the multimeter try using a ground inside the machine instead of the ground on the plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Optical toslink between audio equipment is highly preferred.
Even with a common grounding point for -all- connected equipment the chance of an unsnubbed high frequency feedback loop is real.
If so it will likely blow all your twitters and possibly the power amp in seconds*.
If the amp's big enough you'll see smoke and fire
At the very least use a common grounding point for all pieces of equipment. Use heavy gauge wire and keep the wire length as short as possible.
*A high frequency typically 40hz or higher feedback loop when fed into and/or through a power amp will result in a huge wattage output at that frequency. It will cause the speaker bypass to shunt all of it through your tweeters and effectively short out the power amp
You probably know much more about this than I do, but a few things don't make sense to me. You said high frequency feedback loop, but then referenced 40hz. Did you mean 40khz? 40hz is a pretty low frequency and I would think would be cut out by both integrated HPFs and amp level HPFs. I am very familiar with toslink as I use them between my PC and home audio amplifier, but I've never heard of them used between a head unit and amp. Every head unit and amp I've ever owned have used RCA outputs. I'm not saying the risk isn't there but why would both head unit and amp manufacturers not use them if RCA is so dangerous? It really is an honest question, so please don't take offense.
blackhawk said:
Optical toslink between audio equipment is highly preferred.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... toslink is preferred in high end equipment (bandwidth suffers in the cheap stuff).... and I would not describe these head units as "high end"
blackhawk said:
Even with a common grounding point for -all- connected equipment the chance of an unsnubbed high frequency feedback loop is real.
If so it will likely blow all your twitters and possibly the power amp in seconds*.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you misunderstand. I'm asking OP to look for a common ground FOR TESTING with his multimeter. If all the rca's are not working then there is a chance that something common (like the ground on the rca jacks) is broken.
objecttothis said:
You probably know much more about this than I do, but a few things don't make sense to me. You said high frequency feedback loop, but then referenced 40hz. Did you mean 40khz? 40hz is a pretty low frequency and I would think would be cut out by both integrated HPFs and amp level HPFs. I am very familiar with toslink as I use them between my PC and home audio amplifier, but I've never heard of them used between a head unit and amp. Every head unit and amp I've ever owned have used RCA outputs. I'm not saying the risk isn't there but why would both head unit and amp manufacturers not use them if RCA is so dangerous? It really is an honest question, so please don't take offense.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RCA's are mostly used on automotive head units. They have been around for decades. toslink is the new kid on the block and there are a lot of problems with it... frequency issues, sample matching issues, select few apps to use toslink with... yadda yadda. Personally speaking, I wouldn't use toslink instead of rca in a million years. Now it does have the advantage of less noise pickup on long runs of cable, but manucacturers like pioneer, alpine, kenwood... etc have combatted the noise issues with high voltage output from the rca's (pioneers are now 4 volts peak to peak on the rca's while android is still something like 1.4 volt PtoP). Then on the other hand with toslink you need HIGH QUALITY dac's to avoid sample and frequncy issues... and these android head units are NOT what I would describe as anywhere NEAR "high end"+
toslink.... not me thank you... not at this low price level anyway.
As for blowing tweets with stray "40hz" signals.... hasn't happened to me in 40 years of using rca's
Bob_Sanders said:
Well... toslink is preferred in high end equipment (bandwidth suffers in the cheap stuff).... and I would not describe these head units as "high end"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a friendly old school warning so peeps never learn what driver coils smell like...
Cheap stuff will likely have less design fedback safeguards than high end equipment.
Regardless of the amp's frequency response the fed back will be on the high end. 10khz would still behave like 60khz as far as the crossover is concerned.
Regardless its best to wire/ground it proper for best performance and minimal voltage drops... wire is cheap.
I have a friend that saw this happen on a high end system. All they heard was a static like noise and in less than a second the tweeters were smoking. A couple hundred down the drain. It can get real expensive fast and by the time you realize it's happening, it's already done.
Yeah, I don't think anyone sees these as high end in the audio production department. I think they have become somewhat popular because a lot of the main players in audio head units have been a little slow in the freedoms that Android provides in terms of apps, navigation, etc. They are too busy pushing their proprietary interface crap.
blackhawk said:
Just a friendly old school warning so peeps never learn what driver coils smell like...
Cheap stuff will likely have less design fedback safeguards than high end equipment.
Regardless of the amp's frequency response the fed back will be on the high end. 10khz would still behave like 60khz as far as the crossover is concerned.
Regardless its best to wire/ground it proper for best performance and minimal voltage drops... wire is cheap.
I have a friend that saw this happen on a high end system. All they heard was a static like noise and in less than a second the tweeters were smoking. A couple hundred down the drain. It can get real expensive fast and by the time you realize it's happening, it's already done.
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You can blow a simple ic chip with static so we shouldn't use them? Freak things happen. That's life.
Bob_Sanders said:
You can blow a simple ic chip with static so we shouldn't use them? Freak things happen. That's life.
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No that's ignorance and ineptitude.
I handled thousands of IC's and flat packs without damaging them by heat or ESD.
On a high end system with 7 mains blowing them out alone would be over $2G in replacement parts.
Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
objecttothis said:
Yeah, I don't think anyone sees these as high end in the audio production department. I think they have become somewhat popular because a lot of the main players in audio head units have been a little slow in the freedoms that Android provides in terms of apps, navigation, etc. They are too busy pushing their proprietary interface crap.
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Well... as far as I know the higher end units are still going RCA..... and if there is ever a change I suspect toslink will be passed over in favor of the MUCH BETTER hdmi standard anyway.
Hi everyone,
I bought a car and in this car there is an android auto unit.
This unit is a PX5 MTCE_CZ with Android 8.
When a call someone in bluetooth, my correspondent heard a hiss at each acceleration.
So I décide to update the unit.
Firstly, I upgrade the MCU to 2.88 to 3.41.
Secondly, I would like to pass on Android 10. For that I use SDDiskTool and CHS7_PX5_10.0_IMG(20200603).zip file.
The update seems to be ok.
But the hiss are still here and now I can't put the wifi on.
I choose the CHS7 randomly, why there is CHS, GS, HA, etc?? What is the difference between this files?
Thanks
I can't help you with the software question, but the noise in the call is probably a hardware problem. The unit seems to be picking up the electrical noise from the car (spark plug, injectors etc). It can happen thru the air (electromagnetic) of thru the wires (ground loop etc).
Noise source is not easy to find so you will have to tinker on it.
A good way to isolate the problem is powering the unit using a small 12v battery without any electrical contact with the car, but having the unit in the usual place. If you can plug a external independent speaker is even better.
If the noise goes away when you power if from a full independent battery, the noise problem can be on the main 12v or some ground loop.
Noise from power source sometimes can be solved using a big capacitor in parallel to the 12v.
Ground loop is not so obvious to figure out (search for ground loop on google).
If it still picking up noise using an external battery the problem is not in the power or ground loops, so you will need to check the overall shielding of the unit/microphone. You can start changing the cable routing and go from there...
Hi,
thanks for your answers.
I will check with your method and I give you my feedback.
Hi,
First time posting. I'm looking for ideas or possible fixes to this issue.
Recently installed a EKIY T7 into 2010 Outback. Headunit turns on and works fine in ACC, but when I start the engine, the screen goes black, turns off. I thought maybe it was rebooting from loss of power when engine starts, but it does not turn back on when driving.
Only thing I'd say I did that would be off, way cut the blue wire that runs from the power harness, on radio side, to the antenna. The 2010 outback antenna adapter with blue wire did not fit, so ended up using one without it.
I think this is just the power antenna wire, but am unsure. was thinking one solution might be installing a remote on switch.
Attached photos, is screen on when in ACC. Type of plugs, and pin diagram.
I had this problem with Nissan X-trail, after it had been in for repair. Turned out a fuse had been removed and not replaced, by accident or on purpose I have no idea. Might be worth checking ALL your fuses. There are two boxes in the cab of my car.
slingshotrobot said:
Hi,
First time posting. I'm looking for ideas or possible fixes to this issue.
Recently installed a EKIY T7 into 2010 Outback. Headunit turns on and works fine in ACC, but when I start the engine, the screen goes black, turns off. I thought maybe it was rebooting from loss of power when engine starts, but it does not turn back on when driving.
Only thing I'd say I did that would be off, way cut the blue wire that runs from the power harness, on radio side, to the antenna. The 2010 outback antenna adapter with blue wire did not fit, so ended up using one without it.
I think this is just the power antenna wire, but am unsure. was thinking one solution might be installing a remote on switch.
Attached photos, is screen on when in ACC. Type of plugs, and pin diagram.
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It sounds like a ACC red cable problem. ACC controls if the unit should sleep or not. Measure the red cable when your engine runs, should have 12 -14 volt something. I.e. red cable in your HU harness.
Thank you. I'll try that. Was thinking maybe red and yellow wire are backwards. Will report back on progress.
slingshotrobot said:
Thank you. I'll try that. Was thinking maybe red and yellow wire are backwards. Will report back on progress.
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In that case the screen should not be black when the car is running. Yellow is B+, always on, while red is sleep (No 12-14 volt) or no sleep=active(12-14 volt).
After trying a few other things, I was able to keep it turned on with the alternator unplugged. So maybe a diode in the alternator is going out. Will keep updates on whether a new alternator fixed it
Finally got it figured out with the help of their tech support. Solution was to cut the steering wheel learning wires (a6 and a7). Not sure why but this fixed it hope that helps others if they encounter same problem.
slingshotrobot said:
Finally got it figured out with the help of their tech support. Solution was to cut the steering wheel learning wires (a6 and a7). Not sure why but this fixed it hope that helps others if they encounter same problem.
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What did you do with the SWC cables Key1 and Key2 for the problem to appear? I mean before you solved the problem. Normally if you have canbusbox they are not used at all and left open. Did you ground them or what?
I didn't have a canbus connected at all. Was told to just snip pink wire, A6 and A7 going to the head unit. fairly certain it was just the A6 wire that did it. I have no idea why that worked at all, but it did.