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[HARDWARE PROBLEM] Headphone jack static/hiss noise?

Hey guys,
I bought a One X recently, and I am noticing some static/hiss/noise coming from the headphones.
I tried connecting my One X to bigger speakers, and the noise is more noticeable this way. This is an odd issue, because none of my other phones behave this way.
The funny thing is, if you play music or notification noises play when the phone is connected to speakers, the noise goes away. But after one second, when the DAC shuts off, the noise comes back again.
My friend's One X has this problem as well, so I don't think I just have a lemon here.
Other forums seem to be talking about this issue as well
http://www.htconeforum.com/forum/htc-one-x-help/300-htc-one-x-sound-issues-headphones.html
http://www.htconeforum.com/forum/htc-one-x-help/327-sound-issue.html
I found one review that mentions this issue. They talk about it in the Beats Audio section, and there's a video with the noise.
http://www.tekgadg.com/home/2012/6/15/htc-one-x-rogers-review.html
I remember using a really cheap chinese knockoff mp3 player about 8 years ago, and the One X seems to have the same problem as that mp3 player. Could it be that the One X has a cheap DAC in it that causes this noise?
Anyone else experience this problem?

The first link is about the international version, the lte one x is technically the One XL, and this is the first time hearing about this. Mine doesn't have a problem and I listen to music all the time.
Just and idea possibly cheap headphones?
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

My music is crystal clear, probably one of the best quality sound outputs I've heard from a phone actually.

Mine has this problem, but I only notice when I hook it up to my car speakers (with an aux cable) and not with headphones (Bose). It's a lot more pronounced when the phone is plugged into usb as well. Once sound plays though, the hissing stops completely. It's only when there is no output that the hiss is present.
Edit: Could it possibly be interference from the cellular radio? Maybe once the DAC kicks in it filters out the interference?
Edit 2: Just read the 3rd link and yeah, my speculation seems to have some validity
"Adding insult to injury, HTC One X features a badly shielded headset jack that makes noise whenever it is hooked up to sensitive speakers. We compared it to high-end and low-end phones, and none of them made the annoying static noise that the One X makes. This isn't a serious problem for people who only listen to music through headphones, but you may want to stay away from the One X if you are thinking about playing music through it with big speakers."

I had the same problem. If you are rooted, disable beats audio notify with titanium backup. I did this and use power amp with custom eq settings and do not notice any hiss whatsoever.
Sent from my HTC One XL using XDA

Same problem here. WAY worse when plugged in and in my car. On regular headphones no problem. In my car it's huge. To me it reeked of a poor ground somewhere, to the point that I thought my unit was defective. If it were a shielding problem I would think it would be an issue all of the time, not just when the thing is "inactive" (ie not driving the jack). I've "disabled" beats to the extent that I can without rooting, and it had no noticeable difference.
Glad to hear it's not just me.

I notice the problem when I use both the microUSB charger and headphone jacket. Disconnect the charger cable usually solves my problem. Now, I switched to use BT car adapter instead of aux cable and I can use car charger without noise.

The problem is called BEATS AUDIO!
scroll to the bottom
http://www.gsmarena.com/htc_one_x-review-747p5.php

designgears said:
The problem is called BEATS AUDIO!
scroll to the bottom
http://www.gsmarena.com/htc_one_x-review-747p5.php
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I still get the hiss despite disabling Beats (as in just turning it off in the notification shade), although it is definitely not as bad as having Beats turned on. I'll freeze HTCBeatsNotify and see if it helps on the way to work tomorrow morning.

stnguyen09 said:
I still get the hiss despite disabling Beats (as in just turning it off in the notification shade), although it is definitely not as bad as having Beats turned on. I'll freeze HTCBeatsNotify and see if it helps on the way to work tomorrow morning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly beats audio is integrated beyond what you can turn off in settings.

so, the only solution is to root the phone and completely kill Beats Audio?
I guess it's not a hardware problem then... Man, that sucks. Has this issue been brought to light by some big sites yet? We need to do something so HTC learns from this mistake.

By the way, here's the update I promised...
Like I said before, I disabled beats from the notification pulldown but the hiss was still there, although slightly less annoying. I froze HTCBeatsNotify (or whatever the actual name is) using TiBu so Beats doesn't even show up when I plug it in. Unfortunately, the hiss is still there at the same level it was at when I just disabled Beats from the notification pulldown.
Is Beats actually integrated into the hardware? Is the "poorly shielded headphone jack" mentioned in one of the OP's links still a valid assumption? Can someone running CM9/AOKP chime in on whether they get the hiss?
Edit: Before I head home today I'll go into Airplane mode to try to rule out the headset jack shielding.

Annnnd of course my experiment failed...hiss is still there

If the headphone jack is indeed poorly shielded, couldn't it pick up interference from anything? Not just the internal radios?
This means we'll have to go into some radio-free environment in order to determine whether it's the headphone jack or Beats Audio that causes this annoying hiss.
In either case, I'm disappointed in HTC.

ai4281 said:
If the headphone jack is indeed poorly shielded, couldn't it pick up interference from anything? Not just the internal radios?
This means we'll have to go into some radio-free environment in order to determine whether it's the headphone jack or Beats Audio that causes this annoying hiss.
In either case, I'm disappointed in HTC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I mean, the internal radio would be the strongest signal in the immediate area that would cause interference. Just look at old, poorly shielded computer speakers, they had issues only when a phone would go off within maybe a yard of them. I was in a parking garage at the time I tested and I'm not sure if there was anything else around that would be powerful enough to cause the interference.
Also something I noticed which may lend credence to the DAC being the source of the issue...Just plugging my phone into usb and having the headphone jack attached does not produce as much interference as when I'm streaming from Google Music and it gets caught buffering. As in, when the DAC would still be active but no audio is output. The hiss during that situation is quite a bit worse than just having the phone sit there not doing anything.

Since Beats is just a glorified equalizer, it could be that Beats just happens to be boosting the sound frequencies of the hiss and making it sound louder, and not the actual source of the hiss itself. So maybe it is a hardware issue.

Again, I can't imagine ti being "poor shielding" because that would not immediately go away once you started playing music. Think about typical cell phone interference from a radio. You're playing music, and you hear that "bvvvvrerrerrr" sound.
In the case of the HTC, as soon as you start playing music, the hum goes away IMMEDIATELY and completely as far as I can tell. If shielding were the problem it wouldn't it still be distorted regardless of whether the jack was actively playing anything or not?
Seems more to me that the DAC is leaving some signals floating, leaving them susceptible to noise, when it's not active, when it should be pulling them to a known state (probably ground)

Not from DAC either. If you plug in a headphone, you will not hear these noises. It seems only occur when you plug into AUX import of car or amps.
So, it is a hardware design problem that causes dirty interference escaped into audio output. When you plug in a normal headphone, it has very low impendence and the noise will not get amplifed at all. If you plug it into an AUX import, it will have a much higher impendence and hence the noise get carrier over and amplified.

foxbat121 said:
Not from DAC either. If you plug in a headphone, you will not hear these noises. It seems only occur when you plug into AUX import of car or amps.
So, it is a hardware design problem that causes dirty interference escaped into audio output. When you plug in a normal headphone, it has very low impendence and the noise will not get amplifed at all. If you plug it into an AUX import, it will have a much higher impendence and hence the noise get carrier over and amplified.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your explanation makes perfect sense. This seems to be the issue.

foxbat121 said:
Not from DAC either. If you plug in a headphone, you will not hear these noises. It seems only occur when you plug into AUX import of car or amps.
So, it is a hardware design problem that causes dirty interference escaped into audio output. When you plug in a normal headphone, it has very low impendence and the noise will not get amplifed at all. If you plug it into an AUX import, it will have a much higher impendence and hence the noise get carrier over and amplified.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ai4281 said:
Your explanation makes perfect sense. This seems to be the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think we have a winner!

[Q] Slight static hiss/noise on 3.5mm jack

On my tablet I always get a slight static hiss/background noise during and a couple seconds after the tablet plays any sound.
This seems very odd to me since it's not affected by how loud the volume is (as long as sound is on, not at 0).
I don't have this on any other outputs (HDMI/BT/USB OTG/build-in speakers, all fine)
Every headset/speaker I use outputs this from cheapo Samsung in-ears to a quite expensive 2.1 setup.
I'm used to having a bit of noise at the highest volume levels (which for ex. my Note 3 has) and consider this normal.
But this is very annoying, especially when navigating the UI as I always have to endure this hiss for a couple of seconds.
I'm not sure if it's a hard or software issue, since normally static hiss always occured to me on lower-end devices with higher volume, and if it were a software issue should it not also do this on all outputs (including digital).
I haven't come across anyone with a similar issue.

Yep, this happens for me as well on my LTE version. It also happened on the Nexus 7 2013. The noise is from interference from the other board components in close proximity to the audio chip.

jaredmorgs said:
Yep, this happens for me as well on my LTE version. It also happened on the Nexus 7 2013. The noise is from interference from the other board components in close proximity to the audio chip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I also have the LTE version.
Bleh, that's no fun and really annoying. I have never had anything from a reputable brand do this.

The next test would be to see if it does it through USB Audio or Bluetooth Audio. I have a Microsoft LifeChat 3000 headset that I have successfully connected to the tablet, which doesn't seem to have the hiss. It could be due to the impedance of the speakers of this headphone compared with my Shure SE425 IEMs that I notice it more. I also use Tri-flange tips on my IEMs which makes everything more pronounced.

jaredmorgs said:
The next test would be to see if it does it through USB Audio or Bluetooth Audio. I have a Microsoft LifeChat 3000 headset that I have successfully connected to the tablet, which doesn't seem to have the hiss. It could be due to the impedance of the speakers of this headphone compared with my Shure SE425 IEMs that I notice it more. I also use Tri-flange tips on my IEMs which makes everything more pronounced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did, My USB headset doesn't have this issue (plugged into the shield with a USB OTG cable), my 3.5 mm headphones and cheapo IEMs don't have the issue when plugged into a Sony SBH50 connected to the Shield (via Bluetooth), but they do have the issue when directly plugged into the Shield. Meh.

So that proves that it is the shielding on the 3.5mm jack.
Unfortunately, that's case closed. If it's any consolation, you get used to it after a while.

An update:
I tested with my PC's line-in input, and when I put it in any 24bit mode sound is crystal clear 24/7, I don't get any issues.
mic-in sounds garbage but that's to be expected (I can hear the tablet's internals cause distortion all the time.), it also doesn't always get detected by the tablet.
Is this of the lower impedance that the static noise gets filtered out? I'm not an audio expert.

[Solved] How to pass audio to premium (Bose) amp from PX5 MTCD HU (2013 Mazda CX-7/9)

Hello,
I am having trouble passing meaningful audio to a Bose factory amp from my PX5 MTCD (said amp comes with my 2013 Mazda CX-9 but I believe that the same hardware can be found in other contemporary Mazda vehicles). Instead of audio I only get a 2Hz very loud beep. The best guess (by me and the PAC guys) as to what happens is that the signal level is too high for the Bose preamp (which is known to have a low impedance) so that the amp is overloaded. I am feeding said amp directly from the preamp outputs of the unit. I believe (but I am not sure) that the way the unit is interfaced with the CAN bus is immaterial to the issue. Indeed, I connected the unit using the included CAN bus adapter as well as a PAC RP4-MZ11 adapter with the same result.
So my question is, is there a way to control the gain of the preamp outputs of such a unit? Do you guys have any other advice on what to try to fix this issue? Wild guesses are welcome (I am willing to experiment).
Thoughts are much appreciated. Many thanks!

In my Audi B7, which also uses a Bose amp like this, I used 2:1 step-down audio transformers along with a resistor divider network on the SPK out from the android headunit. I found the line out level to be too low to drive the transformers, and couldn't connect line out directly to amp due to non-isolated ground.

JAmBer99 said:
In my Audi B7, which also uses a Bose amp like this, I used 2:1 step-down audio transformers along with a resistor divider network on the SPK out from the android headunit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great tip, thank you very much. I will try it as soon as I can. Do you happen to remember the overall resistance and the ratio for the divider?
JAmBer99 said:
couldn't connect line out directly to amp due to non-isolated ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So that's what causes the trouble. Good to know, thank you again. Much appreciated.

For the record, it turned out that my issue was caused by the CAN bus adapter rather than audio source. Strangely enough, the adapter requires that the car be turned on (and that's a full on, not just ACC) for the first time. If this is not the case then max volume beeps are all the sound that is produced by the amp. As soon as the car is turned on once the amp/head unit combination will work thereafter on ACC as well as on ON.
This appears to be a "feature" of the vehicle rather than the adapter, as the same problem manifested itself with two totally different adapters (PAC RP4-MZ11 as well as the adapter that came with the head unit).
With this proviso the preamp outputs of the head unit drive the amp well, so that there was no need for a line converter in my installation. The preamp level is pretty high (so volume beyond 25% or so is unusable) but this can easily be fixed by playing with the gain on the head unit.

Options for external warning chime speaker?

So I finally connected my new GM-specific Eonon-branded MTCE_WWW (GA9180A - made by Klyde, I believe) Android 8 unit in-car (was testing "on the bench") and oh my god - that little external warning chime speaker is absolutely horrible! I don't understand how they can spend so much time getting these things to work in car and then do such a piss-poor job on the little speaker that produces warning chimes and turn-signal sounds! Typically, these sounds come out of the cars speakers (with stock or higher-quality plug-and-play units).
Surely, there is some way to improve upon this?? Does anyone know if this little speaker is amplified or of it's just a simple speaker in a plastic case? I don't want to tear it apart just in case I decide to return the unit (I really don't want to, but this little speaker may be a deal-breaker). Not only does it sound absolutley horrible, but I'm also getting some sort of interference noice on it - even when the car isn't running. I think the interference noise is coming from the FM antenna adapter, the wifi antenna or CANBUS box - they are all in the same general area, so it's hard to tell which one is causing it.
Anyone have any info on these little speakers? I would love to use a higher-quality speaker if that would help (maybe even with a volume dial to control the volume of the chimes?). Only 2 wires going to the speaker, so I'm assuming it's just a regular un-amplified speaker. Will see if I can hook up another speaker to see what happens.
I did a few searches and didn't find much, but will keep searching - just figured I'd ask at the same time.
Thanks in advance.

Thanks for sharing.
Yes, the sound from chime speaker is horrible especially for turn-signal. But I don't think it is speaker fault and indeed it is caused by CanBox code. I used some good quality speaker to test chime sound and I got the same horrible sound.
And for noise, in my case it is from WIFI activity I believe and I will live with it because it is hard to notice when music is on.

Had the same experience with a unit I just installed in my girlfriend's mini cooper which is a shame because mini/bmw has some pretty cool and iconic door chimes, notifications, and blinker noises.
I ordered an Axcess branded wire harness adapter box that I will wire up just the can-bus and power leads to to retain the sounds from its little speaker but I had another idea. The dash has plenty of available space inside, I may install the factory head unit single-din component to the can-bus wires and power and then a decent PA loudspeaker under the dash to the unit's driver door output to make up for the lack of those tones.

I installed my unit but I did not install this speaker at first
I think I do not need it

Quick fix
The speaker seemed distorted in my (px6, android, dasaita, Chevy Cruze 2011). After some testing I landed on a 8ohm resistor on the positive speaker cable between the speaker and the connector to the head-unit. The resistor wil consume the power and transfer it into head. And the speaker sounds way better now. For obvious reasons the volume is also lower now. And so far I like it.

Has anyone figured how how to change the door chime / blinker signal/ warning sounds ?

Enabling RCA Audio outputs?

Hello everyone
I tried to use the RCA Line-Level audio outputs of my Dasaita MTCD-PX5 unit to connect an external amplifier, but discovered that there's no signal coming out of them.
Do I need to enable them somewhere on the SW?
Thanks in advance
Max

Hi Max,
I am having the same issue, with Seicane PX30. I have temporarily spliced into the speaker wires since my amp can take high voltage input, however I have static/ clipping noise with high volume.
Please let me know if you figure this out!

SoakedCardinal said:
Hi Max,
I am having the same issue, with Seicane PX30. I have temporarily spliced into the speaker wires since my amp can take high voltage input, however I have static/ clipping noise with high volume.
Please let me know if you figure this out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did the reseller suggest.

currently in communication with support, sent them this:
I have purchased 2014 2015 2016 Subaru WRX Forester 9 inch Android 10.0 Head Unit.
There is no signal coming from the following RCA jacks:
• SUBWOOFER
• FL OUT
• FR OUT
• RL OUT
• RR OUT
They all register 0 volts using 40hz 0db test tone ¾ volume from bluetooth or auxiliary input.
Connecting AUX IN L/R to FL/FR OUT makes the cars 3.5mm aux jack work but there is still no output from the RCA jacks.
My unit has the DSP Sound System. I have seated the connector properly. All other functions are working normally.
How can I make it work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
they completely misunderstood my issue first go round . . will report back

SoakedCardinal said:
currently in communication with support, sent them this:
they completely misunderstood my issue first go round . . will report back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my side, I never found a solution. Played around with several settings, but nothing...
Could this be a ROM issue?
Let me know if they ever reply back

marchnz said:
What did the reseller suggest.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
maxiauer said:
On my side, I never found a solution. Played around with several settings, but nothing...
Could this be a ROM issue?
Let me know if they ever reply back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so . . they basically tried to bribe me $50 to stop bothering them.
I think I might be able to fix the crackliing by using my amp to sum the L + R speaker outputs instead of my homade y splitter from the stock speaker cables at the headunit . .

Sorry for the resurrection, but I just fixed this issue on my PX5 for anyone else running into this problem. TL;DR is that the harness does not have the RCA for Rear speaker outputs wired in but the PX5 DOES have the pins for it. The solution is to wire them into the harness.
SOLVED: Rear RCA Outputs for MTCE PX5
Edit: TL;DR The wiring harness does not have Rear RCA outputs (only front and subwoofer). I had to splice in the RCA for the rear because there are pins outputting signal. (See solution below for details) I'm running Hal9K Mod with Android 10...
forum.xda-developers.com

Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?

kukoladam said:
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Send it back under warranty.

marchnz said:
Send it back under warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is, that is another week of waiting. I am in connection with the supplier, he asks the manufacturer about the problem. The way is good, since when I plug Front left to the Front left of the amplifier, I head very very weak sound from the front left speakers. But the outcoming signal is unmeasurable. In addition, in the Factory menu there is an option "Power Amplifier Settings", which is gray. Can't be reached..
Maybe somehow it is disabled in the menu, but I could not find in 3 hrs where.

kukoladam said:
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As @marchnz .... send it back under warranty.
Every head unit I have ever had, there is no turn-on for the RCA's because they are already on. That includes my old px5 and new px6.... and I have been using RCA outs only for probably the last 40 years
What you could do is check the pins directly on the head unit plug to see if there is anything there. When you probe it with the multimeter try using a ground inside the machine instead of the ground on the plug.

Bob_Sanders said:
As @marchnz .... send it back under warranty.
Every head unit I have ever had, there is no turn-on for the RCA's because they are already on. That includes my old px5 and new px6.... and I have been using RCA outs only for probably the last 40 years
What you could do is check the pins directly on the head unit plug to see if there is anything there. When you probe it with the multimeter try using a ground inside the machine instead of the ground on the plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Optical toslink between audio equipment is highly preferred.
Even with a common grounding point for -all- connected equipment the chance of an unsnubbed high frequency feedback loop is real.
If so it will likely blow all your twitters and possibly the power amp in seconds*.
If the amp's big enough you'll see smoke and fire
At the very least use a common grounding point for all pieces of equipment. Use heavy gauge wire and keep the wire length as short as possible.
*A high frequency typically 40hz or higher feedback loop when fed into and/or through a power amp will result in a huge wattage output at that frequency. It will cause the speaker bypass to shunt all of it through your tweeters and effectively short out the power amp

You probably know much more about this than I do, but a few things don't make sense to me. You said high frequency feedback loop, but then referenced 40hz. Did you mean 40khz? 40hz is a pretty low frequency and I would think would be cut out by both integrated HPFs and amp level HPFs. I am very familiar with toslink as I use them between my PC and home audio amplifier, but I've never heard of them used between a head unit and amp. Every head unit and amp I've ever owned have used RCA outputs. I'm not saying the risk isn't there but why would both head unit and amp manufacturers not use them if RCA is so dangerous? It really is an honest question, so please don't take offense.

blackhawk said:
Optical toslink between audio equipment is highly preferred.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... toslink is preferred in high end equipment (bandwidth suffers in the cheap stuff).... and I would not describe these head units as "high end"
blackhawk said:
Even with a common grounding point for -all- connected equipment the chance of an unsnubbed high frequency feedback loop is real.
If so it will likely blow all your twitters and possibly the power amp in seconds*.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you misunderstand. I'm asking OP to look for a common ground FOR TESTING with his multimeter. If all the rca's are not working then there is a chance that something common (like the ground on the rca jacks) is broken.

objecttothis said:
You probably know much more about this than I do, but a few things don't make sense to me. You said high frequency feedback loop, but then referenced 40hz. Did you mean 40khz? 40hz is a pretty low frequency and I would think would be cut out by both integrated HPFs and amp level HPFs. I am very familiar with toslink as I use them between my PC and home audio amplifier, but I've never heard of them used between a head unit and amp. Every head unit and amp I've ever owned have used RCA outputs. I'm not saying the risk isn't there but why would both head unit and amp manufacturers not use them if RCA is so dangerous? It really is an honest question, so please don't take offense.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RCA's are mostly used on automotive head units. They have been around for decades. toslink is the new kid on the block and there are a lot of problems with it... frequency issues, sample matching issues, select few apps to use toslink with... yadda yadda. Personally speaking, I wouldn't use toslink instead of rca in a million years. Now it does have the advantage of less noise pickup on long runs of cable, but manucacturers like pioneer, alpine, kenwood... etc have combatted the noise issues with high voltage output from the rca's (pioneers are now 4 volts peak to peak on the rca's while android is still something like 1.4 volt PtoP). Then on the other hand with toslink you need HIGH QUALITY dac's to avoid sample and frequncy issues... and these android head units are NOT what I would describe as anywhere NEAR "high end"+
toslink.... not me thank you... not at this low price level anyway.
As for blowing tweets with stray "40hz" signals.... hasn't happened to me in 40 years of using rca's

Bob_Sanders said:
Well... toslink is preferred in high end equipment (bandwidth suffers in the cheap stuff).... and I would not describe these head units as "high end"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a friendly old school warning so peeps never learn what driver coils smell like...
Cheap stuff will likely have less design fedback safeguards than high end equipment.
Regardless of the amp's frequency response the fed back will be on the high end. 10khz would still behave like 60khz as far as the crossover is concerned.
Regardless its best to wire/ground it proper for best performance and minimal voltage drops... wire is cheap.
I have a friend that saw this happen on a high end system. All they heard was a static like noise and in less than a second the tweeters were smoking. A couple hundred down the drain. It can get real expensive fast and by the time you realize it's happening, it's already done.

Yeah, I don't think anyone sees these as high end in the audio production department. I think they have become somewhat popular because a lot of the main players in audio head units have been a little slow in the freedoms that Android provides in terms of apps, navigation, etc. They are too busy pushing their proprietary interface crap.

blackhawk said:
Just a friendly old school warning so peeps never learn what driver coils smell like...
Cheap stuff will likely have less design fedback safeguards than high end equipment.
Regardless of the amp's frequency response the fed back will be on the high end. 10khz would still behave like 60khz as far as the crossover is concerned.
Regardless its best to wire/ground it proper for best performance and minimal voltage drops... wire is cheap.
I have a friend that saw this happen on a high end system. All they heard was a static like noise and in less than a second the tweeters were smoking. A couple hundred down the drain. It can get real expensive fast and by the time you realize it's happening, it's already done.
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You can blow a simple ic chip with static so we shouldn't use them? Freak things happen. That's life.

Bob_Sanders said:
You can blow a simple ic chip with static so we shouldn't use them? Freak things happen. That's life.
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No that's ignorance and ineptitude.
I handled thousands of IC's and flat packs without damaging them by heat or ESD.
On a high end system with 7 mains blowing them out alone would be over $2G in replacement parts.
Anything worth doing is worth doing right.

objecttothis said:
Yeah, I don't think anyone sees these as high end in the audio production department. I think they have become somewhat popular because a lot of the main players in audio head units have been a little slow in the freedoms that Android provides in terms of apps, navigation, etc. They are too busy pushing their proprietary interface crap.
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Well... as far as I know the higher end units are still going RCA..... and if there is ever a change I suspect toslink will be passed over in favor of the MUCH BETTER hdmi standard anyway.