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Ok here's the story.
My Prophet is, well, an elderly.
I think it's like 5 year old.
I already had to replace touchscreen, battery and the rear speaker.
Anyway my problem now is that I don't have any sound.
Only when I recieve a call or text message I get a ringtone or notification.
Windows media player does not give sound, screen taps etc neither.
Only ringtones give sounds, through rear speaker.
Also when I get a call the earphone speakers doesn't work, the microphone does.
My earphone jack works perfectly so it isn't the audio chip that's broke.
So what i was thinking is that my phone thinks it's using an headset and redirects al sounds to my earphone jack. Only using the rear speaker for ringtones. (so maybe someone could confirm that the ringtone still rings when using an headset)
So does anybody know what the problem is or just help me on the way?
Regard, Paul
I doubt it's 5 years old! Maybe 2?...
Anyway, this is a common issue, the headphone jack is not 'releasing' the sound back to the speaker due to short / stuck connector switch. Blow down it or wiggle the plug.
M.S
Mysterious Stranger said:
I doubt it's 5 years old! Maybe 2?...
Anyway, this is a common issue, the headphone jack is not 'releasing' the sound back to the speaker due to short / stuck connector switch. Blow down it or wiggle the plug.
M.S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok, i was right about the headphone jack making the phone think that it was using headphones when it didn't.
I opened my phone and also opened the casing for the jackplug. I saw that a piecie op copper was bent to far and that it was causing to cancel a circuit wich made the phone think it was unsing no headphones.
When you plug in the headphones, the plug pushes away this copper piece and stops sound.
My solution was to bend the piece back so it makes contact again when the headphones are not plugged in.
Thank you for your advice, it's working great again.
So I got my car dock, I knew it didn't come with a line out, but figured I could add one. You all know how aewsome it would be to have a line out jack on this thing rather than the stock "speakers". Well good news, I am going to make myself a line out and will post pictures about how I am doing it.
I have the thing taken apart right now, and just need to go buy a 3.5mm audio jack.
So, my plan will be to still use the cardock for phone and stereo profiles, just using my car stereo's aux in rather than the dock's weak speakers. I'll leave the microphones on the dock intact, just not the speakers. The good news is the speakers are removable, making room for a 3.5mm audio jack. the bad news? the jack will have to be on the dock body, not base. I'm sure if you try hard enough, one of yoiu will find a place in the base for a jack, but for now, I'm going to add one to the body, on the bottom (in portrait mode).
There you have it, I'll be able to make the dock a semi-permanent fixture in my car and never have to plug in an audio cable to get my music through my car speakers.
Pictures to follow soon, I just couldn't wait to start this project, and get some reactions / moral support.
Someone else looked at doing the same thing a while back. I seem to recall they came up against several hurdles. It is not as clear cut as it seems.
On the face of it- it would seem the approach you are taking will necessitate you having your car stereo ON and AUX selected any time you need to take a phone call. Might be a bit of a pain when you are for example, listening to the car radio and your phone rings. Or if the phone rings and your stereo happens to be turned off.
I find the inbuilt speakers totally adequate for Phone Audio. This arrangement has the benefit it being standalone and means N1 Phone Audio works regardless of current car stereo state. I send the Media Audio to my car stereo via BT though, as it sure benefits from the better speakers quality and auto pauses the Media when the phone is in use.
Good luck with it and do a search for the other thread as there is some good info info in there.
PS take a look through this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=6427057&postcount=39
Might save you some heart ache
I only found that thread, after i had my dock quite disassembled and did a google search for the chipset under the RF shield. :/
I don't use my car's head unit for anything but aux audio, radio is dead to me, so I shouldn't have any problems. The hurdle is the audio being fed to the speakers do NOT share a common ground. They utilize an active-balanced system. both leads are hot, common to themselves.
Now it seems as I will have to choose which channel gets full audio and just bum 'common' from the dominant channel. or i come up with some way to convert two independent balanced audio feeds to a common ground.
I have had no luck looking up the NF2301 daughter board. I was hoping to find a schematic detailing the line level outputs, but no go. I did think it was interesting that the car dock and desktop dock share the same PCB, too bad there is no detailed schematic yet...
FAILURE - giving up
So, after creatively placing some resistors and whatnot, I got a decent line level with common ground, that won't blow up the built-in amp. However, as pointed out in that other thread, there is some BS DSP that notches the lower frequencies out of the signal to the speakers. I got it all setup in my car, plugged in to my aux-out, and it sounded like i was using the voice profile. I took the aux cable and plugged into my headphone jack on the phone, and all the bass came through just fine.
So, for now? The audio out on the car dock is meant for the crappy on-board speakers. not real ones. Sad...
Now, it seems the only way to get an aux out of the cardock would be to swap the board with a desktop dock, and cut a hole for the aux jack, or just do some more soldering to not modify the casing of the cardock.
Too bad, I had it working, but the damn DSP chip/amp puts out ****ty audio quality
Alternatively, at the point you have a desktop dock.... Instead of butchering it for the board, Just install it somewhere out of site in your car and connect it to your cars Aux-in with a 3.5mm lead. Thats what I have done. Works well. Only downside is I still have to manually connect the desktop. It does not autoconnect to deskdock when N1 is placed in cardock obviously.
Too bad your set up did not work for now.
kajer said:
So, after creatively placing some resistors and whatnot, I got a decent line level with common ground, that won't blow up the built-in amp. However, as pointed out in that other thread, there is some BS DSP that notches the lower frequencies out of the signal to the speakers. I got it all setup in my car, plugged in to my aux-out, and it sounded like i was using the voice profile. I took the aux cable and plugged into my headphone jack on the phone, and all the bass came through just fine.
So, for now? The audio out on the car dock is meant for the crappy on-board speakers. not real ones. Sad...
Now, it seems the only way to get an aux out of the cardock would be to swap the board with a desktop dock, and cut a hole for the aux jack, or just do some more soldering to not modify the casing of the cardock.
Too bad, I had it working, but the damn DSP chip/amp puts out ****ty audio quality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe it's using a low bitrate A2DP bluetooth transfer. Either way, bluetooth will be lower quality than a direct plug.
khaytsus said:
Either way, bluetooth will be lower quality than a direct plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe this is the likely reason why Google didn't include an audio out port on the dock. Yes, it's on the desktop dock, but that's really all the desktop dock handles, whereas the car dock has a mic as well, etc.
I would be interested in detailed disassembly instructions if you wouldn't mind.
wonkotron said:
I would be interested in detailed disassembly instructions if you wouldn't mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
detail isn't really necessary, it's pretty straightforward.
-get a knife and use it to peel off the black rectangular sticker on the front of the dock. it's right where the battery on the phone is when it's docked.
-undo the 4 screws behind the sticker
-pop the two halves of the phone-holder part of the dock apart. if you can't get them apart with a bit of pulling get your thumb nail or a knife in between the two halves.
that's about as far as you need to go to get to the useful bits.
jamezracer said:
Stuff
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Click to collapse
Thanks! I'll see if I can figure anything out.
I had this same idea when I first got my car dock, but I couldn't convince myself to hack my new dock. Instead I hacked an old stereo Bluetooth headset with the same mod and it works perfectly.
Don't ignore this post...
Ok So I took a dive in to it. I disassembled my dock (yes even after reading all that I could find on the internet, including this thread), but in disbelief I wanted to find out for my self. I soldered a head phone jack to the speaker wires, and thought I had something good when connected to my computer speakers. (it worked and I was surprised). But after hooking it all up in the car and actually hearing the quality, I was sorrily disappointed.
Major failure, the sound is terrible. Not tolerable at all. Comparable to scratching fingernails across a chalk board and trying to listen to some good tunes at the same time from an FM radio with very poor reception.
Heed my warning, do not attempt to mod the dock for an FM out, it will not work.
So I just got an MTCD head unit (JY-UL-135). My first Android head unit and so far I'm massively underwhelmed and need guidance to fix a few potential issues. I try to keep my car as stock-looking as possible, so I REALLY don't want switches and knobs all over my interior to do things any other head unit would...
So, issue 1.) The power antenna on my car comes up whenever the head unit is on, even when I'm not using the radio. I almost never use the radio and I don't want my antenna up all the time. Any way to fix this without a switch or disconnecting it entirely?
2.) Bluetooth... I'm not heart broken about losing clear bluetooth audio streaming, (something my cheaper alpine unit had no problem with...) and i use a wired mic, but if this thing can't connect to basic blutooth tech, i may return it. 90% of the reason i got this thing was for a bluetooth garage remote, obd2 reader, bluetooth tire pressure sensors, and a bluetooth arduino board for another project. If this really can't do things even my phone can, it's junk. Those accessories will be delivered next week so i'll find out then but it seems like they shipped this unit with broken bluetooth and still haven't fixed it. Help?
3.) Steering wheel controls. So i understand that without xposed, android head units can only use steering wheel controls for the stock apps. And xposed doesn't work on MTCD units yet...
It's also the slowest android i've seen since my old, old. OLD droid x but that may not be that big a deal over time. So can anyone point me in the right direction for these issues? Also does anyone make a better unit than these?
I returned my mtcd unit because of wifi and bluetooth issues. The antenna issue you have is probably because you hooked up to remote blue line instead of antenna blue line.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk
supersilko said:
I returned my mtcd unit because of wifi and bluetooth issues. The antenna issue you have is probably because you hooked up to remote blue line instead of antenna blue line.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, i might have... but what did you replace the MTCD unit with, an MTCB?
EDIT: I have a crazy idea to keep my nice single din alpine unit connected to my sound system and mount it in my glove box, then connect the android unit to its aux in. Then put the steering wheel controls on a 3.5mm switch box between both units. I'd use the alpine for audio processing, bluetooth music, and hands free calls, then the android for android apps + backup camera and thumbstick music. Am I insane or would this be a good compromise? My phone would also control all the bluetooth peripherals I mentioned. I also plan on getting a dedicated second battery for the audio equipment (already have 2 amps plus a capacitor) so that might be more critical afterwards.
I'm back to stock stereo. Gonna look around for a good unit that is coming later.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk
I just got a Joying unit for a Jeep this weekend.
#1 - can't help, Jeep antenna stays up all the time
#2 - I only use Bluetooth for phone calls or playing audio, works fine in both scenarios. One odd caveat is that if I am on a phone call the audio seems only to come out of the front passenger speaker. I use the included external mic and people say I sound fine
#3 - My steering wheel controls half work. Volume and mute work all the time, same for Bluetooth phone. The controls to change the track only work on stock apps like Music, A2DP, DVD, etc, meaning it does not work on Google Play Music or Pandora. Volume steering wheel controls work fine with Pandora and Google Play Music
I have the Same Unit.. I have it on the bench as I was getting ready to installing in place of my Newsmy. I tested the remote lines tonight.
Power antenna, shows 12v once power is applied.. stays at 12v until Accessory power is removed.
Amp Remote works as it should, it I power off the radio from the knob. the 12v amp remote turns off.. Ant stays on.. ALL THE TIME. This unit is no better than my Newsmy. I have had it too long now to return it. Guess I will sell it for something simple. I am going to miss the back up camera, but I need something that fully works as I have full power mast antenna..
TallgeeseIV said:
So I just got an MTCD head unit (JY-UL-135). My first Android head unit and so far I'm massively underwhelmed and need guidance to fix a few potential issues. I try to keep my car as stock-looking as possible, so I REALLY don't want switches and knobs all over my interior to do things any other head unit would...
So, issue 1.) The power antenna on my car comes up whenever the head unit is on, even when I'm not using the radio. I almost never use the radio and I don't want my antenna up all the time. Any way to fix this without a switch or disconnecting it entirely?
2.) Bluetooth... I'm not heart broken about losing clear bluetooth audio streaming, (something my cheaper alpine unit had no problem with...) and i use a wired mic, but if this thing can't connect to basic blutooth tech, i may return it. 90% of the reason i got this thing was for a bluetooth garage remote, obd2 reader, bluetooth tire pressure sensors, and a bluetooth arduino board for another project. If this really can't do things even my phone can, it's junk. Those accessories will be delivered next week so i'll find out then but it seems like they shipped this unit with broken bluetooth and still haven't fixed it. Help?
3.) Steering wheel controls. So i understand that without xposed, android head units can only use steering wheel controls for the stock apps. And xposed doesn't work on MTCD units yet...
It's also the slowest android i've seen since my old, old. OLD droid x but that may not be that big a deal over time. So can anyone point me in the right direction for these issues? Also does anyone make a better unit than these?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
JY-UL124 here
+1 to Bluetooth issues. SuperSU completely broke bluetooth forcing me to reflash to get any functionality back.
I'm really bummed they basically lock you into joining only a phone and an ODB device and that's it. Nothing else can be paired with the unit. This is a little hokey and really devalues the whole system in my opinion.
Bluetooth has pretty poor sound quality through the unit too but it may not be bluetooth specifically causing the issue. I drive an FJ cruiser so cabin sound proofing isn't great to begin with. To compete with road noise I have to blast the stereo and the highs come up fuzzy in the process. When I'm stopped or idleing it seems that most of my issue goes away and the sound isn't half bad provided I'm playing from a sound file physically on my phone and not streaming. I need to tear into it again later to install the front camera and fog lights so when I do that I'll add in some capacitors and a torrid to try to clean up power to the unit to see if that helps.
If I'm right, the bluetooth is functional so far as taking the signal and turning it into meaningful audio. It's a digital technology so either the data gets there or it doesn't. I haven't dug too much into the spec but I assume I should be hearing whatever I hear at idle at any speed. Anyhow, once that is turned into an analog signal for delivery to the speakers (and the functional parts in between) that's where you can introduce sound degradation. So this is a function of the amp, or the fact that my hookup wires or so long, or something. I have also noticed that shortly after "bluetoothing" a short sound like a delivery notice the amp stays on for a short second or so and you can hear the interference with some digital rf. (like the sound you get when you put a cell phone too close to computer speakers) It's faint but it is there along with some static. There is no way that bare speaker wire could pick up digital rf and make it sound that loud, so that means somehow rf is leaking into the circuitry before the amp.
I'm praying I'm right and it's leaking in through power somewhere cause that's an easy fix. If it's not then it's something with the board design and there's rf leaking from the circuitry and making it into the audio signal inside the unit. That has a low probability of being fixable.
Hey everyone, I took a leap of faith and bought the following product from Amazon...it's about $10:
http://a.co/49qKkqH
I'm shocked to say this thing works perfectly in my Mi Mix 2. I'm not an expert on audio but it sounds the same as with the standard included dongle, and the charging seems to work fine too but I think it's limited to 500mA perhaps as a USB-C limitation. I also tested the charge rates with my Axon 7 (which won't allow for audio with this thing, but does allow charging), and it *seems* that this charger works at about 0.5 amps only but at least it will allow for GPS/music, etc. without really bleeding battery power. I was able to keep a slight positive charge with WiFi off, GPS active, screen on low-ish brightness, and music playing (from internal storage...not streaming music) over the phone speakers..albeit only about 50-100 mA...but, the charge percent did slowly go up.
Of course, I'm not sure how long this thing will last...or if there may be some other deficiency with it that I'm not aware of, but so far so good and if you're frustrated by the lack of a headphone jack this may help you...and it's pretty cheap so I guess I'm not too worried.
EDIT: One limitation I just noticed...the microphone on my headset seems not to work during calls (the audio of the caller is fine though)...but the microphone on the phone is fine so you just have to aim your voice into the phone's base. Also, it seems like the controls on my headset don't work either (i.e., volume up/down, etc.). So, I'm not sure if different headsets will yield different results but just wanted to communicate this [apparent] limitation.
EDIT (AGAIN): The button issue/microphone issue seems to be resolved by reversing the orientation of the male USB-C connector. That is, if you only get a headphone and not a full-function headset when you use this, try unplugging the USB-C connector from the phone, flipping it over, and then reconnecting it.
https://www.amazon.com/Wofalodata-H...=1509570567&sr=8-1&keywords=wofalodata+type+c
I have that one, and it works well for charging and playing music.
flyer_andy said:
Hey everyone, I took a leap of faith and bought the following product from Amazon...it's about $10:
http://a.co/49qKkqH
I'm shocked to say this thing works perfectly in my Mi Mix 2. I'm not an expert on audio but it sounds the same as with the standard included dongle, and the charging seems to work fine too but I think it's limited to 500mA perhaps as a USB-C limitation. I also tested the charge rates with my Axon 7 (which won't allow for audio with this thing, but does allow charging), and it *seems* that this charger works at about 0.5 amps only but at least it will allow for GPS/music, etc. without really bleeding battery power. I was able to keep a slight positive charge with WiFi off, GPS active, screen on low-ish brightness, and music playing (from internal storage...not streaming music) over the phone speakers..albeit only about 50-100 mA...but, the charge percent did slowly go up.
Of course, I'm not sure how long this thing will last...or if there may be some other deficiency with it that I'm not aware of, but so far so good and if you're frustrated by the lack of a headphone jack this may help you...and it's pretty cheap so I guess I'm not too worried.
EDIT: One limitation I just noticed...the microphone on my headset seems not to work during calls (the audio of the caller is fine though)...but the microphone on the phone is fine so you just have to aim your voice into the phone's base. Also, it seems like the controls on my headset don't work either (i.e., volume up/down, etc.). So, I'm not sure if different headsets will yield different results but just wanted to communicate this [apparent] limitation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! I was going to to start a thread asking if anyone found one that works.
I have a couple questions about the headphone buttons. Does the play/pause button still work with the combo dongle? Or do none of the buttons work?
Unrelated to the Amazon product, do your headphone buttons work with the Xiaomi dongle? I have a headset with a play/pause button and volume up/down that works perfectly with my Mix but only the play/pause button works correctly on the Mix 2. Are you running stock ROM? I have a feeling my button problems have to do with the fact that my Mix has a MIUI-based ROM and I have a Lineage-based ROM on the Mix 2.
Either way thanks for taking the plunge and sharing.
alose said:
https://www.amazon.com/Wofalodata-H...=1509570567&sr=8-1&keywords=wofalodata+type+c
I have that one, and it works well for charging and playing music.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do headphone buttons work with this one? Is charging as slow as the one in the OP?
chimera533 said:
Thanks! I was going to to start a thread asking if anyone found one that works.
I have a couple questions about the headphone buttons. Does the play/pause button still work with the combo dongle? Or do none of the buttons work?
Unrelated to the Amazon product, do your headphone buttons work with the Xiaomi dongle? I have a headset with a play/pause button and volume up/down that works perfectly with my Mix but only the play/pause button works correctly on the Mix 2. Are you running stock ROM? I have a feeling my button problems have to do with the fact that my Mix has a MIUI-based ROM and I have a Lineage-based ROM on the Mix 2.
Either way thanks for taking the plunge and sharing.
Do headphone buttons work with this one? Is charging as slow as the one in the OP?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I have the exact same experience with respect to the buttons...when I try the stock dongle, I do get pause/call answer functions but the volume up/down doesn't work. I know that Xiaomi does have their own headphones so maybe you don't get full functionality with non-Xiaomi headphones? Not sure...I'm using Bose headphones, as a reference.
Ok...so something really weird just happened...using the combo dongle I now *do* get phone microphone audio through my headset and also the call button does seem to work, but instead of ending the call it mutes the microphone. Also, the icon in the status bar now shows headset+mic and not just headset...maybe it was a quirk earlier or the headphone was loose or something.
Also, I seem to get much better charge rates with the Mi Mix 2 as opposed to the Axon 7...I'm getting about 1000 mA I think...I've attached a screenshot. It shows around 800 mA but I bet with the screen off you'd get around 1000.
Sorry for lots of inconsistency here! I'll have to keep trying this thing but it does seem that there's hope!
EDIT: Ok I think I figured out the inconsistent operation. I had purchased two of these dongles...one of them appears to have a defect where audio works, but buttons and microphone do not. The headphone jack is tighter on the [half] defective one so maybe there's just a bad connection in there...in any case it looks like there may be some manufacturing QA issues with the dongle which means they may have some inconsistencies between them...maybe it'd be worth buying two or three and and planning on sending back any that aren't needed.
Do headphone buttons work with this one? Is charging as slow as the one in the OP?[/QUOTE]
Fast charging is supported on the Wofalodata, and at least Pause/play works.
I ordered the one in the OP and I'm not impressed. Charging seems to be stuck around 500mA for me. I could live with that. Zero of my headphone buttons work which is less forgivable. But the worst part is it's already falling apart. The headphone jack was so tight that I pulled off the outer sheath while trying to cram my headphones into it. Picture attached. That silver part hanging loose around the wire should be attached to the headphone jack.
I ordered the second adapter from this thread today to see how I like it. Curse Apple for starting the no headphone jack trend.
Edit: I now also get really bad static through my headphones when I have the adapter plugged in to a power source. Before I was using it with a half charged phone. Now my phone is fully charged. That may be the difference.
chimera533 said:
I ordered the one in the OP and I'm not impressed. Charging seems to be stuck around 500mA for me. I could live with that. Zero of my headphone buttons work which is less forgivable. But the worst part is it's already falling apart. The headphone jack was so tight that I pulled off the outer sheath while trying to cram my headphones into it. Picture attached. That silver part hanging loose around the wire should be attached to the headphone jack.
I ordered the second adapter from this thread today to see how I like it. Curse Apple for starting the no headphone jack trend.
Edit: I now also get really bad static through my headphones when I have the adapter plugged in to a power source. Before I was using it with a half charged phone. Now my phone is fully charged. That may be the difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah mine does the static noise if it's sitting at 100% charge too...best to unplug at that point if possible though I agree that's annoying.
Sorry to hear the silver part fell off...one of my adapters is a bit tight on the 3.5mm jack too but it has gotten better with use.
As far as the buttons - I think I've discovered the issue. It's totally bizarre...but...it seems that if I insert the USB-C male end in with the metal seam upward (i.e., so that the headphone jack is on the left side) the buttons work as expected (as does the microphone). In case you just want headphone functionality, the adapter can be flipped/inserted where the 3.5mm jack is on the right side of the USB-C port...the phone's speakerphone mic appears to pick up audio for calls in this use case but it actually is useful when I'm using my car's AUX port as I can make better calls way. Here's a video:
Thank you! It does matter how you plug it in. For me it's actually the opposite. I need to plug it in with the seam facing the back of the phone (headphone jack on right) to get my play/pause working. None of the other buttons work but I wasn't expecting them to.
I also get a slight hiss when the phone isn't at 100% charge and like you said a horrible static noise when plugged in at 100%. But I think I can deal with that.
I think now I can at least superglue the sheath back on and get some use out of it.
chimera533 said:
Thank you! It does matter how you plug it in. For me it's actually the opposite. I need to plug it in with the seam facing the back of the phone (headphone jack on right) to get my play/pause working. None of the other buttons work but I wasn't expecting them to.
I also get a slight hiss when the phone isn't at 100% charge and like you said a horrible static noise when plugged in at 100%. But I think I can deal with that.
I think now I can at least superglue the sheath back on and get some use out of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sweet! How odd! Yeah definitely not the best-built accessory but so far it does seem to work...I hope at some point a more reputable producer makes something like this as it's a great idea but like you pointed out...not-so-perfect implementation. I will keep in mind your experience with that sheath coming off though...now I know to be super careful with that connection!
And I totally agree on the whole killing the headphone jack thing...really really aggravated with that development myself...it seems the OEMs are driving the marketplace whereas it should be the other way around.
flyer_andy said:
Sweet! How odd! Yeah definitely not the best-built accessory but so far it does seem to work...I hope at some point a more reputable producer makes something like this as it's a great idea but like you pointed out...not-so-perfect implementation. I will keep in mind your experience with that sheath coming off though...now I know to be super careful with that connection!
And I totally agree on the whole killing the headphone jack thing...really really aggravated with that development myself...it seems the OEMs are driving the marketplace whereas it should be the other way around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This one works, I have this one I use while in bed with headphones and charging, Doesn't fast charge, but it's not really slow either.
Its made of metal and the cables are braided, Its good quality.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Typ...-3-5mm-Jack-Audio-Earphone-Y/32832185514.html
I have an alternative solution. I'm beyond impressed with these things for how much they cost. Good sound, good battery life, and good comfort. They don't ever drop connection either. I used to hate on BT headphones until I got these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VVL4WJZ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi all,
I have purchased a PX5 unit made for my 2008 Mazda 6. Unfortunately, it suffers from an issue with the audio quality. Whenever the audio level is above 0, a static/interference noise can be heard, and the pitch of this sound changes when driving, similar to alternator whine.
This is relatively loud, and can be heard even when moving or when sound is at low volume. If required, I could create a recording of the noise. I have updated the MCU to the latest available version to no avail.
I am relatively confident at soldering and am willing/able to take the HU apart to make modifications if anyone has any recomendations as to what I can do? I have seen various hardware mods floating around, but nothing that conclusively seems to say it will help with my issue.
There is also a large amount of static/interference when using Bluetooth for calls, but mainly to the party not connected to the car (IE the person calling in can hear the noise). Unsure if this is related, but the noise appears to be a similar pattern and pitch.
This issue is present both with the car running and off, and also was present on a bench power supply during testing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Should be an easy fix. https://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rg...car/noise_suppressors_installation_guide.html
Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the post, but unfortunately the noise is present even when connected to a bench supply, with no additional interference from the car present. There is no amplifier in this scenario, so I am fairly confident the issue comes from the HU itself. I'm not sure if there may be something I can re-route or shield inside the unit to minimise it? I don't mind if I can't eliminate it entirely, but I would. Like to minimise the issue.
Thanks!
I found that I was able to remove one aspect of the noise by turning off the colour cycling of the front LEDs. This was causing a kind of pulsating low pitch siren type noise in the audio.
It appears that having the front LEDs on anything other than full power or completely off causes the noise to varying degrees.
I still have a fair amount of cracking/static type noises, but I was able to somewhat lower the volume and improve the quality by attaching RCA cables directly to the outputs of the BD37033 chip. I'm not entirely sure what occurs after this chip in terms of sound processing, as in was difficult to trace out on the PCB. Interestingly, this modification means that the static is produced even when the unit is booting or on mute, which didn't occur before. I found this odd, as the mute functionality (And all other functionality as far as I was able to tell) is retained.
I assume the signal goes back to the MCU before going out to the factory RCA outlets and amp.
If anyone knows more, I would lose to hear it!
I have the same issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTNJVWFpBlw&feature=youtu.be
There is a static / hissing sound when the volume is on, changing volume doesn't affect it.
I might to try to upgrade the amp chip to Pioneer PA2030A from TDA7851 to see if it will fix it...
Hi.
I have the same issue with my radio in Mazda CX-9 with Bose.
Version of the radio:
PX5 Malaysk 6.0.1 MXC89L 20170901.180527 MCU VERSION MTCD_KLD_V_2.57_1 - now I have the newest version, and the problem is still the same.
I have a lot of noise when searching for something on the radio, or connecting something under USB (at the rear panel - when I'm connecting in the front - it is OK), while listening to music quietly.
What I've done so far:
1. Upgraded to the latest version of Malaysk with of course wipe all data - nothing changed.
2. Installed: anti-interference voltage filter, it works because I can not hear feedback from the car's electrical system, the alternator is not audible anymore.
3. I wrapped the cables on the back with aluminum foil plus tape insulation - nothing changed, maybe a little less noise from the radio, but still I hear all the time.
4. I connected back to the original radio - no noise - absolute silence from the speakers
The most annoying is the increasing noise of the car during driving, I have to manually adjust the volume, which does not change anyway.
Is "the cheap" radio from China, I dont know what to do.
I think that the problem is that the radio does not work well with the Bose amplifier.
I had Mazda CX-9 without Bose, and installed cheap amp with cheap radio from China - and everything worked perfect, no noises at all ! Because the amplifier was cutting out this noise with no problem.
Here the Bose amp have huge problems with that noise, I don't know why.
This noise is nothing but the noise of data transfer over the radio, which I hear all the time once more quietly and louder, as I connect, for example, a car camera to the rear USB, this noise is unbearable.
The best solution, IMHO is to remove the Bose amplifier from the car and connect the radio to another A / B class amplifier, which is much better at reducing these disturbances.
But it is a lot of work to make the whole installation work perfectly.
Me too...
I have also got this issue with my MTCD GS unit. My car has Bose also. I have tried earthing various point/things with the head unit hanging out of the dash but no change. I have also tried disabling the WiFi & Bluetooth and again no change.
I noticed the other day when I put my headlights on and the backlights on the unit came on the noise increased slightly so there might be something in the LED thing.
Andy
Exactly same thing for me too. Cheap units..
Hi.
I'll try with:
Car Stereo Audio Wire to 4 Channel RCA High to Low Audio Level Converter Adaptor
And let you know if it is OK.
I wonder, after all, the Chinese radio has a low output to the amplifier, just through the RCA plug, it can try this connection yet.
Connect to the Bose amplifier via the RCA plugs
PRODUCT FEATURES:
4 Channel Hi/Lo Audio level converter
Converts speaker level audio to line level (RCA) output
Adjustable output level to allow input to suit various amplifiers
Also eliminates signal noise
Maximum input from speaker level: 100 Watts
The noise is even related to the touch screen on my side, touching the screen changes the hiss
Removing the Bose amp and connecting a new amp with just RCA cables has improved the issue, but not eliminated it. My next step is to remove the amplifier chip entirely and see if that makes a difference (As I am only using the low level outputs I do not need the amp chip)
kaise123 said:
Removing the Bose amp and connecting a new amp with just RCA cables has improved the issue, but not eliminated it. My next step is to remove the amplifier chip entirely and see if that makes a difference (As I am only using the low level outputs I do not need the amp chip)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried connecting via normale speaker lines, using a HLA? -> I also have a factory amp and using the RCAs got me ground issues - not present with the normal lines, so I ordered a HLA.
You can lower the output to max -15db in factory settings which I use in the meantime..
Xorit said:
Have you tried connecting via normale speaker lines, using a HLA? -> I also have a factory amp and using the RCAs got me ground issues - not present with the normal lines, so I ordered a HLA.
You can lower the output to max -15db in factory settings which I use in the meantime..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for the answer.
I reduced the decibels to -9dB and noticed that it is much better, but of course the noises are only less audible.
I'm waiting for High quality audio converter to RCA cables, and let you know and let if I have eliminated the noise completely.
DD
dranet said:
Hi, thanks for the answer.
I reduced the decibels to -9dB and noticed that it is much better, but of course the noises are only less audible.
I'm waiting for High quality audio converter to RCA cables, and let you know and let if I have eliminated the noise completely.
DD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Should recieve my HLA today and will report back aswell. I have given up on the RCA jacks from the HU though.
I found that the RCA jacks were considerably better than the speaker level outputs as far as both noise and quality go. I was already using the speker level outputs when I initially noticed the issue.
kaise123 said:
I found that the RCA jacks were considerably better than the speaker level outputs as far as both noise and quality go. I was already using the speker level outputs when I initially noticed the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. I was able to tune the the "static noise" out of my system using a 3-way electronic crossover/ line driver buy turning down its gain till the noise went away. Lost a bit of volume, but just had to turn the head unit volume up a bit more to make up for it. Not much you can do with speaker level inputs except not to use them and use external amplifiers for all your speakers.
I believe the cause of the noise is an internal isolation problem, not to sure if any isolation can be added to the inside of the unit, When the wifi was on i was getting some bad feedback as well, but i was able to tune that out as well.
Guys, I was able to install the HLA today and beside I cant bring it to clip the sound has improved regarding base.
Turned the gain little up and am now satisfied with the result.
I had a hissing noise from the start even with oem radio and this is gone aswell.
All that using the speaker lines towards oem amp.
Octane70 said:
I agree. I was able to tune the the "static noise" out of my system using a 3-way electronic crossover/ line driver buy turning down its gain till the noise went away. Lost a bit of volume, but just had to turn the head unit volume up a bit more to make up for it. Not much you can do with speaker level inputs except not to use them and use external amplifiers for all your speakers.
I believe the cause of the noise is an internal isolation problem, not to sure if any isolation can be added to the inside of the unit, When the wifi was on i was getting some bad feedback as well, but i was able to tune that out as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also believe this is related to the inside of the unit having poor power delivery and bad isolation. Unfortunately the audio is all routed on the main PCB itself so it is not easy to isolate it. I did improve things considerably by soldering directly to the output from the BD37534FV controller and then using this as my RCA output. I did try some further digging but wasn't able to trace the source of the noise back any further.
Next I am going to try adding a capacitor to the power supply, removing the built in TDAXXX amp chip and seeing if I can improve the ground connection on the unit.
Hi.
Finally, I achieved what I wanted more or less, I reduced the number of noises to a minimum, using RCA converters from high to low voltage, adjustable at the expense of the output volume, but I made up for it with the Viper4android module, making listening to music comparable to sitting in a concert hall. Cool effects can be obtained with this module.
That's enough for me, of course, the noise is still present, but it's not as bothersome as before. I do not have the effect anymore that while driving from 100 km / h up, the noise increases and the volume stays constant.
Still, unfortunately, I can not connect anything to the rear USB, because the speakers start to tweet data transmission, similar to the transmission of the modem only faster, I have a USB webcam connected to the front of the radio, unfortunately it is annoying but at least there is no noise.
Of course, to reduce the number of noises in the car completely, I would have to exchange Chinese cheap radio, for which I paid some 300USD for some better, eg from Xtrons radio, they are supposedly better done, but I would have to play with 2DIN frames and it will not be anymore perfectly fit in place of the old radio.
Thanks
DD
This is what I use:
ESX High-To-Low Level Converter ISC4
or
HIFONICS HCV4