So I got my car dock, I knew it didn't come with a line out, but figured I could add one. You all know how aewsome it would be to have a line out jack on this thing rather than the stock "speakers". Well good news, I am going to make myself a line out and will post pictures about how I am doing it.
I have the thing taken apart right now, and just need to go buy a 3.5mm audio jack.
So, my plan will be to still use the cardock for phone and stereo profiles, just using my car stereo's aux in rather than the dock's weak speakers. I'll leave the microphones on the dock intact, just not the speakers. The good news is the speakers are removable, making room for a 3.5mm audio jack. the bad news? the jack will have to be on the dock body, not base. I'm sure if you try hard enough, one of yoiu will find a place in the base for a jack, but for now, I'm going to add one to the body, on the bottom (in portrait mode).
There you have it, I'll be able to make the dock a semi-permanent fixture in my car and never have to plug in an audio cable to get my music through my car speakers.
Pictures to follow soon, I just couldn't wait to start this project, and get some reactions / moral support.
Someone else looked at doing the same thing a while back. I seem to recall they came up against several hurdles. It is not as clear cut as it seems.
On the face of it- it would seem the approach you are taking will necessitate you having your car stereo ON and AUX selected any time you need to take a phone call. Might be a bit of a pain when you are for example, listening to the car radio and your phone rings. Or if the phone rings and your stereo happens to be turned off.
I find the inbuilt speakers totally adequate for Phone Audio. This arrangement has the benefit it being standalone and means N1 Phone Audio works regardless of current car stereo state. I send the Media Audio to my car stereo via BT though, as it sure benefits from the better speakers quality and auto pauses the Media when the phone is in use.
Good luck with it and do a search for the other thread as there is some good info info in there.
PS take a look through this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=6427057&postcount=39
Might save you some heart ache
I only found that thread, after i had my dock quite disassembled and did a google search for the chipset under the RF shield. :/
I don't use my car's head unit for anything but aux audio, radio is dead to me, so I shouldn't have any problems. The hurdle is the audio being fed to the speakers do NOT share a common ground. They utilize an active-balanced system. both leads are hot, common to themselves.
Now it seems as I will have to choose which channel gets full audio and just bum 'common' from the dominant channel. or i come up with some way to convert two independent balanced audio feeds to a common ground.
I have had no luck looking up the NF2301 daughter board. I was hoping to find a schematic detailing the line level outputs, but no go. I did think it was interesting that the car dock and desktop dock share the same PCB, too bad there is no detailed schematic yet...
FAILURE - giving up
So, after creatively placing some resistors and whatnot, I got a decent line level with common ground, that won't blow up the built-in amp. However, as pointed out in that other thread, there is some BS DSP that notches the lower frequencies out of the signal to the speakers. I got it all setup in my car, plugged in to my aux-out, and it sounded like i was using the voice profile. I took the aux cable and plugged into my headphone jack on the phone, and all the bass came through just fine.
So, for now? The audio out on the car dock is meant for the crappy on-board speakers. not real ones. Sad...
Now, it seems the only way to get an aux out of the cardock would be to swap the board with a desktop dock, and cut a hole for the aux jack, or just do some more soldering to not modify the casing of the cardock.
Too bad, I had it working, but the damn DSP chip/amp puts out ****ty audio quality
Alternatively, at the point you have a desktop dock.... Instead of butchering it for the board, Just install it somewhere out of site in your car and connect it to your cars Aux-in with a 3.5mm lead. Thats what I have done. Works well. Only downside is I still have to manually connect the desktop. It does not autoconnect to deskdock when N1 is placed in cardock obviously.
Too bad your set up did not work for now.
kajer said:
So, after creatively placing some resistors and whatnot, I got a decent line level with common ground, that won't blow up the built-in amp. However, as pointed out in that other thread, there is some BS DSP that notches the lower frequencies out of the signal to the speakers. I got it all setup in my car, plugged in to my aux-out, and it sounded like i was using the voice profile. I took the aux cable and plugged into my headphone jack on the phone, and all the bass came through just fine.
So, for now? The audio out on the car dock is meant for the crappy on-board speakers. not real ones. Sad...
Now, it seems the only way to get an aux out of the cardock would be to swap the board with a desktop dock, and cut a hole for the aux jack, or just do some more soldering to not modify the casing of the cardock.
Too bad, I had it working, but the damn DSP chip/amp puts out ****ty audio quality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe it's using a low bitrate A2DP bluetooth transfer. Either way, bluetooth will be lower quality than a direct plug.
khaytsus said:
Either way, bluetooth will be lower quality than a direct plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe this is the likely reason why Google didn't include an audio out port on the dock. Yes, it's on the desktop dock, but that's really all the desktop dock handles, whereas the car dock has a mic as well, etc.
I would be interested in detailed disassembly instructions if you wouldn't mind.
wonkotron said:
I would be interested in detailed disassembly instructions if you wouldn't mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
detail isn't really necessary, it's pretty straightforward.
-get a knife and use it to peel off the black rectangular sticker on the front of the dock. it's right where the battery on the phone is when it's docked.
-undo the 4 screws behind the sticker
-pop the two halves of the phone-holder part of the dock apart. if you can't get them apart with a bit of pulling get your thumb nail or a knife in between the two halves.
that's about as far as you need to go to get to the useful bits.
jamezracer said:
Stuff
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! I'll see if I can figure anything out.
I had this same idea when I first got my car dock, but I couldn't convince myself to hack my new dock. Instead I hacked an old stereo Bluetooth headset with the same mod and it works perfectly.
Don't ignore this post...
Ok So I took a dive in to it. I disassembled my dock (yes even after reading all that I could find on the internet, including this thread), but in disbelief I wanted to find out for my self. I soldered a head phone jack to the speaker wires, and thought I had something good when connected to my computer speakers. (it worked and I was surprised). But after hooking it all up in the car and actually hearing the quality, I was sorrily disappointed.
Major failure, the sound is terrible. Not tolerable at all. Comparable to scratching fingernails across a chalk board and trying to listen to some good tunes at the same time from an FM radio with very poor reception.
Heed my warning, do not attempt to mod the dock for an FM out, it will not work.
Related
I amazed I'm the first one to notice this, so I'm probably not. I took apart my car dock and found the PCB inside is almost identical to the desktop dock (see photos). The upshot here is that I would strongly guess that you could easily solder on parts to either one and add things like:
- An audio out jack to the car dock (!)
- Volume up/down switches to the desktop dock
- Speakers (small ones!) to the desktop dock
- An external mic to the desktop dock
Most of that doesn't seem so great, but adding an audio jack to the car dock would be fantastic.
Pictures 1 & 2 are the desktop dock, 3 & 4 are the car dock.
Notice the unused pads on the car dock PCB (pic #4) for a headphone jack at bottom left.
Notice the pads for the speakers in pic #2 (desktop dock) at the top.
Also in in pic #2 you can see where the volume rocker would connect at bottom left and mic at bottom center.
Finally the tiny circle near my thumb in pic #4 looks to be a micro antenna jack, hard to tell for sure.
JB
That's incredibly lame of google to not put the audio out when it's the same pcb.
James Bell said:
I amazed I'm the first one to notice this, so I'm probably not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good find.
Along a vaguely similar vain, I suggested over here a method of using a Desk Dock as Car AUX input. It has certain benefits over non OEM accessories that do similar. I am in the process if fitting a USB power supply to my car. Once that is done I will fit the Desk Dock semi permanent out of site as a BT AUX in feed.
Of course getting an AUX jack in the Car Dock would be much better.
next thing would be prying off the metal cover and see if they have the same circuitry inside. Then if yes all you have to do is solder a 3.5 female jack on it and voila'...
fan or heatsink?
cool beans!
i wonder if you could install a copper backing plate connected to a heatsink (like ones you can buy for ram) instead of the plastic piece to help with the high heat issues some are having...hmm...
seems like there's enough room
Dude, love how you tore the desktop dock apart on your desk and the car dock in your car.
Since the pcb's are the same size, couldn't you swap them out, cut a hole in the case and then you'd have audio out on the car dock?
=D
@muncheese
Yah I think so. Problem is it'd recognize it as the desktop dock...errr and you'd lose the speakers and volume rocker from the car dock.
My motivation to solder on an old headphone jack is low - my '01 325 doesn't have an aux in to plug into it! Maybe I'll do it anyway if I can find the right jack.
@SPAS79
I started to pry off the metal top but ran out of time to fool with it. I want to look up the chips and see if any of their outputs can be used to trigger the mute line on my stereo.
Well the speaker wouldnt matter since it'll be going through the car audio system, same for the volume, just control the car stereo volume. =)
I took off the metal cover on the desktop dock, picture below.
There's a daughtercard called an NF2301. Made by nFore and (poorly) described here:
http://www.nforetek.com/products.htm
Adding an Aux out on the Car Dock will place it on the Dock itself.
Ideally for neatness, it would be on the base near the suction cup. I suppose you could run a short cable along the chrome arm and situate the jack on the base near the USB outlet.
Chrome arm should be hollow as it already has power running through it. Might be enough room to run a small cable through it.
This is very exciting
Keep us updated on what happens with you!
Bump!
this is fantastic news. I actually have an audio socket left over from my desk dock audio switch project. If someone wants to buy me another car dock or can prove that soldering on a jack will work then i'd be willing to rip it apart and do what google SHOULD have done in the first place!
I cant wait for some chinese company to make this for the nexus:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19747
I have one currently that I used with my iphone and while it felt cheap.. It did everything:
held my iphone in place in the car
charged and did audio out with single sync cable
audio out can be routed either to the 3.5mm aux line AND the built in FM transmitter
remote (which stopped working after 1 week)
Mostly I like the fact that it mounted/charged/audio-out my iphone all at once with 1 cable and was only $12 shipped.. I would love something similar for my nexus
If all the talk about the 2.2 update enabling the FM transmitter is true. It would explain why the car dock has no audio out.
And if Google keeps the Nexus One updates on the same track it should be arriving next Tuesday.
First Tuesday of every month has had a blog update and the second of update of each month has been on or around the last Wednesday.
sweltzin said:
If all the talk about the 2.2 update enabling the FM transmitter is true. It would explain why the car dock has no audio out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have seen no talk of enabling an FM TRANSMITTER. Just rumours of them enabling an FM receiver, which would be no solution for the car dock.
Even if it did have an FM transmitter, I would prefer the audio out on the dock. Less hassle, better sound.
logger said:
I have seen no talk of enabling an FM TRANSMITTER. Just rumours of them enabling an FM receiver, which would be no solution for the car dock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's both.
muncheese said:
It's both.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats a fairly vague comment.
Yeah the radio is a transceiver. Thats fairly obvious. It is after all a cellphone.
But are you saying Google will be activating the FM transmitter in such a way as it will transmit audio to a car FM radio? Or are you just saying the FM radio fitted to the phone is a transceiver.
Anyone got a good one for N1?
I want to listen to music while driving. I have been using FM transmitter for my Tilt2 and iPod touch. Wondering if there's a good one for N1 too.
MY car stereo doesn't have BT so that's not an option for me :/
Unfortunately there is no FM radio yet for Nexus One as it's not supported
Anything that plugs in to your 3.5 mm jack will work just fine, differing quality depending upon price. There are no limitations when it comes to external devices, meaning you can plug anything into your 3.5 mm jack so long as the dongle is not expected to be managed by the device.
i'm still holding out hope that the chip inside our nexus that is capable of transmmiting and receiving gets enabled by update eventually
wesbalmer said:
Anything that plugs in to your 3.5 mm jack will work just fine, differing quality depending upon price. There are no limitations when it comes to external devices, meaning you can plug anything into your 3.5 mm jack so long as the dongle is not expected to be managed by the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had bad experiences with fm transmitters that take audio from the headphone jack...so I would prefer something else
malicious85 said:
i'm still holding out hope that the chip inside our nexus that is capable of transmmiting and receiving gets enabled by update eventually
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly what I'm hoping for
I just use a universal FM transmitter that you plug in the 3.5mm jack, works like a charm. Tried a couple of cheap ones first, but they had seriously lousy range, so I decided to kick it up a notch and bought a Whole House FM transmitter. Works over 50m/150feet away and sound quality is very good, it does cost a bit more than the cheap and lousy ones though. Use it in my car all the time since it doesn't have BT or AUX input.
edit:
Just to add a couple of things which I like about it: It runs on batteries/car charger/normal outlet and is one of the first products I've ever owned that works as good as advertised. I was quite shocked
Motorokr T505
Works awesome.
I bought a cheap FM transmitter to use while I was in Italy, as my rental didn't have the Aux Input functionality that I've grown so used to... Of course, it sounded like ****, so I fixed it. The antenna wire ran the length of the audio input cable... I cut that ***** open and spliced about 12 feet of solid-core wire pulled from a bit of CAT5 onto it, wrapped that around the interior of the car. Works damn well - so well, that I continued to use it after returning home just because it was easier to use than the Aux Input on my head unit :-D
http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Syst...2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1276618259&sr=1-2
i bought this and it works flawlessly
GldRush98 said:
Motorokr T505
Works awesome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks promising...I need to save some bucks for it though
codesplice said:
I bought a cheap FM transmitter to use while I was in Italy, as my rental didn't have the Aux Input functionality that I've grown so used to... Of course, it sounded like ****, so I fixed it. The antenna wire ran the length of the audio input cable... I cut that ***** open and spliced about 12 feet of solid-core wire pulled from a bit of CAT5 onto it, wrapped that around the interior of the car. Works damn well - so well, that I continued to use it after returning home just because it was easier to use than the Aux Input on my head unit :-D
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow Sadly Im not that of a mechanical guy
Zephyron said:
http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Syst...2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1276618259&sr=1-2
i bought this and it works flawlessly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up
I've been using some Belkin one for a few years.. Full FM band in half-channel increments, and pretty easy to modify.. I added a 3.5mm jack to the thing so I can plug in an antenna to it easily. There's also some modification to increase the output, but I did not do that.
And yeah, they still suck.. SNR is low, volume is low, easy to clip the audio going into the transmitter even though it needs the volume almost all the way up because it's not very sensitive, etc...
And you STILL have to change channels on trips, because they're too weak to overpower other stations. This is especially fun on mine since I accidentally broke the LCD adding the antenna wire a few years ago, so I gotta tune the thing blindly.
Aux input is really the only way to have any quality audio... Why this isn't a standard on ALL decks, OEM included, is beyond me. I could buy a $80 CD attachment for my radio which is intended to use with the optional CD player which installs in the trunk but the input is just Aux-in so you can use it with mp3 players etc, but $80 + taking out the radio and installing this thing in a car I don't plan on keeping much longer doesn't seem like a good idea.
I'll be stomping puppies if my next car doesn't have Aux-in though.
I've been using some Belkin one for a few years.. Full FM band in half-channel increments, and pretty easy to modify.. I added a 3.5mm jack to the thing so I can plug in an antenna to it easily. There's also some modification to increase the output, but I did not do that.
And yeah, they still suck.. SNR is low, volume is low, easy to clip the audio going into the transmitter even though it needs the volume almost all the way up because it's not very sensitive, etc...
And you STILL have to change channels on trips, because they're too weak to overpower other stations. This is especially fun on mine since I accidentally broke the LCD adding the antenna wire a few years ago, so I gotta tune the thing blindly.
Aux input is really the only way to have any quality audio... Why this isn't a standard on ALL decks, OEM included, is beyond me. I could buy a $80 CD attachment for my radio which is intended to use with the optional CD player which installs in the trunk but the input is just Aux-in so you can use it with mp3 players etc, but $80 + taking out the radio and installing this thing in a car I don't plan on keeping much longer doesn't seem like a good idea.
I'll be stomping puppies if my next car doesn't have Aux-in though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should've tried the Whole House FM transmitter I mentioned. You can keep it on the same channel all the time as it easily overpowers other stations. The sound quality is also good.
I want to listen to music in my car via bluetooth A2DP. My car's stereo system only has AUX in. So, I am looking for a device to pair with my phone and plug into the aux port for my car's stereo. I don't really care about hands free calling. That'd be a plus, but not necessary.
I've been doing some research and found two that look reasonable.
BlackBerry Remote Stereo Bluetooth Gateway (would require yet another charger)
Kensington LiquidAUX Bluetooth Car Kit
Does anyone here have any experience with these or any recommendations?
If I were you, I would get something like this:
http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs...10551&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665801276
The reason being that it gets pretty good reviews and you would be able to also use it outside of the car if you wanted to.
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Ericsson...1DCM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1288590977&sr=8-1
I am probably going to buy this thing soon, as I have been eying it for a few days now.
If you don't want to charge there are plenty of wire in kits. Check out parrot. They might have a kit that fit s what you want.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
I bought a LiquidAUX and would advise staying away from it unless you like sub par sound quality. The volume is about 75% compared to being plugged directly into my aux port and the quality is like streaming a low quality radio station. For calls I would say it gets the job done "acceptably" but music requires much better fidelity than you'll get from it.
I use the LiquidAUX. I use it to listen to podcasts and have no problem with the sound quality. I did have to buy a ground loop noise filter.
I have the blackberry stero gateway and I use it in my living room, it works fantastic for music.
Just as a follow-up to my original post, I ended up deciding on Satechi Bluetooth Hands-free Car Stereo Fm Transmitter for iPhone 4, 3Gs & 3G and Bluetooth Stereo A2DP supported Devices (available on amazon).
The Satechi device works great! It pairs with the phone quickly and the sound quality is great. This device is exactly what I was looking for. It plugs into the cigarette lighter and has AUX out which I plugged into the stereo in my car. I was a bit worried about noise from the car's engine, but that wasn't a problem. The volume is very slightly lower than plugging the phone directly into the AUX in on my car's stereo. Realistically, that may just be my ears playing tricks on me. It also has a USB port which puts out 5V @ 1000mA for charging USB devices (my Epic).
I didn't use the FM transmitter or the call feature since the only thing I really wanted was the A2DP to AUX.
davidb_ said:
I want to listen to music in my car via bluetooth A2DP. My car's stereo system only has AUX in. So, I am looking for a device to pair with my phone and plug into the aux port for my car's stereo. I don't really care about hands free calling. That'd be a plus, but not necessary.
I've been doing some research and found two that look reasonable.
BlackBerry Remote Stereo Bluetooth Gateway (would require yet another charger)
Kensington LiquidAUX Bluetooth Car Kit
Does anyone here have any experience with these or any recommendations?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What kind of car? I know GM and several others have aftermarket adapters that plug into the factory harness that allow the addition of A2DP in an almost factory style addon.
done12many2 said:
What kind of car? I know GM and several others have aftermarket adapters that plug into the factory harness that allow the addition of A2DP in an almost factory style addon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Subaru. I'm actually planning on switching out the factory stereo for a carputer-type thing in the spring. This is just hold me out until nicer weather.
davidb_, why are you opposed to using the Aux port? Seems like a simpler yet more robust solution.
http://www.scosche.com/products/productID/1919
I was just about to post something about that Scosche one. After doing a bit of searching, it seems to be rated fairly well. I'm considering buying one for my wife's car, so if anyone has any experience with it, I'm curious to hear about some more first hand experience.
I have now used both the Kensington LiquidAUX and the Scosche BTAXS motorMOUTH II and I am wishing there was something that had the best of both. Here are my thoughts on both:
Kensington LiquidAUX
I really like the overall feature set of this solution. The remote is handy to skip past ads in podcasts and to jump back a few seconds when the navigation interrupts what I'm listening to. I also like that it is powered.
What I didn't like is that I had to get a ground loop noise filter (although once I did, the sound was perfect.) Also, there were some connection issues if I was listening with the car off and then started the car due to the interruption of power to the device. The phone never seemed to reconnect in that situation. I would have to turn off the LiquidAUX and turn it back on and wait for it to reconnect. I liked that it has an extra USB port so I could charge the phone if it was low on juice without a separate power adapter but it only charges at 500 mA so really it just kept the phone from dying without really adding extra charge during the drive. The one huge drawback to the LiquidAUX was that people found it difficult to hear me during calls. I usually had to switch the call to speakerphone to have any success. I think the location of the microphone (due to the location of my power port) was the cause of this issue. This is what led me to purchase the Scosche BTAXS.
Scosche BTAXS
There were several things that impressed me with the Scosche BTAXS. I loved the fact that there was no mess of cables. The position of the microphone was much better because it was up at the AUX port of the head unit so I never had any complaints on calls. The sound was great and since it wasn't drawing power from the car I no longer needed the noise filter. Also, Scosche provided many great accessories in the box that other companies might have sold separately.
What I don't like about the Scosche BTAXS is the terrible battery life. I drive about 40 min to work. I cannot use the Scosche BTAXS on both my drive to and from work and leave it in the car overnight and expect it to work the next day. If I drive around on my lunch break, it may not last all day, even when I turn it off when not in use. Scosche does provide a charging cable and car adapter so I can power it during use but that takes away the coolness of not having any cables. It also introduces a little bit of ground loop noise. If I was to run it through the filter I would not be able to position the microphone where I would get the best call quality.
In conclusion, neither of these devices is perfect. The call quality issue of the LiquidAUX is a big drawback that I wish there was a way to overcome. Since there isn’t, I will most likely stick with the Scosche and just make sure I recharge it whenever I am not in the car.
I got this from Buy.com for $20 a few months back. Hopefully you'll find a good deal like that again.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Li..._1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1293177894&sr=1-1
Any update on products for this. I am looking to do this in my 09 jetta through the Aux in, and none of the solutions seem that stellar. Just wanted to see if anyone had found something recently that works great.
I keep looking for a simple BT solution that can give me the best of both worlds. I'm surprised there is no simple BT receiver that can sit behind the dash plugged in to power and aux with a mic out and corded dual mic I can route myself. Liquidaux and motormouth II come close yet miss the mark. A quality mic on the kensington would make for a perfect setup. A remote mic on the motormouth II would be great. Makes zero sense at this stage of the game.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
nice thing
http://www.belkin.com/au/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=530115
Hey everyone, I took a leap of faith and bought the following product from Amazon...it's about $10:
http://a.co/49qKkqH
I'm shocked to say this thing works perfectly in my Mi Mix 2. I'm not an expert on audio but it sounds the same as with the standard included dongle, and the charging seems to work fine too but I think it's limited to 500mA perhaps as a USB-C limitation. I also tested the charge rates with my Axon 7 (which won't allow for audio with this thing, but does allow charging), and it *seems* that this charger works at about 0.5 amps only but at least it will allow for GPS/music, etc. without really bleeding battery power. I was able to keep a slight positive charge with WiFi off, GPS active, screen on low-ish brightness, and music playing (from internal storage...not streaming music) over the phone speakers..albeit only about 50-100 mA...but, the charge percent did slowly go up.
Of course, I'm not sure how long this thing will last...or if there may be some other deficiency with it that I'm not aware of, but so far so good and if you're frustrated by the lack of a headphone jack this may help you...and it's pretty cheap so I guess I'm not too worried.
EDIT: One limitation I just noticed...the microphone on my headset seems not to work during calls (the audio of the caller is fine though)...but the microphone on the phone is fine so you just have to aim your voice into the phone's base. Also, it seems like the controls on my headset don't work either (i.e., volume up/down, etc.). So, I'm not sure if different headsets will yield different results but just wanted to communicate this [apparent] limitation.
EDIT (AGAIN): The button issue/microphone issue seems to be resolved by reversing the orientation of the male USB-C connector. That is, if you only get a headphone and not a full-function headset when you use this, try unplugging the USB-C connector from the phone, flipping it over, and then reconnecting it.
https://www.amazon.com/Wofalodata-H...=1509570567&sr=8-1&keywords=wofalodata+type+c
I have that one, and it works well for charging and playing music.
flyer_andy said:
Hey everyone, I took a leap of faith and bought the following product from Amazon...it's about $10:
http://a.co/49qKkqH
I'm shocked to say this thing works perfectly in my Mi Mix 2. I'm not an expert on audio but it sounds the same as with the standard included dongle, and the charging seems to work fine too but I think it's limited to 500mA perhaps as a USB-C limitation. I also tested the charge rates with my Axon 7 (which won't allow for audio with this thing, but does allow charging), and it *seems* that this charger works at about 0.5 amps only but at least it will allow for GPS/music, etc. without really bleeding battery power. I was able to keep a slight positive charge with WiFi off, GPS active, screen on low-ish brightness, and music playing (from internal storage...not streaming music) over the phone speakers..albeit only about 50-100 mA...but, the charge percent did slowly go up.
Of course, I'm not sure how long this thing will last...or if there may be some other deficiency with it that I'm not aware of, but so far so good and if you're frustrated by the lack of a headphone jack this may help you...and it's pretty cheap so I guess I'm not too worried.
EDIT: One limitation I just noticed...the microphone on my headset seems not to work during calls (the audio of the caller is fine though)...but the microphone on the phone is fine so you just have to aim your voice into the phone's base. Also, it seems like the controls on my headset don't work either (i.e., volume up/down, etc.). So, I'm not sure if different headsets will yield different results but just wanted to communicate this [apparent] limitation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! I was going to to start a thread asking if anyone found one that works.
I have a couple questions about the headphone buttons. Does the play/pause button still work with the combo dongle? Or do none of the buttons work?
Unrelated to the Amazon product, do your headphone buttons work with the Xiaomi dongle? I have a headset with a play/pause button and volume up/down that works perfectly with my Mix but only the play/pause button works correctly on the Mix 2. Are you running stock ROM? I have a feeling my button problems have to do with the fact that my Mix has a MIUI-based ROM and I have a Lineage-based ROM on the Mix 2.
Either way thanks for taking the plunge and sharing.
alose said:
https://www.amazon.com/Wofalodata-H...=1509570567&sr=8-1&keywords=wofalodata+type+c
I have that one, and it works well for charging and playing music.
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Do headphone buttons work with this one? Is charging as slow as the one in the OP?
chimera533 said:
Thanks! I was going to to start a thread asking if anyone found one that works.
I have a couple questions about the headphone buttons. Does the play/pause button still work with the combo dongle? Or do none of the buttons work?
Unrelated to the Amazon product, do your headphone buttons work with the Xiaomi dongle? I have a headset with a play/pause button and volume up/down that works perfectly with my Mix but only the play/pause button works correctly on the Mix 2. Are you running stock ROM? I have a feeling my button problems have to do with the fact that my Mix has a MIUI-based ROM and I have a Lineage-based ROM on the Mix 2.
Either way thanks for taking the plunge and sharing.
Do headphone buttons work with this one? Is charging as slow as the one in the OP?
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Click to collapse
Yes I have the exact same experience with respect to the buttons...when I try the stock dongle, I do get pause/call answer functions but the volume up/down doesn't work. I know that Xiaomi does have their own headphones so maybe you don't get full functionality with non-Xiaomi headphones? Not sure...I'm using Bose headphones, as a reference.
Ok...so something really weird just happened...using the combo dongle I now *do* get phone microphone audio through my headset and also the call button does seem to work, but instead of ending the call it mutes the microphone. Also, the icon in the status bar now shows headset+mic and not just headset...maybe it was a quirk earlier or the headphone was loose or something.
Also, I seem to get much better charge rates with the Mi Mix 2 as opposed to the Axon 7...I'm getting about 1000 mA I think...I've attached a screenshot. It shows around 800 mA but I bet with the screen off you'd get around 1000.
Sorry for lots of inconsistency here! I'll have to keep trying this thing but it does seem that there's hope!
EDIT: Ok I think I figured out the inconsistent operation. I had purchased two of these dongles...one of them appears to have a defect where audio works, but buttons and microphone do not. The headphone jack is tighter on the [half] defective one so maybe there's just a bad connection in there...in any case it looks like there may be some manufacturing QA issues with the dongle which means they may have some inconsistencies between them...maybe it'd be worth buying two or three and and planning on sending back any that aren't needed.
Do headphone buttons work with this one? Is charging as slow as the one in the OP?[/QUOTE]
Fast charging is supported on the Wofalodata, and at least Pause/play works.
I ordered the one in the OP and I'm not impressed. Charging seems to be stuck around 500mA for me. I could live with that. Zero of my headphone buttons work which is less forgivable. But the worst part is it's already falling apart. The headphone jack was so tight that I pulled off the outer sheath while trying to cram my headphones into it. Picture attached. That silver part hanging loose around the wire should be attached to the headphone jack.
I ordered the second adapter from this thread today to see how I like it. Curse Apple for starting the no headphone jack trend.
Edit: I now also get really bad static through my headphones when I have the adapter plugged in to a power source. Before I was using it with a half charged phone. Now my phone is fully charged. That may be the difference.
chimera533 said:
I ordered the one in the OP and I'm not impressed. Charging seems to be stuck around 500mA for me. I could live with that. Zero of my headphone buttons work which is less forgivable. But the worst part is it's already falling apart. The headphone jack was so tight that I pulled off the outer sheath while trying to cram my headphones into it. Picture attached. That silver part hanging loose around the wire should be attached to the headphone jack.
I ordered the second adapter from this thread today to see how I like it. Curse Apple for starting the no headphone jack trend.
Edit: I now also get really bad static through my headphones when I have the adapter plugged in to a power source. Before I was using it with a half charged phone. Now my phone is fully charged. That may be the difference.
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Yeah mine does the static noise if it's sitting at 100% charge too...best to unplug at that point if possible though I agree that's annoying.
Sorry to hear the silver part fell off...one of my adapters is a bit tight on the 3.5mm jack too but it has gotten better with use.
As far as the buttons - I think I've discovered the issue. It's totally bizarre...but...it seems that if I insert the USB-C male end in with the metal seam upward (i.e., so that the headphone jack is on the left side) the buttons work as expected (as does the microphone). In case you just want headphone functionality, the adapter can be flipped/inserted where the 3.5mm jack is on the right side of the USB-C port...the phone's speakerphone mic appears to pick up audio for calls in this use case but it actually is useful when I'm using my car's AUX port as I can make better calls way. Here's a video:
Thank you! It does matter how you plug it in. For me it's actually the opposite. I need to plug it in with the seam facing the back of the phone (headphone jack on right) to get my play/pause working. None of the other buttons work but I wasn't expecting them to.
I also get a slight hiss when the phone isn't at 100% charge and like you said a horrible static noise when plugged in at 100%. But I think I can deal with that.
I think now I can at least superglue the sheath back on and get some use out of it.
chimera533 said:
Thank you! It does matter how you plug it in. For me it's actually the opposite. I need to plug it in with the seam facing the back of the phone (headphone jack on right) to get my play/pause working. None of the other buttons work but I wasn't expecting them to.
I also get a slight hiss when the phone isn't at 100% charge and like you said a horrible static noise when plugged in at 100%. But I think I can deal with that.
I think now I can at least superglue the sheath back on and get some use out of it.
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Sweet! How odd! Yeah definitely not the best-built accessory but so far it does seem to work...I hope at some point a more reputable producer makes something like this as it's a great idea but like you pointed out...not-so-perfect implementation. I will keep in mind your experience with that sheath coming off though...now I know to be super careful with that connection!
And I totally agree on the whole killing the headphone jack thing...really really aggravated with that development myself...it seems the OEMs are driving the marketplace whereas it should be the other way around.
flyer_andy said:
Sweet! How odd! Yeah definitely not the best-built accessory but so far it does seem to work...I hope at some point a more reputable producer makes something like this as it's a great idea but like you pointed out...not-so-perfect implementation. I will keep in mind your experience with that sheath coming off though...now I know to be super careful with that connection!
And I totally agree on the whole killing the headphone jack thing...really really aggravated with that development myself...it seems the OEMs are driving the marketplace whereas it should be the other way around.
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This one works, I have this one I use while in bed with headphones and charging, Doesn't fast charge, but it's not really slow either.
Its made of metal and the cables are braided, Its good quality.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Typ...-3-5mm-Jack-Audio-Earphone-Y/32832185514.html
I have an alternative solution. I'm beyond impressed with these things for how much they cost. Good sound, good battery life, and good comfort. They don't ever drop connection either. I used to hate on BT headphones until I got these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VVL4WJZ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So I finally connected my new GM-specific Eonon-branded MTCE_WWW (GA9180A - made by Klyde, I believe) Android 8 unit in-car (was testing "on the bench") and oh my god - that little external warning chime speaker is absolutely horrible! I don't understand how they can spend so much time getting these things to work in car and then do such a piss-poor job on the little speaker that produces warning chimes and turn-signal sounds! Typically, these sounds come out of the cars speakers (with stock or higher-quality plug-and-play units).
Surely, there is some way to improve upon this?? Does anyone know if this little speaker is amplified or of it's just a simple speaker in a plastic case? I don't want to tear it apart just in case I decide to return the unit (I really don't want to, but this little speaker may be a deal-breaker). Not only does it sound absolutley horrible, but I'm also getting some sort of interference noice on it - even when the car isn't running. I think the interference noise is coming from the FM antenna adapter, the wifi antenna or CANBUS box - they are all in the same general area, so it's hard to tell which one is causing it.
Anyone have any info on these little speakers? I would love to use a higher-quality speaker if that would help (maybe even with a volume dial to control the volume of the chimes?). Only 2 wires going to the speaker, so I'm assuming it's just a regular un-amplified speaker. Will see if I can hook up another speaker to see what happens.
I did a few searches and didn't find much, but will keep searching - just figured I'd ask at the same time.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for sharing.
Yes, the sound from chime speaker is horrible especially for turn-signal. But I don't think it is speaker fault and indeed it is caused by CanBox code. I used some good quality speaker to test chime sound and I got the same horrible sound.
And for noise, in my case it is from WIFI activity I believe and I will live with it because it is hard to notice when music is on.
Had the same experience with a unit I just installed in my girlfriend's mini cooper which is a shame because mini/bmw has some pretty cool and iconic door chimes, notifications, and blinker noises.
I ordered an Axcess branded wire harness adapter box that I will wire up just the can-bus and power leads to to retain the sounds from its little speaker but I had another idea. The dash has plenty of available space inside, I may install the factory head unit single-din component to the can-bus wires and power and then a decent PA loudspeaker under the dash to the unit's driver door output to make up for the lack of those tones.
I installed my unit but I did not install this speaker at first
I think I do not need it
Quick fix
The speaker seemed distorted in my (px6, android, dasaita, Chevy Cruze 2011). After some testing I landed on a 8ohm resistor on the positive speaker cable between the speaker and the connector to the head-unit. The resistor wil consume the power and transfer it into head. And the speaker sounds way better now. For obvious reasons the volume is also lower now. And so far I like it.
Has anyone figured how how to change the door chime / blinker signal/ warning sounds ?