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Car Dock disassembly - adding a LINE OUT

So I got my car dock, I knew it didn't come with a line out, but figured I could add one. You all know how aewsome it would be to have a line out jack on this thing rather than the stock "speakers". Well good news, I am going to make myself a line out and will post pictures about how I am doing it.
I have the thing taken apart right now, and just need to go buy a 3.5mm audio jack.
So, my plan will be to still use the cardock for phone and stereo profiles, just using my car stereo's aux in rather than the dock's weak speakers. I'll leave the microphones on the dock intact, just not the speakers. The good news is the speakers are removable, making room for a 3.5mm audio jack. the bad news? the jack will have to be on the dock body, not base. I'm sure if you try hard enough, one of yoiu will find a place in the base for a jack, but for now, I'm going to add one to the body, on the bottom (in portrait mode).
There you have it, I'll be able to make the dock a semi-permanent fixture in my car and never have to plug in an audio cable to get my music through my car speakers.
Pictures to follow soon, I just couldn't wait to start this project, and get some reactions / moral support.

Someone else looked at doing the same thing a while back. I seem to recall they came up against several hurdles. It is not as clear cut as it seems.
On the face of it- it would seem the approach you are taking will necessitate you having your car stereo ON and AUX selected any time you need to take a phone call. Might be a bit of a pain when you are for example, listening to the car radio and your phone rings. Or if the phone rings and your stereo happens to be turned off.
I find the inbuilt speakers totally adequate for Phone Audio. This arrangement has the benefit it being standalone and means N1 Phone Audio works regardless of current car stereo state. I send the Media Audio to my car stereo via BT though, as it sure benefits from the better speakers quality and auto pauses the Media when the phone is in use.
Good luck with it and do a search for the other thread as there is some good info info in there.
PS take a look through this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=6427057&postcount=39
Might save you some heart ache

I only found that thread, after i had my dock quite disassembled and did a google search for the chipset under the RF shield. :/
I don't use my car's head unit for anything but aux audio, radio is dead to me, so I shouldn't have any problems. The hurdle is the audio being fed to the speakers do NOT share a common ground. They utilize an active-balanced system. both leads are hot, common to themselves.
Now it seems as I will have to choose which channel gets full audio and just bum 'common' from the dominant channel. or i come up with some way to convert two independent balanced audio feeds to a common ground.
I have had no luck looking up the NF2301 daughter board. I was hoping to find a schematic detailing the line level outputs, but no go. I did think it was interesting that the car dock and desktop dock share the same PCB, too bad there is no detailed schematic yet...

FAILURE - giving up
So, after creatively placing some resistors and whatnot, I got a decent line level with common ground, that won't blow up the built-in amp. However, as pointed out in that other thread, there is some BS DSP that notches the lower frequencies out of the signal to the speakers. I got it all setup in my car, plugged in to my aux-out, and it sounded like i was using the voice profile. I took the aux cable and plugged into my headphone jack on the phone, and all the bass came through just fine.
So, for now? The audio out on the car dock is meant for the crappy on-board speakers. not real ones. Sad...
Now, it seems the only way to get an aux out of the cardock would be to swap the board with a desktop dock, and cut a hole for the aux jack, or just do some more soldering to not modify the casing of the cardock.
Too bad, I had it working, but the damn DSP chip/amp puts out ****ty audio quality

Alternatively, at the point you have a desktop dock.... Instead of butchering it for the board, Just install it somewhere out of site in your car and connect it to your cars Aux-in with a 3.5mm lead. Thats what I have done. Works well. Only downside is I still have to manually connect the desktop. It does not autoconnect to deskdock when N1 is placed in cardock obviously.
Too bad your set up did not work for now.

kajer said:
So, after creatively placing some resistors and whatnot, I got a decent line level with common ground, that won't blow up the built-in amp. However, as pointed out in that other thread, there is some BS DSP that notches the lower frequencies out of the signal to the speakers. I got it all setup in my car, plugged in to my aux-out, and it sounded like i was using the voice profile. I took the aux cable and plugged into my headphone jack on the phone, and all the bass came through just fine.
So, for now? The audio out on the car dock is meant for the crappy on-board speakers. not real ones. Sad...
Now, it seems the only way to get an aux out of the cardock would be to swap the board with a desktop dock, and cut a hole for the aux jack, or just do some more soldering to not modify the casing of the cardock.
Too bad, I had it working, but the damn DSP chip/amp puts out ****ty audio quality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe it's using a low bitrate A2DP bluetooth transfer. Either way, bluetooth will be lower quality than a direct plug.

khaytsus said:
Either way, bluetooth will be lower quality than a direct plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe this is the likely reason why Google didn't include an audio out port on the dock. Yes, it's on the desktop dock, but that's really all the desktop dock handles, whereas the car dock has a mic as well, etc.

I would be interested in detailed disassembly instructions if you wouldn't mind.

wonkotron said:
I would be interested in detailed disassembly instructions if you wouldn't mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
detail isn't really necessary, it's pretty straightforward.
-get a knife and use it to peel off the black rectangular sticker on the front of the dock. it's right where the battery on the phone is when it's docked.
-undo the 4 screws behind the sticker
-pop the two halves of the phone-holder part of the dock apart. if you can't get them apart with a bit of pulling get your thumb nail or a knife in between the two halves.
that's about as far as you need to go to get to the useful bits.

jamezracer said:
Stuff
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! I'll see if I can figure anything out.

I had this same idea when I first got my car dock, but I couldn't convince myself to hack my new dock. Instead I hacked an old stereo Bluetooth headset with the same mod and it works perfectly.

Don't ignore this post...
Ok So I took a dive in to it. I disassembled my dock (yes even after reading all that I could find on the internet, including this thread), but in disbelief I wanted to find out for my self. I soldered a head phone jack to the speaker wires, and thought I had something good when connected to my computer speakers. (it worked and I was surprised). But after hooking it all up in the car and actually hearing the quality, I was sorrily disappointed.
Major failure, the sound is terrible. Not tolerable at all. Comparable to scratching fingernails across a chalk board and trying to listen to some good tunes at the same time from an FM radio with very poor reception.
Heed my warning, do not attempt to mod the dock for an FM out, it will not work.

Issues with head phone jack

So I have had issues with the head phone jack on two different thunderbolts.
When I plug in the head phones if the plug turns clockwise or counter clockwise at certain points I will lose sound from the left head phone. Same thing happens if you gently push the plug to the right.
I also tested headphones on the models verizon has on display and it did it on those too.
(note, I tried 3 different sets of head phones). This is really bothersome to me because if its in your pocket sometimes the plug gets nudged or turned).
Anyone else experience this? Not sure if I should attempt to exchange yet again.

Mine was working fine for a while but then my left side of ear buds went out. But then I plugged my ear buds into my PC. Turns out the Ear buds went bad. Skullcandy breaks way too easy...Phone is Fine though. just Coincidence I guess.

Strife21 said:
So I have had issues with the head phone jack on two different thunderbolts.
When I plug in the head phones if the plug turns clockwise or counter clockwise at certain points I will lose sound from the left head phone. Same thing happens if you gently push the plug to the right.
I also tested headphones on the models verizon has on display and it did it on those too.
(note, I tried 3 different sets of head phones). This is really bothersome to me because if its in your pocket sometimes the plug gets nudged or turned).
Anyone else experience this? Not sure if I should attempt to exchange yet again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I discovered this same exact problem the other day and here's what I've found. I have 2 sets of headphones, 1 works perfectly fine and the other exhibits this same problem with the left ear going out. For the bad set, if I have them plugged in all the way then I have the problem, but if I pull it up a tiny bit after I've plugged them in it works fine. I don't know if there is a tiny difference in the length of the connectors or what but they just don't work when plugged in all the way. I figure I'll goto the hardware store and find a tiny little bushing and just put it on the headphone connector so it doesn't plug in all the way.

ikon8 said:
I discovered this same exact problem the other day and here's what I've found. I have 2 sets of headphones, 1 works perfectly fine and the other exhibits this same problem with the left ear going out. For the bad set, if I have them plugged in all the way then I have the problem, but if I pull it up a tiny bit after I've plugged them in it works fine. I don't know if there is a tiny difference in the length of the connectors or what but they just don't work when plugged in all the way. I figure I'll goto the hardware store and find a tiny little bushing and just put it on the headphone connector so it doesn't plug in all the way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not a bad idea my friend

im having the same exact issue as you. i need to experiment with it more before i swap it out

jacobk said:
im having the same exact issue as you. i need to experiment with it more before i swap it out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also posted on the androidforums about this. Apparently it seems fairly common. I have exchanged my phone once for this issue and the new one came back the same way. I dont know if its a bad batch of phones or what. Even some of the display models did it at the store so it seems like a crap shoot.
The best thing to do would be call verizon support at this point I think and let them know its an issue so it becomes a known issue with them. They told me today that they haven't heard anything about this incident.

Same issue here. I noticed it when i had it plugged into my aux cable in my truck. Also, I don't know if its related but playing pandora over my speakers results in a really high pitched "click" from time to time. I never experience it when just my headphones are plugged in nor when i am using winamp.

I also have this problem - also the left speaker that gets cut out. I can either try to force the jack further in, pull it out a bit, or move it around until the connection is made. These are with UE TripleFi 10's.

I have the same problem.
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

So verizon sent me a new phone and it does not have the issue the other two phones exhibited. It seems there are a bad batch of these headphone jacks. I suggest calling Verizon and letting them know that you are having an issue if its bothering you, so they at least recognize that there are quite a few people having the issue.

If the Thunderbolt's headphone jack is anything like my other smartphones, the reason you're having problems with your headphones is because you're not using the proper kind. Look at the picture on
http://www.appleinsider.com/articles/09/02/12/macbook_owners_frustrated_by_new_audio_jacks.html
Regular earphones have 3 metal bands separated by two nonmetal strips, whereas headphones for phones oftentimes have 4 metal bands separated by three nonmetal strips. This means if you're using a three-banded headphone into a four-banded jack, the contacts don't properly align.
The reason for this is simple: the headphone jack also serves as a jack for a microphone/earpiece.
I have a special set of stereo headphones that also have a microphone so if I'm listening to music and get a call, I can answer without having to unplug.
Hope that helps.

nerozehl said:
If the Thunderbolt's headphone jack is anything like my other smartphones, the reason you're having problems with your headphones is because you're not using the proper kind. Look at the picture on
http://www.appleinsider.com/articles/09/02/12/macbook_owners_frustrated_by_new_audio_jacks.html
Regular earphones have 3 metal bands separated by two nonmetal strips, whereas headphones for phones oftentimes have 4 metal bands separated by three nonmetal strips. This means if you're using a three-banded headphone into a four-banded jack, the contacts don't properly align.
The reason for this is simple: the headphone jack also serves as a jack for a microphone/earpiece.
I have a special set of stereo headphones that also have a microphone so if I'm listening to music and get a call, I can answer without having to unplug.
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is not the issue as the new phone has no problem with my 3 banded head phones work just great now. There is a defect in some of the inputs. And most high quality head phones such as etymonics and shures do not have the 4 banded design.
The description you mentioned does not support the anomaly that is happening, sound does not travel through one headphone nothing gets re routed the speakers on the actual phone.
Although this is very useful post it does not explain why the head phones now work perfectly as they did on some of the other TB's at the verizon store.
I also have post on android forums about this matter.

Strife21 said:
So I have had issues with the head phone jack on two different thunderbolts.
When I plug in the head phones if the plug turns clockwise or counter clockwise at certain points I will lose sound from the left head phone. Same thing happens if you gently push the plug to the right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same thing happen to me. I originally purchased mine on release day, they tested it with one of theirs and it didn't do it, so they gladly exchanged it for another one.

nerozehl said:
If the Thunderbolt's headphone jack is anything like my other smartphones, the reason you're having problems with your headphones is because you're not using the proper kind. Look at the picture on
http://www.appleinsider.com/articles/09/02/12/macbook_owners_frustrated_by_new_audio_jacks.html
Regular earphones have 3 metal bands separated by two nonmetal strips, whereas headphones for phones oftentimes have 4 metal bands separated by three nonmetal strips. This means if you're using a three-banded headphone into a four-banded jack, the contacts don't properly align.
The reason for this is simple: the headphone jack also serves as a jack for a microphone/earpiece.
I have a special set of stereo headphones that also have a microphone so if I'm listening to music and get a call, I can answer without having to unplug.
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This makes loads of sense thanks I was having the same issue.
Sent from my ADR6400L using XDA Premium App

no issue with it here

This is going to sound like an odd solution and I may catch some flack for it but here it goes: Go to the auto parts store and buy spark plug Jelly. It has the unique quality of being able to transfer electric current hence no more losing audio L or R. I did this on my D1 and it worked perfectly. Just a tip; don't use a ton less is more.

stedrocklp said:
This is going to sound like an odd solution and I may catch some flack for it but here it goes: Go to the auto parts store and buy spark plug Jelly. It has the unique quality of being able to transfer electric current hence no more losing audio L or R. I did this on my D1 and it worked perfectly. Just a tip; don't use a ton less is more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While that would help the connection, I can't say I would ever recommend it. It's going to be a dust collector, and nearly impossible to clean out. It is better suited on the spark plug because the plug is covered and sealed for most of its life.
Also, it can make a short between two of the connections, spark plugs only have one connection where the jelly goes.
Sent from my ADR6400L using XDA App

Ok those are good points. What I do know from experience is that it did work on my D1 and I never seemed to have an issue with dust but that might have been because the case I used plugged the headphone jack. So.... I will repeal my suggestion; don't use spark plug jelly.

nerozehl said:
If the Thunderbolt's headphone jack is anything like my other smartphones, the reason you're having problems with your headphones is because you're not using the proper kind. Look at the picture on
http://www.appleinsider.com/articles/09/02/12/macbook_owners_frustrated_by_new_audio_jacks.html
Regular earphones have 3 metal bands separated by two nonmetal strips, whereas headphones for phones oftentimes have 4 metal bands separated by three nonmetal strips. This means if you're using a three-banded headphone into a four-banded jack, the contacts don't properly align.
The reason for this is simple: the headphone jack also serves as a jack for a microphone/earpiece.
I have a special set of stereo headphones that also have a microphone so if I'm listening to music and get a call, I can answer without having to unplug.
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this post is wrong. im having the issues and ive been using headphones with a mic and music controls since day 1. the issue is with the jack, not with the type of headphones being used. ive tried 5 different sets of headphones and they all exhibit the same issue.

jacobk said:
this post is wrong. im having the issues and ive been using headphones with a mic and music controls since day 1. the issue is with the jack, not with the type of headphones being used. ive tried 5 different sets of headphones and they all exhibit the same issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree with you, it should have nothing to do with having a mic, as the same exact pair of head phones I used ( 3 ring) that did not work on the older phone now work perfectly on the new phone.

Anyone have headphone jack issues?

I hook up my phone to my auxiliary in my car and when it's fully plugged in, it only works with one speaker. Same happened when I used headphones as well. If I twist the aux cable a little, I can get it to work somewhat but it's very annoying because pretty much any movement causes it to go back to one speaker. Definitely an annoying issue especially while trying to use my phone as a music player as well. This happen to anyone else? Any type of fix for this?

I have the same exact issues. I don't believe there is a fix without opening the phone up. I have heard of others having the same issues but I haven't done any research on it.

I definitely thought I read about other ppl having this issue when the phone first launched. Also vaguely remember a thread about it too. But thanks for replying and def not opening my phone lol. It'll become a $300 paper weight

I had this issue as well. It was a problem from the first time i ever plugged headphones in. I thought i was going to have to send it back. It went on for weeks. Turns out, I didnt have them plugged all the way in even though i thought i did. I had to push much harder for them to go all the way in. I felt stupid. Work great now lol. Not saying that you have this problem. Just giving my experience.

Samsung uses a metric variation on thier male headphone jack. The actual female phono jack on the device is for 1/8" connectors. For some reason headphone/line cables are coming out in a metric size that the manufacturers claim is compatible with a true 1/8" jack and they are, but they are slightly undersized than a true 1/8" jack which can cause a loose connection resulting in channels not working properly.
The tip is also slightly modified on the metric male jacks causing that "not fully inserted issue".
Stick with good name cables/headphones with true 1/8" plugs, and that will stop alot of issues that may arise.
Sent from my VZW GS3 running Synergy/Trinity/Dark Horse Rises

My son works for verizon and has a GS3 also and he says try shutting off voice commands if you have them on. They cause issues with the head phone jack sometimes.
Settings/language and imput/voice command for apps.

incubus26jc said:
I had this issue as well. It was a problem from the first time i ever plugged headphones in. I thought i was going to have to send it back. It went on for weeks. Turns out, I didnt have them plugged all the way in even though i thought i did. I had to push much harder for them to go all the way in. I felt stupid. Work great now lol. Not saying that you have this problem. Just giving my experience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will try this next time I can and the other suggestions next time I'm in my car. Just don't want to jam it too far in though and end up breaking it lol. Too bad my cars blue tooth audio doesn't work because then this issue would be solved for most of my audio uses

Exact same problem here. Started within the first week of owning the phone. Cant plug it in any further. I think its a bad jack as every 3.5 mm connector ive tried including the one that came with the phone has the same problem. Found this on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Flex-Ca...051?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d3950c8b Im guessing it will fix the problem but I am waiting to see if its more reliable then what shipped with the phone. I plugged mine in daily at least 5 times. Just using bluetooth now got a belkin bluetooth adapator for 25 from amazon that is tied in with a fm modulator from amazon for 14. A hack on a hack but it works. Not the best audio fidelity but good enough.

I've only been recently using my headphones with this phone, though they have worked fine. That final click for a positive stereo connection is more tough than one might expect for a portable device, but it's quite secure feeling.
With my Sennheiser PX-100 portables, there's no connection problem with this phone and balance between the speakers seems good. The connection needs to be made fully, pushed down flush with the phone edge and any phone protector needs to lie out of range of the connector, IMHO.
I then tested with my over-the-ear cans, but purposefully using a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter whose 1/8" connector was bent, and noticed a slight left channel bias. The bent adapter did seem to have a problem getting 100% into the jack, as well - still, it was pretty much all the way in with only the slightest bit of lift on one side.
So, I would agree with the poster above who mentioned that - if there are differences between your headphone's male connector and the type they happen to use in this phone - even a slight difference in connector vs jack size could cause an issue for playback.
If all male connectors give problems, I guess the possibilities are:
a. Male connector is not being inserted 100% flush to the phone edge
b. Phone cover is interfering with the connector being 100% inserted
c. Bad phone jack or downstream connection
- ooofest

Pushing it in all the way is not always the fix.. Cant push any of the several headsets I tried in any further. Bad jack add insult to injury the factory charger that came with the phone mysteriously just died wtf .

chickenmon said:
Pushing it in all the way is not always the fix.. Cant push any of the several headsets I tried in any further. Bad jack add insult to injury the factory charger that came with the phone mysteriously just died wtf .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it won't push in such that the male connector's body is flush with the phone edge, then it is either a bad jack on the phone to begin with (your guess) or all your connectors are somehow incompatible with the new size of jack this phone uses, it would seem.
You're saying the wall charger just died? Might be a warranty on that from Verizon, I'd go to a store or give them a call.
- ooofest

Galaxy s3 headphone jack temp fix
I've had the same problem, tried buying a new cable but audio would only play from one channel
Today playing about I noticed if I pressed the jack slightly to one side it would work, so simple solution, I've bent the metal end of the jack ever so slightly and now it works like a charm with my galaxy s3. No more endlessly messing about playing withthe cable till iit works. Now I say again, vend the jack end slightly till it works, not too much else it might not plug in at all. Hope this helps people out!! Mark

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I also have exactly the same problem in my car. I have a 3.5mm audio cable which worked fine for the first few weeks and then all of a sudden it stopped playing through the left speaker. At the same time, I also have crackling connection issues when I plug my S3 into a speaker in the kitchen. Headphones seem to work fine though.
It's almost as if some static caused a fault inside the female jack on the S3 given that it worked perfectly for ages and then all the problems came at once.
I tried disabling the voice commands as someone noted above (they were annoying me anyway) and it seemed to make a difference to the crackling but not the reception out of the left speaker - its still very low volume.
I was interested in the post from the guy who said there was a slight difference between 1/8 and 3.5 mm. Which way around is it? The cables I have all claim to be 3.5mm, so are you saying that the S3 has a 1/8th female jack?
I wonder also if there is a 3.5mm to 1/8 inch converter that would do the job. A quick google search didn't throw anything up though.

Audio Issues with Charger Plugged In

Hey guys,
I've heard all about the audio issues people have been having with output through an AUX cable and I have yet to test that. However, I have another issues where noise/hissing is introduced when I have headphones in and the charger is plugged in. It's especially prominent when not playing audio, but still having the headphones plugged in. I believe it is something to do with the poor grounding of the 3.5mm jack, so I am currently contemplating returning this device.
I was wondering if any of you guys can reproduce this issue or did I get a bad unit?

crazililazn said:
Hey guys,
I've heard all about the audio issues people have been having with output through an AUX cable and I have yet to test that. However, I have another issues where noise/hissing is introduced when I have headphones in and the charger is plugged in. It's especially prominent when not playing audio, but still having the headphones plugged in. I believe it is something to do with the poor grounding of the 3.5mm jack, so I am currently contemplating returning this device.
I was wondering if any of you guys can reproduce this issue or did I get a bad unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be poor grounding on the jack, but more likely is the Charger is introducing noise into the phone itself. lowerend chargers have this problem more often than others, or it could be something else plugged into your power strip per say. Since the phone has no "real" grounding to "earth" all noise from your outlet ie house also flows through the device.
I did a lot of research on this with my Skyrocket cause it was annoying to have that hum... ended up buying a grounding powerstrip to fix it. hope this helps a little..

Tweakecho said:
Could be poor grounding on the jack, but more likely is the Charger is introducing noise into the phone itself. lowerend chargers have this problem more often than others, or it could be something else plugged into your power strip per say. Since the phone has no "real" grounding to "earth" all noise from your outlet ie house also flows through the device.
I did a lot of research on this with my Skyrocket cause it was annoying to have that hum... ended up buying a grounding powerstrip to fix it. hope this helps a little..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have tried with the LG charger and the charger that came with my S3 and both cause noise in the G3. Although I haven't tested it with a grounded powerstrip, I have never had this issue on my Galaxy S3. What I have tested is plugging in the charger to a powerstrip and an outlet in the wall and both cause the noise in the G3.
If you have a G3, are you able to reproduce this issue with yours?

crazililazn said:
I have tried with the LG charger and the charger that came with my S3 and both cause noise in the G3. Although I haven't tested it with a grounded powerstrip, I have never had this issue on my Galaxy S3. What I have tested is plugging in the charger to a powerstrip and an outlet in the wall and both cause the noise in the G3.
If you have a G3, are you able to reproduce this issue with yours?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay so i just used like 4 chargers, 3 sets of buds and 1 set of over ear headphones and 2 outlets. I can't get my G3 to make any noises what so ever except the slight hiss (only while playing music) with the over the ear headphones, but from what i read elsewhere i think it might have something to do with the in-line volume control.

Tweakecho said:
Okay so i just used like 4 chargers, 3 sets of buds and 1 set of over ear headphones and 2 outlets. I can't get my G3 to make any noises what so ever except the slight hiss (only while playing music) with the over the ear headphones, but from what i read elsewhere i think it might have something to do with the in-line volume control.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, that probably means that I got a bad unit then. I have tried with a set of of Beyerdynamic DT770s, my stock S3 earbuds, and Klipsch S3 earbuds. Since the DT770s have a higher impedance (80 ohms), I hear practically no noise. However, I hear a ton of noise with both of the earbuds. You think I should go get a replacement?

crazililazn said:
Hmm, that probably means that I got a bad unit then. I have tried with a set of of Beyerdynamic DT770s, my stock S3 earbuds, and Klipsch S3 earbuds. Since the DT770s have a higher impedance (80 ohms), I hear practically no noise. However, I hear a ton of noise with both of the earbuds. You think I should go get a replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't know your set up but i would take it buy the store and ask to "test" it on another unit and see... something seems amiss for sure..

Tweakecho said:
Don't know your set up but i would take it buy the store and ask to "test" it on another unit and see... something seems amiss for sure..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I notice that the noises become more prominent whenever I do something with the touchscreen. Definitely seems like a grounding issue with the phone itself... Can you try your test again and see if your phone makes electrical noises when using the touchscreen?

Kill your pains. 2 in 1 Hi Res Audio + PD Fast Charging adapter By Soulsound

Everyone knows normal 3.5mm audio adapter are not fit for Essential phone due to DAC chipset required. But when you are listening to music, you cannot charge your phone.
Now i recommend a 2 in 1 adapter for you!
What's special?
1. Hi-Res sound quality with a qualified DAC - 96KHz/24 Bits
2. Max 3A PD fast charging
3. You can do 1+2 above at the same time
Here is link for you:
https://amzn.to/2mi2BXL
You will never stop the movie/game on your Essential and pull off the headphone, put on the power and continue with a speaker again.

Thanks for sharing , I ordered one and it works

I'd like to see a video review and some photos of this if possible, the way this post was written sounds like an advertisement of your own product, or a product you got for free from the manufacturer (no offense). Also wondering if it's fully USB-C spec compliant so there won't be any voltage issues when using it.
Edit: Looking at OP's past posts, he is the seller.

@Teclover Bill send me one to review

Blazekitten said:
Thanks for sharing , I ordered one and it works
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Good to know!

Gamernivek said:
I'd like to see a video review and some photos of this if possible, the way this post was written sounds like an advertisement of your own product, or a product you got for free from the manufacturer (no offense). Also wondering if it's fully USB-C spec compliant so there won't be any voltage issues when using it.
Edit: Looking at OP's past posts, he is the seller.
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Happy to tell you, i developed this product, but sell by my friend.
I am open to collect all issues to improve it and listen to public what else they need.
Due to this product needs to be different with normal 2 in 1 usb c adapter (without DAC), the inside design is different. That's why all other 2 in 1 adapters cannot work with external DAC required phones, except for Moshi's. They are totally 2 different stories standing on development point.
For normal usb c adapters, the resistor lays in usb c end, however for this kind of adapters, the components have to put on the motherboard. That is to say, the motherboard will take all the risks and devices won't. The motherboard is 3 inch away from your phone, the heat won't affect the phone.
For voltage issue you are concerning, 5V comes out from power supply all the way, 2A charging into phone. One thing i have to mention: use original power supply to charge!
You are welcome to ask other users from another thread below who got this adapter!
https://forum.xda-developers.com/pixel-2/accessories/finally-pixel-2-xl-audio-pd-charging-2-t3807588

TheRealKingSen said:
@Teclover Bill send me one to review
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I am happy to. Check the message box.

Teclover Bill said:
Happy to tell you, i developed this product, but sell by my friend.
I am open to collect all issues to improve it and listen to public what else they need.
Due to this product needs to be different with normal 2 in 1 usb c adapter (without DAC), the inside design is different. That's why all other 2 in 1 adapters cannot work with external DAC required phones, except for Moshi's. They are totally 2 different stories standing on development point.
For normal usb c adapters, the resistor lays in usb c end, however for this kind of adapters, the components have to put on the motherboard. That is to say, the motherboard will take all the risks and devices won't. The motherboard is 3 inch away from your phone, the heat won't affect the phone.
For voltage issue you are concerning, 5V comes out from power supply all the way, 2A charging into phone. One thing i have to mention: use original power supply to charge!
You are welcome to ask other users from another thread below who got this adapter!
https://forum.xda-developers.com/pixel-2/accessories/finally-pixel-2-xl-audio-pd-charging-2-t3807588
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Click to collapse
I actually purchased it to test it out. Audio quality is definitely better than the included 48kHz adapter, but I'm running into a problem with it right out of the box. There's a pulsing clicking/popping noise that can occasionally be heard at a low volume in quarter second intervals when headphones are plugged into the adapter and you're on a screen with no sound playing (volume of the phone has no bearing on this) There's also some static when switching between screens with no sound. The OEM 3.5mm adapter doesn't have these problems. Also, the clicking/popping noise can also be heard when the adapter is plugged plugged into the wall with USB-C but not plugged into the phone. So it doesn't really matter where it's plugged into, but if there's a power source, the noise is heard. I'm thinking mine may have been a dud, but would like to hear from you or the seller on wether or not this is a normal occurrence. Sent an email to your friend, the seller, yesterday, waiting for him/her to get back to me now regarding getting a possible replacement.

Gamernivek said:
I actually purchased it to test it out. Audio quality is definitely better than the included 48kHz adapter, but I'm running into a problem with it right out of the box. There's a pulsing clicking/popping noise that can occasionally be heard at a low volume in quarter second intervals when headphones are plugged into the adapter and you're on a screen with no sound playing (volume of the phone has no bearing on this) There's also some static when switching between screens with no sound. The OEM 3.5mm adapter doesn't have these problems. Also, the clicking/popping noise can also be heard when the adapter is plugged plugged into the wall with USB-C but not plugged into the phone. So it doesn't really matter where it's plugged into, but if there's a power source, the noise is heard. I'm thinking mine may have been a dud, but would like to hear from you or the seller on wether or not this is a normal occurrence. Sent an email to your friend, the seller, yesterday, waiting for him/her to get back to me now regarding getting a possible replacement.
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In order to improve it, I'hv asked my friend to send you a replacement, cost on me.
Your problem should not happen, lets see how the replacement works.
I suggest below plugging steps:
1. plug the wall charger to adapter
2. plug the adapter to phone
3. plug headphone to adapter
waiting for your report on replacement.

Teclover Bill said:
In order to improve it, I'hv asked my friend to send you a replacement, cost on me.
Your problem should not happen, lets see how the replacement works.
I suggest below plugging steps:
1. plug the wall charger to adapter
2. plug the adapter to phone
3. plug headphone to adapter
waiting for your report on replacement.
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Thanks! I'll try that from here on out. I realized I used the wrong words to describe the noise in my last post, the sound is actually more like a digital beep. It doesn't sound like distortion (well, the static when switching screens does), but more like something you'd hear from an error message popup in rapid succession.
The product you developed is very good other than this though. The audio quality is better than the OEM adapter and charging is fast. I'm excited to use this as a part of my daily routine!
I did have some observations regarding the design though if you'll hear me out - especially in regards to the cable you used. The cable is very flexible, which may make it more comfortable to use, but I have doubts on how well it can hold up. In my experience, the thiner and less rigid the cable, the more likely it is to fail. If the cable was more rigid and half the length it may hold up longer. I'm sure you have done more testing than I have in this regard though, so after a few months of use I could give you some better findings.

Gamernivek said:
Thanks! I'll try that from here on out. I realized I used the wrong words to describe the noise in my last post, the sound is actually more like a digital beep. It doesn't sound like distortion (well, the static when switching screens does), but more like something you'd hear from an error message popup in rapid succession.
The product you developed is very good other than this though. The audio quality is better than the OEM adapter and charging is fast. I'm excited to use this as a part of my daily routine!
I did have some observations regarding the design though if you'll hear me out - especially in regards to the cable you used. The cable is very flexible, which may make it more comfortable to use, but I have doubts on how well it can hold up. In my experience, the thiner and less rigid the cable, the more likely it is to fail. If the cable was more rigid and half the length it may hold up longer. I'm sure you have done more testing than I have in this regard though, so after a few months of use I could give you some better findings.
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Thanks my friend. Your voice is always important to me.
For the sounding like distortion when switching screens, lets test the replacement;
For the cable, don't worry, this is best cable we are using. My partner factory is a professional cable manufacturer for 10 years and they has all kinds of cable. This one is the most expensive one. Check the copper inside by cutting it off! Come back to me within 1 year if the cable has problem.

Teclover Bill said:
Thanks my friend. Your voice is always important to me.
For the sounding like distortion when switching screens, lets test the replacement;
For the cable, don't worry, this is best cable we are using. My partner factory is a professional cable manufacturer for 10 years and they has all kinds of cable. This one is the most expensive one. Check the copper inside by cutting it off! Come back to me within 1 year if the cable has problem.
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Click to collapse
I actually got the replacement very quickly, and I haven't noticed the beeping noise again yet, but the static/white noise is still there when I switch screens. It doesn't happen with the OEM adapter, but it's something that's present with this one. I tried 5 pairs of headphones and found that it varies in intensity depending on which pair I'm using. The best pair I used was a pair of Nox earbuds (discontinued brand), while the worst were JVC. JBL, Xiaomi, and TaoTronics all tested about the same. When switching screens/apps with no volume playing, there's a initial pop of static, followed by a second or so of white noise before it goes away. The Nox buds were the only pair of headphones I tried that only had the initial pop (no white noise following), and at a lower volume than the others I tested. It's almost as if it's trying to pick up on sound that should be playing on the new screen, but once it can't find any it gives up. It may just be a device specific problem as I haven't seen anything regarding this on the Pixel thread, and it's not something serious that will make or break the product, but it is a minor annoyance. Since the replacement had the same problem, I'm assuming it's something that will be true for all stock.
Edit: After a few days the beeping showed up on the replacement as well. Oh well, it still works great if sound is actually playing, but if you're like me and just have your headphones plugged in all the time, it's not something that would replace the OEM adapter (for the 3.5mm adapter only).

Thanks My friend,
It is really a helpful review from you! I have asked other testers also using an Essential phone but they don't have the problem like yours. However, as long as you find problem, i have the responsibility to find them out and fix it. These days i have been looking for several essential phone users to test and waiting for there reports. Meanwhile i am also asking my team to simulate your case and fix that problem, but that need time. Although the phone model is same, it needs time and lucks to re-appear the same problem you have.
Thank you for your wonderful report, i won't ruin your hard work.
Gamernivek said:
I actually got the replacement very quickly, and I haven't noticed the beeping noise again yet, but the static/white noise is still there when I switch screens. It doesn't happen with the OEM adapter, but it's something that's present with this one. I tried 5 pairs of headphones and found that it varies in intensity depending on which pair I'm using. The best pair I used was a pair of Nox earbuds (discontinued brand), while the worst were JVC. JBL, Xiaomi, and TaoTronics all tested about the same. When switching screens/apps with no volume playing, there's a initial pop of static, followed by a second or so of white noise before it goes away. The Nox buds were the only pair of headphones I tried that only had the initial pop (no white noise following), and at a lower volume than the others I tested. It's almost as if it's trying to pick up on sound that should be playing on the new screen, but once it can't find any it gives up. It may just be a device specific problem as I haven't seen anything regarding this on the Pixel thread, and it's not something serious that will make or break the product, but it is a minor annoyance. Since the replacement had the same problem, I'm assuming it's something that will be true for all stock.
Edit: After a few days the beeping showed up on the replacement as well. Oh well, it still works great if sound is actually playing, but if you're like me and just have your headphones plugged in all the time, it's not something that would replace the OEM adapter (for the 3.5mm adapter only).
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Works great for phones with no headphone (3.5) jack. I have the Essential Phone and being able to charge and listen to music/movies via 3.5 jack at the same time has been awesome. The sound is just as good or better than the USB C to 3.5 jack that came with the phone. This should have been included in the box when the phone arrived. I loaded Viper up and it sounds even better. I will be buying again for my other phones..

Thanks so much Johnny for helping test!
I am also looking forward to know whether you have the same problem with the friend in above comments? He is also using an Essential Phone, but he found some problem when using.
I know you are busy, take your time and test it for more days before reports.
As a developer i am eager to kill all imperfect things and make it zero issue to everyone.
Thanks!
johnnycooper said:
Works great for phones with no headphone (3.5) jack. I have the Essential Phone and being able to charge and listen to music/movies via 3.5 jack at the same time has been awesome. The sound is just as good or better than the USB C to 3.5 jack that came with the phone. This should have been included in the box when the phone arrived. I loaded Viper up and it sounds even better. I will be buying again for my other phones..
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Click to collapse

Teclover Bill said:
Thanks so much Johnny for helping test!
I am also looking forward to know whether you have the same problem with the friend in above comments? He is also using an Essential Phone, but he found some problem when using.
I know you are busy, take your time and test it for more days before reports.
As a developer i am eager to kill all imperfect things and make it zero issue to everyone.
Thanks!
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Click to collapse
I have not had the pop sound/noise when switching apps or anything else. It really has been great. I am rooted running viper though.

Teclover Bill said:
Thanks My friend,
It is really a helpful review from you! I have asked other testers also using an Essential phone but they don't have the problem like yours. However, as long as you find problem, i have the responsibility to find them out and fix it. These days i have been looking for several essential phone users to test and waiting for there reports. Meanwhile i am also asking my team to simulate your case and fix that problem, but that need time. Although the phone model is same, it needs time and lucks to re-appear the same problem you have.
Thank you for your wonderful report, i won't ruin your hard work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going to see if I can record the sound somehow. I'm curious as to wether it would play when connected to a speaker - I'll try that next. Kind of odd that I'm the only one who has reports of the extra noises. 2 out of 2 adapters I've tried both had the problem though, so I don't think it's a coincidence. I've also tried the adapters on 2 different Essential Phones and had the same results.

Finnaly an adapter that looks like it works as advertised .
Do you maybe have an EU store too, so that I don't have to pay an arm and a leg for customs and shipping?
Can't wait to enjoy charging and watching a movie at the same time!
To be honest, manufacturers should include an adapter like this by default if they decide to remove 3.5mm port and DAC.
Kind Regards

Teclover Bill said:
For voltage issue you are concerning, 5V comes out from power supply all the way, 2A charging into phone. One thing i have to mention: use original power supply to charge!
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So this adapter charges at lower output than OEM (3A)?
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Yes lower than 3A for smartphones. Only when you use it on laptop like Macbook will reach 3A max.
For PH-1, the max current reach 2.5A max. If you have facebook, i can send you a video showing the charging voltage/current/watt
Spey said:
So this adapter charges at lower output than OEM (3A)?
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
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