Hi,
First time posting. I'm looking for ideas or possible fixes to this issue.
Recently installed a EKIY T7 into 2010 Outback. Headunit turns on and works fine in ACC, but when I start the engine, the screen goes black, turns off. I thought maybe it was rebooting from loss of power when engine starts, but it does not turn back on when driving.
Only thing I'd say I did that would be off, way cut the blue wire that runs from the power harness, on radio side, to the antenna. The 2010 outback antenna adapter with blue wire did not fit, so ended up using one without it.
I think this is just the power antenna wire, but am unsure. was thinking one solution might be installing a remote on switch.
Attached photos, is screen on when in ACC. Type of plugs, and pin diagram.
I had this problem with Nissan X-trail, after it had been in for repair. Turned out a fuse had been removed and not replaced, by accident or on purpose I have no idea. Might be worth checking ALL your fuses. There are two boxes in the cab of my car.
slingshotrobot said:
Hi,
First time posting. I'm looking for ideas or possible fixes to this issue.
Recently installed a EKIY T7 into 2010 Outback. Headunit turns on and works fine in ACC, but when I start the engine, the screen goes black, turns off. I thought maybe it was rebooting from loss of power when engine starts, but it does not turn back on when driving.
Only thing I'd say I did that would be off, way cut the blue wire that runs from the power harness, on radio side, to the antenna. The 2010 outback antenna adapter with blue wire did not fit, so ended up using one without it.
I think this is just the power antenna wire, but am unsure. was thinking one solution might be installing a remote on switch.
Attached photos, is screen on when in ACC. Type of plugs, and pin diagram.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sounds like a ACC red cable problem. ACC controls if the unit should sleep or not. Measure the red cable when your engine runs, should have 12 -14 volt something. I.e. red cable in your HU harness.
Thank you. I'll try that. Was thinking maybe red and yellow wire are backwards. Will report back on progress.
slingshotrobot said:
Thank you. I'll try that. Was thinking maybe red and yellow wire are backwards. Will report back on progress.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In that case the screen should not be black when the car is running. Yellow is B+, always on, while red is sleep (No 12-14 volt) or no sleep=active(12-14 volt).
After trying a few other things, I was able to keep it turned on with the alternator unplugged. So maybe a diode in the alternator is going out. Will keep updates on whether a new alternator fixed it
Finally got it figured out with the help of their tech support. Solution was to cut the steering wheel learning wires (a6 and a7). Not sure why but this fixed it hope that helps others if they encounter same problem.
slingshotrobot said:
Finally got it figured out with the help of their tech support. Solution was to cut the steering wheel learning wires (a6 and a7). Not sure why but this fixed it hope that helps others if they encounter same problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you do with the SWC cables Key1 and Key2 for the problem to appear? I mean before you solved the problem. Normally if you have canbusbox they are not used at all and left open. Did you ground them or what?
I didn't have a canbus connected at all. Was told to just snip pink wire, A6 and A7 going to the head unit. fairly certain it was just the A6 wire that did it. I have no idea why that worked at all, but it did.
Related
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
ADB100 said:
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
sirleeofroy said:
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
ADB100 said:
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
ADB100 said:
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The audio is supplied to the amp via a quad-lock connector. So the audio from the rear of the unit connects to this dongle on one side, out the other side of the dongle are four female RCA's. These are connected to four male RCA's that connect to the quad-lock connector. There are two blue wires labelled 'AMP-CON' that have male/female push-fit connectors and these are connected together - I am guessing this is the 12v to switch the amp on? There is also another blue wire labelled 'ANT' with a push-fit connector. This is connected to a green wire coming out of the antenna facra cable.
It was working and nothing has been disturbed so I am fairly sure its not been wired up incorrectly. I think something has broken...
I'll check with a multimeter that I am getting 12v on the AMP-CON cable from the back of the amp first.
Andy
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
sirleeofroy said:
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for taking the time to help out. I don't think I described the cabling correctly. The AMP-CON and the ANT come from the same pin in the connector that plugs into the rear of the head unit (one wire comes out and then it splits into two and there is a bit of heat-shrink around the join. If I disconnect the ANT cable from the green wire that comes from the fakra adapter there is sound and the cable goes +10v. If I connect it back up there is a low 'thud' as it makes contact, the sound stops and the voltage drops to 0.something. It seems the fakra adapter is dragging the voltage down, hence why I think this adapter might be faulty.
Andy
I have the same issue now. We’re you able to resolve this?
I am also having this issue.. My HU turns on. Everything works perfectly... Just no sound. None at all. No factory amp. In a 2002 Silverado. I don't know if its the internal amp or what. Ideas?
Just wondered if anyone has any suggestions.
I use DAB a lot but I have to keep the screen brightness on the lowest setting otherwise it kills the signal to the dab the more I increase the brightness.
I’m using a KGL px5 octo core, I’ve updated to MTCE firmware and the latest kgl mcu and I have tried with GS firmware before but still the problem is there. I have changed factory settings for screen brightness etc but still no luck. Today I cut a usb cable open and tested it with a multimeter when the screen was on full brightness with DAB on and the voltage was perfect and didn’t decrease when I turned the brightness up. I’m using the modded zoulou app and I’m pretty sure this problem was there when i used the standard app.
I’m out of ideas of what it can be.
The only thing I haven’t changed is the little DAB box, could it be this?
Could it be a software bug or could there be some other sort of hardware fault?
Anyone any ideas????
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
SkyBeam2048 said:
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The dab box I’m using was supplied by erisin it is the right one it is a little square shaped box with a mcx connection for antenna and a micro usb connection for power from the headunit. I did wonder if this could be faulty but I don’t see how screen brightness could affect this box.
I have noticed sometimes that when I pull the headunit out of the dash that with the screen brightness on full sometimes the dab will work but as soon as i push it back in the dash it goes off again and I have to put the brightness back down to minimum and then it will work fine again. Because of this i have thought it could be a loose usb connection as the usb’s Are on the back of the unit and there can’t be much space behind there when the unit is pushed back in but if that is the case I don’t understand why it works when putting the brightness back down to minimum. Having said that I have tried making the usb connections tighter by raising the prongs inside the usb slots and I have noticed that they only have prongs on the top or bottom inside the usb slots whereas on my laptop and phone charger they have prongs on the top and bottom inside the usb slot therefore giving a much much firmer fit. Maybe that is the problem but I don’t know and I can’t get it working and I’m out of ideas.
Be interesting to hear from other users that are using dab on a px5 especially if you are using it successfully with a similar setup to mine.
I’m using a KGL with the little plastic square dab box and a glass mount antenna(I don’t believe the antenna is the problem as the signal is brilliant when the brightness is down and I bought a new alpine antenna.)
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
SkyBeam2048 said:
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I’ve checked and changed cables etc, the cables are quite long though so there is a lot behind there which could get bent etc especially when the unit goes back. my feeling were that the usb cable were moving when im pushing the headunit back in but surely if this were the case then I’d struggle to use it all.
Your last point is interesting about moving the dab receiver box as I think I’ve always had it behind the headunit if I remember right so I might move that out of the way, but again why would screen brightness affect it?
ab1702 said:
but again why would screen brightness affect it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
SkyBeam2048 said:
Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can’t say for sure but I don’t think the voltage is anything to do with it as I have cut the end off a usb cable and plugged it into the unit and then pushed it back in and tested it with a multimeter and it had 5.3 volts. I thought that when I turned the brightness up it could be taking power away from the usb but that doesn’t appear to be the case. I also tried a y shaped usb cable so it has double the amount of power so 10volts should be going through it. This didn’t make any difference to my problem but it does make the antenna perform better.
I think the next thing I’ll be trying is moving the dab receiver away from the headunit and see how i get on with that(although I do think I have already tried this). It definately appears to be an interference problem but from what is the question?!
Well I’m still scratching my head with this.
Tried moving the dab receiver away from the headunit last night and it makes little difference.
I’m thinking it has to be something to do with the usb connection although I still don’t understand why it is linked to the brightness of the screen.
I can take the headunit out of the dash and turn the brightness up full and it will lose all signal but then I could move the headunit a little while still out of the dash and it goes to full signal and will stay there but as soon as i go to push the unit back in the car it goes off again. The strange thing is if i then do put the unit back in the dash then lower the brightness to the lowest setting then signal is perfect again.
I’m ready for throwing it out to be honest!.!
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
ab1702 said:
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you then solved, because I also have the problems problems
Installed the Erisin ES7915v in a 2009 Skoda Superb a few days ago. PX5 running Android 9.0.
Install was fine and things are working well except for a constant static that appears whenever the volume is above zero. The static does not change volume but it's easily noticeable at lower volumes especially on e.g. non-music radio. There was no static at all on the previous setup (the factory fitted Skoda Columbus / RNS 510). Turn volume to zero and static disappears.
The car has an amp under the passenger seat (factory fitted again). It doesn't use RCA cables - just standard speaker wire cables from the wiring harness in the head unit down to the amp and then out to the speakers. The head unit has the option of using RCA cables.
So:
1. I've altered gain up to -15 and it doesn't have any overall effect.
2. While the static volume doesn't change, the pitch can do so with acceleration etc.
3. It's not related to the screen or the button colours - I've altered those / turned screen off but it has zero effect.
4. I can use the software amp to bring down treble frequencies which helps lower the static but that's not ideal and doesn't come close to eliminating the whole noise.
5. I've tried running a ground wire attached to the head unit to the chassis but no effect.
6. No dash cam. No DAB. No reversing cam (yet).
7. I have a 4g dongle in the glovebox providing wifi but the static is there whether this is on or off.
8. Unplugging the radio aerial doesn't have an effect.
9. Unplugging GPS aerial doesn't have an effect.
Any further suggestions? And is this a faulty unit OR is this likely to happen even if I get a replacement?
heddyheddy said:
Installed the Erisin ES7915v in a 2009 Skoda Superb a few days ago. PX5 running Android 9.0.
Install was fine and things are working well except for a constant static that appears whenever the volume is above zero. The static does not change volume but it's easily noticeable at lower volumes especially on e.g. non-music radio. There was no static at all on the previous setup (the factory fitted Skoda Columbus / RNS 510). Turn volume to zero and static disappears.
The car has an amp under the passenger seat (factory fitted again). It doesn't use RCA cables - just standard speaker wire cables from the wiring harness in the head unit down to the amp and then out to the speakers. The head unit has the option of using RCA cables.
So:
1. I've altered gain up to -15 and it doesn't have any overall effect.
2. While the static volume doesn't change, the pitch can do so with acceleration etc.
3. It's not related to the screen or the button colours - I've altered those / turned screen off but it has zero effect.
4. I can use the software amp to bring down treble frequencies which helps lower the static but that's not ideal and doesn't come close to eliminating the whole noise.
5. I've tried running a ground wire attached to the head unit to the chassis but no effect.
6. No dash cam. No DAB. No reversing cam (yet).
7. I have a 4g dongle in the glovebox providing wifi but the static is there whether this is on or off.
8. Unplugging the radio aerial doesn't have an effect.
9. Unplugging GPS aerial doesn't have an effect.
Any further suggestions? And is this a faulty unit OR is this likely to happen even if I get a replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did the reseller suggest to resolve the issue?
So far the reseller response is " " because they haven't replied to two emails.
heddyheddy said:
So far the reseller response is " " because they haven't replied to two emails.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Suggest identifying the actual model of your unit; if it's an MTCD or mtce, there are others complaining of similar issues in the threads that you might want to look for.
marchnz said:
Suggest identifying the actual model of your unit; if it's an MTCD or mtce, there are others complaining of similar issues in the threads that you might want to look for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I'll post that later when I am with the car again. I checked through a lot of previous threads and the few solutions that have helped others on occasion were no good for me.
marchnz said:
Suggest identifying the actual model of your unit; if it's an MTCD or mtce(
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So this is an MTCE unit:
MTCE_LM_V3.12_1
May 16 2019
Model: PX5(1024x600)
CPU: Octa-core Cortex-A53 @ 1.5G
Build number: rk3368-userdebug 9 PQ2A and I can type out the rest if it's important.
So I guess that means it's from LEI_MA Lei Electronics Inc
I have also found that the static is caused by the lights. With headlights / sidelights OFF, there is no static. It *doesn't* appear to be the result of the LCD or the lights of the buttons on the unit (this has been an issue for others). When I turn the headlights off, the static goes immediately but the lights on the unit remain on for half a second - but the static has already ceased.
So with that knowledge, should I move this post or is this the place for MTCE discussion as well?
Any thoughts on how best to tackle the interference from the lights would be appreciated. Thanks!
Hello,
I hope you find solution with the static.
Since i am interested also for this unit, can you tell if everything else works fine?
Does the CANbus fitted directly?
Steering wheel controls works fine?
How much time the unit need to boot?
Thanks
Same unit, same Problem. VW Golf 5 (2008).
I could solve the problem. The radio antenna is not connected and it is gone. Likewise with only one antenna connected (double fakra), it is gone. Radio still works.
I have a Navifly 7862 head unit and up until now have not bothered to add a rear cam to integrate into the head unit. My car has a separate factory rear cam that has the monitor integrated into the rear vision mirror.
So due to a rainy weekend, I decided to add a new AHD cam. Cam is wired to the reverse light. My 6m RCA plus power lead at the head unit gets 11 volts when reverse gear is triggered. The RCA gets about 0.5 volts.
The options to connect to the 11 (12) volt red power to the head unit are wires called "Camera B+" (red), "IR" (grey), "Brake In" (pink) and two different unnamed yellow wires that are all running from the same connector from the head unit.
The 11 volt red power is connected to Camera B + yet when in reverse the head unit screen does not change. I have tried the live 11 volt line on IR, Brake In and the 2 yellow wires to try and get the head unit to switch to rear cam mode but I cannot get that to happen.
eve if the camera was faulty, I would expect to see the head unit change from home screen to a blank screen that states "no signal" or similar.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be. I have looked through the settings but am yet to find anything to force the head unit to change to rear cam mode.
ludditefornow said:
I have a Navifly 7862 head unit and up until now have not bothered to add a rear cam to integrate into the head unit. My car has a separate factory rear cam that has the monitor integrated into the rear vision mirror.
So due to a rainy weekend, I decided to add a new AHD cam. Cam is wired to the reverse light. My 6m RCA plus power lead at the head unit gets 11 volts when reverse gear is triggered. The RCA gets about 0.5 volts.
The options to connect to the 11 (12) volt red power to the head unit are wires called "Camera B+" (red), "IR" (grey), "Brake In" (pink) and two different unnamed yellow wires that are all running from the same connector from the head unit.
The 11 volt red power is connected to Camera B + yet when in reverse the head unit screen does not change. I have tried the live 11 volt line on IR, Brake In and the 2 yellow wires to try and get the head unit to switch to rear cam mode but I cannot get that to happen.
eve if the camera was faulty, I would expect to see the head unit change from home screen to a blank screen that states "no signal" or similar.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be. I have looked through the settings but am yet to find anything to force the head unit to change to rear cam mode.
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Go to factory settings and find a setting called "Prohibit Reverse", switch this setting and try again.
ludditefornow said:
I have a Navifly 7862 head unit and up until now have not bothered to add a rear cam to integrate into the head unit. My car has a separate factory rear cam that has the monitor integrated into the rear vision mirror.
So due to a rainy weekend, I decided to add a new AHD cam. Cam is wired to the reverse light. My 6m RCA plus power lead at the head unit gets 11 volts when reverse gear is triggered. The RCA gets about 0.5 volts.
The options to connect to the 11 (12) volt red power to the head unit are wires called "Camera B+" (red), "IR" (grey), "Brake In" (pink) and two different unnamed yellow wires that are all running from the same connector from the head unit.
The 11 volt red power is connected to Camera B + yet when in reverse the head unit screen does not change. I have tried the live 11 volt line on IR, Brake In and the 2 yellow wires to try and get the head unit to switch to rear cam mode but I cannot get that to happen.
eve if the camera was faulty, I would expect to see the head unit change from home screen to a blank screen that states "no signal" or similar.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be. I have looked through the settings but am yet to find anything to force the head unit to change to rear cam mode.
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By the way...
You are forcing 12V into the Videosignal line... What are you doing there?
I just had a look at your attached picture. You should not wonder if the radio is now in the eternal hunting-grounds.
If you don´t know how to install a radio, please search for one who can do that without burning down your car. On top the 12V line just twisted together... Whow...Never seen someone doing such bad things in one single posting.
rigattoni said:
By the way...
You are forcing 12V into the Videosignal line... What are you doing there?
I just had a look at your attached picture. You should not wonder if the radio is now in the eternal hunting-grounds.
If you don´t know how to install a radio, please search for one who can do that without burning down your car. On top the 12V line just twisted together... Whow...Never seen someone doing such bad things in one single posting.
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I have temporarily twisted the wire for testing purposes. I solder and heat seal connections when confirmed. Are you always this critical of people?
So what voltage should be fed to the Camera B + line?
The directions was to tap into the reverse light (which is 12 volt) and send that to the power line that runs parallel with the RCA. Are you suggesting that I shouldn't?
Well how about helping here instead of criticising, please, if you know better.
ludditefornow said:
I have temporarily twisted the wire for testing purposes. I solder and heat seal connections when confirmed. Are you always this critical of people?
So what voltage should be fed to the Camera B + line?
The directions was to tap into the reverse light (which is 12 volt) and send that to the power line that runs parallel with the RCA. Are you suggesting that I shouldn't?
Well how about helping here instead of criticising, please, if you know better.
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Not critical- post is accurate and suggests finding a skilled installer to assist you. Poking power on to the head unit wires without understanding is a sure way to break the unit or vehicle.
marchnz said:
Not critical- post is accurate and suggests finding a skilled installer to assist you. Poking power on to the head unit wires without understanding is a sure way to break the unit or vehicle.
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There are 5 in lines to tap.
The literature that came with the cam as well as all videos online from the likes of Joying that I found show a 12v tap from the rear reverse light for the trigger.
You posted recently about 4PDA not being wanted at XDA because the silo knowledge.
Are you not willing to take a few minutes to actually share knowledge when there is a direct lack of knowledge from suppliers?
Well I found the issue and somehow 'managed' not to destroy my head unit, my car, my house or the local power station.
All connections are nicely soldered and heat shrink wrapped now that I have a permanent fix.
The initial attempt at connecting the 12v line to Camera B + as noted on other how tos did not work.
To stay in the spirit of XDA (unlike the postings of some) I would like to advise that the wiring diagram from Navifly was incorrect.They have the pin 2 on the main connector as the reverse that feeds the CAN module. Pin 2 carries a constant 12v. Pin 3 (pink on my HU connector) carries zero voltage. I tapped pin 3 pink wire on the way to the CAN and added the red daughter wire on my 6m long RCA cable.
My red daughter wire is fed 12v from my rear reverse lamp. Reverse lamp also feeds the reverse cam.
I hope this assists someone in future.
ludditefornow said:
ludditefornow said:
Well I found the issue and somehow 'managed' not to destroy my head unit, my car, my house or the local power station.
All connections are nicely soldered and heat shrink wrapped now that I have a permanent fix.
The initial attempt at connecting the 12v line to Camera B + as noted on other how tos did not work.
To stay in the spirit of XDA (unlike the postings of some) I would like to advise that the wiring diagram from Navifly was
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You did it. Thanks for posting your findings, I believe this has been posted about before.
I wouldn't recommend projecting at those that have actually spent hours to days developing methods, tools and helping others here.
All that because of the canbus. i believe they send you a canbus box that only works for steering wheel buttons and nothing else. i had the same problem and solved it like you did.
ludditefornow said:
To stay in the spirit of XDA (unlike the postings of some) I would like to advise that the wiring diagram from Navifly was incorrect.They have the pin 2 on the main connector as the reverse that feeds the CAN module. Pin 2 carries a constant 12v. Pin 3 (pink on my HU connector) carries zero voltage. I tapped pin 3 pink wire on the way to the CAN and added the red daughter wire on my 6m long RCA cable.
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Sorry to say, but the wiring diagram is not really incorrect. It always depends on the aftermarket cam you use. But it is never a good idea to feed 12V into a CPU which just expects a video signal.
...and if you have a look at the wiring diagram of the camera, it shows 2 different ways to get the cam feeded with 12V.
The first one is the yellow connector which has a red wire coming out.
If you would have used this one, plug it into the "CAM IN" connector of your unit and the red one to the Back wire of your unit you would have been okay.
Using the back light to feed the camera is in most cases not necessary.
By the way... As I have seen that you feed the Video-In chinch-connector with 12V, I really was the meaning that you even don´t know anything about that what you did. I just gave the tip to search someone who knows what he does. I didn´t see any chance to start from scratch to teach you how to do.
I am on top really pissed if I see someone just wiggling cables together.
I just counted 1+1 and decided that I have to stop you doing strange things, which could lead to shorts and such things.
So... if it is working now as expected: Fine! ...and thanks for posting.
rigattoni said:
Sorry to say, but the wiring diagram is not really incorrect. It always depends on the aftermarket cam you use. But it is never a good idea to feed 12V into a CPU which just expects a video signal.
...and if you have a look at the wiring diagram of the camera, it shows 2 different ways to get the cam feeded with 12V.
The first one is the yellow connector which has a red wire coming out.
If you would have used this one, plug it into the "CAM IN" connector of your unit and the red one to the Back wire of your unit you would have been okay.
Using the back light to feed the camera is in most cases not necessary.
By the way... As I have seen that you feed the Video-In chinch-connector with 12V, I really was the meaning that you even don´t know anything about that what you did. I just gave the tip to search someone who knows what he does. I didn´t see any chance to start from scratch to teach you how to do.
I am on top really pissed if I see someone just wiggling cables together.
I just counted 1+1 and decided that I have to stop you doing strange things, which could lead to shorts and such things.
So... if it is working now as expected: Fine! ...and thanks for posting.
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First, the diagram is incorrect and has nothing to do with the aftermarket cam. He didn't feed any 12v to video signal, the red wire is the trigger for the head unit to switch to reverse cam input, the 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera and doesn't need to be connected when you feed the camera from the reverse light. When you put the reverse the head unit must switch to reverse cam input if the canbus box is correct for your car, in this case and mines as well it isn't. The wire he shows came from the canbus box must have 12v when you put in reverse but no 12v
leo06 said:
First, the diagram is incorrect and has nothing to do with the aftermarket cam. He didn't feed any 12v to video signal, the red wire is the trigger for the head unit to switch to reverse cam input, the 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera and doesn't need to be connected when you feed the camera from the reverse light. When you put the reverse the head unit must switch to reverse cam input if the canbus box is correct for your car, in this case and mines as well it isn't. The wire he shows came from the canbus box must have 12v when you put in reverse but no 12v
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Sorry, but you are wrong.
The head unit reacts on a voltage difference to switch to the back view camera. It´s not needed to have 12V feeded to the head unit.
CAM-IN from the head unit expects the video signal nothing else.
rigattoni said:
Sorry, but you are wrong.
The head unit reacts on a voltage difference to switch to the back view camera. It´s not needed to have 12V feeded to the head unit.
CAM-IN from the head unit expects the video signal nothing else.
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Sorry, you are wrong. The cam in expects video and that what gets. The 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera but if you already feed the camera with reverse light not needed to be connected. If the canbus box worked properly, all will work too. Do you have the head unit and everything is working? The diagram is incorrect because the brake ctl is not the brake ctl but the reverse camera trigger
marchnz said:
You did it. Thanks for posting your findings, I believe this has been posted about before.
I wouldn't recommend projecting at those that have actually spent hours to days developing methods, tools and helping others here.
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I searched thoroughly and did not find the answer. Why didn't you link me to the answer?
Based on your condescending and unhelpful posts to me, I don't see why projecting at you in this instance is not unwarranted. You had the answers and you chose to not assist. You siloed.
"Prohibit Reverse", was a total red herring and forced me to add more variables into my testing. I now had to test multiple software options and wiring config as well as the incorrect Navifly info very time consuming.
If you feel I need to be banned for calling out this condescending, repugent and unhelpful responses. Go ahead. I have helped more people in this site than I have received and frankly I don't want to be a part of something where your attitude is acceptable.
If you haven't fixed it. I had the same problem with different HU.
I tought my camera or my wiring at the back of the car was wrong.
The reverse camera (12+) signal cable from the back reverse light goes to the REVERSE or BACK cable mostly at the main harness of the HU. In my case it was orange green from XTRONS.
The other red cable at the Rerverse Camera Video In harness is the so called "CAMERA POWER CABLE 12v" it's very irritating that both cable are red and have something to do with camera.
After restarting the HU it worked.
leo06 said:
Sorry, you are wrong. The cam in expects video and that what gets. The 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera but if you already feed the camera with reverse light not needed to be connected. If the canbus box worked properly, all will work too. Do you have the head unit and everything is working? The diagram is incorrect because the brake ctl is not the brake ctl but the reverse camera trigger
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That wire ( A5? ) isn't it meant to tell the headunit to switch to the reverse camera? Because if I would disconnect the reverse camera, it would still be triggered and show a black screen with the car on the left.
But no image, as the reverse camera is off: the wiring diagram that Mekede and also Ekiy provided was correct. Just there are two methods, one for when you need to use Canbus. And the other more common method, which uses the reverse light for trigger and to power the reverse camera.
DexterMorganNL said:
That wire ( A5? ) isn't it meant to tell the headunit to switch to the reverse camera? Because if I would disconnect the reverse camera, it would still be triggered and show a black screen with the car on the left.
But no image, as the reverse camera is off: the wiring diagram that Mekede and also Ekiy provided was correct. Just there are two methods, one for when you need to use Canbus. And the other more common method, which uses the reverse light for trigger and to power the reverse camera.
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it is swapped, the brake ctl is the reverse camera trigger. In navifly there is no lose cable for triggering, the cable is connected to the canbus box and if that is not working you have to cut the wire and connect the red cable to reverse light and to headunit
Hello @ludditefornow , my iDoing head unit have the same your error. Screen blank when back cable to 12v
I bring mine to a repair center, this error from damaged ic named tp9950
You can search, this tp9950 to control the camera signal
I can not replace this ic, and waiting for new ic, i hope new ic will resolve the camera error.
If you have other solution, please share.
Thank you.
nguyenlaman said:
Hello @ludditefornow , my iDoing head unit have the same your error. Screen blank when back cable to 12v
I bring mine to a repair center, this error from damaged ic named tp9950
You can search, this tp9950 to control the camera signal
I can not replace this ic, and waiting for new ic, i hope new ic will resolve the camera error.
If you have other solution, please share.
Thank you.
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Hi Laman, the issue for me was that the wiring diagram from Navifly was incorrect. Look here at wiring. https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...g-hu-into-rear-cam-mode.4479369/post-87280853
When I had the cam wired I needed to put the car in reverse and on the back screen I long pressed on the screen and some options popped up. After that I had cam work.
Let us know if that works for you.
Guys, please help me.
I've installed my Android unit, all okish, but I'm having trouble with the reverse camera.
The instructions are identical with the photo posted by ludditefornow, just in black and white.
The camera connector that goes into the unit has the yellow video jack labeled cam in. Then it has 3 other wires: IR, Break and CCD.
The little red wire on the cable is connected to the IR wire. On the other end it's connected to the 12v reverse light cable.
When in reverse, the unit switches, the parking sensors appear, but there's no picture.
The unit has 2 modes for the reverse camera, AHD (which the camera is supposed to be), and TV. I've tried them both.
One time, just once, the camera showed a black and white, scrambled picture.
I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Please help.
I'll attach a photo with the current wiring.
Hi everyone,
I bought a car and in this car there is an android auto unit.
This unit is a PX5 MTCE_CZ with Android 8.
When a call someone in bluetooth, my correspondent heard a hiss at each acceleration.
So I décide to update the unit.
Firstly, I upgrade the MCU to 2.88 to 3.41.
Secondly, I would like to pass on Android 10. For that I use SDDiskTool and CHS7_PX5_10.0_IMG(20200603).zip file.
The update seems to be ok.
But the hiss are still here and now I can't put the wifi on.
I choose the CHS7 randomly, why there is CHS, GS, HA, etc?? What is the difference between this files?
Thanks
I can't help you with the software question, but the noise in the call is probably a hardware problem. The unit seems to be picking up the electrical noise from the car (spark plug, injectors etc). It can happen thru the air (electromagnetic) of thru the wires (ground loop etc).
Noise source is not easy to find so you will have to tinker on it.
A good way to isolate the problem is powering the unit using a small 12v battery without any electrical contact with the car, but having the unit in the usual place. If you can plug a external independent speaker is even better.
If the noise goes away when you power if from a full independent battery, the noise problem can be on the main 12v or some ground loop.
Noise from power source sometimes can be solved using a big capacitor in parallel to the 12v.
Ground loop is not so obvious to figure out (search for ground loop on google).
If it still picking up noise using an external battery the problem is not in the power or ground loops, so you will need to check the overall shielding of the unit/microphone. You can start changing the cable routing and go from there...
Hi,
thanks for your answers.
I will check with your method and I give you my feedback.