I have a generic 10.1 Android tablet running 4.4.2.
My daughter sat on it and broke the digitiser, the lcd is ok. I've been using the tablet with a mouse through the OTG.
I bought a replacement digitiser (part number GT10MR100, it seem to be pretty common) and fitted it but the digitiser still doesn't work.
When I first opened the tablet after my daughter broke I saw that the ZIF clip for the digitiser ribbon cable was broken, when I fitted the new digitiser I stuffed a thin piece of plastic into the connector the keep the cable in place. I've seen others do this successfully.
Is there anything else I can do?
Flash635 said:
I have a generic 10.1 Android tablet running 4.4.2.
My daughter sat on it and broke the digitiser, the lcd is ok. I've been using the tablet with a mouse through the OTG.
I bought a replacement digitiser (part number GT10MR100, it seem to be pretty common) and fitted it but the digitiser still doesn't work.
When I first opened the tablet after my daughter broke I saw that the ZIF clip for the digitiser ribbon cable was broken, when I fitted the new digitiser I stuffed a thin piece of plastic into the connector the keep the cable in place. I've seen others do this successfully.
Is there anything else I can do?
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Bring it to a repair center or replace the broken cable if possible.
The Ca ribbon cable is OK, it's the zif clip that's broken.
I don't think the zif is replaceable..
The ribbon cable should work, it' s in the right place and is being held firmly.
Related
Anyone have a guide or tips on replacing the motherboard. My tablet bricked while updating to 10.6.1.8 and is stuck in the Asus splash screen. I've seen to utube vid on the screen replacement but can not seem to find a motherboard how to. It seems to motherboard must be removed during the screen replacement. Will I need paste? Is the large copper heat sink cover glued on? Any advise would be great.
Tabbajit said:
Anyone have a guide or tips on replacing the motherboard. My tablet bricked while updating to 10.6.1.8 and is stuck in the Asus splash screen. I've seen to utube vid on the screen replacement but can not seem to find a motherboard how to. It seems to motherboard must be removed during the screen replacement. Will I need paste? Is the large copper heat sink cover glued on? Any advise would be great.
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The copper pad has glue where the processor and the rams are. Some might have glue at the far left and right side. But you can lift it off (you will break the warranty seal in the process). If you're replacing the motherboard, you need to:
A. Disconnect (1) the battery (connector located underneath the copper pad); (2) charging cable (flat amber); (3) touchscreen cable (flat white or silver, sometimes covered with black tape); (4) lcd screen cable (strand of multi-colored wires taped down to the battery); (5) remove the small amber cable connecting the power switch to the MB; and (6) disconnect the speakers connector from the MB.
B. Remove all the tiny screws in plain sight holding the MB to the magnesium frame.
C. Lift the cameras off their slots with something non-metal, like a toothpick.
D. Lift the MB just a bit to make sure it's loose, then SLIDE it out to the left, paying particular attention to the power button module (small amber ribbon assembly at the top right corner). If you pull it straight up, you will rip it.
Reassembly is just the reverse. Be sure to connect the battery last, just before reinstalling the copper pad. Good luck. Go to this thread for pics.
Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?
Tabbajit said:
Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?
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Apparently, the copper pad is smeared with some heat-conducting adhesive at contact points with the processor and ram chips. Some people would just stick it back. It didn't hold as well the second time though, in my experience. I cleaned off the sticky stuff, used Arctic Silver 5 on both components, and stuck some copper tape around the pad's edge. Just personal preferences.
Tabbajit said:
Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?
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i don't think it is necessary...
so there are 2 cables I am not able to disconnect. one is the larger longer cooper ribbon that connects to the charging\docking port. the other has a similar connection. it is under black tape and is between the mico hdmi output and a multi color ribbon. I was able to get the other ones disconnected. Please help. Trying to take my time but I am getting frustrated and worried I am going to break something
EDIT- I figured it out. The black part behind the tan connection part is tinny but flips up. I got it disconnected. That was easier than I though!
I'm sad to say I finally destroyed my TF300. It fell from about 6 feet onto tile. The screen is cracked in quite a few places, but luckily it didn't spiderweb. The touchscreen kind of works, I say kind of, because it's touching in random places all over the screen. So my question is, can I possibly unplug the digitizer only since the LCD works fine? That way I can use the keyboard dock's mouse or a USB mouse and still use the device. Thanks in advance for any help.
this happened to me as well. On youtube there are many tutorials of how to replace the screen..
they will show you how to take the back casing off
then you can just unplug the digitizer cable (its the yellow cable with two connections on the bottom right of the back of the tablet) this will disable the touch but if you go that far you might as well replace the whole screen you can get online for $50.
and make sure to take note of the digitizer revision number as asus makes 4 different types and only the one will work on your tablet when you want to fix it...its a number on the digitizer cable either g01 g02 g03 or one other i cant remember off the top of my head
schkeet said:
this happened to me as well. On youtube there are many tutorials of how to replace the screen..
they will show you how to take the back casing off
then you can just unplug the digitizer cable (its the yellow cable with two connections on the bottom right of the back of the tablet) this will disable the touch but if you go that far you might as well replace the whole screen you can get online for $50.
and make sure to take note of the digitizer revision number as asus makes 4 different types and only the one will work on your tablet when you want to fix it...its a number on the digitizer cable either g01 g02 g03 or one other i cant remember off the top of my head
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Sorry, I meant that I didn't want to fix the display, just disable the digitizer so that I can continue to use the device via HDMI. If I unplug the digitizer, will the LCD still work?
After unplugging the ribbon cable for the digitizer, most of the random touches have stopped. But now, even using the built in touchpad or a USB mouse, touches do not hold and can cause random presses to occur in various parts of the screen. Any ideas?
I'm not sure but could be a different problem? I've done the same to mine and my keyboard dock works just fine
savergn said:
After unplugging the ribbon cable for the digitizer, most of the random touches have stopped. But now, even using the built in touchpad or a USB mouse, touches do not hold and can cause random presses to occur in various parts of the screen. Any ideas?
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Spontaneous presses? This is at random, some tabs have it, others don't. That ain't from the keyboard; rather from either the digitizer, though detached it might be, or the TS board, or both in close proximity with one another. I've experienced this and still have no idea why. I've had perfectly good dig and TS Board do it when the board is left dangling and not screwed down to the magnesium frame. The only way to stop is to replace the digitizer. Or you can try to yank the dig's ribbons off the glass, as I've noticed ghost touches produced by a dig with partially torn ribbons (on the glass side) that were still connected to the PCB. The dig is not repairable anyways. You're risking nothing.
graphdarnell said:
Spontaneous presses? This is at random, some tabs have it, others don't. That ain't from the keyboard; rather from either the digitizer, though detached it might be, or the TS board, or both in close proximity with one another. I've experienced this and still have no idea why. I've had perfectly good dig and TS Board do it when the board is left dangling and not screwed down to the magnesium frame. The only way to stop is to replace the digitizer. Or you can try to yank the dig's ribbons off the glass, as I've noticed ghost touches produced by a dig with partially torn ribbons (on the glass side) that were still connected to the PCB. The dig is not repairable anyways. You're risking nothing.
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Do you possibly have any photos or tutorials that might be able to help me out so I don't cause anymore damage to the tablet?
savergn said:
Do you possibly have any photos or tutorials that might be able to help me out so I don't cause anymore damage to the tablet?
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Click to collapse
Not sure where to start. If you've taken apart the thing before, i'd be easier. Remove the back. Turn off the service switch (Important). Otherwise, you might burn a coil on the motherboard. If you don't know what that is, look at the top of the motherboard. To the left of the power switch (thin amber ribbon for power on top side and volume on right side), there's a switch mounted on the other side but accessible from the top of the board. You'll see the printing "off" and "on" on this side. Slide it to "off" position. (Thumb attached shows location of switch at top, and where the ribbons should be cut off at bottom).
The ribbon part that's taped to the glass is hidden under the lcd. If you don't care, just snip it off where it meets the lcd edge. There's really no need to remove the lcd if you're not intent on replacing the digitizer. Again, since I am not certain what caused the ghost touches in your cases, it's possible they will continue. Hopefully, they won't. But at this point, the digitizer serves no function other than protecting the lcd surface on the outside. No need to save the ribbons.
To tell you the truth, I've tried using the tab with a dock and no touchscreen. You can live with it, but it's enormous inconvenience any way you use the device, from recoveries to roms to any app within. It's just not designed to be user-friendly that way. I eventually gave up and replaced the digitizer. You can find one for around $35.00 these days.
graphdarnell said:
Not sure where to start. If you've taken apart the thing before, i'd be easier. Remove the back. Turn off the service switch (Important). Otherwise, you might burn a coil on the motherboard. If you don't know what that is, look at the top of the motherboard. To the left of the power switch (thin amber ribbon for power on top side and volume on right side), there's a switch mounted on the other side but accessible from the top of the board. You'll see the printing "off" and "on" on this side. Slide it to "off" position. (Thumb attached shows location of switch at top, and where the ribbons should be cut off at bottom).
The ribbon part that's taped to the glass is hidden under the lcd. If you don't care, just snip it off where it meets the lcd edge. There's really no need to remove the lcd if you're not intent on replacing the digitizer. Again, since I am not certain what caused the ghost touches in your cases, it's possible they will continue. Hopefully, they won't. But at this point, the digitizer serves no function other than protecting the lcd surface on the outside. No need to save the ribbons.
To tell you the truth, I've tried using the tab with a dock and no touchscreen. You can live with it, but it's enormous inconvenience any way you use the device, from recoveries to roms to any app within. It's just not designed to be user-friendly that way. I eventually gave up and replaced the digitizer. You can find one for around $35.00 these days.
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Thank you very much for the information.
I don't plan on using it as a daily device, I just picked up my Note 3 the other day, and using the TF300 is going to feel like going back to the stone age. I really just wanted it to have basic functionality, because I still have the HDMI cable for it, and have XBMC and VLC installed on it, so I can play videos easily on my TV. It has Cyanogenmod on it right now, so really, it should be fine for a while. I could probably also hook up my dualshock 3 to it and game on a TV. Portable low-end console. I'll update the thread later if whenever I get around to cutting the ribbon cable. Thanks again.
Hello! I tried searching but there is too much clutter and I can't find a specific answer.
First, my tft300 had a G03 digitizer that broke. I already took it appart and managed to tear a small ribbon cable on the left corner of the lcd (underneath the black tape.
I found a complete assembly of the lcd, framr and digitizer but it is a G01 digitizer.
The board where the connectors go in says JE301 and J6302. Touch panel version says ELAN-3011-4822. Would a G01 work with my hardware or do I strictly have to go with G03?
Also I have found G03+lcd combo but the lcd is different. It says Rev. 2, mine is Rev. 4. Does this difference in lcd matter? Are they practically the same?
Thanks!
m0nkey34 said:
Hello! I tried searching but there is too much clutter and I can't find a specific answer.
First, my tft300 had a G03 digitizer that broke. I already took it appart and managed to tear a small ribbon cable on the left corner of the lcd (underneath the black tape.
I found a complete assembly of the lcd, framr and digitizer but it is a G01 digitizer.
The board where the connectors go in says JE301 and J6302. Touch panel version says ELAN-3011-4822. Would a G01 work with my hardware or do I strictly have to go with G03?
Also I have found G03+lcd combo but the lcd is different. It says Rev. 2, mine is Rev. 4. Does this difference in lcd matter? Are they practically the same?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The G01 will work as a replacement for the G03 fine. As to the lcd, you will need to load a picture. The rev. does not matter, but the position of the connector does. If you have to adjust it to fit, that's not good. About the one with the broken connector, if you'd like to donate it for experimentation, let me know. It's never a good idea to remove the lcd the way someone did it on youtube, i.e., remove the backframe, then the glass, then the frontframe. It's almost guaranteed to damage the lcd in some way.
graphdarnell said:
The G01 will work as a replacement for the G03 fine. As to the lcd, you will need to load a picture. The rev. does not matter, but the position of the connector does. If you have to adjust it to fit, that's not good. About the one with the broken connector, if you'd like to donate it for experimentation, let me know. It's never a good idea to remove the lcd the way someone did it on youtube, i.e., remove the backframe, then the glass, then the frontframe. It's almost guaranteed to damage the lcd in some way.
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Yes, I followed that damn video that has the letters on the bottom. It has no sound or text warnings as to be carefull with that black tape on that corner where the cable is. Thatd $60+ right there....
Followed a couple of online tutorials on replacing a cracked LCD and I cannot get the digitizer to work after assembly....I've read that occasionally the flex ribbon cable to connect the display assembly is fragile enough to get damaged - this is the only possible issue I can surmise is the problem...Yet, I'm not convinced I damaged it
Screen looks good but touching the screen results in no changes
Anyone with any experience or thoughts to remedy this?
I had a flex ribbon partially disconnected in my infuse 4, it distorted the color of the LCD screen. I would think it possible, if it were damaged or disconnected. Could possibly be the solder came loose. just guesses though, but otherwise the ribbons are generally pretty tough I think.
Hi guys,
I have a Dasaita PX5 unit with Android 8.0 and 4 GB RAM.
I've bought it a few months ago and it was working fine until today the screen just went crazy.
The screen will start touching itself all over and enabling settings, or quitting my GPS software, or activating apps, or flipping through different screens etc.
I've tried to update the system software, update the MCU, and even a factory reset. The crazy screen issue still persist.
Any idea how and why my screen went crazy and how do I resolve it?
Thanks
Here is a short sample of what I meant by going crazy:
https://youtu.be/8ZcIXuc7MEw
I know exactly why and have had the same problem. There is a ribbon cable that comes out of the screen between the glass and LCD for the digitizer, its damaged the screens are so cheaply made the glass is still somewhat sharp and the cable kinks and breaks. . I actually just came on here to post if anyone knew where I could get a replacement besides Aliexpress.....
You should try reconnecting the ribbon cable, else just get yourself a screen replacement from where you bought the headunit.
I had similar issue where bottom part of the touch screen no longer register touches and as time goes by, the whole screen is completely "untouchable".
The root cause is that the ribbon between the unit and the screen panel connect to the mainboard is rubbing against the unit casing's sharp edges causes permanent damage. Fortunately, it is still under warranty and i have got a replacement panel, smoothed the casing edges and place some duct tape before replacing the panel.
BlinkyTrojan said:
You should try reconnecting the ribbon cable, else just get yourself a screen replacement from where you bought the headunit.
I had similar issue where bottom part of the touch screen no longer register touches and as time goes by, the whole screen is completely "untouchable".
The root cause is that the ribbon between the unit and the screen panel connect to the mainboard is rubbing against the unit casing's sharp edges causes permanent damage. Fortunately, it is still under warranty and i have got a replacement panel, smoothed the casing edges and place some duct tape before replacing the panel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just tried it and it got worst. :S
Someone with the answer?