[Q] Motherboard replacement help - Transformer TF300T Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Anyone have a guide or tips on replacing the motherboard. My tablet bricked while updating to 10.6.1.8 and is stuck in the Asus splash screen. I've seen to utube vid on the screen replacement but can not seem to find a motherboard how to. It seems to motherboard must be removed during the screen replacement. Will I need paste? Is the large copper heat sink cover glued on? Any advise would be great.

Tabbajit said:
Anyone have a guide or tips on replacing the motherboard. My tablet bricked while updating to 10.6.1.8 and is stuck in the Asus splash screen. I've seen to utube vid on the screen replacement but can not seem to find a motherboard how to. It seems to motherboard must be removed during the screen replacement. Will I need paste? Is the large copper heat sink cover glued on? Any advise would be great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The copper pad has glue where the processor and the rams are. Some might have glue at the far left and right side. But you can lift it off (you will break the warranty seal in the process). If you're replacing the motherboard, you need to:
A. Disconnect (1) the battery (connector located underneath the copper pad); (2) charging cable (flat amber); (3) touchscreen cable (flat white or silver, sometimes covered with black tape); (4) lcd screen cable (strand of multi-colored wires taped down to the battery); (5) remove the small amber cable connecting the power switch to the MB; and (6) disconnect the speakers connector from the MB.
B. Remove all the tiny screws in plain sight holding the MB to the magnesium frame.
C. Lift the cameras off their slots with something non-metal, like a toothpick.
D. Lift the MB just a bit to make sure it's loose, then SLIDE it out to the left, paying particular attention to the power button module (small amber ribbon assembly at the top right corner). If you pull it straight up, you will rip it.
Reassembly is just the reverse. Be sure to connect the battery last, just before reinstalling the copper pad. Good luck. Go to this thread for pics.

Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?

Tabbajit said:
Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?
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Click to collapse
Apparently, the copper pad is smeared with some heat-conducting adhesive at contact points with the processor and ram chips. Some people would just stick it back. It didn't hold as well the second time though, in my experience. I cleaned off the sticky stuff, used Arctic Silver 5 on both components, and stuck some copper tape around the pad's edge. Just personal preferences.

Tabbajit said:
Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't think it is necessary...

so there are 2 cables I am not able to disconnect. one is the larger longer cooper ribbon that connects to the charging\docking port. the other has a similar connection. it is under black tape and is between the mico hdmi output and a multi color ribbon. I was able to get the other ones disconnected. Please help. Trying to take my time but I am getting frustrated and worried I am going to break something
EDIT- I figured it out. The black part behind the tan connection part is tinny but flips up. I got it disconnected. That was easier than I though!

Related

Replacing screen.

I'm trying to replace the screen on my Arrive. But I can't figure out how to get the screen out. It looks like I can pop out the back behind it, but I can't figure out how it disassembles. is there a tutorial out there or something?
To replace the *glass*, which I'm assuming is what you mean (not the LCD - they're separate in this phone, for once!)
Follow the "replace HTC 7 Pro memory card" instructions to remove the first back piece. Next, remove the screws in the next plastic back and remove it as well (it'll be easier to remove as it's just screws and contacts - no clips or wires). At this point you should see an exposed PCB, and your phone's hinge (a set of springs).
Undo the 4 screws holding the hinges on, along with the two screws holding the "pop-up" bezel (there are access holes for them - it'll make sense once you get there).
Slide the hinges across the back of the display (like you were opening the phone, but pull by the hinges! otherwise you'll break the display cable) and you'll see two screws which hold covers onto the back of the display panel. Undo the one for the bottom panel and pry the plastic bottom panel off from the back to gain access to the touchscreen connector.
Next, take a heat gun to your display and pry the glass off - I hope your glass is shattered and that's why you're replacing it because otherwise this is hugely difficult - the glass is glued on and glued on tight!
You'll see the glass is attached via flex cable thru the plastic to a connector inside the back - this is why you had to take your whole phone apart! Carefully lift the tape covering the connector, flip up the connector, and remove the old touchscreen ribbon cable and chip. Thread the new one through and reverse steps to install.
I just used the remainder of the old glue to stick my new display on, by setting it under some heavy books overnight. Your mileage will probably vary - I'm not too picky and a slightly loose/mushy screen beats a shattered one for me so I just left it at that.
Otherwise you'll probably have to figure out how to glue the display glass back on properly.
http://forum.ppcgeeks.com/htc-arrive-7-pro/144512-htc-arrive-disassembly.html
Sent from my PG41200 using XDA Premium App
Generally, I would look for one of the teardowns that have become popular for when devices are first released.....sort of the one-upping of the unboxing video.
I had trouble finding a decent disassembly - the "big" disassembly sites (ifixit etc.) seem to have ignored the Arrive and all I found on YouTube was horrid quality and mostly worthless.
That ppcgeeks thread is definitely the best resource for pics - I found that peeling the metal tape and unplugging the entire display/front piece was unnecessary by exercising some care to not break the ribbons, and I found that I needed to go a step further and remove the bottom (behind the buttons) plastic cover from the display piece to access the touch digitizer flex cable (which was behind some horribly obnoxious yellow tape).
Replace Screen under digitizer
Does anyone have a walk through on how to change the actual screen under the digitizer? I took the whole phone apart, but everything on the screen half of the phone seems to be glued.
I figured i would look around before just prying it open.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Someone please post pics about last steps?
I was able to take hinges out of way but I am not sure if I need to peel off the metalic film. Hence I still have my top cover with glass attached with the back of the phone.
After I reach I have no idea what to do and now putting together my phone without changing broken glass!

[Q] Disassembly for screen replacement

I know this is a hardware question, but I'm hoping someone might have an answer.
My son cracked the screen on his Galaxy S Blaze. I ordered a replacement screen assembly and found a video which I thought showed how to replace the screen, but it was for a different model. I have the cover off, the flex cables disconnected and the motherboard out, but I can't figure out how to remove the old screen from the front housing. Based on the other video, it should be a combination of heating the edge of the housing with a hair dryer until the adhesive softens, then prying it off. I've tried to do this with no luck, but it could be that I'm not prying hard enough - kinda scared to break it.
Does anyone know how to remove the screen - or better yet, know of a disassembly guide for the Galaxy S Blaze?
Thanks!
Heat, Heat and more heat...
Be careful with the heat as it can destroy amoled
a little off topic but...
One of the pins on my usb port got damaged. I was curious and took off the cover to have a look at what would be needed to replace it.... too much soldering that is above my skill level. Anyways, in the process of removing the cover, I lost functionality of my hardware buttons. I'm assuming I damaged the cables that attach them to the mobo. Didn't notice this until I put the cover back on and booted up. Does that seem right? Was I just being too harsh while taking it apart and ripped a ribbon or something of the like?

Verizon Galaxy S III (i535) Display colors wrong after glass replacement

To make a long story short, my wife dropped her Samsung Galaxy S3 i535 phone a couple weeks ago and shattered the front glass. I ordered the replacement glass on eBay and proceeded to get it installed this past week.
One of the things I noticed was that none of the repair videos adequately documented how to route and attach the button for the home keys at the bottom of the screen. I was finally able to get the old home button ribbon cable detached from the phone and pulled free from its location. I noticed that there was still quite a bit of adhesive left on the resting location for the home key pc board (located a few mm in front of the ribbon cable that connects to the lcd assembly.)
I made the mistake of thinking that the adhesive consisted of some form of double sided tape, so using a small blade and a pair of forceps I began removing the adhesive. Turns out, the adhesive was attached to a felt-like material that was covering the back of the LCD. Once removed, I noticed that the section of the screen from which the felt had been removed was slightly discolored.
I proceeded to reassemble the phone with the new glass, and it is working correctly, with one exception:
The entire screen (not just the area where the felt was removed) appears to have a greenish tint to it. This is most notable when booting the phone. The SAMSUNG logo appears as almost a neon green (My wife assures me this should be white) and the booting animation is mostly green (She assures me it was multicolored)
A couple of questions here:
Did the piece of material I removed from the back of the LCD cause this problem, or should I be looking at something else for a solution?
Is there any chance this felt-like material contained the backlighting for the LCD Screen?
If not, could just a small section of missing felt allow enough light to escape to discolor the entire screen?
Also, since I obviously can't replace the felt, would coating the expose area with some form of paint or something work to restore the proper coloring to the phone?
I am currently looking at other replacement lcd assemblies which, from what I can tell, simply involve moving the motherboard from the old phone into the new assembly, connecting it, then putting the back cover onto the phone. If I can afford spending the $100-150 that these cost, I would like to avoid it. If this is my only suitable solution at this time, I would like a definitive answer so that I can make the purchase and get her phone back to working order.
Thank You all for taking the time to read my post, I can post pictures later to elaborate on what I am describing, but my wife and I are both at work at the moment and I don't currently have her phone to take a photo of.
Pictures would be nice. However your back light shouldn't discolor your screen. My guess is you loosed a cable or something else causing the screen to discolor.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
screwyluie said:
Pictures would be nice. However your back light shouldn't discolor your screen. My guess is you loosed a cable or something else causing the screen to discolor.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
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Click to collapse
I will get pictures posted this afternoon. After taking a little more time to look at it earlier today, it appears that Green and Blue colors are working, I just haven't got any red.
Do you know where to find a diagram of what ribbon connectors control what aspect of the phone?
Pictures
A little late, but here are the pictures of my wife's Galaxy S III (i535)
http://goo.gl/TnXkFC
that will give you an idea of the connector for the screen. you say all you did was replace the glass? not the whole screen? I cant imagine how this would happen unless you damaged the ribbon cable when removing the glass.
unless you want to remove the glass again you'll have to take it apart from the rear, which isn't too hard really. take the back cover off, then remove all the little screws you see. that piece of plastic will come off and this is what you'll get: http://imgur.com/WwoOgMP
the red box is the connector, make sure it's seated. i'm not sure you can get all the way to the digitizer panel from the rear, but this is simple enough it's worth trying before removing the glass again.
also there are plenty of youtube videos on how to teardown the sgs3.
on a side note, task killers are bad for your phone.... use Greenify instead, or nothing at all.
(located a few mm in front of the ribbon cable that connects to the lcd assembly.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If this ribbon cable that connects to the LCD was damaged, it might be your problem.
In that case, you will need another LCD.
It's best to buy the LCD and Glass as one piece.
About $120 or more.

[Q] Broken touchscreen, wacky random digitizer.

I'm sad to say I finally destroyed my TF300. It fell from about 6 feet onto tile. The screen is cracked in quite a few places, but luckily it didn't spiderweb. The touchscreen kind of works, I say kind of, because it's touching in random places all over the screen. So my question is, can I possibly unplug the digitizer only since the LCD works fine? That way I can use the keyboard dock's mouse or a USB mouse and still use the device. Thanks in advance for any help.
this happened to me as well. On youtube there are many tutorials of how to replace the screen..
they will show you how to take the back casing off
then you can just unplug the digitizer cable (its the yellow cable with two connections on the bottom right of the back of the tablet) this will disable the touch but if you go that far you might as well replace the whole screen you can get online for $50.
and make sure to take note of the digitizer revision number as asus makes 4 different types and only the one will work on your tablet when you want to fix it...its a number on the digitizer cable either g01 g02 g03 or one other i cant remember off the top of my head
schkeet said:
this happened to me as well. On youtube there are many tutorials of how to replace the screen..
they will show you how to take the back casing off
then you can just unplug the digitizer cable (its the yellow cable with two connections on the bottom right of the back of the tablet) this will disable the touch but if you go that far you might as well replace the whole screen you can get online for $50.
and make sure to take note of the digitizer revision number as asus makes 4 different types and only the one will work on your tablet when you want to fix it...its a number on the digitizer cable either g01 g02 g03 or one other i cant remember off the top of my head
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I meant that I didn't want to fix the display, just disable the digitizer so that I can continue to use the device via HDMI. If I unplug the digitizer, will the LCD still work?
After unplugging the ribbon cable for the digitizer, most of the random touches have stopped. But now, even using the built in touchpad or a USB mouse, touches do not hold and can cause random presses to occur in various parts of the screen. Any ideas?
I'm not sure but could be a different problem? I've done the same to mine and my keyboard dock works just fine
savergn said:
After unplugging the ribbon cable for the digitizer, most of the random touches have stopped. But now, even using the built in touchpad or a USB mouse, touches do not hold and can cause random presses to occur in various parts of the screen. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spontaneous presses? This is at random, some tabs have it, others don't. That ain't from the keyboard; rather from either the digitizer, though detached it might be, or the TS board, or both in close proximity with one another. I've experienced this and still have no idea why. I've had perfectly good dig and TS Board do it when the board is left dangling and not screwed down to the magnesium frame. The only way to stop is to replace the digitizer. Or you can try to yank the dig's ribbons off the glass, as I've noticed ghost touches produced by a dig with partially torn ribbons (on the glass side) that were still connected to the PCB. The dig is not repairable anyways. You're risking nothing.
graphdarnell said:
Spontaneous presses? This is at random, some tabs have it, others don't. That ain't from the keyboard; rather from either the digitizer, though detached it might be, or the TS board, or both in close proximity with one another. I've experienced this and still have no idea why. I've had perfectly good dig and TS Board do it when the board is left dangling and not screwed down to the magnesium frame. The only way to stop is to replace the digitizer. Or you can try to yank the dig's ribbons off the glass, as I've noticed ghost touches produced by a dig with partially torn ribbons (on the glass side) that were still connected to the PCB. The dig is not repairable anyways. You're risking nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you possibly have any photos or tutorials that might be able to help me out so I don't cause anymore damage to the tablet?
savergn said:
Do you possibly have any photos or tutorials that might be able to help me out so I don't cause anymore damage to the tablet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure where to start. If you've taken apart the thing before, i'd be easier. Remove the back. Turn off the service switch (Important). Otherwise, you might burn a coil on the motherboard. If you don't know what that is, look at the top of the motherboard. To the left of the power switch (thin amber ribbon for power on top side and volume on right side), there's a switch mounted on the other side but accessible from the top of the board. You'll see the printing "off" and "on" on this side. Slide it to "off" position. (Thumb attached shows location of switch at top, and where the ribbons should be cut off at bottom).
The ribbon part that's taped to the glass is hidden under the lcd. If you don't care, just snip it off where it meets the lcd edge. There's really no need to remove the lcd if you're not intent on replacing the digitizer. Again, since I am not certain what caused the ghost touches in your cases, it's possible they will continue. Hopefully, they won't. But at this point, the digitizer serves no function other than protecting the lcd surface on the outside. No need to save the ribbons.
To tell you the truth, I've tried using the tab with a dock and no touchscreen. You can live with it, but it's enormous inconvenience any way you use the device, from recoveries to roms to any app within. It's just not designed to be user-friendly that way. I eventually gave up and replaced the digitizer. You can find one for around $35.00 these days.
graphdarnell said:
Not sure where to start. If you've taken apart the thing before, i'd be easier. Remove the back. Turn off the service switch (Important). Otherwise, you might burn a coil on the motherboard. If you don't know what that is, look at the top of the motherboard. To the left of the power switch (thin amber ribbon for power on top side and volume on right side), there's a switch mounted on the other side but accessible from the top of the board. You'll see the printing "off" and "on" on this side. Slide it to "off" position. (Thumb attached shows location of switch at top, and where the ribbons should be cut off at bottom).
The ribbon part that's taped to the glass is hidden under the lcd. If you don't care, just snip it off where it meets the lcd edge. There's really no need to remove the lcd if you're not intent on replacing the digitizer. Again, since I am not certain what caused the ghost touches in your cases, it's possible they will continue. Hopefully, they won't. But at this point, the digitizer serves no function other than protecting the lcd surface on the outside. No need to save the ribbons.
To tell you the truth, I've tried using the tab with a dock and no touchscreen. You can live with it, but it's enormous inconvenience any way you use the device, from recoveries to roms to any app within. It's just not designed to be user-friendly that way. I eventually gave up and replaced the digitizer. You can find one for around $35.00 these days.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for the information.
I don't plan on using it as a daily device, I just picked up my Note 3 the other day, and using the TF300 is going to feel like going back to the stone age. I really just wanted it to have basic functionality, because I still have the HDMI cable for it, and have XBMC and VLC installed on it, so I can play videos easily on my TV. It has Cyanogenmod on it right now, so really, it should be fine for a while. I could probably also hook up my dualshock 3 to it and game on a TV. Portable low-end console. I'll update the thread later if whenever I get around to cutting the ribbon cable. Thanks again.

Need some help on determining the parts needed to fix Z3

I cracked my phone screen yesterday after getting it repaired. ($60) bucks gone. I figured I'd fix it myself. I actually did it. I noticed it wasn't getting any signal at ALL, I always get 4 bars inside my room and I remembered that I had moved the RF cable with the screwdriver that was magnetized. I don't know if that might have been the problem. Well after I put it all back together I fudged the screen and I opened it back up and I discovered this after I took out the battery. Screenshots follow
http://i.imgur.com/OMAE9Yw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/V5sGFpI.jpg
What isnt noticeable is that the metal clip furthest to the bottom that helps hold the RF cable is gone, I couldn't get it back into it. Does that matter? If so I need to get a complete assembly then.
Also note that the LCD screen is not cracked. But it looks like it is bleeding.
What I want to know is 4 things.
1. Is it fixable?
If not, I'll sell on Ebay for parts.
If it is. then do I
2. I want to know what could cause the LCD damage the way it is, is it from pressing to hard underneath it?
3. Do I need a new RF cable?
4. Is there a name for the flex piece that is in the pictures? I know it is tied to the power, volume and camera buttons. If their is a part, I'll take it to a professional this time.
I found the name of the piece, Its called a motherboard Flex cable.
But Im really wanting to know If I need a new RF cable because of touching the end piece with a magnetized screwdriver fizzed it out.
Thank you ahead of time.
I guess you'll need to replace your whole lcd screen along with the digitizer. You could easily get it on EBay.
About your antenna cable. I think it's damaged and that's the reason your not receiving any reception.
Few months back i replaced my lcd screen cause of some touch issue i think i accidentally damaged the antenna cable and now i dont receive reception in my room or college classroom. I have to move out to get reception.

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