I'm trying to replace the screen on my Arrive. But I can't figure out how to get the screen out. It looks like I can pop out the back behind it, but I can't figure out how it disassembles. is there a tutorial out there or something?
To replace the *glass*, which I'm assuming is what you mean (not the LCD - they're separate in this phone, for once!)
Follow the "replace HTC 7 Pro memory card" instructions to remove the first back piece. Next, remove the screws in the next plastic back and remove it as well (it'll be easier to remove as it's just screws and contacts - no clips or wires). At this point you should see an exposed PCB, and your phone's hinge (a set of springs).
Undo the 4 screws holding the hinges on, along with the two screws holding the "pop-up" bezel (there are access holes for them - it'll make sense once you get there).
Slide the hinges across the back of the display (like you were opening the phone, but pull by the hinges! otherwise you'll break the display cable) and you'll see two screws which hold covers onto the back of the display panel. Undo the one for the bottom panel and pry the plastic bottom panel off from the back to gain access to the touchscreen connector.
Next, take a heat gun to your display and pry the glass off - I hope your glass is shattered and that's why you're replacing it because otherwise this is hugely difficult - the glass is glued on and glued on tight!
You'll see the glass is attached via flex cable thru the plastic to a connector inside the back - this is why you had to take your whole phone apart! Carefully lift the tape covering the connector, flip up the connector, and remove the old touchscreen ribbon cable and chip. Thread the new one through and reverse steps to install.
I just used the remainder of the old glue to stick my new display on, by setting it under some heavy books overnight. Your mileage will probably vary - I'm not too picky and a slightly loose/mushy screen beats a shattered one for me so I just left it at that.
Otherwise you'll probably have to figure out how to glue the display glass back on properly.
http://forum.ppcgeeks.com/htc-arrive-7-pro/144512-htc-arrive-disassembly.html
Sent from my PG41200 using XDA Premium App
Generally, I would look for one of the teardowns that have become popular for when devices are first released.....sort of the one-upping of the unboxing video.
I had trouble finding a decent disassembly - the "big" disassembly sites (ifixit etc.) seem to have ignored the Arrive and all I found on YouTube was horrid quality and mostly worthless.
That ppcgeeks thread is definitely the best resource for pics - I found that peeling the metal tape and unplugging the entire display/front piece was unnecessary by exercising some care to not break the ribbons, and I found that I needed to go a step further and remove the bottom (behind the buttons) plastic cover from the display piece to access the touch digitizer flex cable (which was behind some horribly obnoxious yellow tape).
Replace Screen under digitizer
Does anyone have a walk through on how to change the actual screen under the digitizer? I took the whole phone apart, but everything on the screen half of the phone seems to be glued.
I figured i would look around before just prying it open.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Someone please post pics about last steps?
I was able to take hinges out of way but I am not sure if I need to peel off the metalic film. Hence I still have my top cover with glass attached with the back of the phone.
After I reach I have no idea what to do and now putting together my phone without changing broken glass!
Related
All I have right now is this from someone online who said he had the instructions. If anyone has clear outlined pictures to do this, please post it.
Thank you!
"There are additional screws that need to be taken out. You have to pop off the housing on the top that covers the camera and the antenna port. there will be at least 2 more screws there. Then you will carefully have to pop off the back starting at the bottom by where the stylus is and pull that off. There is probably going to be another screw holding the board in place. It has been a few months since i have done this. Then the board comes out and you have 4 more screws these are phillips heads. That will take the back housing off of the front. Then 4 more screws to take the back plate off of the front housing."
Places i've tried to find LCD Digitizer replacement instructions for cracked LCD
The Audiovox PPC-6700 I have has a cracked screen. I got an LCD replacement, but have no detailed instructions on removing the cracked screen. Here are some useful places i've looked at to find the answer to this issue if it helps you:
http://forum.xda-developers.com ... of course why else would I post it here
http://buzzdev.net/component/option...tart,0/index.php?option=com_phorum&Itemid=125
http://forum.brighthand.com
http://www.mobiletechreview.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php
Not the best...but better than nothing....
Here are my own instructions I started... maybe someone else can expand/refine/clean this up. I'm done with this finally. Changing this is possible, but not necessarily easy. There's this tinny like sticker on the OEM LCD in the phone that's a real pain to pull off of the LCD. The pictures are terrible too...sorry...again..something= better than nothing.
In the end, it works...everything except my toggle does not click in like it used to...that's probably because of that rubber piece I did not know about. (A rubber piece fell out when I was taking it apart and I never figured out where it was supposed to go..so if anyone knows where that belongs and how it should be oriented..please post it.)
I took the stylus out.
I took the miniSD plastic blank out/ or miniSD memory card out just in case.
I took the battery cover off.
I took the battery out.
I set the camera lens in between the picture of the flower and the sun in the back.
I took the rubber piece out..there's a little probe looking thing behind it. (Probably was not necessary to take out.)
I took the back camera cover off. (Remove two Philips head screws with a PH0 head.) There are 7 notches holding it in place. [One above sun/flower adjuster, one slightly to the right above the flash hole, one above the rubber piece, one a tiny bit below the rubber piece, 2 on the insides at the bottom of the philips head screws, and one to the right of the speakerphone.]
I took the green circuit board that has camera flash behind the camera cover off. (Pops up off slot after removing one philips head screw.)
I took the camera unit off. (Do not pull up on camera, just pull the green board up off. The camera is sitting there, the board is wired like the camera flash board was plugged in, just pop it off.)
I took the cell phone antenna philips head screw off that is above where the camera was.
I took the 4 torx .050 allen head type size screws out to remove the back plastic cover of the phone off. Be very careful prying this portion apart. There are probably about 14 notches maybe that holds the back plate on. Some say to start trying to pry it apart from the antenna, but I was able to pry it apart from the bottom part of the phone on the antenna side... not where the antenna is. Be extremely careful how you pry this apart. You have to watch out for the speakerphone wires, there is a plug for what I think might be the keyboard and or LCD, the vibrating weight, and the main board itself... you don't want to scratch or sever any of these parts.
I slid the antenna off of the main board. Lift the board and gently pull up and out the black antenna.
I did not take the speakerphone off, but it looks like you have to pull the wire from the board that would still be attached to the back plate. The vibrating weight is also on the backplate.
I took the main board out of the phone. Keep the slider in mind between the IE button and the recorder button on the side of the phone. The black portion on the main board needs to line up with the actual switch you would slide up or down with your thumb on the side of the phone. When pulling the main board out, slide open the keyboard fully/halfway. Watch for a black rubber piece.
I removed the 4 philips head screws that hold the keyboard portion of the phone to the LCD portion of the phone together and lifted them apart. There is a silver/grey tape that you need to pop up the data cable and pull the tape off to completely separate the LCD portion.
I removed the 4 torx screws from behind the LCD screen and carefully took the LCD portion apart.
...ok well it's getting quite annoying to try and write everything I did after this, but it's pretty self explanatory. If it's not, you probably should not be changing your LCD in the first place anyhow. In order to release the LCD ribbon, the plastic piece at the end will need to pop up at an angle..it's kind of like a winch.
Here's a similar phone that gets taken apart if that helps you out in any way.
.........http://www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf
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re
what is the toggle you are refering to? i took mine apart to clean around the screen without any instructions, and everything still works, but the digitizer has had it, where did you get your replacement from?
I got my replacement from eBay. goldelec
The LCD had a weird rainbow thing going on in the center of it, that you can see if you look at it at the right angle and the bottom corner looks bright white when the screen is on for an extensive period of time. Again, it works...better than what I had. I did not get great instructions, but what he sold me worked fine.
The toggle i'm talking about is the button in between the call and hangup buttons on the front face of the phone. That toggle switch just does not seem connected or stiff like it used to be. I can't "click" up/down/left/right or select anything. I am convinced the rubber piece goes behind it somewhere somehow. I just have to take it apart and figure out the orientation of it.
thanks for these pics & instructions, I just replaced with a part from goldelec on ebay as well (though the auction list instructions as part of the deal, they didn't come with my shipment, so your play-by-play was invaluable)...and there's no screws left afterward! Always a good sign.
Maybe this will help some people...
http://wiki.ppcgeeks.com/index.php?title=How_To:Disassemble_your_6700
lcd replacement instructions
www.htclcd.com has a lot of good lcd replacement instructions also
as well as the LCD's
I just took apart two 6700's today (had to replace the buttons on the face and the circuit board underneath so for now I scavenged the parts from my backup phone)
anyway the phone is surprisingly easy to take apart and surprisingly straight forward.
You do not even have to organize the screws as there is ONLY 2 kinds (I like that) and its obvious when to use each as they are very different in size.
a straight head will take out the star bits if your careful (if you have one of those many different jewlers drivers kits you will find one that fits just fine)
OK cover card stylus battery out.
4 screws. 2 dark large at the bottom 2 small silver at the top of the battery cavity (the one on the top right is hidden underneath a small white sticker)
Now the "top" plastic section comes apart. (the area with the camera) make sure the camera switch is ALL THE WAY one way first it will make things easier later.
Lift from the bottom LEFT there is a tab under the black antennae casing and a tab on the right next to the speaker. Pry gently and it will "pop free" don't YANK as the speaker is attached still.
Pop the speaker out (leave it attached no reason to mess with that wee connector.)
Remove the single screw from the center of those board. NOW caution there is a square white soft "seal" around the led do not lose it.
finger tail "pop" the boards out.
Camera module same thing finger nail "pop" the module pops out but those asside.
3 more larger dark screws remove them now.
Now you need to remove the back half the the shell. Lift with force till you have a small opening and start poking at the hold downs till you can work it free. the hang point is again the black antennae housing. This was the most difficult part to remove and it was not that hard. Use care so it will look clean when you put it back together if thats important to you.
Now you see the mother board. one single screw is left silver middle right side (away from antennae)
Time to remove the main board. you need to use CARE here as its "catched" on opposing side (the usb port and ear piece ports) and the Black antenna housing.) and also atached via a short ribbon cable.
Once you have it free SLIDE out the keyboard this will give you a lot more slack to lift up the main board and tilt it sideways.
Peel the tape carefully once its free it will "pop" free using the same style connector as the camera board etc.. used.
remove and put asside.
now remove the 4 screws holding the keyboard to the phone. its free put asside (those are the only 4 that are different just LEAVE them in there holes they will stay if you don't toss it around)
now remove the 4 black screws holding the back of the keyboard housing down. Pop it free (its not hard there are poke holes made for this like flat screwdriver slots)
once you do this the ribbon will slide through the opening no worries.
now act like your breaking a glow stick and "bend" the case sides so the screen can be popped up a little.
lift the orange tape and you will see a different kind of rubbon connector. its white with a tiny black flap. use a finger nail and lift it will ROTATE 90's to vertical. the ribbon cable will now pop free.
now remove the 2 screws holding down the circuit board. remove it and the button pad (this is why you had to lift the screen a little or these won't come out.
Thats it. I did not go further than this but I do not remember it "looking" like it would be hard at all to get the screen and digitizer out.
This is all straight from memory so read ALL this first and adapt as you progress. DO not take it verbatum.
If something does not want to give ASSUME you forgot a screw and be extra diligent to find it before attempting to increase the amount of force you use though sometimes it just "needs" a wee more force.
Good Luck
I should have taken pics which I usually do when I do this again I will take detailed pics.
Ohh dolt reassembly
do everything in reverse. thats it. here are some tips for the tricky spots.
Reinserting the button pad ribbon. IE reconnect the ribbon BEFORE you put it in. its a lot easier. make sure its in all the way push the flap back down push the tape back down. Easy
Rescrewing the keyboard into the main shell. Get it roughly lined up and LOOK INSIDE one of the holes as you wiggle it around. you will see the screw hole quite clearly when it appears. insert and screw down. Do one on the other side easy as pie.
When you put the main board back in you need to make sure the VOLUME slide switch is in the MIDDLE neutral position so it it lines up with the volume slider itself IE it has to move BOTH direction misalign this and it will be jammed one way or the other. Pop it apart and try again.
When you put the final cover back on make sure the SWITCH for the camera is in the same direction as the plastic lever (the actual switch) so that they line up when you snap them together.
thats it. Really not that hard.
It happened to me that the TC fell on the sidewalk face down, so I had to find and replace the screen. Couldn't find any pictorial guide so I decided to share my experience for the benefit of others with the same problem.
Cause: Cell phone shocked, fell down, hit
Symptoms: touch screen works OK, but display has cracks, blackened areas, which are spreading as time goes by.
Screen type : TC combines the matrix sensor (touch) and the LCD in 2 layers, the front touch-glass and shell, and the LCD itself underneath it.
Source of display: I bought via eBay on this source: Asia Bol
http://stores.ebay.com/newasiabol
Cost $70 inc. shipping and arrived within a week and a half. Rumors insists the at below $100 a screen is either factory dropout or refurbished.
Tools needed: Torx screwdriver T5-50, the size can be viewed after removing battery door, at lower corner.
A flat sharp tool ("fish knife") to help open the plastic case, but not too sharp to scratch the phone.
Here are the pictures and some notes:
1. Remove battery case and battery, SIM
2. Remove 2 screws from lower side
3. Prick open the shell with the flat tool
4. Prick open the top shell with the flat tool
5. CAREFUL as there are 2 tiny ribbons from the touch screen/hardware buttons into the PCB, one is held in place with sticky band (keys), the other (digitizer) is locked in-place with a lever, tiny one! - pull them out, not before noticing where they went into and lifting the lever on the smaller one.
6. Take apart the FRONT shell with the flat tool slowly as not to tear ribbons
7. Pull the LCD ribbon out
8. Carefully pull the old screen as it is held in place with sticky gum
9. Clean interior glass of phone if needed, pull out new screen protective sheet and put in place.
10. Connect new screen ribbon, 2 keyboard/jog tiny ribbons
11. Press shells in place
12. Pray you didn't forget anything and load SIM and battery
13. Good luck
more pictures...
following...(please note that where it's marked on the above picture as "jog wheel" - it is not. it's the glass digitizer ribbon.
Excelent work....!!!
Awesome man
Great contribution! You give me hope for the next generation of xda'ers!
Thank you!
Excellent work! Must be added to Polaris wiki page (if it hasn't yet!)
my lcd screen crashed 1 month ago. replaced a new screen for 450 CNY included the handwork fee.
great job.... thanks for sharing
My TC has got a big scratch on the screen (cheers to Jack, my cat who is responsible for that )...
I just ordered a new LCD screen, and by "mistake" i only ordered the digitizer...
Now after reading this post, it seems that I accidentaly did the right thing, since is only the front panel which is scratched and not the LCD itself... Am I correct?
Anyway do i have to disassemble the whole phone to get the front panel out???
As you see on the completly dismanteled TC picture above (left on the last picts row), there are:
Glass top, actually the outer top shell, and the LCD & Digitizer are one piece (the 'glassy' square with flat orange attachement)
If the scratch in on the shell glass, that's not the LCD screen, it is the so called "LCD LENS GLASS" or "faceplate".
If the TC fell and you see cracks and smears on the screen instead of what should be displayed, that's the LCD.
Please make sure where your scratches are.
Reuvenm said:
As you see on the completly dismanteled TC picture above (left on the last picts row), there are:
Glass top, actually the outer top shell, and the LCD & Digitizer are one piece (the 'glassy' square with flat orange attachement)
If the scratch in on the shell glass, that's not the LCD screen, it is the so called "LCD LENS GLASS" or "faceplate".
If the TC fell and you see cracks and smears on the screen instead of what should be displayed, that's the LCD.
Please make sure where your scratches are.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the Info,you ve been very helpful .... Well my scratch is on the outside and I couldnt find any outside faceplate for my TC... Instead I ordered the digitizer (see picture attached) which for me it seemed as the right option (I did that before reading your post )... Now I will just have to wait and see when it comes, if i did the right thing........ I will let you know
well, I was (and still) confused as I was looking for some info about the screen assembly, and the only one I've found was on this lab site (not particular to TC model though).
Please read the paragraph in RED starting with "ATTENTION..." later on that page (the link above includes Google's translation from russian).
More confusing is that the part you mention here IS available as is...
puzzle solved.
I was curious so I dismantled the TC again, than I notice the the glass shell IS carrying a tiny ribbon, which means IT IS the digitizer (I though it's coming from the hardware keys).
So I assume you ordered the right part.
Reuvenm said:
puzzle solved.
I was curious so I dismantled the TC again, than I notice the the glass shell IS carrying a tiny ribbon, which means IT IS the digitizer (I though it's coming from the hardware keys).
So I assume you ordered the right part.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cheers... I feel ever so glad!!! ... but you would recon I would have to go through all the procedure to get it out and install the new one?
Actually it's a very delicate work with a steady hand and non scratching behaviour.
points to notice:
- The side silver bars are detached by sliding as well as pulling gently, as there are L shaped pins coming out of them into a niche in the body.
- The glass digitizer ribbon is run from one side of the main board into the other, so unlocking it (small lever and pull out) is needed as well as having the upper and rear shell apart as much as allowed, Or having the LCD wide ribbon out (& digitizer small one) and let the 2 shells free for easy access.
Saying that, it means that the procedure is almost identical as for replacing the LCD as the glass/digitizer is attached to front glass with sticky rubber and you need to get in there to release the tiny ribbon.
In your case I assume you also have to pull the bottom hardware keys' plate (assembly), in order to release it from the old shell/glass.
If that is the case, be carefull as the assembly is pinched into place by fragile plastic bumps that keep it in tight place in order to make a good push action (click). You'll have to widen the shell sides a bit and help it out.
! bent ribbon, and some mulfunction may occure.
Awesome Guide, Reuvenm you're the MAN!
I'd been searching all over for this guide so as to attempt to remove both the front and back camera. My Company just implemented this silly policy that doesn't allow phone w camera
Reuvenm, by any chance that you've had a good look at both the front and back camera and if it's a type which can be un-plug easily? Pls do not bother to disassemble the TC again, really. Just wanna check cos you may have shot some other pics of your disassembled gem that may show the front and back cameras
Anyway, great job and thanks a bunch in advance
you can disable the camera by software & registry, but I guess they want it to be out of sight..
as you see on the left pict on the first row of images, the front camera is a cubic aparatuse with 3-wings circle in the middle, just underneath the ext GPS antena hole:
this can be pulled out but I think it's ribbon (connection flat wires) is going via a cooling metal plate element and then to a PCB connector. Not sure about that as it's very delicate in there.
as for the back camera, I can't recall
here is a close up:
Hi Reuvenm, thanks for the really quick reply. Yeah i wanna get them removed altogether. So I took a leap of faith and viola! I had gotten the Back camera (3M pixel cam) out!
Followed the steps as you had illustrated and yes the 3M pixel camera was attached using some kind of L-shape flat metallic ribbon cable that ends up w a PCB connector. Wasn't difficult to remove though. I'll try to disassemble the Front camera tomorrow when i've got the time cos got to catch up on some work now.
A really big THANK YOU to Reuvenm for posting this amazing guide and i'll get some shots of the Front Cam removal and post them back here again.
Outstanding work man
You really got the guts gotta say
Elegantly done and explained!! I copied this guide with pics for future reference
This opens the door for a whole new era I guess, right guys!?
glass deformation
Hello gusy
Can you give me a suggestion ?
One day i noticed this "stain" on my screen when the device is off.
At first i thought it was liquid traped insinde the lcd (as seen on other phones) but it turned out not to be.
This stain is visible only in bright neon light (at my workplace), and it moves or dissapears almost completly when i press the screen.
Outside, or in normal light the sceen has no problem.
I think that the top glass part of the screen is to big and it bends a little causing this.
Can i remove the top layer of glass, cutt let's say a half of milimiter from the side, and stick it back on ? or is there someting holding it under ?
I noticed that in a corner i could peal it off, but i don;t want to take any chances to breack something.
thanks in advance
My Tab 2 7 had a swirling crack on the digitizer (touchscreen). Looked for a tutorial on how to replace it in vain. Saw the teardown at Tech Republic, but that's it. No mention anywhere that I could find about how to do it. Decided to bite the bullet and ventured to fit a new one. Successful. Wrote down a quick guide thinking it might help someone since I saw a bunch of tabs with smashed digitizers on Ebay. Some claim it's gorilla glass, which makes me kind of wonder why they shatter so readily. I know, gorilla glass only scratch-resistant, but still...
Samsung sticks the digitizer to the bezel-frame with a tough double-sided tape, similar to the kind Asus uses on its tabs. A tutorial for the Tab 2 10 shows the use of a putty knife to scrape the digitizer off its frame, which wouldn't work with the 7, as its bezel-frame almost totally covers the edge of the glass back side. On the other hand, inserting anything metal in between from the front would scuff it badly.
The LCD display was taped to the magnesium frame, but is separate from the touchscreen, which need not be removed when replacing the digitizer.
What you need to do is to follow the steps in the teardown referred to above. As Tech Republic correctly pointed out, the internal layout is quite neat, unlike some of the tabs I've had the chance to disassemble. There are many thin cables, however, and you need to proceed with patience.
You must remove all components, so that only the frame with the digitizer and LCD is left. Eventually, you'd have to employ some source of heat, be it a heat gun, a hair dryer or a heat lamp to soften or to some extent melt the adhesive of the digitizer. Leaving any electronic component in place and the heat might destroy it. You can use brute force to separate the digitizer from the frame, but you'd more likely than not damage the LCD in the process.
What I did was use a heat gun at ~500 F, held at about 1 to 2 inches from the edge of the digitizer, and went back and forth over it, one side at a time, for no more than 30 to 35 seconds. I used a blunt object to push the glass out at spots plainly visible as illustrated in the attached thumbs below, then slid a plastic tool with a flared end to pry it from the bezel along its edge. Be careful how you handle the frame, since it would get burning hot at this point. As I moved from one side to another, I wedged a guitar pick between the glass and the frame to prevent them from sticking back together. You might pulverize parts of the glass as you go along, but in general it flexes quite a bit and wouldn't shatter.
Once you get it out, you need to remove the residual tape on the frame. The digitizer I bought was lined with new tape so I didn't have use any extra adhesive. It doesn't bind as strongly as the original tape, but enough to hold everything in place.
Putting it back is just the reverse. I took the extra step of reassembling the whole thing first with just the digitizer hanging loose, plugged it in, turned the tab on to make sure it functioned correctly before bonding it to the frame.
Basically, the process is nothing new. However, just the fact that someone has done it might give confidence to other DIYers in the future. Feel free to ask if any questions.
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/cracking-open-the-samsung-galaxy-tab-2-70/6360139?
Thanks im going to give it a go. Any walkthrough tips by anyone else appreciated
Replacing the digitizer on this device is among the easiest ive seen. With no heat or taking anything off except the back I fixed one with only an isesamo
To make a long story short, my wife dropped her Samsung Galaxy S3 i535 phone a couple weeks ago and shattered the front glass. I ordered the replacement glass on eBay and proceeded to get it installed this past week.
One of the things I noticed was that none of the repair videos adequately documented how to route and attach the button for the home keys at the bottom of the screen. I was finally able to get the old home button ribbon cable detached from the phone and pulled free from its location. I noticed that there was still quite a bit of adhesive left on the resting location for the home key pc board (located a few mm in front of the ribbon cable that connects to the lcd assembly.)
I made the mistake of thinking that the adhesive consisted of some form of double sided tape, so using a small blade and a pair of forceps I began removing the adhesive. Turns out, the adhesive was attached to a felt-like material that was covering the back of the LCD. Once removed, I noticed that the section of the screen from which the felt had been removed was slightly discolored.
I proceeded to reassemble the phone with the new glass, and it is working correctly, with one exception:
The entire screen (not just the area where the felt was removed) appears to have a greenish tint to it. This is most notable when booting the phone. The SAMSUNG logo appears as almost a neon green (My wife assures me this should be white) and the booting animation is mostly green (She assures me it was multicolored)
A couple of questions here:
Did the piece of material I removed from the back of the LCD cause this problem, or should I be looking at something else for a solution?
Is there any chance this felt-like material contained the backlighting for the LCD Screen?
If not, could just a small section of missing felt allow enough light to escape to discolor the entire screen?
Also, since I obviously can't replace the felt, would coating the expose area with some form of paint or something work to restore the proper coloring to the phone?
I am currently looking at other replacement lcd assemblies which, from what I can tell, simply involve moving the motherboard from the old phone into the new assembly, connecting it, then putting the back cover onto the phone. If I can afford spending the $100-150 that these cost, I would like to avoid it. If this is my only suitable solution at this time, I would like a definitive answer so that I can make the purchase and get her phone back to working order.
Thank You all for taking the time to read my post, I can post pictures later to elaborate on what I am describing, but my wife and I are both at work at the moment and I don't currently have her phone to take a photo of.
Pictures would be nice. However your back light shouldn't discolor your screen. My guess is you loosed a cable or something else causing the screen to discolor.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
screwyluie said:
Pictures would be nice. However your back light shouldn't discolor your screen. My guess is you loosed a cable or something else causing the screen to discolor.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will get pictures posted this afternoon. After taking a little more time to look at it earlier today, it appears that Green and Blue colors are working, I just haven't got any red.
Do you know where to find a diagram of what ribbon connectors control what aspect of the phone?
Pictures
A little late, but here are the pictures of my wife's Galaxy S III (i535)
http://goo.gl/TnXkFC
that will give you an idea of the connector for the screen. you say all you did was replace the glass? not the whole screen? I cant imagine how this would happen unless you damaged the ribbon cable when removing the glass.
unless you want to remove the glass again you'll have to take it apart from the rear, which isn't too hard really. take the back cover off, then remove all the little screws you see. that piece of plastic will come off and this is what you'll get: http://imgur.com/WwoOgMP
the red box is the connector, make sure it's seated. i'm not sure you can get all the way to the digitizer panel from the rear, but this is simple enough it's worth trying before removing the glass again.
also there are plenty of youtube videos on how to teardown the sgs3.
on a side note, task killers are bad for your phone.... use Greenify instead, or nothing at all.
(located a few mm in front of the ribbon cable that connects to the lcd assembly.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If this ribbon cable that connects to the LCD was damaged, it might be your problem.
In that case, you will need another LCD.
It's best to buy the LCD and Glass as one piece.
About $120 or more.
Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Maybe these vids from JerryRigEverything can help you out.
Good luck!
Sent from my HTC U12+ using XDA Labs
https://tinyurl.com/htcu12
Just replaced mine
majomathes said:
Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just replaced mine yesterday and it was more difficult than any other one I've done in the past. Anyway I never found one single video on YouTube that showed the screen removal and pretty much had to play it by ear. There are a few videos that show the disassembly of the U12+ and each stops before removing the screen. My advice is to remove everything from the frame, I managed to piece together enough from the videos to know there are 15 screws to remove, one video said 14 but there's one more that's hidden until you've gotten under the motherboard holding the front facing cameras. Knowing I wanted to keep it simple I didn't remove all of the antenna wires, there's one at the bottom that's under the speaker cover that I left attached so I only disconnected it from the motherboard. Then the other I only disconnected near the vibrator, leaving it connected at the motherboard, so each piece had one wire that stayed connected. Meanwhile you'll have to undo every other plug on the device and with a little persuasion everything fell out. (Don't attempt to remove the button/pressure sensing strips along the sides!) Once you are down to the frame, and for me the ear piece speaker, I used a heat gun to soften the bond between the glass and the frame. It doesn't loosen up very easily, they are really bonded together. I got most of it and then began to chip away at the broken glass. You'll want a good heat gun for this part. I had to set mine to 300F to really get it to loosen up and then work mm by mm around the edge getting all of the glass and glue out of the track. This probably took me a half hour or more. I used E6000 glue but only because I would have had to order B7000 or any other recommended glue. E6000 is a good glue but just because many of the other videos I watched used B7000 I would have liked to use it too.
To install the new screen I used a syringe filled with my glue to follow the small glue track around the edge of the frame. Don't worry about squeeze out because this glue is very forgiving and wipes away easily with IPA Alcohol and a rag. I followed the old glue placement, adding a little extra near the bottom corners and a dab around the ear piece speaker holes. Then it's just reversing the process to assemble the electronics. Now here is another word of warning, the plugs are so small and some are not easy to align but be sure they snap into place and are flat when installed. I made the mistake of not getting the display plug flat and had to do a partial disassembly to correct the issue.
I didn't glue the back on but think I might today just to try and achieve the waterproof level the phone shipped with. You may have to glue yours but I had previously broken the back and already replaced it and the replacement came with a double sided adhesive strip that was still pretty sticky. If I remember correctly the original back was glued on and probably wouldn't have stuck if I had tried to just replace the back as I did.
One other note. After being disassembled and pulling the battery my finger print scanner didn't want to work. In fact it didn't even show up in the menu when I went looking for it but restarting the phone again caused it to show up. My advantage with the double sided adhesive was I was able to test everything and use the phone for a full day before committing to gluing the back on. Now that I know everything is working, the phone is charging and it all seems good I can glue the back on.
Best of luck