Hello! I tried searching but there is too much clutter and I can't find a specific answer.
First, my tft300 had a G03 digitizer that broke. I already took it appart and managed to tear a small ribbon cable on the left corner of the lcd (underneath the black tape.
I found a complete assembly of the lcd, framr and digitizer but it is a G01 digitizer.
The board where the connectors go in says JE301 and J6302. Touch panel version says ELAN-3011-4822. Would a G01 work with my hardware or do I strictly have to go with G03?
Also I have found G03+lcd combo but the lcd is different. It says Rev. 2, mine is Rev. 4. Does this difference in lcd matter? Are they practically the same?
Thanks!
m0nkey34 said:
Hello! I tried searching but there is too much clutter and I can't find a specific answer.
First, my tft300 had a G03 digitizer that broke. I already took it appart and managed to tear a small ribbon cable on the left corner of the lcd (underneath the black tape.
I found a complete assembly of the lcd, framr and digitizer but it is a G01 digitizer.
The board where the connectors go in says JE301 and J6302. Touch panel version says ELAN-3011-4822. Would a G01 work with my hardware or do I strictly have to go with G03?
Also I have found G03+lcd combo but the lcd is different. It says Rev. 2, mine is Rev. 4. Does this difference in lcd matter? Are they practically the same?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The G01 will work as a replacement for the G03 fine. As to the lcd, you will need to load a picture. The rev. does not matter, but the position of the connector does. If you have to adjust it to fit, that's not good. About the one with the broken connector, if you'd like to donate it for experimentation, let me know. It's never a good idea to remove the lcd the way someone did it on youtube, i.e., remove the backframe, then the glass, then the frontframe. It's almost guaranteed to damage the lcd in some way.
graphdarnell said:
The G01 will work as a replacement for the G03 fine. As to the lcd, you will need to load a picture. The rev. does not matter, but the position of the connector does. If you have to adjust it to fit, that's not good. About the one with the broken connector, if you'd like to donate it for experimentation, let me know. It's never a good idea to remove the lcd the way someone did it on youtube, i.e., remove the backframe, then the glass, then the frontframe. It's almost guaranteed to damage the lcd in some way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I followed that damn video that has the letters on the bottom. It has no sound or text warnings as to be carefull with that black tape on that corner where the cable is. Thatd $60+ right there....
Related
I accidentally broke a 1cm strip at the top of LCD on my Touch Cruise, not the touchscreen but the underlying LCD.
Do I have any options apart from replacing the phone?
Not realy...
karlth said:
I accidentally broke a 1cm strip at the top of LCD on my Touch Cruise, not the touchscreen but the underlying LCD.
Do I have any options apart from replacing the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how did it happened ?
eami said:
how did it happened ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was in my jacket pocket and hit a side of a garden bench. Not a major blow but enough to crack it. Then again I always felt that it wasn't particularly well glued/screwed together (Mine was from the first batch of phones).
Strange because my old HTC Prophet seemed to be able to withstand any punishment.
is it the digitizer that broke or the screen as well ?
digitizer
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LCD-TOUCH-SCR...ryZ41343QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
screen
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-LCD-FOR-H...photoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
both are in decent price i guess
Brilliant
I'll order one immediately.
Is there anywhere in the net a "how to" that shows me how to open the Orbit II?
Not that I'm aware of but I'm expecting instructions with the LCD when I receive it.
most sellers don't provide instructions to disassemble, especially if off eBay.
Look at this...
Hey,
look in this Thread, maybe that this could help you.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=392301
Frank
Hello,
I just bought a touch screen for diamond and i am wondering to know if i can replace it without replace the lcd screen!!!
ferrari373 said:
Hello,
I just bought a touch screen for diamond and i am wondering to know if i can replace it without replace the lcd screen!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have replaced several screens on Touch Diamonds, however the LCD matrix appears to actually be stuck onto the digitiser and the LCD itself is very very fragile. I usually replace the whole unit (LCD screen and digitiser) because it is much easier. You can purchase these from various sellers in Hong Kong on Ebay.
I have allready bought a touch screen but not the lcd screen!!! Do u have a guide or something that shows how to change it???
ferrari373 said:
I have allready bought a touch screen but not the lcd screen!!! Do u have a guide or something that shows how to change it???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My recommendation would be to re-sell the touch screen and buy yourself a complete LCD & digitiser module. It is much much easier to do. In terms of taking the phone apart, it is fairly straight forward. Be careful with the small co-axial cables inside though, because they are easily damaged and difficult to obtain without replacing the antenna board. Re-connecting the ribbon cables can also be a bit fiddly.
The LCD and digitiser are glued into the front of the phone. You will need to disassemble the phone and then very carefully using a plastic flat blade, ease the LCD out of the front of the phone housing. It will come out with a little bit of care. There should be enough glue remaining in the housing to re-seat the replacement unit and hold it in place.
If you google you should be able to find the HTC Diamond service manual which tells you how to take the phone apart and re-assemble it. I have a copy, so if you can't track it down, PM and I will e-mail it to you.
Andy
Hi,
To barncourt, how is the build quality of those honk kong made screens?
also a lot of the screen+digitizer that i have seen on ebay all have the front facing camera. would it be possible to use that screen even though my diamond is the one that has no front facing camera?
Of course, it is just a hole
p.brazauskas said:
Hi,
To barncourt, how is the build quality of those honk kong made screens?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, but I tend to buy from the same seller. Not had any particular problems.
barncourt said:
Okay, but I tend to buy from the same seller. Not had any particular problems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi I wanna know can you share your supplier adress with us ?
I'm looking for a LCD+digitizer and what I see is not something giving confidence...
So if you can give us some real-tested place to start...
Also I've dismantle the phone but it's quite hard to take the screen+digitizer away...
it's seems completely fixed with the housing does some one got s pics or guide on how to dismantle and replace the screen
(The HTC service guide you can see here and there just don't deal with the screen.)
and when I started just broke my screen (which was already broken anyway so...)
http://www.fuelip.com/howto/diamondlcd/diamondlcd.htm
I followed that guide and replaced my screen. I have one last problem though - I can't fit back my power button. It's made of two parts the black plastic cover and the transparent rubber. How do you stick them together? I'ts funny that I took my whole diamond apart with all the cables and boards and now I can not figure out how to fix a silly button
Hi,
I have just replaced LCD and digitizer of my HTC raph (first time) and there seems to be some kind of problem. It turns on, but the screen shows nothing just lights up a little bit and there are some stripes visible as if the lcd would be broken, but it's brand new. The stripes changes a bit as i press some buttons or touch the screen so the phone and touchscreen are working - the problem is with LCD.
I don't know if i put all the conducting tape to the places it originaly was. Could that be a problem? I double checked all the connections but still, might be a contacts problem?
Any thoughts on what might cause this?
Also the phone got kind of hot after having it charged for some time, is that normal?
Of course, this may be caused by a bad connection (but rather hard to go wrong slot), but at a distance hard to say something more concrete.
Best to check with the new flex.
Thank you for the answer, i will try changing the main flex.
The flex cables can touch eachother right? Since they're originally covered with conductive tape.
BTW, i also intend to change the lcd + digitizer... my question is:
how to apply the digitzier? lcd and digitizer came separated - do i have to solder/glue or whatever the flex (of lcd & digi.)?
The original was something like sticked together... reminds me on sellotape aka Scotch Tape.
Can you give me a some help?
thanks
The ribbons must be solded together, there's 4 contacts on them and they should not touch eachother.
A few weeks ago, an unfortunate accident let to my Asus TF300T's screen being broken. While bad, what's worse is the digitizer broke as well, and it no longer receives touch input. After scouring the internet for a replacement, I have learned that there are a couple versions of the display, and they are incompatible with each other. But the problem is, the flex cable on my tablet does not indicate which version it is.
Attached is a picture of the flex cable. There is no text on the back of it. Is there something I am missing? Could someone point me in the right direction as to which version I need to fix it? Many thanks!
tubbis9001 said:
A few weeks ago, an unfortunate accident let to my Asus TF300T's screen being broken. While bad, what's worse is the digitizer broke as well, and it no longer receives touch input. After scouring the internet for a replacement, I have learned that there are a couple versions of the display, and they are incompatible with each other. But the problem is, the flex cable on my tablet does not indicate which version it is.
Attached is a picture of the flex cable. There is no text on the back of it. Is there something I am missing? Could someone point me in the right direction as to which version I need to fix it? Many thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you get the information that there are different versions of the touchscreen that are not compatible with the tablet? Whatever the case, it shouldn't matter (GO1 or GO3) since you need either one to work with your TS board, not with each other. Search around to determine if it's just the screen that's bad; look at this THREAD for example. There is a thread somewhere claiming that different firmwares are required for different screens, but that's not to say that any of them is incompatible with your TS board (provided it's still working) since you can flash various firmwares for various screens to the same TS board.
I have read through the linked thread and one member states that the panel with "5158N FPC-1" on the flex cable is indeed the G03 version. It doesn't look like many people carry this version, but I will look around and report my results to this thread in a few weeks time. (or days, if I can find a seller in the US)
tubbis9001 said:
I have read through the linked thread and one member states that the panel with "5158N FPC-1" on the flex cable is indeed the G03 version. It doesn't look like many people carry this version, but I will look around and report my results to this thread in a few weeks time. (or days, if I can find a seller in the US)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ebay has quite a few US sellers of this thing for around 70 bucks. If you're not sure, I know a repair technician here who ordered a GO1 screen for a customer who never showed up. It's tested and he'd let it go for 55-60, but the difficulty is in the replacing. It's delicate work (I've done it myself so I know), and the TS board is known to be finicky and can quit altogether if not handled properly. If you're not confident of your skills, you should leave it to someone who knows what they're doing.
The biggest problem while trying to replace the screen is trying to separate the Digitizer from the LCD (if the LCD still works) There is some really sticky tape that bonds the two together and if you aren't super careful, you will break the LCD (like I did LOL). I ended up having to get a new Digitizer AND LCD and got them at different times. When it was all said and done, I blew close to $150 since I bought them both separately. If you can find both LCD and digitizer as a set for less than $100 I would buy that rather than just getting the Digitizer for $30 less and risk breaking the LCD in the process.
That's just my 2 cents.
hardslog said:
The biggest problem while trying to replace the screen is trying to separate the Digitizer from the LCD (if the LCD still works) There is some really sticky tape that bonds the two together and if you aren't super careful, you will break the LCD (like I did LOL). I ended up having to get a new Digitizer AND LCD and got them at different times. When it was all said and done, I blew close to $150 since I bought them both separately. If you can find both LCD and digitizer as a set for less than $100 I would buy that rather than just getting the Digitizer for $30 less and risk breaking the LCD in the process.
That's just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have already separated the LCD and digitizer successfully. (well, almost successfully. the knife I used to separate the tape slipped and I gashed my finger pretty bad. But the important part came out completely fine...not even a fingerprint!
You say you can get the digitizer for 30 bucks? The lowest Ive seen them on Ebay for is about 70 dollars.
tubbis9001 said:
I have already separated the LCD and digitizer successfully. (well, almost successfully. the knife I used to separate the tape slipped and I gashed my finger pretty bad. But the important part came out completely fine...not even a fingerprint!
You say you can get the digitizer for 30 bucks? The lowest Ive seen them on Ebay for is about 70 dollars.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure why you cared to separate the two since both were mentioned broken in your first post. The only thing you need is the plastic bezel glued to the digitizer.
graphdarnell said:
I'm not sure why you cared to separate the two since both were mentioned broken in your first post. The only thing you need is the plastic bezel glued to the digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saved the LCD display, since it works perfectly fine. The digitizer/glass on the other hand, which was already broken, was hopelessly shattered in the process. That is the part that needs replacing.
The plastic bezel/screen is the same as the digitizer. It's all one piece. Nah cheapest digitizer is around 70 but some places i think sold both for $100 ish.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using xda app-developers app
hardslog said:
The plastic bezel/screen is the same as the digitizer. It's all one piece. Nah cheapest digitizer is around 70 but some places i think sold both for $100 ish.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Despite what hardslog says, I must caution you again that the bezel and digitizer are two separate parts bonded together by a double-sided strip. A new digitizer doesn't come with the bezel. If you throw it away now, the back cover will not cover the whole tab at the front later on. Now if hardslog can vouch for an lcd/Touchscreen combo for around 100, you should ask him for referrals. He'd be doing a great service to other members as well since quite a few have looked hard for that item and couldn't find it anywhere to buy.
We might be a little confused with each other on the terminology being used. If by bezel you mean the very outer part of the screen (the 1/3cm or so black border thing around it, as in NOT the black part that says "ASUS" on it) then yes that is a separate piece. I thought people were referring to the digitizer and the clear screen (as in the part that you touch) as being the same thing. Does that make sense?
Sorry it seems prices have gone up even more since I replaced my screen (4-5 months ago). Don't listen to me when I said $100.
There was this place - dunno how reliable they are. But they are out of stock anyway https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/model/ASUS/EEE~PAD~TRANSFORMER~TF300-B1-BL~TABLET/ Still $130 when it was in stock
I'm sad to say I finally destroyed my TF300. It fell from about 6 feet onto tile. The screen is cracked in quite a few places, but luckily it didn't spiderweb. The touchscreen kind of works, I say kind of, because it's touching in random places all over the screen. So my question is, can I possibly unplug the digitizer only since the LCD works fine? That way I can use the keyboard dock's mouse or a USB mouse and still use the device. Thanks in advance for any help.
this happened to me as well. On youtube there are many tutorials of how to replace the screen..
they will show you how to take the back casing off
then you can just unplug the digitizer cable (its the yellow cable with two connections on the bottom right of the back of the tablet) this will disable the touch but if you go that far you might as well replace the whole screen you can get online for $50.
and make sure to take note of the digitizer revision number as asus makes 4 different types and only the one will work on your tablet when you want to fix it...its a number on the digitizer cable either g01 g02 g03 or one other i cant remember off the top of my head
schkeet said:
this happened to me as well. On youtube there are many tutorials of how to replace the screen..
they will show you how to take the back casing off
then you can just unplug the digitizer cable (its the yellow cable with two connections on the bottom right of the back of the tablet) this will disable the touch but if you go that far you might as well replace the whole screen you can get online for $50.
and make sure to take note of the digitizer revision number as asus makes 4 different types and only the one will work on your tablet when you want to fix it...its a number on the digitizer cable either g01 g02 g03 or one other i cant remember off the top of my head
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I meant that I didn't want to fix the display, just disable the digitizer so that I can continue to use the device via HDMI. If I unplug the digitizer, will the LCD still work?
After unplugging the ribbon cable for the digitizer, most of the random touches have stopped. But now, even using the built in touchpad or a USB mouse, touches do not hold and can cause random presses to occur in various parts of the screen. Any ideas?
I'm not sure but could be a different problem? I've done the same to mine and my keyboard dock works just fine
savergn said:
After unplugging the ribbon cable for the digitizer, most of the random touches have stopped. But now, even using the built in touchpad or a USB mouse, touches do not hold and can cause random presses to occur in various parts of the screen. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spontaneous presses? This is at random, some tabs have it, others don't. That ain't from the keyboard; rather from either the digitizer, though detached it might be, or the TS board, or both in close proximity with one another. I've experienced this and still have no idea why. I've had perfectly good dig and TS Board do it when the board is left dangling and not screwed down to the magnesium frame. The only way to stop is to replace the digitizer. Or you can try to yank the dig's ribbons off the glass, as I've noticed ghost touches produced by a dig with partially torn ribbons (on the glass side) that were still connected to the PCB. The dig is not repairable anyways. You're risking nothing.
graphdarnell said:
Spontaneous presses? This is at random, some tabs have it, others don't. That ain't from the keyboard; rather from either the digitizer, though detached it might be, or the TS board, or both in close proximity with one another. I've experienced this and still have no idea why. I've had perfectly good dig and TS Board do it when the board is left dangling and not screwed down to the magnesium frame. The only way to stop is to replace the digitizer. Or you can try to yank the dig's ribbons off the glass, as I've noticed ghost touches produced by a dig with partially torn ribbons (on the glass side) that were still connected to the PCB. The dig is not repairable anyways. You're risking nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you possibly have any photos or tutorials that might be able to help me out so I don't cause anymore damage to the tablet?
savergn said:
Do you possibly have any photos or tutorials that might be able to help me out so I don't cause anymore damage to the tablet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure where to start. If you've taken apart the thing before, i'd be easier. Remove the back. Turn off the service switch (Important). Otherwise, you might burn a coil on the motherboard. If you don't know what that is, look at the top of the motherboard. To the left of the power switch (thin amber ribbon for power on top side and volume on right side), there's a switch mounted on the other side but accessible from the top of the board. You'll see the printing "off" and "on" on this side. Slide it to "off" position. (Thumb attached shows location of switch at top, and where the ribbons should be cut off at bottom).
The ribbon part that's taped to the glass is hidden under the lcd. If you don't care, just snip it off where it meets the lcd edge. There's really no need to remove the lcd if you're not intent on replacing the digitizer. Again, since I am not certain what caused the ghost touches in your cases, it's possible they will continue. Hopefully, they won't. But at this point, the digitizer serves no function other than protecting the lcd surface on the outside. No need to save the ribbons.
To tell you the truth, I've tried using the tab with a dock and no touchscreen. You can live with it, but it's enormous inconvenience any way you use the device, from recoveries to roms to any app within. It's just not designed to be user-friendly that way. I eventually gave up and replaced the digitizer. You can find one for around $35.00 these days.
graphdarnell said:
Not sure where to start. If you've taken apart the thing before, i'd be easier. Remove the back. Turn off the service switch (Important). Otherwise, you might burn a coil on the motherboard. If you don't know what that is, look at the top of the motherboard. To the left of the power switch (thin amber ribbon for power on top side and volume on right side), there's a switch mounted on the other side but accessible from the top of the board. You'll see the printing "off" and "on" on this side. Slide it to "off" position. (Thumb attached shows location of switch at top, and where the ribbons should be cut off at bottom).
The ribbon part that's taped to the glass is hidden under the lcd. If you don't care, just snip it off where it meets the lcd edge. There's really no need to remove the lcd if you're not intent on replacing the digitizer. Again, since I am not certain what caused the ghost touches in your cases, it's possible they will continue. Hopefully, they won't. But at this point, the digitizer serves no function other than protecting the lcd surface on the outside. No need to save the ribbons.
To tell you the truth, I've tried using the tab with a dock and no touchscreen. You can live with it, but it's enormous inconvenience any way you use the device, from recoveries to roms to any app within. It's just not designed to be user-friendly that way. I eventually gave up and replaced the digitizer. You can find one for around $35.00 these days.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for the information.
I don't plan on using it as a daily device, I just picked up my Note 3 the other day, and using the TF300 is going to feel like going back to the stone age. I really just wanted it to have basic functionality, because I still have the HDMI cable for it, and have XBMC and VLC installed on it, so I can play videos easily on my TV. It has Cyanogenmod on it right now, so really, it should be fine for a while. I could probably also hook up my dualshock 3 to it and game on a TV. Portable low-end console. I'll update the thread later if whenever I get around to cutting the ribbon cable. Thanks again.