Just got my replacement parts for two TF300 (these things are not meant for kids - their screens crack like there's no tomorrow).
One has a broken digitizer, the other one has broken both LCD and digitzier), so I have orders 2xG01 digitizers and 1 LCD screen HannStar HSD101PWW1 + 8mm double-sided 3M black adhesive.
I have started to work with the latter unit this weekend and here's two things that got me:
1) My question: Is it okay that the shipped LCD works but looks different than the original? The good thing is that it works. My concern is that it does not have the metal frame, but instead it's just taped around with a black tape.
I have noticed that it causes the digitizer to "stick out", i.e. it does not adhere well to the plastic frame, while it sits tight in the TF300 metal(magnesium) frame.
Should I swap out the double-sided foam tape for something thinner?
I've used the regular stregth 3M double-sided tape, which I have sliced into 2 mm stripes with Exacto knife.
Just food for thought after doing a few screens.. I actually used black electrical tape to make sure there is no light bleed.. By strapping the sides it seems to pull it all together and so far on a couple I have done they have come up well..
I agree with no light bleed when the LCD is black taped around, but the digitizer placement seems to be off (i.e. it sticks to far out to hold onto the plastic bezel/frame, in spite of me cleaning it all up and re-applying the 8mm double-sided 3M black tape).
Problem with opening it up all the time is the fine dust.. I did one on the tf201 the other day and had to reopen it to get a spec out..wasnt happy after closing it up and just up on the upper right I could see it under the glass..if urs works and it closes fine then leave it as you could do more damage then it worth playing around with it
Related
Hello people
The membrane on my touch pro (the one covering the buttons below the screen) is starting to peel off. Its almost unnoticeable at the moment, smaller than a millimeter but it seems it could go off more
Apart from getting some sort of case (i.e. a silicone one) anything else I could do in order to avoid it?
Should I just peel it completely off just to get it off my mind?!
It will keep peeling. Especially from pulling and putting back in your pocket. Its VERY common.
2 options
1 replace the entire button pad. (pretty cheap on ebay)
2 take a small bit of super glue to the corners to keep it from curling up. (looks a little ugly because the corners will still be discolored from being peeled in the first place.)
Ive thought about peeling the entire thing off, but not sure if it would have any negative effects.
Additionally, duct tape works wonders I hear...
Why would you ever care if you damage the screen while taking it out since you're probably replacing it anyway? I have no clue. But I thought I would give it a try, and now i'm sharing.
So I managed to remove the screen and the frame without breaking anything (granted the screen wasn't working already)
i.imgur.com/cpKVP
What I did was cut off little strips from a credit card or any sort of plastic card. Then heated only the back side of the frame. I figured if I tried heating the screen from the front, the glass and screen adhesive might start separating. Then I worked the strips in between the frame and screen through the holes in the frame.
i.imgur.com/iql8z
You might be wondering why there are places ground down on the frame... I'll get to that...
Just worked at that for probably an hour constantly reheating. Just unsticking the adhesive from the back of the screen and the frame. I finally managed to be able to fit a card in through the bottom.
i.imgur.com/kuDuP
Then I just used that to unstick the rest of the adhesive.
Now, about why a lot of the frame has grinding marks. I have the Verizon GS3, but I broke the old screen. I found a water damaged sprint gs3 on craigslist for $100. so I figured I would see if it would fit, and if it didn't I could sell the screen for maybe 200-250 on ebay. It didn't fit, not perfectly... but I really didn't feel like waiting for it to sell. So instead, I made it fit, I almost got it perfect, and it all worked just perfectly when I had it all together. But I wanted it to fit perfectly, so naturally, on my last attempt, I ground down a little too far and nicked part of one of the ribbon cables. So I figured I'd try taking it apart without breaking it... If anybody has any suggestions on how to fix the ribbon, feel free to say something!
i.imgur.com/MN9Fl
how bad did you butcher the ribbon? you could maybe try circuitwriter conductive pen to draw the contacts back. http://stcwk.blogspot.com/2010/03/how-to-repair-broken-ribbon-cable.html
I got the S3 like 3 days ago, and earlier today it just slide out of my pocket when i was crouched, (I know, i placed an order on a case 2 days ago but thought i would be careful around the house with the phone til than) , Crack lower right corner, do you think you could seperate the glass/digitizer from the lcd screen? to just replace the glass/digitizer http://i46.tinypic.com/5lyx41.jpg
The pen might be worth a try. As for separating the glass from the screen, it's possible, but I really wouldn't recommend it. Just because of how the screen is manufactured, there is a film of glue between the front glass and the screen, it would be impossible to glue it back together without leaving bubbles in between, so it would look way worse than just the little bit of cracked screen you have.
So it's all about a Sensation with a defective digitizer. There are countless videos, DIYs, forums posts and blog articles on how to take the phone apart and to separate the digitizer form the screen. However, there is nothing on how to glue the new digitizer back in place. The options I've seen so far are:
1. Use 3M 2mm tape
2. Use what's left of the original glue (reheat and try to make it adhere to the new digitizer)
3. Use super glue
I live in Germany and it turns out that it's almost impossible to find 3M 2mm tape out here. So, could I just use any available type of double-sided tape and just cut it in 2mm stripes? What's the thickness of this 3M tape (need to know so that I can find a proper alternative).
However, the bigger question is, which of the three options mentioned above is the best? I guess that trying to make it work with the old adhesive leftovers is the worst thing to do, but is 3M (or equivalent) tape better than super glue? I mean, it's important that no dust comes through between the digitizer glass and the lcd screen... and that the newly fitted digitizer withstands the influence of high and low temperatures (hot sun in the summer, cold ice in the winter).
So, what would you say is best? I've never done this before, so I guess you have much more experience than I do...
Thanks
PS. Please excuse the typo in the thread title
icu___ said:
So it's all about a Sensation with a defective digitizer. There are countless videos, DIYs, forums posts and blog articles on how to take the phone apart and to separate the digitizer form the screen. However, there is nothing on how to glue the new digitizer back in place. The options I've seen so far are:
1. Use 3M 2mm tape
2. Use what's left of the original glue (reheat and try to make it adhere to the new digitizer)
3. Use super glue
I live in Germany and it turns out that it's almost impossible to find 3M 2mm tape out here. So, could I just use any available type of double-sided tape and just cut it in 2mm stripes? What's the thickness of this 3M tape (need to know so that I can find a proper alternative).
However, the bigger question is, which of the three options mentioned above is the best? I guess that trying to make it work with the old adhesive leftovers is the worst thing to do, but is 3M (or equivalent) tape better than super glue? I mean, it's important that no dust comes through between the digitizer glass and the lcd screen... and that the newly fitted digitizer withstands the influence of high and low temperatures (hot sun in the summer, cold ice in the winter).
So, what would you say is best? I've never done this before, so I guess you have much more experience than I do...
Thanks
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Its not quite the same but I had this problem when replacing a LCD screen on a nintendo ds lite (bottom touch screen). I just went with the double sided sticky tape as I felt I could be far more accurate with it compared to super glue. I just cut it into the sizes I needed with a sharp knife and fitted it to the digitizer And then to the LCD. I have had no issues with it so far, its not slid or anything but then again it is housed in casing... if I was you I would try the tape first and if it seems unreliable try for the glue, just make sure you don't miss as it will muck up the digitizer if its no placed right I believe.
Good luck
Tapped out from my sexy nexus 7
I'd also say that the double sided sticky tape is probably the best thing to try out.. However, I'd like to know how thick the tape is. It should be thick enough to make the glas digitizer stick and also as thin as possible so that the new screen isn't appear to be higher than the old one...
I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG
TheoKondak said:
I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG
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You used too much heat. I don't think the warped frame will fit anymore. You might need to buy a new one. You really don't need heat initially though. Since you were gonna discard the broken digitizer anyway, you should've just scraped the glass off. Use this type of adhesive to glue back.
Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.
TheoKondak said:
Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.
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It's the front plastic bezel. Sometimes it's available used on Ebay. Best place to inquire would be Asus Parts located somewhere in Europe. I wouldn't try what you're thinking of doing unless you can straighten it again using the broken digitizer, as the screen is extremely brittle and the slightest pressure might crack it.
Hello,
After changing the screen of my moto G, the new one is no longer stuck and is moving.... I had to remove the original glue (tape?) with an hair dryer.
My question is : with what I then paste the screen?
thanks a lot
Phil77560 said:
Hello,
After changing the screen of my moto G, the new one is no longer stuck and is moving.... I had to remove the original glue (tape?) with an hair dryer.
My question is : with what I then paste the screen?
thanks a lot
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This is a very annoying problem of the chinese displays that come with a frame or pre-applied tape.
The display+lcd assembly is too heavy to be held by any normal 2-sided tape (3M 300LSE for example).
After hours of checking how the original thing was made it turned out that it has a rubber-like gasket that is glued to the frame, which acts as bonding surface for the 2nd glue used to hold the digitizer to the frame.
These are all my own findings, sadly no pne is discussing this problem anywhere or at least I didn't find any.
I've used a transparent epoxy (65-70% resin ~30-35% oxidizer so the compound hardens slower).Use a wooden tooth pick to apply the glue on the frame, don't put to much of it, just a hair-thin line.
Put the screen on and press it well and be ready to clean off any glue that may come out of the edges. The epoxy is easy to clean until it's set, use isopropyl alcohol 99% or some dry contact cleaner with a cotton cloth or kitchen paper.
The drawback of using epoxy is once it's set, you won't be able to remove the screen from the frame by any viable means.This is not a problem tho, since you can buy the whole assembly, should you need to replace the screen again.
Good luck.
:good:
Thanks a lot for your tip.
I'm gonna look for epoxy and try to do as well as you
Thank a lot once more
same issue
Hi,
Thank you very much for having shared your experience with us .
I have exactly the same issue with my Moto G and I've finally found a way out thanks to you. I would try this but I'm afraid of doing it bad. Should I apply the glue exactly in the border of the display? Do you happen to have any video showing it in detail?
Have a nice day
birikif said:
Hi,
Thank you very much for having shared your experience with us .
I have exactly the same issue with my Moto G and I've finally found a way out thanks to you. I would try this but I'm afraid of doing it bad. Should I apply the glue exactly in the border of the display? Do you happen to have any video showing it in detail?
Have a nice day
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
You should apply the glue in the frame, as close as possible to the outer rim and spread it as much as possible on the thin inner lining where the plastic of the frame and the glass make contact.
You can also use universal transparent glue, like JIP or Henkel... etc.These glues are a bit more liquidish and it takes more time to set properly, but they are also more flexible and you can also remove the display with heat, should you have the need to .
Sorry no videos available on this, but with a little effort and reading you'll be fine.
liveroy's advice is great. I've followed it with success, although the screen I bought has the dreaded phantom touch issue (cheap ebay job!) and will have to go back (this issue was apparent even before I glued it to the mid-frame).
Firstly I separated the screen from the mid-frame with two small suction cups, designed for removing halogen light bulbs, on the top and bottom of the glass. This worked well, but I had to use very gentle tugs to ensure I didn't tear the ribbon cable. Because the double-sided tape used was already separating, this was quite an easy part of the job.
I used Araldite 2-Tubes Standard Epoxy, because it has a very long cure time, which allowed me to work slowly. With the screen and mid-frame completely separate and cleaned up, I then threaded the screen's ribbon cable through the hole before glueing. The trickiest bit was putting the epoxy along the frame where the ribbon cable is; to do this I just wedged some folded paper between frame and screen while I layed down the epoxy. I guess I could have just done this bit first and avoided the need for a paper wedge (this was used to prevent prematurely sticking the screen to the frame before all the epoxy's down).
I used the screen's plastic film to protect the screen from the epoxy, and cleaned the excess epoxy with an old bottle of disk head cleaner I found lying about (smelt very alcoholly!) and cotton buds. I used some clothes pegs to clamp the screen to the frame, but I took them off after a few hours. Then I left it for a couple of days. The result was as good as I could have hoped for. I can see a little bit of the dried epoxy in the very narrow trenches between the mid-frame and glass, but this doesn't bother me. Way better than having light streaming through the sides, and it seems like a really solid grip! When in use and getting warm I could still see a bit of lift at the sides, but because it was glued there was absolutely no gap.
Going back to the original need for this fix -
On my phone I believe this is due to a warped, concave logic board, effectively peeling the glass away from the mid-frame when fitted. If it were totally flat then I doubt this would happen. I guess the aftermarket screen manufacturers didn't factor this in when they decided to use "weak" double-sided tape. I've also noticed that, with the new screen in place, the outer back shell of the phone, that you put on last, doesn't quite fit at the bottom like with the old screen - there is now a small a gap where the inner plastic housing is exposed. I think this is because the new mid-frame is straighter than the old, and the old shell has itself bent over time.
Hi,
I'm happy to found this thread. It's the second screen i replace on my Motorola Moto G4 Plus because of this; you can view my comment here : https://www.witrigs.com/oem-lcd-screen-assembly-for-motorola-moto-g4-plus-black#customer-reviews
I will try to use super glue on the top of my screen, hope it'll work. EDIT 20190122 : it worked (be careful to not add too much glue like i did : it was covering camera when pressing !)
Thanks