Why would you ever care if you damage the screen while taking it out since you're probably replacing it anyway? I have no clue. But I thought I would give it a try, and now i'm sharing.
So I managed to remove the screen and the frame without breaking anything (granted the screen wasn't working already)
i.imgur.com/cpKVP
What I did was cut off little strips from a credit card or any sort of plastic card. Then heated only the back side of the frame. I figured if I tried heating the screen from the front, the glass and screen adhesive might start separating. Then I worked the strips in between the frame and screen through the holes in the frame.
i.imgur.com/iql8z
You might be wondering why there are places ground down on the frame... I'll get to that...
Just worked at that for probably an hour constantly reheating. Just unsticking the adhesive from the back of the screen and the frame. I finally managed to be able to fit a card in through the bottom.
i.imgur.com/kuDuP
Then I just used that to unstick the rest of the adhesive.
Now, about why a lot of the frame has grinding marks. I have the Verizon GS3, but I broke the old screen. I found a water damaged sprint gs3 on craigslist for $100. so I figured I would see if it would fit, and if it didn't I could sell the screen for maybe 200-250 on ebay. It didn't fit, not perfectly... but I really didn't feel like waiting for it to sell. So instead, I made it fit, I almost got it perfect, and it all worked just perfectly when I had it all together. But I wanted it to fit perfectly, so naturally, on my last attempt, I ground down a little too far and nicked part of one of the ribbon cables. So I figured I'd try taking it apart without breaking it... If anybody has any suggestions on how to fix the ribbon, feel free to say something!
i.imgur.com/MN9Fl
how bad did you butcher the ribbon? you could maybe try circuitwriter conductive pen to draw the contacts back. http://stcwk.blogspot.com/2010/03/how-to-repair-broken-ribbon-cable.html
I got the S3 like 3 days ago, and earlier today it just slide out of my pocket when i was crouched, (I know, i placed an order on a case 2 days ago but thought i would be careful around the house with the phone til than) , Crack lower right corner, do you think you could seperate the glass/digitizer from the lcd screen? to just replace the glass/digitizer http://i46.tinypic.com/5lyx41.jpg
The pen might be worth a try. As for separating the glass from the screen, it's possible, but I really wouldn't recommend it. Just because of how the screen is manufactured, there is a film of glue between the front glass and the screen, it would be impossible to glue it back together without leaving bubbles in between, so it would look way worse than just the little bit of cracked screen you have.
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so i dropped my fuze the other day taking it out of the case and when it hit the ground the cover and battery came off and out. i put it back together to inspect the damage and didnt see anything wrong (i was outside at night in a parking lot). when i got back to my house i looked over the phone again in the light and noticed that it looked like my camera lens was all cracked. it turns out that only the square piece of glass in front of the camera was broken and i peeled it off and the camera seems to work fine without it. does anyone know if this affects the lens at all by being exposed and where i might be able to get another square glass cover??? the original one seemed to be glued down so i dont see why i couldnt glue another thin piece of glass overtop of it???
you can probably check out how thick the glass was and then cut off a small piece and glue it down with a normal glue just so it sticks... it's mostly to protect the lens,
yea it has to be 1 mm at most its really small. i'll take it to a camera shop and see if they have anything i can use to fit in where it was. thanks
i dropped my first fuze from a short distance and that little piece of glass broke around the sides. i think its just a noise filter. the camera still worked but there was alot of extra noise which almost seemed to pulse on the image. im taking better care of my replacement fuze.
did att give you a new replacement for free? i think i am just going to hold on to this one and flash it a few times until the fortress comes out sometime at the end of the summer.
Long time lurker here... I got the dreaded "rainbow" rectangle on my screen that meant that the digitizer stopped working. I was pretty sad to say the least. I called Verizon and they wanted $95 to send me a new one with the silly insurance plan. I scouted google and saw that many other have had this issue.
So, I broke down and bought the replacement digitizer on eBay. Well tonight, as I looked at my broken phone, I thought that since I was going to be eventually replacing the digitizer, it couldn't hurt to try to mess with it a little. I noticed that the rectangle appears as a thin film between the top and bottom layers of the digitizer. This thin film is what causes the rainbow effect, just like a thin film of oil on top of water.
What got me thinking was that I had just set the screen to beep when tapped, and every time I turned it on it tapped once. This meant that the screen was actually being pressed continually. So, I thought that I'd try to pull the screen away from the bottom a little. I finally got some duct tape (of the clear variety), and carefully laid it over the entire screen. Then, I pulled off at a pretty shallow angle so it would pull on the top layer pretty good.
Well, lo and behold, the screen started working again! And there isn't a hint of rainbow/oilness at all. And it is totally responsive, as before.
So, if you are in the same boat, try some duct tape or similar.
Cheers!
acmegeek
That's pretty good news I suppose, at least one possible DIY solution has been discovered. Kinda puts my mind at ease thinking that one day my phone might not be responsive to touch. I'll have to keep this in mind if that day ever comes. It does make sense though.
Be careful doing this. It fixed my spot, but now the LCD only displays 2 white lines.
So I just took out my sensation from the box and noticed the stock screen protector was off set and already peeling back a great amount on the top corner. I looked closely and noticed that the small tab at the top of the screen protector is actually inside the ridge of the phone, in that small thin crack where the front-screen ends. That was what cause the screen protector to not lay flat and started bending inward. I slowly peeled the protector back and when it came to the part that was "stuck" or jammed into the crack it took a good tug (I guess it was the adhesive...or it was really in there) for it to pop out. This couldn't have done any damage right? The small crack leads to nothing does it?
Probably just means it got caught in the gap when being fitted. I assume when you say 'crack' you mean the gap where the screen meets the rest of the body of the phone?
Yeah, where the black part ends.
Also, I have removed it and replaced it on more accurately since then and noticed it sticks to the screen very well, even attaching itself to parts that I have not even smoothed my fingers over yet, must be the static? Are there any disadvantages in using this as opposed to buying a new screen protector?
If it works then continue using it. We don't get them pre-fitted in the UK so I bought a 3rd party one
edit: delete this thread please mod thank you
My Tab 2 7 had a swirling crack on the digitizer (touchscreen). Looked for a tutorial on how to replace it in vain. Saw the teardown at Tech Republic, but that's it. No mention anywhere that I could find about how to do it. Decided to bite the bullet and ventured to fit a new one. Successful. Wrote down a quick guide thinking it might help someone since I saw a bunch of tabs with smashed digitizers on Ebay. Some claim it's gorilla glass, which makes me kind of wonder why they shatter so readily. I know, gorilla glass only scratch-resistant, but still...
Samsung sticks the digitizer to the bezel-frame with a tough double-sided tape, similar to the kind Asus uses on its tabs. A tutorial for the Tab 2 10 shows the use of a putty knife to scrape the digitizer off its frame, which wouldn't work with the 7, as its bezel-frame almost totally covers the edge of the glass back side. On the other hand, inserting anything metal in between from the front would scuff it badly.
The LCD display was taped to the magnesium frame, but is separate from the touchscreen, which need not be removed when replacing the digitizer.
What you need to do is to follow the steps in the teardown referred to above. As Tech Republic correctly pointed out, the internal layout is quite neat, unlike some of the tabs I've had the chance to disassemble. There are many thin cables, however, and you need to proceed with patience.
You must remove all components, so that only the frame with the digitizer and LCD is left. Eventually, you'd have to employ some source of heat, be it a heat gun, a hair dryer or a heat lamp to soften or to some extent melt the adhesive of the digitizer. Leaving any electronic component in place and the heat might destroy it. You can use brute force to separate the digitizer from the frame, but you'd more likely than not damage the LCD in the process.
What I did was use a heat gun at ~500 F, held at about 1 to 2 inches from the edge of the digitizer, and went back and forth over it, one side at a time, for no more than 30 to 35 seconds. I used a blunt object to push the glass out at spots plainly visible as illustrated in the attached thumbs below, then slid a plastic tool with a flared end to pry it from the bezel along its edge. Be careful how you handle the frame, since it would get burning hot at this point. As I moved from one side to another, I wedged a guitar pick between the glass and the frame to prevent them from sticking back together. You might pulverize parts of the glass as you go along, but in general it flexes quite a bit and wouldn't shatter.
Once you get it out, you need to remove the residual tape on the frame. The digitizer I bought was lined with new tape so I didn't have use any extra adhesive. It doesn't bind as strongly as the original tape, but enough to hold everything in place.
Putting it back is just the reverse. I took the extra step of reassembling the whole thing first with just the digitizer hanging loose, plugged it in, turned the tab on to make sure it functioned correctly before bonding it to the frame.
Basically, the process is nothing new. However, just the fact that someone has done it might give confidence to other DIYers in the future. Feel free to ask if any questions.
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/cracking-open-the-samsung-galaxy-tab-2-70/6360139?
Thanks im going to give it a go. Any walkthrough tips by anyone else appreciated
Replacing the digitizer on this device is among the easiest ive seen. With no heat or taking anything off except the back I fixed one with only an isesamo
Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Maybe these vids from JerryRigEverything can help you out.
Good luck!
Sent from my HTC U12+ using XDA Labs
https://tinyurl.com/htcu12
Just replaced mine
majomathes said:
Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just replaced mine yesterday and it was more difficult than any other one I've done in the past. Anyway I never found one single video on YouTube that showed the screen removal and pretty much had to play it by ear. There are a few videos that show the disassembly of the U12+ and each stops before removing the screen. My advice is to remove everything from the frame, I managed to piece together enough from the videos to know there are 15 screws to remove, one video said 14 but there's one more that's hidden until you've gotten under the motherboard holding the front facing cameras. Knowing I wanted to keep it simple I didn't remove all of the antenna wires, there's one at the bottom that's under the speaker cover that I left attached so I only disconnected it from the motherboard. Then the other I only disconnected near the vibrator, leaving it connected at the motherboard, so each piece had one wire that stayed connected. Meanwhile you'll have to undo every other plug on the device and with a little persuasion everything fell out. (Don't attempt to remove the button/pressure sensing strips along the sides!) Once you are down to the frame, and for me the ear piece speaker, I used a heat gun to soften the bond between the glass and the frame. It doesn't loosen up very easily, they are really bonded together. I got most of it and then began to chip away at the broken glass. You'll want a good heat gun for this part. I had to set mine to 300F to really get it to loosen up and then work mm by mm around the edge getting all of the glass and glue out of the track. This probably took me a half hour or more. I used E6000 glue but only because I would have had to order B7000 or any other recommended glue. E6000 is a good glue but just because many of the other videos I watched used B7000 I would have liked to use it too.
To install the new screen I used a syringe filled with my glue to follow the small glue track around the edge of the frame. Don't worry about squeeze out because this glue is very forgiving and wipes away easily with IPA Alcohol and a rag. I followed the old glue placement, adding a little extra near the bottom corners and a dab around the ear piece speaker holes. Then it's just reversing the process to assemble the electronics. Now here is another word of warning, the plugs are so small and some are not easy to align but be sure they snap into place and are flat when installed. I made the mistake of not getting the display plug flat and had to do a partial disassembly to correct the issue.
I didn't glue the back on but think I might today just to try and achieve the waterproof level the phone shipped with. You may have to glue yours but I had previously broken the back and already replaced it and the replacement came with a double sided adhesive strip that was still pretty sticky. If I remember correctly the original back was glued on and probably wouldn't have stuck if I had tried to just replace the back as I did.
One other note. After being disassembled and pulling the battery my finger print scanner didn't want to work. In fact it didn't even show up in the menu when I went looking for it but restarting the phone again caused it to show up. My advantage with the double sided adhesive was I was able to test everything and use the phone for a full day before committing to gluing the back on. Now that I know everything is working, the phone is charging and it all seems good I can glue the back on.
Best of luck