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Replacing the tab 2 7 digitizer

My Tab 2 7 had a swirling crack on the digitizer (touchscreen). Looked for a tutorial on how to replace it in vain. Saw the teardown at Tech Republic, but that's it. No mention anywhere that I could find about how to do it. Decided to bite the bullet and ventured to fit a new one. Successful. Wrote down a quick guide thinking it might help someone since I saw a bunch of tabs with smashed digitizers on Ebay. Some claim it's gorilla glass, which makes me kind of wonder why they shatter so readily. I know, gorilla glass only scratch-resistant, but still...
Samsung sticks the digitizer to the bezel-frame with a tough double-sided tape, similar to the kind Asus uses on its tabs. A tutorial for the Tab 2 10 shows the use of a putty knife to scrape the digitizer off its frame, which wouldn't work with the 7, as its bezel-frame almost totally covers the edge of the glass back side. On the other hand, inserting anything metal in between from the front would scuff it badly.
The LCD display was taped to the magnesium frame, but is separate from the touchscreen, which need not be removed when replacing the digitizer.
What you need to do is to follow the steps in the teardown referred to above. As Tech Republic correctly pointed out, the internal layout is quite neat, unlike some of the tabs I've had the chance to disassemble. There are many thin cables, however, and you need to proceed with patience.
You must remove all components, so that only the frame with the digitizer and LCD is left. Eventually, you'd have to employ some source of heat, be it a heat gun, a hair dryer or a heat lamp to soften or to some extent melt the adhesive of the digitizer. Leaving any electronic component in place and the heat might destroy it. You can use brute force to separate the digitizer from the frame, but you'd more likely than not damage the LCD in the process.
What I did was use a heat gun at ~500 F, held at about 1 to 2 inches from the edge of the digitizer, and went back and forth over it, one side at a time, for no more than 30 to 35 seconds. I used a blunt object to push the glass out at spots plainly visible as illustrated in the attached thumbs below, then slid a plastic tool with a flared end to pry it from the bezel along its edge. Be careful how you handle the frame, since it would get burning hot at this point. As I moved from one side to another, I wedged a guitar pick between the glass and the frame to prevent them from sticking back together. You might pulverize parts of the glass as you go along, but in general it flexes quite a bit and wouldn't shatter.
Once you get it out, you need to remove the residual tape on the frame. The digitizer I bought was lined with new tape so I didn't have use any extra adhesive. It doesn't bind as strongly as the original tape, but enough to hold everything in place.
Putting it back is just the reverse. I took the extra step of reassembling the whole thing first with just the digitizer hanging loose, plugged it in, turned the tab on to make sure it functioned correctly before bonding it to the frame.
Basically, the process is nothing new. However, just the fact that someone has done it might give confidence to other DIYers in the future. Feel free to ask if any questions.
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/cracking-open-the-samsung-galaxy-tab-2-70/6360139?

Thanks im going to give it a go. Any walkthrough tips by anyone else appreciated

Replacing the digitizer on this device is among the easiest ive seen. With no heat or taking anything off except the back I fixed one with only an isesamo

Problems changing Digitizer.

I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG

TheoKondak said:
I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG
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You used too much heat. I don't think the warped frame will fit anymore. You might need to buy a new one. You really don't need heat initially though. Since you were gonna discard the broken digitizer anyway, you should've just scraped the glass off. Use this type of adhesive to glue back.

Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.

TheoKondak said:
Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.
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It's the front plastic bezel. Sometimes it's available used on Ebay. Best place to inquire would be Asus Parts located somewhere in Europe. I wouldn't try what you're thinking of doing unless you can straighten it again using the broken digitizer, as the screen is extremely brittle and the slightest pressure might crack it.

glue for screen ?

Hello,
After changing the screen of my moto G, the new one is no longer stuck and is moving.... I had to remove the original glue (tape?) with an hair dryer.
My question is : with what I then paste the screen?
thanks a lot

Phil77560 said:
Hello,
After changing the screen of my moto G, the new one is no longer stuck and is moving.... I had to remove the original glue (tape?) with an hair dryer.
My question is : with what I then paste the screen?
thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a very annoying problem of the chinese displays that come with a frame or pre-applied tape.
The display+lcd assembly is too heavy to be held by any normal 2-sided tape (3M 300LSE for example).
After hours of checking how the original thing was made it turned out that it has a rubber-like gasket that is glued to the frame, which acts as bonding surface for the 2nd glue used to hold the digitizer to the frame.
These are all my own findings, sadly no pne is discussing this problem anywhere or at least I didn't find any.
I've used a transparent epoxy (65-70% resin ~30-35% oxidizer so the compound hardens slower).Use a wooden tooth pick to apply the glue on the frame, don't put to much of it, just a hair-thin line.
Put the screen on and press it well and be ready to clean off any glue that may come out of the edges. The epoxy is easy to clean until it's set, use isopropyl alcohol 99% or some dry contact cleaner with a cotton cloth or kitchen paper.
The drawback of using epoxy is once it's set, you won't be able to remove the screen from the frame by any viable means.This is not a problem tho, since you can buy the whole assembly, should you need to replace the screen again.
Good luck.

:good:
Thanks a lot for your tip.
I'm gonna look for epoxy and try to do as well as you
Thank a lot once more

same issue
Hi,
Thank you very much for having shared your experience with us .
I have exactly the same issue with my Moto G and I've finally found a way out thanks to you. I would try this but I'm afraid of doing it bad. Should I apply the glue exactly in the border of the display? Do you happen to have any video showing it in detail?
Have a nice day

birikif said:
Hi,
Thank you very much for having shared your experience with us .
I have exactly the same issue with my Moto G and I've finally found a way out thanks to you. I would try this but I'm afraid of doing it bad. Should I apply the glue exactly in the border of the display? Do you happen to have any video showing it in detail?
Have a nice day
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
You should apply the glue in the frame, as close as possible to the outer rim and spread it as much as possible on the thin inner lining where the plastic of the frame and the glass make contact.
You can also use universal transparent glue, like JIP or Henkel... etc.These glues are a bit more liquidish and it takes more time to set properly, but they are also more flexible and you can also remove the display with heat, should you have the need to .
Sorry no videos available on this, but with a little effort and reading you'll be fine.

liveroy's advice is great. I've followed it with success, although the screen I bought has the dreaded phantom touch issue (cheap ebay job!) and will have to go back (this issue was apparent even before I glued it to the mid-frame).
Firstly I separated the screen from the mid-frame with two small suction cups, designed for removing halogen light bulbs, on the top and bottom of the glass. This worked well, but I had to use very gentle tugs to ensure I didn't tear the ribbon cable. Because the double-sided tape used was already separating, this was quite an easy part of the job.
I used Araldite 2-Tubes Standard Epoxy, because it has a very long cure time, which allowed me to work slowly. With the screen and mid-frame completely separate and cleaned up, I then threaded the screen's ribbon cable through the hole before glueing. The trickiest bit was putting the epoxy along the frame where the ribbon cable is; to do this I just wedged some folded paper between frame and screen while I layed down the epoxy. I guess I could have just done this bit first and avoided the need for a paper wedge (this was used to prevent prematurely sticking the screen to the frame before all the epoxy's down).
I used the screen's plastic film to protect the screen from the epoxy, and cleaned the excess epoxy with an old bottle of disk head cleaner I found lying about (smelt very alcoholly!) and cotton buds. I used some clothes pegs to clamp the screen to the frame, but I took them off after a few hours. Then I left it for a couple of days. The result was as good as I could have hoped for. I can see a little bit of the dried epoxy in the very narrow trenches between the mid-frame and glass, but this doesn't bother me. Way better than having light streaming through the sides, and it seems like a really solid grip! When in use and getting warm I could still see a bit of lift at the sides, but because it was glued there was absolutely no gap.
Going back to the original need for this fix -
On my phone I believe this is due to a warped, concave logic board, effectively peeling the glass away from the mid-frame when fitted. If it were totally flat then I doubt this would happen. I guess the aftermarket screen manufacturers didn't factor this in when they decided to use "weak" double-sided tape. I've also noticed that, with the new screen in place, the outer back shell of the phone, that you put on last, doesn't quite fit at the bottom like with the old screen - there is now a small a gap where the inner plastic housing is exposed. I think this is because the new mid-frame is straighter than the old, and the old shell has itself bent over time.

Hi,
I'm happy to found this thread. It's the second screen i replace on my Motorola Moto G4 Plus because of this; you can view my comment here : https://www.witrigs.com/oem-lcd-screen-assembly-for-motorola-moto-g4-plus-black#customer-reviews
I will try to use super glue on the top of my screen, hope it'll work. EDIT 20190122 : it worked (be careful to not add too much glue like i did : it was covering camera when pressing !)
Thanks

[Q] Digitizer replacement - glue replacement?

Hi all, I got an i9300, it has the digitizer broken and I need to replace it.
The problem is, here, in Venezuela, the UV glue and the UV lamps are too much expensive... due a pathetic government.
Anyways I need to fix the phone, and for that, I need to replace the digitizer but without the UV glue and UV lamps...
I know there is the double-sided tape but it leave a space between LCD and digitizer, so I don't like it, and... the tape is too expensive also.
I'm trying to find a cheap glue replacement, but I don't know if what I've found untill now would work or destroy my LCD...
So far, I've found a transparent glue, which has the following components:
1) Polyvinyl acetate.
2) Alcohols.
3) Special solvents.
It also says that it has no water.
The thing is that I don't know if this glue would be too abrasive with the LCD and may damage it in some way.
AFAIK, the LCDs has polyvinyl acetate on its components... but as I said, I don't know how this would react with the glue...
Somebody here can give me a hint? should I try it?...
When the glue I've found gets dry, just gets cristallized and over 60ºC it can be easyly removed.

I wouldnt mess with and unknown glue or adhesive that is not meant for this type o job. I would seriously recommend considering the double sided tape. Its a perfect fit and works perfectly.

@bmeizner said:
I wouldnt mess with and unknown glue or adhesive that is not meant for this type o job. I would seriously recommend considering the double sided tape. Its a perfect fit and works perfectly.
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I see, well finally, I've ruined the digitizer behind the pieces of glass... and the LCD with it, so, I must buy a new whole screen.
Warning: Do the replacement with extremely patience... do not pass the 200ºC and be extremely carefully.

[Q] TF300 LCD replacment - different than original.

Just got my replacement parts for two TF300 (these things are not meant for kids - their screens crack like there's no tomorrow).
One has a broken digitizer, the other one has broken both LCD and digitzier), so I have orders 2xG01 digitizers and 1 LCD screen HannStar HSD101PWW1 + 8mm double-sided 3M black adhesive.
I have started to work with the latter unit this weekend and here's two things that got me:
1) My question: Is it okay that the shipped LCD works but looks different than the original? The good thing is that it works. My concern is that it does not have the metal frame, but instead it's just taped around with a black tape.
I have noticed that it causes the digitizer to "stick out", i.e. it does not adhere well to the plastic frame, while it sits tight in the TF300 metal(magnesium) frame.
Should I swap out the double-sided foam tape for something thinner?
I've used the regular stregth 3M double-sided tape, which I have sliced into 2 mm stripes with Exacto knife.

Just food for thought after doing a few screens.. I actually used black electrical tape to make sure there is no light bleed.. By strapping the sides it seems to pull it all together and so far on a couple I have done they have come up well..

I agree with no light bleed when the LCD is black taped around, but the digitizer placement seems to be off (i.e. it sticks to far out to hold onto the plastic bezel/frame, in spite of me cleaning it all up and re-applying the 8mm double-sided 3M black tape).

Problem with opening it up all the time is the fine dust.. I did one on the tf201 the other day and had to reopen it to get a spec out..wasnt happy after closing it up and just up on the upper right I could see it under the glass..if urs works and it closes fine then leave it as you could do more damage then it worth playing around with it