Hello,
After changing the screen of my moto G, the new one is no longer stuck and is moving.... I had to remove the original glue (tape?) with an hair dryer.
My question is : with what I then paste the screen?
thanks a lot
Phil77560 said:
Hello,
After changing the screen of my moto G, the new one is no longer stuck and is moving.... I had to remove the original glue (tape?) with an hair dryer.
My question is : with what I then paste the screen?
thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a very annoying problem of the chinese displays that come with a frame or pre-applied tape.
The display+lcd assembly is too heavy to be held by any normal 2-sided tape (3M 300LSE for example).
After hours of checking how the original thing was made it turned out that it has a rubber-like gasket that is glued to the frame, which acts as bonding surface for the 2nd glue used to hold the digitizer to the frame.
These are all my own findings, sadly no pne is discussing this problem anywhere or at least I didn't find any.
I've used a transparent epoxy (65-70% resin ~30-35% oxidizer so the compound hardens slower).Use a wooden tooth pick to apply the glue on the frame, don't put to much of it, just a hair-thin line.
Put the screen on and press it well and be ready to clean off any glue that may come out of the edges. The epoxy is easy to clean until it's set, use isopropyl alcohol 99% or some dry contact cleaner with a cotton cloth or kitchen paper.
The drawback of using epoxy is once it's set, you won't be able to remove the screen from the frame by any viable means.This is not a problem tho, since you can buy the whole assembly, should you need to replace the screen again.
Good luck.
:good:
Thanks a lot for your tip.
I'm gonna look for epoxy and try to do as well as you
Thank a lot once more
same issue
Hi,
Thank you very much for having shared your experience with us .
I have exactly the same issue with my Moto G and I've finally found a way out thanks to you. I would try this but I'm afraid of doing it bad. Should I apply the glue exactly in the border of the display? Do you happen to have any video showing it in detail?
Have a nice day
birikif said:
Hi,
Thank you very much for having shared your experience with us .
I have exactly the same issue with my Moto G and I've finally found a way out thanks to you. I would try this but I'm afraid of doing it bad. Should I apply the glue exactly in the border of the display? Do you happen to have any video showing it in detail?
Have a nice day
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
You should apply the glue in the frame, as close as possible to the outer rim and spread it as much as possible on the thin inner lining where the plastic of the frame and the glass make contact.
You can also use universal transparent glue, like JIP or Henkel... etc.These glues are a bit more liquidish and it takes more time to set properly, but they are also more flexible and you can also remove the display with heat, should you have the need to .
Sorry no videos available on this, but with a little effort and reading you'll be fine.
liveroy's advice is great. I've followed it with success, although the screen I bought has the dreaded phantom touch issue (cheap ebay job!) and will have to go back (this issue was apparent even before I glued it to the mid-frame).
Firstly I separated the screen from the mid-frame with two small suction cups, designed for removing halogen light bulbs, on the top and bottom of the glass. This worked well, but I had to use very gentle tugs to ensure I didn't tear the ribbon cable. Because the double-sided tape used was already separating, this was quite an easy part of the job.
I used Araldite 2-Tubes Standard Epoxy, because it has a very long cure time, which allowed me to work slowly. With the screen and mid-frame completely separate and cleaned up, I then threaded the screen's ribbon cable through the hole before glueing. The trickiest bit was putting the epoxy along the frame where the ribbon cable is; to do this I just wedged some folded paper between frame and screen while I layed down the epoxy. I guess I could have just done this bit first and avoided the need for a paper wedge (this was used to prevent prematurely sticking the screen to the frame before all the epoxy's down).
I used the screen's plastic film to protect the screen from the epoxy, and cleaned the excess epoxy with an old bottle of disk head cleaner I found lying about (smelt very alcoholly!) and cotton buds. I used some clothes pegs to clamp the screen to the frame, but I took them off after a few hours. Then I left it for a couple of days. The result was as good as I could have hoped for. I can see a little bit of the dried epoxy in the very narrow trenches between the mid-frame and glass, but this doesn't bother me. Way better than having light streaming through the sides, and it seems like a really solid grip! When in use and getting warm I could still see a bit of lift at the sides, but because it was glued there was absolutely no gap.
Going back to the original need for this fix -
On my phone I believe this is due to a warped, concave logic board, effectively peeling the glass away from the mid-frame when fitted. If it were totally flat then I doubt this would happen. I guess the aftermarket screen manufacturers didn't factor this in when they decided to use "weak" double-sided tape. I've also noticed that, with the new screen in place, the outer back shell of the phone, that you put on last, doesn't quite fit at the bottom like with the old screen - there is now a small a gap where the inner plastic housing is exposed. I think this is because the new mid-frame is straighter than the old, and the old shell has itself bent over time.
Hi,
I'm happy to found this thread. It's the second screen i replace on my Motorola Moto G4 Plus because of this; you can view my comment here : https://www.witrigs.com/oem-lcd-screen-assembly-for-motorola-moto-g4-plus-black#customer-reviews
I will try to use super glue on the top of my screen, hope it'll work. EDIT 20190122 : it worked (be careful to not add too much glue like i did : it was covering camera when pressing !)
Thanks
Related
I just started developing this odd creaking noise near the bottom and sides of my S4G. Even with a Seidio Active case wrapped around it, the creaking can be felt and heard when hitting the bottom buttons.
The fix is pretty easy. You just need to decrease the amount of movement the back cover has.
I had some .010 mil fiber (fish) paper laying around so I cut a small square that covers the sim card and microsd card area. You can probably use something else, but hey, why not use some insulated paper if you have it.
Lay the paper on top of the area and then slowly place the back cover back on. No holes are in that area above the sim and microsd, so no worries there. You should see an immediate improvement
I needed more than that to stop the creaking/screen movement.
Pathetic we have to go to these lengths
jlevy73 said:
I needed more than that to stop the creaking/screen movement.
Pathetic we have to go to these lengths
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you have to do?
I tried used two squares of paper, but that made the back bulge out a little too much to my liking.
GideonX said:
What did you have to do?
I tried used two squares of paper, but that made the back bulge out a little too much to my liking.
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Click to collapse
I took a post-it and folded it twice. Then placed it on the bottom right area and closed up the cover. For me when I press down on the bottom right side of the screen the whole screen sort of depresses a bit. Only way I could get rid of that was to place the paper in that region. Problem solved.
Post it would have been my backup method
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G
buy another battery, i recently got an anker also had the creaking problems, noticed the anker is a TINY bit thicker than the stock battery and it removed that problem completely. and that anker battery was DIRT cheap
I just lined the case with some scotch tape. from the bottom to about 3/4 of the way up. I just went around the antenna nubs and the usb hole.
Posted this in another thread, but felt it was valuable here too...
Got the creaking here also, definitely a design flaw. Being obsessive with my devices i couldnt live with it!
I do not recommend putting paper in the cover to fill the gap, as this is just expanding the cover further making it even MORE loose when the paper is not in there. Also i wouldn't recommend it because the paper pushes the back cover out a little more, you may loose a connection for the ground. Which is the little metal springy thing, half way up the right hand side. Obviously its not a good idea to 'push' the cover further away from this ground spot. I have heard that people have had issues with screen responsiveness due to a static build up from not grounding properly.
What i did to fix this problem was a bit of a kitbash of sorts.
Mine was creaking on the bottom right area, like most. The problem is there is too much play between the little black catches on the battery cover and the latch on the handset. Instead of filling up the gap between the phone and the cover (Ala paper, card in the cover) I closed it!
What you need to do is get some very thin plastic film. Like that on kids toy packaging etc. Not the thicker stuff though. This stuff would be under 1mm thick. It came as a viewing window in the box my new wallet came in. So you can sorta imagine what im talking about.
I cut a piece about 10mm long and as wide as one of the two little black catches. I applied a VERY thin coat of super glue to one end of the film. Just enough to cover the area under the catch. Then i carefully placed the film with the superglue on it under the catch, and then quickly applied some pressure to it with some tweezers. Then i carefully cut the excess off with a pair of finely tipped nail scissors.
The result is that it now PULLS the screen/phone INTO the cover more by making the little black catch thicker. Not the opposite (paper method), which pushes the cover out, creating a further problem of adding more paper under the cover over time as the cover expands/loosens to compensate. Not to mention a possible grounding loss and resulting damage.
Hope this helps some people that have had multiple replacements or could not be bothered replacing for such a cosmetic issue. (Like me). It definitely works, just got to get your surgeon on and be accurate with your placement of the film.
Apply this to what ever side creaks the most, and bam its gone. Nice. Solid phone... again.
If anyone wants more specific details etc, im all ears.
Regards,
Matt.
will try it with an double side film ...
i mean a film that hold back cover and phone together ;-) i think doing paper in there will do damage with time
I contacted HTC and they sent me another/new one. No more creaking!
RaptorRVL said:
I contacted HTC and they sent me another/new one. No more creaking!
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Click to collapse
Back cover or whole phone?
I have the same problem too. And it just seems to get more and more "cracking"
So it's all about a Sensation with a defective digitizer. There are countless videos, DIYs, forums posts and blog articles on how to take the phone apart and to separate the digitizer form the screen. However, there is nothing on how to glue the new digitizer back in place. The options I've seen so far are:
1. Use 3M 2mm tape
2. Use what's left of the original glue (reheat and try to make it adhere to the new digitizer)
3. Use super glue
I live in Germany and it turns out that it's almost impossible to find 3M 2mm tape out here. So, could I just use any available type of double-sided tape and just cut it in 2mm stripes? What's the thickness of this 3M tape (need to know so that I can find a proper alternative).
However, the bigger question is, which of the three options mentioned above is the best? I guess that trying to make it work with the old adhesive leftovers is the worst thing to do, but is 3M (or equivalent) tape better than super glue? I mean, it's important that no dust comes through between the digitizer glass and the lcd screen... and that the newly fitted digitizer withstands the influence of high and low temperatures (hot sun in the summer, cold ice in the winter).
So, what would you say is best? I've never done this before, so I guess you have much more experience than I do...
Thanks
PS. Please excuse the typo in the thread title
icu___ said:
So it's all about a Sensation with a defective digitizer. There are countless videos, DIYs, forums posts and blog articles on how to take the phone apart and to separate the digitizer form the screen. However, there is nothing on how to glue the new digitizer back in place. The options I've seen so far are:
1. Use 3M 2mm tape
2. Use what's left of the original glue (reheat and try to make it adhere to the new digitizer)
3. Use super glue
I live in Germany and it turns out that it's almost impossible to find 3M 2mm tape out here. So, could I just use any available type of double-sided tape and just cut it in 2mm stripes? What's the thickness of this 3M tape (need to know so that I can find a proper alternative).
However, the bigger question is, which of the three options mentioned above is the best? I guess that trying to make it work with the old adhesive leftovers is the worst thing to do, but is 3M (or equivalent) tape better than super glue? I mean, it's important that no dust comes through between the digitizer glass and the lcd screen... and that the newly fitted digitizer withstands the influence of high and low temperatures (hot sun in the summer, cold ice in the winter).
So, what would you say is best? I've never done this before, so I guess you have much more experience than I do...
Thanks
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Click to collapse
Its not quite the same but I had this problem when replacing a LCD screen on a nintendo ds lite (bottom touch screen). I just went with the double sided sticky tape as I felt I could be far more accurate with it compared to super glue. I just cut it into the sizes I needed with a sharp knife and fitted it to the digitizer And then to the LCD. I have had no issues with it so far, its not slid or anything but then again it is housed in casing... if I was you I would try the tape first and if it seems unreliable try for the glue, just make sure you don't miss as it will muck up the digitizer if its no placed right I believe.
Good luck
Tapped out from my sexy nexus 7
I'd also say that the double sided sticky tape is probably the best thing to try out.. However, I'd like to know how thick the tape is. It should be thick enough to make the glas digitizer stick and also as thin as possible so that the new screen isn't appear to be higher than the old one...
My Tab 2 7 had a swirling crack on the digitizer (touchscreen). Looked for a tutorial on how to replace it in vain. Saw the teardown at Tech Republic, but that's it. No mention anywhere that I could find about how to do it. Decided to bite the bullet and ventured to fit a new one. Successful. Wrote down a quick guide thinking it might help someone since I saw a bunch of tabs with smashed digitizers on Ebay. Some claim it's gorilla glass, which makes me kind of wonder why they shatter so readily. I know, gorilla glass only scratch-resistant, but still...
Samsung sticks the digitizer to the bezel-frame with a tough double-sided tape, similar to the kind Asus uses on its tabs. A tutorial for the Tab 2 10 shows the use of a putty knife to scrape the digitizer off its frame, which wouldn't work with the 7, as its bezel-frame almost totally covers the edge of the glass back side. On the other hand, inserting anything metal in between from the front would scuff it badly.
The LCD display was taped to the magnesium frame, but is separate from the touchscreen, which need not be removed when replacing the digitizer.
What you need to do is to follow the steps in the teardown referred to above. As Tech Republic correctly pointed out, the internal layout is quite neat, unlike some of the tabs I've had the chance to disassemble. There are many thin cables, however, and you need to proceed with patience.
You must remove all components, so that only the frame with the digitizer and LCD is left. Eventually, you'd have to employ some source of heat, be it a heat gun, a hair dryer or a heat lamp to soften or to some extent melt the adhesive of the digitizer. Leaving any electronic component in place and the heat might destroy it. You can use brute force to separate the digitizer from the frame, but you'd more likely than not damage the LCD in the process.
What I did was use a heat gun at ~500 F, held at about 1 to 2 inches from the edge of the digitizer, and went back and forth over it, one side at a time, for no more than 30 to 35 seconds. I used a blunt object to push the glass out at spots plainly visible as illustrated in the attached thumbs below, then slid a plastic tool with a flared end to pry it from the bezel along its edge. Be careful how you handle the frame, since it would get burning hot at this point. As I moved from one side to another, I wedged a guitar pick between the glass and the frame to prevent them from sticking back together. You might pulverize parts of the glass as you go along, but in general it flexes quite a bit and wouldn't shatter.
Once you get it out, you need to remove the residual tape on the frame. The digitizer I bought was lined with new tape so I didn't have use any extra adhesive. It doesn't bind as strongly as the original tape, but enough to hold everything in place.
Putting it back is just the reverse. I took the extra step of reassembling the whole thing first with just the digitizer hanging loose, plugged it in, turned the tab on to make sure it functioned correctly before bonding it to the frame.
Basically, the process is nothing new. However, just the fact that someone has done it might give confidence to other DIYers in the future. Feel free to ask if any questions.
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/cracking-open-the-samsung-galaxy-tab-2-70/6360139?
Thanks im going to give it a go. Any walkthrough tips by anyone else appreciated
Replacing the digitizer on this device is among the easiest ive seen. With no heat or taking anything off except the back I fixed one with only an isesamo
I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG
TheoKondak said:
I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG
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Click to collapse
You used too much heat. I don't think the warped frame will fit anymore. You might need to buy a new one. You really don't need heat initially though. Since you were gonna discard the broken digitizer anyway, you should've just scraped the glass off. Use this type of adhesive to glue back.
Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.
TheoKondak said:
Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the front plastic bezel. Sometimes it's available used on Ebay. Best place to inquire would be Asus Parts located somewhere in Europe. I wouldn't try what you're thinking of doing unless you can straighten it again using the broken digitizer, as the screen is extremely brittle and the slightest pressure might crack it.
Hello guys!
I have problems with touchscreen, like here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Wc-KZmmZI8&feature=youtu.be
I think that there is some water between glass and screen.
Any ideas how to delete it from there?
Help please!
GTnik said:
Hello guys!
I have problems with touchscreen, like here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Wc-KZmmZI8&feature=youtu.be
I think that there is some water between glass and screen.
Any ideas how to delete it from there?
Help please!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Short of your spilling liquid on the tab, or using it in a steam room, I can't see how it can seep in between the two glasses. Anyhow, I think you would have to take apart the tab before you can remove the moisture.
If you're willing to do that, and the display assembly is original, the lcd is taped to the back of the digitizer. Since the original double-sided tape is not porous enough for steam to filter through quickly, heating the glass from outside will cause the moisture to evaporate, and condense into drops again at the top of the lcd.
What you need to do is slice a small opening through the tape at the top so there's some space between the glasses, then heat up the front surface. Once the moisture's all gone, press the glasses back together gently. It doesn't take much pressure for one to stick to the other. You want to close the opening to prevent dust particles from getting blown in. That should take care of it.
graphdarnell said:
Short of your spilling liquid on the tab, or using it in a steam room, I can't see how it can seep in between the two glasses. Anyhow, I think you would have to take apart the tab before you can remove the moisture.
If you're willing to do that, and the display assembly is original, the lcd is taped to the back of the digitizer. Since the original double-sided tape is not porous enough for steam to filter through quickly, heating the glass from outside will cause the moisture to evaporate, and condense into drops again at the top of the lcd.
What you need to do is slice a small opening through the tape at the top so there's some space between the glasses, then heat up the front surface. Once the moisture's all gone, press the glasses back together gently. It doesn't take much pressure for one to stick to the other. You want to close the opening to prevent dust particles from getting blown in. That should take care of it.
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Click to collapse
Ok, i will try today!
If I press on glass in some places with turned off screen, i see rainbow spot. I think that water is there after I had installed srceen protector in bathroom with steam.