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Has anyone successfully removed the carrier logo form their Treo 750's casing? If so, what products/methods did you use? I was thinking maybe nail polish remover for the faceplate, would this be too strong? Not even sure where to begin though on the battery cover -- I'm afraid to mess up the rubber-like finish on it.
I bought my 750 on eBay non-working and fixed it up (water damage be damned!) but the OEM Cingular casing is pretty beat up. I ordered what was supposed to be a new unbranded housing from an eBay seller in Hong Kong (yeah, I shoulda known better). Surprise, it gets here today and not only is it obviously used (scratches all over the back), it has big freakin' AT&T logos on it! It's not worth the shipping cost to send it back, so if anyone has any tips on how to debrand it, I'd certainly appreciate it.
try to rub the logo off with a sugar cube, sounds weird but try it.
you gonna create damage if you try to debrand cause there is a thick clear coat overlay on the logo, its gonna look odd.
Well I've been rocking the AT&T housing for a while now and I think I'm just going to leave it as-is. The front logo is pretty discrete, it is much less obtrusive than the Cingular one with the little orange man. I'm just going to keep an eye on eBay and see if a genuine unbranded one pops up.
I'll give the sugar cube a shot on the old Cingular housing though and it it works ok on that maybe I'll take a crack at this new faceplate.
Thanks!
BAMF said:
Has anyone successfully removed the carrier logo form their Treo 750's casing? If so, what products/methods did you use? I was thinking maybe nail polish remover for the faceplate, would this be too strong? Not even sure where to begin though on the battery cover -- I'm afraid to mess up the rubber-like finish on it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nail polish remover will remove it but it can also melt the plastic. As well as bubble the rubbery coating on the rear.
I too bought a used 750 on eBay. Got it yesterday. It's got some light scratches on the case but the screen is scratch-free. I'm going to take the front bezel off and prep/paint it.
Use buildable primer (Krylon works adequately) and your choice of finish color then a couple coats of clear. Make sure you don't fill in the gaps where the ear piece is otherwise you won't hear much.
Your choice on painting the hot keys.
Good idea, I hadn't given any thought to painting the faceplate. If you get a chance, I'd like to see pics of yours once you're finished.
Good luck!
i just bougt a couple of Cingular dummies and dissablem use as parts. The dummy uses real parts. paid like $10 shipped.
BAMF said:
If you get a chance, I'd like to see pics of yours once you're finished.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hopefully I'll get some time this weekend to do it. I'd be more than happy to post some before and after shots.
I found some time this afternoon to start painting. There are a few videos on YouTube regarding disassembly. I did a search for "Treo Take Apart" and found what I needed.
I masked off the "rubbery" coating with blue painters tape, there's probably better stuff to use but that's what I had available. Two light coats of primer, two top coats (I chose white) and then a decent coat of clear.
I'm waiting for it to dry at the moment. I wish I took some in-progress shots but I didn't have the camera handy.
Photos to come soon.
Pimp my Treo
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I still have to take my razor blade and finish cleaning up the groove around the bezel.
I decided to make the sides match. The black IR plate came out (unsnapped) from the housing rather easily. Also removed the side buttons. Your choice on painting them, they are hardened plastic so paint should stick to them. I opted to leave them alone to add a little contrast.
I used Krylon white primer, white gloss top coat and a flexible urethane acrylic clear. All rattle can.
I've used Krylon Fusion (for bonding to plastic) spray paint but I didn't have any handy. If you use Fusion, you don't need to use primer. But in this case I had to since Fusion wasn't available. Might save you some thickness from multiple coats of primer/top coat but in my case it turned out okay.
Remember to keep the coats light - not just for runs but eventually the spray dots all come together and you'll have a nice uniform finish. Be careful not to fill in the small gap around the ear piece. I found that while not spraying it on thick this helped me to prevent such a catastrophe. I made a test phone call and I was able to hear just fine.
Note: I did take a flat jewelers screw driver and raked it across the Cingular logo to bring it down a bit closer to the plastic bezel. After the painting was finished I can't even tell there even was a logo. Prior scratches on the bezel were filled in by the paint and and aren't even noticable.
Also - your choice on painting the memory door cover. I took it off to paint the phone. I think prying it on and off might make the paint chip a little, but I'm letting it cure 24 hours before I put it back on so it doesn't happen on the phone side.
Some bloggers talk about losing cell phone reception. I usually have about one bar in my shop, during my test call after painting I had two. While I don't believe painting helped my reception, I was happy that it didn't attenuate my signal either. So for the record, Krylon White didn't hinder my reception.
Make sure you mask off ANYTHING you don't want to get paint on. From a little experience using a rattle can on various projects, overspray gets reflected from the surface you're spraying on, trickles down in the air, gets everywhere. Mask underneath, the sides, anywhere you don't want your new color to get into.
Regards,
-IanCT
(my first online writeup)
Nice! Thanks for posting up the pics + info! The white faceplate looks good next to the white 0-9 keys, and I like the contrast of the side panels.
Did you do any sanding/scuffing before you put down the primer?
No, I usually don't unless there's a gloss product used for a finish coat.
I was worried I might take down some ridges on the side grip or make a flat spot on the bezel (even though I'm pretty careful)
I agree, I like the white contrasting the blue/black body better than I thought I would.
Thanks for your comments!
So we don't have a lanyard hole on the Desire Z... Obviously HTC want us to drop it and buy a new one every few months ;-)
Has anyone got any ideas as to how we can do this? (or have done this???)
I reckon it needs to be 'hung' from the top right, or bottom right corner as you look at it, then it naturally hangs with the keyboard closed.
Cheers
Rich.
cheeseandjamsandwich said:
So we don't have a lanyard hole on the Desire Z... Obviously HTC want us to drop it and buy a new one every few months ;-)
Has anyone got any ideas as to how we can do this? (or have done this???)
I reckon it needs to be 'hung' from the top right, or bottom right corner as you look at it, then it naturally hangs with the keyboard closed.
Cheers
Rich.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I simply got a hard case that had a hole in it. Both protection and a lanyard spot. Of course, that's if you want a hard case.
I never could figure out why HTC removes the lanyard hole for some phones (G1, G2), and has them for other phones (Touch Pro 2, MyTouch Slide)...
It is a mystery why it isn't included in every phone...
Search results gave me this......
rubin110 said:
And this is how you eventually destroy the case...
http:
//0.starset.net/screenies/loop-20101018-231253.png
Obfuscated link because the admins here like to fight crime before it happens.
And yes charms are stupid, a short 6" lanyard is totally awesome for getting your device out when you're doing other things, like say riding a bike.
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http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=810872&highlight=lanyard
Edit: I would think this idea would work much better if you had a extra back caseing (bodyglove or such case) to add support for the battery door to stay closed.
hmm, you could always use some kind of strong tape to stick the back door down
OK, found this AWESOME tear down of the Desire Z/G2
http:
//tjworld.net/blog/htc-desire-z-tear-down
So looking at the top and bottom right corners, perhaps we could drill an in and out hole to make a bomb proof lanyard anchor.
cheeseandjamsandwich said:
OK, found this AWESOME tear down of the Desire Z/G2
http:
//tjworld.net/blog/htc-desire-z-tear-down
So looking at the top and bottom right corners, perhaps we could drill an in and out hole to make a bomb proof lanyard anchor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wow brill, have you got a desire z, are you going to do this? now i know its a possibility i think i just might get one!
I have always been using lanyards/wrist straps on my smartphones and so will I on my Z.
On my previous device (HD2) I had ordered a case at Piel Frama and they had kindly accepted to add holes on my flip case for free.
Unfortunately for the Desire Z they have not released any flip case due to the physical keyboard.
The only solution I found is buying on Fortte site a flip case allowing using physical keyboard while it's in the case. You can choose your clip and among them there is the wrist strap. I have not received the case yet so cannot give you feedback for the moment.
I haven't totally investigated drilling the top/bottom right hand corner yet... But i reckon that's the go....
I want a solution without any add-on case.
It's pants that HTC don't add the holes... there's no reason other than conspiracy theories, why they shouldn't/couldn't.
Definitely a CIA conspiration
Serisously maybe HTC thinks that smartphones have become too heavy to be carried on with a lanyard? Maybe they are afraid of people who would complaint because of a lanyard (and consequently phone) breakage?
Just my feeling because I don't see any other reason why they would have decided to remove these holes
Going snowboarding tomorrow.
I guess ill use the rear door for a lanyard. Although the a few times my kid has dropped my phone and it comes hurtling off.
It should be fine. I also use something called a lighter leash that I have attached to the inside of my jacket pocket. Its similar to those things you see for id cards in hospitals. You pull on it and the string comes out.
You can use the keyboard hinge for that. It's worked great for me on the G1 and G2.
Only catch is that you can't just loop the lanyard around the hinge, there'd be too much extra string around the hinge. You have to pull the lanyard apart, wrap the string around the hinge, then put it back together. Totally worth it though.
skyjumper said:
You can use the keyboard hinge for that. It's worked great for me on the G1 and G2.
... You have to pull the lanyard apart, wrap the string around the hinge, then put it back together. Totally worth it though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm, that is a tryer, but i think there are already problems with the hinge and id really like a strap attached to the case, im dithering about where to get the torx 5 screwdriver from.
I don't think the hinge will break that easily lol
2 days boarding. no problem with the batter cover lanyard.
I just spent 2 days riding with the battery cover based lanyard.
It worked great and the conditions were pretty rugged.
I can recommend this method and I will use it again.
Any tips on which lanyard to get that can be pulled apart? As my lanyard is glued together in a plastic case where the string reaches the strap.
I've got a temporary solution of dental floss around the case hinge (!) and then that is attached to the lanyard. Dental floss is surprisingly strong. It just looks a bit DIY with some white duct tape wrapped around it...
I didnt see any other threads showing how, just asking how. But i broke my screen monday and thought since I didnt see any I would make a How To.
I take no responsibility if you destroy your phone
I have no ties to this place it just happened to be somewhere in the US that i could buy a screen from in white. http://www.cellphone-repair-shop.com
The arsenal, basic mini magnetic screw driver set, and a guitar pick
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This is how the screen comes and explains why they are $200 its half the phone
1 remove battery cover , battery, sim card, and sd card if you have one.
2 remove the 7 screws that have red arrows pointing at them, you might keep the order but they seemed to be all the same to me
3.use your finger nail and pick to pull housing apart at the volume rocker and slide down pushing in occasionally to help separate
4. remove all connectors and the 2 black screws with red arrows. also completely remove the little blue wire its the radio antenna wire you will have to reinsert later.
5. slowly and carefully remove the board
6. remove this board with the arrow pointing at it from the arrow side you can use your hands or a pry tool
7 remove the small screw from this board shown with the red arrow and remove the board, just becareful there is adhesive where the yellow arrow is pointing
8. remove the earphone/speaker with your fingers pulling from the earphone jack, it has some adhesive on the earphone jack
9 use a small flat head and pry up the metal part and this will remove it exposing the front camera and proximity sensor
10. use a small flat head screwdriver to carefully pry up the the proximity sensor where the red arrow is this has adhesive holding it down, if it doesnt come up with the adhesive you will want to remove you will have to reuse it
and there ya go. now all your have to do is take your new screen and reverse all the steps and everything should work just fine
also if you are really careful you can remove your IMEI sticker with a razor blade and hairdryer and transfer it to your new screen =)
thanks for looking
chris
Nice writeup. Sticky pls!
good job man, you've got the balls to try it out on such a new phone without many people posting feedback
Wonderful write up! If I was a admin I will definitely make it a sticky....
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using XDA
It is truly a painless process. Broke mine on Dec 12th, and just fixed it Wednesday. 7 minutes and it was done. The hardest part is actually getting the new screen. Most online stores stay back ordered. But I am so glad to have it back again.
rebel1699 said:
It is truly a painless process.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
$200 for a new screen doesn't sound painless. Thanks for the info. Very detailed.
Sent from my SGH~I727~Running MHX~SUPERLITE~3.0
200$ still seemes awefully expensive for that, i've never seen such a high price for a lcd/digitizer assembly. I guess i'll have to take extra care of it
Wow! You could teach this to Samsung techs!
Sent from my SGH-I727R using xda premium
thanks. yeah alot of the places i found that had them on ebay was in china and i didnt feel like waiting 3 weeks for something that may or may not be OEM. i came across that place via a google search and called them to make sure they had it in stock. as far as it being 200 its a little more then just digitizer and lcd its like half of the phone. i know i saw one post where someone was compairing it to the $10 3g/s iphone screens.
but i agree the tear down wasnt that hard by any means just takes some care removing the parts with adhesive .I just like helping people with something that i come across
I got mine for $169.99. Shortly after, they raised it to $199.99. It is due to the limited availibility of the part I would guess. Took forever for me to get one in.
can any one give me the part number of white LCD screen of Skyrocket...
nkamurlekar said:
can any one give me the part number of white LCD screen of Skyrocket...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as far as from the company that i got my screen from this is the sku number
GH97-12908B
Wow! Great job ... thanks for sharing.
Great, can you share from where you bought it... i want to buy white LCD Screen
Also be advised- Depending where you get it from, you may have less work to do. The one I got already had the USB connection/ charger board and the proximity sensor and front facing camera installed. I only had to add the main board and antenna assembly. Pretty cool, as I now have extras of those things. Never hurts to have spares!
The place I got it from is in my how to
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using XDA App
Thanks for the high quality images. I replaced my broken screen last night...everything works great. The new screen I ordered from dealrepairs came unattached to the plastic front adding a step. I had to pry off the old broken glass and lcd piece by piece with a razor blade since it's glued in. Have to be careful at the bottom where the home button sensors are attached. The new screen had three pieces of plastic over the adhesive back including a small red piece that had to be removed before setting back into the plastic base.
msprus said:
Thanks for the high quality images. I replaced my broken screen last night...everything works great. The new screen I ordered from dealrepairs came unattached to the plastic front adding a step. I had to pry off the old broken glass and lcd piece by piece with a razor blade since it's glued in. Have to be careful at the bottom where the home button sensors are attached. The new screen had three pieces of plastic over the adhesive back including a small red piece that had to be removed before setting back into the plastic base.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As he said, that plastic base has to be peeled off the screen. Most screens come that way without the plastic bezel. So expect some fun guys.
Hairdryer helps loosen the double sided glue. It looks easy (and is) with a whole screen, when cracked though... OMG /wrist.
Be careful with a razor to peel the tape off the glass for the button sensors. The glass and the razor can damage the filament and/or the LED solder joint.
Most places I see on eBay show a picture like this:
What's up with that? Can we actually remove all this stuff? Or do the boards come like on the OP's picture?
My glass broke, but digitizer and lcd are fine. I just received the glass only from ebay yesterday. blkkouki, how hard do you think it would be to separate the glass from lcd and digitizer and glue the new glass to old lcd/digitizer? I know I will need a heat gun. Thanks.
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Have a laugh, continue with your day
Decided to make something for in-between as my cover needs to come from China, going to take a few weeks.
Remember if you see someone talking to a cardboard box, it doesn't have to be someone mental imitating talking on the phone!
Love it!
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4
buru898 said:
Love it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
I was just jokingly advocating its environmentalist status to a girl, who was rather pinned and asked "How is it any green?"*
I replied to her I was still looking for the right crayon
* ("if you make something for in the meantime while you're awaiting a shipment from China" is probably what she meant)
Hahah good one!
Kind of reminds me of the hands-free headset that has no wires or batteries..
The case makes it look like a Nexus S!
As someone asked on reddit for a tutorial, ill copy it here. Not much you cant figure out yourself.
My case consists of 7 layers of cardboard. Depending on the thickness it may be more or less with others.
1. Take the nexus 4 box. Cut out a few rectangles as big as the box is. (7 was enough for me).
2. In the inside of the nexus 4 box, take the 'tray' out where your nexus4 used to lay in. Fold it open and trace the shape onto a few cardboard pieces. This is going to be your 'bumper' section. You need as much layers as your phone is thick (9.1mm). The shape doesn't need to be perfect, rather cut away too less than too much.
3. Glue them together. It doesn't matter if the hole doesn't match op perfectly.
4. Take a dremel, a drill or any other rotary tool and a sandpaper head. Now sand the hole of the bunper together into the perfect shape. You can use sandpaper and do it by hand if you don't have any tools available.
5. Trace out another piece of cardboard, but this time cut the hole smaller. I just kept the sides by default and took a thumb of thickness extra on the top and bottom. This is your face plate. Pierce two holes on the top where your camera is and proximity sensor.
6. Put the bumper around your phone and mark the sections you want to cut out. Vokume rocker, on-off button, micro usb and the 3.5mm jack.
7. Cut your bumper to pieces and glue it onto your faceplate. Dremel or sand where necessary.
8. Now for the back part: I took two pieces of cardboard. And traced my public transport card on the top of one. Carefully cut out only the top layer if the cardboard and remove the 'waves' or 'ripples' inside.
9. Make an opening in the center of the hole around a fingernail long. This is how you slide the card out.
10. Glue the intact back piece and the card holder piece together so you card will be sandwiched in between.
11. Now you can simply glue them together with your phone inside, or if you want to get it out and leave the box intact, you can make an interlocking mechanism. You can also pierce the corners with a large pick (twist! Don't push, as that ruins your box) or small drill and use some fishing line or hennep strand..gift ribbon even works, to close it up.
finish everything up by sanding or dremelling the sides so they are all correctly aligned and every piece is the same size. You can round your corners too if you wish.
someone do a review on this, looks interesting
dorksturhh said:
someone do a review on this, looks interesting
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually have quite a lot of faith it would work in a droptest from 1 meter high in a cornerdrop (or even flatfaced). If someone wants to sponsor me :3
Send this to MKBHD!
I notice how the layers seperate with the use D:, plastered the sides full of white wood glue now to keep it together.
Pray for me I did not accidentally put glue on my phone
So many reactions I get with my case . I currently also use this wallpaper, but I haven't found a really good one fitting the style.
Looks awesome !!
now thats an awesome cover!!! well done sir! You just changed the history of caver/bumper.
Great bumper! Must do something for the screen!
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4
Svardskampe said:
I notice how the layers seperate with the use D:, plastered the sides full of white wood glue now to keep it together.
Pray for me I did not accidentally put glue on my phone
So many reactions I get with my case . I currently also use this wallpaper, but I haven't found a really good one fitting the style.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Similar to yours but live
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=uistore.fieldsystem.papertownfree
Unfortunately, live wallpapers kill the battery very quickly.
Yesterday I was laughed at it for the first time by a girl with a white Iphone.
Btw, changed the design a bit. By removing the little connections of the openings on the buttons on the faceplate, I have a folding line , so now I can take my phone out.
Better copyright that design before Otterbox steals it
Sent from my neXus⁴ using Tapatalk 2
1slow4G said:
Better copyright that design before Otterbox steals it
Sent from my neXus⁴ using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
Good design in crisis times... Congrats sir
Salute sir :thumbup:
Sent from my Nexus 4
After a month of use I figured I should update how it went on in use. Got my chinese normal business leather case now, so little use for this any more.
(Really, thumbnails don't work on XDA? :/)
But ye. In terms of design, I can take my phone in and out by removing the two connections and create a folding line. In terms of sturdyness: The cardboard disintegrates into ruffles after a while, and ye, made me to just glue the entire thing. It's a semi-TPU case now. (But it made it a lot more solid). The top bit of the face plate came off. Didn't really bother putting it back on, the phone was enclosed enough and just glued over the rest.
Wireless/Inductive Charging With Case for hTC One XL/Evita
Here is a simple mod I did to wirelessly charge my One XL/Evita
This doesn't require opening your phone, will therefore not void your warranty.
It can be used basically with any snap on case.
NFC works fine with mod
YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE IF YOU
DECIDE WILLINGLY TO APPLY THIS MOD TO YOUR PHONE.
Requirements:
1. pencil, paper, tape & ruler
2. soldering iron preferably with a fine tip
3. copper foil adhesive tape, width ≤ 5 mm
4. restover thin cable (width ≤ 1 mm), will use this to make prongs/pins
5. thin transparent plastic sheet (from any old packaging material), to make extension platform
6. thin wireless charging receiver card (qi standard)
7. an avometer is handy if you have one
8. thin double sided tape keeps things tidy
9. Dremel tool if you have one, to grind pins
10. basic drawing and soldering skills
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You will of course need a wireless charging pad.
I went for "qi standard" due to availability and reasonable pricing.
Method:
1. draw your phone on paper with receiver card superimposed, lines where 2 copper foil paths will run between contact points on card and the 2 outer pogo connectors.
Note: upper pogo connector is positive and bottom is ground.
Tip: you can lightly tape paper to phone and rub pencil where pogo connector is to give you an imprint of all connector points
2. cut transparent plastic sheet big enough to cover positions of card and pogo connectors on paper. Tape it lightly to paper and draw the lines on plastic with fine permanent pen.
Notice polarity of both card and pogo connector as in pic
3. you need to remove prongs from charging receiver card by carefully and shortly applying hot soldering iron and either push with solder tip or grab with tweezers.
After this you can lightly tape card to plastic sheet within it's drawing, blue side facing paper and white facing up.
4. cut the copper foil tape into 2 equal strips, each was about 2.5 mm in my case.
5. making pins/prongs was the most challenging part. Strip about 1 cm of thin cable and spread some solder on it just enough to make it solid, then cut in half. You can check at this point if they fit comfortably in your phone's pogo holes, may need a bit of grinding.
6. now carefully solder those 2 pieces of solid wire to ends of copper foil strips while taped on paper, it's better to shorten them after soldering, I had to use my Dremel to grind/dull the edges a bit.
7. tape copper foil strips to plastic sheet along drawn lines, use imagination and fine tweezers to bend foil strip at 2 corners, solder strips to 2 points on card. Plastic sheet can be trimmed to suitable size at this point.
8. if you have an avometer you can check if your connections are intact
9. now place the whole thing on phone aligning pins to appropriate outer pogo holes, small piece of tape should be adequate to keep it in place, snap on your case and slide your phone onto the charging pad!
I need to grind my pins a tad shorter!
Video of my phone charging wirelessly!
How to mute Koolpad wireless charger
Some useful pointers for those interested:
- wireless charging receiver card (for S3) I used didn't interfere with NFC functionality
- this mod works fine with my other HOXL cases, the one above is the thickest though, melkco Premium Leather snap cover
- charging time, averages 10-13% in 1 hour, adequate for overnight charging or desktop topping up
- battery/card gets a bit warm but not hot
Koolpad qi wireless charger
As pictured above is not cheapest around, but it had good reviews.
charging distance 8mm
current 500mA-700mA
doesn't overheat
not very pedantic about how you place/align mobile for charging to start
can be draw power from any USB source (mobile charger, PC, laptop)
doesn't come with own power supply, guess one less to worry about
Muting Koolpad:
The only downside was the beeping it makes when starting charging or if phone not aligned properly.
Fortunately this can be solved by muting the charger in simple following steps:
1. disassemble unit by removing 4 rubber legs and unscrewing 4 screws beneath them
2. this square structure circled in pics below is the beeper which you need to pop open carefully
3. now remove the metal disc in pic and close beeper without it
That is it, assemble the charger pad back and it won't make a beep
BTW I did tape the metallic disc to the inside of the charger before putting it back together, just in case!
Good luck!
nerdo said:
reserved
I'll add some info on how to mute annoying beeper on Koolpad
plus where I got some of the stuff I used in the mod
Good luck!
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Awesome. I'm looking through my stuff and I'll probably order some things and dust off the soldering iron. This is awesome. Thanks!
Thanks for the guide
Thanks for the guide just finished building the wireless charger, you where right the hardest part is getting the wires right for the pins.:good:
I for one think this is awesome and appreciate the work that's gone into it. Well done.
I actually just picked up a fixer upper HTC One X and was planning on doing this mod internally. Didn't think about using the contacts on the back of the phone. Thanks for that idea. If I can get this phone working properly, I will definitely be wiring it that way instead of directly to the usb port or components near it.
timmaaa said:
I for one think this is awesome and appreciate the work that's gone into it. Well done.
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Thanks mate, you are a very helpful XDAer, hard to miss your input in these forums
xxcrashxx said:
I actually just picked up a fixer upper HTC One X and was planning on doing this mod internally. Didn't think about using the contacts on the back of the phone. Thanks for that idea. If I can get this phone working properly, I will definitely be wiring it that way instead of directly to the usb port or components near it.
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Well, I had the same thought initially but I have about a year on my warranty and don't want to void that just yet!
saw different (internal) mods on different devices plus how the newer Samsung devices offer a possibility for a clip on of a receiver card!
I am planning on doing an internal mod for my 1st gen N7, when I get the time.
Second post updated BTW with how to mute Koolpad wireless charger
thanx.
wxw331 said:
thanx.
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Please press the thanks button instead of writing thanks, it's the proper way to show gratitude on XDA.
Sent from my Evita