Wireless/Inductive Charging With Case for hTC One XL/Evita
Here is a simple mod I did to wirelessly charge my One XL/Evita
This doesn't require opening your phone, will therefore not void your warranty.
It can be used basically with any snap on case.
NFC works fine with mod
YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE IF YOU
DECIDE WILLINGLY TO APPLY THIS MOD TO YOUR PHONE.
Requirements:
1. pencil, paper, tape & ruler
2. soldering iron preferably with a fine tip
3. copper foil adhesive tape, width ≤ 5 mm
4. restover thin cable (width ≤ 1 mm), will use this to make prongs/pins
5. thin transparent plastic sheet (from any old packaging material), to make extension platform
6. thin wireless charging receiver card (qi standard)
7. an avometer is handy if you have one
8. thin double sided tape keeps things tidy
9. Dremel tool if you have one, to grind pins
10. basic drawing and soldering skills
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You will of course need a wireless charging pad.
I went for "qi standard" due to availability and reasonable pricing.
Method:
1. draw your phone on paper with receiver card superimposed, lines where 2 copper foil paths will run between contact points on card and the 2 outer pogo connectors.
Note: upper pogo connector is positive and bottom is ground.
Tip: you can lightly tape paper to phone and rub pencil where pogo connector is to give you an imprint of all connector points
2. cut transparent plastic sheet big enough to cover positions of card and pogo connectors on paper. Tape it lightly to paper and draw the lines on plastic with fine permanent pen.
Notice polarity of both card and pogo connector as in pic
3. you need to remove prongs from charging receiver card by carefully and shortly applying hot soldering iron and either push with solder tip or grab with tweezers.
After this you can lightly tape card to plastic sheet within it's drawing, blue side facing paper and white facing up.
4. cut the copper foil tape into 2 equal strips, each was about 2.5 mm in my case.
5. making pins/prongs was the most challenging part. Strip about 1 cm of thin cable and spread some solder on it just enough to make it solid, then cut in half. You can check at this point if they fit comfortably in your phone's pogo holes, may need a bit of grinding.
6. now carefully solder those 2 pieces of solid wire to ends of copper foil strips while taped on paper, it's better to shorten them after soldering, I had to use my Dremel to grind/dull the edges a bit.
7. tape copper foil strips to plastic sheet along drawn lines, use imagination and fine tweezers to bend foil strip at 2 corners, solder strips to 2 points on card. Plastic sheet can be trimmed to suitable size at this point.
8. if you have an avometer you can check if your connections are intact
9. now place the whole thing on phone aligning pins to appropriate outer pogo holes, small piece of tape should be adequate to keep it in place, snap on your case and slide your phone onto the charging pad!
I need to grind my pins a tad shorter!
Video of my phone charging wirelessly!
How to mute Koolpad wireless charger
Some useful pointers for those interested:
- wireless charging receiver card (for S3) I used didn't interfere with NFC functionality
- this mod works fine with my other HOXL cases, the one above is the thickest though, melkco Premium Leather snap cover
- charging time, averages 10-13% in 1 hour, adequate for overnight charging or desktop topping up
- battery/card gets a bit warm but not hot
Koolpad qi wireless charger
As pictured above is not cheapest around, but it had good reviews.
charging distance 8mm
current 500mA-700mA
doesn't overheat
not very pedantic about how you place/align mobile for charging to start
can be draw power from any USB source (mobile charger, PC, laptop)
doesn't come with own power supply, guess one less to worry about
Muting Koolpad:
The only downside was the beeping it makes when starting charging or if phone not aligned properly.
Fortunately this can be solved by muting the charger in simple following steps:
1. disassemble unit by removing 4 rubber legs and unscrewing 4 screws beneath them
2. this square structure circled in pics below is the beeper which you need to pop open carefully
3. now remove the metal disc in pic and close beeper without it
That is it, assemble the charger pad back and it won't make a beep
BTW I did tape the metallic disc to the inside of the charger before putting it back together, just in case!
Good luck!
nerdo said:
reserved
I'll add some info on how to mute annoying beeper on Koolpad
plus where I got some of the stuff I used in the mod
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome. I'm looking through my stuff and I'll probably order some things and dust off the soldering iron. This is awesome. Thanks!
Thanks for the guide
Thanks for the guide just finished building the wireless charger, you where right the hardest part is getting the wires right for the pins.:good:
I for one think this is awesome and appreciate the work that's gone into it. Well done.
I actually just picked up a fixer upper HTC One X and was planning on doing this mod internally. Didn't think about using the contacts on the back of the phone. Thanks for that idea. If I can get this phone working properly, I will definitely be wiring it that way instead of directly to the usb port or components near it.
timmaaa said:
I for one think this is awesome and appreciate the work that's gone into it. Well done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks mate, you are a very helpful XDAer, hard to miss your input in these forums
xxcrashxx said:
I actually just picked up a fixer upper HTC One X and was planning on doing this mod internally. Didn't think about using the contacts on the back of the phone. Thanks for that idea. If I can get this phone working properly, I will definitely be wiring it that way instead of directly to the usb port or components near it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I had the same thought initially but I have about a year on my warranty and don't want to void that just yet!
saw different (internal) mods on different devices plus how the newer Samsung devices offer a possibility for a clip on of a receiver card!
I am planning on doing an internal mod for my 1st gen N7, when I get the time.
Second post updated BTW with how to mute Koolpad wireless charger
thanx.
wxw331 said:
thanx.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please press the thanks button instead of writing thanks, it's the proper way to show gratitude on XDA.
Sent from my Evita
Related
I will start off by saying I had a picture. I know I took it with an old phone but when I started it up again a little bit ago it was not there. Don't know how I managed that. I have to open it again in a few days when my new power button shows up so I will take photos then and add them. For now you get the crappy paint diagram.
I Performed this on an AT&T HOX released back in May Model PJ83100.
This fix gained me FULL or near full WiFi signal in places I was getting ZERO signal before. I could not get WiFi at the back of my house on the inside, now I get connected in my back yard. I really thought this was going to be a waste of time but boy was I surprised at the signal strength after.
I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU BREAK YOUR PHONE DOING THIS OR IF SOMETHING HAPPENS IN THE FUTURE. YOU ARE TAKING THE SAME RISK I AM IN TRYING THIS!
Basically I popped the phone open with a thin guitar pick run along both sides from bottom to top pretty much like every video shows. (DO NOT USE A HOOKED OBJECT, you will be sorry!!!)
On the inside of the back of the case on the left edge just below the usb port hole are two gold contacts. They are the pair closest to the edge of the left side. I saw the letters BT with some numbers before/after them printed on it.
Starting with the lower of the two contact points (farthest from USB hole):
I got out some tinfoil and used an exacto knife to cut a 2 - 3mm wide strip. At one end I made it the same width as the gold contact but twice as long and then folded it over on to itself over that wide section to make it twice as thick at the contact point and the same size as the contact. I took a 3 inch strip of some scotch tape and attached it to some clear plastic. In my case the address "window" on a piece of junk mail. I then used the exacto to cut the strip of tape in to thin strips about 6mm wide. I took the foil piece and laid the wide end over the contact point and let the thin 2-3mm "tail" run along the black cover over the real antenna towards the bottom of the phone. Basically from the contact point straight towards the bottom. I had to dry fit it and trim the thin part (the tail I mentioned earlier) to length so its just as long as the black material under it that covers the actual antenna. I then used a small strip of the tape I trimmed to completely cover thin part of the strip except for the wide part at on top at the contact point.
The Second contact Point (closest to the USB hole):
On this one I did something similar but instead of it being straight it was more ad upside-down "L" shape. The hook in the bottom of the L was the part I put over the contact point and again made it double thick and the same size as the contact point but a bit longer. I then cut the longer "leg" of the L at 2-3mm thickness same as the first piece of foil. There is a space between the BT/WiFi antenna's black insulating cover and a big black square covering nearer the middle of the phone that matches up with it being behind the battery and the NFC antenna just above that. It is the actual polycarbonate of the phone. In other words there are no antenna or anything else there its a white spot on my white phone. I laid the 2-3mm leg in that area directly against the back of the phone and used another thin strip of tape that I had cut similarly to above to cover it. This piece of tape I let run a little longer above and below but not over the part of foil on top of the contact point.
Finally I took a full width piece of tape and went across both foil legs up to the contact point of the first, smaller piece of foil. Again making sure to keep the contact point uncovered. Over the rest of the L shaped piece I used a smaller thin strip of tape above the wider piece to cover the rest of that one a second time.
Bottom line you DO NOT want either piece of foil touching the other and you DO NOT want any of the foil except the area on top of the contact points exposed where some part of the electronics of the phone could touch it and fry your phone. I used scotch tape if you want to, use electrical tape. I wanted something that would come off easily leaving behind little to no residue or doing damage coming off.
If you have done this correctly you should have something that looks like this:
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Adding:
I have seen others talk about using foil or solder to fix this. I am not reposting someone else's idea. I haven't seen anyone do anything with foil other than cover the contact point area to make it thicker and reach the gold prongs on the board.
I'm also adding that there was no real science or theory behind this other than the foil would increase the antenna surface area and the double thick part at the contact point would make a better connection with the phone electronics.
Might try this if I replace the battery with the X+ one.
Sent from my One X using xda premium
Not sure what the inside of the X+ looks like.
I have seen many disassemble videos and only one actually looked like my phone on the inside.
I should add that my Bluetooth worked but was awfully short range when compared to an other phone I have owned. With this change Bluetooth was connecting and staying connected much farther away. Can't say if the quality was good when connected, just noted it was connecting where it wouldn't.
Photo added now. If you note the foil on the upper contact point shifted. I repositioned it closer to the area the prong contacts the back before re-installing. Didn't hurt or help wifi reception anymore than it already has.
I will also add that the power button ribbon cable with attached upper mic replacement was a bit harry. In the videos you can see online it is obvious that the people shooting them don't give a crap about the prongs on the board or putting it back together. They just blow through ripping it apart. When you are worried about it actually working when done you are much more cautious/nervous!
Also, tip for anyone who cares. The screens power comes from two contacts at the top of the board that touch prongs on the top, back of the screen. If you try to turn it on (like I did for testing) and don't get a picture and you didn't screw it down that is why!
After purchasing the excellent SixAxisController for my Nexus 4 so that I could play games on it using my Playstation 3 pad; I came to the realisation that the whole experience wasn't very 'portable' as I had to put my phone down somewhere in order to play it. The best solution is to somehow attach the phone to the PS3 controller.
At first I thought about using a 3rd party device - like the GameKlip. After see the ludicrous price charged for a plastic clip & the even more ludicrous priced charged for shipping, and then buy a holder for the phone, I decided to build my own device.
By pure luck/chance, I was cleaning out my loft a weekends back & was throwing away a lot of old PC spares (I use to build PCs for people) & came across an old Linksys PCI Wireless card. It occurred to me that I could use the antenna connector & the antenna itself as a securing mechanism for a mount that I could attach to the PS4 controller.
Firstly, I removed the antenna connector from the PCI card (I used a small hacksaw) & disassembled the antenna to leave just the base that screwed into the connector.
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Next, I removed the back from my PS3 controller:
After finding the optimal spot for the antenna connector, I drilled a hole in the back of the controller body and attached the antenna connector into it.
This required a little bit of forward planning & modification.
Firstly, I had to hacksaw the connector a little bit more in order for it to miss the controller internals before using epoxy adhesive to glue/bond it into place.
Secondly, before the glue set, I had to position/rotate the connector around so that when the antenna base was screwed into place, it tightened up in the right place (pointing up). Once I was happy with the position, I left the glue to dry & reassembled the controller.
Next, I needed something to would hold my phone & that would attach to the antenna base. The best thing for the job I thought, would be a car screen mount.
After 10 minutes of so, I came across this on eBay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380641748695?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
It seemed just right & for less than £5 delivered I ordered one straight away.
Several days later the screen mount arrived. For £5 its an excellent piece of kit! I might buy another for my car! The phone mount is removable (might be able to get other mounts if you change your phone), the mount can pivot around a ball joint at the top, this allows the phone to be a set at certain angles, and the arm is flexible allowing even more adjustment.
To fit the car mount to the antenna base I had to cut the suction cup off. Under the plastic cover for the arm I found that is was just a soft aluminium rod, so I cut it about a third way down from the phone mount to leave a short but still flexible piece of arm that allow me to bend the mount if needed. I also cut down the cover so I could fit it of the exposed arm.
The next step was fixing it into the antenna base. This was much easier than expected as the antenna base already had a hole in it which the wire for the antenna use to run through. By pure luck the hole was just a right size to fit the mount arm into.
Using epoxy adhesive again, I fixed the phone mount to the antenna base, again making sure that is was in the correct position before the glue dried.
Once all the glue was dry I was good to go.
Unfortunately, I hit a snag straight away when I fitted the phone. Because of the extra weight, the connector base would pivot at the rotation feature for the antenna. To stop this I just superglued it into position. Once that was fixed I found the mount would shake a bit when using the joypad. I found the reason for this was the 'elbow' joint on the antenna base was flexing a little under the weight of the phone. So, I had to epoxy bond the joint into position. Once this was done the mount was rock solid. I still had plenty of adjustment through the ball joint in the phone mount & the flexible arm.
So, now its all complete, it looks like this:
And of course, a photo of the mount with the phone clipped in:
I'm really pleased with it & it only cost me £5 (plus glue & an old PCI wireless card) :good:
The great thing about this phone mount is that it's removable. If I want to use the PS3 controller on the console, I just unscrew the mount from the joypad & all I'm left with is the little connector which is pretty much inconspicuous.
If anyone has any questions regarding the phone mount or how I built it, I'll be happy to answer them.
Berry.
Superb! I wish I could do something like that. Great Job!
Seriously, lately I've seen lots of interesting ideas around here. Should you people try to commercialize your DIY just as @CaramelBoogie did with his dock with pogo charger for Nexus 10
Well done man. This is class!
Very tempted to make one myself after seeing this.
I used to mod and airbrush ps3 and xbox controllers so have a controller or 2 laying around to play with.
Thanks for sharing this :highfive:
Looks so professionally done. Great job.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
fantastic little mod good job
Good work!
I have made one too a few weeks ago.
coalacorey said:
Good work!
I have made one too a few weeks ago.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. But wipe the screen - dirty boy!!
The picture was made a few weeks ago too when I had a screen protector but with it the navigation buttons didn't work properly
Awesome, Love it!
I use to go on long bicycle trips and thus needed a charger for my mobile phone while on tour - especially because I use the phone as GPS/map (osmAnd).
I found a good DIY charger for a hub dynamo on the site (german only): forumslader.de / 12V-Version-mit-zusaetzlichem-USB.209.0.html (sorry, as new user I'm not allowed to post URLs)
So last year, I built it and mounted it in a waterproof case with an external switch panel with USB connectors.
I used it quite succesfully on a 16days trip around Sweden/Finnland. But some months later on a 1day trip, the micro USB socket of my Samsung Galaxy S+ broke. There was heavy rain on this day (and phone protected quite ok in my bag on the handlebar, but of course there was a general problem with moisture just due to humidity). Anyhow, I think the main reason the micro USB socket was broken, were the permant vibrations when using it on a bike in a handlebar mount. And I also think that vibrations are a general problem for micro USB as long as a cable is plugged in and it will ever be on any device.
So, for my new phone - the Xperia Z, I decided to build a charger using the "dock connector" on the side. This also means that I really don't have to care for rain, even while charging.
Voila, here it is:
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So, first I was looking for the electrical characteristics of the dock connector and found them in various threads here on xda-developers.com:
Upper pin: +5V
Lower pin: GND --> This is important: it is also connected to USB GND. So if you ever decide to use a external power supply and USB at the same time, please make sure the "-" of your power supply is grounded or your phone will do.
Charging current: 1,5A-2A
And it is protected against external short-circuit (no current can flow back). This is obvious, otherwise the Xperia Z wouldn't be waterproof.
For the charger this means that you don't have to take care for your phone - only for your charger. In my case, I use a 1A DC/DC converter in my charger that just do not load more than 1A and is short-circuit safe.
Necessary material:
Pogo Pins (e.g. Ingun GKS-113 217 230 R 15 02)*
One strip of acrylic glass
stranded wire
shrinkable tubing
solder
optional: sponge rubber
* they were available on ebay, but I think there are better ones, e.g. with more force (the value after the R is the force in dN, so in my case it is 1,5N) or smaller but better shaped head. The head in my case is quite large (2,3mm) and close to "too large". I suggest < 2mm.
Necessary tools:
Soldering station
heat gun
driller (for the suggested pogo pins, use 2.5mm)
cutter
wire cutter
Cut a strip of acrylic glass (use a cutter, then just break it along the cut line)
Bend one side approx 90 degrees by heating the acrylic glass with the heat gun and use a corner e.g. on your desk or workbench to bend it around
measure the distance around your phone (please keep in mind that it must go around your bicycle mount) and mark the bending corner on the acrylic glass strip
Bend the other side with the heat gun. Try if it fits, if not just heat it up again and adjust the bending.
Mark the position of the holes for the pogo pins (please again keep in mind that the acrylic glass must go around your bicycle mount)
Drill the holes. If the pins do not fit, just move the acyrlic glass around the rotating drilling shaft carefully to slightly increase the size of the hole.
Mount the Pogo Pins
place the shrinkable tubings on the wires and then solder the wires to the pogo pins
wait for the pins to cool down and then move the shrinkable tubings above the pin and shrink them with the heat gun. (fast, don't heat up the acrylic glass again).
if necessary place some sponge rubber into the bending to protect your phone and to absorb some vibrations.
connect the wire to your 5V power supply.
Additional information about things shown in the pictures:
GPS software: osmAnd (free, premium 5,99€, OSS, can be installed from source, too).
Bike mount: from Amazon (Germany), 8,99€: "mumbi Fahrrad Halterung Sony Xperia Z Motorrad Halter / Fahrradhalterung Motorradhalterung"
Charging electronics: See forumslader.de . There is also a new version that don't need any external switch box and can be installed into the headtube.
Box for charger electronics: Bopla 63205000 (Reichelt: BOPLA ET-205, 4,95€)
Buffer batteries: I also connected 10xAA batteries (rechargable) to the charger electronics. (Reichelt: "HALTER 10XUM3QDK", 1,10€) and used shrinkable tubings to make it water-proof. I also have a spare batterie holder, so if necessary I can buy some batteries in the supermarket and charge my phone this way.
external switch box: I tried to build the switches (high speed/normal / charging on/off), info LEDs and USB connectors in one extra box and to build it quite waterproof to. Waterproof switches are quite large and so is the box. I think I won't use waterproof switches in the future and just place the (then smaller) box into my handlebar bag, when it rains.
Cabling: This is also work in progress, I should add connectors between the charger box and the battery pack or the external switch box. But waterproof connectors are quite expensive.
Conclusion:
I used the charger on some tours and it works fine. In case of heavy vibrations or shocks, the phone sometimes stops charging. This maybe better with stronger pogo pins (5N or 3N instead of 1,5N).
In general, the power of a hub dynomo is not sufficient to charge a phone when display is on. So switch the display off whenever possible and try to save power as much as possible (flight mode, Stamina Mode).
Hi guys,
I bought myself a QI charging board for my Nexus 4 a few days ago, and decided to build a dock out of the Depron I normally use for RC planes. Now I want to share my build-process to you, as well as the blueprints I created and used.
If you want to build one, too, you need the following parts/tools:
1x A4 sheet of 3mm Depron
1x A4 sheet of 6mm Depron (or another 3mm if you don't get 6mm)
a SHARP cutter knife
UHU® Por Styropor-glue or similar glue
my attached blueprint as PDF and dxf for LibreCAD
and of course, a QI board, e.g. Amazon.de | Amazon.com
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After you printed the pages of attached PDF to an A4 paper, you can softly glue the first page onto the Depron sheet with some sort of spray glue, I used 3M SprayMount for it.
Wait with the second page, for now.
Then cut out the parts with the knife, be careful not to hurt yourself! The knife should be very sharp that the Depron gets cut cleanly, and doesn't rip.
Don't cut out the parts marked red in the blueprint, they should only be slit slightly. After you finished one part, you can safely remove the paper from it, use the knife to pull it away. Put away all parts except the ones with the red mark. Use the knife to remove a layer of about 1mm inside the red circles, look at the picture for a template.
You do the same at the position where we later store the cable, look again at the picture for a template.
Remove the coil from the board with a soldering iron, as the cable is too short currently. Solder the coil onto piece of cable then, don't connect the cable to the board by now!
Glueing time!
Begin with the parts which hold the QI coil: first put the coil into the backplate, then glue the front plate on it. My glue required me to put glue on both sides, wait 10 mins, and then stick them together.
While the backplate dries, glue the two triangles to the long rectangular, this will later keep the phone from sliding to the front/hold the phone at the charging plate.
After everything has dried, glue the front part to the backplate.
Glue the triangle to the backplate like this:
Now take one of the bottom plates, and cut a hole for the cable. I marked the position with a pencil, I suggest you doing the same. Glue the bottom plate to the other parts.
Now it's time for the second page of my PDF:
This page should either be glued to an 6mm Depron sheet, you then only need to cut out one of the parts, or you glue it to a sheet of 3mm Depron, and cut out both parts, which then will be glued together.
Glue the just created part on the remaining bottom plate from the first sheet, and lay the circuit board into it.
Cut the cable from the coil to a suitable length and solder it to the board. Be very careful while soldering, Depron melts easily, also make sure the cables don't get to hot! Then, you can glue the bottom case and the plate together, and you're basically finished!
In the end you can apply some finishing touches, like smoothening the borders/edges where you glued pieces together. You can of course also paint the dock in any color you like, I will maybe paint mine with a black acrylic dye later..
Result:
I hope you liked my little How-To, if you have any suggestions or ideas, feel free to comment.
//View all images: http://imgur.com/a/LJB6b
I am gonna try this.
Thanks
first of all, very nice charger. nice work and thank you for sharing.
now i have two questions.
1) how much time does it take to charge and how much ampers does that charger output?
2)does the charger circuit overheat in the base?
thank you in advance
ttheodorou said:
first of all, very nice charger. nice work and thank you for sharing.
now i have two questions.
1) how much time does it take to charge and how much ampers does that charger output?
2)does the charger circuit overheat in the base?
thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I charged the device from 20% to 100% this morning, and it took about 2½ hours (probably less) to charge, I didn't look on the clock though.. Ampere says about 600mA with a 2A ZTE charger connected to the board, I cannot use the Nexus 4 charger (Got an US version).
Overheating was my biggest fear, but it actually stays absolutely cool. When well positioned (like on the dock) it stays cool, far away from melting the Depron, while when I in before just laid the phone onto the coil outside the dock, it got pretty hot.
Ah, and next time, please don't quote the whole OP. Maybe even edit your post now.
Sent using my nexus⁴ running Euphoria 1.0 with Xposed and hells-Core B69-t4 L
Bitcoin donation address
Maxr1998 said:
Well, I charged the device from 20% to 100% this morning, and it took about 2½ hours (probably less) to charge, I didn't look on the clock though.. Ampere says about 600mA with a 2A ZTE charger connected to the board, I cannot use the Nexus 4 charger (Got an US version).
Overheating was my biggest fear, but it actually stays absolutely cool. When well positioned (like on the dock) it stays cool, far away from melting the Depron, while when I in before just laid the phone onto the coil outside the dock, it got pretty hot.
Ah, and next time, please don't quote the whole OP. Maybe even edit your post now.
Sent using my nexus⁴ running Euphoria 1.0 with Xposed and hells-Core B69-t4 L
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force of habbit the quote. thanks for your answer. i will probably try to built this when i get my hands on the parts!! thanks again
ttheodorou said:
force of habbit the quote. thanks for your answer. i will probably try to built this when i get my hands on the parts!! thanks again
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No problem. Glad that you like it
Quick status update: I found out that the triangle stabilizing the charging pad isn't that robust, so I suggest either using a 6mm Depron for it or even two 6mm Depron triangles at the left and the right edge..
Sent using my nexus⁴ running Euphoria 1.0 with Xposed and hells-Core B69-t4 L
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Looks incredibly great!
Definitely giving this a go when i have the time!
So, I just picked up my new S6. Still playing around.
I ordered a few cases on Amazon, so they should be here in a couple of days. I was looking at all the cases and didn't see one that had a metal back.
So, here are my case wants:
1. Keep it fairly slim
2. No holsters
3. Kick stand would be nice, but if it adds thickness, no thanks.
4. Must allow for wireless charging with case on.
5. Would love to be able to mount a metal plate on the back or maybe it already have a metal backing, but still allow for wireless charging. This is probably one of the most important for me. I am currently using an iOttie car mount and I love it for the fact that the magnet holds my phone (previous LG G2) so secure and it is so easy to take on and off.
These are the two mounts that I use:
http://www.amazon.com/Mount-iOttie-...418&sr=1-1&keywords=iottie+magnetic+car+mount
http://www.amazon.com/iMagnet-Cradl...im_cps_22?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ZBMZPMH36M6R4TF6518
I would mount the metal plate to the case you like and try its location first to ensure it is not blocking the wireless charging. I don't think the wireless charging will work if the metal plate is in the way.
I can confirm that the backplates that come with iOttie car mount block wireless charging. I just tried them today and figured it out. Don't use that mount if you intend to utilize wireless charging.
Mine is going back to Amazon
I have an iMagnet mount, and the metal plates absolutely block wireless charging. I experimented by just setting the plate on the charger and then setting my phone on it. There are also a lot of stories floating around of people using cases with any amount of metal having various issues.
For a slim case with a kickstand, I'd recommend the Spigen SlimArmor. My wife got it and really likes it.
ForgeI have also a Spigen case, my one is the Tough Armor, you can try with the hybrid or slim armor.
EDIT:
I forgot this link
http://www.sammobile.com/2015/04/18...r-galaxy-s6-s6-edge-pre-order-on-kickstarter/
Whaaaa?? Does that really work?
The case is already metal, can't we just attach it to the magnetic holder?!?
Thanks for posting this question. I have a magnetic holder plate that inserts into the back of a case from okra. I love it. Just by chance I placed my phone without attaching the magnetic plate against the holder and it attached because the back of the S6 is metal. I was excited until my daughter mention that it may cause problems with the battery inside the phone or any other functions in the phone.
What are you thoughts on that guys?
Thanks,
YoditDeet
YoditDeet said:
Thanks for posting this question. I have a magnetic holder plate that inserts into the back of a case from okra. I love it. Just by chance I placed my phone without attaching the magnetic plate against the holder and it attached because the back of the S6 is metal. I was excited until my daughter mention that it may cause problems with the battery inside the phone or any other functions in the phone.
What are you thoughts on that guys?
Thanks,
YoditDeet
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If you don't use wireless charging, I couldn't see any reasonable issue with the magnetic plate/mount toward the battery. I have used the magnetic mount with my (former) iPhone 6, and I didn't see any issue with any functions of the phone at all. Someone may have better knowledge on this subject than my own amateur observations.
I noticed the same with my iMagnet mount. Unfortunately, the glass back of the phone was too slick and it would slide off. When I put a case on it, the grip of the case was enough to let the metal phone stick to the magnet, but after a few days, it started to slide, as well. If you can get a case with enough grippiness to it, it might stick to the magnet without a metal plate.
So, I know it didn't work with my LG2 no matter how I tried to position the metal plate. Inside or out of the case. It interferes with the wireless charging.
Now, with the S6, a little bigger back, using the Neo Hybrid case, putting the plate so that it just aligns with the line of the S in the Spigen logo. It works. It holds solid on both suction cup and vent mount. I put the suction cup mount on the glove compatment opened it and shook the hell out of it and it stayed in.
Next, I tried the charger at first it did the on and off charge loop, then I moved it a smidge lower and perfect, with the phone about dead center on the Samsung charge pad and it was charging away.
One note, after a few hours I took off my phone and felt the back. Warm like normal, but the metal plate was a bit warm. Not skin burning hot, but warm like I was sitting on it and let out a 10 minute fart, just without the smell.
So you're saying that the plate is nearly at the bottom of the phone?
Those who wanted to use wireless charging and having magnetic holder. IT CAN BE DONE!!!!
Dont even bother putting any metal strip on the phone. S6 itself can be put straight into the magnetic holder. It works because inside s6 contained copper wires which used for wireless charging.
Check out Airdock. It's a wireless charger and the dock is made of some sort of micro suction mat. It holds my old S4 (which has a smooth plastic back) firmly, so I would imagine it'll grip on to the S6's glass back even better. It also has built in magnets to add to the grip.
Alvin Tiong said:
Those who wanted to use wireless charging and having magnetic holder. IT CAN BE DONE!!!!
Dont even bother putting any metal strip on the phone. S6 itself can be put straight into the magnetic holder. It works because inside s6 contained copper wires which used for wireless charging.
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This might mean more if copper wasn't such a weakly magnetic metal. I think it has more to do with the metal body, though that's probably mostly aluminum, which is also only weakly magnetic. It's probably just the total combination of all the metal in the phone.
flu13 said:
This might mean more if copper wasn't such a weakly magnetic metal. I think it has more to do with the metal body, though that's probably mostly aluminum, which is also only weakly magnetic. It's probably just the total combination of all the metal in the phone.
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When I put mine on the magnetic car holder, it held pretty firmly. Going through couple of bump or sharp turn, the phone still doesn't move at all. My phone is with a transparent TPU case. I think a good quality magnetic car holder is the key. The magnet got to be strong enough and the front of the magnet need to have a rubbery surface to avoid sliding off.
My magnetic car holder is http://www.infiniappstands.com/products/the-silly-goose
Here is how I have the mount on the back of the phone.
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It works really well in that location. Holds tight and still works with wireless charging.