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Possible to debrand housing?

Has anyone successfully removed the carrier logo form their Treo 750's casing? If so, what products/methods did you use? I was thinking maybe nail polish remover for the faceplate, would this be too strong? Not even sure where to begin though on the battery cover -- I'm afraid to mess up the rubber-like finish on it.
I bought my 750 on eBay non-working and fixed it up (water damage be damned!) but the OEM Cingular casing is pretty beat up. I ordered what was supposed to be a new unbranded housing from an eBay seller in Hong Kong (yeah, I shoulda known better). Surprise, it gets here today and not only is it obviously used (scratches all over the back), it has big freakin' AT&T logos on it! It's not worth the shipping cost to send it back, so if anyone has any tips on how to debrand it, I'd certainly appreciate it.

try to rub the logo off with a sugar cube, sounds weird but try it.

you gonna create damage if you try to debrand cause there is a thick clear coat overlay on the logo, its gonna look odd.

Well I've been rocking the AT&T housing for a while now and I think I'm just going to leave it as-is. The front logo is pretty discrete, it is much less obtrusive than the Cingular one with the little orange man. I'm just going to keep an eye on eBay and see if a genuine unbranded one pops up.
I'll give the sugar cube a shot on the old Cingular housing though and it it works ok on that maybe I'll take a crack at this new faceplate.
Thanks!

BAMF said:
Has anyone successfully removed the carrier logo form their Treo 750's casing? If so, what products/methods did you use? I was thinking maybe nail polish remover for the faceplate, would this be too strong? Not even sure where to begin though on the battery cover -- I'm afraid to mess up the rubber-like finish on it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nail polish remover will remove it but it can also melt the plastic. As well as bubble the rubbery coating on the rear.
I too bought a used 750 on eBay. Got it yesterday. It's got some light scratches on the case but the screen is scratch-free. I'm going to take the front bezel off and prep/paint it.
Use buildable primer (Krylon works adequately) and your choice of finish color then a couple coats of clear. Make sure you don't fill in the gaps where the ear piece is otherwise you won't hear much.
Your choice on painting the hot keys.

Good idea, I hadn't given any thought to painting the faceplate. If you get a chance, I'd like to see pics of yours once you're finished.
Good luck!

i just bougt a couple of Cingular dummies and dissablem use as parts. The dummy uses real parts. paid like $10 shipped.

BAMF said:
If you get a chance, I'd like to see pics of yours once you're finished.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hopefully I'll get some time this weekend to do it. I'd be more than happy to post some before and after shots.

I found some time this afternoon to start painting. There are a few videos on YouTube regarding disassembly. I did a search for "Treo Take Apart" and found what I needed.
I masked off the "rubbery" coating with blue painters tape, there's probably better stuff to use but that's what I had available. Two light coats of primer, two top coats (I chose white) and then a decent coat of clear.
I'm waiting for it to dry at the moment. I wish I took some in-progress shots but I didn't have the camera handy.
Photos to come soon.

Pimp my Treo
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I still have to take my razor blade and finish cleaning up the groove around the bezel.
I decided to make the sides match. The black IR plate came out (unsnapped) from the housing rather easily. Also removed the side buttons. Your choice on painting them, they are hardened plastic so paint should stick to them. I opted to leave them alone to add a little contrast.
I used Krylon white primer, white gloss top coat and a flexible urethane acrylic clear. All rattle can.
I've used Krylon Fusion (for bonding to plastic) spray paint but I didn't have any handy. If you use Fusion, you don't need to use primer. But in this case I had to since Fusion wasn't available. Might save you some thickness from multiple coats of primer/top coat but in my case it turned out okay.
Remember to keep the coats light - not just for runs but eventually the spray dots all come together and you'll have a nice uniform finish. Be careful not to fill in the small gap around the ear piece. I found that while not spraying it on thick this helped me to prevent such a catastrophe. I made a test phone call and I was able to hear just fine.
Note: I did take a flat jewelers screw driver and raked it across the Cingular logo to bring it down a bit closer to the plastic bezel. After the painting was finished I can't even tell there even was a logo. Prior scratches on the bezel were filled in by the paint and and aren't even noticable.
Also - your choice on painting the memory door cover. I took it off to paint the phone. I think prying it on and off might make the paint chip a little, but I'm letting it cure 24 hours before I put it back on so it doesn't happen on the phone side.
Some bloggers talk about losing cell phone reception. I usually have about one bar in my shop, during my test call after painting I had two. While I don't believe painting helped my reception, I was happy that it didn't attenuate my signal either. So for the record, Krylon White didn't hinder my reception.
Make sure you mask off ANYTHING you don't want to get paint on. From a little experience using a rattle can on various projects, overspray gets reflected from the surface you're spraying on, trickles down in the air, gets everywhere. Mask underneath, the sides, anywhere you don't want your new color to get into.
Regards,
-IanCT
(my first online writeup)

Nice! Thanks for posting up the pics + info! The white faceplate looks good next to the white 0-9 keys, and I like the contrast of the side panels.
Did you do any sanding/scuffing before you put down the primer?

No, I usually don't unless there's a gloss product used for a finish coat.
I was worried I might take down some ridges on the side grip or make a flat spot on the bezel (even though I'm pretty careful)
I agree, I like the white contrasting the blue/black body better than I thought I would.
Thanks for your comments!

How NOT to separate the LCD and digitizer!

The very thin outer layer of my digitizer peeled off in one spot and my touchscreen stopped working, so I bought a new digitizer on ebay. Then I took apart my phone and got down to the LCD/digitizer, which are glued together. I tried to pull them apart and the LCD split apart, leaving one half firmly glued to the digitizer. Following are pics showing the broken apart LCD/digitizer below the new one, and a close up of one half of the LCD. The rainbow sheen is the oily liquid crystal of the LCD.
If you have to replace the LCD or the digitizer, I highly recommend buying the combo already glued together. Unless you already know how to separate them, you're gonna fail. After breaking mine I went back to ebay and found a LCD/digitizer combo for very cheap - $20. http://cgi.ebay.com/OEM-HTC-FUZE-LCD-Display-Screen-Digitizer-Touch_W0QQitemZ270457207798QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPDA_Accessories?hash=item3ef8817bf6 I hope it's not a mistake, and only the digitizer, but I figured I'd risk it for $20. Also, the seller has positive feedback for this same auction. I'll find out in a week or two; shipping from Hong Kong was very slow for my first digitizer.
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Ouch,
That must have send some nasty shivers down your spine when that happened.
Hope you get a full combo for that price (which is amazingly cheap).
Good luck with the repairs,
EqX

Yeah, I hope it goes well too. Keep us posted on how it all goes, my digitizer is starting to have some lifting problems too so I would love any feedback on the process.

I had the same problem....but I have bought digitizer and lcd at once, and succsesfuly replaced them, actualy, when disasembling the htc, i have cut the speeker wire...., and after that i have order new speeker...
Anyway, now it is working better than when bought.
P.S., the LCD you have found, seller is the same...I bought from him also, (when you replace the part, you will notice that lcd contrast is not like before....)
bye.

gruya011 said:
I had the same problem....but I have bought digitizer and lcd at once, and succsesfuly replaced them,.....
P.S., the LCD you have found, seller is the same...I bought from him also, (when you replace the part, you will notice that lcd contrast is not like before....)
bye.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean "you will notice that lcd contrast is not like before..."? Does it mean better contrast or worse?

<Removed>

And, so how SHOULD WE separate them?? Somebody please explain if you have any tips. I also got a new LCD top panel. I really don't want to get a similar result to this!

I got the LCD kit http://cgi.ebay.com/OEM-HTC-FUZE-LC...wItemQQptZPDA_Accessories?hash=item3ef8817bf6 and it does, indeed, include the LCD and digitizer. For only $20! Not only that, but it also includes a new front body piece and the LCD/digitizer are already installed. This is quite a relief because I was not looking forward to figuring out how to re-glue the new ones in the old body and have it not come out crappy. I have no idea how they can sell this item and profit.
I've posted a pic of the item's front, back, and finished install. I notice no difference in contrast whatsoever from the original screen. It's possible these really are OEM parts that somehow walked off the factory assembly line. I couldn't discern any differences from the original parts in a close inspection, and usually you can see minor differences in cheap copies.
To install, you just have to move the earpiece, buttons (power, volume rocker, PTT), flex circuit wiring harness, and hard buttons over to the new part, then reassemble reverse from the disassembly.
Overall I'm quite satisfied. The only negative is that there was no protective plastic layer over the screen, only plastic shrink wrap around the entire unit, and because of that there are some tiny scratches on the screen as seen in the last pic (there is no dust/hair on the screen, those are scratches.) It's really not as bad as the pic makes it look. You can't even see the scratches unless you hold the phone so that light reflects off in just the right manner, and when greasy from fingerprints, you can't see them at all. It might be possible to buff them out, but I'm totally satisfied with the results as is.
gruya011 said:
I had the same problem....but I have bought digitizer and lcd at once, and succsesfuly replaced them, actualy, when disasembling the htc, i have cut the speeker wire...., and after that i have order new speeker...
Anyway, now it is working better than when bought.
P.S., the LCD you have found, seller is the same...I bought from him also, (when you replace the part, you will notice that lcd contrast is not like before....)
bye.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I broke my speaker wires, as well! On the first reassembly I forgot to replug the connector, and when I snapped the phone together one wire somehow broke. While trying to repair, I broke the other speaker wire and ended up running over the connector with my office shair. To fix I bought some 30g magnet wire (very thin stuff) and soldered to pieces of wire from the speaker terminals straight to the two spots just in front of the connector, which I correctly guessed were test points or something on the speaker traces.

Adhesive for replacing digitizer?

Hey guys, I'm attempting to replace my digitizer for the second time after my first attempt ended up with a digitizer which was a distinctly different shape than the original and therefore looks terrible! Anyhow I'm looking for a decent adhesive to keep it in place. Would pretty much anything do or does anyone have a preference?
Cheers!

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Here is the stuff I used, working great so far.. Not sure where you could get it (maybe frys or something) (I grabbed some from work).. its thin, double sided, super sticky once it sets, and made by 3M.. I just cut it into very thin strips using a ruler and exacto blade.. If you have trouble finding some, I have enough leftover that I could mail you to get the job done..
fam
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App

also, i used a couple drops of super glue on the top portion (where there is a decent amount of plastic surface area)..

Cheers, that looks pretty perfect, didn't even know that was available! I'm in the UK but thanks for offering I should hopefully be able to find some locally, thanks again.

Hollow.Droid said:
Cheers, that looks pretty perfect, didn't even know that was available! I'm in the UK but thanks for offering I should hopefully be able to find some locally, thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if you cant find it locally try amazon or:
http://cgi.ebay.com/2mm-3M-Adhesive...391482?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4aa6a4b2fa
another thing, something that is probably more "locally available" would be to buy the 3M digitizer tape for an iphone, and cut it up into the 4 strips you'll need

I used some of the loctite superglue gel. Very very thin layer of it and it worked great, I didn't like how the original digitizer sat flush with the frame of the phone, after using the superglue the digitizer is slightly below the frame so it the phone was dropped face down the frame would hit the ground first hopefully saving the screen

famandeggs said:
if you cant find it locally try amazon or:
http://cgi.ebay.com/2mm-3M-Adhesive...391482?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4aa6a4b2fa
another thing, something that is probably more "locally available" would be to buy the 3M digitizer tape for an iphone, and cut it up into the 4 strips you'll need
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ended up going with this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...223992&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_3749wt_905
I made sure it wasn't the foam kind and it's double sided so should hopefully do the job nicely. Fingers crossed
dowmace said:
I used some of the loctite superglue gel. Very very thin layer of it and it worked great, I didn't like how the original digitizer sat flush with the frame of the phone, after using the superglue the digitizer is slightly below the frame so it the phone was dropped face down the frame would hit the ground first hopefully saving the screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I'm going with a combo of the tape and superglue, just because I don't trust myself to be delicate with superglue down the sides
I'll have to post some pics of the before and after, just to give a sense of how crap the first replacement was. It's so poor I'm using a full body case to keep the digitizer held in! It also lacks the bottom buttons and is the incorrect size (Around 1cm in total, top and bottom) compared to the original digitizer. It's gonna be a nice day when it's back to tip top condition

Cheers buddies! very useful stuff

Anyone happen to know where I can pick up the thick foamy type adhesive? Some of it is torn around edges & want to fill in the gaps with something better than 4 layers of the thin 3m stuff. I might try tiny strips of electrical tape in those spots, but would rather proper real thing.

Hi
Re
Here is the stuff I used, working great so far.. Not sure where you could get it (maybe frys or something) (I grabbed some from work).. its thin, double sided, super sticky once it sets, and made by 3M.. I just cut it into very thin strips using a ruler and exacto blade.. If you have trouble finding some, I have enough leftover that I could mail you to get the job done..
fam
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App[/QUOTE]
Hi I am trying to replace my nephews screen and need the adheisive do you still have some left and are you still willing to send it. I cant find it anywhere

adhesive for digitizer...
Hollow.Droid said:
Hey guys, I'm attempting to replace my digitizer for the second time after my first attempt ended up with a digitizer which was a distinctly different shape than the original and therefore looks terrible! Anyhow I'm looking for a decent adhesive to keep it in place. Would pretty much anything do or does anyone have a preference?
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
..
you can use zhan lida t8000.
its widely use for mobile screen like asus,samsung etc
it can easily removed at time of replacement usnig dryer or heat gun.

Broken Screen, Need help knowing what to replace.

The glass part of my screen broke recently but it kept functioning, I could still use it like nothing was wrong. Then earlier today my screen went black but I can still feel the haptic feedback when pressing the menu and other buttons. I would just like to know, do I have to buy the digitizer along with the screen, just the screen or just the LCD. Thanks in advance.

Search replacing screen i727 xda. It's been discussed before. From what I remember you need to replace the screen and digitizer. It's next to impossible to separate the two.
God promised men that he'd put beautiful women in all corners of the world. Then he laughed and laughed and made the world round

jd1639 said:
Search replacing screen i727 xda. It's been discussed before. From what I remember you need to replace the screen and digitizer. It's next to impossible to separate the two.
God promised men that he'd put beautiful women in all corners of the world. Then he laughed and laughed and made the world round
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the help

thefief said:
Thanks for the help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome
Sent from my SGH-I727R using xda app-developers app

thefief said:
The glass part of my screen broke recently but it kept functioning, I could still use it like nothing was wrong. Then earlier today my screen went black but I can still feel the haptic feedback when pressing the menu and other buttons. I would just like to know, do I have to buy the digitizer along with the screen, just the screen or just the LCD. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After changing a bunch of screens for both apple and android....I would always recommend buying the complete LCD & digitizer screen replacement referred to as a screen assembly....if not it involves heat guns lots of glue that is not ment to unstick and so forth..... Most devices including the i727 make changing the screen assembly easy...
There are plenty of sites out there to show you step by step for most devices such as ifixit its my go to...for many devices and they have parts also. YouTube is another treasure trove.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using xda app-developers app

Fixing screen
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I had just gotten my Skyrocket setup exactly like I wanted it and then it slipped off the seat of the car and I stepped on it. You have to replace the entire screen/digitizer assembly. There are some good you tubes on how to do that. I'll let you in on a "what not to do". I inadvertently severed the cable to the lighted buttons. No prob its an $8.00 fix. I put the new screen back in the phone, which is held by double sided tape so it wouldn't hurt to order some also. When the new cable came I looked at the phone and thought the hole at the top of the screen would be good leverage to remove the screen as I had scraped off most of the old adhesive. That was a mistake and almost a huge mistake. I cracked the new screen when I pulled on that opening on the new screen. I was just about to throw it in the trash and thought that I had the screen cable readily accessible I should plug it in. It worked perfectly- the digitizer doesn't go up that far and my case protector covers 95% of the broken screen area. It has worked perfectly since before Embryo 5. One of these days I'll get around to replacing the screen with a new one but not today. Have a pix attached.
thefief said:
The glass part of my screen broke recently but it kept functioning, I could still use it like nothing was wrong. Then earlier today my screen went black but I can still feel the haptic feedback when pressing the menu and other buttons. I would just like to know, do I have to buy the digitizer along with the screen, just the screen or just the LCD. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

thefief said:
The glass part of my screen broke recently but it kept functioning, I could still use it like nothing was wrong. Then earlier today my screen went black but I can still feel the haptic feedback when pressing the menu and other buttons. I would just like to know, do I have to buy the digitizer along with the screen, just the screen or just the LCD. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I broke my screen and replaced it for $150 off ebay. Just buy the LCD, it comes with the digitizer and faceplate, everything you need. You can't just separate the two and do it yourself for cheap, you'll ruin it. Took me no more than 10 minutes from start to finish. I recommend getting something to pry open your phone (the kits are like $2) because if you use anything like a flathead or what not, you'll scratch and chip the edges. Nails work but it's frustrating and you might put too much force trying to pry it and snap a clip.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vf6jqYejWNU (try to ignore his coke nail)
This video is what I used to make sure there weren't any cables I had to worry about when opening it. 7 screws, some patience prying it apart and your phone is open. The rest is just swapping out the internals to your new screen. It's really simple. Not worth sending it off for $200+ and being without your phone for a week just to keep your warranty. It's probably up or almost up anyway and you still have a nice, new-looking phone to sell when you're done with it.
Plus you get the satisfaction of fixing your phone yourself.

Unique nexus 4 cover/bumper. Environment friendly!

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Have a laugh, continue with your day
Decided to make something for in-between as my cover needs to come from China, going to take a few weeks.
Remember if you see someone talking to a cardboard box, it doesn't have to be someone mental imitating talking on the phone!

Love it!
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

buru898 said:
Love it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
I was just jokingly advocating its environmentalist status to a girl, who was rather pinned and asked "How is it any green?"*
I replied to her I was still looking for the right crayon
* ("if you make something for in the meantime while you're awaiting a shipment from China" is probably what she meant)

Hahah good one!
Kind of reminds me of the hands-free headset that has no wires or batteries..

The case makes it look like a Nexus S!

As someone asked on reddit for a tutorial, ill copy it here. Not much you cant figure out yourself.
My case consists of 7 layers of cardboard. Depending on the thickness it may be more or less with others.
1. Take the nexus 4 box. Cut out a few rectangles as big as the box is. (7 was enough for me).
2. In the inside of the nexus 4 box, take the 'tray' out where your nexus4 used to lay in. Fold it open and trace the shape onto a few cardboard pieces. This is going to be your 'bumper' section. You need as much layers as your phone is thick (9.1mm). The shape doesn't need to be perfect, rather cut away too less than too much.
3. Glue them together. It doesn't matter if the hole doesn't match op perfectly.
4. Take a dremel, a drill or any other rotary tool and a sandpaper head. Now sand the hole of the bunper together into the perfect shape. You can use sandpaper and do it by hand if you don't have any tools available.
5. Trace out another piece of cardboard, but this time cut the hole smaller. I just kept the sides by default and took a thumb of thickness extra on the top and bottom. This is your face plate. Pierce two holes on the top where your camera is and proximity sensor.
6. Put the bumper around your phone and mark the sections you want to cut out. Vokume rocker, on-off button, micro usb and the 3.5mm jack.
7. Cut your bumper to pieces and glue it onto your faceplate. Dremel or sand where necessary.
8. Now for the back part: I took two pieces of cardboard. And traced my public transport card on the top of one. Carefully cut out only the top layer if the cardboard and remove the 'waves' or 'ripples' inside.
9. Make an opening in the center of the hole around a fingernail long. This is how you slide the card out.
10. Glue the intact back piece and the card holder piece together so you card will be sandwiched in between.
11. Now you can simply glue them together with your phone inside, or if you want to get it out and leave the box intact, you can make an interlocking mechanism. You can also pierce the corners with a large pick (twist! Don't push, as that ruins your box) or small drill and use some fishing line or hennep strand..gift ribbon even works, to close it up.
finish everything up by sanding or dremelling the sides so they are all correctly aligned and every piece is the same size. You can round your corners too if you wish.

someone do a review on this, looks interesting

dorksturhh said:
someone do a review on this, looks interesting
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually have quite a lot of faith it would work in a droptest from 1 meter high in a cornerdrop (or even flatfaced). If someone wants to sponsor me :3

Send this to MKBHD!

I notice how the layers seperate with the use D:, plastered the sides full of white wood glue now to keep it together.
Pray for me I did not accidentally put glue on my phone
So many reactions I get with my case . I currently also use this wallpaper, but I haven't found a really good one fitting the style.

Looks awesome !!

now thats an awesome cover!!! well done sir! You just changed the history of caver/bumper.

Great bumper! Must do something for the screen!
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

Svardskampe said:
I notice how the layers seperate with the use D:, plastered the sides full of white wood glue now to keep it together.
Pray for me I did not accidentally put glue on my phone
So many reactions I get with my case . I currently also use this wallpaper, but I haven't found a really good one fitting the style.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Similar to yours but live
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=uistore.fieldsystem.papertownfree

Unfortunately, live wallpapers kill the battery very quickly.
Yesterday I was laughed at it for the first time by a girl with a white Iphone.
Btw, changed the design a bit. By removing the little connections of the openings on the buttons on the faceplate, I have a folding line , so now I can take my phone out.

Better copyright that design before Otterbox steals it
Sent from my neXus⁴ using Tapatalk 2

1slow4G said:
Better copyright that design before Otterbox steals it
Sent from my neXus⁴ using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:

Good design in crisis times... Congrats sir

Salute sir :thumbup:
Sent from my Nexus 4

After a month of use I figured I should update how it went on in use. Got my chinese normal business leather case now, so little use for this any more.
(Really, thumbnails don't work on XDA? :/)
But ye. In terms of design, I can take my phone in and out by removing the two connections and create a folding line. In terms of sturdyness: The cardboard disintegrates into ruffles after a while, and ye, made me to just glue the entire thing. It's a semi-TPU case now. (But it made it a lot more solid). The top bit of the face plate came off. Didn't really bother putting it back on, the phone was enclosed enough and just glued over the rest.