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Have a laugh, continue with your day
Decided to make something for in-between as my cover needs to come from China, going to take a few weeks.
Remember if you see someone talking to a cardboard box, it doesn't have to be someone mental imitating talking on the phone!
Love it!
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4
buru898 said:
Love it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
I was just jokingly advocating its environmentalist status to a girl, who was rather pinned and asked "How is it any green?"*
I replied to her I was still looking for the right crayon
* ("if you make something for in the meantime while you're awaiting a shipment from China" is probably what she meant)
Hahah good one!
Kind of reminds me of the hands-free headset that has no wires or batteries..
The case makes it look like a Nexus S!
As someone asked on reddit for a tutorial, ill copy it here. Not much you cant figure out yourself.
My case consists of 7 layers of cardboard. Depending on the thickness it may be more or less with others.
1. Take the nexus 4 box. Cut out a few rectangles as big as the box is. (7 was enough for me).
2. In the inside of the nexus 4 box, take the 'tray' out where your nexus4 used to lay in. Fold it open and trace the shape onto a few cardboard pieces. This is going to be your 'bumper' section. You need as much layers as your phone is thick (9.1mm). The shape doesn't need to be perfect, rather cut away too less than too much.
3. Glue them together. It doesn't matter if the hole doesn't match op perfectly.
4. Take a dremel, a drill or any other rotary tool and a sandpaper head. Now sand the hole of the bunper together into the perfect shape. You can use sandpaper and do it by hand if you don't have any tools available.
5. Trace out another piece of cardboard, but this time cut the hole smaller. I just kept the sides by default and took a thumb of thickness extra on the top and bottom. This is your face plate. Pierce two holes on the top where your camera is and proximity sensor.
6. Put the bumper around your phone and mark the sections you want to cut out. Vokume rocker, on-off button, micro usb and the 3.5mm jack.
7. Cut your bumper to pieces and glue it onto your faceplate. Dremel or sand where necessary.
8. Now for the back part: I took two pieces of cardboard. And traced my public transport card on the top of one. Carefully cut out only the top layer if the cardboard and remove the 'waves' or 'ripples' inside.
9. Make an opening in the center of the hole around a fingernail long. This is how you slide the card out.
10. Glue the intact back piece and the card holder piece together so you card will be sandwiched in between.
11. Now you can simply glue them together with your phone inside, or if you want to get it out and leave the box intact, you can make an interlocking mechanism. You can also pierce the corners with a large pick (twist! Don't push, as that ruins your box) or small drill and use some fishing line or hennep strand..gift ribbon even works, to close it up.
finish everything up by sanding or dremelling the sides so they are all correctly aligned and every piece is the same size. You can round your corners too if you wish.
someone do a review on this, looks interesting
dorksturhh said:
someone do a review on this, looks interesting
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually have quite a lot of faith it would work in a droptest from 1 meter high in a cornerdrop (or even flatfaced). If someone wants to sponsor me :3
Send this to MKBHD!
I notice how the layers seperate with the use D:, plastered the sides full of white wood glue now to keep it together.
Pray for me I did not accidentally put glue on my phone
So many reactions I get with my case . I currently also use this wallpaper, but I haven't found a really good one fitting the style.
Looks awesome !!
now thats an awesome cover!!! well done sir! You just changed the history of caver/bumper.
Great bumper! Must do something for the screen!
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4
Svardskampe said:
I notice how the layers seperate with the use D:, plastered the sides full of white wood glue now to keep it together.
Pray for me I did not accidentally put glue on my phone
So many reactions I get with my case . I currently also use this wallpaper, but I haven't found a really good one fitting the style.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Similar to yours but live
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=uistore.fieldsystem.papertownfree
Unfortunately, live wallpapers kill the battery very quickly.
Yesterday I was laughed at it for the first time by a girl with a white Iphone.
Btw, changed the design a bit. By removing the little connections of the openings on the buttons on the faceplate, I have a folding line , so now I can take my phone out.
Better copyright that design before Otterbox steals it
Sent from my neXus⁴ using Tapatalk 2
1slow4G said:
Better copyright that design before Otterbox steals it
Sent from my neXus⁴ using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
Good design in crisis times... Congrats sir
Salute sir :thumbup:
Sent from my Nexus 4
After a month of use I figured I should update how it went on in use. Got my chinese normal business leather case now, so little use for this any more.
(Really, thumbnails don't work on XDA? :/)
But ye. In terms of design, I can take my phone in and out by removing the two connections and create a folding line. In terms of sturdyness: The cardboard disintegrates into ruffles after a while, and ye, made me to just glue the entire thing. It's a semi-TPU case now. (But it made it a lot more solid). The top bit of the face plate came off. Didn't really bother putting it back on, the phone was enclosed enough and just glued over the rest.
Related
Has anyone successfully removed the carrier logo form their Treo 750's casing? If so, what products/methods did you use? I was thinking maybe nail polish remover for the faceplate, would this be too strong? Not even sure where to begin though on the battery cover -- I'm afraid to mess up the rubber-like finish on it.
I bought my 750 on eBay non-working and fixed it up (water damage be damned!) but the OEM Cingular casing is pretty beat up. I ordered what was supposed to be a new unbranded housing from an eBay seller in Hong Kong (yeah, I shoulda known better). Surprise, it gets here today and not only is it obviously used (scratches all over the back), it has big freakin' AT&T logos on it! It's not worth the shipping cost to send it back, so if anyone has any tips on how to debrand it, I'd certainly appreciate it.
try to rub the logo off with a sugar cube, sounds weird but try it.
you gonna create damage if you try to debrand cause there is a thick clear coat overlay on the logo, its gonna look odd.
Well I've been rocking the AT&T housing for a while now and I think I'm just going to leave it as-is. The front logo is pretty discrete, it is much less obtrusive than the Cingular one with the little orange man. I'm just going to keep an eye on eBay and see if a genuine unbranded one pops up.
I'll give the sugar cube a shot on the old Cingular housing though and it it works ok on that maybe I'll take a crack at this new faceplate.
Thanks!
BAMF said:
Has anyone successfully removed the carrier logo form their Treo 750's casing? If so, what products/methods did you use? I was thinking maybe nail polish remover for the faceplate, would this be too strong? Not even sure where to begin though on the battery cover -- I'm afraid to mess up the rubber-like finish on it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nail polish remover will remove it but it can also melt the plastic. As well as bubble the rubbery coating on the rear.
I too bought a used 750 on eBay. Got it yesterday. It's got some light scratches on the case but the screen is scratch-free. I'm going to take the front bezel off and prep/paint it.
Use buildable primer (Krylon works adequately) and your choice of finish color then a couple coats of clear. Make sure you don't fill in the gaps where the ear piece is otherwise you won't hear much.
Your choice on painting the hot keys.
Good idea, I hadn't given any thought to painting the faceplate. If you get a chance, I'd like to see pics of yours once you're finished.
Good luck!
i just bougt a couple of Cingular dummies and dissablem use as parts. The dummy uses real parts. paid like $10 shipped.
BAMF said:
If you get a chance, I'd like to see pics of yours once you're finished.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hopefully I'll get some time this weekend to do it. I'd be more than happy to post some before and after shots.
I found some time this afternoon to start painting. There are a few videos on YouTube regarding disassembly. I did a search for "Treo Take Apart" and found what I needed.
I masked off the "rubbery" coating with blue painters tape, there's probably better stuff to use but that's what I had available. Two light coats of primer, two top coats (I chose white) and then a decent coat of clear.
I'm waiting for it to dry at the moment. I wish I took some in-progress shots but I didn't have the camera handy.
Photos to come soon.
Pimp my Treo
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I still have to take my razor blade and finish cleaning up the groove around the bezel.
I decided to make the sides match. The black IR plate came out (unsnapped) from the housing rather easily. Also removed the side buttons. Your choice on painting them, they are hardened plastic so paint should stick to them. I opted to leave them alone to add a little contrast.
I used Krylon white primer, white gloss top coat and a flexible urethane acrylic clear. All rattle can.
I've used Krylon Fusion (for bonding to plastic) spray paint but I didn't have any handy. If you use Fusion, you don't need to use primer. But in this case I had to since Fusion wasn't available. Might save you some thickness from multiple coats of primer/top coat but in my case it turned out okay.
Remember to keep the coats light - not just for runs but eventually the spray dots all come together and you'll have a nice uniform finish. Be careful not to fill in the small gap around the ear piece. I found that while not spraying it on thick this helped me to prevent such a catastrophe. I made a test phone call and I was able to hear just fine.
Note: I did take a flat jewelers screw driver and raked it across the Cingular logo to bring it down a bit closer to the plastic bezel. After the painting was finished I can't even tell there even was a logo. Prior scratches on the bezel were filled in by the paint and and aren't even noticable.
Also - your choice on painting the memory door cover. I took it off to paint the phone. I think prying it on and off might make the paint chip a little, but I'm letting it cure 24 hours before I put it back on so it doesn't happen on the phone side.
Some bloggers talk about losing cell phone reception. I usually have about one bar in my shop, during my test call after painting I had two. While I don't believe painting helped my reception, I was happy that it didn't attenuate my signal either. So for the record, Krylon White didn't hinder my reception.
Make sure you mask off ANYTHING you don't want to get paint on. From a little experience using a rattle can on various projects, overspray gets reflected from the surface you're spraying on, trickles down in the air, gets everywhere. Mask underneath, the sides, anywhere you don't want your new color to get into.
Regards,
-IanCT
(my first online writeup)
Nice! Thanks for posting up the pics + info! The white faceplate looks good next to the white 0-9 keys, and I like the contrast of the side panels.
Did you do any sanding/scuffing before you put down the primer?
No, I usually don't unless there's a gloss product used for a finish coat.
I was worried I might take down some ridges on the side grip or make a flat spot on the bezel (even though I'm pretty careful)
I agree, I like the white contrasting the blue/black body better than I thought I would.
Thanks for your comments!
Cumbersome, isn't it, that usb port located on top?
But remember that inlay in which the Galaxy was packaged inside the box?
I turned mine into a landscape desktop stand, so i can use the Galaxy as an alarm clock without ugly triangling cables to the top of the phone (like i have seen on some cradles)
The plastic stand is made of Lexan, which is available in DIY shops. It can me made to size by sawing with a fine tooted saw. I used a belt-sander to even the sides before bending. Bending is done by putting the piece of Lexan in a vice and applying heat with a hot air gun or a flame burner (gentle or the Lexan will start bubbling).
First i tried to make a fixed micro usb connector where now the cable sits in the Galaxy, but because micro usb is so micro, it would take more fiddling to put the Galaxy in the stand than putting in the cable first.
Impressed, looks very nice & good use of packaging.
Just a shame my Orange (Uk) branded SGS came in something akin to a cardboard egg crate
Nice ideea. I think I'm going to do this.
Something like this was posted earlier as well, but yours look much better, even better than some of the docks available on eBay and the Samsung dock. from where did you find that transparent plastic thingy ?
PhoenixFx said:
Something like this was posted earlier as well, but yours look much better, even better than some of the docks available on eBay and the Samsung dock. from where did you find that transparent plastic thingy ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The plastic is called Lexan, it's available in DIY shops. It can be made to size by hacksawing with a fine-tooted saw, and bent by applying heat with a hot-air gun or a flame. I sanded the edges before bending by holding the sides to a belt-sander.
Nice
What do you have running on the screen?
Very nice and clean job
I was thinking about using the foam casing too, but it didn't have enough room to accommodate my phone case.
TieNN89 said:
Nice
What do you have running on the screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, its called Alarm Clock Plus V2, you can find it in the market. It has a nice screensaver also.
time to visit the Dollar store and pick up one of those acrylic things for restaurant menues
i'll make one for standing upright
Here's one i made, i wanted to still be able to get to the power and volume buttons so mine is more of an open design.
Its made using a wire coat hanger and fish tank air tubing lol, I put black paint inside the tube as it helps hide the wire and being inside also means it won't rub off onto the phone. An advantage of using fish tank pipe is that it grips quite well to surfaces so that when i push the screen (i.e. alarm snooze) it stays put
The OP's does look more fancy though
stickfinger said:
Here's one i made, i wanted to still be able to get to the power and volume buttons so mine is more of an open design.
Its made using a wire coat hanger and fish tank air tubing lol, I put black paint inside the tube as it helps hide the wire and being inside also means it won't rub off onto the phone. An advantage of using fish tank pipe is that it grips quite well to surfaces so that when i push the screen (i.e. alarm snooze) it stays put
The OP's does look more fancy though
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
very neat looking too, could you add a picture of your phone when it is using this?
Hallo!
It looks great!
Can you give me some dimensions?
I don't have the inlay in which the Galaxy was packaged so I have to recreate it.
I'm interested in the corner radius and the position of the micro usb.
Thank you in advance!
ra_van said:
Hallo!
It looks great!
Can you give me some dimensions?
I don't have the inlay in which the Galaxy was packaged so I have to recreate it.
I'm interested in the corner radius and the position of the micro usb.
Thank you in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I scanned the inlay so you can take measures. To be sure: the measurements are:
- inner length 112,5 mm
- inner width 64 mm
- inner depth approx 11 mm
- outer lenght 144 mm
- outer width 85 mm
I suggest to use your Galaxy as a reference also.
pwhooftman said:
I suggest to use your Galaxy as a reference also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for this!
I'll post pictures with the stand when it will be ready.
Nice job!!!
Hi!
This in my DIY stand :
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So we don't have a lanyard hole on the Desire Z... Obviously HTC want us to drop it and buy a new one every few months ;-)
Has anyone got any ideas as to how we can do this? (or have done this???)
I reckon it needs to be 'hung' from the top right, or bottom right corner as you look at it, then it naturally hangs with the keyboard closed.
Cheers
Rich.
cheeseandjamsandwich said:
So we don't have a lanyard hole on the Desire Z... Obviously HTC want us to drop it and buy a new one every few months ;-)
Has anyone got any ideas as to how we can do this? (or have done this???)
I reckon it needs to be 'hung' from the top right, or bottom right corner as you look at it, then it naturally hangs with the keyboard closed.
Cheers
Rich.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I simply got a hard case that had a hole in it. Both protection and a lanyard spot. Of course, that's if you want a hard case.
I never could figure out why HTC removes the lanyard hole for some phones (G1, G2), and has them for other phones (Touch Pro 2, MyTouch Slide)...
It is a mystery why it isn't included in every phone...
Search results gave me this......
rubin110 said:
And this is how you eventually destroy the case...
http:
//0.starset.net/screenies/loop-20101018-231253.png
Obfuscated link because the admins here like to fight crime before it happens.
And yes charms are stupid, a short 6" lanyard is totally awesome for getting your device out when you're doing other things, like say riding a bike.
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http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=810872&highlight=lanyard
Edit: I would think this idea would work much better if you had a extra back caseing (bodyglove or such case) to add support for the battery door to stay closed.
hmm, you could always use some kind of strong tape to stick the back door down
OK, found this AWESOME tear down of the Desire Z/G2
http:
//tjworld.net/blog/htc-desire-z-tear-down
So looking at the top and bottom right corners, perhaps we could drill an in and out hole to make a bomb proof lanyard anchor.
cheeseandjamsandwich said:
OK, found this AWESOME tear down of the Desire Z/G2
http:
//tjworld.net/blog/htc-desire-z-tear-down
So looking at the top and bottom right corners, perhaps we could drill an in and out hole to make a bomb proof lanyard anchor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wow brill, have you got a desire z, are you going to do this? now i know its a possibility i think i just might get one!
I have always been using lanyards/wrist straps on my smartphones and so will I on my Z.
On my previous device (HD2) I had ordered a case at Piel Frama and they had kindly accepted to add holes on my flip case for free.
Unfortunately for the Desire Z they have not released any flip case due to the physical keyboard.
The only solution I found is buying on Fortte site a flip case allowing using physical keyboard while it's in the case. You can choose your clip and among them there is the wrist strap. I have not received the case yet so cannot give you feedback for the moment.
I haven't totally investigated drilling the top/bottom right hand corner yet... But i reckon that's the go....
I want a solution without any add-on case.
It's pants that HTC don't add the holes... there's no reason other than conspiracy theories, why they shouldn't/couldn't.
Definitely a CIA conspiration
Serisously maybe HTC thinks that smartphones have become too heavy to be carried on with a lanyard? Maybe they are afraid of people who would complaint because of a lanyard (and consequently phone) breakage?
Just my feeling because I don't see any other reason why they would have decided to remove these holes
Going snowboarding tomorrow.
I guess ill use the rear door for a lanyard. Although the a few times my kid has dropped my phone and it comes hurtling off.
It should be fine. I also use something called a lighter leash that I have attached to the inside of my jacket pocket. Its similar to those things you see for id cards in hospitals. You pull on it and the string comes out.
You can use the keyboard hinge for that. It's worked great for me on the G1 and G2.
Only catch is that you can't just loop the lanyard around the hinge, there'd be too much extra string around the hinge. You have to pull the lanyard apart, wrap the string around the hinge, then put it back together. Totally worth it though.
skyjumper said:
You can use the keyboard hinge for that. It's worked great for me on the G1 and G2.
... You have to pull the lanyard apart, wrap the string around the hinge, then put it back together. Totally worth it though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm, that is a tryer, but i think there are already problems with the hinge and id really like a strap attached to the case, im dithering about where to get the torx 5 screwdriver from.
I don't think the hinge will break that easily lol
2 days boarding. no problem with the batter cover lanyard.
I just spent 2 days riding with the battery cover based lanyard.
It worked great and the conditions were pretty rugged.
I can recommend this method and I will use it again.
Any tips on which lanyard to get that can be pulled apart? As my lanyard is glued together in a plastic case where the string reaches the strap.
I've got a temporary solution of dental floss around the case hinge (!) and then that is attached to the lanyard. Dental floss is surprisingly strong. It just looks a bit DIY with some white duct tape wrapped around it...
After seeing a few posts (by ocdetails and desirez_pete) I wanted to try the mod myself. Thanks to their advice, I was able to do it pretty easily in one sitting. During the process I decided to take pictures just for the sake of having some kind of record, and since I didn't see any picture-filled guide on how to do this in our forum I thought I'd provide one to help those who might have been intimidated at the thought of this DIY. It's really quite easy!
I ordered a 1' x 6" sheet of "Black M500 3D Carbon Fiber Vinyl Stripe Wrap Sheet 6in" from an eBay seller named metrorestyling. It's basically a knock-off of 3M's DI-NOC carbon fiber vinyl. This sheet is enough material to do this mod for 6 battery doors.
I started by putting one edge of the battery door along one edge of a piece of paper, then outlining the rest. Next I taped the paper on the vinyl such that the straight edge of the paper was aligned with the carbon fiber weave.
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A razor will cut the vinyl very easily. I then took off the back side of the carbon fiber vinyl, laying it sticky side up. I aligned one edge of the battery door with one edge of the vinyl and applied it starting from that side (like applying a screen protector).
It was already on really smoothly but I used heat from a hair dryer set to medium to smoothen as much as possible. One quote I read online was, "If the heat is to [sic] hot for your hands, then it’s hot enough for the vinyl."
Now this is where I should have done something better. With the excess vinyl not stuck onto the back of the batter door I immediately started cutting. I first cut it while trying to stay parallel to the battery door plane, so I can cut off excess later if necessary. While cutting I noticed it was better to cut with inward strokes, e.g., in the picture below I would move the knife down and left to avoid pulling the vinyl away from the battery door edge.
What I should have done is wrap the excess around while applying heat, followed by immediate cooling to "set" the vinyl in place around the edges. This unset vinyl along the edges gave me a little trouble later
This is what it looked like after a very, very rough cut.
This is where I realized my mistake above. I had to constantly reheat the edges to get good adhesion to the battery door edge, followed by immediate cutting. And since the adhesive film was unset, it kept accumulating on my knife, making it dull every so often
Side view:
To cut more vinyl off along the edges, I cut at an angle.
Preliminary fit was too tight, and the battery door wasn't fully pressed down. Also, my cutting was VERY sloppy on the speakerphone hole
So, I cut more.
It fit much better along all edges
And that's all there is to it! I hope this helps those who want to do this mod.
Looks good! I suggest you re-apply it a few more times and you should be able to get it perfect.
And another thing I forgot to tell you was try to stretch the vinyl over the edges while heating it to get the best adhesion but don't stretch it so that it distorts the carbon pattern. My application is still fully stuck on after 2 months
very nice!
looks good man. I'm think about doing something like it!
Thanks for this. I just bought the same sheet you bought. Hopefully it will arrive this week.
looks good, I am going to give this a try!
I did this the other day using your guide. I screwed up a little bit on the flat side by cutting off too much, so some of the door is showing, but overall I'm happy with it.
BlawkHawk said:
I did this the other day using your guide. I screwed up a little bit on the flat side by cutting off too much, so some of the door is showing, but overall I'm happy with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I've been told, the stuff comes right off when heated and residue can be removed with typical residue removal solution. If you bought the same sheet as me, you know how much more there is to use in case you want to retry it
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
You definitely want to try a few more applications to get it right
c00ller said:
From what I've been told, the stuff comes right off when heated and residue can be removed with typical residue removal solution. If you bought the same sheet as me, you know how much more there is to use in case you want to retry it
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Eh I had to waste one piece of it because I made it a little bit too small, so I think I'll just deal with it for now.
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
Thanks for the tut. I used it and it came out good. Though it looks a bit sloppy as i cut a bit too inwards and the speaker hole came out very sloppy. Im happy with it now i know what i did wrong. Thanks!
Sent from a message in a bottle
Just ordered my sheet of carbon fiber!
It looks nice man!
Nice work man!
Sent from my G2 using XDA
real ones are cheap
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3M-D...mdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQitemZ370365342712
frankth3frizz said:
real ones are cheap
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3M-D...mdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQitemZ370365342712
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That looks no different to what I bought (Unbranded)
I've done the same to mine and pretty much did it the same way as your guide, it looks great
Wow! Look Nice! Wanna try to my phone also To hide scratches all on the batery back.
spooke said:
That looks no different to what I bought (Unbranded)
I've done the same to mine and pretty much did it the same way as your guide, it looks great
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But you never know how long the adhesive will last
Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk
Really nice work you have there. Does that carbon fiber give it a better feel? Or not make it so slick in your palm?
Actually after using the phone with the vinyl for 3 months I found it makes grip worse. I'm thinking of adding a layer of plastidip over it for better grip.
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
I like it very much. First cut btw
Hello folks,
I have some 3M Di-Noc material kicking around and I was considering using some to reinforce the bezel on my device.
I was wondering if anyone out there has a template of the bezel with locations of all the cutouts for plugs, speakers, mics, ir blaster, etc so I can make a proper cutout of the Di-Noc?
(and for all you lovely people, you can grab FREE samples of Di-Noc from 3M here solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U...nishes/Surface-Finishes?N=2891&rt=c3&MDR=true)
Edit: Fixed link
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vanisleguy1976 said:
I have some 3M Di-Noc material kicking around and I was considering using some to reinforce the bezel on my device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can u elaborate what u mean by this?
Wrap the Di-Noc around the bezel
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vanisleguy1976 said:
Wrap the Di-Noc around the bezel
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems like I'm not the only one who gets ideas like this! Since back in my iPhone 4 days I was obsessed with the idea of having a black frame which I think just looks super sexy and I succeeded! They sold those black metal frames and even if it meant to tear apart the whole phone, I went through with it and the end result didn't disappoint.
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Anyway now with the Note 3 there are no black frames that anyone sells mainly because the Super AMOLED and the frame are one unit and can't be separated. And I honestly hated how it looked "stock" with the silver frame especially after seeing Samsung heading the right direction in my mind on the Note 4 with the painted black frame. So I went to my local hardware store i bought this adhesive film from brand called d-c-fix (nothing special) in matt black. Installing it fairly easy!
Advice I can give u is:
Don't just install a stripe around the phone u will fail!
Install a large piece completely on the front and make sure ur 3M Di-Noc material exceeds the front on every side by minimum 10cm or so basically enough to hold on to it.
Take a blow drier and start anywhere u want to heat the tape/adhesive/material (don't know how to call it right in English sorry) this will make it soft and stretchable and the installation process easier/possible. From there on just apply it on the actual frame. Before doing this take ur back cover off because it will be in the way otherwise. Just press the material on so it stays in place. Excess material on the back u just cut off with a x acto knife. Same on the front! u just press the material firmly on and cut it off and u can peel it like a screen protector.
cutting out the usb port, speaker, headphone jack are super easy with a x acto knife. the headphone jack has a ring around it is still visible.
for mics u google pictures and just feel with ur finger where it is! depending on the thickness of the material everything shines through! not like really shining trough but I hope u get what I mean. With a needle u can make holes which again is easy.
The real challenge for me was cutting the front corners between the frame "border" and display. Left, Right, Top and Bottom is again super easy but the corners are a bit hard depending on how sharp ur x acto knife is and how thick the material is. It's hard to cut it clean without fringes.
And the adhesive should be really strong otherwise because the friction that's caused by putting in and out of ur pocket it will come off! But mine basic ass material holds just fine. And I mean u got the good 3M stuff which they install on cars!
I hope I covered everything if u have questions u can ask me and i will try to help out as much as I can.
Here are some Pics of my Note 3 I'm currently rocking my Orange back cover and the contrast just looks sick! If put on my black back cover my Noe 3 looks like a stealth Note 3. The front doesn't look dirty in the gaps like it does on the picture its probably because it's already dark and I shot these with flash on and I used my tablet because I don't have no other camera. If anyone is interested I would take better pictures in daylight.
Anyway hope this helps u out.... peace out......
That looks fantastic! Thank you very much for your advice. It sounds perfect.
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vanisleguy1976 said:
That looks fantastic! Thank you very much for your advice. It sounds perfect.
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if you tried it out but can anyone make a video on how to do this? My bezel is scratched up and dented and it would definitely love a fix up. Are there any other alternatives to fixing the bezel?